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Impact of virtual idol anthropomorphism on virtual apparel purchase intention LUO Linxiaoa, CHEN Lihong b Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (4): 268-285.   Abstract （396）      PDF （1451KB）（1453）       Knowledge map    Save In recent years, virtual apparel and virtual idols are the hot topics that have emerged. The emergence of virtual apparel has broken the limitations of the traditional apparel industry, and designers can make consumers "wear" exclusive virtual apparel through modeling technology, creating a new opportunity for the future development of the apparel sector. At present, a mature business model has not yet been formed for the domestic virtual apparel industry, while a more mature business model has been formed for virtual idol industry and has strong relevance to virtual apparel. Many virtual apparel designers or studios began to try to use virtual idol endorsement in order to break through. However, there are some problems such as unsatisfactory endorsement effects for virtual idols in the process of apparel brand endorsement, which is mainly due to the inability to meet the audience's demand for their anthropomorphism in the early stage of exploration. Furthermore, there is little research on virtual idol endorsement of virtual apparel and the influence of anthropomorphism on the purchase intention of virtual apparel in the process of virtual idol endorsement of virtual apparel in the existing literature, which is necessary for for virtual idol companies and virtual apparel companies. First of all, the concepts of virtual idol anthropomorphism and virtual apparel were redefined, two variables of virtual idol anthropomorphism and parasocial interaction were introduced to explore the impact of the four dimensions of virtual idol anthropomorphism, namely appearance, moral virtue, cognitive experience and conscious emotionality on the purchase intention of virtual apparel, and the intermediary role of parasocial interaction in it is verified, which is groundbreaking in the field of virtual apparel endorsed by virtual idols. Secondly, this paper constructs an extended model of the Technology Acceptance Model, which expands the scope of the applied research of the Technology Acceptance Model. Finally, this paper conducts questionnaire survey based on the extended model, collects relevant data, analyzes its reliability and validity and uses the structural equation model for empirical analysis, which can provide theoretical support and scientific basis for virtual idol companies and virtual apparel companies. The results show that virtual idol anthropomorphism has a significant positive effect on the purchase intention of virtual apparel, in which the moral virtue and cognitive experience of virtual idol have a more significant impact on the purchase intention of virtual apparel than appearance and conscious emotionality; parasocial interaction, perceived ease of use, perceived usefulness and brand attitude have a chain intermediary role in the whole process.  According to the experimental results, when operating virtual idol IP, the companies should reasonably design communication events and plot short videos or live content, in order to focus on improving the anthropomorphic cognition of virtual idols in two dimensions: moral virtue and cognitive experience. It is sufficient to reach the market standardization level for the degree of appearance anthropomorphism. Meanwhile, the means to increase the degree of conscious emotionality anthropomorphism is costly but less effective. In addition, the companies can also play a role in increasing the purchase intention of virtual apparel by improving parasocial interaction, perceived ease of use and perceived usefulness. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research status and progress of textile materials with sound-absorbing and sound insulation functions PAN Leilei, FAN Shuo, WANG Yuxuan, ZHANG Hongxia Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (6): 216-225.   Abstract （225）      PDF （2166KB）（1142）       Knowledge map    Save As a global environmental problem, noise pollution seriously endangers people's physical health and quality of life, affecting sleep, damaging the hearing system, damaging cardiovascular system, causing mental system dysfunction, reducing work efficiency, and affecting children's intellectual development. Therefore, it is crucial to develop materials with sound absorption and sound insulation functions. The porous structure of textile materials endows them with sound absorption performance, making them widely used in the field of noise reduction. Textile materials, as porous materials, are based on a combination of sound absorption and sound insulation mechanisms. The sound absorption and sound insulation of textile materials includes three parts. The first part is that the incident sound wave is reflected. The second part is that sound waves enter the pores in the fiber material, causing air vibration and causing sound energy loss. The third part is the multiple reflections of sound waves in the material pores. The biggest advantage of textile materials compared to other flexible materials lies in their processing performance, which can be processed into various shapes, arranged regularly, and distributed evenly. Based on this advantage, textile materials can be combined with other materials to prepare composite noise reduction materials. Materials with sound absorption and sound insulation functions include porous materials, resonant materials, and damping materials. To improve the noise reduction performance of porous textile materials, textile materials are combined with resonance materials and damping materials. Three types of textile composite noise reduction materials can be generated through different construction methods: porous composite noise reduction materials, porous and resonant composite noise reduction materials, and porous and damping composite noise reduction materials. These three composite noise reduction materials can effectively improve the noise reduction performance in the mid to low frequency range and broaden the range of sound absorption frequency bands. Porous composite noise reduction materials can form three types of materials: multi-layer structure, sandwich structure, and gradient structure by laminating different materials. Porous and resonant composite materials are composites of fibrous porous materials and resonant materials, including thin plates, perforated plates, and microperforated plates. Among them, perforated plate resonance and microperforated plate resonance are the most commonly used resonant sound absorption methods today. In addition, noise reduction functional fillers are also widely used in textile materials, forming porous and damping composite noise reduction materials. The preparation of composite noise reduction materials by combining textile porous materials with other materials is still the research focus of current sound-absorbing and sound insulation functional textile materials. In addition, with the rapid development of technology and the requirements of sustainable green development, the recycling and reuse of waste fibers and the application of new technologies will be the main development trends in the future. The future sound-absorbing and sound insulation textile materials should develop towards the direction of structural diversification, material composites, intelligent methods, and green environmental protection. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress on sustainable fashion consumption ZHOU Zeyan, XU Jun, SHAN Yufu, HAO Yan, LEI Zhenzhen Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (4): 1-10.   Abstract （201）      PDF （1667KB）（667）       Knowledge map    Save Sustainability is the focus of the fashion industry, but the research on sustainable fashion consumption is still very scattered, lacking of more systematic summary. Based on the above problems, this paper uses Bibliometrix to conduct a quantitative analysis and a systematic literature review of 140 articles published in the Web of Science from 2018 to 2022. As shown by the results, this field mainly conducts research from four themes: consumer perspective, business perspective, product perspective and industry perspective. Challenges in sustainable fashion consumption include pollution, complexity, incompatibility, ecological consciousness, social status and unfairness. Opportunities in sustainable fashion consumption include utilitarianism, hedonism, leadership influence, nostalgia, pollution management and adequacy. Future research can be carried out from the perspective of national characteristic culture, technology perspective, nostalgic perspective, infant perspective, and transnational perspective.  Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation and properties of bacterial cellulose nanofiber membranes and fibers CHEN Qinqin, XU Zhaomei, MA Tingfang, FU Feiya, LIU Xiangdong Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (5): 66-75.   Abstract （182）      PDF （8110KB）（646）       Knowledge map    Save Bacterial cellulose (BC), as a suitable alternative to petroleum-based materials, has many inherent and unique properties such as biocompatibility, biodegradability, breathability and high-water holding capacity. But it is difficult to dissolve in common organic solvents because of its tight intramolecular and intermolecular hydrogen bonds. BC usually exists in the form of thin membranes, and the mechanical properties of BC dried membranes are poor. The current methods for preparing BC nanofiber membranes (NFMs) with BC fibers all inevitably destroy the original structure of BC.  In this work, the hydrogen bonding between water and nanofibers in BC hydrogel membranes was weakened by the solvent replacement method, and the layer-by-layer peeling of BC dry membranes was achieved by hot-pressing drying combined with the top-down mechanical peeling method to produce high-strength BC-NFM, and BC fibers could be obtained by further twisting of NFMs. The morphology, structure and physicochemical properties of the BC dry membrane, NFMs and BC fibers were analyzed and studied by characterization means such as scanning electron microscopy, X-ray diffractometer, thermogravimetric analyzer, infrared spectrometer and tensile test. In addition, the strain sensing fiber BC/CNT can be achieved by embedding functional materials such as CNT into NFMs before twisting. The resistance change rate of the BC/CNT fiber obtained by this method can reach 2%. It is shown that the randomly distributed nanofibers on the surface of the BC dry membrane all have a network structure and exhibit a dense structure. As the mechanical peeling step proceeds, the nanofibers on the NFM surface become dispersed and the number of disordered nanofibers on the surface increases, which proves that NMP weakens the hydrogen bonds between the solvent and the BC nanofibers, thus facilitating the mechanical peeling of BC, and in turn leading to the appearance of microfibrils on the NFM surface. The crystallinity of all three mechanically exfoliated NFMs is lower than that of the dry BC membrane, and the crystallinity of 3rd-NFM is the smallest, demonstrating that the NMP treatment does not affect the BC crystal structure. The small-angle scattering patterns show that the arc diameter gradually becomes smaller with the increase of the stripping number, and the 3rd-NFM is the smallest, which proves that the stripping process breaks the hydrogen bonds inside BC and increases the disorder. The intensity of the tensile vibrational peak of the cellulose C−H bond decreases with the increase of the number of peeling, which proves that NMP can break the hydrogen bonds between BC molecules and form new hydrogen bonds with the hydroxyl groups in BC molecules. The NFMs with thickness in the range of 5.0 to 8.0 μm shows a maximum transmission of 23%, water absorption of 2,284% and tensile strength of 338.0 MPa, each of which is higher than that of the BC dry membrane. Compared with the maximum decomposition temperature of the BC dry membrane (359.7 °C), the main weight loss peak temperatures of all the three NFMs are reduced in the range of 333.7 to 339.5 °C, demonstrating the disruption of intermolecular and intramolecular hydrogen bonds of BC by NMP. Surface SEM images of BC fibers show that the 3rd-NFM-fiber has the smallest diameter and the tightest structure, proving that mechanical peeling effectively reduces the diameter of NFMs-fiber and enhances the structural denseness of the fiber. The monitoring of tiny human body movements by BC/CNT conductive fibers fully demonstrates their potential application in smart wearable devices.  This paper provides scientific data for the preparation of BC-NFMs by top-down method of mechanical peeling, which provides new ideas for the development of high-strength NFMs. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Progress on the regulation of crystallization behavior and phase transition mechanism of poly(hydroxybutyrate-co-hydroxyvalerate) MIAO Lulu, DONG Zhengmei, XIE Guoyan, LÜ Shafeng, ZHU Fanqiang, ZOU Zhuanyong Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (4): 119-129.   Abstract （157）      PDF （2679KB）（514）       Knowledge map    Save Poly(3-hydroxybutyrate-co-3-hydroxyvalerate)(PHBV), is a kind of biomaterial produced by fermentation engineering technology using starch as the raw material. It is not only environmentally friendly, easy to biodegrade, and pollution-free, but also exhibits similar properties to polypropylene. It holds great promise for the development and application of new bio-based fibers. However, PHBV itself also has problems of high brittleness, poor toughness, and poor thermal stability, restricting its large-scale application in textile and other fields. Considering that the physical and mechanical properties of polymers are closely related to the crystalline condensed structure, this paper therefore introduces the crystal structure and properties of PHBV copolymers, summarizes the methods for regulating the crystallisation behaviour of PHBV, concludes the existing studies on the crystalline phase transition mechanism of PHBV copolymers, and provides an outlook on the application prospects of PHBV materials.  The copolymerization units of PHBV are 3-hydroxybutyric acid (HB) and 3-hydroxyvalerate acid (HV), both of which belong to the same orthogonal crystal system. The common methods for regulating the crystallization behavior of PHBV include chemical modification, physical blending modification, external force field induced crystallization, heat treatment regulation and thermal stress stretching. Chemical modifications include block copolymerization modification, graft copolymerization modification, crosslinking modification, end group chain extension and long chain branching, etc., which can increase the main chain of the PHBV polymer or construct the body structure to improve the mechanical properties of the material. Physical blending modification usually blends PHBV with nanoparticles, plasticizers, and other polymers to increase the nucleation rate by heterogeneous nucleation to improve the tenacity of the material. During the processing, PHBV is subjected to external force to induce the orientation of the polymer molecular chain, which may be accompanied by the phase transition of the polycrystalline polymer, thus affecting the crystal structure and crystallization kinetics of the polymer. Heat treatment is conducive to the generation of thermodynamically stable crystals to improve the brittleness of materials. Thermal stress stretching promotes the formation of βchain conformation and increases the strength of the material. The β-form of PHB in PHBV is a metastable crystal form formed by stretching, with good elongation of the molecular chain and significantly improved mechanical properties of the material. The thermodynamic stability of α and β crystal forms of PHBV is different, and the two will change under the action of external force strong enough. One-step or two-step stretching is usually used to promote the transformation of α-form to β-form to improve the mechanical properties of materials. The regulation of PHBV crystallization behavior and the study of phase transition mechanism can improve the toughness, thermal stability and tensile properties of PHBV materials to some extent. And a more convenient and easy-to-operate way to regulate the crystal form and crystalline structure of PHBV can be explored in the future by considering the synergistic effect between various regulation methods, so as to meet the needs of PHBV industrialization production and continuously promote the expansion of PHBV application market. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Application progress of conductive fibers in the application of new textiles XIE Jinlin, ZHANG Jing, GUO Yuxing, ZHAO Zhihui, QIU Hua, GU Peng, Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (6): 241-254.   Abstract （339）      PDF （7451KB）（425）       Knowledge map    Save With the development of new science and technology, textiles are not limited to the applications of warm keeping and beauty. Extra functions such as sensing and indicating are the new trend of the 21st century and the concept of e-textiles and smart textiles emerges as the times require. Thus, conductive fibers have attracted extraordinary attention with the upsurge of interest in flexible and wearable health monitoring systems, energy storage devices and noninvasive human–machine interfaces. In the meantime, conductive fibers also show excellent antistatic and shielding electromagnetic radiation properties, which made conductive fibers the excellent candidate for wearable textile devices and industrial textile products.  In the 1960s, people began to develop conductive fibers for antistatic purpose, and different types of conductive fibers were gradually developed. So far, conductive fibers can be divided into three main types. The first type is fibers made by inorganic materials such as metals and carbon, but these fibers exhibit poor wearability and conductive instability. The second type is polymer fibers such as PPy and PANI, which show a good conductivity up to 103 S/cm.  However, the preparation process of fiber formation is quite complex because of the high toxic monomer, high molecular weight and oxidation. The third type is composite conductive fibers made through coating or blending fabric technology. By blending or coating conductive polymers, metals or other conductive materials (such as MXene and Graphene), the composite fibers can always inherit the benefits from both conventional fibers and conductive materials. Currently, the major researches of conductive fibers are focused on textile technology and materials science. Although there are some review articles on the similar topics, it is necessary to summarize the recent development of conductive fibers in the application of next generation textile products. In this study, we present a review of the classification and preparation techniques of conductive fibers, as well as the application and development of antistatic, electromagnetic shielding and flexible sensors in detail. Future perspective is given in the end, which could shed light in the conductive fiber research and industry, especially in the area of smart wearable devices.  Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation and application of silk fibroin/alizarin composite fiber membranes YU Linshuang, JIN Wanhui, ZHOU Ying, YAN Yueyue, LEI Caihong, ZHU Hailin, CHEN Jianyong Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (5): 58-65.   Abstract （154）      PDF （4652KB）（393）       Knowledge map    Save Sudden bleeding accident is one of the important causes of human death, and the death caused by massive bleeding is a considerable medical problem. Therefore, the rapid control of bleeding has become the focus of clinical treatment, and is of important significance in military trauma and traffic accidents. Currently, few antibacterial hemostatic materials developed can simultaneously meet the requirements of low price, rapid hemostatic and low side effects, so there is still huge potential in the development of safe and non-toxic antibacterial hemostatic materials. Silk fibroin is a natural polymer, and has been studied and applied in the field of biomedical materials due to its good hemostatic performance, biocompatibility and biodegradability. However, the antibacterial property of the homogenous silk fibroin protein material is insufficient, which limits its application in wound dressing. In recent years, although inorganic antibacterial agents and organic antibacterial agents are widely used and have high bacteriostatic efficiency, they are still difficult to avoid the environmental problems caused by chemical synthesis and the drawbacks of harming human health. Natural antibacterial agents have become a better choice in the field of medical materials. Alizarin extracted from the medicinal plant madder, is a natural antibacterial agent, has few side effects on the human body, and has hemostatic, anti-inflammatory and other effects. In this paper, alizarin was used as natural antiseptic and hexafluoroisopropyl alcohol was used as solvent to dissolve silk fibroin protein and prepare a spinning solution. The microscopic morphology, water absorption, hemostatic and antibacterial properties of silk fibroin/alizarin composite fiber membranes were investigated under different proportions. The results show that, compared with pure silk fibroin fiber membranes, the diameter distribution of the composite fiber membrane with alizarin has no obvious difference. The fibers in the membrane are compact and smooth without beading morphology. At the same time, new absorption peaks appear on the infrared curve of the composite fiber membrane, corresponding to the out-of-plane bending vibration of the C-H bond in the benzene ring, the in-plane bending vibration of C-H plane, and the out-of-plane bending vibration of C-H. The changes of the above peaks indicate the existence of alizarin in the silk fibroin film. Compared with hemostatic gauze, the water absorption of silk fibroin protein film has a significant advantage, and the water absorption of the composite film gradually decreases with the increase of alizarin content. Compared with the BCI value of hemostatic gauze, the BCI value of the composite film decreases gradually with the increase of alizarin content, and the addition of alizarin significantly improves the hemostatic performance of the film. Compared with pure silk fibroin protein membrane, the antibacterial activity of the composite membrane is significantly improved, and the antibacterial rate increases with the increase of the ratio of silk fibroin to alizarin. At the same time, under the condition that the mass ratio of silk fibroin to alizarin of 10:1, the antibacterial rates of the composite membrane are both more than 90% against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli, showing strong antibacterial effect. Silk fibroin and alizarin are natural substances, with little harm to human body. Silk/alizarin composite membranes have good effect in hemostasis and antibacterial test, and show great application prospect in the development of silk fibroin wounds. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Effect of spinneret structure on flow characteristics of polymer melt in melt spinning extrusion process SHEN Zekun, WANG Hui, YING Qifan Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (6): 80-91.   Abstract （211）      PDF （5822KB）（357）       Knowledge map    Save At present, the preparation of highly homogeneous polyester fibers is still a great challenge. The stability of melt flow in melt spinning process and the degree of non-uniformity of radial velocity distribution before extrusion affect the quality of subsequent spinning. In this paper, the flow process of polyester melt in microporous flow channel was studied by numerical simulation. The melt flow characteristics under different microporous structure of spinneret and different inlet velocity were analyzed. The non-uniformity coefficient related to melt velocity was proposed, and the influence mechanism of microporous flow channel structure parameters on the stability and uniformity of melt flow was further clarified. The spinneret structure corresponding to the optimum non-uniformity coefficient of melt flow is pointed out. With the increase of inlet velocity, the variation degree of melt average velocity before and after extrusion first decreases and then increases, and the flow is the most stable at 1 m/s. The time pressure drop is more stable when the inlet velocity ranges from 0.5 m/s to 1 m/s, and is more conducive to the internal stress of the primary fiber. The increase of flow velocity increases the average shear rate in the free section and strengthens the melt orientation. However, when the inlet flow velocity is 2 m/s and 3 m/s, the maximum shear rate in the flow passage reaches 105 orders of magnitude, and the possibility of melt fracture is higher, which is not conducive to the flow stability. The inlet velocity has little effect on the non-uniformity coefficient of melt flow when the spinneret geometry is unchanged. The study shows that the inlet velocity of 1m/s should be selected. When the die length-diameter ratio is 2 and 3, the average velocity before and after extrusion changes less, and the flow is more stable. When the length-diameter ratio is 2 and 3, the pressure drop is more conducive to the internal stress of the primary fiber. When the aspect to diameter ratio is 2,3,4, the average shear rate in the free section is high, that is, the melt orientation degree is high. However, when the aspect to diameter ratio is 2 and 4, there is still a maximum shear rate in the free section, which is easy to lead to melt fracture and is not conducive to flow stability. At the same time, as the melt is always in the fully developed section when the length-diameter ratio is increased, the thicker the boundary layer is, the more uniform the flow will be, and the non-uniformity coefficient will decrease. The results show that 3 spinneret is the best. When the convergence Angle is 54° and 74°, the average velocity before and after extrusion changes less, and the flow is more stable. When the convergence Angle is from 54° to 96°, the pressure drop changes stably with the maximum difference of 14.29%, which is within the reasonable range. The average melt shear rate in the free section decreases with the increase of convergence Angle, and the degree of melt orientation decreases. However, when the convergence Angle is 54° and 74°, the maximum melt shear rate in the center of the flow channel is small, and the melt is not easy to break, and the flow stability is better. At the same time, because the convergence Angle changes the radial velocity component at the entrance of the die, the influence on the flow uniformity is obvious. The results show that the spinneret with convergence Angle of 74° is the best. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation of a unidirectional water transport Janus composite cotton fabric and its cooling performance CHEN Fan, JIN Wanhui, WANG Tao Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (5): 190-197.   Abstract （140）      PDF （6431KB）（354）       Knowledge map    Save Thermal homeostasis and stable body temperature are crucial for personal comfort and work productivity. The human body maintains a core temperature of around 37 °C through a complex physiological thermoregulation system. However, in extreme conditions such as sports, military, firefighting, and medical care, the body's thermoregulation capacity is easily overwhelmed, leading to heat stress and physiological harm. Traditional textiles with inadequate thermal and moisture management performance can result in heat and sweat accumulation on the skin surface. Cooling by external equipment such as fans and air conditioners is commonly used to achieve thermal comfort but consumes considerable energy and imposes a burden on sustainable energy.  While researchers have made progress in developing Janus nano-fibrous membranes that offer excellent unidirectional water transport and cooling performance, there are still significant challenges to overcome. One of the primary obstacles is the lack of interlayer forces in these membranes, which can cause them to peel off easily and trap liquid between the layers during unidirectional water transport, resulting in a loss of the material's unidirectional water transport ability. Moreover, the large-scale fabrication of electro-sprayed nano-fibrous membranes has not yet been achieved, which limits their practical applications. Addressing these issues is critical to developing effective and practical thermal and moisture management textiles that can deliver superior performance. As a result of these challenges, there is an increasing demand for the development of simpler and more practical thermal and moisture management textiles that can overcome the limitations of existing materials and provide better performance. In this work, a unidirectional water transport Janus composite cotton fabric was prepared for personal cooling, utilizing its two functions of unidirectional sweat expulsion and thermal conduction to synergistically cool the human body. The Janus structure was constructed by using a screen printing technique combined with a spray-coating method to load SiC NPs/PVA coating and PDMS coating on both sides of the cotton fabric. The wetting behavior, unidirectional water transport, and thermal conduction performance of the Janus composite cotton fabric were characterized after the static water contact angle test, drip diffusion experiment, and heating platform warming experiment. The Janus composite cotton fabric also showed good cooling effect in outdoor environments. Nanoengineered textiles can intelligently improve personal comfort in severe changeable environments and promote sustainable development while alleviating potential health risks from global warming. The results of the research on the unidirectional water transport Janus composite cotton fabric for personal cooling have a wide range of applications in the field of thermal and moisture management textiles for outdoors. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress on extraction, identification and analysis methods of dyestuffs in ancient textiles TAO Yuan, WANG Qicai Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (4): 217-226.   Abstract （128）      PDF （1203KB）（338）       Knowledge map    Save The effective identification of dyes in ancient textiles can provide the best scheme for the preservation and restoration of related textile cultural relics, and important reference for the application of natural dyes and the development of new dyes and dyeing processes. Studies related to dye identification for ancient textiles are reviewed, with focuses on on the two aspects of extraction methods and detection techniques of dyes. Suggestions and development direction are provided for the effective identification of ancient textile dyes.  The main extraction methods of dyes include solution extraction, in situ non-extraction, the adsorption technique by contact gel, etc. Both the solution extraction and in situ non-extraction methods have different degrees of invasive or destructive sampling of textiles. By contrast, the adsorption technique by contact gel does not require destructive sampling or special treatment of the sample, and the dye can be extracted by directly contacting the surface of the sample with the special gel for a certain time. Therefore, this method can achieve non-invasive and non-destructive sampling to a certain extent, which is a potential method for extracting dyes from ancient textiles. Dye detection techniques mainly include spectrology, chromatography, mass spectrometry, and so on. According to the degree of damage to textiles, they can be divided into two main categories: non-invasive techniques and micro-invasive techniques. Non-invasive techniques can be used to detect a sample without damaging it (or slightly damaging it), such as UV-visible diffuse reflectance spectroscopy (fiber optic reflectance spectroscopy, FORS), fluorescence spectrum analysis, conventional Raman spectroscopy technology, and direct mass spectrometry technology. At present, most non-invasive techniques can obtain relatively effective detection results, but most of them have certain limitations. These methods often fail to obtain detailed information about the composition of dyes, which makes it difficult to analyze the composition and determine the source of dyes. Therefore, in most cases, current non-invasive detection techniques are only used for preliminary identification of dyes in ancient textiles. Microinvasive techniques require taking a small sample, or extracting the dye components from it, to make a sample ready for testing, such as surface enhanced Raman spectroscopy (SERS) and liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS). Due to the complexity of surface composition and aging condition of ancient textiles, at present, high performance liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS), which requires micro-invasive sampling, is still the most accurate, stable, and reliable detection technique.  Finally, it is pointed out that the dye identification technology of ancient textiles is developing towards non-destructive, rapid and high precision, and developing effective noninvasive methods of sampling, building abundant spectrum database of dye, and developing new nondestructive testing technologies are key research directions in the future.  Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Structure and properties of thermoplastic polyamide elastic fibers YANG Qian, WENG Ming, ZHANG Mengru, WANG Xiuhua Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (5): 96-105.   Abstract （181）      PDF （3268KB）（289）       Knowledge map    Save With the improvement of people's living standards, consumer's demand for textile function has shifted from warmth and beauty to more details such as comfort and appropriateness. Among them, elastic clothing has been favored by many consumers due to its shaping and comfort properties. Elastic fibers are synthetic fibers with low modulus, high elongation, and high elastic recovery, and can be divided into intrinsic elastic fibers and form elastic fibers according to their elastic mechanisms. Intrinsic elastic fibers mainly include polyurethane elastic fibers, polyester elastic fibers, and polyolefin elastic fibers. Among them, polyurethane elastic fibers are widely welcomed due to their excellent performance, but they cannot be used as bare yarns and are often used in the form of wrapped yarns with other fibers; form elastic fibers such as bicomponent composite crimped fibers have good elastic recovery rate under small forces, but lack intrinsic elasticity after crimping is eliminated.  Thermoplastic polyamide elastomer (TPAE), a new type of thermoplastic elastomer, is composed of polyamide hard segments and aliphatic polyester or polyether soft segments. Due to the thermodynamic incompatibility between the soft and hard chain segments of TPAE, a microphase separation structure is produced. The hard chain segment of TPAE is rich in crystalline microregions and hydrogen bonds, and its type determines the mechanical properties such as hardness, wear resistance, and chemical resistance of TPAE; the soft segment is located in the amorphous region, and its type determines its low-temperature mechanical properties, flexibility, and elongation. Therefore, the content ratio of soft and hard chain segments and the degree of polymerization have  decisive influence on the physical properties of TPAE. Compared with TPU with excellent elastic recovery rates, TPAE has better thermal stability, with a maximum operating temperature of 175℃ and can be used for a long time at 150℃. Therefore, TPAE is widely used in sports, aerospace, medicine and other fields, but there are fewer research reports on fibers. In order to expand the application of TPAE in the field of elastic fibers, we used TPAE as raw material and prepared TPAE primary silk by using a laboratory horizontal micro extruder, and then subjected it to different stretching multiples and thermal setting temperatures for post-processing. We investigated the effects of stretching multiples and thermal setting temperatures on fibers crystalline orientation, elastic recovery rates, creep resistance, and thermal shrinkage properties. The results show that the stretching and thermal setting process can make the TPAE fibers structure more complete. When the thermal setting temperature is 100℃ and the stretching multiple increases from 2 to 5 times, the elastic recovery rate increases from 91.1% to 94.0% at a fixed extension of 15%, and from 87.2% to 90.7% at a fixed extension of 50%. When the stretching multiple is 4 times, the elastic recovery rate increases from 87.0% to 91.5% as the thermal setting temperature increases from 80℃ to 120℃ at a fixed extension of 15%, and from 88.7% to 90.7% at a fixed extension of 50%, indicating excellent elastic recovery performance.  Based on the test results of the properties of TPAE fibers in this paper, they can be used in different elastic fabrics can be developed to expand their application in the field of fibers. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Identification of gardenia yellow plant dyes and their dyed silk fabrics GUI Zuwena, b, XU Haoninga, b, CHEN Haixiangb, YU Zhichenga, b, WANG Leia, b Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (6): 1-8.   Abstract （287）      PDF （1466KB）（258）       Knowledge map    Save In recent years, with the improvement of people's awareness of environmental protection, ecological textiles have been increasingly favored by people. Because of their non-toxic, biodegradable and other characteristics, plant dyes are widely used to study the dyeing and printing of textiles. Dyeing and printing with plant dyes can not only reduce the harm of dyes to the human body and make full use of natural renewable resources, but also greatly reduce the toxicity of printing and dyeing wastewater, playing a role in protecting the environment indirectly. At present, the development and utilization of plant dyes is under the active exploration and research, and the plant dye demonstration system engineering has been launched officially. In order to fill the deficiency of the world plant dye standard system, and lay a solid foundation for China to lead the development of the global plant dye industry, it is necessary to establish the identification methods and standards of plant dye series of products. In order to ensure the quality of plant dyeing products on the market, crack down on fake and shoddy products, and standardize market operation, so that consumers can rest assured and buy satisfactory plant dyeing products, it is very important to identify the corresponding vegetable dyes and dyeing textiles. In order to identify plant dyes and their dyed textiles, this paper takes gardenia yellow plant dyes and dyed silk fabrics as the research objects. Firstly, the gardenia yellow plant dyes were tested by ultraviolet spectrophotometer, and the markers of gardenia yellow plant dyes were indentified by combining with the descriptions in the literature. Then the markers, gardenia yellow plant dyes and their dyed silk fabric extract were detected by using liquid mass combination instrument under negative ion mode. By comparing the retention time and mass spectrometry of the dyes, dyed silk fabric extract and the dyed silk fabric, whether the dye and fabric were gardenia yellow plant dye and its dyed silk fabric was determined. The results showed that crocin Ⅰ and crocin acid could be used as markers to distinguish gardenia yellow plant dyes and their dyed silk fabrics. The molecular ion peaks m/z=975.3472 and m/z=327.1553 were detected in the mass spectrum of gardenia yellow plant dyes, and the retention times were 0.61 min and 1.38 min, respectively. The molecular ion peaks m/z=975.396 and m/z=327.1489 were detected in the mass spectrum of dyed silk fabric extract, and the retention times were 0.61 min and 1.38 min, respectively. The retention times were similar to the peak time of the crocin Ⅰ standard substance (0.61 min) and crocin acid standard substance (1.36 min), and the deviations were within the allowable deviation range of ±2.5%. Therefore, it was determined that the dye and the dyed silk fabric are respectively the gardenia yellow plant dye and its dyed silk fabric. At present, many textile colleges and universities have established relatively complete database of vegetable dyes and comprehensive vegetable dye color cards. However, there are certain deficiencies in the relevant standards of plant dyeing in every link in the current market, and consumers have insufficient awareness of them and cannot verify the conformity of products. Therefore, identifying the corresponding plant dyes and their dyed fabrics is a priority in the development of plant dyeing. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Progress on realistic modeling and simulation of weft knitted fabrics Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (6): 255-266.   Abstract （170）      PDF （4498KB）（246）       Knowledge map    Save Weft knitted fabrics, as an important type of textile, are widely applied in fashion garments, home textiles, automotive interiors, and other fields. However, traditional design and production methods suffer from inefficiency, resource waste, and discrepancies with the actual products. Conducting realistic modeling and simulation research on weft knitted fabrics not only helps accelerate product development speed but also reduces development costs and minimizes trial and error. Therefore, the development of realistic modeling and simulation techniques for weft knitted fabrics is of great significance. The technology for simulating the visual realism of weft knitted fabrics encompasses two aspects: 2D and 3D. The 2D visual simulation technology primarily focuses on the simulation of surface texture and patterns of weft knitted fabrics, accurately representing their color, texture, and lighting effects. The 3D visual simulation technology further advances on the basis of 2D simulation, accurately simulating the three-dimensional effects of weft knitted fabrics. This technology can more realistically reproduce the details and structural characteristics of weft knitted fabrics, thereby enhancing the realism of visual simulation. Another key research direction is the physical realism modeling and simulation technology of weft knitted fabrics. This technology simulates the physical characteristics of weft knitted fabrics, such as elasticity, deformation, and fluid behavior, by establishing models based on methods like spring-mass models, mesh models, yarn-level models, or finite element models. By simulating the interaction of weft yarns and the deformation of textile structures, the actual physical behavior of weft knitted fabrics can be predicted more accurately.  Due to the nonlinear and complex nature of deformation in weft knitted fabrics, although physics-based simulation methods are capable of capturing the fabric's real behavior, there are still challenges of high computational complexity and low simulation efficiency in complex scenarios. Therefore, it is a key issue in improving simulation speed to optimize simulation algorithms to reduce computational complexity while maintaining accuracy to the greatest extent possible. Currently, the development of weft knitted fabrics' realism modeling and simulation technology is progressing in several aspects. Firstly, the simulation effects will become more detailed to accurately reproduce the intricate features of weft knitted fabrics, such as textures, textile structures, and fabric shading effects. Secondly, the technology will focus more on real-time interactivity, enabling designers and users to quickly adjust and preview the visual effects of weft knitted fabrics, thus enhancing the flexibility of design and purchasing decisions. Thirdly, the simulation technology will emphasize the diversification of weft knitted fabric types, including the simulation of various materials, textures, and knitting methods. This will provide a broader range of choices and applications for different fields. Finally, the application scope of weft knitted fabrics' realism modeling and simulation technology will further diversify, providing support for innovation and development in various industries. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Effects of activating oiling agents and oiling technology on the properties of polyester high strength fibers SHI Qiang, SHI Jiaoxue, ZHENG Xiong, ZHANG Xuzhen Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (3): 155-162.   Abstract （173）      PDF （4194KB）（234）       Knowledge map    Save The activated polyester industrial yarn is a new type of industrial yarn. It can form good adhesion with rubber, PVC and other polymer matrices due to the reactive activating oiling agent attached to its surface. The original composite molding process of "spinning oiling-predipping-RFL dipping-rubber compounding" can be simplified into "activated oiling-RFL dipping-rubber compounding" because of the activated filaments. This technology can prepare polyester fabric reinforced composites with light weight, deformability, high strength, high modulus and good dimensional stability, which can be widely used in automotive industry, construction engineering and other fields. Activating oil agents play an important role in the preparation of activated polyester industrial yarns. As an important auxiliary agent to endow surface activity of polyester industrial yarns, the activating oiling agent is usually dynamically oiled through nozzles or tankers after fiber preparation. When the activating oil agent contains a humidity sensitive group, it is generally necessary to dry the oiled fibers in order to prevent excess water molecules from interfering the activation reaction after the unsealing section of the activating oiling agent. At present, there is little research on the influence of the activating oiling agent and drying treatment on the original properties of polyester industrial yarns. For this reason, three kinds of common polyester industrial yarns (general high strength GHT, high modulus low shrinkage HMLS and high strength ultra-low shrinkage SLS) were chosen as the raw materials. The yarns were treated with activating oil agents, and dried at room temperature or 75 ℃. The effects of activating oil agents and drying conditions on the linear density, mechanical properties, thermal shrinkage properties, sonic orientation and crystallinity of polyester industrial yarns were thus investigated. The experimental results show that the linear density and crystallinity of the three polyester industrial yarns increase slightly after drying treatment, while the mechanical properties, thermal shrinkage properties, sonic orientation factor and sonic modulus all decrease, especially for the Young's modulus of HMLS. After oiling treatment, the linear density of the three yarns increases, but the breaking strength, Young's modulus and thermal shrinkage decrease, and the elongation at break and crystallinity have little change. The sonic orientation factor and sonic modulus of GHT and HMLS are higher after oil treatment. Compared with the other two yarns, SLS after being oiled and dried at 75 ℃ has less mechanical strength and modulus loss, greater reduction in thermal shrinkage ratio, better dimensional stability, and higher crystallinity, which indicates that SLS is more suitable for activation modification among polyester industrial yarns. In this paper, the effects of activating oil agents and different drying conditions on the performance of GHT, HMLS and SLS polyester industrial yarns provide a new idea for the selection of polyester industrial yarns and the activation of polyester industrial yarn treatment process, and also provide a reference for the subsequent application of enhanced composite materials for polyester industrial yarns.  Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Thought and practice on the high-quality development of the modern textile industry in Zhejiang province lad by group standards YE Xiangyu, LIU Furong, CONG Mingfang, LIANG Huifang, YUAN Haomin, LOU Caiying Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (6): 110-116.   Abstract （176）      PDF （1575KB）（233）       Knowledge map    Save Group standards refer to the voluntary adoption of social organizations established by law to meet the needs of market and innovation. The problems of single supply system, formulation cycle and slow update of national and industry standards in the textile industry cannot meet the rapid development of the industry and market. Group standards have become an important starting point for promoting standardization reform and innovation in China. The textile industry is one of the pillar industries in Zhejiang province and the "block regional economy" has significant characteristics and comprehensive advantages of the industrial chain, while the textile industry is large but not strong. In particular, there is a problem that the standardized discourse power does not match the industry status. Promoting the brand building and industry voice of Zhejiang textile industry with high-quality group standards is of great significance for Zhejiang to build an advanced textile manufacturing base, promote regional economic development and achieve common prosperity. The representative standardized social groups in the textile field in Zhejiang province are mainly Zhejiang Brand Construction Federation and Zhejiang Textile Engineering Society. Until early 2023, more than 200 standards had been developed for textile "Defined Quality Zhejiang Made", involving the whole industrial chain of chemical fiber, yarn, clothing and production equipment. Zhejiang Textile Standard (ZFB) has released items. During the epidemic period, it took the lead in the national release of T/ZFB 0004－2020 "Children's Mask" standard. On the night of the release, it ranked the top three in Sina Weibo trending topics, with more than 170 million people reading it. Shanghai, Shandong, Guangdong, Jiangsu and other testing institutions have expanded their items and it has great influence. Through the examples and analysis of group standards to promote the high-quality development of the industry, this study systematically expounds the thinking and practical results of standards supporting and leading the modern textile industry chain "functional fashion, green ecology and intelligent manufacturing". First, at the beginning of its establishment, the group standard organization clarified the field and direction of standard formulation, positioned social groups with high-quality requirements, and tailored the standardization development path for first-class enterprises and first-class products. Second, using the advantages of regional aggregation and integrating resources to build an industrial chain and regional standard cooperation network are conducive to the growth of group standard participants and the formation of brand effect. Third, the organizational structure of group standards with inherent flexibility and flexibility can make it constantly fine-tune the field and direction of standard formulation according to technological development and external environment, accurately grasp the development trend of new technologies, and lead the development of group standards in this field. Fourth, culture is the activity mode and product of human transformation of society. Standardization, as a kind of human practice, is an integral part of culture. The two influence and support each other. Introducing culture into standardization is an important way to explore and develop group standards. By focusing on the active planning and layout of Zhejiang's high-quality textile quality standard chain, we will form a "three-step" systematic improvement of the industry with standards, brand quality, and quality promotion. With the breakthrough of advanced standards at each point of the system framework, a modern textile standard system with Zhejiang characteristics will be constructed to help Zhejiang build a national and even international modern textile industry benchmark. The combination of high-quality products and group standards will lead the modern textile industry in Zhejiang to achieve high-quality development. It is suggested to improve the level of standardization from the aspects of introducing support policies, strengthening team building, and integrating multi-sectoral collaboration, so as to better play the role of textile standardization, and at the same time promote the improvement of the group management system, and jointly promote the high-quality development of modern textile group standards in Zhejiang province. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Review of commonly used antibacterial finishing agents for textiles LU Jiayu, CAI Guoqiang, GAO Zongchun, SONG Jiangxiao, ZHANG Yan, QI dongming, Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (3): 251-262.   Abstract （187）      PDF （1198KB）（230）       Knowledge map    Save Textiles are widely used in many fields, such as clothing, domestic decoration and industrial use. They not only provide a place for the grouth and reproduction of various microorganisms, but also become an important transmission route of some infectious diseases due to their reusable characteristics. In recent years, considering the complex and severe global environmental epidemic and the frequent occurrence of various infectious diseases, the use of antibacterial agents on textiles is an important way to improve their antibacterial and bacteriological properties and cut off or slow down the spread of pathogens. Therefore, the functional characteristics and development trend of various antibacterial agents commonly used in textiles have attracted much attention. This paper firstly introduces the inorganic, organic and natural antibacterial agents which are widely used in textiles. And the types, characteristics, mechanism of action and antibacterial effect of these compounds are described respectively. Inorganic antibacterial agents are the most widely used antibacterial agents. Nano silver and nano gold as typical antibacterial agents of metal nanoparticles, have high surface energy. They generally destroy the cell structure of bacteria or affect their metabolism by acting with the cell membrane of bacteria. Although they have good antibacterial effects, they are easy to agglomerate and leach from the textile. The antibacterial effect of metal oxides, such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and magnesium oxide, is next only to that of metal nanoparticles. There are three main antibacterial mechanisms, such as active oxygen generation through photocatalysis, metal ion action and cell mechanical damage. Carbon nanomaterials have also been studied in the field of antibacterial. It is believed that graphene, carbon nanotubes and graphene oxide can cause physical damage to bacterial cell membrane or cell distortion through contact and interaction with bacteria by their physical structure and excellent mechanical strength, and thus producing antibacterial effects. Organic antibacterial agent is the earliest applied antibacterial agent . They are much easier to prepare and possess a broad spectrum of antibacterial properties, mainly including quaternary ammonium salts, halide amines, triclosan and so on. They kill the bacteria mainly through the chemical bond force, such as electrostatic attraction, van der Waals force, hydrogen bond and so on. Halide amines are considered to be the most effective organic antibacterial agents, which can be cyclically sterilized by artificial chlorination. Although organic antimicrobials have broad-spectrum antibacterial properties, they may be toxic to the environment and human cells. Natural antibacterial agents such as curcumin, chitosan, plant polysaccharides,possess biocompatibility and biodegradability. And they have been paid more and more attention in the antibacterial finishing of textiles, one of the most familiar is chitosan. The amino group on chitosan makes it carry a positive charge, which can be combined with the electrostatic interaction between the bacterial cell membrane and change the permeability of the cell membrane, resulting in cytoplasmic outflow and cell death. But at present, the overall efficiency of natural antibacterial agents is not effectively enough, and the range of use is relatively not extensive. In this paper, two methods of antibacterial finishing of textiles are summarized. One is to prepare antibacterial fiber by directly adding antibacterial agent to spinning liquid seed in the spinning process. The second is the functional finishing method using antibacterial agent on the fabric surface; At last, the paper summarizes three methods of testing textile properties, such as bacteriostatic zone method, absorption method and oscillation method. At present, problems such as low antibacterial efficiency, poor antibacterial spectrum and insufficient durability need to be solved by antimicrobial agents in textile finishing. At the same time, the problem of poor sensitivity after finishing by antibacterial agents can not be ignored. With the upgrading of  use demand and the enhancement of safety and environmental protection awareness, the construction of durable and effective antibacterial coating on textile surface, and study of antibacterial agent type, structure and textile compound antibacterial effect, interface performance and wear evaluation, have become important development directions of antibacterial textile research in the future. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Morphological structure regulation mechanism of the chenille yarn and its spinning process design LIN Wei, XUE Yuan, JIN Shulan, LUO Jun, LIU Qunhao Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (3): 36-44.   Abstract （126）      PDF （3757KB）（230）       Knowledge map    Save The morphological and structural parameters of the chenille yarn include the linear density of the chenille yarn, the arrangement density of the decorative yarn, the diameter of the chenille yarn and the twist of the chenille yarn. In order to explore the regulation mechanism of the chenille yarn′s morphological structure, the linear speed of the former roller, the winding speed of the decorative yarn and the width of the spacer were taken as design parameters. Based on the chenille spinning machine, the spinning technology was studied to change the arrangement density and the width of chenille yarn ornaments, and to realize the control of chenille yarn shape structure. The chenille yarn of different specifications is designed and spun. The results show that by changing the linear speed of the front roller and the winding speed of the decorative yarn, the arrangement density of the decorative yarn can be continuously changed when the same chenille yarn is spun, showing different morphological structures. Among them, when the linear speed of the front roller is changed, the arrangement density ratio of the decorative yarn in the same chenille yarn can reach up to 3.3 times, and when the winding speed of the decorative yarn is changed, the arrangement density ratio of the decorative yarn in the same chenille yarn can reach 4 times. By changing the width of the spacer, chenille yarns of different diameters and widths can be spun. The regulation mechanism of chenille yarn's morphological and structural parameters was studied, and the spinning process of chenille yarn was broadened to improve the market competitiveness of chenille products. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Continuous salt-free pad dyeing process to improve the fibrillation of Lyocell fibers TANG Qi, HE Yi, ZHENG Jinhuan, WANG Chenglong, WANG Zhicheng, CHAI Liqin Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (6): 9-16.   Abstract （185）      PDF （2793KB）（212）       Knowledge map    Save Lyocell fibers are regenerated cellulose fibers. In addition to the advantages of hygroscopic property, good luster and comfortable wearing, Lyocell fibers also have better wet and dry strength than other regenerated cellulose fibers. However, Lyocell fibers are prone to fibrination, which limits their application in textile applications. The reactive dye is one of the most commonly used dyes for cellulose fiber dyeing, with advantages of simple application, cheap price and bright color, but in the process of immersion dyeing, to promote reactive dye dyeing, a large number of inorganic salts are often added in the dyeing solution. Therefore, there are high energy consumption, complex and variable dyeing wastewater composition, deep color, alkaline and expensive treatment costs and many other drawbacks. In this paper, the continuous salt-free rolling dyeing process of Lyocell fiber fabrics with reactive dyes was systematically studied, which not only improved the dyeing property and reduced the emission of inorganic salts, but also improved the fibrillation degree of Lyocell fibers and effectively improved the quality of Tencel fabrics. The effects of dyeing and fixing process and formula (baking temperature, baking time, dipping times, dosage of alkali and urea) on dyeing properties (K/S value and fixing rate) of fabrics were discussed. The dyeing properties and fibrination degree of fabrics were compared with those of traditional dyeing process. The results show that the optimized rolling, baking and dyeing formula and process of the Lyocell fabric require alkali of 25 g/L, urea of 60 g/L, and a baking time of 2 min at 160℃ after twice dipping and twice padding. The three dyes of Br Red CA, Br Yellow CA and Blue CA have good dyeing effect, and the color fixing rates are 76.98%, 67.48%, 77.15%, and K/S values are 21.87, 10.87, 15.85, respectively. Compared with the traditional immersion dyeing process, the continuous salt-free rolling dyeing can obtain higher dyeing depth , and the K/S values of the three dyes are increased by 28.10%, 5.23% and 6.20%, respectively. The maximum absorption wavelength of the same dye is the same under rolling, baking and immersion dyeing, indicating that pad dyeing does not change the color light of the fabric. The L* value of the pad dyeing fabric is generally lower than that of the immersion dyeing fabric, indicating that the color of the Lyocell fabric dyed by the former will be darker under the condition of the same amount of dyes. The dry rubbing fastness of the three dyes is higher than that of the wet rubbing fastness, reaching grade 5, while the wet rubbing fastness is one or two grades lower. Both of them have good soap color fastness, generally at grade 4-5 or above. The surface fibril of Lyocell fibers after continuous salt-free rolling dyeing is less than that of immersion dyed fabrics, and the fibrillarization degree of the fabric is weaker and the surface is smoother. Continuous salt-free rolling dyeing of Lyocell fibers can obtain good dyeing effect, reduce energy consumption and pollutant emission in the dyeing process, which will be conducive to clean dyeing of cellulose textiles, and promote the sustainable development of the whole dyeing process. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress of virtual clothing under the background of metaverse GU Shanqia, b, HU Lianxina, b, WANG Zefenga, b, CHEN Xua, LOU Jiongnana, b, LIU Qiloga, b, ZHANG Gegea, b Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (3): 129-140.   Abstract （649）      PDF （2359KB）（207）       Knowledge map    Save Virtual clothing is a virtual reality application based on computer technology. Its background and purpose are to provide people with a new fashion experience. With the rapid development of virtual reality technology, virtual clothing has begun to show more and more application scenarios, such as virtual fitting and metaverse. Virtual clothing can not only provide consumers with a better shopping experience, but also reduce the cost of the brand and reduce environmental pollution. Therefore, there are great potential and development space for the research and application of virtual clothing . The research of virtual clothing began in the 1980s. Early studies mainly focused on physical simulation technology of cloth. For example, in 1986, WEIL proposed a method based on cloth synthesis. Subsequently, TERZOPOULOS et al. extended it to elastic deformation and inelastic deformation, such as the elastic deformation model proposed in 1987 and the inelastic deformation model concerning viscoelasticity, plasticity and fracture proposed in 1988. Researchers are committed to improving the realism and fidelity of virtual clothing, and effectively reducing the amount of calculation and simulation complexity.  With the continuous advancement of technology, the research of virtual clothing has gradually shifted to application. Aiming at the bottleneck problem of virtual fitting, many studies have focused on optimizing the fitting process. For example, KOO et al. proposed the problem of semi-drag skirt cutting angle in 2009, while WANG and LIU developed a virtual fitting platform based on CLO3D in 2020. In the context of the metaverse, the research of virtual fashion is increasingly focused on the integration of cutting-edge technologies such as artificial intelligence and blockchain, like artificial intelligence-based textile feature modeling, and probability distribution model of virtual try-on experience. In addition, with the development of blockchain technology, the application of non-homogeneous tokens (NFT) in the field of virtual fashion has also begun to receive attention. For the display of virtual fashion, virtual try-on systems based on technologies such as augmented reality (AR) and virtual reality (VR) in existing research have broad application prospects. Virtual clothing is always committed to providing a new fashion experience. In the past few decades, researchers have made a lot of progress from physical simulation to the application of metaverse. In the future, virtual clothing will continue to grow and develop, and will be applied in more markets and application scenarios. At the same time, the emergence of various emerging technologies will also bring new opportunities and challenges to the development of virtual clothing. Therefore, researchers need to continue to pay attention to the development trends and needs of the virtual clothing field, and propose more innovative solutions to promote the rapid development of virtual clothing technology. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress of carbon fiber high-temperature resistant sizing agent WANG Nanaa, HUANG Liqiana, XU Jinyunb, ZHOU Cuna, Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (3): 237-250.   Abstract （311）      PDF （1467KB）（203）       Knowledge map    Save In the preparation process of carbon fiber, sizing is an indispensable process, its function is to form a uniform layer of organic polymer thin layer on the surface of carbon fiber, protect the surface activity of carbon fiber, enhance the wettability, reactivity, adhesion of carbon fiber surface, etc., which is conducive to improving the bonding performance between fiber and resin matrix, and enhancing the comprehensive performance of composite products. The sizing agent is generally composed of polymer resin as the main body, with various surfactants and additives. Mainly divided into three categories: solvent-based sizing agent, emulsion-type sizing agent and water-soluble sizing agent, water-soluble sizing agent has become the mainstream of carbon fiber and its composite material research and development because of its storage stability, good safety and low environmental pollution. In recent years, China's carbon fiber industry has shown explosive development, and the development and application of polymer-based carbon fiber composites in frontier fields such as aerospace, high-speed rail, new energy vehicles and fuel cells have developed rapidly, which has put forward higher requirements for the development of high-performance carbon fiber composites. The decomposition temperature of conventional sizing agent is about 200 °C, which is easy to thermally decompose under the conditions of high-temperature processing and molding process of high-temperature resistant and high-performance resin, resulting in local defects in the interface layer of the material and affecting the overall performance of the composite material. In order not to affect the high temperature resistance of the composite material, it is necessary to develop a high temperature resistant sizing agent that matches the high temperature resistance of the resin matrix. Based on the relevant literature in recent years, it can be seen that the high temperature resistance of the sizing agent is mainly achieved by the high temperature resistance of the main resin of the film former, physical and chemical modification such as blending and copolymerization, or the performance optimization of the hybrid and sizing agent formula of nanomaterials. In this paper, the research progress of high-temperature resistant carbon fiber sizing agents in recent years is reviewed, and the traditional thermosetting resins and rapidly developing high-temperature thermoplastic resins and their modified products are classified and summarized as various types of sizing agents with their modified products as the main components, focusing on their modification methods, especially water-based modification methods, and analyzing the application properties of various sizing agents, such as water solubility, high temperature resistance, surface properties and its influence on the mechanical properties of composite materials. From the perspective of industrial application, it is proposed that in addition to the research on hot spot properties and preparation methods, carbon fiber sizing should also pay attention to the research on the overall application of sizing agent, such as the stability, wettability, particle size distribution of sizing emulsion, the surface interface properties and overall mechanical properties of carbon fiber and composite materials after sizing. Finally, according to the development status of carbon fiber sizing agent and the performance requirements of advanced high temperature resistant resin-based carbon fiber composites, the development of high temperature resistant waterborne carbon fiber sizing agent is prospected. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation and application properties of silicon oil emulsion stabilized with nanoparticles XIONG Chun Xian, ZHANG Yun Ju, WENG Yan Fang, Yu Jian Hua, Liu Zuo Ping, Zhang Jian She Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (6): 181-187.   Abstract （145）      PDF （1316KB）（202）       Knowledge map    Save Silicone oil is widely used in textile, leather, paint and other industries. In the textile industry, silicone oil is mainly used in the finishing of textiles, giving fabrics soft, smooth, fluffy and other feel. In printing and dyeing processing, it is often necessary to use silicone oil in the form of emulsion. Taking the common amino silicone oil as an example, on the one hand, soft finishing will bring smooth and soft feel to the fabric, but also make the fabric appear serious slipping, affecting the service life of the fabric; On the other hand, due to its high relative molecular weight and high viscosity characteristics, the dispersion stability of the emulsion is poor. In this paper, the copolymer emulsion particles of isooctyl acrylate (EHA) and methyl methacrylate (MMA) were prepared by semi-continuous seed emulsion polymerization and used as Pickering particles. Pickering silicone oil emulsion stabilized with nanoparticles and emulsifier was prepared to improve the stability of the emulsion and reduce the amount of emulsifier. The resulting emulsion was used in fabric finishing. The effects of Pickering silicone oil emulsion and emulsifier stabilized silicone oil emulsion on the chemical oxygen demand (COD) and the properties (feel, stitch, etc.) of finished fabrics were investigated. Firstly, the hydrophilicity of Pickering granule latex was evaluated by testing the water contact Angle of the film. The results are shown in the bar chart. The contact Angle test shows that the water contact angles of PEHA, P(EHA-MMA) and PMMA are 88.1°, 88.5° and 89.6° respectively, which are all close to 90°. According to the free energy formula of all three kinds of spherical particles on the "oil/water" interface, they can be adsorbed on the "silicone oil/water" interface to form a stable adsorption layer. Gives Pickering silicone oil emulsion high dispersion stability. In order to obtain a stable emulsion, when the emulsifier is stabilized alone, the amount of emulsifier is as high as 24% of the mass of silicone oil (Table 2). It can be seen from Table 2 that the silicone oil emulsion can be stabilized when only 8% emulsifier and 6% nanoparticles are used in the cooperative stabilization system, indicating that the Pickering emulsion system has a high stabilization efficiency The emulsification system also has significant influence on the COD value of the working liquid before and after finishing and the feel and stitch property of the finished fabric. When emulsifier is used alone to stabilize the emulsion, the COD value in the finished residue increases sharply with the increase of the emulsifier dosage. Studies have shown that the method of increasing the amount of emulsifier to improve the dispersion stability of the emulsion will lead to a large amount of silicone oil remaining in the residual liquid, which will not only cause the waste of additives and the burden of sewage treatment, but also lead to the deterioration of the feel of the finished fabric (Table 3). By replacing the emulsifier stabilization system with the Pickering emulsion system, the surface friction coefficient of the fabric is lower, the feel rating is 4-5, and the COD value in the finished residue is lower. P (EHA-MMA) nanoparticles not only guarantee the feel of the finished fabric (Table 3), but also make the fabric have good skid resistance. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Numerical analysis of the effects of interface bonding properties of backplates on the ballistic performance of SiC/UHMWPE composite armor  WANG Yongfeng, JIANG Peiqing, ZHANG Bo, CAI Jundong, ZHANG Huapeng, Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (5): 1-11.   Abstract （245）      PDF （5627KB）（199）       Knowledge map    Save Research on ceramic/fiber-reinforced composite armor has become an important direction of current research and application, and UHMWPE fiber-reinforced composites have been widely studied and applied in the field of armor protection due to their low density, high strength and excellent impact resistance. However, there are few systematic research reports on the effects of interface bonding between the plies of composite backplates on the on the ballistic protection performance of the composite armor. We take SiC/UHMWPE composite armor as the research object and use the numerical simulation analysis method to analyze and study the influence of the interface bonding of the composite backplate on the ballistic protection performance of the composite armor. Based on numerical FEM simulation analysis, Tiebreak contact was used to simulate the effects of interface bonding behavior of the UHMWPE composite backplate, and the ballistic penetration model of SiC/UHMWPE composite armor against 7.62 mm armor-piercing incendiary projectiles was established. The feasibility of the numerical simulation analysis method was proved by comparing a large number of test result data with the numerical simulation result data. On this basis, the above-mentioned numerical models were solved by using the explicit dynamic finite element analysis program LS-DYNA, the numerical simulation results were extracted by the post-processing software LS-PREPOST, and the effects of the interface bonding properties of the composite material backplate in SiC/UHMWPE composite armor on composite armor ballistic performance, ballistic limit velocity, energy absorption, and damage modes were analyzed and discussed. The research results show that with the improvement of bonding performance, the ballistic limit velocity of the SiC/UHMWPE composite armor decreases, the backface signature decreases and the time required for the projectile to stop is shortened when the composite armor is not penetrated by the projectile; the delamination is more pronounced, more composite materials are deformed and damaged in the tensile mode, and more kinetic energy of the projectile is absorbed. In the SiC/UHMWPE composite armor, the relationship between the interface bonding behavior of the composite backplate and the ballistic performance of the composite armor further reveals the importance of the interface bonding of the composite backplate for the composite armor. The results of this paper can provide  reference for the design, material selection and numerical simulation of composite armor with fiber-reinforced composites as the backplate. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Objective evaluation of pilling of woven fabrics based on deep learning WU Jun, XU Tian, YU Kun Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (1): 1-8.   Abstract （225）      PDF （5020KB）（193）       Knowledge map    Save At present, China's textile production is huge, and textile import and export trade affects the domestic economic development.Now, the most prominent problem of textiles is quality, of which fabric pilling condition is an extremely important part. The domestic assessment of pilling grade is mainly carried out by professional scientific personnel in some specific scenarios with the standard pilling samples for comparison, for which there are many limitations. First of all, the rating results may be affected by the subjective influence of the testers. Secondly, this method is time-consuming and costly, so there is a need for an objective rating system to grade the fabric pilling. In recent years, foreign scholars have began to use the computer to process some traditional images by extracting such parameters as the size, number, density, volume and other parameters of the pilling through traditional image processing methods, and such parameters can be used for fabric pilling rating. With the development of deep learning, high accuracy, convenience and other advantages are becoming increasingly prominent and they are widely used by domestic researchers. In the image field, feature extraction by convolutional neural network is effective and avoids the problem of subjective feature extraction. Therefore, we proposed a new Wide-SqueezeNet network for objective rating of fabric pilling based on deep learning. In this paper, two kinds of woven fabrics with different compositions and contents were used as samples, a ball-box pilling instrument was used to obtain different grades of pilling samples, and the fabrics were put under the light source for image acquisition by using a grayscale camera. A total of 4,376 samples of both kinds were collected. As for the network model, SqueezeNet with fewer parameters and fast training was used as the main body of the network which was innovatively designed. The network model has ten layers, but the number of parameters is small, so the expression ability of complex problems is weak. The new Wide-Fire module was formed by adding a short connection to the original Fire module and using two 3×3 small convolutions to obtain the information of the pilling feature map at different scales and fusing the features with the output of the original Fire module, while using a depth-separable convolution to replace the ordinary convolution in the network to reduce the computation to increase the training speed. A Wide-SqueezeNet network model with deep separable convolution was finally designed. After the training, the accuracy of Wide-SqueezeNet with improved Fire module is 2% higher than that of the base network, and the accuracy of Wide-SqueezeNet with deep separable convolution is increased by 0.5% and the speed is improved. The final network model is significantly more accurate than some classical classification network models. Two 3×3 convolutional kernels and one 5×5 convolutional kernel are used for training, and the results show that the accuracy of the network with two 3×3 convolutional kernels is higher, so the two 3×3 convolutions are used for feature extraction. The experimental results show that the improvements in this paper improve the accuracy of the network classification, and the model size and computational effort are basically the same compared to the original network. Finally, the reliability of the network is further verified by the feature map and heat map of the network output, which proves that Wide-SqueezeNet is reliable in the objective rating method of woven fabric pilling. The comprehensive evaluation shows that the network model proposed in this paper can meet the requirements of pilling rating in the fabric industry. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress in the preparation and application of melt-blown nonwovens LIU Chena, YANG Kailua, CHEN Mingxinga, b, WANG Xinyaa, b, ZHANG Weia, b Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (5): 116-129.   Abstract （192）      PDF （1274KB）（190）       Knowledge map    Save As the global COVID-19 epidemic is raging, nonwovens with functions such as air liquid filtration, disinfection and antibacterial properties are rapidly becoming a hot topic of attention. As a new textile material, melt-blown nonwovens have the advantages of good flexibility, high air permeability, simple manufacturing process and low cost. Compared with woven fabrics, nonwoven fabrics have shorter production process, faster speed, wider fiber selection range, and smaller minimum unit fineness. Especially in terms of porosity, the total porosity of nonwoven filter mats can reach more than 80%. In view of the advantages of melt-blown nonwoven materials, now people have been applied to air filtration, liquid filtration, medical antibacterial disinfection, intelligent electronic textiles and other fields. This paper summarized the latest research progress of melt-blown nonwovens in raw material selection, manufacturing process, structure design and application, and prospected the research and development prospects. In order to clarify the future development direction, on the basis of existing technology and problems, it is very important to sum up how to develop melt-blown nonwovens with new technology and new properties in the future. At present, there are a lot of research progress and achievements in melt-blown nonwoven materials. For example, polylactic acid (PLA) is used as raw material, and the melt-blown nonwoven materials with green environmental protection and degradable function are developed by melt-blown process. The materials can be manufactured by introducing polyethylene glycol or mixing PLA and polycaprolactone, and the toughness of the materials is better than that of pure PLA melt-blown nonwoven materials, and they can be used for air filtration and other aspects to reduce environmental pollution and resource waste. By chemical modification of polypropylene (PP) melt-blown nonwovens, PP nonwovens can obtain self-cleaning, super hydrophobic, ultra-high filtration efficiency and other functions, so as to be better used in human production and life. Microfiber nonwovens prepared by melt-blown nonwovens have the characteristics of large specific surface area, small pore size and high porosity. Therefore, compared with nonwovens made by other processes, melt-blow nonwovens have significant advantages in filter, shielding, heat insulation and oil absorption, and they can be widely used in warm keeping, filtration, oil absorption, medical health, industrial and family wiper cloth, sound insulation and other fields. One of the representative applications of filter materials is the mask, melt-blow material is the core of the mask, playing the main filtering role. At present, due to technical limitations, it is slightly difficult to innovate the equipment and process of domestic melt-blown nonwoven materials in the short term. Therefore, the innovation of melt-blown nonwovens mainly focuses on the research of raw materials. The melt-blown nonwovens in the market are basically made of PP, and the PP melt-blown nonwovens occupy almost all the share of the melt-blown market. However, the use of single material undoubtedly limits the development and application of melt-blown materials to a certain extent. The development of textile industry and textile technology has played a vital role in the evolution of human civilization. With the development of the scientific and technological level, some advantages and suitable development directions of melt-blown nonwovens materials have been found. Melt-blown nonwovens materials are developing towards multi-function, environmental protection, recyclability and better benefiting human beings. The function modification and function enhancement of melt-blown nonwovens are developing vigorously. At present, PET, PP or other composite filter media are mainly used in China, and although much attention has been paid to the application of high-performance fiber filter materials, it is still necessary to increase research and development efforts, especially in the structural design and finishing.  It is necessary to improve product performance through optimizing the product structure, so that the filter media has the advantages of high efficiency, low resistance, easy cleaning and long service life. In addition, there still lacks authoritative testing and certification bodies of high temperature-resistant filter materials in China, which restricts the entry of high-performance filter material into the high-end market to a certain extent, so it is necessary to increase the investment of testing institutions and testing equipment. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress of cellulose electrospinning and its derived nanofibers in biomedicine applications YANG Haizhen, WEI Sujie, MA Chuang, ZHOU Zelin, WANG Mengjia, FU Yuan Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (3): 212-224.   Abstract （216）      PDF （5542KB）（188）       Knowledge map    Save  Cellulose is a macromolecular polysaccharide composed of glucose, which has good biocompatibility, degradability and compatibility with other substances; Cellulose derivatives are the products of cellulose esterification or etherification, which make up for the limitations of the physical and chemical properties of cellulose, and can better meet the different needs of the medical field after modification. Therefore, cellulose and its derived nanofibers have good application prospects in tissue engineering scaffolds, wound dressings, drug delivery/delivery, antibacterial and medical devices. Cellulose is a rich renewable resource, which can inhibit the growth of saprophytic bacteria, cholic acid and anaerobic bacteria, reduce the cholesterol content in the blood, reduce the deposition of cholesterol on the blood vessel wall, and prevent arteriosclerosis. However, due to the strong hydrogen bond network between cellulose molecular chains and highly crystalline aggregation structure, it is difficult to process cellulose, and other materials are also difficult to adsorb on cellulose. With the development of electrospinning technology, the treatment steps of cellulose have been simplified, and its position in the medical field has also been improved. Nanocellulose can be matched with human skeleton, which improves the mechanical properties of the derivative antibacterial film and makes it have good antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli. In the simulated cell solution, it is highly similar to the extracellular matrix, and there is no rejection in the human body. Due to its low toxicity and excellent degradability, cellulose derivatives can control the drug delivery rate and deliver drugs to target cells in drug carriers. In recent years, nano cellulose has made great progress in the field of human motion monitoring. The research shows that three-dimensional nano cellulose in the form of aerogel can be used as a medical wearable human monitoring system to simulate the characteristics of human skin for comprehensive monitoring of the human body. The research of cellulose electrospinning and its derived nanofibers is an effective way to strengthen the short board in the biomedical field. Studies confirm that electrospun cellulose nanofibers are smaller than cells in diameter and can simulate the structure and biological function of natural extracellular matrix. How to functionalize cellulose in the biomedical field has become a research hotspot. At present, natural polymer materials are widely used in the field of biomedicine, and cellulose, as an important part of them, has great application potential. It is a research hotspot in the field of biomedicine to functionalize inanimate materials and transform them into living tissue materials to reduce the rejection of materials in the human body. Cellulose has unique advantages due to its good biocompatibility and high controllability. However, due to the hydrogen bond network structure of cellulose itself, it is difficult to dissolve cellulose. How to dissolve cellulose efficiently has been the focus of research. Therefore, it is necessary to conduct more in-depth research on the dissolution mechanism, develop a clean and efficient cellulose dissolution technology, and form cellulose derived materials through electrospinning reconstruction or blend with other materials to improve the application of cellulose nanofibers in the biomedical field. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Analysis of green standards of China′s textile and garment industry HE Chengtiana, b, DONG Tingwei, FU Chenxina, YU Tongqiana, XU Yua, YE Xiangyu, WANG Lailia, b, Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (4): 11-19.   Abstract （144）      PDF （1593KB）（186）       Knowledge map    Save In order to systematically analyze the green standards of China′s textile and garment industry, we statistically categorized the existing relevant green standards, sorted out the green evaluation indexes and compared the green index limits. The results show that the current green standards of textile and garment industry are divided into three categories of restricted standards (the norm of water intake, the discharge limit of water pollutants, and the norm of energy consumption) and five categories of encouraging standards (the water-saving enterprise evaluation, the green factory evaluation, the green-ecological product evaluation, the green industrial park evaluation and the green supply chain evaluation). The evaluation indexes in the first four categories of standards only set requirements for a certain aspect of green performance, while the latter four categories of standards are based on the multi-dimensional comprehensive evaluation of water withdrawal, energy consumption, pollutant emission and other indicators. In terms of the norm of water intake and wastewater discharge limit per unit of product, the standards for the norm of water intake and discharge standards of water pollutants have the minimum requirements in relevant standards. In terms of energy consumption limit per unit product, there is a small gap in the limit value among the standards for the norm of energy consumption, green factory evaluation standards and green-ecological product evaluation standards for similar products. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation and properties of rGO/MWCNT/PDMS composite flexible pressure sensors CHEN Ling, REN Meng, ZHANG Desuo Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (5): 22-29.   Abstract （260）      PDF （4174KB）（177）       Knowledge map    Save With the rapid development of the wearable electronic device industry all over the word, the related products have shown great commercial prospects. As the future growing trend of wearable electronic devices, flexible wearable electronics has gradually become the focus of research and application in various fields, especially in the textile field. Among them, as a key component of information interaction, the flexible pressure sensor has attracted much attention due to its broad application prospects in health detection, electronic skin, human-computer interaction, flexible touch screen and other fields. According to its sensing mechanism, flexible pressure sensors are generally divided into piezoresistive, capacitive and piezoelectric ones. In practical applications, sensitivity and stability are the key technical indicators of flexible pressure sensors. In order to develop a flexible pressure sensor with high sensitivity and excellent stability, a composite porous capacitive flexible pressure sensor was prepared in this research with polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) as the substrate, multi-wall carbon nanotubes (MWCNT) and reduced graphene oxide (rGO) as fillers. And the porous structure was formed through sugar particle template. The effects of single doping with MWCNT and composite doping with MWCNT and rGO on the sensitivity of the sensor were compared. The structure of PDMS sponge after doping in different ways and the influence of the doping concentration on the sensitivity were analyzed. The key sensing characteristics of the sensor, such as response time, hysteresis and cycle stability were tested. The feasibility of its application in intelligent wearable textiles was discussed. The results show that the blending doping with rGO can effectively improve the aggregation of MWCNT, improve the dispersible uniformity of the doped conductive medium, maintain the porous structure of PDMS sponge, and effectively improve the sensitivity of the pressure sensor. When the mass ratio of MWCNT to rGO is 1:1 and the doping concentration is 2.5%, the sensitivity of the rGO/MWCNT/PDMS composite flexible pressure sensor reaches the highest value. The sensitivity reaches 31.324 kPa-1 in the pressure range of 0~0.5 kPa, which is more than four times of the pure PDMS sponge, and more than twice of mono-doped MWCNT with the same mass ratio. At the same time, the flexible pressure sensor also shows fast response, minimal hysteresis error, good cycle stability and mechanical stability. The strain-stress curves of 300 and 500 cycles of cyclic compression at 30% deformation are basically consistent. The intelligent insole designed and prepared by using the flexible pressure sensor shows good response feedback to different foot pressures, which can be used in intelligent sports shoes as a flexible pressure sensor unit for recording and analyzing athletes' running posture data, showing a broad application prospect in intelligent wearable products. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Application and research progress of bionic design in smart textiles ZHANG Rui, ZHENG Yingyinga, DONG Zhengmeia, ZHANG Ting, SHEN Liming, WANG Jian, ZOU Zhuanyong Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (6): 226-240.   Abstract （284）      PDF （11106KB）（173）       Knowledge map    Save The textile industry in China, where both the economy and technology are rising quickly, has a new market thanks to bionic technology. The fusion of fabric and bionic technology to create electronic fabrics with various functions, such as thermal insulation, structural color generation, and superhydrophobicity, is anticipated to play a significant role in the fields of health detection, intelligent medical care, motion monitoring, and human-computer interaction in a variety of smart wearable devices. Bionic design of fiber materials is a key strategy for the textile industry to produce textiles with superior qualities. To acquire the excellent functions brought about by these unique structures for the prepared smart textiles, smart bionic textiles are primarily designed to respond to external environmental stimuli inspired by the structure and characteristics of live organisms in nature. Bionic technology has advanced significantly as a result of the ongoing advancements in intelligent technology and biological science, and it is increasingly being used in the textile sector. The most typical representatives of insulation textiles based on bionic design are polar bears and penguins, whose internal structure is showing a hollow porous structure, and this porous structure enhances their thermal insulation performance. The hollow structure of fibers traps a large amount of air to increase thermal resistance or mimics the internal structure of polar bear hair or penguin feathers to develop heterogeneous fiber fabrics with special cross-sectional shapes. Next there are down of animals such as geese and ducks, whose internal structure shows a branching structure and whose thermal insulation properties are mainly attributed to their nano-scale and the trapped air in the branching structure. An environmentally friendly structured color-generating technology has been developed as a result of China's pressing need for the development of green textiles and eco-textiles. The idea that the shimmering butterfly's wings in the Amazon River Basin produce structural color has a significant impact on how color is generated. The most typical superhydrophobic textile based on bionic design is a plant with self-cleaning function, which is represented by lotus leaf and water strider leg. There is a nanostructure on the micron structure mastoid on the surface of lotus leaf. This combination of micron structure and nanostructure is the fundamental reason for the self-cleaning function on the surface of lotus leaf. A number of researchers have produced excellent superhydrophobic fabrics mimicking the structure of lotus leaves and water strider legs. The fibers, fabrics, and textile sensors created through the fusion of bionic design and smart sensing textile materials, inspired by the structure of living organisms like spider hair, pale ears, and human skin, have great potential for advancement in the fields of protection, sports, medicine, and military. The use of bionic techniques to create textiles with a variety of purposes has grown to be a crucial component of smart textile design. These techniques are inspired by the shapes and structures of living organisms found in nature. The use of bionic smart textiles is currently expanding into the medical, aeronautical, and military industries in addition to serving people's clothing requirements. The structure and application areas of multifunctional bionic smart textiles need to be further explored, notwithstanding the impressive achievements that have been obtained by smart textiles created by using bionic technology. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation and performance of organic electrochemical transistors with covalent organic frameworks as channel materials#br# WANG Ke, JIN Dalai Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (5): 117-124.   Abstract （229）      PDF （7264KB）（173）       Knowledge map    Save While the past decade has witnessed remarkable advances in the field of organic bioelectronics, organic electrochemical transistors (OECTs) have been regarded as one of the most promising device platforms for this purpose. An OECT is a type of transistor where the source-to-drain current is electrochemically modulated by applying biases on the gate electrode. In comparison with other organic electronic devices, OECTs have several advantages, including simple device fabrication, strechability, relatively low operation voltages, and decent on-off current ratios. Accordingly, many researchers have developed various types of OECT-based bioe-lectronics with the capability of sensing DNAs, hormones, metabolites, and neurotransmitters, or of monitoring cells, tissues, or brain activities.  To understand the mechanism of OECT device operation, the mixed transport of holes/electrons and ions through an organic channel should be considered simultaneously. When an electrical bias is applied to the gate electrode, the conductivity of the organic layer is controlled by driving small cations (or anions) from the electrolyte medium to the channel layer, so as to dedope (or dope) the constituent organic conductor, resulting in the efficient modulation of source-to-drain current. In this regard, OECTs employ the whole volume of organic film as an effective channel, unlike typical organic field-effect transistors (OFETs) with the interface between semiconducting and dielectric layers functions as a major channel. From the perspective of engineering the channel microstructure, in-plane π–π stacking among the conjugated moieties, as well as well-organized out-of-plane ordering, is highly desired to facilitate both intrachain and interchain transport of charge carriers along the channel direction. Meanwhile, porosity with micro/nanoscopic voids and molecular-scale dispersion of ion-conductive moieties (e.g., polyelectrolytes or ion-conductive side chains) should be uniformly distributed throughout the organic layer to enable facile permeation of small ions into the channel layer (e.g., conjugated molecules or polymers), leading to an effective control over charge carrier density. Among a variety of soft electronic materials, poly(3,4-ethyle-nedioxythiophene) doped with poly(styrenesulfonate) (PEDOT:PSS) has been one of the most frequently used channel materials for OECTs and related bioelectronic devices, owing to its high electrical conductivity, good optical transparency, and decent biocompatibility. However, the poor stability of PEDOT:PSS in water and the occurrence of chemical cross-linking after modification make the PEDOT:PSS film dense and interfere with interchain charge transfer, resulting in a significant decrease in electron and ion mobility. Therefore, it is urgent to to develop a channel material with high stability and electron and ion mobility.                Covalent organic frameworks (COFs) are widely used in gas adsorption/separation, energy storage and conversion, catalysis and other fields due to their excellent stability, conjugated structure, and adjustable functionality. At the same time, COF is also a promising channel material for OECT. In this study, surface-initiated Schiff base-mediated aldol condensation reaction was used to successfully grow COF films in situ on silicon wafers, and its structure was characterized by XRD, FTIR, SEM, AFM, TEM, etc. The effect of COF films in OECT application was tested through device assembly, and about 100 times the switch ratio, a low threshold voltage of 0.4 V, and a field-effect mobility of 0.53 cm2/(V·s) were obtained. The results of this study have expanded the application of covalent organic framework films in the field of electronic devices. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress on wearable flexible sensors with one-dimensional structure YUE Xinyana, HONG Jianhana, b Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (2): 27-39.   Abstract （688）      PDF （5201KB）（172）       Knowledge map    Save With the advancement of technology and the growth of market demand, smart wearable technology is developing rapidly. Smart wearable electronic devices are becoming more and more popular in people's daily life including electronic skin, sports wristbands, smart watches, etc. At present, smart wearable devices are gradually developing towards flexibility, light weight and portability, and they need to meet the characteristics of softness and comfort, flexibility and lightness, and fit the human body well. Textile materials are found everywhere in people's daily life and can be classified according to their form into fibers, yarns and fabrics, subsequently utilized in various textile processing techniques to manufacture various garments and textile products. At different stages of the manufacturing of processing textiles, fibers and yarns have been defined as one-dimensional horizontal structures and fabrics as two-dimensional or three-dimensional horizontal structures. Now various methods have been proposed to endow them with conductive sensing properties to build wearable and flexible sensor devices to play an important role in fields such as sports, health care, and human-computer interaction. One-dimensional structured flexible sensors have the advantages of less integration difficulty, more excellent conformability, flexibility stretchability, and greater malleability compared to non-one-dimensional sensors, allowing for low-cost processing and continuous production. At present, the research on one-dimensional structured flexible sensors has made significant progress, including the perception of temperature, pressure, stretching and optical changes, and the monitoring of object shape, human movement posture, health status and other functions of the sensor. Some researchers have produced electronic skin, smart clothing and smart textile products by processing them with existing knitting and weaving technologies, which has shown great development potential in developing different smart products. Therefore, one-dimensional structured wearable flexible sensors need to be further studied in depth and a series of smart products such as smart textiles, smart clothing and smart wearable devices can be developed through continuous production with existing mature processing technologies. In addition, the possibility of use of one-dimensional structured flexible sensors to build functions including sensing, actuation, and communication has been proven by researchers. In the future, it will promote the advancement of scientific research in the direction of flexible circuits, fabric antennas, multifunctional sensors, etc., and it has become a research hotspot to research and develop flexible one-dimensional structured sensors and to expand the scope of their comprehensive applications. In summary, as an important branch of flexible sensor devices, wearable flexible sensors with one-dimensional structure have been favored in the fields of wearable technology, health monitoring, and smart electronic skin, and have also gradually integrated into people's daily life to provide convenience. There is no uniform testing standard for the performance of flexible electronics products, which is still a challenge for researchers in their research work. At present, it is necessary to continuously enhance and improve the functionality and practicality of the products to promote the development of wearable flexible sensors with one-dimensional structure in the field of smart wearables. The future endeavor to design one-dimensional structured sensors with high sensing efficiency, multi-modal functionality, and stable performance requires mutual cooperation among researchers in various fields of textile engineering, electronic information, and materials science to promote scientific and technological innovations, and to bring more convenience to people's life and work. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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High-temperature resistance of ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene fibers XUE Shuyun, YE Wei, WANG Zheng, XIA Pingyuan, GUAN Yongyin Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (3): 53-60.   Abstract （153）      PDF （4777KB）（170）       Knowledge map    Save Due to the unique structural characteristics of ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) fibers, fiber materials possess several excellent properties including lightweight, high strength, low temperature resistance, resistance to UV radiation, chemical corrosion resistance, high energy absorption, low dielectric constant, high electromagnetic wave transmittance, low friction coefficient, and outstanding performance in terms of impact resistance and cut resistance. The melting point of UHMWPE fibers is higher than that of ordinary polyethylene fibers at 134 ℃. However, compared to other high-performance fibers such as aramid and carbon fibers, UHMWPE fibers have poor high-temperature resistance, which limits their application range. Currently, research on the thermal stability of UHMWPE fibers in both domestic and international contexts mainly focuses on fiber spinning, low-temperature composites, and application environments. These studies are of importance in analyzing the thermodynamic properties of UHMWPE fibers. Recent studies have shown that UHMWPE fibers can be composite with thermoplastic polyurethane, polyvinyl chloride, and other resins to produce lightweight and high-strength membrane materials. However, in the process of hot-pressing composite processing, UHMWPE fibers need to withstand short-term high-temperature and high-pressure conditions. The processing environment temperature in these processes is high, reaching or exceeding the melting point of the material. As for the impact of transient high temperature in the thermal processing process on fiber structure and mechanical properties, no research reports have been found. In response to the shortcomings of low melting point and easy creep of UHMWPE fibers, the mechanical stability performance of UHMWPE fibers under different hot-pressing temperatures and times was studied under the testing conditions of composite material hot-pressing processing environment. Through instruments such as differential scanning calorimeter, thermogravimetric analyzer, scanning electron microscope, X-ray diffractometer, Fourier transform infrared spectrometer and mechanical performance tester, the thermal stability performance and microstructure of UHMWPE fibers were characterized and analyzed. The results showed that the hot-pressing temperature and time had a significant impact on the performance of UHMWPE fibers. Under hot-pressing treatment of 150 ℃ or below, the mechanical properties of UHMWPE fibers changed little with the increase of hot-pressing time; under hot-pressing treatment of 160 ℃ or above, the long-term heat treatment led to a significant decrease in the mechanical properties of UHMWPE fibers. When the yarns were treated at 160 °C for 40 s, the breaking strength was 153 N, and the strength loss was 46.50%. When the hot-pressing temperature was higher than the melting point of the fibers, their strength dropped rapidly. When they were treated at 170 ℃ for 10 s, the strength dropped to 121 N, and the strength loss reached 57.80%. The research on the effects of molding temperature and molding time during the processing of UHMWPE fibers on fiber structure, surface morphology, and mechanical properties has clarified that the temperature and time during the composite processing have a significant impact on the performance of UHMWPE fibers. Suitable composite processing techniques can promote the application of UHMWPE fibers in various fields. The research findings provide necessary references for determining the composite processing technology of UHMWPE fiber materials. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Design of electrostatic charge-induced yarn breakage sensors LÜ Jingze, DAI Ning, HU Xudong, XU Kaixin, XU Yushan Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (3): 14-20.   Abstract （161）      PDF （1934KB）（163）       Knowledge map    Save In the spinning process, yarn breakage detection, especially for fine yarns, is an essential means to improve the performance of spinning equipment. Considering the cost and factors affecting yarn tension, yarn breakage detection in the industry is mainly based on photoelectric non-contact yarn breakage detection. The actual spinning workshop has much cotton wool and dust, which is easy to cause diffuse reflection in the photoelectric detection channel and reduce the sensor's accuracy. At the same time, changes in light intensity in the workshop will also impact the signal received by the opposite photoelectric receiver. In recent years, the spinning industry's image processing related to yarn breakage detection research is also emerging. Still, with the above-mentioned photoelectric detection principle of the same shortcomings, the approach is even more demanding on the light and installation conditions and expensive, with hundreds of spindles in the spinning process being more challenging to promote. To promote the yarn breakage detection technology for yarns, especially fine yarns, in the spinning link, it is necessary to reduce the dependence of the existing yarn breakage detection methods on the working link and installation conditions, and reduce the cost of yarn breakage detection. Based on the basic principle of electrostatic inductive detection, the electrostatic charge-induced yarn breakage sensor was constructed, and its overall structure, as well as the design of critical components such as primary signal amplification module, shaping and secondary amplification module, output and display module, were theoretically analyzed and experimentally tested. Finally, the test bench of the electrostatic charge induction yarn breakage sensor was construct to test the degree of influence of the moving yarn speed and its material on the electrostatic charge induction yarn breakage sensor in combination with the mechanism of electrostatic charge induction yarn breakage sensor performance based on the electrostatic charge induction strength. On this basis, we statistically analyzed the output point voltage values of the critical module of the electrostatic charge-induced yarn breakage sensor under the simulated working spindle speeds of the spinning machine at 13,600 r/min and 15,000 r/min, as well as under the yarn breakage condition. The research found that the speed of the moving yarn and its material are the main influencing factors of the electrostatic charge-induced yarn breakage sensor. Still, the influence is much smaller than the value of the voltage deviation at the output points OUT3 and OUT2 of the back end of the key module of the electrostatic charge-induced yarn breakage sensor when the two states of the moving yarn are broken and unbroken so that this characteristic can be used for the accurate judgment of the broken connection of the yarn. The sensor seals the circuit and detection electrodes utilizing a closed aluminium case, which reduces dust and charge interference in the air, facilitates the collection of charge signals, and obtains output voltages with significant variations for identifying different types of yarns with minor charge variations. Therefore, the device has a better state detection effect for the yarn carrying static electricity in the spinning process. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Structure optimization of traditional SK type and new static mixers CHEN Xifeng, CHEN Ye Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (3): 1-11.   Abstract （199）      PDF （3571KB）（163）       Knowledge map    Save In order to improve the synthetic quality of polyacrylonitrile fibers, starting from improving the mixing uniformity of the three-strand material of synthetic polyacrylonitrile, the numerical calculation method of multiphase flow field is carried out by using CFD technology, the influence of component structure parameters and component quantity of SK type static mixer on the uniformity of the three-strand material premix in the mixer tube is discussed, and the corresponding pressure drop changes are analyzed. The results show that when the width of the mixing element is D=110 mm, the aspect ratio is L/D=1, and the component torsional angle is α=270°, the mixing efficiency is the highest. And the new static mixer is numerically simulated based on the optimized mixing element parameters, with the purpose of achieving ideal mixing uniformity, and the total length of the new mixer when meeting the requirements is about 1/2 of the length of the traditional SK static mixer. The mixing efficiency of the new static mixer is greatly improved compared to that of the traditional SK static mixer, but the pressure drop loss is also large. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress on alkali deweighting promoter for polyester fabrics CHEN Linguoa, b, ZHANG Hongjuana, b, DING Leia, b, PEI Liujuna, b, WANG Jipinga, b Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (6): 61-71.   Abstract （193）      PDF （4091KB）（160）       Knowledge map    Save Polyester fiber is currently the most widely used synthetic fiber. However, its poor moisture absorption, susceptibility to static electricity, and other issues have hindered its market prospects as a high-end textile material. Alkali reduction treatment can improve the inherent defects of polyester fiber, resulting in a soft and smooth texture, a pleasant sheen, good drapability, water retention, and other advantages. Meanwhile, this treatment makes it has the characteristics of imitated silk. Nevertheless, the traditional alkali reduction process for polyester involves excessive use of alkali, making it difficult to process. Finally, it requires a large amount of acid to neutralize. As a result, there are many problems, such as high energy consumption, serious environmental pollution, and serious damage to the fabric. Additionally, the liquid alkali is also a dangerous chemical, so safety problems should be considered. All these problems seriously restrict the sustainable development of the polyester textile industry. Therefore, reducing the amount of liquid alkali with promoters is currently the most convenient, environmentally friendly, and easily implementable improvement method in the alkali reduction technology. Currently, promoters are widely used to improve alkali utilization, reduce the environmental hazards of excessive alkali, and impart exceptional performance to fabrics. Promoters can be roughly categorized into quaternary ammonium salts, gelatin protein promoters, cationic polymers, ionic liquids, amines, alcohols, and others. Among them, quaternary ammonium salts are widely used. In terms of effectiveness, most promoters can accelerate the hydrolysis of polyester and reduce the amount of alkali required. And different promoters have different promotion mechanisms. Quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants mainly utilize positively charged quaternary ammonium ions to attack the carbonyl carbon atoms by carrying the hydroxide ions, further promoting the rapid hydrolysis of ester bonds in polyester macromolecules. Gelatin has certain surface activity, infiltration, and colloidal protection. In the process of alkali reduction, gelatin can play a role in swelling fiber and reducing surface tension. Some new alkali reduction promoters are mainly cationic polymers. They mainly adsorb more hydroxide ions through water-soluble quaternary ammonium cation groups, so as to achieve the purpose of promoting the hydrolysis of polyester. Ionic liquid is a kind of compound ionic surfactant and it can completely ionize in water. The cationic part of the ionic liquid has a long carbon chain and strong adsorption capacity for polyester. Its mechanism is similar with quaternary ammonium salts. There are some other additives that can also promote polyester hydrolysis. For example, ammonia mainly generates an amide group at one end and a hydroxyl group at the other end to destroy the polymer chain through the diffusion of amine molecules in the polymer. Alcohol can realize the purpose of surface functionalization of polyester through the exchange reaction of ester and amine.  The traditional alkali reduction treatment of polyester fiber has the following problems, such as high concentration of liquid alkali, great difficulty in processing, serious environmental pollution, and high energy consumption. All these problems seriously restrict the sustainable development of the polyester textile industry. The addition of promoters is an effective way to improve the utilization rate of alkali. The promoter can transfer and enrich the OH- in the solution on the fiber surface, and OH- is more likely to attack the carbon atoms in the carbonyl group with partial positive charge in the polyester molecule. As a result, the hydrolysis reaction of the polyester molecule becomes easy. Therefore, how to effectively use promoters to reduce the amount of liquid alkali has become a research hotspot to promote the sustainable development of polyester textiles. The development of alkali reduction promoters can be started from the following perspectives: first of all, the new promoter is synthesized to increase the function of the fabric while effectively reducing the amount of liquid alkali and retaining the advantages of liquid alkali treatment. For example, the use of gelatin protein reagents can also play a certain role in fiber repair while improving the performance of fibers. By increasing the study of the combination of accelerators to explore the mechanism, the cost saving treatment formula with the best effect was obtained. The development of alkali reduction technology can also be applied to the alkali reduction dyeing one-bath system of polyester fabrics, which can reduce energy consumption and be more environmentally friendly and efficient. The use of promoters to reduce the alkali concentration provides more possibilities for the pH application range of some alkali-resistant disperse dyes, and development space for alkaline dyeing technology. This provides reference for promoting the industrialization development of polyester fabric alkali reduction technology and realizing the sustainable development of the textile printing and dyeing industry. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation and properties of zinc oxide antibacterial polyester ZHANG Rui, LI Yuanyuan, ZHOU Panfei, ZHANG Shunhua Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (3): 113-120.   Abstract （131）      PDF （2842KB）（159）       Knowledge map    Save With the development of economy and the improvement of living standards, people have more and more requirements on the functionality of textiles, and the concept of health and safety has become a common understanding. Polyethylene terephthalate (PET) has good spunability and mechanical properties, and is widely used in household textile, medical textile, industrial textile and other fields. Therefore, more and polyester has been paid to the antibacterial function of polyester.  For the more convenient and effective one-step preparation of antibacterial modified polyester with better dispersion effect of antibacterial agent, nano-zno was selected as the antibacterial agent in this paper, and nano-zno was dispersed in ethylene glycol (EG) solution to make ZnO-EG dispersion solution. Then the monomer purified terephthalic acid (PTA), EG and ZnO-EG dispersion were esterified and condensed by in situ polymerization to obtain antimicrobial modified polyester. The polymerization process of antibacterial modified polyester was analyzed, and the particle size distribution of ZnO-EG dispersion was characterized by laser particle size analyzer. The slice morphology and melting point of the antibacterial modified polyester were analyzed by polarizing microscope and DSC, and the color value, characteristic viscosity, carboxyl terminal content, diethylene glycol content and antibacterial properties of the antibacterial modified polyester were determined. The results show that the particle size of the nano-zno dispersion prepared by wet grinding is obviously smaller than that prepared by magnetic stirring, and with the increase of the wet grinding time, the particle size of the dispersion decreases first and then increases. When the ZnO mass fraction of the antibacterial polyester is 0.5% and the intrinsic viscosity is 0.687 dL/g, the nano-zno antibacterial agents do not agglomerate in the polyester and form agglomerative particles, which are uniformly dispersed in the polyester slices. With the addition of nano-zno antibacterial agents, the color value of the antibacterial polyester tends to bright yellow-green, and the melting point moves to high temperature. The antibacterial polyester has obvious antibacterial effect on Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus and Candida albicans, with the inhibition rates being 92%, 99% and 78%, respectively. In this paper, antibacterial modified polyester is prepared by in-situ polymerization, and the particle size distribution of ZnO-EG dispersion and the polymerization process of antibacterial modified polyester are studied, which provides a new idea for the optimization of synthesis process of antibacterial modified polyester. The quality of the antibacterial modified polyester is analyzed, which provides some reference for the future application in the field of plastic fibers. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Silk fabric modified by quaternary ammonium salt/amphoteric chitosan and its synergistic effect YANG Sheng, XU Zhaomei, MA Tingfang, FU Feiya, LIU Xiangdong, YAO Juming Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (6): 17-27.   Abstract （158）      PDF （7078KB）（154）       Knowledge map    Save With excellent wearability, biocompatibility and biodegradability, silk is widely used in textile, biomedicine, food and other fields. Chemical modification is an important technical means to further expand the use of silk. However, the protein properties of silk have high requirements on chemical raw materials and reaction paths, so it is difficult for traditional single substance modification methods to achieve green and efficient modification at the same time. In this paper, a new method of tandem chemical modification of real silk fabric (SF) using water-soluble carboxylated chitosan (CMC) and 2,3-epoxy-propyl trimethyl ammonium chloride (GTA) is proposed for the first time. The morphology, structure and physicochemical properties of SF, SF/CMC, SF/GTA and SF/CMC/GTA samples were compared and analyzed by means of scanning electron microscopy, fourier transform infrared, X-ray diffraction, X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy, tensile test and thermogravimetric analysis. The results show that although the amide bond formed by CMC reaction in infrared spectroscopy coincides with SF characteristic peak, the shift of carbonyl C binding energy and the increase of C-N peak area in X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy prove that the tandem chemical modification can be successfully implemented at 80 ℃ in aqueous solvent. The introduction of CMC provides more reaction sites for GTA, and a large number of hydroxyl groups forming after the reaction of GTA can form rich hydrogen bonds with CMC to help it stabilize. With the chemical modification in tandem, a small amount of fiber appeared on the surface of the fabric fiber. X-ray diffraction spectra also showed that the modification reaction was mainly in the amorphous region of the surface, and had little effect on the SF crystal structure. Compared with SF, the tensile strength (62.7 MPa) and thermal decomposition temperature (327 ℃) of SF/CMC/GTA have no obvious changes, which shows that the series modification method used in this work is mild and effective, and the modified fabric still maintains good mechanical properties and thermal stability. The difference is that compared with SF, the permeability and water absorption of SF/CMC/GTA increased significantly, reaching 272 g·m-2·d-1 and 326%, respectively, which should be related to the strong hydrophilic groups introduced by CMC and GTA. In addition, the Zeta potential of SF/CMC/GTA (1.5 mV) was significantly increased compared with that of SF (-26.3 mV), proving the high efficiency of tandem modification. Compared with the single modified sample SF/CMC and SF/GTA, the tandem-modified sample SF/CMC/GTA had a quite high antibacterial rate (above 99.9%) both against S. aureus and E. coli. The dyeing experiment showed that the dyeing rate of SF/CMC/GTA was 55 times higher than that of SF, which is expected to be applied in the field of non-washing printing and dyeing. This paper provides scientific data for the application of tandem reaction in functional modification of real silk fabrics and a new technical path for green silk dyeing and finishing. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation of Bifunctional Au@Cu2O binary heterojunctions with photothermal effect and photocatalysis for clean water generation WANG Cheng, DONG Xinxin, ZHANG Hua, ZHENG Min Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (6): 43-50.   Abstract （163）      PDF （6136KB）（152）       Knowledge map    Save The scarcity of fresh water resources has become a major threat to human survival and development. It is critical to maintain social stability and development by addressing the scarcity of fresh water resources. Solar-driven interfacial evaporation technology can use solar energy directly to purify wastewater and produce clean water without relying on fossil fuels. It has received widespread attention due to its low cost, sustainability, and environmental friendliness. However, when solar steam is generated during the purification process, non-volatile impurities may remain and accumulate, causing more serious pollution. Pollutants can be effectively degraded by incorporating a photocatalytic system. The bifunctional fabric was combined with the photo-thermal photocatalytic bifunctional cuprous oxide (Cu2O)-based heterojunction material in this paper to produce clean water. At the moment, research on the production of clean water via interfacial evaporation is focused on how to improve the evaporation rate and the water transport rate. There hasn't been much research into how to remove pollutants while evaporating water. The majority of related research focuses solely on stacking two distinct materials, photothermal and photocatalytic, on the same substrate to achieve dual functions. Because it can be excited by visible light, Cu2O is widely used in photocatalysis. Nevertheless, photo-corrosion affects the photoactivity of Cu2O, limiting its exclusive use. To improve its photocatalytic activity, Cu2O is usually combined with metal. Au is a precious metal that is frequently used to improve the catalytic activity of Cu2O, but its photothermal properties are rarely used. The Au@Cu2O heterostructure was created in the experiment by using gold rods (Au NRs) with near infrared absorption as the core. The thickness of the Cu2O shell was changed by adjusting the Au/Cu ratio, resulting in a successful Au@Cu2O near infrared response. A bifunctional material with photothermal and photocatalytic properties was designed and prepared successfully, and its application in water purification was investigated by combining it with cotton fabrics. Under the irradiation of a simulated solar source with a power density of 0.1 W/cm2, the evaporation rate of the Au@Cu2O-modified cotton fabric is 1.25 kg/(m2·h), the conversion efficiency of sunlight to steam is 77.4%. After 180 minutes of visible light irradiation, the degradation rate of methyl orange reaches 89.2%. Water scarcity has sparked widespread concern as a global issue. Using solar-driven interfacial evaporation to produce clean water not only corresponds to the current state of water scarcity, but also makes use of solar energy, an inexhaustible source of energy. Photothermal photocatalytic bifunctional materials can decompose pollutants in water while allowing for water evaporation, which is a gap in current research but has significant application potential. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Topological structure chain extension modification of polyethylene terephthalate (PET) and its rheological behavior and foaming properties NAN Jingwen, ZHOU Jin, HUANG Wenjian, WANG Xiuhua, ZHANG Xuzhen Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (5): 86-95.   Abstract （200）      PDF （5344KB）（150）       Knowledge map    Save Polyethylene terephthalate (PET) is widely used in fibers, bottle sheets and films because of its excellent physical properties. It is also one of limited materials have been realized industrial recyclization. Therefore, the development of foaming PET is of great significance to solve the pollution of express packaging waste. However, conventional PET has low molecular weight and straight chain, and its melt viscosity and elasticity are poor. It is difficult to form foam with complete cellular structure and good foaming properties.  In this paper, based on the topological branching chain extension mechanism of PET, the topological chain extension modification of PET was carried out by reactive melt extrusion with multi-functional epoxy modifier and multi-functional anhydride modifier. PET was modified by tetraglycidyl diamino diphenyl methane (TGDDM), and the modification effect was compared with that of pyromellitic dianhydride (PMDA). The reaction ability of TGDDM to PET was analyzed. The rheological properties of PET were improved by extrusion modification with different amounts of chain extender PMDA/TGDDM. The basic performance, thermal properties and rheological properties of the modified PET were compared with those modified with single chain extender. The optimized TGDDM-modified PET, PMDA-modified PET and TGDDM/PMDA-modified PET with superior rheological properties were used as the raw materials, chemical foaming method, foamed via chemical foaming method. The cell morphology of the foamed samples was observed by scanning electron microscope to determine the internal relationship between foaming properties and rheological properties. The effects of foaming conditions on cell parameters were also studied through adjusting foaming temperatures, foaming times and foaming agent contents. The results show that both two chain extenders have successfully modified PET. Compared that with PMDA, PET modified by TGDDM has higher complex viscosity, higher storage moduli and lower loss factor. When two chain extenders cooperate to modify PET, the reaction rate is obviously accelerated, and the complex viscosity and storage modulus are even higher. When the mass fraction of PMDA is 1.0%, or the mass fraction of TGDDM is 0.7%, the gel structure begins to generate in the modified PET. The results of foaming experiment show that the foaming properties of PET are improved after modification. The foaming properties of T1.0P0 with superior rheological properties and more microgel are outstanding, in which the foaming ratio is 3.8, the average cell diameter is 98 μm, and the foaming density is 2.49×107 cell/cm3.  Compared with the unmodified PET, the modified PET has higher molecular weight and improved melt viscoelasticity as well as foaming properties. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress on fabric-based solar evaporators HE Hongbei, ZHU Qingkai, REN Haitao Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (6): 267-276.   Abstract （174）      PDF （2523KB）（150）       Knowledge map    Save With the increasing shortage of freshwater resources, using seawater desalination to produce freshwater is a broaden incremental technology for achieving water resource utilization. The current main methods of seawater desalination include reverse osmosis membrane method and distillation method. Compared with traditional seawater desalination technology, solar-driven water evaporation is less costly and more environmentally friendly. In recent years, low-cost solar thermal desalination has been favored by many researchers. According to the different placement methods of solar absorbers, they can be divided into two types: suspended solar absorbers and surface solar absorbers. The photothermal materials and principles of the two evaporators are not significantly different. They both absorb specific wavelengths of light and cause electromagnetic field changes through plasma resonance or electron transitions. The interaction between electromagnetic waves and substances at the water interface heats up nanoparticles. The suspended solar absorber heats the bulk water, while the surface solar absorber heats the water soaked in the evaporator. Compared with suspended solar absorbers, surface solar absorbers have more advantages. The loose porous structure of fabrics can provide efficient water transportation, and the flexibility and elasticity of the fabric structure can provide better compatibility with surface solar absorbers. It can also modify the fabric's properties to better combine with photothermal materials. In current research on solar-driven water evaporation, cotton, linen, nylon, aramid, acrylic, and nonwovens are mainly used as substrate materials, and metal nanoparticles, metal oxides, and carbon-based materials as photothermal materials. Improving the salt resistance of the evaporator can effectively maintain its evaporation rate and extend its service life. There are two ways to improve the salt resistance: increasing the hydrophilicity or hydrophobicity of the evaporator. In improving evaporation performance, it is necessary to balance heat loss, water supply, and salt crystallization. Excessive water can lead to more heat loss, and rapid water evaporation can cause salt to crystallize on the surface of the evaporator, thereby affecting photothermal performance. In order to achieve a balance between heat loss and water supply, there have been two main types of surface solar absorbers in recent years: hydrophilic bilayer structure and structure with dedicated water transport channels. The hydrophilic bilayer structure loses more heat due to wetting during use, and the water absorption rate of the water transport channels structure is higher than the evaporation rate, which does not limit evaporation and can effectively reduce heat loss. At present, the solar-driven water evaporation with the highest evaporation rate is the surface solar absorber with a bridge structure composed of Janus hydrogel and cotton fabric. The evaporation efficiency of solar-driven water evaporation is relatively low, making it impractical to provide water for households. However, a solar evaporator with a solar thermal area of 1 square meter can meet the drinking water needs of households. With the continuous improvement of solar desalination technology, it will definitely be more widely used in remote and underdeveloped areas in the future. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Environmental impact calculation and assessment of bio-based chemical fiber textiles HU Xuerui, HE Tingting , PENG Yanyan , DING Xuemei Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (4): 20-28.   Abstract （277）      PDF （1152KB）（148）       Knowledge map    Save Chemical fibers, as the most used fiber raw material for textile and apparel products, are obtained from petroleum, and the overuse of petroleum resources and excessive emission of carbon dioxide (CO2) have brought about a series of resource and environmental problems. Therefore, in order to reduce the dependence on fossil resources and to address global environmental issues and climate change, bio-based chemical fibers have become one of the raw materials of choice for future development as an alternative to petroleum-based fibers. Bio-based chemical fiber textiles are somehow considered as green fiber products in academic and industrial circles; however, there is no systematic analysis of accounting and evaluation of their environmental attributes. Therefore, this paper systematically studied 2,382 related papers between January 2010 and June 2022 using statistical measures and content analysis, finding that the majority of existing studies focus on the development and performance of bio-based chemical fiber materials, with only eight papers using the LCA method to calculate the seven types of fibers: viscose, Lyocell, modal, bio-based PET, PTT, PLA, and synthetic spider silk. Among the eight papers, 87.5% of the research literature involves one or two stages of the product life cycle, of which the boundary from raw materials (planting) to fiber manufacturing account for the highest percentage (75%), followed by fiber production to waste disposal (37.5%), without involving the whole life cycle assessment. The accounting indicators focus on the global warming potential and acidification potential, and the bio-carbon storage accounting methods are still controversial, with different calculation methods yielding diametrically opposed results. The evaluation results indicate that bio-based chemical fibers are better than petroleum-based ones in terms of resource consumption and toxicity risk, but they may also have problems such as increased water pollution, increased land use, and impact on ecosystem quality. The environmental impact of bio-based chemical fibers in the production process is not significantly different from that of traditional petroleum-based chemical fibers and is mainly influenced by their different biological sources. In general, there are large research gaps in the environmental impact accounting and evaluation of bio-based chemical textiles, and the existing research findings are not enough to prove the green attributes of bio-based chemical textiles. As for such questions as whether bio-carbon should be accounted for in bio-based chemical fibers and how to define the duration of carbon sequestration, it is suggested to determine the bio-cabron accounting method for this category according to the application areas of bio-based products. It is suggested that future life cycle assessment of bio-based chemical textiles in a broader consumer context and practical applications should be conducted on a multidimensional level. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics