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### 棉织物用无甲醛抗皱整理剂的研究进展

1. 天津工业大学纺织科学与工程学院,天津 300387
• 收稿日期:2022-07-26 出版日期:2023-01-10 网络出版日期:2023-01-17
• 通讯作者:牛家嵘, E-mail:niujiarong@tiangong.edu.cn
• 作者简介:梁亚静(1997—),女,河北保定人,硕士研究生,主要从事棉织物抗皱功能整理方面的研究。

### Research progress of formaldehyde-free wrinkle resistant finishing agents for cotton fabrics

LIANG Yajing, YAO Jinbo, FENG Mao, NIU Jiarong

1. School of Textile Science and Engineering, Tiangong University, Tianjin 300387, China
• Received:2022-07-26 Published:2023-01-10 Online:2023-01-17

Abstract: Cotton fabrics are popular for comfortable handle, good breathability, anti-static electricity and affordable prices, but they have the disadvantages of poor elasticity, proness to wrinkle, and can not maintain a smooth appearance in the process of wearing. In order to improve the poor anti-wrinkle properties of cotton fabrics, and conform to the philosophy of environmental protection, the research of formaldehyde-free anti-wrinkle finishing agents has been increasingly extensive and has become the basic requirement of the new technology of anti-wrinkle finishing. Based on the principle of anti-wrinkling, we summarize three kinds of formaldehyde-free anti-wrinkling finishing agents, namely polymer, molecular crosslinked and molecular crosslinked polymers.
Polymeric anti-wrinkle finishing agents realizing anti-wrinkle by resin deposition are mainly chitosan polymers. There are many amino groups and hydroxyl groups in the structure of chitosan, which can be diffused and deposited well to the amorphous region of the fiber. The finished fabric has high strength retention rate, high dye uptake and excellent antibacterial properties, but it has some shortcomings such as poor wrinkle resistance, yellowing and poor hand feel. It needs to be mixed with other finishing agents or modified.
Molecular cross-linked anti-wrinkle finishing agents realize anti-wrinkle by covalent cross-linking and mainly contain polycarboxylic acids, aldehydes and ionic crosslinking compounds. Esterification crosslinking occurs between polycarboxylic acid finishing agents and cellulose macromolecules in cotton fabrics, the finished fabric has excellent wrinkle resistance, good whiteness and washability, but the strength decreases obviously and the cost is high. The above-mentioned finishing agents are often used in combination with other anti-wrinkle finishing agents or mixed with new polycarboxylic acid anti-wrinkle finishing agents in order to obtain an excellent anti-wrinkle effect at a low cost. The aldehyde finishing agents have an aldolization with the hydroxyl groups on the cotton fabric. The finished fabric has high fastness to chlorine damage and low cost, but it has obvious strength loss, yellowing and a pungent smell. The ion-crosslinked finishing agents need the cotton fabric to be ionic modification before ion-crosslinking. The finished fabric has less strength loss and good whiteness, but poor crease resistance.
The molecular cross-linked polymer finishing agents achieve an anti-wrinkle effect through the synergistic effect of resin deposition and covalent cross-linking, with the resins mainly including reactive silicone and waterborne polyurethane. The reactive silicone is often used as a modifier to improve the anti-wrinkle properties of other finishing agents, with good handle and high strength retention rate. The waterborne polyurethane can improve the wrinkle resistance of the finished fabric by improving its molecular structure, and enhance the strength and wear resistance of the finished fabric.
In the future research of anti-wrinkle finishing agents, it is necessary to increase the research of green environmental protection finishing agents such as chitosan and waterborne polyurethane, so as to reduce the cost and broaden the function.