现代纺织技术

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紫外线与温度协同感应变色凉爽织物的制备及性能

  

  1. 1.浙江理工大学纺织科学与工程学院,浙江杭州 310018; 2.义乌市笙默服饰有限公司,浙江义乌 322000

Preparation and properties of UV and temperature synergistic induction color-changing cool fabrics

  1. 1. College of Textile Science and Engineering (International Institute of Silk), Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou 310018, China; 2. Yiwu Shengmo Clothing Co., Ltd., Jinhua 322000, China

摘要: 针对夏季纺织品智能化及功能性需求,文章开发了一种集接触凉感与紫外线/温度协同变色功能于一体的智能机织物。首先,采用普通涤纶纱为经纱,PE/PA、凉感涤纶和凉感尼龙长丝为纬纱,通过改变纬纱原料、纬密和组织结构制备了18种凉感机织物;其次,探究各参数对织物服用性能的影响,并利用模糊综合评价法优选综合性能最佳的织物作为基布;最后,采用丝网印刷将光/热致变色微胶囊整理至基布表面,并通过正交试验优化粘合剂质量分数、焙烘温度与焙烘时间等工艺参数。结果表明:PE/PA纬纱织物接触凉感系数较高,凉感涤纶纬纱织物透气性较好,凉感尼龙纬纱织物硬挺度最小。随着纬密增加,织物接触凉感与硬挺度增大而透气性减小。缎纹组织在凉感、透气性和柔软度方面均优于其他组织,其中Y6凉感尼龙缎纹织物综合性能最佳。变色整理的最佳工艺参数为粘合剂质量分数25%、焙烘时间5 min、焙烘温度120 ℃。研究制备的织物兼具优良的服用性能与环境响应变色功能,可为多功能智能纺织品的开发提供理论参考。

关键词: 接触凉感, 紫外线感应, 温度感应, 变色性能, 色牢度

Abstract: In view of the intelligent, environmental protection and functional requirements of summer textiles, intelligent textiles that integrate the cool-feeling effect and the color-changing function of common induced conditions such as ultraviolet light and temperature are developed by combining color-changing microcapsules and cool-feeling fabrics. They broad application prospects in the field of functional clothing. A breathable and cool woven fabric was developed by using ordinary polyester yarn as the warp yarn and PE/PA, cool polyester and cool nylon filament as the weft yarn. The effects of weft raw materials, weft density and weave structure on the wearability of the fabric were investigated. The fabric with the best comprehensive performance was selected by fuzzy mathematics and the screen printing discoloration coating was carried out, which had both cooling feeling and UV and temperature discoloration effect. The effects of binder concentration, baking temperature and baking time on the wearability were investigated, and the best preparation process was finally selected. The results show that the coolness coefficient of PE/PA silk fabric was higher; the cool feeling polyester fiber had good air permeability; the stiffness value of cool nylon wire was the smallest. The contact coolness and stiffness of the fabric increased with the increase of weft density, and the air permeability decreased with the increase of weft density. The coolness, air permeability and softness of satin weave were the best. Y6 cool nylon satin fabric had the best comprehensive performance, which can be attached to the surface by thermal/photochromic microcapsules to give the fabric discoloration function. At room temperature, the fabric was red; when only ultraviolet light was sensed, the fabric was purple red; only when the temperature was induced, the fabric was yellow; during temperature/ultraviolet synergistic induction, the fabric changed to green. The discoloration effect was obvious, the color was clear, and the multi-level discoloration was realized. The thermochromic and photochromic microcapsules had good sensitivity, and the discoloration/fading response speed of the color-changing cool fabric was faster than that of the ordinary color-changing fabric. After 100 cycles of testing, the fabric still had good thermal/light reversibility and durability. The dry friction resistance of the color-changing cool fabric was grade 5, and the wet friction resistance and soaping resistance grade increased with the increase of the binder concentration. The stiffness of the fabric decreased first and then increased with the increase of the binder concentration. The finished fabric still had good softness and good air permeability and moisture permeability. By combining the results of grey comprehensive evaluation and orthogonal analysis, the optimum process for preparing color-changing and cool-feeling fabrics was optimized as follows: the concentration of adhesive was 25 %, the baking time was 5min, and the baking temperature was 120 °C. A smart fabric with both coolness and temperature/ultraviolet dual response discoloration was developed by combining color-changing materials with cool fabrics. The fabric improves the adaptability of the human body to the thermal environment, saves energy and protects the environment, and timely feedbacks the skin temperature, which provides an important reference and basis for the development of multifunctional intelligent textiles.

Key words: contact with cool feeling, UV induction, temperature sensing, discoloration performance, color fastness

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