Abstract: Cotton fabrics are popular for comfortable handle, good breathability, anti-static electricity and affordable prices, but they have the disadvantages of poor elasticity, proness to wrinkle, and can not maintain a smooth appearance in the process of wearing. In order to improve the poor anti-wrinkle properties of cotton fabrics, and conform to the philosophy of environmental protection, the research of formaldehyde-free anti-wrinkle finishing agents has been increasingly extensive and has become the basic requirement of the new technology of anti-wrinkle finishing. Based on the principle of anti-wrinkling, we summarize three kinds of formaldehyde-free anti-wrinkling finishing agents, namely polymer, molecular crosslinked and molecular crosslinked polymers.
Polymeric anti-wrinkle finishing agents realizing anti-wrinkle by resin deposition are mainly chitosan polymers. There are many amino groups and hydroxyl groups in the structure of chitosan, which can be diffused and deposited well to the amorphous region of the fiber. The finished fabric has high strength retention rate, high dye uptake and excellent antibacterial properties, but it has some shortcomings such as poor wrinkle resistance, yellowing and poor hand feel. It needs to be mixed with other finishing agents or modified.
Molecular cross-linked anti-wrinkle finishing agents realize anti-wrinkle by covalent cross-linking and mainly contain polycarboxylic acids, aldehydes and ionic crosslinking compounds. Esterification crosslinking occurs between polycarboxylic acid finishing agents and cellulose macromolecules in cotton fabrics, the finished fabric has excellent wrinkle resistance, good whiteness and washability, but the strength decreases obviously and the cost is high. The above-mentioned finishing agents are often used in combination with other anti-wrinkle finishing agents or mixed with new polycarboxylic acid anti-wrinkle finishing agents in order to obtain an excellent anti-wrinkle effect at a low cost. The aldehyde finishing agents have an aldolization with the hydroxyl groups on the cotton fabric. The finished fabric has high fastness to chlorine damage and low cost, but it has obvious strength loss, yellowing and a pungent smell. The ion-crosslinked finishing agents need the cotton fabric to be ionic modification before ion-crosslinking. The finished fabric has less strength loss and good whiteness, but poor crease resistance.
The molecular cross-linked polymer finishing agents achieve an anti-wrinkle effect through the synergistic effect of resin deposition and covalent cross-linking, with the resins mainly including reactive silicone and waterborne polyurethane. The reactive silicone is often used as a modifier to improve the anti-wrinkle properties of other finishing agents, with good handle and high strength retention rate. The waterborne polyurethane can improve the wrinkle resistance of the finished fabric by improving its molecular structure, and enhance the strength and wear resistance of the finished fabric.
In the future research of anti-wrinkle finishing agents, it is necessary to increase the research of green environmental protection finishing agents such as chitosan and waterborne polyurethane, so as to reduce the cost and broaden the function.

Key words: cotton fabric, anti-wrinkle finishing, formaldehyde-free, pitch deposition, molecular crosslinking

摘要： 为改善棉织物抗皱性能差的问题,从树脂沉积和共价交联的抗皱原理出发,将典型的无甲醛抗皱整理剂分为高聚物型、分子交联型及分子交联型高聚物3类。高聚物型包含壳聚糖,以树脂沉积为作用原理实现抗皱;分子交联型包含多元羧酸类、醛基类及离子交联类等小分子化合物,通过与织物产生分子间交联实现抗皱;分子交联型高聚物包含反应性有机硅和水性聚氨酯,通过树脂沉积和共价交联协同作用实现抗皱。分析了各类整理剂的抗皱机制及其对棉织物抗皱、强力等性能的影响,同时对无甲醛抗皱整理剂的发展进行了展望。

关键词: 棉织物, 抗皱整理, 无甲醛, 树脂沉积, 分子交联