家庭滚筒洗涤对牛仔织物风格的影响

doi:10.19398/j.att.202011013

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

为探究PhahrOmeter织物评价系统在不同洗涤次数下牛仔面料的手感风格特征,选取100%棉、100%莱赛尔纤维、莫代尔/棉/麻3种牛仔面料试样,通过模拟穿用过程中的家庭滚筒洗涤方式,进行0次、10次、20次、30次不同次数水洗并分别进行手感风格值测试,运用灰色关联法分析计算手感因子与织物手感值之间的关系。结果表明:织物硬挺度是影响织物手感风格表现趋势的主要因素,织物的柔软度和硬挺度呈反比关系,织物柔软度随着水洗次数增加其对应的测试数值减小,光滑度则呈相反趋势,即水洗次数越多,测试数值越大,织物越柔软;测试中,相近平方米质量和厚度的纯棉牛仔和莫代尔/棉/麻混纺风格最接近,莫代尔纤维改善了牛仔面料的手感值和硬挺度。

关键词: 牛仔, 织物风格, 硬挺度, 柔软度, 灰色关联法

Abstract:

With a view to explore the hand feel and style characteristics of denim fabrics under different washing times of PhahrOmeter fabric evaluation system, three blended denim fabric samples, 100% cotton, 100% Lyocell fiber, modal/cotton/linen were selected, and by simulating the household drum washing method during wearing, the samples were washed for 0 times, 10 times, 20 times and 30 times and the hand feel styles were tested. Using the gray correlation method, the relationship between hand feel factor and the hand feel values of fabrics was calculated and analyzed. The results show that the stiffness of fabric is the main factor affecting the performance trend of the hand style styles of the fabric. The softness and stiffness of fabric are inversely proportional. The test values of the softness of fabric decrease with the increase of washing times, while the smoothness of fabric shows an opposite trend. That is, the more the fabric is washed, the greater the test value, the softer the fabric. During the test, pure cotton denim with similar square meter mass and thickness is the closest to blended modal/cotton/linen fabrics in terms of style, and modal fiber can improve the hand feel and stiffness of denim fabrics.

Key words: denim, fabric style, stiffness, softness, gray correlation method

中图分类号:

TB383

程煜, 梁惠娥. 家庭滚筒洗涤对牛仔织物风格的影响[J]. 现代纺织技术, 2022, 30(1): 151-156.

CHENG Yu, LIANG Huier. Influence of household drum washing on the style of denim fabric[J]. Advanced Textile Technology, 2022, 30(1): 151-156.

图/表 6

参考文献 11

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织物编号	织物原料	厚度/mm	密度/(根·(10cm)^-1)		纤度/tex
织物编号	织物原料	厚度/mm	经向	纬向	经向	纬向
1#	100%纯棉	0.7041	290	175	72	48
2#	100%莱赛尔纤维	0.425	300	200	74	47
3#	46%莫代尔/36%棉18%麻	0.613	270	205	78	46

织物编号	织物原料	厚度/mm	密度/(根·(10cm)^-1)		纤度/tex
织物编号	织物原料	厚度/mm	经向	纬向	经向	纬向
1#	100%纯棉	0.7041	290	175	72	48
2#	100%莱赛尔纤维	0.425	300	200	74	47
3#	46%莫代尔/36%棉18%麻	0.613	270	205	78	46

织物编号	硬挺度	柔软度	光滑度	折皱回复率%	相对手感值
1#₀	23.49	75.26	60.29	31.84	16.67
1#₁₀	25.78	69.40	61.83	22.18	20.43
1#₂₀	25.82	68.48	61.74	18.11	21.39
1#₃₀	25.93	69.80	61.56	18.70	20.26
2#₀	53.69	75.27	68.69	64.09	0
2#₁₀	54.08	72.68	67.20	46.06	30.27
2#₂₀	54.15	72.16	68.74	44.28	27.61
2#₃₀	50.48	72.17	68.32	43.90	27.42
3#₀	20.24	77.84	57.84	43.84	17.28
3#₁₀	21.97	74.30	59.07	33.55	16.49
3#₂₀	22.09	75.32	59.70	28.10	16.96
3#₃₀	21.59	74.44	59.02	29.55	16.29

织物编号	硬挺度	柔软度	光滑度	折皱回复率%	相对手感值
1#₀	23.49	75.26	60.29	31.84	16.67
1#₁₀	25.78	69.40	61.83	22.18	20.43
1#₂₀	25.82	68.48	61.74	18.11	21.39
1#₃₀	25.93	69.80	61.56	18.70	20.26
2#₀	53.69	75.27	68.69	64.09	0
2#₁₀	54.08	72.68	67.20	46.06	30.27
2#₂₀	54.15	72.16	68.74	44.28	27.61
2#₃₀	50.48	72.17	68.32	43.90	27.42
3#₀	20.24	77.84	57.84	43.84	17.28
3#₁₀	21.97	74.30	59.07	33.55	16.49
3#₂₀	22.09	75.32	59.70	28.10	16.96
3#₃₀	21.59	74.44	59.02	29.55	16.29

绝对差值	序号
绝对差值	1₀	1₁₀	1₂₀	1₃₀	2₀	2₁₀	2₂₀	2₃₀	3₀	3₁₀	3₂₀	3₃₀
Δ₁=\|x₀(k)-x₁(k)\|	6.82	5.35	4.43	5.67	37.02	33.65	32.79	30.32	3.57	1.54	0.70	1.33
Δ₂=\|x₀(k)-x₂(k)\|	43.01	41.40	34.13	34.14	51.41	36.93	41.13	40.90	40.56	28.20	32.09	31.60
Δ₃=\|x₀(k)-x₃(k)\|	46.37	48.97	51.52	53.41	46.38	56.19	55.20	55.88	49.03	57.81	58.36	58.15