关键词:

免退浆工艺, 中低温上浆, 哈达织物, 粘胶长丝, 可降解

Abstract:

Tibet is a typical ecologically fragile region characterized by high altitude and severe cold. In recent years, tourism, urbanization and industrial development have brought great pressure and challenges to Tibet's ecological environment. As one of the characteristic products of Tibet, Hada has a huge annual consumption. Most of the discarded Hada products are disposed of through burial or incineration. Direct burial will cause soil pollution and ecological damage, while incineration will easily pollute the air and cause serious damage to Tibet's fragile ecological environment. At present, most of the Hada products on the market are made of polyester or polyester-cotton blends, which are cheap but difficult to biodegrade. Therefore, it is imperative to develop biodegradable Hada products. Viscose filament, as a type of regenerated cellulose fiber, is an environmentally friendly product suitable for weaving biodegradable Hada products.

In this paper, a mixed sizing agent composed of different proportions of compounded modified starch and PVA-0588 was used as the main sizing material, supplemented with a small amount of castor oil and castor oil polyoxyethylene ether as lubricants. Various properties of the mixed sizing paste and sized yarn were tested and analyzed. Subsequently, the sized viscose filament yarn was used as the raw material for the weaving of Hada, and the properties of fabrics processed with a non-desizing process were compared with those processed with a traditional desizing process. The ground weave was designed with one upper and three lower weft twill, and both warp and weft densities were 300 pieces/10 cm. The fabrics were tested after soft finishing, with the distinction that the non-desizing fabrics did not undergo a desizing process but directly underwent soft finishing. The test results indicate that as the content of compounded modified starch decreases, the viscosity of the sizing paste decreases, the transparency increases, and the surface tension drops. The properties of the yarn sized with the non-desizing process are significantly enhanced compared to the original yarn. Compared with the traditional sizing, at a lower sizing rate, the strength of the sized yarn slightly decreases, but the elongation decreasing rate is lower, and the abrasion resistance improves. The mechanical properties of the non-desizing fabric are better than those of the traditional fabric, mainly due to the better mechanical properties of the yarn in the non-desizing fabric compared to the traditionally sized yarn. After desizing, some yarns undergo shrinkage, and the yarns become tighter, which results in the traditional sized fabric being thicker. The non-desizing fabric has good wrinkle resistance, small friction resistance between fibers, good crease recovery, a smoother fabric surface, and resistance to deformation under external forces. The surface of the non-desizing fabric is smoother, the fabric is tighter, and it has better deformation resistance. In contrast, the traditional sized fabric is more fluffy and prone to deformation. Therefore, the style of the no desizing fabric is more suitable for Hada fabric.

The research results of this paper provide technical reference for the research on non-desizing processing of viscose filament Hada fabrics. The non-desizing process studied for viscose filament Hada fabric can save energy and reduce the discharge of desizing wastewater, which is of great significance for the protection of ecological environment in Tibet.

Key words: non-desizing process, warp sizing at medium and low temperature, Hada fabric, viscose filament, biodegradable