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Research progress in the preparation and application of melt-blown nonwovens LIU Chena, YANG Kailua, CHEN Mingxinga, b, WANG Xinyaa, b, ZHANG Weia, b Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (5): 116-129.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20240514 Abstract （944）      PDF （1274KB）（317）       Knowledge map    Save As the global COVID-19 epidemic is raging, nonwovens with functions such as air liquid filtration, disinfection and antibacterial properties are rapidly becoming a hot topic of attention. As a new textile material, melt-blown nonwovens have the advantages of good flexibility, high air permeability, simple manufacturing process and low cost. Compared with woven fabrics, nonwoven fabrics have shorter production process, faster speed, wider fiber selection range, and smaller minimum unit fineness. Especially in terms of porosity, the total porosity of nonwoven filter mats can reach more than 80%. In view of the advantages of melt-blown nonwoven materials, now people have been applied to air filtration, liquid filtration, medical antibacterial disinfection, intelligent electronic textiles and other fields. This paper summarized the latest research progress of melt-blown nonwovens in raw material selection, manufacturing process, structure design and application, and prospected the research and development prospects. In order to clarify the future development direction, on the basis of existing technology and problems, it is very important to sum up how to develop melt-blown nonwovens with new technology and new properties in the future. At present, there are a lot of research progress and achievements in melt-blown nonwoven materials. For example, polylactic acid (PLA) is used as raw material, and the melt-blown nonwoven materials with green environmental protection and degradable function are developed by melt-blown process. The materials can be manufactured by introducing polyethylene glycol or mixing PLA and polycaprolactone, and the toughness of the materials is better than that of pure PLA melt-blown nonwoven materials, and they can be used for air filtration and other aspects to reduce environmental pollution and resource waste. By chemical modification of polypropylene (PP) melt-blown nonwovens, PP nonwovens can obtain self-cleaning, super hydrophobic, ultra-high filtration efficiency and other functions, so as to be better used in human production and life. Microfiber nonwovens prepared by melt-blown nonwovens have the characteristics of large specific surface area, small pore size and high porosity. Therefore, compared with nonwovens made by other processes, melt-blow nonwovens have significant advantages in filter, shielding, heat insulation and oil absorption, and they can be widely used in warm keeping, filtration, oil absorption, medical health, industrial and family wiper cloth, sound insulation and other fields. One of the representative applications of filter materials is the mask, melt-blow material is the core of the mask, playing the main filtering role. At present, due to technical limitations, it is slightly difficult to innovate the equipment and process of domestic melt-blown nonwoven materials in the short term. Therefore, the innovation of melt-blown nonwovens mainly focuses on the research of raw materials. The melt-blown nonwovens in the market are basically made of PP, and the PP melt-blown nonwovens occupy almost all the share of the melt-blown market. However, the use of single material undoubtedly limits the development and application of melt-blown materials to a certain extent. The development of textile industry and textile technology has played a vital role in the evolution of human civilization. With the development of the scientific and technological level, some advantages and suitable development directions of melt-blown nonwovens materials have been found. Melt-blown nonwovens materials are developing towards multi-function, environmental protection, recyclability and better benefiting human beings. The function modification and function enhancement of melt-blown nonwovens are developing vigorously. At present, PET, PP or other composite filter media are mainly used in China, and although much attention has been paid to the application of high-performance fiber filter materials, it is still necessary to increase research and development efforts, especially in the structural design and finishing.  It is necessary to improve product performance through optimizing the product structure, so that the filter media has the advantages of high efficiency, low resistance, easy cleaning and long service life. In addition, there still lacks authoritative testing and certification bodies of high temperature-resistant filter materials in China, which restricts the entry of high-performance filter material into the high-end market to a certain extent, so it is necessary to increase the investment of testing institutions and testing equipment. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress of virtual clothing under the background of metaverse GU Shanqia, HU Lianxina, WANG Zefenga, CHEN Xua, LOU Jiongnana, LIU Qiloga, ZHANG Gegea Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (3): 129-140.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20240315 Abstract （1213）      PDF （2359KB）（312）       Knowledge map    Save Virtual clothing is a virtual reality application based on computer technology. Its background and purpose are to provide people with a new fashion experience. With the rapid development of virtual reality technology, virtual clothing has begun to show more and more application scenarios, such as virtual fitting and metaverse. Virtual clothing can not only provide consumers with a better shopping experience, but also reduce the cost of the brand and reduce environmental pollution. Therefore, there are great potential and development space for the research and application of virtual clothing . The research of virtual clothing began in the 1980s. Early studies mainly focused on physical simulation technology of cloth. For example, in 1986, WEIL proposed a method based on cloth synthesis. Subsequently, TERZOPOULOS et al. extended it to elastic deformation and inelastic deformation, such as the elastic deformation model proposed in 1987 and the inelastic deformation model concerning viscoelasticity, plasticity and fracture proposed in 1988. Researchers are committed to improving the realism and fidelity of virtual clothing, and effectively reducing the amount of calculation and simulation complexity.  With the continuous advancement of technology, the research of virtual clothing has gradually shifted to application. Aiming at the bottleneck problem of virtual fitting, many studies have focused on optimizing the fitting process. For example, KOO et al. proposed the problem of semi-drag skirt cutting angle in 2009, while WANG and LIU developed a virtual fitting platform based on CLO3D in 2020. In the context of the metaverse, the research of virtual fashion is increasingly focused on the integration of cutting-edge technologies such as artificial intelligence and blockchain, like artificial intelligence-based textile feature modeling, and probability distribution model of virtual try-on experience. In addition, with the development of blockchain technology, the application of non-homogeneous tokens (NFT) in the field of virtual fashion has also begun to receive attention. For the display of virtual fashion, virtual try-on systems based on technologies such as augmented reality (AR) and virtual reality (VR) in existing research have broad application prospects. Virtual clothing is always committed to providing a new fashion experience. In the past few decades, researchers have made a lot of progress from physical simulation to the application of metaverse. In the future, virtual clothing will continue to grow and develop, and will be applied in more markets and application scenarios. At the same time, the emergence of various emerging technologies will also bring new opportunities and challenges to the development of virtual clothing. Therefore, researchers need to continue to pay attention to the development trends and needs of the virtual clothing field, and propose more innovative solutions to promote the rapid development of virtual clothing technology. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress in moisture-absorbing and quick-drying materials ZHANG Yuexuan, LIU Ya, ZHUANG Xupin, QIU Mengying Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (4): 114-124.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20240414 Abstract （502）      PDF （5191KB）（265）       Knowledge map    Save The market size of moisture-absorbing and quick-drying materials is increasing day by day. To develop moisture-absorbing and quick-drying materials that better meet market demand and expand their application fields, we analyzed moisture-absorbing and quick-drying materials from several aspects. Firstly, we made a detailed introduction to the mechanisms of moisture-absorbing and quick-drying materials, including differential capillary effect, wetting gradient structure, and biomimetic transpiration, and listed corresponding models developed in recent years. Then, we divided the common moisture-absorbing and quick-drying fibers in the market into natural fibers and chemical fibers, and stated the characteristics, advantages, disadvantages, and application scope of different fibers. Additionally, we listed the current moisture-absorbing and quick-drying standards of common countries and standard organizations, as well as the main performance grading of moisture-absorbing and quick-drying materials in China's moisture-absorbing and quick-drying standards, and listed some problems in the standards and operational plans that can be implemented. We divided moisture-absorbing and quick-drying materials into moisture-absorbing and quick-drying woven fabrics, knitted fabrics, and non-woven materials. We introduced the research achievements and development status of various materials in recent years, including: woven fabrics prepared by Tao Fengyi et al. by using viscose fibers and honeycomb microporous polyester fibers as raw materials, and changing the arrangement of fiber materials in the thickness direction of the fabric to present different moisture-absorbing effects on the inner and outer layers of the fabric. Wang Yue et al. used green and environmentally friendly Tencel and recycled polyester to design a new type of three-dimensional moisture conductive double-sided knitted fabric that accelerates the passage of gas and liquid, effectively reducing the contact tightness between the fabric and the skin, ensuring moisture absorbing and quick drying, while improving the lightness and comfort of the fabric. Finally, we summarized the existing problems and possible solutions of moisture absorption and rapid drying based on the post-processing technology. In terms of non-woven materials, in addition to arranging and combining various new environmentally friendly fibers with traditional non-woven processes such as water spunlace, needle punching, and hot air to obtain moisture-absorbing and quick-drying materials, there are various materials produced by electrospinning technology. For example, Song et al. prepared a non-woven material with a wetting gradient structure composed of hydrophobic chitosan fibers and hydrophilic adhesive fibers through water spunlace technology. When 90% of the fibers are hydrophobic and the hydrophobic layer exceeds a high thickness of 1.6mm, the material can still achieve anisotropic water penetration and has high wear resistance and environmental friendliness. We summarized and classified the moisture-absorbing and quick-drying finishing processes into plasma treatment, photochemical treatment, electrostatic spraying, and laser processing. By depositing low surface energy materials on hydrophilic fabrics, the material surface underwent oxidation, cross-linking, chemical bond breakage, etc. under sunlight or ultraviolet radiation. Under high potential, very fine droplets were sprayed from the tube to control the coating thickness. Laser processing was used to change the micro nano scale morphology and other finishing processes, which can accurately change the moisture-absorbing and quick-drying rate of the material. Finally, we explored the development potential of current moisture-absorbing and quick-drying materials. In response to the current situation of moisture-absorbing and quick-drying fibers, we proposed three problems to be solved from the perspective of fibers and two problems to be solved from the perspective of materials, and provided possible solutions. There is no complete conclusion on the study of the interaction between fibers and water molecules, the influence of the depth and quantity of irregular cross-section fiber grooves used in moisture-absorbing and quick-drying materials on differential capillary effect, and the application should shift towards the development of green and environmentally friendly fibers, as well as more research and development of natural fibers with high moisture-absorbing and quick-drying performance. In terms of materials, simple and effective methods should be developed to achieve low-cost industrial production of moisture-absorbing and quick-drying materials. In the meanwhile, various post-processing technologies that combine green environmental protection performance, good mechanical performance, and stable and efficient moisture-absorbing and quick-drying performance should be more closely combined with the preparation of moisture-absorbing and quick-drying materials. 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High-temperature resistance of ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene fibers XUE Shuyun, YE Wei, WANG Zheng, XIA Pingyuan, GUAN Yongyin Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (3): 53-60.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20240307 Abstract （577）      PDF （4777KB）（243）       Knowledge map    Save Due to the unique structural characteristics of ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) fibers, fiber materials possess several excellent properties including lightweight, high strength, low temperature resistance, resistance to UV radiation, chemical corrosion resistance, high energy absorption, low dielectric constant, high electromagnetic wave transmittance, low friction coefficient, and outstanding performance in terms of impact resistance and cut resistance. The melting point of UHMWPE fibers is higher than that of ordinary polyethylene fibers at 134 ℃. However, compared to other high-performance fibers such as aramid and carbon fibers, UHMWPE fibers have poor high-temperature resistance, which limits their application range. Currently, research on the thermal stability of UHMWPE fibers in both domestic and international contexts mainly focuses on fiber spinning, low-temperature composites, and application environments. These studies are of importance in analyzing the thermodynamic properties of UHMWPE fibers. Recent studies have shown that UHMWPE fibers can be composite with thermoplastic polyurethane, polyvinyl chloride, and other resins to produce lightweight and high-strength membrane materials. However, in the process of hot-pressing composite processing, UHMWPE fibers need to withstand short-term high-temperature and high-pressure conditions. The processing environment temperature in these processes is high, reaching or exceeding the melting point of the material. As for the impact of transient high temperature in the thermal processing process on fiber structure and mechanical properties, no research reports have been found. In response to the shortcomings of low melting point and easy creep of UHMWPE fibers, the mechanical stability performance of UHMWPE fibers under different hot-pressing temperatures and times was studied under the testing conditions of composite material hot-pressing processing environment. Through instruments such as differential scanning calorimeter, thermogravimetric analyzer, scanning electron microscope, X-ray diffractometer, Fourier transform infrared spectrometer and mechanical performance tester, the thermal stability performance and microstructure of UHMWPE fibers were characterized and analyzed. The results showed that the hot-pressing temperature and time had a significant impact on the performance of UHMWPE fibers. Under hot-pressing treatment of 150 ℃ or below, the mechanical properties of UHMWPE fibers changed little with the increase of hot-pressing time; under hot-pressing treatment of 160 ℃ or above, the long-term heat treatment led to a significant decrease in the mechanical properties of UHMWPE fibers. When the yarns were treated at 160 °C for 40 s, the breaking strength was 153 N, and the strength loss was 46.50%. When the hot-pressing temperature was higher than the melting point of the fibers, their strength dropped rapidly. When they were treated at 170 ℃ for 10 s, the strength dropped to 121 N, and the strength loss reached 57.80%. The research on the effects of molding temperature and molding time during the processing of UHMWPE fibers on fiber structure, surface morphology, and mechanical properties has clarified that the temperature and time during the composite processing have a significant impact on the performance of UHMWPE fibers. Suitable composite processing techniques can promote the application of UHMWPE fibers in various fields. The research findings provide necessary references for determining the composite processing technology of UHMWPE fiber materials. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation and hydrophilic properties of star-shaped PLLA-PEG block copolymer fiber membranes  XING Dongfeng, LI Yunhuan, GAO Yu, WANG Fuxing, FU Qiang, JIN Dalai Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (3): 45-52.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20240306 Abstract （430）      PDF （5086KB）（223）       Knowledge map    Save Polylactic acid (PLA) is an important biodegradable polyester material with good biocompatibility, low toxicity, and good mechanical properties. Its main raw material is starch fermentation in plants, which is renewable and can be degraded by microorganisms (bacteria, fungi, etc.) in nature. As a raw material for plant photosynthesis, PLA enters the natural cycle. There is great potential for application in fields such as green plastics, tissue scaffolds, and biomedicine. However, PLA has poor hydrophilicity and a long degradation cycle, which limits its application in many aspects. So pure PLA materials can no longer meet the growing demand, and modifying them has become a trend. The chemical modification of PLA mainly involves copolymerization with biodegradable substances to form linear or star-shaped copolymers. Research has found that compared to linear copolymers, star-shaped copolymers have smaller fluid mechanical volume and lower viscosity, indicating better thermal and degradation performance. In addition, plasticizer modification can be targeted at the performance modification of polymers to expand their application fields. Generally, it will choose to copolymerize with hydrophilic substances, such as the commonly used polyethylene glycol (PEG), which can be dissolved in interstitial fluid in the human body, and PEG with molecular weight below 4000 can be quickly eliminated from the body without any toxic and side effects. The addition of PEG can effectively increase the chain mobility of PLA, improve its ductility and stretchability, and thus broaden the potential application range of PLA. To study the preparation process and hydrophilicity of star-shaped PLA multi block polymers, pentaerythritol (PET) was used as the initiator and stannous octanoate (Sn (Oct) 2) as the catalyst. Star-shaped hydroxyl terminated poly (L-lactide) (s-PLLA) was prepared through ring opening polymerization (ROP), and condensed with polyethylene glycol (PEG, relative molecular weight is 1000) to obtain four arm star-shaped poly (L-lactide) acid polyethylene glycol copolymers (s-PLLA-PEG). The s-PLLA-PEG fiber membrane was successfully prepared by electrospinning, and its surface morphology and hydrophilicity were tested and analyzed. A series of characterization methods were used to confirm the effective synthesis of polymers such as s-PLLA and s-PLLA-PEG. There are currently few reports on the research of PLA-modified fiber membranes. The results show that the melt temperature and glass transition temperature of s-PLLA-PEG decrease, and the flexibility is improved; the contact angle between s-PLLA fiber membrane and water is 132.10°, while the contact angle between the s-PLLA-PEG fiber membrane and water is 84.10°. Over time, the contact angle gradually decreases, and ultimately water is completely absorbed by the fiber membrane, exhibiting stronger hydrophilicity. Research has shown that when PEG is successfully grafted onto s-PLLA, the hydrophilicity of s-PLLA-PEG fiber membranes is significantly better than that of s-PLLA fiber membranes. This indicates that the presence of PEG can effectively improve the hydrophilicity and hydrophobicity of the surface of the s-PLLA fiber membrane, transforming it from a hydrophobic substance to a hydrophilic substance. Due to the excellent hydrophilicity of the s-PLLA-PEG fiber membrane, it has shown certain application prospects in medical dressings. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Design of electrostatic charge-induced yarn breakage sensors LÜ Jingze, DAI Ning, HU Xudong, XU Kaixin, XU Yushan Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (3): 14-20.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20240302 Abstract （391）      PDF （1934KB）（215）       Knowledge map    Save In the spinning process, yarn breakage detection, especially for fine yarns, is an essential means to improve the performance of spinning equipment. Considering the cost and factors affecting yarn tension, yarn breakage detection in the industry is mainly based on photoelectric non-contact yarn breakage detection. The actual spinning workshop has much cotton wool and dust, which is easy to cause diffuse reflection in the photoelectric detection channel and reduce the sensor's accuracy. At the same time, changes in light intensity in the workshop will also impact the signal received by the opposite photoelectric receiver. In recent years, the spinning industry's image processing related to yarn breakage detection research is also emerging. Still, with the above-mentioned photoelectric detection principle of the same shortcomings, the approach is even more demanding on the light and installation conditions and expensive, with hundreds of spindles in the spinning process being more challenging to promote. To promote the yarn breakage detection technology for yarns, especially fine yarns, in the spinning link, it is necessary to reduce the dependence of the existing yarn breakage detection methods on the working link and installation conditions, and reduce the cost of yarn breakage detection. Based on the basic principle of electrostatic inductive detection, the electrostatic charge-induced yarn breakage sensor was constructed, and its overall structure, as well as the design of critical components such as primary signal amplification module, shaping and secondary amplification module, output and display module, were theoretically analyzed and experimentally tested. Finally, the test bench of the electrostatic charge induction yarn breakage sensor was construct to test the degree of influence of the moving yarn speed and its material on the electrostatic charge induction yarn breakage sensor in combination with the mechanism of electrostatic charge induction yarn breakage sensor performance based on the electrostatic charge induction strength. On this basis, we statistically analyzed the output point voltage values of the critical module of the electrostatic charge-induced yarn breakage sensor under the simulated working spindle speeds of the spinning machine at 13,600 r/min and 15,000 r/min, as well as under the yarn breakage condition. The research found that the speed of the moving yarn and its material are the main influencing factors of the electrostatic charge-induced yarn breakage sensor. Still, the influence is much smaller than the value of the voltage deviation at the output points OUT3 and OUT2 of the back end of the key module of the electrostatic charge-induced yarn breakage sensor when the two states of the moving yarn are broken and unbroken so that this characteristic can be used for the accurate judgment of the broken connection of the yarn. The sensor seals the circuit and detection electrodes utilizing a closed aluminium case, which reduces dust and charge interference in the air, facilitates the collection of charge signals, and obtains output voltages with significant variations for identifying different types of yarns with minor charge variations. Therefore, the device has a better state detection effect for the yarn carrying static electricity in the spinning process. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research and application progress of localization of polyester filament oil agents LU Qianqian, ZHANG Fengming, MA Jianbin, MEI Yulong, SONG Chunmin, CUI Li, Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (5): 105-115.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20240513 Abstract （388）      PDF （1181KB）（213）       Knowledge map    Save  China's polyester filament industry is developing towards high quality, multi-variety and high yield. At the same time, it puts forward higher requirements for oil agents. At present, the pre-spinning oil agents and industrial silk oil agents with high-quality requirements mainly rely on imports, which greatly increases the production cost of chemical fiber enterprises. The continuous development of domestic polyester filament oil agents that meet the requirements is conducive to the development of China's textile industry. In this paper, the research progress of the domestic application of the most widely used polyester POY, DTY, FDY and industrial yarn oil agents was reviewed in detail, including composition and requirements, industry overview, type, formulation and effect, to provide a reference for the development of high-quality and large-scale domestic oil agents in China in the future. There are few hydrophilic groups in polyester macromolecules, and it is easy to produce static electricity in the spinning process. The use of oil agents is conducive to post-processing, improving textile efficiency and ensuring product quality. Polyester filament oil agents are mainly composed of smoothing agents, emulsifiers, stabilizerss, antistatic agents and cluster agents. It is necessary to give the fiber excellent wear resistance, cluster, smoothing, wetting and antistatic properties in the high-speed spinning process to meet the production process requirements. At present, China mainly imports high-quality POY, FDY and industrial filament oil agents from Japan, Germany and the United States. Imported products have the characteristics of high quality, many types and wide application range. The scale of domestic oil agent companies represented by Zhejiang Transfar Co., Ltd., Tianjin Gongda Textile Additives Co., Ltd. and Zhejiang Huangma Technology Co., Ltd. has gradually expanded and the quality has been gradually improved, and products that can replace imported oil agents have been continuously developed. Some large chemical fiber companies such as Xin Feng Ming Group, Tongkun Group and Hengyi Group are also increasing the research and development of oil agents. At present, DTY oil agents have been domesticated. Compared with civil filament, the polyester industrial filament has the characteristics of high strength, wear resistance, lightweight and good stability. It is widely used in cords, conveyor belts, seat belts, cables and airbags, etc. It has high added value. Industrial filaments put forward higher requirements for the performance of oil agents. At present, the domestic rate of industrial filament oil agents in China is not high, and the development of high-quality oil agents for special purposes should be strengthened in the future. The research and development of polyester filament oil agents is developing in the direction of environmental protection, anti-spatter, anti-oxidation and good stability, and continuously meets the market requirements of porous fine denier, full extinction, colored silk, bionic and high-strength industrial silk. In the future, it should be combined with new technologies and new materials to continuously improve quality and reduce costs. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation of MXene/nylon fabrics and their conductive properties QIN Ji’en, TANG Yuqin, QIN Xiuxian, YIN Yunjie Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (8): 1-6.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20240801 Abstract （371）      PDF （4174KB）（177）       Knowledge map    Save MXene is a two-dimensional nanomaterial akin to graphene, characterized by high electrical conductivity and a large specific surface area. It possesses a layered structure, simple fabrication process, excellent mechanical properties, and environmental stability. This material has garnered significant attention from researchers due to its outstanding electrical conductivity, hydrophilicity, and rich electrochemical active groups, showing potential applications in energy storage, sensing, catalysis, electromagnetic shielding, and biomedical fields. MXene layers obtained through etching with hydrofluoric acid (HF) and intercalation with organic macromolecules display functional groups such as -O-, -F, and -OH on their surfaces, rendering them hydrophilic. Furthermore, single-layer MXene can form stable colloidal dispersions in various aqueous and organic solvents. Leveraging these advantages, MXene/nylon fabrics can be fabricated by immersing fabrics in MXene dispersion and drying, and the functional groups on the MXene surface can combine with hydrogen bonds of the fabrics, thus firmly adhering to the nylon fabric surface. In this study, MAX phase ceramics were etched and intercalated with anhydrous ethanol as an intercalation agent, and HF generated in situ through the reaction of LiF and HCl as the etchant, to obtain a dispersion of single-layer MXene. MXene-conductive fabrics were prepared by the immersion method, investigating the influence of immersion-drying cycles on the conductivity of MXene fabrics and evaluating fabric durability and thermal properties. The conductive properties of the MXene fabrics obtained through one impregnation-drying process are limited, and it is difficult to meet the requirements of practical applications. In order to obtain an ideal conductive fabric, nylon fabrics were impregnated in MXene dispersion for several times, so that MXene can be combined on the surface of nylon fabrics as much as possible to form a stable conductive path, thus giving the fabrics excellent conductivity. After 1-4 impregnations, the electrical conductivity of the MXene fabrics was greatly improved, from 0.88 S/m to 55.91 S/m. After four impregnation-drying processes, the MXene/nylon fabrics were coated with layered MXene on the fiber surface. Due to the use of fluoride-based etching agents, MXene contains a large number of functional groups such as −OH, −F and −O−, which can form hydrogen bonds with nylon fabrics and bond closely. There are a large number of MXene layers on the surface of the nylon fabric and between the gaps, indicating that excessive MXene is filled in the gap of the nylon fabric or superimposed with the MXene layer on the fabric surface. The pattern of MXene layer on the surface of a single fiber can be observed at high magnification, which indicates that MXene and nylon fiber have a certain combination. With an increase in the number of immersion-drying cycles, the MXene content loaded onto the surface of the nylon fabrics gradually increased, resulting in enhanced fabric conductivity. After four times of impregnation-drying, the loading of MXene tended to be saturated, and the conductivity was 55.91 S/m. The washing fastness and rubbing fastness of the MXene/nylon fabrics are insufficient. After 25 times of washing, the conductivity of the fabrics is reduced to 1.47 S/m; after five times of friction, the conductivity of the fabric is 0.49 S/m. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation and antibacterial properties of silk fibroin-polyaniline composite nanofiber membrane ZHOU Jiabao, LIU Tao, QIU Qiaohua, ZHU Lingqi, WANG Yanmin, DIN Xinbo Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (5): 9-17.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20240502 Abstract （357）      PDF （9219KB）（176）       Knowledge map    Save This article uses electrospinning technology to prepare composite antibacterial (SF PANI) dressings using polyaniline (PANI) and regenerated silk fibroin (SF) as raw materials. Silk fibroin is a structural protein that is spun into fibers by thousands of arthropods and used in vitro. It is a natural high molecular fiber protein and is often used as an ideal dressing for repairing oral, maxillofacial, and systemic skin wounds. The modification of silk fibroin materials with different antibacterial properties has received extensive research and attention. Finished silk fibroin is obtained by degumming, dialysis, and freeze-drying of silkworm cocoons. Due to its easy availability of raw materials, diverse chemical structures, simple synthesis methods, unique doping mechanisms, low cost, and good biological stability, polyaniline functionalized derivatives are a new type of antibacterial agent with the potential to provide anti fouling surfaces as non leaching additives, and have broad application prospects in textile based flexible applications. Electrospinning is a simple, cost-effective, and controllable method for preparing nanofibers or microfibers from polymers in solution or melt state under high voltage electric fields. Through scanning electron microscopy (SEM), it can be seen that as the PANI content in the SF-PANI composite nanofiber membrane increases, the fiber diameter of the composite membrane gradually decreases from a microscopic perspective, and becomes more and more uneven in thickness. From a macro perspective, with the increase of PANI content, the overall color of the nanocomposite fiber membrane changes from pure white to dark green. The chemical composition and structure of PANI were characterized by instruments such as infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) and X-ray powder diffraction (XRD). It was found that PANI was successfully loaded on the SF fiber membrane, and the addition of PANI did not react with SF to produce a new chemical structure. By analyzing the swelling and porosity of the SF-PANI composite fiber membrane, it can be concluded that the overall performance of the composite membrane meets the basic requirements for antibacterial materials. From the mechanical properties of the composite membrane, it can be seen that as the PANI content gradually increases, the mechanical properties of the composite membrane first increase and then decrease. When the PANI content reaches 2%, the mechanical properties are the best. This article studied the antibacterial properties of composite membranes before and after halogenation. It can be seen that before halogenation treatment, the SF-PANI composite nanofiber membrane has good antibacterial performance against Staphylococcus aureus and Staphylococcus aureus. After halogenation, its antibacterial mechanism undergoes a transformation, Compared with the original antibacterial property of polyaniline, n-halogenation releases strong oxidizing poplar ions, which destroy the bacterial cell membrane and enter into the bacterial body, affecting the metabolic process and activity of cellular enzymes, eventually the bacteria die. The results indicate that the chemical composition of the SF-PANI composite nanofiber membrane prepared in this article does not change with the content and modification of polyaniline, and the SF-PANI composite nanofiber membrane has good pore swelling and mechanical properties. It has good application prospects in terms of antibacterial activity against Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Recent advances in wave absorbers based on flexible electromagnetic metamaterials with different structures JIAO Xinyua, ZHANG Fuyong, LIU Yuanjuna, b, c, ZHAO Xiaoming Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (6): 116-128.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20240613 Abstract （522）      PDF （15865KB）（173）       Knowledge map    Save With the advancement of science and technology, electromagnetic protective materials are no longer confined to traditional flexible electromagnetic shielding materials. The emergence of electromagnetic metamaterial functional devices has enabled effective manipulation of electromagnetic waves. In the fabrication of metamaterial absorbers, a majority of them are constructed as three-layer structures on rigid substrates. Flexible metamaterials not only enable the conformal wrapping of objects but also contribute to the electromagnetic properties of materials. Traditional metamaterial structures consist of three layers, namely, a metal-dielectric-metal structure. The top layer is used for providing impedance matching, the middle layer attenuates electromagnetic waves through absorption, and the bottom layer is employed to block transmitted waves. Researchers have designed and prepared flexible absorbing materials that achieve efficient absorption at specific frequencies and within a wide frequency range, with polyimide (PI) being a commonly used flexible medium. Researchers replaced the metal resonator in the top layer of the absorbing material with a resistive film to optimize impedance matching. Studying flexible electromagnetic metamaterial absorbing materials with different material combinations is crucial for addressing complex electromagnetic wave environments and coping with multi-frequency band communication systems. Subsequently, researchers began to design flexible electromagnetic metamaterial absorbing materials based on structures with more than three layers. The materials mainly achieve absorption at different frequencies by combining the electromagnetic characteristics of multiple layers, thus providing a broader absorption spectrum. Among them, flexible electromagnetic metamaterial absorbing materials based on indium tin oxide (ITO) not only achieve high absorption rates, but also maintain good optical transparency. This type of structure has greater design flexibility and resonance intensity. Therefore, such materials can achieve precise and extensive impedance matching, demonstrating broadband absorption characteristics. Compared to planar structures, flexible electromagnetic metamaterial absorbing materials based on three-dimensional structures have significant potential applications. These materials can absorb electromagnetic waves in multiple frequency bands simultaneously and adapt to surfaces of various shapes and curvatures to meet various engineering and design requirements. In general, the research scope of flexible electromagnetic metamaterial absorbers is extensive, involving diverse fabrication techniques employing multiple structures. The optimization and enhancement of electromagnetic performance are achieved through meticulously layered designs. In-depth exploration and practical experimentation in the aforementioned research directions may potentially offer novel insights and methodologies for the preparation and application of flexible electromagnetic metamaterial absorbers. The future applications of flexible metamaterial absorbers are expected to continually expand across various domains. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Mining the industry chain link relationship of clothing enterprises based on the industry chain map FANG Zhijian, CHENG Yu, Jin Yao, TANG Zhechong, XU Jinying Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (6): 108-115.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20240612 Abstract （368）      PDF （3873KB）（169）       Knowledge map    Save The construction of the clothing industry chain map has become a focal area and a key strategy for the digital upgrade of China's clothing industry. Serving as a vital tool, the clothing industry chain map helps enterprises and researchers better understand and grasp the structure, relationships, and dynamics of the entire industry chain. This study aims to use digital technology to visually present the entire clothing industry chain, enhancing efficiency, reducing costs, optimizing resource allocation, and ultimately boosting the competitiveness and market position of enterprises.In the clothing industry chain map, determining which industry chain point a company belongs to and understanding the relationships among various enterprises is crucial for industry investment, resource optimization, improved production efficiency, and reduced costs. However, traditional methods of enterprise linkage often involve manual examination of company names, business scopes, and product information, leading to time-consuming and inefficient processes with suboptimal results. Therefore, researching automatic linkage algorithms for clothing enterprises is of practical significance and theoretical value in optimizing the clothing industry chain map.Current research efforts are primarily focused on text information mining and machine learning methods. However, limited research has been conducted on how to use the enterprise profiles and industrial chain map for automatic linkage in the industry chain. This study addresses this gap by collecting enterprise information, extracting keywords, establishing an enterprise information database, and proposing an automatic linkage algorithm based on the CoSENT model. The algorithm utilizes the CoSENT model to calculate the similarity between enterprise keywords and industry chain points, filters matching results through custom rules, assesses the relevance between keywords and points, and achieves automatic linkage in the industry chain for enterprises. Leveraging machine learning technology, this approach provides a more feasible solution for handling vast amounts of information related to clothing enterprises. Experimental results demonstrate that the proposed algorithm significantly outperforms other traditional algorithms on the F1-Measure metric. Compared to the Jaccard method, the accuracy of this algorithm improved by 14%; compared to the Word2Vec method, it improved by 10.5%; and compared to the SBERT method, it improved by 2.5%. This substantial enhancement elevates the accuracy and efficiency of enterprise linkage, providing robust support and guidance for optimizing the clothing industry chain map. Future research directions include collecting more enterprise information to build richer enterprise profiles, further enhancing linkage efficiency. This study offers a practical solution for the digital upgrade and optimization of the clothing industry chain. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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A multi-direction visual bending test method of fabrics based on 3D scanning JIANG Xina, LIU Chengxiaa, b Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (4): 60-67.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20240408 Abstract （339）      PDF （4327KB）（166）       Knowledge map    Save The bending property of the fabric is one of the mechanical properties of the fabric to be evaluated. It affects the formability, drapability, and crease recovery of the fabric to some extent. It also plays a key role in determining the stiffness and softness of the fabric, as well as in the performance of the garment shaping. If the fabric bending stiffness is low, clothing will appear easy to arch, easy to wrinkle, and not easy to recover. On the contrary, if bending stiffness is high, the body fit will be poor. So far, traditional fabric bending performance testing mostly relies on repeated labor. In addition, the existing fabric bending test methods can only test the bending properties of a single direction each time, and it is difficult to directly observe the differences in the bending properties of fabrics in each direction. In view of the above situation, a multi-direction visual bending test method of fabric based on 3D scanning was proposed, and three characteristic indexes representing fabric bending were extracted, namely, the projection perimeter of fabric splines in different directions, the projection area and the overall cross-sectional area of fabric. The projected perimeter and area are measured by the projection formed by the bending shape of the fabric specimen in each direction under gravity conditions. The section area is the area formed by the fitting curve of the point cloud section at 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and the bottom of the three-dimensional point cloud of the fabric. Using three-dimensional scanning technology can better show the bending shape of fabric. Not only can the whole bending property of the fabric be obtained, but also the fabric samples in different directions can be compared and analyzed. The study shows that the results measured by the new method have better correlation coefficients than the results of the conventional cantilever method. The correlation between the projection circumference and the bending length is higher than the projection area, and the section area of the bottom has the highest correlation with the bending length among the four positions. Although there are a lot of bending test methods, only the bending result of a single direction of the fabric can be obtained from each test. By contrast, the bending results of three directions of the fabric and the bending indexes of the five specimens in each direction can be obtained. At the same time, the bending differences between different fabrics and different directions of the same fabric can be obtained more intuitively. The research results of this paper can provide a more efficient testing method for the field of textile testing, and the testing efficiency is 15 times that of the existing methods, which has good theoretical significance and practical value. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Kubelka-Munk dual constant theory for the construction of full color gamut rotor spinning and color prediction WANG Yanyan, XUE Yuan, CHEN Yourong, SHI Huanqiang Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (3): 1-13.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20240301 Abstract （439）      PDF （6254KB）（163）       Knowledge map    Save Due to the heavy workload and time-consuming and material-consuming of traditional manual color measurement and matching, color spinning technology came into being. Color spinning technology is a spinning technology that blends several colored fibers in a specific proportion to produce fashionable colors. The fabric and finished product made by using color spinning do not need to be dyed again and is considered a green ecological short process technology. However, due to the inability to freely control color during the spinning stage, the actual production and application of color spinning are greatly limited. To address this issue, a four primary color ternary coupling superposition full-color gamut grid-based color mixing model was first constructed, which can perform color phase control, brightness control, and chromaticity control within the full-color gamut range. On this basis, combined with the characteristics of the Kubelka-Munk dual constant theoretical model, 84 grid point mixed sample formulas were selected from the constructed grid-based color mixing model, of which 54 mixed samples were used as measured samples. With a three-channel CNC rotor spinning machine as the platform, four primary colors of cyan (C), magenta (M), yellow (Y), and white (W) were used as raw materials. Based on the constructed full-color domain grid-based color mixing model and color mixing chromatography, we prepared actual spinning samples. Then, we measured the color values of 54 measured samples, and used the least squares method to calculate the K and S values of each primary color fiber, in order to achieve the prediction of full gamut color or primary color fiber mixing ratio. We also selected the remaining 30 mixed samples as prediction samples to verify the ability of the traditional Kubelka-Munk dual constant theory model to predict the color or primary color fiber mixing ratio. From the comparison between the predicted reflectance of the mixed samples and the actual reflectance, it is found that the predicted reflectance of some mixed samples is significantly lower than the actual reflectance. In response to the problem of insufficient prediction accuracy of traditional Kubelka-Munk double constant theory, the article proposes to reconstruct the Kubelka-Munk double constant theory model for color prediction, and then partially replace the part of the traditional method where the obviously mixed color yarn has a lower reflectivity than the actual reflectivity with the interpolation method. The results show that compared with the traditional Kubelka-Munk double constant theory, the average color difference of the reflectance predicted by the new method has been reduced from 1.48 to 1.04, and the color difference of all mixed samples can be controlled within 2.0. We use the least squares method to predict the monochromatic fiber blending ratio of ten mixed samples, and then substitute it into the Kubelka-Munk dual constant theoretical model to calculate the predicted reflectance. According to the CMC2:1 color difference formula, the color difference between the predicted reflectance and the actual reflectance of the ten mixed samples was obtained, with the minimum color difference being 0.18, the maximum being 0.91, and the average value being 0.45. As the mixing ratio changes, the color difference of the mixed samples fluctuates up and down within its average range, and the color difference is small. The prediction effect of the blending ratio is good. This prediction method has better prediction accuracy than the traditional Kubelka-Munk double constant theory. The constructed four primary color grid mixing model and Kubelka-Munk double constant theory model can be applied to predict the color mixing and mixing ratio of multi primary color fibers. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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The luminescent properties of ACQ and AIE polymeric nanoparticles and their applications in inkjet printing LIANG Xiaoqin, LIANG Lihua, ZHU Jinshun, MA Mingyue Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (4): 84-92.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20240411 Abstract （382）      PDF （8647KB）（159）       Knowledge map    Save Different from the aggregation-caused quenching (ACQ) effect of traditional fluorescent dyes, aggregation-induced emission (AIE) dyes have become a research hotspot in recent years due to their unique luminescence behavior. The applications of AIE polymer nanoparticles (AIE-PNPs) have gradually expanded from the fields such as cell imaging and chemical sensing to textile printing and dyeing fields. The research on ACQ-PNPs has been ignored for a long period. It is undeniable that a large number of ACQ dyes such as Nile red (NR) and fluorescein possess advantages of stable photophysical chemical properties, high quantum yield and so on, although the fluorescence of dyes would be weaken even quenched when the concentration reaches a certain value. Additionally, not all fluorescent polymer nanoparticles (FPNPs) need to load dyes at a high concentration in many practical applications. Therefore, it is of great importance to conduct in-depth analysis of the discrepancies of the luminescence performance between ACQ-PNPs and AIE-PNPs, and to explore the practical application value of ACQ-PNPs and AIE-PNPs simultaneously. Enjoying the advantages of green, simple and efficient preparation process, miniemulsion polymerization technology can be used to prepare various FPNPs flexibly. To compare and analyze the luminescent properties of ACQ-PNPs and AIE-PNPs, and further explore their applications in inkjet printing, PMMA/NR NPs and PMMA/TPE NPs were prepared through encapsulation of ACQgen dyes, NR and AIEgen dyes, tetraphenylethylene (TPE) in water-borne miniemulsions, respectively. Influences of the amount of dyes on the final monomer conversion, particle size and luminescent properties of PMMA/NR and PMMA/TPE NPs were investigated and analyzed. The results show that the maximum content of NR and TPE dyes is 1.5wt% and both NR and TPE dyes have negligible influence on the final monomer conversion and particle size. Within the range of 0–1.5% of fluorescent dyes, the photoluminescence (PL) intensity of PMMA/NR NPs shows a trend of first increasing and then maintaining unchanged with the increase of NR content, without fluorescence weakening or quenching phenomenon, whereas the PL intensity of the PMMA/TPE NPs increases linearly with the increase of TPE content. When the content of florescent dyes is higher than 1.5%, the PL intensity of PMMA/NR NPs begins to decrease while that of PMMA/TPE NPs keeps increasing with the increase of the fluorescent dye’s content. Therefore, the critical concentration of dyes to avoid the weakening of fluorescence of PMMA/NR NPs is 1.5%. Furtherly, in order to improve the film-forming and inkjet printing performance of FPNPs, poly(MMA-co-20%BA)/NR and poly(MMA-co-20%BA)/TPE NP emulsions were prepared through miniemulsion polymerization at 1.5% content of fluorescent dyes. After diluting, adding surfactants and filtering, poly(MMA-co-20%BA)/NR and poly(MMA-co-20%BA)/TPE NP inks were prepared and used for inkjet printing on cotton fabrics. Under incandescent light, the printed fabrics with poly(MMA-co-20%BA)/NR and poly(MMA-co-20%BA)/TPE NP inks display the same appearance as the pristine fabric, but display a bright red and blue pattern under UV light, respectively.  This paper unveils the relationship of the amount of dyes and luminescent properties of ACQ-PNPs and AIE-PNPs, and further demonstrates both NR-based ACQ-PNPs and TPE-based AIE-PNPs emulsion prepared through miniemulsion polymerization have great potential in inkjet printing application with a suitable amount of fluorescent dyes. Research results can provide reference for the development of photochromic inkjet ink. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Melt spinning of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) fibers and their structure and properties FAN Yangrui, QIAN Jianhua, YU Deyou, GUO Yuhai, DAI Hongxiang, LI Chengcai Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (7): 42-47.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20240705 Abstract （449）      PDF （2616KB）（158）       Knowledge map    Save Polyvinyl chloride is a non-toxic, odorless, and widely used thermoplastic material. It has advantages such as good flame retardancy, acid and alkali resistance, low price, good physical properties, and electrical insulation. It is currently one of the most widely used plastics. However, due to its poor stability to light and heat, it can decompose and produce hydrogen chloride when exposed to sunlight above 100 ℃ or for a long time, causing discoloration and rapid decline in physical and mechanical properties. When applying, it is necessary to add plasticizers, heat stabilizers, and other additives to improve the stability of PVC materials to light and heat. The traditional methods for PVC spinning and forming are wet spinning and dry spinning, but both methods require PVC resin to swell in acetone. However, acetone itself is toxic, and solvent recovery is harmful to the environment. The melt spinning method lags behind other technologies due to the poor heat resistance of PVC and its thermal decomposition and carbonization at high temperatures. This article used heat stabilizers and plasticizers to modify PVC resin to make it resistant to high temperatures and enable smooth melt spinning. The melt spinning process of PVC fibers was studied. The melt flow index instrument was used to test the melting temperature of PVC granules to preliminarily determine the optimal spinning temperature. The effects of different spinning temperatures and drafting ratios on the structure and properties of PVC fibers were studied. And research on the breaking strength, elongation at break, crystallinity, surface and cross-sectional morphology, as well as acid and alkali corrosion resistance and flame retardancy of the fibers were conducted. Through comparative experiments, it is found that the optimal comprehensive mechanical properties of PVC fibers are obtained when the screw temperature is 160 ℃ and the spinneret temperature is 190 ℃. When the drawing ratio is 4, the breaking strength and orientation of PVC fibers are the highest. The best spinning parameters obtained from the experiment are as follows: the spinneret is 1 cm away from the water bath, the screw temperature is 160 ℃, the spinneret temperature is 190 ℃, the hot water bath temperature is 60 ℃, the metering pump pressure is 2 MPa, and the drafting ratio is 4. Under such conditions, the PVC fibers prepared have the best performance, and their breaking strength, breaking elongation, and Linear density are 1.16 cN/dtex, 32.1%, and 12 tex, respectively; PVC fibers have excellent mechanical properties, good flame retardancy, and excellent resistance to acid and alkali corrosion. They have minimal loss of quality and strength in acid and alkali solutions, especially in acidic solutions.  The use of melt spinning technology to prepare PVC fibers has the advantages of simple process and low price. And the PVC fibers obtained through melt spinning have excellent properties and can be used to prepare corrosion-resistant and flame-retardant fabrics. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation of a titanium-phosphorus catalyst and its application in PET ZHU Haixin, WANG Yongjun, LÜ Wangyang, CHEN Wenxing Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (4): 29-37.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20240404 Abstract （486）      PDF （2134KB）（156）       Knowledge map    Save Titanium-based catalysts have the advantages of green and high efficiency, and have broad prospects in replacing antimony-based catalysts. To investigate the stability and catalytic properties of a self-made titanium-phosphorus catalyst during the polycondensation of polyethylene terephthalate (PET), the structure of the catalyst was tested with ultraviolet visible spectrophotometer (UV-Vis) and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR). The esterification products of purified terephthalic acid (PTA) and ethylene glycol (EG) were used for polycondensation to verify the hydrolysis resistance of the catalyst, and to make the catalyst more evenly dispersed and the reaction situation more suitable for actual production. It is also possible to achieve a longer period of polycondensation to prepare PET with high intrinsic viscosity. In addition, the molecular structure and properties of PET synthesized over titanium-phosphorus catalysts were characterized by ultra high performance polymer chromatography, multi angle laser light scattering instrument, differential refractometer (APC-MALLS-RID), differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), and thermogravimetric analyzer (TG).  We made a comparison between the titanium-phosphorus catalyst and the antimony-based catalyst, and added a catalyst before esterification. The addition amount of titanium-based catalyst was 5 ppm, and the addition amount of antimony-based catalyst (antimony trioxide) was 180 ppm. The prepolymer was placed in a multifunctional polycondensation reactor, and PET was synthesized through polycondensation at a temperature of 270 ℃ and a vacuum of 20–60 Pa. The results show that the titanium mass fraction of the self-made titanium-phosphorus catalyst was 17.10%. In the FT-IR spectrum, there are symmetric and antisymmetric stretching vibrations of the ester group (C=O) at positions 1,567 cm-1 and 1,438 cm-1, and the stretching vibration peak of the hydroxyl group (−OH) appears near 3,424 cm-1, indicating a strong interaction between Ti ions and ligands in the catalyst. The above indicates that Ti ions are well coordinated and the catalyst has been successfully prepared. After 103 min of esterification, the titanium-phosphorus catalyst catalyzes the polycondensation of the prepolymer for 180 min to obtain PET with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.907 dL/g and a weight average molecular weight (Mw) of 57,240 g/mol. Its catalytic activity is still higher than that of antimony-based catalysts, and exhibits good catalytic stability, which also indicates that the catalyst has good ability to prepare high viscosity PET. The polydispersity index of titanium-phosphorus PET is higher than that of antimony-based PET at the same polycondensation time due to the fact that titanium-phosphorus catalysts lead to more side reactions, fewer additions, and fewer active sites compared to antimony-based catalysts. After 120 minutes of reactive polycondensation of esterification products catalyzed by the titanium-phosphorus catalyst, the rate of broadening the molecular weight distribution of the products increases, while the degree of yellowing of PET increases. Therefore, the polycondensation time should be controlled within 120 minutes as much as possible in the process.  In terms of thermal properties, the melting peak temperature of titanium-phosphorus PET and antimony-based PET increases to the highest value at 90 min of polycondensation, with titanium-phosphorus PET being at 250.9℃ and antimony-based PET being at 249.8 ℃. And then, the melting peak temperature  gradually decreases. After 180 min of polycondensation, the temperature of 5% thermal weight loss for titanium-phosphorus PET and antimony-based PET is 413.3℃ and 412.3 ℃, respectively. The thermal stability of the titanium-phosphorus catalyst for synthesizing PET is better than that of antimony-based PET. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Virtual fitting research based on the diffusion model and ControlNet network GUO Yuxuan, SUN Lin Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (3): 118-128.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20240314 Abstract （492）      PDF （7158KB）（153）       Knowledge map    Save With the development and iteration of image generation models, models  like Stable Diffusion based on the  diffusion model have become the mainstream image generation models, providing a new way for clothing design and rendering. The diffusion model usually uses the text prompt word as the image generation condition and the generated picture has randomness. It is difficult to accurately generate the virtual fitting effect of a specific style. The application of ControlNet neural networks makes the generation of images more controllable. The trained Controlnet network can use the image information such as Canny edge map, depth map, and Openpose map as additional generation conditions of the diffusion model to control the human body posture, edge features, front and rear position relationship of the generated image. This paper briefly describes the development history and principle of the diffusion model, and explores its feasibility for generating virtual fitting renderings. To achieve the purpose of visualizing the clothing style diagram as the garment effect and realize the rapid generation of virtual fitting effect, This paper attempts to use ControlNet neural network to control the diffusion model to generate virtual fitting effect of virtual models wearing specified clothing styles.   The virtual fitting of three dresses was taken as an example for experimentation. Firstly, the images of real clothing models with expected posture were sampled, and the key human body images and pose depth maps of real models were extracted as the generation conditions. Then, the Controlnet control Stable Diffusion model was used to generate a virtual clothing model image that matches the intended pose. Subsequently, the edge image of the virtual model was generated by the Canny algorithm, and the edge image was edited and modified in combination with the dress style diagram. The edge image of the virtual model wearing the specified style dress was drawn, and it was used as the edge generation condition. The virtual fitting effect of the dress conforming to the specific style, color and fabric was generated by the text prompt-controlled diffusion model, and the style of the dress with the virtual fitting effect was changed in real time by modifying the edge image, so as to provide an intuitive reference for fashion designers to modify and adjust designs. In addition, the detailed feature control experiment of the virtual model was also carried out during the experiment; experiment on the control effect of text prompt word weight on clothing fabric and color was carried out. Finally, the generation effect of the proposed method was compared and evaluated with the effect of 3D modeling virtual fitting clothing. The results show that the diffusion model combined with the ControlNet network can control the pose characteristics of the virtual model, allowing the virtual fitting effect of the expected clothing style to be generated by editing the Canny edge image control. Compared with 3D modeling, the virtual fitting effect is more expressive, the operation is more intuitive and faster, and it is more suitable for providing designers with intuitive clothing display in the style design stage, assisting designers to adjust the design style, color, fabric and process, and improving the efficiency of clothing design. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation and performance of polyurethane nanofiber membrane for air filtration#br# LI Jinchao, MEI Shuo, DU Yujia, MA Biao, LI Hong Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (5): 18-22.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20240503 Abstract （366）      PDF （6356KB）（152）       Knowledge map    Save The damage of air pollution to human health is receiving more and more attention with the development of society. Protective materials for isolating harmful particles, bacteria, viruses and other harmful microorganisms have attracted unprecedented attention due to the unexpected COVID-19 in the past three years. Preparing more efficient and low-resistance air filter materials has important practical significance. Nanofiber membranes prepared by electrospinning technology have the advantages of smaller fiber diameter and higher porosity compared with traditional filter materials. They have been a hot research in the field of high efficiency air filtration in recent years. To expand the application of electrospun nanofiber membranes in the air filtration field and to develop more efficient and low-resistance air filtration materials, polyurethane was used as the raw material, tetrahydrofuran (THF) and N, N-dimethylformamide (DMF) were used as solvents in this paper. The polyurethane nanofibers prepared by electrospinning had dendritic branches by adding different kinds of salts to the spinning solution, and the conductivity of the spinning solution was increased. The dendritic structures made the pore size of the nanofiber membranes smaller to further improve the filtration efficiency. The influences of the spinning voltage, salt type and addition on the morphology, hydrophobicity and air filtration of the fiber membrane were studied. The results show that at a solution concentration of 14%, the type of salt and spinning voltage have great influence on the branching structure, and the branching structure of polyurethane nanofiber membranes is most obvious when the TBAC is added with the spinning voltage being 35 KV. Meanwhile, The contact angle of fiber membranes decreases from 99.1° to 82.8° with the addition of the salts (the hydrophilicity of membrane materials increases), which can improve the moisture absorption and moisture conductivity of air filter materials in a certain level. The filtration performance is significantly improved (the filtration efficiency increases from 50.8% to 93.6%). The branching superfine nanofibers can further reduce the pore size of the ninafiber membrane, which can separate smaller size particles; the specific surface area increases as the fiber becomes thinner, and thus the contact area between particles and fibers increases; the probability of adsorbing and capturing particles increases, and thus increases the filtration efficiency of the fiber membrane. At the same time, due to the smaller diameter, the resistance of the branched ultrafine nanofibers is correspondingly reduced, so that the filtration resistance of the filter material is also maintained at a low level, and the quality factor that can reflect the comprehensive filtration performance of the filter material is improved from 0.009 to 0.073. Therefore, ultrafine nanofibers are suitable for high-efficiency and low-resistance air filtration materials.  Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress on polyester FDY spinning oils DONG Qiao, CHEN Xiaoqin, HAN Chunyan, QIN Xianan, Jin Yifeng, WANG Shengpeng, LÜ Wangyang, Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (8): 75-84.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20240809 Abstract （579）      PDF （1139KB）（152）       Knowledge map    Save The FDY spinning oil is an indispensable auxiliary in the production of polyester FDY, providing the fibers with excellent smoothness, bundling, anti-static properties, and abrasion resistance during the spinning process, thus ensuring the fibers proceed smoothly through subsequent processing steps. This review comprehensively introduced the research progress on FDY spinning oils both domestically and internationally. First, it elucidated the composition of FDY spinning oils, which mainly include smoothing agents, emulsifiers, wetting agents, bundling agents and anti-static agents. Smoothing agents primarily reduce friction between fibers, enhancing their smoothness and ensuring the seamless spinning process. Emulsifiers aid in the dispersion of the oil in water, forming stable emulsions that are easier to apply and distribute. Wetting agents improve the spreadability of the oil on the fiber surface, ensuring uniform coverage. Bundling agents assist in the cohesion of fibers during the spinning process, while anti-static agents address the issue of static buildup during spinning, preventing quality defects caused by static electricity. The review also briefly introduced FDY spinning oil products from major companies abroad and their development status. International FDY spinning oil products have achieved many significant technological advancements. For instance, many foreign companies have started to develop and apply new types of oils with excellent biodegradability to reduce environmental impact. Additionally, significant progress has been made in improving anti-static properties, abrasion resistance, and thermal stability of foreign products, greatly enhancing the performance of polyester FDY fibers in practical applications. Furthermore, the review summarized the latest research progress on FDY spinning oils in China, with a particular focus on breakthroughs and applications in technological innovation. Domestic research institutions and companies have also made significant achievements in the development and application of FDY spinning oil. For example, some domestic research efforts have focused on optimizing oil formulations to improve the smoothness and anti-static properties of fibers to meet the needs of different application fields. Moreover, some studies have explored the potential of enhancing oil performance through the introduction of nanotechnology and functional additives, providing new ideas and directions for the development of FDY spinning oils. Finally, this review discussed the development prospects of FDY spinning oils. In the future, with the continuous development of the textile industry, the demand for new polyester fibers will continue to increase, which will pose higher requirements for the performance of spinning oils. As new materials and technologies continue to emerge, the performance and application scope of FDY spinning oils will continue to expand. These innovations will sustain the development of new polyester FDY fibers, promoting further advancement in the textile industry. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress of textile materials with negative Poisson's ratio YANG Ruihua, HUA Yuzhu Advanced Textile Technology    2025, 33 (04): 1-12.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20250401 Abstract （316）      PDF （15082KB）（150）       Knowledge map    Save Textile materials with negative Poisson's ratio structures have excellent shear resistance, energy absorption, and fracture resistance, and they are cost-effective compared to other materials with negative Poisson's ratio structures. Therefore, the auxetic textile materials have aroused the interest of many scholars. To further promote the research and application of textile materials with negative Poisson's ratio, this article systematically introduces the different auxetic principles of one-dimensional, two-dimensional, and three-dimensional auxetic textile materials and summarizes their existing problems.  The research on auxetic yarns with a negative Poisson's ratio is based on the helical structure core-spun yarn, and the auxetic effect is achieved by the position exchange between components in the yarn. Its production equipment mainly includes ring spinning machines, weaving machines, hollow spindle, or simple wrapping mechanisms. Due to the influence of the helical structure, the end of the auxetic yarns is prone to untwisting and deformation, resulting in the loss of the auxetic effect. To solving this problem, it is necessary to develop more novel structures and preparation methods. There are two main ways for two-dimensional fabrics to produce auxetic effects: one is to weave fabrics with yarns with a negative Poisson's ratio; the other is to use ordinary yarns and choose appropriate yarn arrangement to weave two-dimensional fabrics with negative Poisson's ratio effect. As the yarn with a negative Poisson's ratio needs to be arranged straight in the fabric to produce a good auxetic effect, it is only applied in auxetic woven fabrics. In addition, knitted fabrics can achieve different negative Poisson's ratio structures through flexible yarn arrangement. The negative Poisson's ratio structures formed are mostly concave and rotating structures. Therefore, when designing and manufacturing two-dimensional fabrics with a negative Poisson's ratio, it is necessary to carefully consider and evaluate factors such as yarn properties and fabric structure design in order to develop optimal auxetic performance for the textile materials. Three-dimensional fabrics are very popular in composite materials, and the addition of auxetic effect further improves the mechanical properties and energy absorption performance of 3D fabrics. Different from the previous two textile materials, three-dimensional auxetic fabrics can produce auxetic effects both inside and outside the plane. Warp knitted three-dimensional auxetic fabrics typically use concave and rotating structures; the three-dimensional auxetic knitted fabric is mainly characterized by the folding structure; the three-dimensional woven auxetic fabric utilizes binder yarns to form a negative Poisson's ratio structure.  In recent years, despite the numerous studies on negative Poisson's ratio textile materials and their extensive potential applications, the exploration of these materials has remained focused on the basic protective properties. Few studies have successfully combined their advantages with other fields and put them into practical use. In addition, integrating the advantages of negative Poisson's ratio textiles into practical production for rational product design is also a bottleneck that needs to be overcome. For example, if special properties such as self-driving, sensing, and thermal management can be endowed to auxetic textiles, it will greatly broaden their development path. In summary, the development of auxetic textiles should focus on exploring new application areas and practical applications. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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The latest research progress of lignin flame retardants LIU Yia, LIU Yuanjuna, b, c, ZHAO Xiaominga, b, c, LIU Yanyan Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (6): 28-40.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20240604 Abstract （545）      PDF （11105KB）（147）       Knowledge map    Save Lignin is currently the second largest resource of biomass materials in the plant world. However, due to the complexity of the molecular structure of lignin, its thermal stability is relatively poor, and it does not contain flame retardant elements such as phosphorus and nitrogen. The direct use of lignin as a flame retardant shows limited effectiveness in enhancing the flame retardancy of materials, hindering its market prospects as a high-end flame retardant material. Physical synergy and chemical grafting treatment can improve the inherent defects of lignin fibers, resulting in low smoke release, low heat release rate, high flame retardancy and high thermal stability. At the same time, this treatment can better maintain the original performance of the fuel, such as softness, air permeability and so on. However, the traditional flame retardant preparation process involves the use of toxic substances, such as halogens and metals, resulting in processing difficulties. Finally, it tends to decompose easily at high temperatures, diminishing its flame retardant effectiveness. Safety problems seriously restrict the sustainable development of traditional flame retardants. In summary, the use of lignin flame retardant materials is the most environmentally friendly and easy-to-implement improvement method in the flame retardant industry. Usually, lignin is compounded with other flame retardants, or flame retardant elements or groups are introduced into the chemical structure of lignin by chemical modification. In physical synergy, lignin can be used as a charring agent to make the char layer of the flame retardant material more compact after combustion. In composite flame retardant materials, the content of lignin has a certain impact on the flame retardant effect. As the lignin content increases, the limiting oxygen index of the combustible material rises, the total smoke production and the total heat release rate decrease. Chemical grafting modification can be roughly divided into nitrogen and phosphorus modification, nitrogen and phosphorus modification containing metal ions, organic silicon modification and nano modification. Among them, nitrogen and phosphorus modification is widely used. In terms of flame retardancy, most chemically modified lignin flame retardants can improve thermal stability and reduce smoke generation. In terms of flame retardancy, most chemically modified lignin flame retardants can improve thermal stability and reduce smoke generation. In the nitrogen and phosphorus modified lignin flame retardant, the phosphorus element plays a role in promoting the formation of carbon in the composite, making it form a dense carbon layer and flame retardant in the condensed phase. During the combustion process, nitrogen forms ammonia to dilute air, achieving the purpose of high efficiency flame retardant in the gas phase flame retardant mechanism. The introduction of metal ions can further improve the performance of nitrogen and phosphorus modified lignin flame retardant. Silicone lignin flame retardant has good heat resistance, oxidation resistance and smoke suppression. The introduction of organosilicon contributes to the formation of a uniform and dense carbon layer, aiding in the reduction of carbon emissions. The nano-modified lignin flame retardant, due to the presence of nanoscale, exhibits a higher specific surface area, facilitating contact with the material surface and enhancing flame retardant effectiveness. At the same time, the dispersion of lignin nanoparticles in the material can form a gas phase barrier effect, slow down the combustion spread and improve the flame retardancy. Through physical synergy and chemical grafting modification, the flame retardant effect of lignin is improved. There are problems in the use of traditional flame retardants. Such as, high toxicity, serious environmental pollution and high energy consumption. These problems seriously restrict the sustainable development of flame retardant industry. The preparation of lignin flame retardant is an effective way to improve environmental protection and flame retardancy. Lignin flame retardants can carbonize combustibles at high temperatures to produce porous carbon materials and release some harmless gases. As a result, lignin flame retardant is more environmentally friendly and efficient. Therefore, lignin flame retardant become a research hotspot for the sustainable development of flame retardant industry. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress of spreading technology for large tow carbon fibers ZHU Fanqiang, SHEN Wei, YANG Xiaobing, YAO Jiangweia, ZHAO Defanga, ZHANG Wanhu, ZOU Zhuanyong Advanced Textile Technology    2025, 33 (02): 1-9.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20250201 Abstract （516）      PDF （4110KB）（143）       Knowledge map    Save Carbon fiber-reinforced composites have a series of advantages such as light weight, high strength and high modulus, corrosion resistance, strong designability, and easy integral molding, and are widely used in automobile manufacturing, aerospace, sports, energy, wind turbine blades, and so on. In the entire carbon fiber production chain, the cost of raw silk required for the production of small tow carbon fiber is more than four times the cost of raw silk required for the production of large tow carbon fiber, which somewhat restricts the wide application of carbon fibers. In order to expand the application of carbon fibers, large tow carbon fibers with lower cost can be chosen. In the application of large tow carbon fibers, it is necessary to spread the fibers to improve the wettability of the resin to the carbon fiber tows. The exploration of spreading fiber technology began in the 1970s, but the initial research on this technology was still relatively simple and slowly evolved into a diversified development trend by the end of the 1990s. Entering the 21st century, the carbon fiber production technology has gradually improved, and the spreading technology for tow carbon fibers tends to be increasingly mature. Fiber spreading technology helps large tow carbon fibers maximize the advantages of small tow carbon fibers, fully exerts the reinforcing effect of large-tow carbon fibers, and achieves high efficiency and low cost in the preparation of composite materials. Thus, the spreading technology of large tow carbon fibers is crucial in the preparation and application of composite materials reinforced by carbon fibers. The spreadability of carbon fiber tows can be measured by the change in width of carbon fiber tow before and after spreading. The spreading effect affects the morphology of carbon fiber tow, permeability and structural properties of composites. The commonly used fiber spreading technologies for large tow carbon fibers mainly includes the following six types: multi-roller thermal rolling spreading method, mechanical multi-roller spreading method, acoustic wave-assisted spreading method, electrostatic-assisted spreading method, microbump array-assisted spreading method and air flow disturbance spreading method. Various fiber spreading methods can delaminate large tow carbon fibers into thin layers, and obtain thin-layer carbon fiber bundles with small deviations in physical properties and excellent mechanical properties, making the preparation of composite materials more efficient and cost-effective, and expanding the application fields of carbon fibers. However, different fiber spreading methods have their own advantages and disadvantages. Among them, air flow disturbance spreading technology is the most cost-effective and promising one. In order to reduce the fiber damage caused by fiber spreading and increase the effect of fiber bundle widening, the spreading methods should be diversified. In practical applications, a combination of fiber spreading technologies with less fiber damage should be considered. Furthermore, new-type fiber spreading devices with refined functions and a complete range of types should be designed to promote the continuous iterative development of fiber spreading technology. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress on the application of flexible fabric sensors in smart socks XU Jiashi, WU Qiaoying Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (11): 1-14.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20241101 Abstract （525）      PDF （8953KB）（140）       Knowledge map    Save With the development of the times and the progress of science and technology, smart wearable devices have received extensive attention from researchers. Among various wearable devices, smart socks are expected to play an important role in the fields of health monitoring, athletic training and therapy, disease prevention and interactive learning because of their comfort, softness, high precision, small size and convenience. In recent years, the application of smart wearable devices is getting increasingly important in people’s daily life. Devices with characteristics of softness, comfort, compactness, convenience, and skin-friendliness have become a research hotspot. And in order to meet people’s demand of comfort and convenience, smart wearable devices are gradually developing towards flexibility and miniaturization, which gradually makes textiles with small volume, good softness, breathableness and friendliness an ideal carrier for smart wearable devices. The flexible fabric sensor, with the advantages of lightness, thinness, breathableness, softness, deformability, and high integration with other materials, sees great development potential and can be highly adaptable to smart socks. Smart socks for pressure monitoring can identify the wearer’s gait information, thus providing gait assistance. They can also be used for disease prevention or treatment; smart socks for temperature monitoring can prevent venous congestion and foot ulcers. Smart socks with multi-functional monitoring are widely used in sports health, disease prevention, human-computer interaction and other fields. As smart socks continue to expand their application range, future research should focus on the development of comfortable and intelligent materials and better integration methods. In such a way, the daily use of smart socks can be realized.   The flexibility and skin-friendliness of flexible fabric sensors are crucial for smart socks. Smart socks can be highly integrated with flexible fabric sensors while meeting the condition of being ideal carriers. At present, smart socks have broad application prospects in gait recognition, disease prevention, motion monitoring, human-computer interaction and other fields. With further optimization and development, smart socks are expected to realize the daily usage and bring us more intelligent life experiences. As a foot wearable device, smart socks have great potential in the smart wearable field. In the future, these exquisite and multi-functional smart socks are expected to be integrated into people’s daily life. They are not only wearable, but also play an important role in sports monitoring, health monitoring, disease prevention, human-computer interaction and other fields. Although smart socks have been developed in a variety of styles and functions, their durability, wearability and scale remain as problems that researchers need to face and solve. Therefore, it is necessary to improve the materials, integrated processes, and energy supply methods of flexible fabric sensors to speed up the daily usage of smart socks. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Wettability regulation and mechanism study of PLCL microfiber nonwoven materials ZHU Xueying, DENG Jixia, HUANG Chen Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (4): 1-9.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20240401 Abstract （450）      PDF （6966KB）（139）       Knowledge map    Save Electrostatic spinning technology is an efficient method for the preparation of nanofiber materials. The fiber materials produced by this method have high porosity and specific surface area, and their fiber structure can mimic the extracellular matrix, making them an ideal material for promoting repair and regeneration of damaged parts in tissue engineering. PLCL is a synthetic polymer material with high biosafety and degradability, and is widely used in tissue engineering and drug delivery. However, the poor hydrophilicity and poor biocompatibility of PLCL electrospun fiber materials limit their applications. The hydrophilicity of composite or pure PLCL fiber materials is often improved by mixing them with hydrophilic natural or synthetic polymer materials or post-treating PLCL microfiber nonwoven materials, etc. However, the composite fiber material made by the former method is unstable in structure and prone to phase separation, and some of the natural polymer materials have large brittleness and poor flexibility, resulting in poor mechanical properties of the composite material. By contrast, the composite fiber material made by the latter method is unstable in effect, and is prone being hydrophobic from being hydrophilic after a period of use. By changing the ratios of hexafluoroisopropanol (HFIP) and trifluoroacetic acid (TFA) in the electrostatic spinning solution, the wettability of poly(propylene lactone-caprolactone) (PLCL) microfibrous nonwoven materials was changed in a one-step method without adding any hydrophilic components or finishing. PLCL was dissolved in a solvent mixture of HFIP and TFA and then electrostatically spun, and it was found that the average fiber diameter decreased from 1.036 μm to 0.611 μm with the increase of TFA content from 0 to 100%, and the contact angle decreased from 121° in the droplet method to 46° in the bubble method. The infrared spectra, thermogravimetric curves, X-ray diffraction curves, and nuclear magnetic hydrogen spectra of the materials were further tested to investigate the mechanism of the phenomenon. The experimental results showed that the addition of TFA shortened the chain segment of PLCL macromolecule and reduced the number of hydrophobic ester groups, which led to the decrease of fiber diameter and the increase of hydrophilicity of the material. Nevertheless, the addition of TFA did not change the thermal stability of the material as a whole, and did not produce new chemical structures, and the hydrolysis occurred firstly in the amorphous region of the PCL molecule. It is proved that hydrophilic PLCL microfiber nonwoven materials can be prepared simply and efficiently by changing the solvent ratio. PLCL microfiber nonwoven materials can be applied to tissue engineering dressings, inoculating epidermal cells or fibroblasts based on the polymer scaffold material can be used to repair patients' wound to increase the degree of active growth factor secretion. Since hydrophilic materials are easier for cell adhesion and biocompatible, improving the wettability of PLCL microfiber nonwoven materials is one of the keys to expanding their applications. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation and properties of self-cleaning F-SiO2/ BaTiO3 coated cooling fabric XU Shuai, WANAG Fei, YUAN Hao, ZHANG Jiawen, , YI Lingmin Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (9): 1-9.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20240901 Abstract （490）      PDF （14122KB）（137）       Knowledge map    Save Global warming and urban heat island effect have a significant influence on social progress and survival of human beings. Excessive heat in outdoor space can reduce the lifespan of outdoor products and pose a threat to people's safety. Therefore, during hot summer days, outdoor protective equipment with cooling functions has become increasingly popular. Passive daytime radiative cooling (PDRC) technology is an effective strategy for achieving outdoor cooling. It can cool the surface of the subject solely through the inherent properties of the material itself without consuming any energy. PDRC materials reflect sunlight with wavelengths ranging from 0.3 to 2.5 µm and radiate heat through the atmospheric window (8–13 µm) into outer space. Combining radiative cooling technology with textiles to prepare cooling textiles is meaningful.  However, it is difficult to achieve high cooling performance while maintaining good usability of textiles. Meanwhile, outdoor cooling textiles inevitably encounter rainfall and atmospheric sediments during use. These contaminants will accumulate on the surface of textiles, reducing their sunlight reflectance and infrared emissivity, which in turn affects the cooling performance. Therefore, it is necessary to develop PDRC textiles that have anti-contamination capabilities and can continuously achieve high-efficiency cooling effect. In this study, PDMS and fluorosilane-modified SiO2 particles were used to combine with visible-near infrared highly reflective BaTiO3 particles to prepare PDRC coating with self-cleaning property on nylon fabrics to obtain coating fabrics with cooling effect. The morphology and chemical structure of the coated nylon fabrics were analyzed. The influencing factors of the spectral characteristics of the coated nylon fabric were studied. The cooling performance, self-cleaning performance, and mechanical properties of fabrics were also investigated.  The results show that the coated fabric has a comparatively higher sunlight reflectance and mid-infrared emissivity, and both the sunlight reflectance and mid-infrared emissivity increase with the increase of coating amount. When the coating amount is 8.59 mg/cm2, the average sunlight reflectance of the coated fabric is 88%, and the average mid-infrared emissivity is 92%. Compared with the original nylon fabric, the coated fabric can reduce the temperature by up to 5.6 °C when the solar radiation intensity is 558 W/m2. Meanwhile, the composite coated fabric has a hydrophobic surface with a water contact angle of 146.6°, and it possesses excellent cooling performance, self-cleaning ability, abrasion resistance and outstanding mechanical strength, indicating broad application prospects in the outdoor scenario. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Influence of structural parameters on the performance of braided core-sheath triboelectric sensing yarns GAO Yue , TAO Qingyun , MENG Fenye , YAN Xiong , HU Jiyong Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (7): 1-12.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20240701 Abstract （480）      PDF （22328KB）（134）       Knowledge map    Save Respiration is an uninterrupted and important biomechanical behavior that occurs throughout human′s whole life, and is used as a diagnostic signal for a variety of diseases. With the development of wearable flexible sensors, new ideas are provided for the design of respiratory sensors that real-timely, non-invasively and comfortably monitor human respiratory motion. Compared to other types of sensors, triboelectric sensors have been widely adopted for self-powered respiration monitoring owing to their compelling features, such as decent biocompatibility, wearing comfort, low-cost, and high sensitivity to respiration activities in the aspect of low frequency and slight amplitude motion. Among them, yarn-based triboelectric sensors have attracted attention for their comfort and high flexible integration. However, most of the researches on triboelectric sensing yarns for respiration monitoring focus on structural design. How structural parameters affect their performance remains unclear, hindering the industrial production of triboelectric sensing yarns. In order to meet the needs of daily long-term monitoring of human respiratory motion and large-scale production, a braided core-sheath triboelectric sensing yarn based on a single-electrode working mode was designed. According to its structure and process characteristics, the effects of the stretchable electrode twist and the braiding parameters of the outer braided layer on the performance of the sensing yarn are discussed. Firstly, six stretchable electrodes with different twists were prepared with the same structural parameters of the outer braided layer, and their tensile and electrical properties were tested. On this basis, the stretchable electrodes with the best performance were selected, and the sensing yarns with different braiding parameters were prepared by changing the number of braided yarns and the braiding angle. In order to satisfy the application in daily garments, the first step is to select the braiding parameters with stable structure and to meet the requirements of tensile properties. Then, investigating the effects of braiding parameters on the electrical property of the sensing yarns. In this paper, the effects of stretchable electrode yarn twist and braided layer parameters on the dielectric layer thickness, surface morphology and compression deformation of the braided core-sheath triboelectric sensing yarn are investigated. Moreover, correlation analysis was used to investigate the relationship between these factors and the electrical property of the sensing yarns. The results show that the elastic elongation of the sensing yarn gradually increases with the increase of stretchable electrode yarn twist, and the elastic recovery rate and short-circuit current decrease. For the braiding parameters, the elastic recovery rate of the sensing yarn is mainly affected by the braiding angle, and the electrical property by the multiple effects of the braiding parameters. The maximum short-circuit current is obtained when the number of braided yarns is 10 and the braiding angle is 45˚. In the contact-separation frequency range of 0.15~1.2 Hz, the short-circuit current of this sensing yarn increases with frequency and has good output stability during 2000 cycles of motion. The sensing yarn can respond to different respiratory states when it is worn on the human abdomen. The results show that the braided sensing yarn based on the knitting/twisting process can be used for human respiratory status monitoring, which is of great significance for the production of triboelectric respiratory monitoring sensors. Generally, the effects of braided core-sheath yarn structural parameters on the performance of triboelectric sensing yarns are determined, and the application potential of this sensing yarns for human respiratory status monitoring is tested. The research results provide guide for the subsequent production of triboelectric respiratory monitoring sensors. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Development status and prospect of outdoor tent materials YUAN Shengchao, LIANG Huifang, DAI Guoli, MO Fanbo, LUO Yi, YE Xiangyu, WANG Chenglong, ZHU Feichao, Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (6): 142-150.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20240615 Abstract （342）      PDF （2097KB）（133）       Knowledge map    Save Tents act as temporary shelters in outdoor activities to protect the safety of users. Tent cloth is the main body of the tent, and different tent materials can endow the tent with different functions to cope with different use scenarios. This paper reviewed the development history of tent materials, and summarized the latest progress in the field of tent materials in the past ten years, with focus on the development and practical application of functional civil and military tent materials.  At present, the tent materials on the market are mainly synthetic fiber composite materials, and on the basis of meeting the basic performance requirements of wind and rain and cold resistance, consumers pay more attention to the multi-functional tents, for example, tents that can maintain the humidity of the tent waterproof permeable materials. Thermal insulation materials reduce heat transfer between internal and external temperatures through thermal insulation, reflective materials and ventilation design, so that the temperature inside the tent is kept within a suitable range; radiative cooling materials achieve no energy consumption cooling through radiative heat transfer; inflatable tents are light and easy to carry and set up. Made of environmentally friendly materials, biodegradable and recyclable bio-based tents are hot spots in the field of civilian tents. Military tents play an essential and key role in military operations, providing the necessary infrastructure and support for the army, and providing comprehensive protection for high-intensity military activities. Compared with civilian tent materials, military tent materials have more special performance requirements in terms of functionality, such as infrared stealth materials to reduce detection risks, electromagnetic shielding materials to protect communication privacy, bio-resistant tents to protect against biochemical threats, and solar-powered tents for sustainable energy supply are all hot spots in research.  With the continuous improvement of the level of textile and material science and technology, as well as the further development of outdoor leisure industry, the outdoor tent material market at home and abroad has broad prospects for development. At present, in terms of the research, development, and production of civil and military tent materials, Europe, the United States and other developed countries are in a leading position, while in terms of processing and application, domestic research units and enterprises only stay in the laboratory or theoretical application range, and industrial processing means and large quantities of application effects still need to be further developed and verified. In the future, outdoor tents will tend to be lightweight, intelligent, multi-functional,green, and sustainable. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Numerical simulation of the fluid flow pattern in slot die coating process HONG Haobin, ZHANG Hengkuan, ZHANG Xianming Advanced Textile Technology    2025, 33 (04): 75-82.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20250409 Abstract （289）      PDF （6923KB）（132）       Knowledge map    Save The slot die coating is widely utilized in fabric coating and advanced packaging as a predictive coating technology. The thickness distribution and stability of the liquid film formed during the slot die coating process affect the morphology and structure of the cured coating, ultimately influencing the properties of the product. However, due to the coupling of multiple operational parameters, the mechanism that influences film thickness distribution and stability remains unclear. In this study, we conduct numerical simulations of the slot die coating process to investigate film formation. Firstly, relevant governing equations are established, the geometric model and boundary conditions are determined and meshed, the solution method is given and mesh-independence is verified. Subsequently, we verify the accuracy of our numerical simulations by comparing them with experimental data reported in the literature. Finally, we investigate the mechanisms through which operating conditions and fluid properties influence the thickness, uniformity, and stability of the liquid film. The contour plots of liquid phase distribution shows that the thickness of the liquid film increases continuously with the elongation of fluid flow time. When the flow time is 0.1s, the liquid film thickness no longer changes with time, and the transient numerical calculation is completed. To investigate the coating mechanism and flow pattern of slot die coating, different substrate moving speeds, inlet velocities and fluids with different viscosities are set up for numerical calculation, and the role of each factor is analyzed in combination with the film thickness distribution and film-forming stability. It can be concluded from the film thickness distribution graph and velocity contour that: when the substrate moving speed is relatively low, the film-forming flow rate is less than the inlet flow rate, resulting in fluid accumulation at the die lip. Thus the film-forming flow rate and the liquid film thickness increase with the substrate moving speed; when the film-forming flow rate increases to the inlet flow rate, the liquid film thickness reaches the maximum. However, as the substrate moving speed further increases, the film-forming flow rate remains constant and equal to the inlet flow rate, leading to a decrease in liquid film thickness. Within the stable operating window, coating uniformity increases with the increase of the substrate moving speed. As the viscosity of the fluid increases, there is little noticeable change in the thickness of the coating, whereas the uniformity of the liquid film steadily decreases. This is attributed to the increased viscous force, which causes the substrate to entrain more fluid. Consequently, the film-forming flow rate equals the inlet flow rate, resulting in no further changes in film thickness. As the inlet velocity increases, the thickness of the liquid film keeps increasing and the uniformity of the liquid film does not change significantly. The simulation results show that the substrate velocity and inlet velocity are the main factors influencing the film thickness and its uniformity. A stable and uniform coating can only be achieved within a specific range of process parameters; otherwise, coating defects may arise. The analysis of the film formation mechanism of slot die coating provides theoretical guidance for the optimization of coating process parameters. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Effect of ammonium persulfate concentration on electromagnetic shielding properties of PAN/PANI nanofiber membranes SU Qi, GAO Yan, GAO Xiaoping, YANG Bochen Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (5): 1-8.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20240501 Abstract （368）      PDF （7520KB）（131）       Knowledge map    Save Polyaniline (PANI), as a suitable conductive polymer, has many inherent and unique properties, such as reversible redox properties, electrical conductivity, sensing properties and pH switching. However, due to its poor mechanical properties and thermal stability, it is difficult to be used in the field of electromagnetic shielding materials alone. Due to the limitation of melt extrusion technology, polyaniline fibers can only be formed from the spinning solution during the spinning process. However, the existing methods of preparing polyaniline nanofiber membranes from polyaniline inevitably weaken the mechanical properties of polyaniline. Based on electrospinning technology, the polyacrylonitrile (PAN) nanofiber membrane was used as raw material and immersed in aniline (An) acid solution, the polyaniline (PANI) coatings were prepared on the surface of PAN nanofibers by in-situ polymerization with the addition of APS (with a respective concentration of 0.1 mol/l, 0.2 mol/l, 0.3 mol/L, 0.4 mol/l and 0.5 mol/L), and the PAN/PANI composite nanofiber membrane was prepared. The microstructures, chemical structures, resistivity and electromagnetic shielding properties of the composite nanofiber membranes were investigated by means of scanning electron microscope, Fourier infrared spectroscopy, four-probe specific resistance tester and radiation protection tester. In addition, the effect of APS concentration on the electromagnetic shielding effectiveness of the composite nanofiber membrane was studied based on the regression analysis method. The results show that the nanofibers with random distribution on the surface of the composite nanofiber membrane have network structure and show dense structure. The nano-fibers on the surface of the PAN/PANI composite fiber membrane will break and become even and compact to agglomerate with the increase of oxidant concentration, which indicates that the oxidant concentration is too low. In other words, the low quality and low yield of PANI produced by An and APS make it impossible for PANI to effectively deposit on PAN, resulting in disconnection on the surface of nanofibers. The excessively high concentration of oxidant results in  agglomeration on the surface of nanofibers. Fourier infra-red spectra show that with the advent of in situ polymerization, the nitrile groups of PAN and PANI interact with each other to generate electrostatic interaction, while PAN and PANI do not react. With the increase of APS concentration, the resistivity of PAN nanofiber membrane decreases first and then increases, which indicates that when the concentration of APS is 0.3 mol/L, the quality of polyaniline is the best, and it can form a good conductive network on PAN, and can effectively absorb and shield electromagnetic waves. SEM photographs of the surface of the composite nanofiber membrane show that the size of APS is the smallest and the structure is the densest when the concentration of the oxidant is 0.3 mol/L, PAN is uniformly and compactly coated on PAN fibers, which improves the structural compactness of the fiber. The potential application of the PAN/PANI composite nanofiber membrane in functional wearable clothing is demonstrated by testing its anti-electromagnetic shielding performance. This study provides scientific data for the preparation of PAN/PANI composite fiber membranes by in-situ polymerization, and provides a new idea for the development of PAN/PANI composite fiber membranes with high conductivity and anti-electromagnetic radiation. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation of tea stem catechins and their staining and functional modification of silk fabrics FANG Jiaojiao, ZHAO Peihong, ZHAO Yitao, DENG Shuyi, CHEN Xin , CAO Hongmei, Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (6): 1-8.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20240601 Abstract （374）      PDF （2124KB）（124）       Knowledge map    Save As a major tea-producing country, China produces a huge amount of tea stems every year. In order to improve the current situation of tea stems being abandoned, increase the utilization of tea stems, and solve the waste of resources caused by discarded tea stems, the paper investigated the dyeing and function of tea stem pigments. In this paper, catechins were extracted from Tieguanyin tea stems, and LC-MS, UV-visible spectrophotometer, Fourier transform infrared and other instruments were used to identify and analyze the structure of the tea stem extracts. Then, the extract was used to dye silk. The dyeing pH value, dyeing temperature and dyeing time were used as variables, and the Integ value of silk was used as an indicator to explore the optimal dyeing process. Finally, by using the best process for direct dyeing and Al3+ as a pre-mordant dyeing method, the Tieguanyin tea stem extract, Tieguanyin extract and green tea extract were used as dyes to compare the differences in color fastness and functional finishing for dyeing silk between the tea stem extract and tea leaf extracts. The results indicate that LC-MS characterization shows that the Tieguanyin tea stem extract has the same retention time and fragment ion peak as the catechin standard monomer. At the same time, the UV absorption spectrum shows that the extract has strong absorption at 280 nm and has structure of flavanols. The Fourier transform infrared spectrum also shows that the extract contains the same function group as catechins. Therefore, the main component of the Tieguanyin tea stem extract has been determined to be catechins. Under the condition that the catechins dye dosage is 10% (o.w.f) and the liquor ratio is 1:50, the dyeing time is 70 minutes, the dyeing temperature is 80 °C, and the dyeing pH value is 7.5, the Integ value of the silk can reach over 21. The color fastness of silk dyed with Tieguanyin tea stem catechins is the same as those dyed with Tieguanyin catechins and alpine green tea catechins, which can meet the basic requirements of clothing. The UPF values of the silk directly dyed with the three dyes extracted from different sources are 168.84, 150.58, and 150.20 respectively. The UPF values of the silk after mordant dyeing are all more than 230. The Tieguanyin tea stem catechin is slightly higher than the other two catechins extracted from tea. After direct dyeing, the antioxidant properties of the three catechins are 67%, 64%, and 77% respectively. The high mountain green tea catechin is higher than the Tieguanyin tea stem catechins and Tieguanyin catechins, and it is still demonstrated to have the highest antioxidant property after mordant dyeing. In conclusion, although the Tieguanyin tea stem catechin doesn't have the best antioxidant properties, it has satisfactory dyeing effect and functional results as a natural pigment obtained from tea wastes, so it has good application value. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Performance of antibacterial clothing fabric with the composite functions of thermal-moisture comfort LIU Xiaohan, WANG Yuxuan, XIE Wen, ZHANG Hongxia Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (4): 52-59.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20240407 Abstract （381）      PDF （1921KB）（122）       Knowledge map    Save In recent years, multi-functional composite healthy and comfortable fabrics are the development direction of current fabrics. Under the high temperature in summer, the human body will produce a lot of sweat after exercise. As a product in direct contact with the human body, clothing is easy to attach to the skin surface and form a high temperature and humidity climate environment with it, and produce sticky, stuffy and airtight feeling. And because of the porous structure and large specific surface area, it is easy to absorb sweat and a large amount of oil secreted by human metabolism, providing a good environment for the attachment and reproduction of bacteria and other microorganisms. The pungent odor and indirect transmission produced in the process of reproduction are also important sources and transmission routes of diseases, thus bringing hidden dangers to human health. In summer activities and work, a long time of humid and sultry environment will make the skin more prone to allergy and other inflammatory reactions and accelerate skin aging. The development of multi-functional composite fabrics with moisture absorption and quick drying, antibacterial and thermal comfort has a certain market prospect. At present, the thermal-moisture comfort function of fabric is relatively simple, and there is little research on the multifunctional composite of fabrics realized by functional fiber mixing. The fabric modification for the hot and humid environment is mainly for the improvement of the functions such as moisture absorption and quick drying, antibacterial and heat transfer. To develop healthy and comfortable clothing fabrics under humid and hot conditions, a total of 16 types of fabrics, including A and B series, were woven with mulberry silk as warp and a blend of honeycomb antibacterial polyester fibers, tencel, honeycomb UV resistant polyester fibers, and honeycomb jade polyester fibers as weft. By testing the performance of moisture absorption, quick drying, antibacterial and heat transfer, the heat and humidity comfort was evaluated by fuzzy comprehensive analysis. The results show that the moisture absorption and quick drying properties of the yarn is related to its type, weave and density. The inhibitory effect of fabric on S. aureus and E. coli is positively correlated with the content of cellular antibacterial polyester fiber in latitude yarn, and the inhibitory effect of S. aureus is better than that of E. coli. The thermal resistance of fabric decreases with the increase of tencel content in yarn, and the heat transfer performance of fabric is best when honeycomb jade polyester fiber is contained. The results of fuzzy comprehensive analysis indicate that in the A series, the fabric woven with tencel/honeycomb antibacterial polyester fiber/honeycomb ultraviolet resistant polyester fiber (30/60/10) as weft and 16 reinforced weft satin has the best comprehensive performance; the comprehensive performance of the fabric in the B series is the best when the weft density is 46 roots/cm. We explore the influence of fiber content ratio, fabric weave and fabric weft on the antibacterial, thermal-moisture comfort of the blended yarn, and the research results can provide reference for the design and development of multi-functional fabrics, contribute to the development of composite functional fabrics with better comprehensive performance, and promote the development of clothing fabrics in a more high-grade, more accurate and more scientific direction. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Study on silk fabrics modified with reactive deep eutectic solvents and their dyeing properties  XIE Jialing, YANG Sheng, FU Feiya, MA Tingfang, XU Zhaomei, LIU Xiangdong Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (3): 61-72.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20240308 Abstract （246）      PDF （9633KB）（121）       Knowledge map    Save Dyeing wastewater pollution is one of the important bottlenecks that restrict the sustainable development of the textile industry. Promoting the development of green solvents and achieving efficient modification are an important pathway for the green transformation of the textile industry. Deep eutectic solvents (DES) have low cost, easy preparation, and good biodegradability, making them promising in extraction and catalysis fields, but there is limited attention to the functional application of DES components. In this study, a low eutectic solvent composed of betaine (Bet) and lactic acid (LA) was used as both the reaction solvent and reactant for the modification of silk fabrics. The effects of traditional heating and microwave heating on the reaction efficiency were compared, and the morphology, structure, and dyeing properties of the obtained samples were analyzed. The results showed that microwave heating significantly improved the reaction efficiency, and the modified fabric obtained in 15 seconds exhibited characteristic peaks of C=O and CH3-N+ groups at 1,733 cm-1 and 1,475 cm-1 in the ATR-FTIR spectrum, as well as a new -CONH- peak at 1,650 cm-1. The XPS wide scan spectrum showed a shift and increased area of the C-N peak, as well as the appearance of the CH3-N+ group signal peak, confirming the successful introduction of betaine from the DES into the silk fabric. The modified fabric showed a slight increase in surface roughness, an increase in crystallinity from 71.57% to 78.57%, and a 2.8% improvement in tensile strength. The surface charge of the fabric increased from -26.35 mV to 5.57 mV, resulting in a 58-fold increase in dye uptake on the fabric, with the dyeing K/S value increasing from 0.075 to 4.071. The optimal dyeing process was determined as follows: Na2CO3 concentration of 2 g/L, dyeing temperature of 50 ℃, and dyeing time of 80 minutes. Furthermore, the study demonstrated that the breathability of the modified fabric remained relatively unchanged, while the moisture absorption increased from 268.37% to 335.12%. This study provides a new scientific basis for the modification of silk fabrics and the multifunctional application of low eutectic solvent components. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Identification of pomegranate peel plant dye and its dyed cashmere fiber GUI Zuwen, HE Jianfeng, XU Haoning, CHEN Shenghang, YU Zhicheng, HOU Zhanchang, CHEN Chao Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (6): 18-27.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20240603 Abstract （401）      PDF （9987KB）（117）       Knowledge map    Save In recent years, the international community has paid close attention to global environmental issues, and the concept of sustainable development has gradually become the theme of social development. With the popularization of the concept of ecology, health and environmental protection, the application of natural dyes in textiles has been paid more and more attention. At present, plant dyes are one of the most important sources of natural dyes. A variety of plant dyes have been applied in textiles. Pomegranate peel, as a renewable resource, is one of the common plant dyes and has been widely used in the field of ecological textile dyeing. However, there is no corresponding identification method and standard for pomegranate peel plant dyes on the market. In order to improve the lack of plant dyeing standard system, it is necessary to establish the identification method and standard of pomegranate peel plant dyes. In order to improve the lack of plant dyeing standard system and establish the identification method and standard of pomegranate peel plant dyes, this paper studies the identification of pomegranate peel plant dyes and their dyed cashmere fibers. Firstly, the pomegranate peel plant dyes were tested by ultraviolet spectrophotometer to determine the markers for identifying pomegranate peel plant dyes. Then, the standard substance, pomegranate peel plant dye and its dyed cashmere fiber extract were detected by ultraviolet spectrophotometer and liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry in negative ion mode. By comparing the retention time and mass spectrum of the dye, the dyed cashmere fiber extract and the standard substance, and combining with the characteristic peaks contained in its ultraviolet-visible absorption spectrum, a perfect identification standard system was established to identify whether the dye and cashmere fiber were pure pomegranate peel plant dye and its dyed cashmere fiber. The experimental results show that punicalagin and ellagic acid can be used as markers to identify pomegranate peel plant dyes and their dyed cashmere fibers. The quasi-molecular ion peak m/z 300.9862 was detected in the mass spectrometry of pomegranate peel plant dyes, and the retention time was 1.02 min. The quasi-molecular ion peaks m/z 300.9896 and 300.9868 were detected in the mass spectrometry of direct dyeing and ferrous sulfate post-mordanting cashmere fiber extract, and the retention time was 1.02 min and 1.04 min, respectively. Both of them were similar to the peak time of ellagic acid standard at 1.02 min. In the range of ±2.5 % deviation allowed by the standard, combined with the fact that the UV-visible absorption spectrum only contained gallic acid at 277 nm and ellagic acid at 255 and 357 nm, it could be determined that the dye and its dyed cashmere fiber were pure pomegranate peel plant dyes. At present, although a variety of identification methods and standards for plant dyes have been established, there is still a lack of standard systems for some plant dyes in the market, and consumers cannot verify the conformity of products from the standards. Therefore, in order to enable consumers to purchase satisfactory plant dye products, identifying the corresponding plant dyes and their dyed fabrics is still the top priority in the development of plant dyes. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Fabrication and functional study of graphene/polyacrylonitrile skin core structural fibers CUI Ruiqi, SHANG Yuanyuan, LI Juanjuan, ZHANG Hao, SHI Baohui, FANG Kuanjun Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (12): 1-9.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20241201 Abstract （294）      PDF （12472KB）（117）       Knowledge map    Save Graphene, as a new type of two-dimensional carbon nanomaterial, has emerged as a prominent research focus in recent years due to its unique composition and excellent conductivity, thermal conductivity, and mechanical properties. The graphene fiber, a novel carbon-based fiber crafted from graphene layers, inherits the advantages of graphene, such as lightweight and flexibility. In many practical applications, balancing the multiple properties of graphene fibers can be challenging, and it is necessary to choose a suitable spinning method to regulate the chemical composition and structure of graphene fibers and polymers, so as to broaden the application field of graphene-based fibers.  Polyacrylonitrile is a synthetic fiber with good elasticity and weather resistance. It can be used in industrial production through wet spinning and can be combined with graphene incorporation to obtain high-performance composite fibers. Microfluidic spinning technology is a new type of spinning technology developed on the basis of microfluidic chip technology, which is combined with wet spinning technology to build a microfluidic wet spinning system. Microfluidic chip technology enables precise control over the microstructure of spinning solutions and is characterized by a high degree of miniaturization, integration, and cost-effectiveness. This article utilizes microfluidic wet spinning technology to prepare a novel type of conductive fiber with a core-sheath structure. By precisely adjusting the spinning fluid inside the microfluidic chip spinning channel, the spinning fluid exhibits laminar flow characteristics in the microchannel. Through a simple process, the directional control of graphene in the fiber outer layer is achieved, fully utilizing the high conductivity and high specific surface area of the outer layer material, as well as the mechanical properties of the core layer polyacrylonitrile fiber. As the flow rate of the composite fiber layer increases, the arrangement of graphene in the fiber layer gradually becomes standardized under shear stress and compression in the microfluidic chip channel, forming a continuous conductive path. The article studied the morphology, mechanical properties, and electrical properties of skin core fibers. In SEM images and stress-strain curves, compared with pure polyacrylonitrile fibers, the diameter and strength of composite fibers showed a trend of first increasing and then decreasing with the increase of skin solution. The resistance of core-sheath composite fibers decreased and the conductivity increased. When the skin flow rate reached a certain value, due to the aggregation of graphene in microchannels, the conductivity of the composite fibers decreased, and their mechanical properties also declined. It could be found that by applying different voltages at both ends of the composite fiber to test the electrical heating performance of the composite fiber, the highest temperature reached by the fiber and the heating rate per second vary under different voltages. The higher the voltage applied at both ends of the fiber, the greater the maximum temperature reached and the heating rate also increases. The test shows that the core-sheath fibers had good thermal stability and electrical cycling, and the voltage at both ends of the composite fiber could be quickly heated to the expected temperature. Functional heating conductive fibers are poised for long-term development in the textile industry, driven by intelligent production processes and technologies. The study of microfluidic wet spinning of graphene and polyacrylonitrile in this article can provide some reference for the development and application of conductive fibers. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress on low-salt and salt-free dyeing of cellulose fiber with reactive dyes ZHANG Hongjuan, WANG Huiqiang, SHEN Chuliang, WANG Jiping, CAO Jingpei Advanced Textile Technology    2025, 33 (04): 13-25.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20250402 Abstract （491）      PDF （1530KB）（114）       Knowledge map    Save When dyeing cotton fibers with reactive dyes in the traditional water bath system, a large number of neutral inorganic salts need to be added to address the charge repulsion between the dye anions and the fibers in order to improve the reactive dye utilization. At the same time, a large amount of alkali must be used to ensure that the reactive dye can fully covalently bond with the fibers. However, the large amount of inorganic salts will lead to super high salt content in the dyeing wastewater, which increases the difficulty and cost of post-processing. At the same time, inorganic salt has brought a great threat to the ecological environment and water resources. Therefore, the low-salt and salt-free dyeing technology has become a hot spot in the current printing and dyeing industry. In order to realize the clean dyeing process of cellulose fibers with water saving, energy saving, high efficiency and ecological protection, researchers have done a lot of work.  In this paper, the problems and limitations in the development of low-salt and salt-free dyeing technology were summarized from the development of new dye molecular structure (original structure modification and cationic reactive dyes), multi-functional substitute salts development and application, low-salt dyeing additives, cellulose modification, and non-aqueous medium dyeing technology. For the traditional water bath system, the modification of the reactive group, water-soluble group or chromophore on the structure of the existing reactive dyes, or the redevelopment of cationic reactive dyes, all have the problems of high cost, few categories, and incomplete chromatography. It is very low to realize salt-free and low-salt dyeing process as well as water saving and emission reduction by using other organic substitute salt, or crosslinking agent. Although widely studied cationic modification technology of cotton fabrics can reduce the dosage of inorganic salts, cationic modification and dyeing cannot be carried out in the same bath. This process requires pre-treatment of cotton fabrics, which has the problem of long process, high production cost, and difficulty in controlling the dyeing evenness. In addition, small bath ratio, electrochemical dyeing, and suspension dyeing have high requirements for dyes and poor universality. As for the new non-aqueous medium dyeing technology, the medium used in the early reported organic solvent dyeing technology is highly toxic and difficult to recover. While, the most reported supercritical CO2 dyeing cannot make cotton fibers swell, resulting in low dye adsorption rate and dyeing depth. In addition, the dyeing process needs to be completed under ultra-high pressure, which has the problems of low operational safety and high equipment cost.  At present, the non-aqueous medium dyeing technology using high boiling point D5 as the medium has achieved remarkable results. But this technology also needs special dyeing equipment (dyeing, recycling, etc.) in the early stage, and the investment cost is high. Therefore, it is imperative to develop an economical, universal, water-saving, and emission-reducing non-aqueous medium dyeing technology in the future. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Visual Analysis of Mongolian Costume Research Progress Based on CiteSpace GUO Xiaofanga, b, ZHANG Weishia, ZHANG Ruixiaa, b Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (5): 84-96.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20240511 Abstract （596）      PDF （9404KB）（111）       Knowledge map    Save Mongolian costume is an important part of China's excellent traditional culture, with rich historical and cultural connotations, and plays a crucial role in traditional ethnic cultural inheritance and promoting the spirit of nations. At present, there is relatively little literature on Mongolian clothing research abroad, while domestic research are more abundant and have shown a clearer development line. But in general, the scope involved is not broad and comprehensive, and there are more studies on the costume of specific Mongolian tribes, while there is a lack of systemic and general sorting and analysis based on the Mongolian clothing as a whole. In order to better promote the inheritance and development of Mongolian costume and to analyze the overall situation, status and hot trends of the current research, 503 articles closely related to the research of Mongolian costume in the past 40 years in the database of CNKI and the core collection database of WOS were used as the research samples, and the bibliometric software CiteSpace was used to visually present and analyze the number of articles, source journals, core authors, research institutions, keywords co-occurrence and clustering, related research hotspots, and emergent words. Keywords clustering analysis were used to categorize the current research status of Mongolian clothing by themes and to classify its research stages according to keywords emergence map. The results show that in the field of Mongolian costume related research, the number of published articles shows an overall trend of increasing year by year since 1983, especially it was included in the list of China's national intangible cultural heritage after 2008, and the research value of Mongolian clothing is continuously increasing. At this stage, the research scholars and publishing journals are relatively limited, most of them are local scholars and local publishing journals in Inner Mongolia. The research institutions to which the authors belong show obvious regional limitations due to the regional influence of Mongolian costume, and inter-institutional cooperation is relatively loose, with less cross-school and cross-regional cooperation. It is recommended that scholars in this field should further enhance their cooperation to expand their research content and improve the quality of their publishing articles. Based on the keywords co-occurrence map, 36 high-frequency keywords were screened out and clustered into 15 research groups, which were categorized into four major thematic categories basing on the current status of Mongolian costume research: historical development and cultural mixture, basic attributes of the clothing, cultural inheritance and development, and modern innovative design. Based on the keywords emergence map, the research on Mongolian clothing were divided into three stages based on research hotspots: the period from 1999 to 2009 belongs to the research phase of historical development and evolution of Mongolian clothing, the period from 2010 to 2016 belongs to the research phase of Mongolian costumes ontology, and the period from 2017 to 2023 belongs to the research phase of Mongolian clothing inheritance, protection, and innovative design. In the future, there will be a boom of innovative design in which diverse costume cultures are mixed with modern science and technology. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research on the urine leakage frequency monitoring system based on intelligent flexible fabric sensors ZHOU Jinli, WANG Zheng, ZHOU Zhiting, LI Yunfei, XIONG Fan, LI Hongping Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (3): 91-101.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20240311 Abstract （792）      PDF （5519KB）（109）       Knowledge map    Save Urinary incontinence (UI) refers to a condition in which urine cannot be controlled and leaks out on its own when abdominal pressure increases during exercise, sneezing, coughing, laughing, etc. According to statistics, approximately 200 million people worldwide suffer from urinary incontinence. The proportion of female patients is significantly higher than that of male patients, and the prevalence gradually increases with age. In China, the incidence of urinary incontinence in adult women is about 30.9%, that is, one in every three women suffers from this disease. Urinary incontinence is usually long-lasting, difficult to diagnose, non-fatal, and difficult to treat. Therefore, compared with normal people, the quality of life and sleep quality of patients with urinary incontinence are significantly lower, and their depression is more severe, which seriously affects their daily life. The treatment of patients with urinary incontinence is a difficult medical problem, and currently, patients with urinary incontinence have low medical seeking rates. Most patients' lack of knowledge about urinary incontinence is an important factor affecting their intention to seek medical treatment. UI is judged based on the International Advisory Committee on Urinary Incontinence Questionnaire (ICI-Q-SF), which includes four questions, namely, to assess the frequency of urinary leakage, the amount of urine leakage, the impact of urinary incontinence, and the cause of urinary incontinence. Tables can be used to investigate the incidence of urinary incontinence and the extent to which it affects patients. Hospitals use a urine pad test to evaluate urinary incontinence. In clinical practice, a one-hour urine pad test is generally used to determine urine leakage. That is, the patient is allowed to drink pure water for 15 minutes and then perform 30 minutes of appropriate exercise such as walking and climbing stairs, and the test lasts for 15 minutes by repeating standing and sitting ≥10 times, coughing ≥10 times, running in place for one minute, bending down five times, and finally washing hands for one minute to end the test. The test detection process is cumbersome, involves long waiting time, low repeatability, and even has a certain degree of subjectivity. With the development of science and technology, the technological innovation of smart wearable textiles has been widely used in monitoring urinary incontinence. This is an innovation in the medical field that applies advanced technology. Its core is to integrate flexible sensors and electronic components into textiles and enable it to monitor urinary frequency and other related data in patients with urinary incontinence. Smart wearable textiles include sensors embedded in textiles that can detect the flow of urine, changes in resistance, or other related parameters. Through data transmission and processing, the occurrence of urinary incontinence events can be captured and recorded, including the frequency and amount of urine leakage. Some systems can also be integrated with mobile apps or cloud services so that data can be accessed and monitored at any time by healthcare professionals or patients themselves. Because these devices incorporate technologies such as flexible sensors, wireless communication, and data processing, they are portable, miniaturized, intelligent, and capable of real-time monitoring. Compared with traditional monitoring methods, this technology is more private and does not involve embarrassing testing processes. Therefore, smart flexible wearable textiles have begun to be used to monitor the condition of urinary incontinence patients, bringing convenience and accuracy to urinary incontinence monitoring, which is expected to improve patients' quality of life and promote the development of medical care. The frequency of urinary leakage is an important indicator for evaluating the condition of urinary incontinence patients. The higher the frequency of urinary leakage, the more serious the condition. In order to accurately diagnose the frequency of urinary leakage in each urinary incontinence patient and further address this problem, we proposed a method using intelligent flexible fabric sensors, silver-plated yarn and non-woven fabric as sensing materials for functional electrodes and designs. We designed the sensing structure and sensing pattern, and used hot melt technology to embed these functional electrodes into disposable diapers specially used for urinary incontinence patients to create functional smart diapers. At the same time, we improved and optimized the main control chip nRF5283, and wrote a data median filtering program to preprocess the urinary frequency signal. Based on the change in resistance value in the functional electrode that reflects the frequency of urine leakage, we optimally selected the conduction spacing and pattern of the sensor and conducted performance tests. Experimental results show that each electrode module of pattern C with a conduction spacing of 0.6 cm can be detected more than 15 times, with an average accuracy of 86.2% and a sensitivity of 73.5 kΩ/0.1 mL, achieving the expected goals. This smart flexible fabric sensor can be used to assess the basic health status of urinary incontinence patients and provides a simple method to prepare smart flexible fabric sensors to monitor urinary frequency. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation of SiO2 aerogel aromatic microcapsules/PVA blend fibers and their slow-release properties SONG Peiju, TANG Junsong, GAO Guohong, MA Mingbo, ZHOU Wenlong Advanced Textile Technology    2025, 33 (03): 1-7.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20250301 Abstract （247）      PDF （11502KB）（108）       Knowledge map    Save The aerogel particle is a kind of ultra-light material with a three-dimensional porous network structure and a high porosity within. The porous structure and excellent mechanical stability of aerogel make it an ideal carrier for essence, phase change materials and even drugs, and an ideal material for preparing slow-release microcapsules. To explore the application of aerogel particles in the preparation of aromatic fibers, the SiO2 aerogel microcapsules loaded with essence were mixed into polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) spinning solution, and PVA aromatic fibers were prepared by wet spinning process. The effect of  the addition amount of aromatic microcapsule on the viscosity and dispersion of the spinning solution, morphology, basic properties, and slow-release performance of the aromatic fibers were studied.  It was found that with the increase of the amount of SiO2 aerogel aromatic microcapsules, the viscosity of PVA spinning solution gradually increased, and the microcapsules gradually clustered in the spinning solution. When the addition amount was higher than 7%, the aromatic microcapsules exhibited obvious agglomeration phenomenon in the spinning solution, making the spinning process more difficult. Aromatic fibers were prepared from PVA spinning solution containing 4% of SiO2 aerogel aromatic microcapsules, and the longitudinal morphology of the obtained fibers was basically the same as that of pure PVA fibers. The aerogel aromatic microcapsules were embedded in the fibers and well dispersed. SiO2 aerogel aromatic microcapsules and the prepared aromatic fibers have excellent slow-release properties. After being placed at room temperature for 60 days, their essence release rates were only 22.2% and 13.4%, and their fragrance retention performance was significantly better than that of aromatic microcapsules and aromatic fabrics prepared by conventional polymer embedding method, such as polymethyl methacrylate, melamine/formaldehyde resin and polyurethane. The thermal properties and tensile mechanical properties of PVA fibers decreased significantly after the addition of SiO2 aerogel aromatic microcapsules. This probably resulted from the increase of void space in the fibers caused by aromatic microcapsules; aromatic microcapsules also interfered with orientation arrangement and crystallization formation of PVA fibers, causing a disordered aggregation structure of in the blend fibers. This study is of great significance for the application of aerogel particles in the preparation of slow-release functional microcapsules and their functional fibers. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Parallel Electrode Electroluminescent Yarn Construction Molding and its Water Rescue Wearable Application ZHAO Shikang, WANG Hang, TIAN Mingwei Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (4): 45-51.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20240406 Abstract （454）      PDF （6218KB）（107）       Knowledge map    Save Electroluminescent yarn has been a research hotspot in recent decades due to its extensive prospect in the field of intelligent display applications, such as human-computer interaction and emergency warning. The basic principle of electroluminescence is the phenomenon of electric current excitation to produce light, specifically when the current passes through some specific materials, it will excite the electronic energy level transition in the material, thereby emitting visible or near-infrared light. However, the DC drive mode of organic light-emitting diodes and quantum dot-based light-emitting diodes limits their practical application. This is because unidirectional DC flow can lead to unfavorable charge accumulation at high current densities. In addition, power loss is unavoidable. Therefore, AC-driven electroluminescent devices have attracted attention for various applications. At present, the main preparation methods of luminescent fibers include integrated circuit method, spraying method and intercalation method. The integrated circuit method is mainly achieved by integrating luminescent materials, electrode fibers and other components; The spraying method is to spray the luminescent material in the form of a solution or powder on the conductive wire, and encapsulate it with an insulating material; The embedding method is mainly prepared by embedding luminescent materials into yarns. However, in the molding process of light-emitting optical fiber, there are inevitably shortcomings such as time-consuming production process and high cost, which greatly limits the large-scale production of outgoing light-emitting optical fiber and restricts its practical application. Therefore, there are still significant challenges in developing a cost-effective and feasible method to manufacture luminescent fibers/yarns. Therefore, in this paper, a parallel electrode electroluminescent yarn structure is designed, and a parallel electrode electroluminescent yarn is prepared by using zinc sulfide doped copper (ZnS: Gu) electroluminescent composite material as the luminescent layer and conductive silver-plated yarn as the flexible electrode. The luminous yarn can reach a brightness of up to 161.71 cd/m2 (700 V, 8 kHz), and PELF  - 60%has good wearing performance and water insulation properties, which can be used for water rescue and warning clothing, and has a broad application prospect in visual interaction and environmental warning. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress of fabric friction performance test system TIAN Yuan, DU Zhaoqun, ZHENG Dongming, ZOU Haochen Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (4): 125-140.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20240415 Abstract （457）      PDF （14944KB）（107）       Knowledge map    Save Friction performance is an important index to measure the friction behavior of fabric materials, which is of great significance for the design, production and application of textiles. With the development of textile science and technology, the research and improvement of fabric friction performance test system has attracted more and more attention, because friction determines the quality of fiber products processing links such as spinning, weaving, knitting and finishing. As one of the most basic mechanical properties of the fabric, the friction performance of the fabric surface affects the fabric style and wearability. Fabric style is the comprehensive effect of the inherent properties of the fabric itself on the human senses. The surface friction performance of the fabric affects the tactile style evaluation of the smoothness, slipperiness and waxiness, and clamminess of the fabric, and gives the fabric a rich surface handle. In order to better evaluate the performance of the fabric in the friction process, the friction performance of the fabric was quantitatively and qualitatively evaluated. The research and development of the fabric friction performance test system were reviewed. The research background, friction mechanism and research process of fabric friction were introduced. Starting from the material of the friction part in contact with the fabric, the fabric-metal friction, fabric-fabric friction and fabric-skin/skin-like fabric surface friction performance test devices were introduced. When friction occurs within or between fabrics and between fabrics and other substances, there will be low-frequency vibration, which will produce a sound spectrum and affect the fabric’s acoustic style. More and more people have realized that fabric sound is one of the key factors that determine the performance of fabrics. By studying the sound generated by fabric friction, the acoustic characteristics related to fabric structural factors and auditory sensation are determined to meet the growing consumer demand for fabrics’ auditory properties affecting clothing comfort. The test method of fabric friction sound was introduced, but there is no universal test instrument for fabric friction sound test device in the world. The research of the fabric friction performance test system aims to accurately and reliably evaluate the friction performance of fabric materials, provide scientific basis for textile design and application, and is of great significance in the field of textile science and technology. The surface friction performance of the fabric will also affect its wearability, that is, the comfort of the fabric, and the surface friction performance of the fabric will also have a certain impact on the post-processing and some special functions. Through in-depth understanding of the friction behavior and performance characteristics of fabrics, it can provide scientific basis for the design, production and application of fabric materials, and promote the development and innovation of the textile industry. However, further research and improvement of test methods are still needed to improve the accuracy and practicability of the test system to meet the needs of the developing textile industry. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics