现代纺织技术 ›› 2023, Vol. 31 ›› Issue (6): 167-173.

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聚乳酸纤维双面剪毛绒针织面料的制备及其生产工艺

  

  1. 1.江苏商贸职业学院,江苏南通 226000;2.南通三荣实业有限公司,江苏南通 226001;3.南通大学纺织服装学院,江苏南通 226019
  • 出版日期:2023-11-10 网络出版日期:2023-11-17
  • 作者简介:彭丽萍(1975- ),女,江西景德镇人,讲师,主要从事新型纺织面料开发利用方面的研究。
  • 基金资助:
    企业合作开发项目(NTSR2021)

Preparation and technology of PLA double-side shearing plush knitted fabric

  1. 1. Jiangsu Vocational College of Business, Nantong 226011, China; 2.Nantong Sunrise trading co., LTD, Nantong 226001, China; 3.School of Textile and Clothing, Nantong University, Nantong 226019, China
  • Published:2023-11-10 Online:2023-11-17

摘要: 聚乳酸纤维(PLA)是一种绿色、环保、可再生的聚合高分子材料,开发PLA纤维产品已成为当今绿色环保纺织产品的开发方向之一。选用PLA纤维为原料,以纬编毛巾组织为基础,采用小元宝针织结构,在大圆机上编织、气流染色机上染色开发了一种双面剪毛绒针织面料。文章重点介绍了PLA双面剪毛绒面料的特点,阐述了其产品的织造、染色、还原清洗、拉毛、梳毛、剪毛和定型等工序的生产工艺及技术关键,为同类产品开发提供参考。

关键词: 聚乳酸纤维(PLA), 双面剪毛绒, 气流染色机, 面料织造, 染整工艺

Abstract: PLA fiber is a natural recyclable polymer material in the 21st century, and the development and utilization of its products meet the current requirements of green, environmental protection and renewable. It has good social and economic value, which is conducive to the high-quality development of green textile technology in China. Using PLA fiber as raw material, based on weft woven towel tissue, a double-sided shearing plush knitted fabric was developed by weaving on a large circular knitting machine using a small ingots knitting structure.
PLA double-sided shearing plush fabric has the advantages of fluffiness, warmth, breathability, softness, skin-friendly, bacteriostatic, mildew-proof, and no irritation to human skin. It is an ideal fiber fabric for clothing. In order to ensure that the fabric surface is smooth and without creases, and save water, dyeing materials, additives and energy, and truly achieve energy saving, emission reduction, green and environmental protection, this variety should use airflow dyeing machine for printing and dyeing processing. PLA double-sided shearing plush fabric cannot use strong alkali in the process of washing and degreasing and dyeing, reduction and cleaning, otherwise serious hydrolysis of PLA fiber and strong damage of PLA fiber will occur, resulting in short hair, hair loss and other phenomena. In order to overcome the influence of reduction cleaning on PLA fiber damage and its color depth under strong alkali conditions, it is advisable to use the process of low temperature reduction cleaning of soda ash/fuse powder twice, and the ideal color fastness can be obtained. PLA double-sided shearing plush should be dried directly with hot air from the needle board of the stenter machine, which can prevent local high temperature during contact drying, resulting in local hardening of the fabric, hardening of the hand and other phenomena. PLA double-sided shearing plush fabric needs to reasonably adjust the process parameters according to the effect of the cloth in the process of brushing, combing and shearing; In order to prevent "choking" the hair and make the front and back sides of the hair consistent, it is necessary to reverse the cloth; Shearing requires the use of reverse upward machine shearing, which can achieve a uniform, fluffy, dense and plump suede on both sides of the fabric to achieve the desired effect. When PLA double-sided shearing plush fabric is pulled, it is necessary to reasonably adjust the upper and lower air volume and the overfeeding volume of needle board overfeeding; In order to avoid the creasing caused by hardening of the hand feeling, poor bulking sensation and high drop cloth temperature, the hot air temperature must be less than 120 ℃, the action time less than 30 seconds, and the drop cloth surface temperature less than 40 ℃; The finished stenter should not pass through the roll to avoid the effect on the fluffy feeling of double-sided shear.
This paper focuses on the characteristics of PLA fiber, the characteristics of PLA double-sided shearing plush fabric, and elaborates the production process and technical key of PLA double-sided shearing plush products such as weaving, dyeing, reduction cleaning, brushing, combing, shearing and shaping, so as to provide reference for the development of similar products.

Key words: PLA fiber, double sided sheared plush, air flow dyeing machine, fabric weaving, dyeing technology

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