现代纺织技术 ›› 2024, Vol. 32 ›› Issue (7): 80-85.

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棉织物的组织结构对吸湿快干性能的影响

  

  1. 1.北京服装学院美术学院,北京  100029;2.三江学院艺术学院,南京 210012;3. 湖南工程学院纺织服装学院,湖南湘潭  411104
  • 出版日期:2024-07-10 网络出版日期:2024-07-25

Effects of Differences in Cotton Fabric Structures on Moisture-absorption and Quick-drying Performance 

  1. 1.Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, Department of Art, Beijing 100029, China; 2.Sanjiang University, Department of Art, Nanjing 210012, China; 3.Hunan Institute of Engineering, Textile and Fashion College, Xiangtan 411104, China 
  • Published:2024-07-10 Online:2024-07-25

摘要: 为研究棉织物的组织结构对吸湿快干性能的影响,以40英支纯棉纱为原料,纬向平均浮长为单一变量,设计并织造平纹、2/1纬重平、3/1纬重平、4/1纬重平织物;采用滴水扩散法和毛细效应测试表征织物的吸湿性和快干性。结果表明:在其他条件相同的情况下,棉织物的吸湿性从大到小的顺序为3/1纬重平、2/1纬重平、平纹、4/1纬重平,快干性为3/1纬重平、2/1纬重平、4/1纬重平、平纹;随着纬向平均浮长的增大,织物吸湿快干性能先提高后下降。该研究明确了织物结构对吸湿快干性能的影响,可为企业吸湿快干面料结构设计提供参考。

关键词: 组织结构, 吸湿快干, 织物厚度, 浮长线, 芯吸

Abstract: Moisture-absorbing and quick-drying textiles take into account excellent hygroscopicity and fast conduction and wicking performance, rapidly absorbing and expelling sweat from the body's surface, keeping the skin dry and comfortable. Existing research on the factors influencing the moisture-wicking and quick-drying properties of cotton fabrics mainly consider porosity, density and tightness, etc., or comparative research on plain weave, twill weave and satin weave, etc., There are fewer studies on the effect of fabric structure differences on moisture-absorption and quick-drying performance, and the related research has a broad application prospect in the fields of clothing and home textiles.
To explore the influence of the average length of floating warp threads on fabric's moisture-absorption and quick-drying properties, The control variable method was used to maintain a consistent average floating line in the warp direction, while the average floating line in the weft direction was increased in turn. Four fabrics of plain weave, 2 / 1 weft heavy flat, 3 / 1 weft heavy flat and 4 / 1 weft heavy flat were designed and woven, The experimental results show that 4/1 weft heavy flat fabrics are much thicker than the other three fabrics, which is because the warp yarns within the long floating threads of the weft yarns of the 4/1 weft heavy flat fabrics are closely arranged, and the inter-yarn forces make the warp yarns easy to be stacked together. The moisture absorption performance of the fabric increases first and then decreases with the increase of the average float line of the weft yarn. The reason for the decrease is that the thickness of the fabric increases with the increase of the float line. The moisture diffuses along the warp and weft directions and accumulates along the thickness direction at the same time, and the equivalent diameter of the voids in the 4 / 1 weft heavy flat is greatly dispersed, which weakens the wicking performance of the fabric in this direction. Through the wicking height test, it is found that the difference of the warp wicking height of the four fabrics is less than 5 %, and the difference of the weft wicking height is more than 20 %, that is, the increase of the weft float line mainly affects the weft's core absorption performance, with less impact on the warp's core absorption performance. The fast-drying performance test of the four fabrics showed that 3 / 1 weft heavy flat > 2 / 1 weft heavy flat > 4 / 1 weft heavy flat > plain. With the increase of the average floating line in the weft direction, the fast-drying performance of the fabrics increased first and then decreased. The greater rate of water evaporation in the weft heavy flat fabric is due to the structure of the floating line in the weft direction is loose and there are a large number of voids, which makes the liquid water transfer easier in the fabric. Liquid water evaporates more easily because of the larger wetting area on the fabric surface. Although the average floating length of the 4 / 1 weft plain is the longest, the liquid water accumulates in the thickness direction and the spreading area decreases, so that its fast drying performance does not increase but decreases compared with the 3 / 1 weft plain fabric.
The moisture-absorption and quick-drying performance of the fabric is related to the length of the floating line of the fabric, it can be improved by increasing the average floating length. However, too long floating line will increase the thickness of the fabric, which will reduce the moisture absorption and quick drying of the fabric. While increasing the floating line to improve the moisture-absorption and quick-drying performance of the fabric, it is also necessary to consider controlling the thickness of the fabric.

Key words: fabric structure, moisture-absorption and quick-drying, fabric thickness, float line, wicking

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