关键词: 凉感面料, 凉感纤维, 织物组织结构, 后整理, 性能评价

Abstract: With the global climate change caused by the greenhouse effect and the increasing demand for fabric wearing comfort, cool-feeling textiles have demonstrated significant value in reducing refrigeration energy consumption and improving the thermal and moisture comfort of summer fabrics. Starting from the preparation technologies of cool-feeling fabrics, such as physical and chemical modification of fibers, fabric structure design, and fabric finishing, this paper summarizes the characteristics and development status of cool-feeling fabrics prepared by various technologies, summarizes the relevant properties of cool-feeling fabrics and their testing and characterization methods, and discusses the development direction of cool-feeling fabrics in depth. In terms of fiber modification, modifying fibers by physical or chemical means can endow fibers and their fabrics with good cool-feeling performance from the source, while also providing the fabrics with excellent wash resistance and wearing comfort. However, the addition of cool-feeling particles tends to cause a decline in the mechanical properties of fibers, and blending cool-feeling particles with fiber masterbatches may weaken their cooling effect. In terms of fabric structure design, adjusting the arrangement of fibers, yarns, etc., avoids the impact of chemical reagents on fabric performance in fiber modification or finishing technologies, retains some of the original properties of fabrics, and ensures more stable durability of cool-feeling performance and better environmental friendliness. Nevertheless, the design of multi-layer fabrics will inevitably lead to an increase in fabric thickness, which affects the wearing comfort such as fabric breathability and softness. Fabric finishing can reduce the impact on fabric thickness to a certain extent and offers multiple implementation methods, but finishing materials tend to cover the fabric gaps, affecting the fabric's moisture permeability, breathability, and softness; additionally, finishing agents are likely to cause environmental pollution. The main evaluation indicators of cool-feeling fabrics include instantaneous contact coolness (qmax), outdoor cooling performance, and thermal conductivity; at present, the testing technology for cool-feeling fabrics has not yet formed a standard system. Existing detection methods mainly rely on the test of instantaneous contact coolness coefficient, which can effectively characterize the heat transfer characteristics of fabrics at the initial stage of contact with the skin, but it is difficult to comprehensively evaluate the sustained coolness in actual use and the influence of environmental factors. The future development directions of cool-feeling fabrics lie in exploring fibers with inherent cool-feeling properties and enhancing their cooling performance, developing temperature-intelligent responsive fibers, yarns or fabrics, optimizing fabric structure design to balance coolness and comfort, researching and developing green and environmentally friendly cool-feeling finishing processes, and establishing a long-term standardized testing system for cool-feeling performance. The further development of cool-feeling fabrics requires material innovation and the collaboration of the entire industrial chain of "fiber-structure-finishing-detection," which will be the key path to promoting the upgrading of cool-feeling textiles.

Key words: cool-feeling fabrics, cool-feeling fibers, fabric structure, finishing, performance evaluation