光变颜料特性及其多色调光致变色印花工艺研究

doi:10.19398/j.att.202011019

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

针对当前光变颜料价格昂贵、色谱欠缺,印花织物色牢度较差、手感僵硬等问题,系统研究了光变颜料的基本特性以及分散染料/光变颜料同浆印花工艺,拓宽了光变颜料色谱,研制开发了可调控的多色调变色印花织物。结果表明:Mc-系列光变颜料变色效果明显,且灵敏度和耐疲劳度优良;研制的多色调光致变色印花工艺为:光变颜料质量分数为6%、分散染料适量、黏合剂TF-321G与TF-3201比例为2:1且质量分数为6%、增稠剂TF-321F质量分数为1.2%,焙烘温度170℃、焙烘时间4 min;随着分散染料色光和用量的不同,印花织物的色谱得到了拓展。

关键词: 光变颜料, 同浆印花, 调控, 多色调, 变色织物

Abstract:

In view of the high price of optically variable pigments, lack of chromatogram, poor color fastness of printed fabrics, and stiff hand feel, etc., the basic characteristics of the optically variable pigments and the printing process of disperse dyes/optically variable pigments in the same slurry are studied systematically to broaden the chromatography of optically variable pigments, and a controllable multi-tone photochromic printed fabric is developed. The results show that the Mc-series optically variable pigments have an obvious discoloration effect, excellent sensitivity and fatigue resistance. The multi-tone photochromic printing process developed is: a mass fraction of the optically variable pigments of 6%, a proper quantity of disperse dyes, a ratio of the adhesives TF-321G to TF-3201 of 2:1, a mass fraction is 6%, a mass fraction of the thickener TF-321F of 1.2%, a baking temperature of 170℃, and a baking time of 4 min. With different color tones and dosages of the disperse dye, the chromatogram of printed fabrics has been expanded.

Key words: optically variable pigments, same-size printing, control, multi-tone, photochromic fabric

中图分类号:

TS194.4

潘园歌, 王成龙, 金淑兰, 罗军, 陈维国, 郑今欢. 光变颜料特性及其多色调光致变色印花工艺研究[J]. 现代纺织技术, 2022, 30(1): 129-136.

PAN Yuange, WANG Chenglong, JIN Shulan, LUO Jun, CEN Weiguo, ZHENG Jinhuan. Research on the characteristics of optically variable pigments and their multi-tone photochromic printing process[J]. Advanced Textile Technology, 2022, 30(1): 129-136.

图/表 17

表1 色浆配方

Tab.1 Slurry formula

色浆组分	质量分数/%
光变颜料	6
分散染料	X
黏合剂TF-321G	4
黏合剂TF-3201	2
增稠剂TF-321F	1.2
水	Y
总量	100

图1 螺吡喃类光变颜料光致变色机理示意

Fig.1 Schematic diagram of the photochromic mechanism of spiropyran-based optically variable pigments

图2 光变颜料基础色光照前后效果对比

Fig.2 Comparison of the effect of light variable pigment base color before and after illumination

图3 光变颜料基础色光照前后的R值变化

Fig.3 The change of R value of light variable pigment base color before and after illumination

表2 Mc19#红色光照前后的L、C、H值变化、变色过程以及K/S值

Tab.2 Mc19# L, C, H value changes before and after red light, color change process and K/S value

表3 紫外光照射一定时间的呈色时间

Tab.3 Color rendering time under UV light for a certain period of times

照射时长/h	Mc19#红色	Mc16#黄色	Mc22#绿色	Mc29#蓝色	蓝变绿Mc-11
0	20.65	10.86	10.12	4.44	10.90
15	22.27	11.19	11.87	4.80	11.93
30	24.91	11.45	11.89	6.15	12.31
45	25.91	12.19	12.84	7.80	12.32
60	26.84	13.69	14.38	9.24	14.21
75	28.30	16.32	17.21	12.10	16.27

表4 紫外光照射一定时间的消色时间

Tab.4 Decolorization time under UV light for a certain period of times

照射时长/h	Mc19#红色	Mc16#黄色	Mc22#绿色	Mc29#蓝色	蓝变绿Mc-11
0	92.99	153.56	70.22	7.43	52.97
15	109.57	169.00	76.88	9.46	62.09
30	113.75	173.47	85.67	12.71	62.12
45	118.22	177.30	87.22	13.01	71.29
60	120.32	178.30	88.35	13.42	72.06
75	126.49	179.66	89.21	14.04	73.66

表5 黏合剂质量分数对织物色牢度和手感的影响

Tab.5 The influence of binder mass fraction on fabric color fastness and hand feeling

黏合剂质量分数/%	干摩/级	湿摩/级	手感分值
0	1~2	1	5.00
4	2	1~2	4.35
6	2~3	2	4.20
8	2~3	2	3.55
10	3	2~3	3.05
20	4~5	4	0

表6 焙烘温度对织物色牢度和手感的影响

Tab.6 Effect of baking temperature on color fastness and hand feel of fabric

焙烘温度/℃	干摩/级	湿摩/级	皂洗牢度/级		手感分值
焙烘温度/℃	干摩/级	湿摩/级	沾色	变色	手感分值
160	2~3	2	3	3~4	4.25
170	2~3	3	2~3	3~4	4.35
180	3	2~3	2~3	3~4	3.50
190	2~3	2~3	3	3~4	3.40

表7 焙烘时间对织物色牢度和手感的影响

Tab.7 The effect of baking time on the color fastness and feel of the fabric

焙烘时间/min	干摩/级	湿摩/级	皂洗牢度/级		手感分值
焙烘时间/min	干摩/级	湿摩/级	沾色	变色	手感分值
2	2	1~2	2~3	3	4.40
3	2~3	2	2~3	3~4	4.25
4	3	2~3	2~3	3~4	4.30
5	2~3	2~3	3	3~4	3.00

表8 分散染料色光对织物光照前后的L、C、H值变化、变色效果以及K/S值

图4 分散染料色光对织物光照前后K/S值的变化

Fig.4 Changes of K/S value of disperse dye shade on fabric before and after illumination

图5 E织物光照前后K/S值的变化

Fig.5 The change of K/S value of E fabric before and after lighting

表9 a组合对织物光照前后的L、C、H值变化、变色效果以及K/S值

Tab.9 a combination of L, C, H value change, color change effect and K/S value before and after the fabric is illuminated

表10 b组合对织物光照前后的L、C、H值变化、变色效果以及K/S值

Tab.10 b combination of L, C, H value change, color change effect and K/S value before and after the fabric is illuminated

图6 a组合对织物光照前后K/S值的变化

Fig.6 a combination of changes in the K/S value of the fabric before and after illumination

图7 b组合对织物光照前后K/S值的变化

Fig.7 b combination of changes in the K/S value of the fabric before and after illumination

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