Table of Content

10 July 2025, Volume 33 Issue 07

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Research progress in single-sheet separation technology of flexible fiber sheets

QI Lulua, YU Yongmina, b, GU Minghuia, b, MEI Shunqia, b, HUANG Jiale

2025, 33(07):  1-11.  DOI: 10.12477/j.att.202409047

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Fiber sheets can be classified into three main categories based on their production processes and structures: woven fabrics, non-woven fabrics and paper. Due to their characteristics of softness and lightness, coupled with fast production speeds, high output, low costs, and a wide range of raw material sources, they have found widespread applications in textile and apparel, medical and hygiene, industrial production, and daily life. 
To meet the needs of automated equipment, scholars at home and abroad have developed various separation methods, including air-flow adsorption separation, friction separation, electrostatic separation, air-flow induction separation, needle-punch suction cup separation, and robotic grasping separation. Among these, needle-punch suction cup grasping separation, robotic grasping separation, air-flow adsorption separation, and electrostatic adsorption separation are more widely used in the single-sheet separation of woven fabrics. When robotic grasping and needle-punch suction cup methods are used for separation, the reliability is relatively high, but the structure of the fiber sheet can be easily damaged, making it impossible to guarantee a damage-free separation. Air-flow adsorption separation does not directly contact the material during the separation process, which helps avoid contamination and damage. However, in separating thin, soft, and easily deformable fiber sheets, it tends to absorb multiple sheets at once, affecting its accuracy and reliability. Electrostatic separation has advantages such as high efficiency, energy-saving, and environmental friendliness, but it requires specific environmental conditions and is difficult to achieve a damage-free and stable separation effect. Friction separation and air-flow induction separation are mainly used for single-sheet separation of paper products. Friction separation has a simple structure and high reliability but consumes more energy and has limited applicability. For single-sheet separation of non-woven fabric in stacked conditions, manual operation is still required, and there is currently a lack of precise, efficient, and damage-free automated separation technology.
Given the current issues in the single-sheet separation process of fiber sheets, such as structural damage, low separation accuracy and reliability, and insufficient separation efficiency, to achieve efficient and precise single-sheet separation of stacked fiber sheets, it is imperative to develop separation devices that are efficient, economical, and highly reliable in the future, so as to facilitate efficient integration with robotic arms. Continuous optimization of the separation mechanism is required to enhance the success rate and precision of single-sheet separation of fiber sheets. Additionally, the development of separation mechanisms with a broader range of applications is required, not only suitable for non-woven fabrics but also for other flexible sheets. In the future, based on the realization of automated separation of fiber sheets, artificial intelligence technologies such as image recognition and machine vision should be integrated to replace humans in executing specific tasks in a more efficient and precise manner. This will optimize the use of human resources, allowing them to be more focused on high-value activities such as innovation, decision-making, and complex problem-solving.


Research progress in indigo clean dyeing technology

ZHU Hejin a, , CHEN Jiahao b, , WEN Shuiping a, LIU Xufeng a, CHEN Guichun

2025, 33(07):  12-22.  DOI: 10.12477/j.att.202408042

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In response to the environmental issues caused by the use of indigo dyes, the development of clean indigo dyeing technologies has become a focal point of research. In recent years, technologies such as green reducing agents for indigo, electrochemical reduction, biological reduction of indigo, indigo foam dyeing without oxygen, in-situ dyeing, nitrogen-protected dyeing, and non-aqueous medium dyeing have been developed. This article reviews the principles, development, and challenges of these technologies and provides an outlook for future indigo clean dyeing technology.
The review found that one of the major challenges in developing green alternative reducing agents lies in identifying reducing agents that can match the high reduction potential of indigo and activate its reducing capacity, while ensuring recyclability. Biological reduction technology is still in its early stages and requires improvements in the catalytic efficiency of enzymes or cells, along with considerations of their stability, reusability, adaptability to the environment, and specificity, to meet the needs of industrial production. In electrochemically reducing indigo, improving reduction efficiency, current efficiency, and rate, as well as controlling hydrogen evolution side reactions, are crucial for the application of this technology. Additionally, addressing the separation and recovery of mediators in indirect electrocatalytic reduction is crucial for reducing material loss and enhancing economic and environmental benefits. Some of the core innovations in other novel indigo clean dyeing methods focus on precisely controlling the early oxidation process of indigo leuco dye or abandoning the traditional reduction-dyeing mechanism. These innovations not only significantly reduce resource consumption but also greatly enhance dyeing quality. However, in practical applications, these advanced technologies still face a series of challenges.
Looking forward, advancements in mechanical and chemical engineering will bring innovative opportunities for clean indigo dyeing. Indigo clean dyeing technology is expected to integrate electrochemical reduction, biological reduction, green reducing agents, and pre-reduced indigo products to form environmentally friendly and efficient solutions. At the same time, methods for controlling the early oxidation of indigo leuco dye and dyeing in non-aqueous media will be further optimized to enhance dyeing effects. On the other hand, process optimization and cost control will be key focuses of future research. Although new methods are environmentally friendly and have shown promising results in industrial demonstrations, equipment costs, operational complexity, and market acceptance remain challenges for their widespread adoption. Future research will concentrate on process optimization to reduce the use of water, energy, and chemicals, so as to reduce costs and promote the widespread application of clean dyeing technology to achieve a green transformation in indigo dyeing.


CFD simulation of the aqueous suspension polymerization process of acrylonitrile #br#

YUAN Dong, CAO Xiaolei, CHEN Ye

2025, 33(07):  23-31.  DOI: 10.12477/j.att.202410034

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Among various types of carbon fibers, PAN-based carbon fibers have become the most significant component of high-grade carbon fiber product series due to their excellent mechanical properties. The industrial preparation of PAN fibers typically involves an aqueous suspension polymerization process. In the production of acrylic fibers, the polymerization process prior to spinning is a critical step that determines product quality. Among the factors influencing this process, the mixing effect is vital for enhancing product quality. Uniform mixing ensures the consistent distribution of reactants, thereby maintaining the stability of polymerization rate, and significantly influencing molecular weight distribution and the overall quality of the fibers.
To enhance the mixing effect within the reactor, this paper employed computational fluid dynamics (CFD) technology to model and conduct numerical simulations of the aqueous suspension polymerization process of acrylonitrile. Based on experimentally measured kinetic and rheological data, complex transport models and reaction kinetic models, such as the reaction rate equations and reaction heat equations for various substances, were transferred into Fluent software using C language to create user-defined function (UDF). The resulting CFD model integrates coupled flow mixing, mass and heat transfer, and polymerization reaction processes. The numerical simulation method was utilized to investigate the distribution patterns of velocity fields, components change, temperature fields, and polymerization products within the reactor during the polymerization process. By utilizing moment equations, the infinite-dimensional terms in the dead polymer reaction rate equations were converted into finite dimensions, enabling the solution of polymerization product quality indicators such as molecular weight distribution index and molecular weight.
The simulation results briefly demonstrate the patterns of temperature distribution and monomer distribution within the polymerization reactor, highlighting the complexity and inhomogeneity of the rheological behavior of the reaction medium inside the reactor. This underscores the importance of reactor structural design. In comparing the simulation results with actual production data, the errors in inlet and outlet temperature rise, monomer conversion rate, molecular weight, and molecular weight distribution index are all within 15%. This, to a certain extent, validates the feasibility and accuracy of the numerical calculation model. This method also provides important theoretical reference for the enhancement of polymerization processes and the design and scaling-up of reactors. 


Preparation of LiCl@MOF-based nonwoven materials and their properties of atmospheric water harvesting

ZHENG Yinxia, ZHAO Huiru, SHEN Xiao, LI Dawei, LIU Qingsheng, LI Haoxuan

2025, 33(07):  32-38.  DOI: 10.12477/j.att.202410013

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In response to the serious challenge of global water scarcity, researchers are dedicated to developing highly efficient air water harvesting materials that possess the capability to efficiently capture and release water molecules. Under this background, metal-organic frameworks (MOFs) have emerged as prominent candidates among various materials for air water harvesting due to their high specific surface area, high porosity, excellent adsorption properties, and low desorption temperature. However, MOF materials are mostly used in powder form, which presents issues such as easy agglomeration, difficulty in molding, and long desorption times. Given that viscose fiber nonwoven materials resemble traditional fabrics in appearance and exhibit high flexibility, strength, hygroscopicity, air permeability, and porosity, they have become ideal carriers in the field of air water harvesting. Therefore, this study prepares a highly hygroscopic material, LiCl@MOF powder, using MOF-303 and lithium chloride (LiCl) as the base materials. By leveraging the adhesive properties of polydopamine (PDA), a bond is established between LiCl@MOF and viscose fiber nonwoven materials to produce LiCl@MOF-based nonwoven materials. 
For the purpose of achieving multiple cycles in the adsorption-desorption process of LiCl@MOF- based nonwoven materials, researchers used interfacial evaporation technology and chose viscose fiber nonwoven materials with photothermal conversion properties as the carrier. This enabled LiCl@MOF-based nonwoven materials to achieve efficient capture and release of water vapor. At night, the LiCl@MOF-based nonwoven materials leveraged their high porosity and hydrophilicity to adsorb and immobilize water vapor from the environment; while at daytime, the photothermal desorption function of the LiCl@MOF-based nonwoven material was used to convert the absorbed sunlight into thermal energy, accelerating the desorption and liquefaction of the water vapor adsorbed at night. This composite material not only enhanced the adsorption performance for water vapor in the air but also provided flexibility and cuttability to the air water harvesting material.
With the view of comprehensively evaluating the performance of LiCl@MOF-based nonwoven materials, tests were conducted on their morphology, crystal structure, composition, physical properties, and adsorption-desorption capabilities. The experimental results showed that LiCl@MOF was tightly adhered to the viscose fibers, and the crystal structure of MOF-303 was confirmed through XRD patterns. The physical property tests indicated that the wettability of the viscose fiber nonwoven material remained unchanged after being coupled with LiCl@MOF powder, while its mechanical properties, air permeability, and average pore size of the fibers decreased. Under dynamic conditions where the relative humidity (RH) increased from 30% to 95%, the water vapor adsorption capacity of the LiCl@MOF-based nonwoven material ranged from 0.3 to 5.06 g·g⁻¹. Under static conditions at an RH of 90%, its water vapor adsorption capacity was 4.9 g·g⁻¹. Meanwhile, when exposed to one sun intensity of irradiation, the material's temperature rapidly rose above 80 °C, and desorption was completed within 20 minutes. After multiple adsorption-desorption cycles, its adsorption performance was stabilized at 4.9 g·g-1 under static conditions, demonstrating its excellent cyclic stability.


An experimental study on the anti-fragmentation penetration  of soft bulletproof layers made of unidirectional UHMWPE fabric

REN Anke, WANG Xucai, WANG Wei, LU Zhenyu, LI Baoding, PENG Gang

2025, 33(07):  39-47.  DOI: 10.12477/j.att.202501005

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UHMWPE fibers represent the third generation of high-performance fibers, following carbon fibers and aramid fibers. They boast multiple advantages such as high modulus, high strength, and excellent energy absorption characteristics. UHMWPE fibers are notably lightweight, being approximately 20% lighter than conventional aramid fibers and 30% lighter than carbon fiber-reinforced composites. The molecular chains of UHMWPE fibers possess an extremely high linearity, with their mechanical properties further enhanced by high orientation and crystallization during the spinning process. The molecular structure with high orientation and crystallization   provides UHMWPE fibers with exceptional strength and modulus. Additionally, it demonstrates excellent energy absorption and acoustic emission transmission capabilities under dynamic loading conditions. Overall, due to its unique molecular structure and outstanding mechanical properties, UHMWPE fibers hold significant application potential in the field of lightweight and high-strength composites, especially in the area of personal protection. Therefore, conducting experimental research on the anti-fragmentation penetration of soft bulletproof layers made of unidirectional UHMWPE fabric is crucial for optimizing body armor design to enhance their safety. 
Soft bulletproof layers are a crucial component of bulletproof vests, and ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) fibers are widely utilized within these soft ballistic layers. This study focused on soft bulletproof layers made of unidirectional UHMWPE fabric to conduct fragmentation penetration tests using two different shapes of targets: flat-head and wedge-head ones. A 1.1g cylindrical simulated fragment was employed for these tests to determine the ballistic ultimate velocity, known as V50. Image J software was utilized to measure the damage areas of bullet holes of each layer, in order to analyze the damage morphology caused by the fragments and study the ballistic penetration mechanism under different target-hitting morphologies. The results revealed that when fragments penetrate the soft bulletproof layers in the two different morphologies at similar impact velocities, the total damage area to a single layer of unidirectional fabric is comparable. The ballistic limit (V50) for fragments impacting with a flat head is, on average, 4.01% higher than that for fragments impacting with a wedge head. Additionally, the ultimate energy absorption of the soft bulletproof layer when fragments impact with a flat head is, on average, 8.19% higher than that when fragments impact with a wedge head. Furthermore, as the areal density increases, the energy absorbed per unit areal density by the unidirectional UHMWPE fabric soft ballistic layer decreases.
The unidirectional UHMWPE fabric soft ballistic layer is a key component of soft body armor and is commonly used in military, police, and civilian personal protective equipment. Research on the anti-penetration mechanisms and the penetration process of the soft bulletproof layers made of unidirectional UHMWPE fabric has been enhanced to provide a theoretical foundation and technical support for the effective design of soft body armor.  


Preparation and performance characterization of coated yarns with negative Poisson's ratio 

WU Mengmeng a, HE Guangyun a, YU Zhicai b, WU Meiqin a, LIU Sai a

2025, 33(07):  48-63.  DOI: 10.12477/j.att.202410040

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Negative Poisson's ratio materials, emerging as a novel class in recent years, exhibit a unique behavior where they expand laterally when stretched and contract laterally when compressed. These materials not only possess geometric deformation characteristics, but also demonstrate excellent shear resistance, indentation resistance, fracture toughness, shock absorption, energy absorption, moisture and air permeability, as well as surface conformability. These unconventional physical properties endow negative Poisson's ratio materials with distinct advantages, leading to their widespread application across various fields, including composites, sensors, and smart wearable devices. Among negative Poisson's ratio materials, negative Poisson's ratio yarns and fabrics constitute a significant category. First of all, negative Poisson's ratio yarns boast strong maneuverability, allowing the yarn to exhibit good negative Poisson's ratio properties through structural modifications. Secondly, these yarns and fabrics have a broad range of applications. By introducing this characteristic into yarns and designing their structure, auxetic effects can be achieved in textile materials.
In order to produce negative Poisson's ratio yarns with excellent and stable negative Poisson's ratio characteristics, this study used spandex as the core yarn and polyester filament as the wrapping yarn to prepare the composite yarn on a 16-spindle knitting machine. The wrapping yarn was spirally wrapped around the core yarn, imparting excellent negative Poisson's ratio characteristics to the composite yarn. The 10:1 ratio of polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) rubber solution was used as the coating material. The PDMS solution was dripped onto the yarn and allowed to naturally flow down along the yarn under gravity, ensuring uniform coating. The yarn was then left to stand for 20 minutes to eliminate any bubbles. Finally, the yarn was dried and cured in an oven at 60 ℃ for 30 minutes, resulting in a PDMS-coated negative Poisson's ratio yarn with a significant negative Poisson's ratio effect and structural stability. 
The article described the preparation of a durable and stable coated negative Poisson's ratio yarn through a one-step coating process, and further investigated the mechanical properties, negative Poisson's ratio performance, stability, and hydrophilic/hydrophobic properties of the yarn before and after coating using comparative analysis. It was found that the CYc1/s2 yarn had a strength of 14.45 N and an elongation of 88.14 %, while the CYc4/s2 yarn had a strength of 24.29 N and an elongation of 108.2 %. The CYc1/s2 yarn exhibited a maximum negative Poisson's ratio effect of -2.416, which remained stable after 100 cycles of tensile testing. Additionally, the water contact angle of the coated yarn was greater than 100 °. Therefore, when the coated yarn is stretched under force, the external wrapped film provides a certain degree of protection, not only increasing the yarn's strength but also its elongation. This results in yarns with excellent and stable negative Poisson's ratio characteristics, providing reference for the preparation of more stable negative Poisson's ratio textiles.


Research and application of an energy consumption prediction system for spinning workshops based on digital twins

XIAN Canlong, YUAN Yiping, CHAO Yongsheng, ZHAO Feiyang, YANG Hailong

2025, 33(07):  54-64.  DOI: 10.12477/j.att.202409036

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This paper proposes a novel energy consumption prediction system based on digital twin technology, with the objective of addressing the issues of low visualization and high energy consumption in spinning. The system aims to enhance the accuracy of energy consumption predictions in spinning workshops through intelligent means. Given the multitude of factors that influence energy consumption in the spinning process, including the type of raw cotton and the spindle speed, precise prediction of energy consumption not only facilitates the optimization of production processes but also enables significant cost savings for enterprises. The system architecture proposed in this text is comprised of four layers: the physical layer, the perception layer, the twin layer, and the application layer. The physical layer refers to the actual physical equipment and environment, which serves as the foundation for all data collection. The perception layer involves various sensors and other data acquisition devices responsible for real-time collection of data from the physical layer. The twin layer establishes virtual models to simulate various variables and conditions in the actual production process, thereby creating a "digital twin" corresponding to the physical entity. The application layer is concerned with the process of supporting decision-making through data analysis and processing. 
In this system, the combination of Convolutional Neural Networks (CNN) and Bidirectional Long Short-Term Memory (BiLSTM) is utilized to explore the potential correlations between different data dimensions in the spinning process. CNN is particularly adept at processing spatial features, such as pattern recognition in images, while BiLSTM is well-suited to the task of capturing dynamic changes in timeseries data. Through this combination, the model becomes more flexible and efficient in handling complex and variable production data. To further enhance the model's capacity for generalization, the system also introduces the Attention Mechanism. The mechanism enables the model to focus on the most salient aspects of the input data, thereby better understanding and processing complex data structures. Finally, the Fully Connected Layer is responsible for integrating the features extracted from the previous layers to output the final prediction result. The results demonstrate that this CNN-BiLSTM-Attention model exhibits extremely high accuracy in energy consumption prediction, reaching 98.21%, with prediction errors all controlled within 2.5%. In comparison to models such as CNN-BiLSTM, the new model demonstrates superior performance in both prediction accuracy and error control, suggesting that the incorporation of the Attention Mechanism can indeed significantly improve model performance. 
In conclusion, the energy consumption prediction system based on digital twin technology offers a novel approach to addressing the energy consumption prediction challenge in the conventional spinning process. It not only enhances the accuracy of energy consumption predictions but also offers powerful technical support for future production management, energy conservation, and emission reduction. This achievement is of great significance for promoting the development of the textile industry in a more intelligent and green direction.


Analysis of dynamic drape behavior of woven fabrics at different rotational speeds

PAN Yitinga, GUO Ziyia, XU Shiqia, LIN Xiyana, ZOU Fengyuan a, b, c

2025, 33(07):  65-73.  DOI: 10.12477/j.att.202410046

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Amidst the rapid advancement of digital fashion and artificial intelligence technologies, the contemporary apparel and textile industry is accelerating its digital transformation. The aesthetic appeal and authenticity of virtual clothing hinge on the simulation effects of virtual fabrics, which necessitates fabric simulation in digital apparel design to be grounded in a more realistic physical world. Once fabrics are transformed into garments, they are subjected to a variety of dynamic environments during actual wear rather than constant speed conditions. Therefore, this paper conducts an in-depth study of the dynamic drape performance and its characteristics by analyzing changes in fabric drape behavior under different dynamic conditions. It explores the influencing factors of fabric dynamic drape performance and the variation patterns of fabric drape coefficients at different rotational speeds, providing useful reference for research and applications in fabric dynamic simulation.
This paper selected 32 fabrics with different static drape performances and weights, and measured their dynamic drape coefficients at a total of 15 different rotational speeds ranging from 10 to 150 r/min (with increments of 10 r/min). These data revealed how the dynamic drape shape of the fabrics changed as the rotational speed increased. The mechanical properties of the fabric samples under low stress environment were measured using the KESFB-AUTO-A. The correlation between fabric mechanical properties and dynamic drape coefficients was analyzed for different dynamic environments. Building on this foundation, to further analyze the dynamic drape behavior of fabrics, the K-means clustering algorithm was applied to classify the collected data. Meanwhile, to more intuitively observe and analyze the trend of fabric dynamic drape coefficients as the rotational speed changed, the sample data closest to the cluster center in each cluster was selected as a representative. The least squares method was then applied to perform curve fitting on the original scatter plot data. To capture the nonlinear relationships within the data, a polynomial function was used as the fitting model, and the order of the polynomial was adjusted to achieve the best fitting effect. The order of the polynomial was determined based on the criterion of a goodness of fit (R²) greater than 0.9, ensuring that the fitted curve accurately reflected the data trend.
The study found that the bending, tensile, and shear properties of fabrics affect the dynamic drape performance to varying degrees. Among these, the influence of bending properties is the most significant, followed by tensile properties, and shear properties having a relatively weak influence. During the experiments, fabrics were ultimately classified into four categories based on their basic parameters and hand feel using a clustering algorithm: heavy and soft ones (Cluster 1), light and soft ones (Cluster 2), light and tight ones (Cluster 3), and heavy and tight ones (Cluster 4). According to the measurement data, the static drape coefficient of the fabrics, as well as the increment and increase amplitude of the dynamic drape coefficient after changes in speed, were identified as important indicators for classification. Meanwhile, based on the fitted curves and drape diagrams, it was observed that the wave numbers formed by the fabric due to gravity and bending characteristics would increase the dynamic drape coefficient. Furthermore, there exists a speed threshold for the dynamic drape performance of fabrics relative to their rotational speed. For light and soft fabrics, this threshold is 90 r/min, and for light and tight fabrics, it is 120 r/min. When the rotational speed is below this threshold, the fabric retained its shape more effectively; above this threshold, the shape is more prone to change.


Dyeing properties of diazirine-type reactive disperse dyes on polyester fabrics

ZHANG Sijia, JIANG Hua, YI Lingmin

2025, 33(07):  74-81.  DOI: 10.12477/j.att.202410012

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 Forming robust covalent bonds between dyes and fibers is an effective strategy to address the issue of thermal migration in disperse dyes. The emergence of diazirine-type dyes in recent years, which form reactive carbene intermediates upon high-temperature initiation and can undergo chemical reactions with the C-H bonds on polyester fibers, offers the potential to establish dye-fiber covalent bonds. The purpose of this article is to reveal the dyeing mechanism of these reactive dyes on polyester fabrics and provide insights for the development of high-performance diazirine dyes through studying the dyeing process of two synthesized diazirine dyes on polyester fabrics. Initially, two diazirine-type blue dyes, D1 and D2, were synthesized through coupling reactions between aniline derivatives containing diazirine structures and the corresponding diazonium salts. Subsequently, the dyes were applied to dyeing polyester fabrics using a high-temperature and high-pressure dyeing method. Various parameters, including dye uptake, color depth of the dyed fabrics, fixation rate, dye migration rate, and color fastness, were tested and analyzed to ascertain the reactivity of diazirine dyes towards polyester fibers and to further reveal the dyeing mechanism of these dyes onto the fibers.
The absorption spectrum test results showed that the maximum absorption wavelengths of dyes D1 and D2 in N,N-dimethylformamide were located at 584 nm and 601 nm, respectively, with corresponding molar extinction coefficients of 35,800 L/(mol·cm) and 35,200 L/(mol·cm). The thermogravimetric and DSC curves showed that dye D1 exhibited better thermal stability than dye D2, which would be beneficial for maintaining the stability of the diazirine dye molecules during the dyeing process. In dyeing polyester fabrics using high-temperature and high-pressure dyeing method under a dye concentration of 1% (o.w.f.), the dye uptake rates of D1 and D2 were 93.3% and 85.9%, respectively. The corresponding K/S values of the dyed fabrics were 17.1 and 15.0, with fixation rates of 59% and 36%, dye migration rates of 8.2% and 20.4%, and color fastness ratings to soaping, rubbing, sublimation, and thermal migration reaching 4 to 5 grades or above. Dyeing experiments conducted at different holding temperatures also confirmed that the reaction effect between dye D1 and the fiber improved more significantly than that of dye D2 as the temperature increased. The dyeing rate curves during temperature rise indicated that dye D1 adsorbed onto the fiber faster than dye D2. This would lead to a much higher reaction rate between dye D1 and the fiber during the holding stage compared to dye D2. 
From the above results, it can be concluded that diazirine dyes with better stability and faster adsorption and dyeing properties can achieve relatively better fixation performance on polyester fabrics.


Effects of the non-desizing process on properties of viscose filament Hada fabrics

ZHANG Hao, LIU Yan, HU Yanli, LÜ Xuebin, LI Wei

2025, 33(07):  82-89.  DOI: 10.12477/j.att.202410062

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Tibet is a typical ecologically fragile region characterized by high altitude and severe cold. In recent years, tourism, urbanization and industrial development have brought great pressure and challenges to Tibet's ecological environment. As one of the characteristic products of Tibet, Hada has a huge annual consumption. Most of the discarded Hada products are disposed of through burial or incineration. Direct burial will cause soil pollution and ecological damage, while incineration will easily pollute the air and cause serious damage to Tibet's fragile ecological environment. At present, most of the Hada products on the market are made of polyester or polyester-cotton blends, which are cheap but difficult to biodegrade. Therefore, it is imperative to develop biodegradable Hada products. Viscose filament, as a type of regenerated cellulose fiber, is an environmentally friendly product suitable for weaving biodegradable Hada products.
In this paper, a mixed sizing agent composed of different proportions of compounded modified starch and PVA-0588 was used as the main sizing material, supplemented with a small amount of castor oil and castor oil polyoxyethylene ether as lubricants. Various properties of the mixed sizing paste and sized yarn were tested and analyzed. Subsequently, the sized viscose filament yarn was used as the raw material for the weaving of Hada, and the properties of fabrics processed with a non-desizing process were compared with those processed with a traditional desizing process. The ground weave was designed with one upper and three lower weft twill, and both warp and weft densities were 300 pieces/10 cm. The fabrics were tested after soft finishing, with the distinction that the non-desizing fabrics did not undergo a desizing process but directly underwent soft finishing. The test results indicate that as the content of compounded modified starch decreases, the viscosity of the sizing paste decreases, the transparency increases, and the surface tension drops. The properties of the yarn sized with the non-desizing process are significantly enhanced compared to the original yarn. Compared with the traditional sizing, at a lower sizing rate, the strength of the sized yarn slightly decreases, but the elongation decreasing rate is lower, and the abrasion resistance improves. The mechanical properties of the non-desizing fabric are better than those of the traditional fabric, mainly due to the better mechanical properties of the yarn in the non-desizing fabric compared to the traditionally sized yarn. After desizing, some yarns undergo shrinkage, and the yarns become tighter, which results in the traditional sized fabric being thicker. The non-desizing fabric has good wrinkle resistance, small friction resistance between fibers, good crease recovery, a smoother fabric surface, and resistance to deformation under external forces. The surface of the non-desizing fabric is smoother, the fabric is tighter, and it has better deformation resistance. In contrast, the traditional sized fabric is more fluffy and prone to deformation. Therefore, the style of the no desizing fabric is more suitable for Hada fabric.
The research results of this paper provide technical reference for the research on non-desizing processing of viscose filament Hada fabrics. The non-desizing process studied for viscose filament Hada fabric can save energy and reduce the discharge of desizing wastewater, which is of great significance for the protection of ecological environment in Tibet.


Pressure testing of sports bras based on 3D simulation

WANG Jianping, ZHANG Hui, CHEN Lüzhou, SHEN Fenglin

2025, 33(07):  90-98.  DOI: 10.12477/j.att.202410028

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Garment pressure is one of the key indicators for evaluating the wearing comfort of sports bras. In recent years, the development of 3D simulation technology has provided new methods for garment pressure testing, namely, obtaining virtual pressure by simulating the pressure distribution of garments on the human body through computer software. However, the accuracy of virtual pressure values remains to be validated, particularly for tight-fitting garments like sports bras, which have stringent comfort requirements.
To investigate the accuracy of virtual pressure value simulations for sports bras, subjects and virtual mannequins in Style 3D simulation software were used as objects of study. Under four tightness states (normal shoulder straps and back hooks, tightened shoulder straps and normal back hooks, normal shoulder straps and tightened back hooks, and tightened shoulder straps and back hooks), real and virtual pressure values at 17 measurement points while wearing sports bras were measured and compared. Three major conclusions were drawn. First, the pressure analysis diagrams of the virtual mannequin can accurately reflect the main pressure areas on the human body in wearing a sports bra, including the breast area, side area, shoulder area, and underbust area. As the softness of the mannequin's chest increases, the breast area aligns better with the sports bra, while the measured pressure values decrease accordingly. Second, adjusting chest softness significantly improves the accuracy of pressure measurements in the breast area compared to the rigid mannequin. Specifically, for the breast area, the pressure measurements of a soft mannequin with a chest stiffness of 3 000 Pa are closer to the real values. For the side area, shoulder straps, and underbust area, the pressure measurements of rigid mannequins are closer to the real values, and they are significantly linearly correlated. Through linear regression, actual pressure values can be roughly estimated based on virtual pressure values. Third, the trends of virtual and actual pressures remain largely consistent under states a, b, c, and d. Tightening the shoulder straps or back hooks increases the pressure values at all measurement points and reflects the different impacts of shoulder strap and back hook tightness on pressure in various areas. Specifically, tightening the back hooks has a greater impact on pressure at measurement points in the breast and underbust areas, while tightening the shoulder straps has a greater impact on pressure at measurement points in the shoulder strap area.
Experimental test results can provide reference for evaluating the pressure comfort of sports bras and offer a basis for realizing virtual fitting of sports bras. Currently, bra cups in virtual software are realized through dart design and dart transfer, which cannot yet replicate the seamless molding process used in actual production. In the future, it is necessary to continuously optimize and upgrade virtual simulation software algorithms and pressure testing algorithms to improve the accuracy of virtual pressure simulation.


Influence of structural factors on pressure comfort of men's soft bulletproof vests

TUO Wua, LIU Siyua, CHU Yanyanb, ZHANG Xinrua, FAN Ruigea, LIU Qiongyanga

2025, 33(07):  99-108.  DOI: 10.12477/j.att.202409056

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A bulletproof vest is a type of protective equipment designed to shield the human body from injuries caused by bullets, fragments, stab wounds, and other hazards. Bulletproof vests are widely used not only in military and policing applications but also play a crucial role in daily security, among journalists, and in other high-risk situations. As the demand for personal safety protection increases, the application scope of bulletproof vests has gradually expanded, driving continuous research and technological advancements in this field. However, traditional bulletproof vests suffer from issues such as heavy weight, limited flexibility, and discomfort when worn for extended periods, which restricts their effectiveness in practical applications. Therefore, improving wearing comfort without compromising protective performance is a key focus of current research.
Pressure comfort is an important factor in measuring the wearing comfort of clothing. To enhance the pressure comfort for wearers, research into the comfort of wearing bulletproof vests is conducted from the perspective of clothing design. Firstly, the priority levels for protecting vital human organs are determined, and the size of the bulletproof layer is designed based on the distribution of these vital organs and their relationship with the human body. Secondly, the style of the bulletproof vest's outer cover is designed according to the functional requirements of the vest and the needs of human movement. Then, orthogonal experiments are conducted to study the effects of narrow shoulder width, belt width, and waist dart allowance on the pressure comfort of bulletproof vests. Clothing CAD software is used to draw the structural and pattern diagrams of the bulletproof vest. The patterns are then imported into a 3D modeling software. Before simulation, the virtual mannequin is adjusted to the specified dimensions, and the physical properties of the fabric are set to values close to those of real fabric. The patterns are virtually sewn together according to the actual stitching relationships of the bulletproof vest. In order to avoid penetration issues, the simulation is carried out sequentially from inside to outside according to the actual hierarchical relationship of the bulletproof vest. Finally, the pressure is measured according to the position of the pressure measurement point, and the sample vest is made to verify the accuracy of the simulation. 
Results show that the narrow shoulder width, belt width, and waist dart allowance all have significant impacts on the pressure comfort of men's soft bulletproof vests, with narrow shoulder width showing the most significant effect (p-value of 0.003). As narrow shoulder width and belt width increase, the overall pressure value exhibits a trend of first decreasing and then increasing, while the waist dart allowance negatively correlates with the overall pressure value. The factors' order of influence is narrow shoulder width > waist dart allowance > belt width, and the optimal combination is a narrow shoulder width of 10 cm, belt width of 21.5 cm, and waist dart allowance of 9 cm. To verify the accuracy of the 3D modeling software, prototype vests are produced and actual pressure measurements are taken, revealing a correlation coefficient of 0.879 between virtual and actual pressure, with a significance level of 0.001. This study provides reference for improving the comfort of protective gear and offers theoretical support for further structural optimization of bulletproof vests.


Cooling performance of phase change ventilation clothing in construction work

CHEN Yanzhuo, XIONG Mengyuan, HUANG Yufan, ZHANG Zhaohua

2025, 33(07):  109-116.  DOI: 10.12477/j.att.202407044

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The construction industry occupies a pivotal position in China's economy, and with the acceleration of urbanization, the demand for construction workers is growing. However, the construction industry is a field with frequent accidents, particularly in summer's high-temperature environments, where the labor safety of construction workers has garnered significant attention. The combination of high temperature and humidity, coupled with intense physical labor, can easily lead to a rapid rise in body temperature. Therefore, implementing effective thermal protection measures for construction workers exposed to such environments is crucial. In situations where the external working environment cannot be altered, active cooling clothing has emerged as an effective means to regulate heat stress and cope with outdoor high-temperature work. This type of clothing can be mainly classified into air-cooled, liquid-cooled, phase change material (PCM)-based, and fan-assisted varieties.
Hence, this study employed an artificial climate chamber set at 35°C with 75% relative humidity to simulate the real environment of a construction site in summer and mimicked the process of heavy lifting tasks (such as raising, carrying, transferring, and unloading goods). Eight male subjects completed the experiments while wearing phase change ventilation clothing (combining PCM with built-in fans) and ordinary workwear, respectively. Objective physiological data (including average skin temperature, temperature and humidity under the torso clothing, sweat production, and sweat evaporation rate) and subjective evaluations (tests on cognitive interference suppression, attention level, reaction time, as well as assessments of thermal sensation, thermal comfort, and humidity sensation) were collected. Data analysis was conducted using methods such as repeated measures ANOVA and paired-samples t-tests, aiming to assess the physiological states of the subjects when they wear different types of clothing, subsequently, so as to evaluate the cooling performance of the phase change ventilation clothing in construction work.
The research results indicate that the phase change ventilation clothing significantly reduces human skin temperature, temperature and humidity under the clothing, and sweat production. By enhancing convection with the built-in fan to promote sweat evaporation, it effectively inhibits the continuous rise of body temperature after exercise. Additionally, it aided in recovering from the negative impacts on cognitive self-control caused by high-temperature and high-humidity environments, as well as intense physical activities. However, the condensation water produced during the melting process of PCM increases the humidity under the torso clothing. Moreover, under high-intensity work in summer, the effect of the phase change ventilation clothing on improving human thermal comfort is limited, and its continuous cooling ability is unstable. Future research could consider developing slow-melting materials or improving the design of cooling fans to enhance cooling effects and ventilation performance, so as to further improve the work comfort of construction workers in high-temperature environments.


Display modes of Song brocade bags based on eye-tracking technology

WANG Lihuan, SHEN Hua, WEN Run, AN Yuying

2025, 33(07):  117-127.  DOI: 10.12477/j.att.202410035

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Song brocade bags primarily feature silk fabrics with rich patterns and vibrant colors, and their unique traditional weaving techniques have been listed as a world-class intangible cultural heritage. Song brocade has made its way into daily life through such forms as clothing, bags and scarves. However, currently, most displays of Song brocade bags fail to present their features to consumers by taking advantage of different light sources and viewing angles based on the characteristics of Song brocade fabrics. Consequently, their exhibition has been overlooked. This study uses eye-tracking technology combined with subjective questionnaires to explore the impact of the display effects of three models of Song brocade bags on consumers' visual preferences under two factors: light sources and viewing methods. Eye-tracking technology is used to obtain eye-movement data under different display conditions and analyze its influence on consumers' visual preferences, while questionnaires are used to supplement the experiment. This study is of great significance for attracting consumers, increasing the purchase rate of Song brocade bags, and promoting Song brocade culture to consumers.
The research results show that displaying these three models of luggage under warm lighting most effectively captures consumers' attention. Specifically, for Model A with multicolored all-over patterns, consumers prefer to view it under cold light sources. For Model B with single patterns and Model C with single-color all-over patterns, consumers prefer to view them under neutral light sources. There is no significant difference in consumer visual preference between strip light sources and spot light sources in terms of display, but strip light sources are more effective at attracting consumers' attention. Model A is best displayed at eye level, while Models B and C are best displayed from a top-down perspective. Therefore, in displaying bags, it is advisable to place bags with single-color all-over patterns at eye level and bags with single patterns or single-color all-over patterns within the lower visual range where consumers can see by looking down; most consumers do not prefer looking up. For the three models of Song brocade bags, consumers prefer the side display. Especially for the more three-dimensional Model C, displays from different angles have a greater visual impact on consumers. Therefore, in displaying bags, more three-dimensional pieces should be displayed with the front facing at an angle. For all three models, consumers prefer to view them at a close distance, allowing them to see the complete design of the bag as well as the patterns in detail.
The research provides reference for the display design of Song brocade bags, enabling enterprises to optimize display conditions based on consumers' visual preferences. This, in turn, showcases the charm of Song brocade bags, enhances consumers' purchase intention, and promotes the inheritance and development of Song brocade culture. For example, in the choice of light sources, appropriate light sources should be chosen according to the pattern characteristics of different styles of Song brocade bags. In terms of display angles, bags should be placed at angles preferred by consumers to make them more attractive. In actual displays, the layout should be adjusted according to the space and the number of bags to ensure they are presented in the best possible way, providing consumers with a good viewing experience. This not only helps enterprises increase sales but also spreads Song brocade culture to a wider audience.


Influence mechanism of embroidery stitches on the glossiness of embroidered products

CHEN Xuanyun, PU Yuhang, FANG Fang

2025, 33(07):  128-136.  DOI: 10.12477/j.att.202410037

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Glossiness plays a crucial role in determining the visual style and aesthetic appeal of Chinese embroidery, influencing both traditional flat stitch embroidery (plain embroidery) and innovative disordered stitch embroidery. This paper explores the impact of three common stitch elements—stitch length, stitch density, and thread arrangement direction—on the glossiness of plain embroidery. Additionally, it studies the influence of cross angles and thread arrangement directions on the glossiness of disordered stitch embroidery when combining traditional plain stitch techniques with the unique stitches of disordered stitch embroidery. A mathematical model is constructed to analyze and optimize the visual effects of embroidery based on stitch parameters.
This study aims to investigate the impact of stitch length, stitch density, and thread arrangement direction on the glossiness in flat stitch embroidery. Through interactive orthogonal tests, the individual and combined effects of these factors are analyzed to determine their relative importance on glossiness and identify the stitch combination that achieves the optimal glossy effect. The results show that thread arrangement direction has the greatest influence on glossiness, followed by stitch density, and stitch length ranks last. In flat stitch embroidery, the optimal combination for achieving the best glossy effect is: stitch length of 12 mm, stitch density of 0.25 mm, and a thread arrangement direction of 0°. These findings emphasize the significance of controlling thread arrangement direction and stitch density in traditional flat stitch embroidery to achieve the desired glossiness.
In disordered stitch embroidery, the research focus shifts to the interaction between crossing angles and thread arrangement directions. Unlike flat stitch embroidery, the crossing angle has the most significant effect on glossiness, followed by the thread arrangement direction. The interaction between these two factors also plays a crucial role in determining glossiness. In disordered stitch embroidery, the optimal combination achieves the best glossy effect when both the thread arrangement direction and the crossing angle are 0°. A key contribution of this study is the development of a mathematical model that predicts the glossiness of embroidery based on stitch parameters, offering a systematic tool for guiding embroidery design. This model can not only be applied to embroidery but also extended to other textile arts, providing valuable insights into how stitch techniques influence visual aesthetics.