现代纺织技术 ›› 2022, Vol. 30 ›› Issue (4): 156-161.DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202111019

• 染化工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

菝葜根天然染料对改性棉织物的染色性能

于海娟1a,1b, 杨斌1a,1b, 傅红平2, 余志成1a,1b, 王磊1a,3   

  1. 1.浙江理工大学,a.纺织科学与工程学院;b.生态染整技术教育部工程研究中心,杭州 310018;
    2.宁波广源纺织品有限公司,浙江宁波 315000;
    3.苏州大学纺织行业天然染料重点实验室,江苏苏州 215123
  • 收稿日期:2021-11-08 出版日期:2022-07-10 网络出版日期:2022-08-25
  • 通讯作者:余志成,E-mail:yuzhicheng8@aliyun.com
  • 作者简介:于海娟(1995-),女,江苏淮安人,硕士研究生,主要从事新型染整技术方面的研究。
  • 基金资助:
    纺织行业天然染料重点实验室开放课题资助项目(SDHY2118)

Dyeing properties of modified cotton fabric with Smilax china L. root dye

YU Haijuan1a,1b, YANG Bin1a,1b, FU Hongping2, YU Zhicheng1a,1b, WANG Lei1a,3   

  1. 1a. College of Textile Science and Engineering; 1b. Engineering Research Center for Eco-Dyeing & Finishing of Textiles, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou 310018, China;
    2. Ningbo guangyuan textile Co., Ltd, Ningbo 315000, China;
    3. China National Textile and Apparel Council Key Laboratory of Natural Dyes, Soochow University, Suzhou 215123, China
  • Received:2021-11-08 Published:2022-07-10 Online:2022-08-25

摘要: 为丰富色谱并开发具有良好染色牢度的天然染料,选用菝葜根色素对棉织物染色并研究其染色性能。首先选用长链烷基季铵盐改性剂FE对棉织物进行改性,探讨了改性剂FE质量浓度、温度和时间对染色K/S值的影响,并测试了改性前后棉织物的红外光谱和Zeta电位;然后对菝葜根染料的染色工艺进行优化,探讨了染色pH值、温度、时间、染料与织物的质量分数对染色K/S值的影响;最后对染色后织物进行后媒染处理,测试各项染色牢度。结果表明:较适宜的改性工艺为改性剂FE 6 g/L,60 ℃,30 min;染色工艺为染料5%(o.w.f),染液pH值为7,90 ℃,80 min。天然染料菝葜根染色织物具有较高的染色K/S值,耐皂洗色牢度、耐摩擦色牢度和耐日晒色牢度均能达到3级及以上。

关键词: 菝葜根, 天然染料, 阳离子改性, 棉织物, 染色, 耐日晒色牢度

Abstract: Smilax china L. root pigment was used to dye cotton fabric and its dyeing properties were studied in order to develop natural dyes with good dyeing fastness. Firstly, the cotton fabric was modified with FE, the effects of FE concentration, temperature and time on K/S value were investigated, and the infrared spectroscopy and Zeta potential of cotton fabric were measured. Then the dyeing process of Smilax china L. root dye was optimized, and the effects of pH, temperature, time and amount of dye on K/S value were discussed. Finally, the dyed fabric was treated by post-mordant dyeing to test the dyeing fastness. The results show that the suitable modification process is FE 6 g/L, 60 ℃, 30 min, dyeing process is 5% (o.w.f), pH value is 7, 90 ℃, 80 min. The fabric dyed with natural dyes from Smilax china L. root has a high K/S value, and the color fastness to washing, rubbing and light reaches grade 3 or above.

Key words: Smilax china L. root, natural dye, cationic modification, cotton fabric, dyeing, light fastness

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