关键词: 涤纶, 硬挺整理, 白痕, 光学行为, 刮划方向

Abstract: To address issues of white scratches on polyester fabrics after stiff finishing fabrics, two polyester fabrics with different deniers and weaving tightness were selected as the object of study to establish a white mark quantitative assessment method by using rubbing fastness tester and color measuring spectrometer. The two polyester fabrics and the surface damage after stiff finishing were studied by simulating scratches in different directions. The results indicate that the color light test results can be used for a quantitative characterization of the degree of white scratches. The white scratches could be seen obviously when the ΔL value (the difference in surface brightness)before and after scratching was greater than 3, which may be caused by optical behavior changes arising from the deformation, breakage and falling of the fiber and the film. The research has found that different damages to the warp and weft fibers and yarns in the direction of the scratching would cause different white scratches. In summary, the white scratches caused by scratching along the direction of cloth yarn density with large elasticity were severer relatively. In addition, the formation of white scratches is of selectivity to different kinds of fabrics. White scratches are more likely to be left on fabrics with smaller fineness and larger tightness after scratching.

Key words: polyester fabrics, stiff finishing, white scratches, optical behavior, direction of scratching