Development of a new method for evaluating the drapability of fabrics

doi:10.19398/j.att.202101015

Abstract

Abstract:

In order to establish a new method for evaluating the drapability of fabrics, a mathematical model describing the drapability of fabrics was developed, and a new index was presented to evaluate the drapability of fabrics. Six pieces of plain linen fabrics were selected. Based on the existing testing instrument for the drapability of fabrics, a 3D scanner was introduced to obtain the 3D images and data of draping fabrics and the data obtained were statistically processed to get evaluation results. The results show that the newly developed mathematical model can accurately describe the draping appearance of different linen fabrics. The test and data analysis of different plain linen fabrics confirm that the new method has higher accuracy. Compared with the umbrella method, this method can evaluate the draping morphologies of fabrics in a more effective way.

Key words: drapability, plain linen fabric, 3D scanning, bending stiffness

摘要：

为了开发评估织物悬垂性的新方法,建立了描述悬垂织物的数学模型,用以描述织物的悬垂外观形态,并提出了评估织物悬垂性的新指标。选取6块平纹亚麻织物,在现有的织物悬垂性能测试仪器的基础上,引入3D扫描仪,获得了悬垂织物三维图像及数据,并对所获得数据进行统计处理得出评估结果。结果表明:新开发的数学模型可以精确地描述不同亚麻织物的悬垂外观形态,通过对不同平纹亚麻织物测试和数据分析,证实了新方法具有较高的准确性,相比于伞式法,该方法可以更为有效地评估织物的悬垂形态。

关键词: 悬垂性, 平纹亚麻织物, 3D扫描, 弯曲刚度

CLC Number:

TS127

RYKLIN Dzmitry, TANG Xiaotong. Development of a new method for evaluating the drapability of fabrics[J]. Advanced Textile Technology, 2022, 30(1): 109-114.

RYKLIN Dzmitry(Рыклин Дмитрий Борисович), 汤晓彤. 评估织物悬垂性的新方法[J]. 现代纺织技术, 2022, 30(1): 109-114.

Figures/Tables 8

Fig.1 Position parameters of individual profiles in the draped fabrics

Tab.1 Fabric specification parameters of plain weave linen

试样编号	厚度/mm	平方米质量/(g.m^-2)	悬垂系数/%	弯曲刚度/((N·cm^-2)
试样编号	厚度/mm	平方米质量/(g.m^-2)	悬垂系数/%	经向	纬向	对角线方向
1	0.45	180.93	43.51	0.578	0.519	0.229
2	0.40	165.88	53.57	0.694	0.443	0.287
3	0.59	260.47	58.61	1.163	0.715	0.467
4	0.40	173.97	60.54	0.641	0.755	0.353
5	0.45	193.56	61.07	0.943	0.683	0.483
6	0.38	163.23	70.15	0.872	1.071	0.562

Fig.2 ArtecSpider portable 3D scanner and its operation schematic

Fig.3 The 3D model has been divided into 4 cross-sections, H=10, 15, 20, 25 mm

Fig.4 When H=20, the profile is divided equally into 72 sectors (top view)

Fig.5 3D images of the draped fabrics

Tab.2 Results of statistical processing of experimental data

支撑盘底部到剖面距离H/mm			模型中的参数值												剖面褶皱形状拟合系数 $R 12$	整体外观形态拟合系数 $R 22$
支撑盘底部到剖面距离H/mm			R₀		ΔR₁		Δφ₁		k₁		ΔR₂		Δφ₂		剖面褶皱形状拟合系数 $R 12$	整体外观形态拟合系数 $R 22$
试样1	10	94.05		12.47		-1.01		1.29		1.52		1.21		0.92		0.93
	15	95.18		18.04		-0.99		1.43		1.81		1.31		0.93
	20	96.12		23.41		-0.97		1.56		1.72		1.50		0.93
	25	96.92		28.41		-0.96		1.64		1.89		1.61		0.93
试样2	10	97.21		16.17		-2.45		1.51		5.43		0.30		0.77		0.82
	15	98.42		19.90		-2.45		1.62		6.05		0.34		0.81
	20	99.54		23.54		-2.44		1.70		6.38		0.35		0.83
	25	100.60		26.88		-2.44		1.75		6.67		0.37		0.84
试样3	10	98.47		11.81		-2.75		1.13		2.42		-0.41		0.53		0.57
	15	100.31		16.39		-2.76		1.17		3.57		-0.42		0.56
	20	101.90		20.74		-2.77		1.22		4.69		-0.44		0.57
	25	103.32		25.01		-2.78		1.25		6.08		-0.47		0.58
试样4	10	97.53		12.75		0.79		1.21		1.58		-1.45		0.65		0.68
	15	101.50		17.67		0.77		1.34		1.67		2.05		0.68
	20	103.12		22.20		0.79		1.41		1.82		1.25		0.70
	25	104.90		26.74		0.79		1.51		2.37		1.28		0.72
试样5	10	99.65		9.54		-2.42		1.09		4.16		-1.08		0.45		0.45
	15	101.86		13.32		-2.41		1.07		5.90		-1.05		0.46
	20	103.64		17.12		-2.39		1.07		7.42		-1.02		0.46
	25	105.53		20.72		-2.37		1.10		8.77		-1.00		0.46
试样6	10	99.03		4.58		2.12		1.01		5.95		1.53		0.30		0.33
	15	103.43		7.91		2.15		1.06		7.27		1.56		0.32
	20	107.01		11.41		2.19		1.10		8.25		1.58		0.33
	25	110.47		14.74		2.19		1.13		8.57		1.60		0.36

Tab.2 Results of statistical processing of experimental data

支撑盘底部到剖面距离H/mm			模型中的参数值												剖面褶皱形状拟合系数 $R 12$	整体外观形态拟合系数 $R 22$
支撑盘底部到剖面距离H/mm			R₀		ΔR₁		Δφ₁		k₁		ΔR₂		Δφ₂		剖面褶皱形状拟合系数 $R 12$	整体外观形态拟合系数 $R 22$
试样1	10	94.05		12.47		-1.01		1.29		1.52		1.21		0.92		0.93
	15	95.18		18.04		-0.99		1.43		1.81		1.31		0.93
	20	96.12		23.41		-0.97		1.56		1.72		1.50		0.93
	25	96.92		28.41		-0.96		1.64		1.89		1.61		0.93
试样2	10	97.21		16.17		-2.45		1.51		5.43		0.30		0.77		0.82
	15	98.42		19.90		-2.45		1.62		6.05		0.34		0.81
	20	99.54		23.54		-2.44		1.70		6.38		0.35		0.83
	25	100.60		26.88		-2.44		1.75		6.67		0.37		0.84
试样3	10	98.47		11.81		-2.75		1.13		2.42		-0.41		0.53		0.57
	15	100.31		16.39		-2.76		1.17		3.57		-0.42		0.56
	20	101.90		20.74		-2.77		1.22		4.69		-0.44		0.57
	25	103.32		25.01		-2.78		1.25		6.08		-0.47		0.58
试样4	10	97.53		12.75		0.79		1.21		1.58		-1.45		0.65		0.68
	15	101.50		17.67		0.77		1.34		1.67		2.05		0.68
	20	103.12		22.20		0.79		1.41		1.82		1.25		0.70
	25	104.90		26.74		0.79		1.51		2.37		1.28		0.72
试样5	10	99.65		9.54		-2.42		1.09		4.16		-1.08		0.45		0.45
	15	101.86		13.32		-2.41		1.07		5.90		-1.05		0.46
	20	103.64		17.12		-2.39		1.07		7.42		-1.02		0.46
	25	105.53		20.72		-2.37		1.10		8.77		-1.00		0.46
试样6	10	99.03		4.58		2.12		1.01		5.95		1.53		0.30		0.33
	15	103.43		7.91		2.15		1.06		7.27		1.56		0.32
	20	107.01		11.41		2.19		1.10		8.25		1.58		0.33
	25	110.47		14.74		2.19		1.13		8.57		1.60		0.36

Fig.6 The relationship between the drape coefficient and the morphological fitting coefficient R 2 2

References 12

[1]	SANAD R, CASSIDY T, VIEN C, Evans E. Fabric and garment drape measurement Part 2[J]. Journal of Fiber Bioengineering and Informatics, 2013, 6(1): 1-22. DOI URL
[2]	TSAI K H, TSAI M C, WANG P N, et al. New approach to directly acquiringe the drape contours of various fabrics[J]. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 2009, 17(3): 54-59.
[3]	GNANAVEL P, ANANTHAKRISHNAN T. Volume based measurement of fabric drape using surfer software and studies on effect of influencing factors[J]. Journal of Textile Science & Engineering, 2014, 4(4): 159.
[4]	姚穆. 纺织材料学[M]. 北京: 中国纺织出版社, 1980:383.
	YAO Mu. Textile Materials[M]. Beijing: China Textiles Press, 1980: 383.
[5]	CARRERA-GALLISSà E, CAPDEVILA X, VALL-DEPERAS J. Evaluating drape shape in woven fabrics[J]. Journal of the Textile Institute, 2017, 108(3): 325-336. DOI URL
[6]	GLOMBIKOVA V, KUS Z. Drape evaluation by the 3D drape scanner[J]. Tekstil ve konfeksiyon, 2014, 24(3): 279-285.
[7]	沈伟, 任静, 周华, 等. 基于Kinect传感器的织物悬垂性测试[J]. 2014, 31(5):306-309,328.
	SHEN Wei, REN Jing, ZHOU Hua, et al. Fabric drape measurement method based on kinect sensor[J]. Journal of Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, 2014, 31(5): 306-309, 328.
[8]	张晓婷, 洪剑寒, 查神爱, 等. 基于三维扫描技术的毛织物悬垂性能测试方法[J]. 毛纺科技, 2015, 43(10):58-61.
	ZHANG Xiaoting, HONG Jianhan, ZHA Shen'ai, et al. Study on the drape performance testing method of wool fabric with three-dimensional scanner[J]. Wool Textile Journal, 2015, 43(10): 58-61.
[9]	YU Z C, ZHONG Y Q, GONG R H, et al. New indicators on fabric drape evaluation based on three-dimensional model[J]. Textile Research Journal, 2020, 90(11/12): 1291-1300. DOI URL
[10]	РЫКЛИН Д Б, ТАН С ГРИШАЕВ А Н ПЕСКОВСКИЙ Д В. Разработка математической модели драпированной ткани с использованием данных получаемых в процессе 3D-сканирования[J]. Вестник Витебского государственного технологического университета, 2018, 1(34): 70-78.
	RYKLIN D B, TANG X, GRISHAEV A, et al. Development of mathematical model of draped fabric with use of 3-d scanning data[J]. Vestnik of Vitebsk State Technological University, 2018, 1(34): 70-78.
[11]	РЫКЛИН Д Б, ТАН С. Оценка анизотропии драпируемости тканей на основе анализа результатов 3D-сканирования[J]. Известия высших учебных заведений. Технология текстильной промышленности, 2020, 2(386): 137-145.
	RYKLIN D B, TANG Х. Evaluation of fabrics dreapeability anisotropy on the base of 3d-scanning results analysis[J]. Higher Education Institutions Textile Industry Technology, 2020, 2(386): 137-145.
[12]	徐军, 姚穆. 织物弯曲刚度各向异性探讨[J]. 西北纺织工学院学报, 2001, 15(2):102-104,135.
	XU Jun, YAO Mu. Discussion on bending rigidity anisotropy of fabrics[J]. Journal of Northwest Institute of Textile Science and Technology, 2001, 15(2): 102-104, 135.