关键词: 棉织物, 轧光, 光泽整理, 免烫树脂, 增塑, 交联反应

Abstract: Cotton fabrics hold a significant position in the textile field due to their excellent skin-friendliness, moisture absorption and breathability. Calendering, a primary surface finishing process for cotton fabrics, achieves mirror-like gloss through mechanical compression and thermoplastic deformation of fiber surfaces. However, traditional calendering has obvious limitations. Firstly, the luster retention of fabrics after traditional calendering is poor, with the luster retention rate usually below 60% after water washing. Secondly, the traditional calendering process is also problematic. The limited diversity of auxiliary agents, convoluted chemical preparation procedures and excessive energy consumption make the process operationally complex. Consequently, production efficiency is not optimal and product aesthetics tend to be homogeneous. Thirdly, although existing auxiliaries such as 2D resin can maintain the surface morphology of the fabric through covalent cross-linking, excessive use can lead to fiber degradation and affect fabric strength. Therefore, it is urgent to develop a calendering technology that combines high luster retention, precise process conditions and diverse product styles in the industry. This study used 60s×60s bleached cotton jacquard fabrics as the material and ECO non-iron resin as the main crosslinking agent to systematically explore the synergistic mechanism of shaping and crosslinking processes. Firstly, the process parameters were optimized through single-factor experiments, controlling the fabric moisture regain, calendering temperature and calendering times, combined with different types of catalysts to catalyze the crosslinking reaction, and the crosslinking reaction process was completed by conventional heat setting. Secondly, multiple synergistic auxiliaries (small molecule alcohols, starch derivatives, cellulose ethers, polyurethanes, etc.) were introduced to analyze their effects on the shaping property, film-forming property and light retention rate. The experimental results showed that magnesium chloride had both plasticizing and catalytic functions. Under the conditions of 12% moisture regain and calendering at 140 ℃ for 5 times, the fabric gloss value reached 36.5. After baking at 160 ℃ for 120 s, the light retention rate increased to 78% and the tear strength retention rate reached 78.6%. Small molecule alcohols (glycerol and methanol) reduced the gloss due to the destruction of the plasticizing effect of water molecules. However, large molecule auxiliaries (pre-gelatinized starch, high-viscosity CMC and polyurethane 163D) significantly improved the light retention rate by forming films to fill the fiber gaps. For example, the light retention rate of the fabric after pre-gelatinized starch finishing reached 78%, and the SEM showed that the film layer was continuous and had excellent anti-swelling properties. Silicone oil and organic wax reduced the gloss but improved the hand feel, while polyurethane 163D enhanced the gloss and gave the fabric a stiff style, indicating that the selection of synergistic agents should be flexibly adjusted according to product requirements. This study proposed the "shaping-crosslinking synergy" strategy, providing a new approach for calendering finishing of cotton fabrics. By optimizing the calendering process parameters and screening efficient synergistic auxiliaries, the durable luster and mechanical properties of cotton fabrics were simultaneously enhanced, offering theoretical support for the development of multi-style and high-quality calendered products.

Key words: cotton fabric, calendaring, gloss finishing, non-iron resins, plasticizing, crosslinking reaction