Abstract: In recent years, multi-functional composite healthy and comfortable fabrics are the development direction of current fabrics. Under the high temperature in summer, the human body will produce a lot of sweat after exercise. As a product in direct contact with the human body, clothing is easy to attach to the skin surface and form a high temperature and humidity climate environment with it, and produce sticky, stuffy and airtight feeling. And because of the porous structure and large specific surface area, it is easy to absorb sweat and a large amount of oil secreted by human metabolism, providing a good environment for the attachment and reproduction of bacteria and other microorganisms. The pungent odor and indirect transmission produced in the process of reproduction are also important sources and transmission routes of diseases, thus bringing hidden dangers to human health. In summer activities and work, a long time of humid and sultry environment will make the skin more prone to allergy and other inflammatory reactions and accelerate skin aging. The development of multi-functional composite fabrics with moisture absorption and quick drying, antibacterial and thermal comfort has a certain market prospect.
At present, the thermal-moisture comfort function of fabric is relatively simple, and there is little research on the multifunctional composite of fabrics realized by functional fiber mixing. The fabric modification for the hot and humid environment is mainly for the improvement of the functions such as moisture absorption and quick drying, antibacterial and heat transfer. To develop healthy and comfortable clothing fabrics under humid and hot conditions, a total of 16 types of fabrics, including A and B series, were woven with mulberry silk as warp and a blend of honeycomb antibacterial polyester fibers, tencel, honeycomb UV resistant polyester fibers, and honeycomb jade polyester fibers as weft. By testing the performance of moisture absorption, quick drying, antibacterial and heat transfer, the heat and humidity comfort was evaluated by fuzzy comprehensive analysis. The results show that the moisture absorption and quick drying properties of the yarn is related to its type, weave and density. The inhibitory effect of fabric on S. aureus and E. coli is positively correlated with the content of cellular antibacterial polyester fiber in latitude yarn, and the inhibitory effect of S. aureus is better than that of E. coli. The thermal resistance of fabric decreases with the increase of tencel content in yarn, and the heat transfer performance of fabric is best when honeycomb jade polyester fiber is contained. The results of fuzzy comprehensive analysis indicate that in the A series, the fabric woven with tencel/honeycomb antibacterial polyester fiber/honeycomb ultraviolet resistant polyester fiber (30/60/10) as weft and 16 reinforced weft satin has the best comprehensive performance; the comprehensive performance of the fabric in the B series is the best when the weft density is 46 roots/cm.
We explore the influence of fiber content ratio, fabric weave and fabric weft on the antibacterial, thermal-moisture comfort of the blended yarn, and the research results can provide reference for the design and development of multi-functional fabrics, contribute to the development of composite functional fabrics with better comprehensive performance, and promote the development of clothing fabrics in a more high-grade, more accurate and more scientific direction.

Key words: thermal-moisture comfort, functional fabric, blended yarn, antibacterial, moisture absorption and quick drying, fabric weave

摘要： 为开发热湿条件下穿着健康舒适的抗菌服用面料，以桑蚕丝为经纱，蜂窝抗菌涤纶纤维、天丝、蜂窝抗紫外涤纶纤维、蜂窝玉石涤纶纤维等混纺为纬纱，通过改变纬纱种类、织物组织及纬密等设计并试织了A、B两个系列共16种织物；并对其吸湿速干、抗菌与热传递性能等进行测试，运用模糊综合分析法对其抗菌性能、热湿舒适性进行评价。结果表明：当纬纱中含有天丝成分时织物吸湿速干性能更佳，随着织物组织浮长变短、纬密增大，其吸湿速干性能整体呈下降趋势；织物具有优良的抗菌性，纬纱中蜂窝抗菌涤纶纤维含量越高，织物抗菌性能越好。织物热阻随着纬纱中天丝含量增加而减小，当含有蜂窝玉石涤纶纤维时织物热传递性能最佳；组织浮长更短的织物热传递性能更优。模糊综合分析结果表明，A系列中以天丝/蜂窝抗菌涤纶纤维/蜂窝抗紫外涤纶纤维(30/60/10)为纬纱并以16枚加强纬缎织造的织物抗菌热湿舒适性能最佳，B系列中纬密为46根/cm时织物抗菌热湿舒适性能最佳。

关键词: 热湿舒适性, 功能性面料, 混纺纱线, 抗菌, 吸湿速干, 织物组织