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    Research progress of virtual clothing under the background of metaverse
    GU Shanqia, b, HU Lianxina, b, WANG Zefenga, b, CHEN Xua, LOU Jiongnana, b, LIU Qiloga, b, ZHANG Gegea, b
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (3): 129-140.  
    Abstract623)      PDF (2359KB)(194)       Save
    Virtual clothing is a virtual reality application based on computer technology. Its background and purpose are to provide people with a new fashion experience. With the rapid development of virtual reality technology, virtual clothing has begun to show more and more application scenarios, such as virtual fitting and metaverse. Virtual clothing can not only provide consumers with a better shopping experience, but also reduce the cost of the brand and reduce environmental pollution. Therefore, there are great potential and development space for the research and application of virtual clothing .
    The research of virtual clothing began in the 1980s. Early studies mainly focused on physical simulation technology of cloth. For example, in 1986, WEIL proposed a method based on cloth synthesis. Subsequently, TERZOPOULOS et al. extended it to elastic deformation and inelastic deformation, such as the elastic deformation model proposed in 1987 and the inelastic deformation model concerning viscoelasticity, plasticity and fracture proposed in 1988. Researchers are committed to improving the realism and fidelity of virtual clothing, and effectively reducing the amount of calculation and simulation complexity. 
    With the continuous advancement of technology, the research of virtual clothing has gradually shifted to application. Aiming at the bottleneck problem of virtual fitting, many studies have focused on optimizing the fitting process. For example, KOO et al. proposed the problem of semi-drag skirt cutting angle in 2009, while WANG and LIU developed a virtual fitting platform based on CLO3D in 2020.
    In the context of the metaverse, the research of virtual fashion is increasingly focused on the integration of cutting-edge technologies such as artificial intelligence and blockchain, like artificial intelligence-based textile feature modeling, and probability distribution model of virtual try-on experience. In addition, with the development of blockchain technology, the application of non-homogeneous tokens (NFT) in the field of virtual fashion has also begun to receive attention. For the display of virtual fashion, virtual try-on systems based on technologies such as augmented reality (AR) and virtual reality (VR) in existing research have broad application prospects.
    Virtual clothing is always committed to providing a new fashion experience. In the past few decades, researchers have made a lot of progress from physical simulation to the application of metaverse. In the future, virtual clothing will continue to grow and develop, and will be applied in more markets and application scenarios. At the same time, the emergence of various emerging technologies will also bring new opportunities and challenges to the development of virtual clothing. Therefore, researchers need to continue to pay attention to the development trends and needs of the virtual clothing field, and propose more innovative solutions to promote the rapid development of virtual clothing technology.
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    Research on the urine leakage frequency monitoring system based on intelligent flexible fabric sensors
    ZHOU Jinli, WANG Zheng, ZHOU Zhiting, LI Yunfei, XIONG Fan, LI Hongping
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (3): 91-101.  
    Abstract531)      PDF (5519KB)(75)       Save
    Urinary incontinence (UI) refers to a condition in which urine cannot be controlled and leaks out on its own when abdominal pressure increases during exercise, sneezing, coughing, laughing, etc. According to statistics, approximately 200 million people worldwide suffer from urinary incontinence. The proportion of female patients is significantly higher than that of male patients, and the prevalence gradually increases with age. In China, the incidence of urinary incontinence in adult women is about 30.9%, that is, one in every three women suffers from this disease. Urinary incontinence is usually long-lasting, difficult to diagnose, non-fatal, and difficult to treat. Therefore, compared with normal people, the quality of life and sleep quality of patients with urinary incontinence are significantly lower, and their depression is more severe, which seriously affects their daily life.
    The treatment of patients with urinary incontinence is a difficult medical problem, and currently, patients with urinary incontinence have low medical seeking rates. Most patients' lack of knowledge about urinary incontinence is an important factor affecting their intention to seek medical treatment. UI is judged based on the International Advisory Committee on Urinary Incontinence Questionnaire (ICI-Q-SF), which includes four questions, namely, to assess the frequency of urinary leakage, the amount of urine leakage, the impact of urinary incontinence, and the cause of urinary incontinence. Tables can be used to investigate the incidence of urinary incontinence and the extent to which it affects patients. Hospitals use a urine pad test to evaluate urinary incontinence. In clinical practice, a one-hour urine pad test is generally used to determine urine leakage. That is, the patient is allowed to drink pure water for 15 minutes and then perform 30 minutes of appropriate exercise such as walking and climbing stairs, and the test lasts for 15 minutes by repeating standing and sitting ≥10 times, coughing ≥10 times, running in place for one minute, bending down five times, and finally washing hands for one minute to end the test. The test detection process is cumbersome, involves long waiting time, low repeatability, and even has a certain degree of subjectivity.
    With the development of science and technology, the technological innovation of smart wearable textiles has been widely used in monitoring urinary incontinence. This is an innovation in the medical field that applies advanced technology. Its core is to integrate flexible sensors and electronic components into textiles and enable it to monitor urinary frequency and other related data in patients with urinary incontinence. Smart wearable textiles include sensors embedded in textiles that can detect the flow of urine, changes in resistance, or other related parameters. Through data transmission and processing, the occurrence of urinary incontinence events can be captured and recorded, including the frequency and amount of urine leakage. Some systems can also be integrated with mobile apps or cloud services so that data can be accessed and monitored at any time by healthcare professionals or patients themselves. Because these devices incorporate technologies such as flexible sensors, wireless communication, and data processing, they are portable, miniaturized, intelligent, and capable of real-time monitoring. Compared with traditional monitoring methods, this technology is more private and does not involve embarrassing testing processes. Therefore, smart flexible wearable textiles have begun to be used to monitor the condition of urinary incontinence patients, bringing convenience and accuracy to urinary incontinence monitoring, which is expected to improve patients' quality of life and promote the development of medical care.
    The frequency of urinary leakage is an important indicator for evaluating the condition of urinary incontinence patients. The higher the frequency of urinary leakage, the more serious the condition. In order to accurately diagnose the frequency of urinary leakage in each urinary incontinence patient and further address this problem, we proposed a method using intelligent flexible fabric sensors, silver-plated yarn and non-woven fabric as sensing materials for functional electrodes and designs. We designed the sensing structure and sensing pattern, and used hot melt technology to embed these functional electrodes into disposable diapers specially used for urinary incontinence patients to create functional smart diapers. At the same time, we improved and optimized the main control chip nRF5283, and wrote a data median filtering program to preprocess the urinary frequency signal. Based on the change in resistance value in the functional electrode that reflects the frequency of urine leakage, we optimally selected the conduction spacing and pattern of the sensor and conducted performance tests. Experimental results show that each electrode module of pattern C with a conduction spacing of 0.6 cm can be detected more than 15 times, with an average accuracy of 86.2% and a sensitivity of 73.5 kΩ/0.1 mL, achieving the expected goals. This smart flexible fabric sensor can be used to assess the basic health status of urinary incontinence patients and provides a simple method to prepare smart flexible fabric sensors to monitor urinary frequency.
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    Wettability regulation and mechanism study of PLCL microfiber nonwoven materials
    ZHU Xueying, DENG Jixia, HUANG Chen
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (4): 1-9.  
    Abstract218)      PDF (6966KB)(106)       Save
    Electrostatic spinning technology is an efficient method for the preparation of nanofiber materials. The fiber materials produced by this method have high porosity and specific surface area, and their fiber structure can mimic the extracellular matrix, making them an ideal material for promoting repair and regeneration of damaged parts in tissue engineering. PLCL is a synthetic polymer material with high biosafety and degradability, and is widely used in tissue engineering and drug delivery. However, the poor hydrophilicity and poor biocompatibility of PLCL electrospun fiber materials limit their applications. The hydrophilicity of composite or pure PLCL fiber materials is often improved by mixing them with hydrophilic natural or synthetic polymer materials or post-treating PLCL microfiber nonwoven materials, etc. However, the composite fiber material made by the former method is unstable in structure and prone to phase separation, and some of the natural polymer materials have large brittleness and poor flexibility, resulting in poor mechanical properties of the composite material. By contrast, the composite fiber material made by the latter method is unstable in effect, and is prone being hydrophobic from being hydrophilic after a period of use.
    By changing the ratios of hexafluoroisopropanol (HFIP) and trifluoroacetic acid (TFA) in the electrostatic spinning solution, the wettability of poly(propylene lactone-caprolactone) (PLCL) microfibrous nonwoven materials was changed in a one-step method without adding any hydrophilic components or finishing. PLCL was dissolved in a solvent mixture of HFIP and TFA and then electrostatically spun, and it was found that the average fiber diameter decreased from 1.036 μm to 0.611 μm with the increase of TFA content from 0 to 100%, and the contact angle decreased from 121° in the droplet method to 46° in the bubble method. The infrared spectra, thermogravimetric curves, X-ray diffraction curves, and nuclear magnetic hydrogen spectra of the materials were further tested to investigate the mechanism of the phenomenon. The experimental results showed that the addition of TFA shortened the chain segment of PLCL macromolecule and reduced the number of hydrophobic ester groups, which led to the decrease of fiber diameter and the increase of hydrophilicity of the material. Nevertheless, the addition of TFA did not change the thermal stability of the material as a whole, and did not produce new chemical structures, and the hydrolysis occurred firstly in the amorphous region of the PCL molecule. It is proved that hydrophilic PLCL microfiber nonwoven materials can be prepared simply and efficiently by changing the solvent ratio.
    PLCL microfiber nonwoven materials can be applied to tissue engineering dressings, inoculating epidermal cells or fibroblasts based on the polymer scaffold material can be used to repair patients' wound to increase the degree of active growth factor secretion. Since hydrophilic materials are easier for cell adhesion and biocompatible, improving the wettability of PLCL microfiber nonwoven materials is one of the keys to expanding their applications.
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    Preparation and application of B-PDA-G/PDMS thermally conductive insulating materials
    CHENG Chunfen, PAN Jiajun, TANG Kongke, XIA Zhaopeng, LIU Zhitao
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (4): 10-20.  
    Abstract196)      PDF (23866KB)(30)       Save
    With the continuous improvement of people's living standards, people have put forward more diverse requirements for the performance of clothing, and it has shown great market prospects. As the future development trend of wearable devices, the heat dissipation of electronic devices has gradually become the key to research and application in various fields, especially in the textile field. If there is no effective heat dissipation, overheating will seriously reduce the performance and reliability of the equipment. Polymers are often used in thermal management materials for their advantages of good processability, high relative molecular mass, low water absorption, high resistivity, high breakdown voltage, corrosion resistance and low cost. However, the inherent low thermal conductivity (0.2~0.5 W/(m·K)) of the polymer matrix generally limits its thermal applications. Usually, thermally conductive fillers such as the inorganic ceramic fillers of aluminum oxide (Al2O3), aluminum nitride(AlN), and zinc oxide(ZnO) are added to the polymer matrix to improve the thermal conductivity of polymers. The addition of these high-density ceramic fillers usually results in low compatibility with the polymer, poor dispersion, high loading, and unsatisfactory improvement of the thermal conductivity of the composites.
    To solve the heat dissipation problem in wearable electronic devices, flexible thermal management materials with high thermal conductivity and electrical insulation properties were obtained. Boron nitride (BN) and graphene nanoparticles (GNPs) were selected as hybridized thermally conductive fillers, and B-PDA-G/PDMS flexible thermally conductive and insulating films with different filler contents were prepared by hot-pressing method after surface modification of the hybridized fillers by polydopamine (PDA) and mixing with polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) matrix. Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS) and scanning electron microscopy (SEM) were used to investigate the effects of filler B-PDA-G and single BN on improving the thermal conductivity of PDMS membrane materials and to assess the feasibility of their application in the textile field. The results show that the B-PDA-G/PDMS composite membranes can maintain good mechanical properties, electrical insulation and thermal conductivity at low filler filling. When the mass ratio of BN to GNPs is 5:5 and the mass fraction of filler is 30%, the in-plane thermal conductivity of B-PDA-G/PDMS can reach up to 7.63 W/(m-K), which is 2.8 times and 27.3 times higher compared to BN/PDMS materials and pure PDMS materials, respectively. 
    By coating the flexible thermally conductive and insulating composites into the electrothermal fabric as the encapsulation coating, it is found that B-PDA-G/PDMS has better heat transfer and dissipation ability compared with BN/PDMS at the safe heating temperature of human body, which demonstrates its broad application prospect in smart wearable products.
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    Influence of structural parameters on the performance of braided core-sheath triboelectric sensing yarns
    GAO Yue , TAO Qingyun , MENG Fenye , YAN Xiong , HU Jiyong
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (7): 1-12.  
    Abstract190)      PDF (22328KB)(98)       Save
    Respiration is an uninterrupted and important biomechanical behavior that occurs throughout human′s whole life, and is used as a diagnostic signal for a variety of diseases. With the development of wearable flexible sensors, new ideas are provided for the design of respiratory sensors that real-timely, non-invasively and comfortably monitor human respiratory motion. Compared to other types of sensors, triboelectric sensors have been widely adopted for self-powered respiration monitoring owing to their compelling features, such as decent biocompatibility, wearing comfort, low-cost, and high sensitivity to respiration activities in the aspect of low frequency and slight amplitude motion. Among them, yarn-based triboelectric sensors have attracted attention for their comfort and high flexible integration. However, most of the researches on triboelectric sensing yarns for respiration monitoring focus on structural design. How structural parameters affect their performance remains unclear, hindering the industrial production of triboelectric sensing yarns.
    In order to meet the needs of daily long-term monitoring of human respiratory motion and large-scale production, a braided core-sheath triboelectric sensing yarn based on a single-electrode working mode was designed. According to its structure and process characteristics, the effects of the stretchable electrode twist and the braiding parameters of the outer braided layer on the performance of the sensing yarn are discussed. Firstly, six stretchable electrodes with different twists were prepared with the same structural parameters of the outer braided layer, and their tensile and electrical properties were tested. On this basis, the stretchable electrodes with the best performance were selected, and the sensing yarns with different braiding parameters were prepared by changing the number of braided yarns and the braiding angle. In order to satisfy the application in daily garments, the first step is to select the braiding parameters with stable structure and to meet the requirements of tensile properties. Then, investigating the effects of braiding parameters on the electrical property of the sensing yarns. In this paper, the effects of stretchable electrode yarn twist and braided layer parameters on the dielectric layer thickness, surface morphology and compression deformation of the braided core-sheath triboelectric sensing yarn are investigated. Moreover, correlation analysis was used to investigate the relationship between these factors and the electrical property of the sensing yarns. The results show that the elastic elongation of the sensing yarn gradually increases with the increase of stretchable electrode yarn twist, and the elastic recovery rate and short-circuit current decrease. For the braiding parameters, the elastic recovery rate of the sensing yarn is mainly affected by the braiding angle, and the electrical property by the multiple effects of the braiding parameters. The maximum short-circuit current is obtained when the number of braided yarns is 10 and the braiding angle is 45˚. In the contact-separation frequency range of 0.15~1.2 Hz, the short-circuit current of this sensing yarn increases with frequency and has good output stability during 2000 cycles of motion. The sensing yarn can respond to different respiratory states when it is worn on the human abdomen. The results show that the braided sensing yarn based on the knitting/twisting process can be used for human respiratory status monitoring, which is of great significance for the production of triboelectric respiratory monitoring sensors.
    Generally, the effects of braided core-sheath yarn structural parameters on the performance of triboelectric sensing yarns are determined, and the application potential of this sensing yarns for human respiratory status monitoring is tested. The research results provide guide for the subsequent production of triboelectric respiratory monitoring sensors.
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    Analysis of oligomer composition in polyethylene terephthalate by double detectors with chromatography
    LI Lina, GAO Feng, WANG Yongjun, CHEN Wenxing, LÜ Wangyang
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (4): 38-44.  
    Abstract187)      PDF (1046KB)(65)       Save
    Polyethylene terephthalate (PET) is widely used in textile fibers, packaging materials, industrial films and other fields because of its chemical stability, good resilience and high strength. The rapid development of polyester products in all walks of life has also worsened energy shortage and environmental pollution problems. Research on recycled polyester in recent years has contributed to sustainable development. However, oligomers contained in polyester materials can be migrated to fiber surface or deposited on the machine during the production process, affecting product performance and production efficiency. In this study, a method for determining the composition of oligomers in polyester was established, which provides a technical basis for further research on oligomers in recycled polyester. 
    In this study, photo-diode array (PDA) and refractive index detector (RID) were connected in series on advanced polymer chromatography (APC) to analyze the mixture standard sample according to the principle of them, and the standard curve and linear equation of each composition oligomer were established by the external standard method. At the same time, we verified the feasibility of the method by repeating experiments. The oligomer content in recycled polyester and virgin polyester was calculated by the linear equation and compared to characterize the differences. It is found that more sensitive and accurate information can be obtained by selecting chromatography at the maximum absorption wavelength of 240 nm. According to the spectral information obtained by RID and PDA, the standard curves plotted have a good linearity within a certain range. It can be seen from the repeatability test that the method is stable and efficient, and is suitable for the detection of oligomers in PET. With the help of standard curve and linear equation, the content of each oligomer in the regenerated and virgin PET fibers was calculated, and it could be seen that the oligomer compositions in PET fibers include cyclic dimers, cyclic dimers containing a diethylene glycol, cyclic trimers…cyclic dodecamers and above. There are many oligomeric species that can be extracted by the one-step precipitation method. Cyclic trimer and cyclic tetramer are the main compositions of PET oligomers, with a relative content of about 60% and 17%, respectively. The total amount of oligomers contained in physically recycled PET is 22.64 mg/g, which is higher than that of virgin PET at 21.03 mg/g, and the total amount of oligomers in chemically recycled PET is 20.73 mg/g, which is lower than that of virgin PET. It is in accordance with the physical and chemical recovery processes. 
    In this study, PDA was coupled with RID on APC to extract chromatogram information at 240 nm; the standard curve of each composition oligomer was ploted, so as to establish the quantitative detection method of oligomers in PET. The method is simple and efficient, with better stability. From the calculation results, it is clear that different recovery methods of PET affect its internal oligomer content. Therefore, for different product performance requirements, the selection of suitable PET recovery methods is crucial for its high quality.
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    Preparation of tea stem catechins and their staining and functional modification of silk fabrics
    FANG Jiaojiao, ZHAO Peihong, ZHAO Yitao, DENG Shuyi, CHEN Xin , CAO Hongmei,
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (6): 1-8.  
    Abstract182)      PDF (2124KB)(95)       Save
    As a major tea-producing country, China produces a huge amount of tea stems every year. In order to improve the current situation of tea stems being abandoned, increase the utilization of tea stems, and solve the waste of resources caused by discarded tea stems, the paper investigated the dyeing and function of tea stem pigments. In this paper, catechins were extracted from Tieguanyin tea stems, and LC-MS, UV-visible spectrophotometer, Fourier transform infrared and other instruments were used to identify and analyze the structure of the tea stem extracts. Then, the extract was used to dye silk. The dyeing pH value, dyeing temperature and dyeing time were used as variables, and the Integ value of silk was used as an indicator to explore the optimal dyeing process. Finally, by using the best process for direct dyeing and Al3+ as a pre-mordant dyeing method, the Tieguanyin tea stem extract, Tieguanyin extract and green tea extract were used as dyes to compare the differences in color fastness and functional finishing for dyeing silk between the tea stem extract and tea leaf extracts. The results indicate that LC-MS characterization shows that the Tieguanyin tea stem extract has the same retention time and fragment ion peak as the catechin standard monomer. At the same time, the UV absorption spectrum shows that the extract has strong absorption at 280 nm and has structure of flavanols. The Fourier transform infrared spectrum also shows that the extract contains the same function group as catechins. Therefore, the main component of the Tieguanyin tea stem extract has been determined to be catechins. Under the condition that the catechins dye dosage is 10% (o.w.f) and the liquor ratio is 1:50, the dyeing time is 70 minutes, the dyeing temperature is 80 °C, and the dyeing pH value is 7.5, the Integ value of the silk can reach over 21. The color fastness of silk dyed with Tieguanyin tea stem catechins is the same as those dyed with Tieguanyin catechins and alpine green tea catechins, which can meet the basic requirements of clothing. The UPF values of the silk directly dyed with the three dyes extracted from different sources are 168.84, 150.58, and 150.20 respectively. The UPF values of the silk after mordant dyeing are all more than 230. The Tieguanyin tea stem catechin is slightly higher than the other two catechins extracted from tea. After direct dyeing, the antioxidant properties of the three catechins are 67%, 64%, and 77% respectively. The high mountain green tea catechin is higher than the Tieguanyin tea stem catechins and Tieguanyin catechins, and it is still demonstrated to have the highest antioxidant property after mordant dyeing. In conclusion, although the Tieguanyin tea stem catechin doesn't have the best antioxidant properties, it has satisfactory dyeing effect and functional results as a natural pigment obtained from tea wastes, so it has good application value.
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    Virtual fitting research based on the diffusion model and ControlNet network
    GUO Yuxuan, SUN Lin
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (3): 118-128.  
    Abstract173)      PDF (7158KB)(80)       Save
    With the development and iteration of image generation models, models  like Stable Diffusion based on the  diffusion model have become the mainstream image generation models, providing a new way for clothing design and rendering. The diffusion model usually uses the text prompt word as the image generation condition and the generated picture has randomness. It is difficult to accurately generate the virtual fitting effect of a specific style. The application of ControlNet neural networks makes the generation of images more controllable. The trained Controlnet network can use the image information such as Canny edge map, depth map, and Openpose map as additional generation conditions of the diffusion model to control the human body posture, edge features, front and rear position relationship of the generated image. This paper briefly describes the development history and principle of the diffusion model, and explores its feasibility for generating virtual fitting renderings. To achieve the purpose of visualizing the clothing style diagram as the garment effect and realize the rapid generation of virtual fitting effect, This paper attempts to use ControlNet neural network to control the diffusion model to generate virtual fitting effect of virtual models wearing specified clothing styles.
      The virtual fitting of three dresses was taken as an example for experimentation. Firstly, the images of real clothing models with expected posture were sampled, and the key human body images and pose depth maps of real models were extracted as the generation conditions. Then, the Controlnet control Stable Diffusion model was used to generate a virtual clothing model image that matches the intended pose. Subsequently, the edge image of the virtual model was generated by the Canny algorithm, and the edge image was edited and modified in combination with the dress style diagram. The edge image of the virtual model wearing the specified style dress was drawn, and it was used as the edge generation condition. The virtual fitting effect of the dress conforming to the specific style, color and fabric was generated by the text prompt-controlled diffusion model, and the style of the dress with the virtual fitting effect was changed in real time by modifying the edge image, so as to provide an intuitive reference for fashion designers to modify and adjust designs. In addition, the detailed feature control experiment of the virtual model was also carried out during the experiment; experiment on the control effect of text prompt word weight on clothing fabric and color was carried out. Finally, the generation effect of the proposed method was compared and evaluated with the effect of 3D modeling virtual fitting clothing.
    The results show that the diffusion model combined with the ControlNet network can control the pose characteristics of the virtual model, allowing the virtual fitting effect of the expected clothing style to be generated by editing the Canny edge image control. Compared with 3D modeling, the virtual fitting effect is more expressive, the operation is more intuitive and faster, and it is more suitable for providing designers with intuitive clothing display in the style design stage, assisting designers to adjust the design style, color, fabric and process, and improving the efficiency of clothing design.
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    Kubelka-Munk dual constant theory for the construction of full color gamut rotor spinning and color prediction
    WANG Yanyan, XUE Yuan, CHEN Yourong, SHI Huanqiang
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (3): 1-13.  
    Abstract172)      PDF (6254KB)(112)       Save
    Due to the heavy workload and time-consuming and material-consuming of traditional manual color measurement and matching, color spinning technology came into being. Color spinning technology is a spinning technology that blends several colored fibers in a specific proportion to produce fashionable colors. The fabric and finished product made by using color spinning do not need to be dyed again and is considered a green ecological short process technology. However, due to the inability to freely control color during the spinning stage, the actual production and application of color spinning are greatly limited. To address this issue, a four primary color ternary coupling superposition full-color gamut grid-based color mixing model was first constructed, which can perform color phase control, brightness control, and chromaticity control within the full-color gamut range.
    On this basis, combined with the characteristics of the Kubelka-Munk dual constant theoretical model, 84 grid point mixed sample formulas were selected from the constructed grid-based color mixing model, of which 54 mixed samples were used as measured samples. With a three-channel CNC rotor spinning machine as the platform, four primary colors of cyan (C), magenta (M), yellow (Y), and white (W) were used as raw materials. Based on the constructed full-color domain grid-based color mixing model and color mixing chromatography, we prepared actual spinning samples. Then, we measured the color values of 54 measured samples, and used the least squares method to calculate the K and S values of each primary color fiber, in order to achieve the prediction of full gamut color or primary color fiber mixing ratio. We also selected the remaining 30 mixed samples as prediction samples to verify the ability of the traditional Kubelka-Munk dual constant theory model to predict the color or primary color fiber mixing ratio. From the comparison between the predicted reflectance of the mixed samples and the actual reflectance, it is found that the predicted reflectance of some mixed samples is significantly lower than the actual reflectance. In response to the problem of insufficient prediction accuracy of traditional Kubelka-Munk double constant theory, the article proposes to reconstruct the Kubelka-Munk double constant theory model for color prediction, and then partially replace the part of the traditional method where the obviously mixed color yarn has a lower reflectivity than the actual reflectivity with the interpolation method. The results show that compared with the traditional Kubelka-Munk double constant theory, the average color difference of the reflectance predicted by the new method has been reduced from 1.48 to 1.04, and the color difference of all mixed samples can be controlled within 2.0. We use the least squares method to predict the monochromatic fiber blending ratio of ten mixed samples, and then substitute it into the Kubelka-Munk dual constant theoretical model to calculate the predicted reflectance. According to the CMC2:1 color difference formula, the color difference between the predicted reflectance and the actual reflectance of the ten mixed samples was obtained, with the minimum color difference being 0.18, the maximum being 0.91, and the average value being 0.45. As the mixing ratio changes, the color difference of the mixed samples fluctuates up and down within its average range, and the color difference is small. The prediction effect of the blending ratio is good. This prediction method has better prediction accuracy than the traditional Kubelka-Munk double constant theory. The constructed four primary color grid mixing model and Kubelka-Munk double constant theory model can be applied to predict the color mixing and mixing ratio of multi primary color fibers.
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    Motion simulation and morphological analysis of hooked fibers in a rotor spinner
    GONG Xinxia, YANG Ruihua
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (3): 21-28.  
    Abstract165)      PDF (2995KB)(56)       Save
    Rotor spinning is a widely used new spinning method with the advantages of short process flow and high production efficiency. The fiber strands are directly fed into the carding device and released into a single fiber state, and are transferred to the rotor through negative pressure airflow for condensation and twisting into yarn. The fibers fed into the rotor spinning machine contain various forms of fibers, and are mainly divided into the three categories of straight fibers, front hook fibers, and rear hook fibers. In actual production, it is necessary to avoid the entry of rear hook fibers. If there are many rear hook fibers, the spun rotor yarn may have uneven evenness and easily produce coarse and fine knots. This is the experience summarized in the production process. Therefore, exploring the morphological changes of hook fibers in the rotor spinning machine, as well as the straightening and formation process of hooks, provides reference for improving the spinning mechanism of rotor spinning, and optimizing the rotor structure and process parameters.
    We aimed to solve the fiber motion trajectory using the Lagrangian-Euler method, with the airflow as a continuous phase and the fibers as discrete phases. Firstly, we used the 3D modeling software SolidWorks2021 to establish a model of the rotor spinning machine. Then, we coupled and connected Rocky DEM 2022R1 and ANSYS Fluent 2022R1. As for the airflow field, we selected the Standard k-epsilon turbulence model, Standard Wall Function (SWF), and SIMPLE algorithm. The fiber model is of a rod chain structure, and is made of cotton fibers with a length of 28mm. The fiber model established in this article has the size and properties of real cotton fibers, and has been optimized on the fiber model. At the same time, the changes in fiber morphology under different initial forms were considered. The deformation pattern of the hook fibers in the fiber transmission channel under conditions 1-2 is basically consistent, with a small trend of movement towards the main section in the bent section; from the exit of the fiber transport channel to the slip surface, different hooked fibers undergo different morphological differentiation processes; the pattern of morphological changes in the coagulation tank is also roughly the same, with the fibers transitioning from wavy bending to a state close to the inside of the coagulation tank. When the front hook fiber completely enters the condensation groove, the hook part has been straightened and eliminated; after the non-straightened rear hook fibers in the fiber transmission channel enter the condensation tank, it is difficult to fully straighten the hook part. The straightness of the front hook fibers in the condensation groove is significantly higher than that of the rear hook fibers. Therefore, feeding fibers into the rotor spinning machine in the form of hooks can optimize the yarn structure. 
    To sum up, numerical simulation is a very good research method. Firstly, computer simulation of the flow field and fiber movement process inside the rotor spinning machine can provide theoretical guidance for production optimization and design solutions, reduce experimental trial and error costs, and improve efficiency. Secondly, by conducting in-depth research on the airflow field and fiber movement process inside the spinner, the mechanism of rotor spinning yarn formation is gradually improved, providing a theoretical basis for the key components such as the fiber conveying channel and rotor in rotor spinning.
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    Simulation analysis of the influence of mechanical properties of fillers on cushion comfort
    XIAO Keying, CUI Siyi, LIN Shaowu, WANG Xueqin,
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (4): 21-28.  
    Abstract162)      PDF (9556KB)(33)       Save
    Based on the background that the majority of the population spends more time in a seated position and the demand for cushion products is increasing, the selection of cushion products with a high level of comfort has become the focus of consumer attention. In this paper, for the 50th percentile male representative group in China, three kinds of materials, namely warp-knitted spacer fabrics, sponges with a medium density of 28 kg/cm³, and sponges with a high density of 50 kg/cm³ were selected as the filler of cushion products to obtain three kinds of cushion materials.
    We explored the mechanical characteristics of the three types of materials and the methodology and effectiveness of finite element simulation, and established relevant material microelement models to assist design prediction. The results show that the intrinsic model with the highest compression-strain fit (99.24%) among sponges with a medium density of 28 kg/cm³, sponges with a high density of 50 kg/cm³ and warp-knitted spacer fabrics is LOW DENSITY FOAM. Meanwhile, the mathematical model of the relationship between deformation of warp-knitted spacer fabrics and the amount of compression force applied, as well as the thickness of the material was obtained by using the quadratic polynomial surface fitting of MATLAB.
    Subsequently, the process of contact between human body and three different cushion products in sitting posture was simulated by finite element simulation in ABAQUS software to analyze the comfort of the products according to the distribution of body pressure on the cushion surface, and the validity of the simulation experiments was verified by using a body pressure tester. It is found that the peak value of the elastic cushion surface of the warp-knitted spacer fabric is larger than that of the elastic cushion surface of sponges with a medium density of 28 kg/cm³, and smaller than that of the elastic cushion surface of sponges with a high density of 50 kg/cm³, and the distribution of the overall cushion surface is more homogeneous than that of the sponge cushion; and the body pressure tester verifies that the simulation data are less than 5% of the actual test data, which proves the feasibility of the simulation experiment.
    Warp-knitted spacer fabrics exhibit better support and breathability than sponge materials. Combined with the results of objective data analysis, it is believed that as these materials continue to evolve, they can provide more choices for future elastic cushion products.
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    Clothing image classification algorithm based on improved MobileNet v2#br#
    LI Linhonga, b, YANG Jiea, b, JIANG Yanxuana, b, ZHU Haoa
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (4): 93-103.  
    Abstract161)      PDF (5712KB)(57)       Save
    With the continuous development of Internet technology, online clothing shopping has become one of the mainstream ways for people to shop. Consumers can easily browse and purchase various types of clothing from e-commerce platforms at home, without the need to visit physical stores in person. At the same time, online shopping platforms also offer more choices and competitive prices, which is one of the main reasons why people choose to shop for clothing online. According to market research data, as of 2021, the consumption scale of online clothing shopping in China had reached 3.7 trillion yuan, accounting for nearly half of the entire online shopping market, and this number is still growing. However, quickly and accurately classifying a large number of clothing images is a challenging task. Traditional clothing classification requires a lot of time and labor to classify, sort, and label, consuming a lot of manpower and time costs. Moreover, with the annual increase in the volume of online shopping orders, traditional manual classification methods are difficult to handle large amounts of data and cannot meet the needs of rapid classification and processing. On the contrary, clothing classification methods based on deep learning can learn more features and patterns through a large amount of data and iterative training, achieving higher accuracy without human intervention. Therefore, this article proposes a clothing classification algorithm based on improved MobileNet V2.
    The improved algorithm mainly embeds channel and spatial attention mechanisms into the basic unit of MobileNet V2 to form an attention mechanism basic unit, giving useful features greater weight, suppressing useless features, and enhancing the network's feature extraction ability. In addition, transfer learning is used to optimize the model parameters, and enhance the model's generalization ability and stability, so as to further improve the classification accuracy. Experimental results on the Fashion MNIST dataset show that the improved algorithm achieves an average accuracy rate of 93.16%, which is respectively 1.73%, 1.22%, 3.74%, and 3.05% higher than that of the Resnet50, Efficientnet v2_l, Shufflenet v2, and Mobilenet v2 models, effectively improving the problem of low accuracy in clothing image classification.
    The algorithm proposed in this article achieves high-precision clothing classification, which not only provides consumers with a better shopping experience but also provides e-commerce platforms with more accurate clothing recommendation services, and has high application value. However, the algorithm in this study focuses on single-label clothing image classification, and there are some limitations in recognizing multiple objects within a single image. Future research will emphasize expanding the clothing image classification task to multi-label classification, and further exploring how to handle multiple clothing categories in the same image, in order to apply it to a broader range of clothing classification scenarios.
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    The latest research progress of lignin flame retardants
    LIU Yia, LIU Yuanjuna, b, c, ZHAO Xiaominga, b, c, LIU Yanyan
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (6): 28-40.  
    Abstract161)      PDF (11105KB)(104)       Save
    Lignin is currently the second largest resource of biomass materials in the plant world. However, due to the complexity of the molecular structure of lignin, its thermal stability is relatively poor, and it does not contain flame retardant elements such as phosphorus and nitrogen. The direct use of lignin as a flame retardant shows limited effectiveness in enhancing the flame retardancy of materials, hindering its market prospects as a high-end flame retardant material. Physical synergy and chemical grafting treatment can improve the inherent defects of lignin fibers, resulting in low smoke release, low heat release rate, high flame retardancy and high thermal stability. At the same time, this treatment can better maintain the original performance of the fuel, such as softness, air permeability and so on. However, the traditional flame retardant preparation process involves the use of toxic substances, such as halogens and metals, resulting in processing difficulties. Finally, it tends to decompose easily at high temperatures, diminishing its flame retardant effectiveness. Safety problems seriously restrict the sustainable development of traditional flame retardants. In summary, the use of lignin flame retardant materials is the most environmentally friendly and easy-to-implement improvement method in the flame retardant industry.
    Usually, lignin is compounded with other flame retardants, or flame retardant elements or groups are introduced into the chemical structure of lignin by chemical modification. In physical synergy, lignin can be used as a charring agent to make the char layer of the flame retardant material more compact after combustion. In composite flame retardant materials, the content of lignin has a certain impact on the flame retardant effect. As the lignin content increases, the limiting oxygen index of the combustible material rises, the total smoke production and the total heat release rate decrease. Chemical grafting modification can be roughly divided into nitrogen and phosphorus modification, nitrogen and phosphorus modification containing metal ions, organic silicon modification and nano modification. Among them, nitrogen and phosphorus modification is widely used. In terms of flame retardancy, most chemically modified lignin flame retardants can improve thermal stability and reduce smoke generation. In terms of flame retardancy, most chemically modified lignin flame retardants can improve thermal stability and reduce smoke generation. In the nitrogen and phosphorus modified lignin flame retardant, the phosphorus element plays a role in promoting the formation of carbon in the composite, making it form a dense carbon layer and flame retardant in the condensed phase. During the combustion process, nitrogen forms ammonia to dilute air, achieving the purpose of high efficiency flame retardant in the gas phase flame retardant mechanism. The introduction of metal ions can further improve the performance of nitrogen and phosphorus modified lignin flame retardant. Silicone lignin flame retardant has good heat resistance, oxidation resistance and smoke suppression. The introduction of organosilicon contributes to the formation of a uniform and dense carbon layer, aiding in the reduction of carbon emissions. The nano-modified lignin flame retardant, due to the presence of nanoscale, exhibits a higher specific surface area, facilitating contact with the material surface and enhancing flame retardant effectiveness. At the same time, the dispersion of lignin nanoparticles in the material can form a gas phase barrier effect, slow down the combustion spread and improve the flame retardancy.
    Through physical synergy and chemical grafting modification, the flame retardant effect of lignin is improved. There are problems in the use of traditional flame retardants. Such as, high toxicity, serious environmental pollution and high energy consumption. These problems seriously restrict the sustainable development of flame retardant industry. The preparation of lignin flame retardant is an effective way to improve environmental protection and flame retardancy. Lignin flame retardants can carbonize combustibles at high temperatures to produce porous carbon materials and release some harmless gases. As a result, lignin flame retardant is more environmentally friendly and efficient. Therefore, lignin flame retardant become a research hotspot for the sustainable development of flame retardant industry.
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    Melt spinning of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) fibers and their structure and properties
    FAN Yangrui, QIAN Jianhua, YU Deyou, GUO Yuhai, DAI Hongxiang, LI Chengcai
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (7): 42-47.  
    Abstract161)      PDF (2616KB)(119)       Save
    Polyvinyl chloride is a non-toxic, odorless, and widely used thermoplastic material. It has advantages such as good flame retardancy, acid and alkali resistance, low price, good physical properties, and electrical insulation. It is currently one of the most widely used plastics. However, due to its poor stability to light and heat, it can decompose and produce hydrogen chloride when exposed to sunlight above 100 ℃ or for a long time, causing discoloration and rapid decline in physical and mechanical properties. When applying, it is necessary to add plasticizers, heat stabilizers, and other additives to improve the stability of PVC materials to light and heat. The traditional methods for PVC spinning and forming are wet spinning and dry spinning, but both methods require PVC resin to swell in acetone. However, acetone itself is toxic, and solvent recovery is harmful to the environment. The melt spinning method lags behind other technologies due to the poor heat resistance of PVC and its thermal decomposition and carbonization at high temperatures.
    This article used heat stabilizers and plasticizers to modify PVC resin to make it resistant to high temperatures and enable smooth melt spinning. The melt spinning process of PVC fibers was studied. The melt flow index instrument was used to test the melting temperature of PVC granules to preliminarily determine the optimal spinning temperature. The effects of different spinning temperatures and drafting ratios on the structure and properties of PVC fibers were studied. And research on the breaking strength, elongation at break, crystallinity, surface and cross-sectional morphology, as well as acid and alkali corrosion resistance and flame retardancy of the fibers were conducted. Through comparative experiments, it is found that the optimal comprehensive mechanical properties of PVC fibers are obtained when the screw temperature is 160 ℃ and the spinneret temperature is 190 ℃. When the drawing ratio is 4, the breaking strength and orientation of PVC fibers are the highest. The best spinning parameters obtained from the experiment are as follows: the spinneret is 1 cm away from the water bath, the screw temperature is 160 ℃, the spinneret temperature is 190 ℃, the hot water bath temperature is 60 ℃, the metering pump pressure is 2 MPa, and the drafting ratio is 4. Under such conditions, the PVC fibers prepared have the best performance, and their breaking strength, breaking elongation, and Linear density are 1.16 cN/dtex, 32.1%, and 12 tex, respectively; PVC fibers have excellent mechanical properties, good flame retardancy, and excellent resistance to acid and alkali corrosion. They have minimal loss of quality and strength in acid and alkali solutions, especially in acidic solutions. 
    The use of melt spinning technology to prepare PVC fibers has the advantages of simple process and low price. And the PVC fibers obtained through melt spinning have excellent properties and can be used to prepare corrosion-resistant and flame-retardant fabrics.
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    Research on consumer demand for down jacket in Russia based on cross-border E-commerce
    KANG Lei, ZHANG Yu
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (8): 108-116.  
    Abstract156)      PDF (1453KB)(17)       Save
    In the history of bilateral trade in China and Russia, Russia has always been an important export market in China. Because of the geographical location of Russia, its people have high demand for winter clothing products. In this context, Chinese suppliers provide more targeted high quality winter clothing for the Russian clothing market, which will further promote the development of bilateral clothing trade. However, in the field of domestic consumer demand research, most of the research targets are domestic consumers, and foreign consumers account for only a few.
    In order to promote the development of the foreign trade clothing industry in my country and Russia, and effectively guide domestic companies to enter the reverse custom production model, this article uses the Russian e-commerce platform Wildberries as the source of data to obtain online comments from down jacket clothing products. After preprocessing online comments, use the method of combining high frequency vocabulary extraction and cluster algorithm extracts consumer evaluation dimensions from it, obtains three first level evaluation dimensions, and ten second level evaluation dimensions; during the analysis of consumer demand, sentiment analysis is conducted on the manually annotated online comment dataset through three indicators: consumer evaluation dimension weight, emotional positivity rate, and progress to be improved, ultimately obtaining feedback information from clothing consumers. The results indicate that product quality has the greatest impact on the overall emotional orientation of consumers in the primary dimension, followed by product appearance and service quality. In terms of product quality, although warmth retention is the most important clothing characteristic of down jackets, it ranks only third in the overall emotional tendency of consumers; The top ranking is the fit, which is also the most in need of improvement. Among the other secondary dimensions, color and customer service have the greatest impact on the overall emotional orientation of consumers, both of which need further improvement. In the future, China's foreign trade clothing enterprises should not only increase corresponding sizes in the design and production process, but also consider consumer preferences for colors and warmth needs. Sales parties should pay attention to improving customer service quality in the service provision process to enhance consumer satisfaction, ultimately promoting domestic enterprises to enter the reverse customization production mode and promoting the development of bilateral trade.
    In future research, in order to use data more effectively, deep learning technology can be used to automatically analyze online reviews, efficiently and accurately extract keywords and themes, and identify consumer preferences and feedback; Incorporate it into the training sample, you can better understand the all characteristics of the demand for down jacket consumers.
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    Research progress in the preparation and application of melt-blown nonwovens
    LIU Chena, YANG Kailua, CHEN Mingxinga, b, WANG Xinyaa, b, ZHANG Weia, b
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (5): 116-129.  
    Abstract154)      PDF (1274KB)(183)       Save
    As the global COVID-19 epidemic is raging, nonwovens with functions such as air liquid filtration, disinfection and antibacterial properties are rapidly becoming a hot topic of attention. As a new textile material, melt-blown nonwovens have the advantages of good flexibility, high air permeability, simple manufacturing process and low cost. Compared with woven fabrics, nonwoven fabrics have shorter production process, faster speed, wider fiber selection range, and smaller minimum unit fineness. Especially in terms of porosity, the total porosity of nonwoven filter mats can reach more than 80%. In view of the advantages of melt-blown nonwoven materials, now people have been applied to air filtration, liquid filtration, medical antibacterial disinfection, intelligent electronic textiles and other fields. This paper summarized the latest research progress of melt-blown nonwovens in raw material selection, manufacturing process, structure design and application, and prospected the research and development prospects. In order to clarify the future development direction, on the basis of existing technology and problems, it is very important to sum up how to develop melt-blown nonwovens with new technology and new properties in the future.
    At present, there are a lot of research progress and achievements in melt-blown nonwoven materials. For example, polylactic acid (PLA) is used as raw material, and the melt-blown nonwoven materials with green environmental protection and degradable function are developed by melt-blown process. The materials can be manufactured by introducing polyethylene glycol or mixing PLA and polycaprolactone, and the toughness of the materials is better than that of pure PLA melt-blown nonwoven materials, and they can be used for air filtration and other aspects to reduce environmental pollution and resource waste. By chemical modification of polypropylene (PP) melt-blown nonwovens, PP nonwovens can obtain self-cleaning, super hydrophobic, ultra-high filtration efficiency and other functions, so as to be better used in human production and life. Microfiber nonwovens prepared by melt-blown nonwovens have the characteristics of large specific surface area, small pore size and high porosity. Therefore, compared with nonwovens made by other processes, melt-blow nonwovens have significant advantages in filter, shielding, heat insulation and oil absorption, and they can be widely used in warm keeping, filtration, oil absorption, medical health, industrial and family wiper cloth, sound insulation and other fields. One of the representative applications of filter materials is the mask, melt-blow material is the core of the mask, playing the main filtering role.
    At present, due to technical limitations, it is slightly difficult to innovate the equipment and process of domestic melt-blown nonwoven materials in the short term. Therefore, the innovation of melt-blown nonwovens mainly focuses on the research of raw materials. The melt-blown nonwovens in the market are basically made of PP, and the PP melt-blown nonwovens occupy almost all the share of the melt-blown market. However, the use of single material undoubtedly limits the development and application of melt-blown materials to a certain extent. The development of textile industry and textile technology has played a vital role in the evolution of human civilization. With the development of the scientific and technological level, some advantages and suitable development directions of melt-blown nonwovens materials have been found. Melt-blown nonwovens materials are developing towards multi-function, environmental protection, recyclability and better benefiting human beings. The function modification and function enhancement of melt-blown nonwovens are developing vigorously. At present, PET, PP or other composite filter media are mainly used in China, and although much attention has been paid to the application of high-performance fiber filter materials, it is still necessary to increase research and development efforts, especially in the structural design and finishing.  It is necessary to improve product performance through optimizing the product structure, so that the filter media has the advantages of high efficiency, low resistance, easy cleaning and long service life. In addition, there still lacks authoritative testing and certification bodies of high temperature-resistant filter materials in China, which restricts the entry of high-performance filter material into the high-end market to a certain extent, so it is necessary to increase the investment of testing institutions and testing equipment.
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    Effect of twist coefficient ratio on the performance of strands and fabric
    CHEN Xingdong, LIU Xinjin
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (5): 41-50.  
    Abstract152)      PDF (1704KB)(59)       Save
    The most critical process parameter of the strand production is the twist coefficient, including the single yarn twist coefficient and the strand twist coefficient, which not only directly affects the hand feel, volume density, wear resistance, color absorption, feather and fuzzing and pilling of the strand, but also has a great influence on the strong extension performance of the strand. Understanding the relationship between the strand and the strong extension performance of the yarn plays an important role in ensuring the product quality, developing new varieties and guiding the spinning process.
    To reflect the twist coefficient ratio of strand performance, with the polyester coarse yarn and pure cotton coarse yarn as raw materials, we spun 18.5tex polyester single yarn and 29.5tex cotton single yarn by changing the twist coefficient ratio, further spun the single yarn into two strands and three strands of polyester and pure cotton, respectively by reverse twisting, and explored the twist coefficient ratio on the strength and elongation, evenness and fabric property of the corresponding double strands and three strands. 
     In this project, the twist design is opposite to the single yarn. Specifically, Z twist is used for single yarn, with the twist coefficient being 340 twist/10cm, while S twist is adopted for two-strand yarns, with the twist coefficient ratios being the two sides, the middle and the end points of  and 2, namely 0.6,, 1, and 1.5. For three-strand yarns, the twist design opposite to that of single yarn is adopted. Specifically, Z twist is used for single yarn while S twist is adopted for three-strand yarns, with the twist coefficient ratios being the two sides, the middle and the end points of  and , namely 0.7, , 1.2,  and 1.8. The properties of the spun two-strand yarns, three-strand yarns and fabrics thereof are tested and analyzed, which is of great research significance.
    The results show that with the increase of the twist coefficient ratio, the two-strand yarn and three-strand yarn of the two materials have two design twist coefficient ratios. The two design twist coefficient ratios of the two-strand yarn are  and , and those of the three-strand yarn are  and . When the twist coefficient ratio of the two-strand yarn and three-strand yarn is  and , respectively, the strength and elongation, yarn unevenness and H value of hairiness are the optimal. Whether it is two-strand yarn or three-strand yarn, the fabric with the second design twist ratio has better tearing and tensile properties than the fabric with the first design twist ratio under the same conditions. We study the effect of changing spinning parameters on yarn properties with different twist ratios, spinning modes and twist coefficients. We then optimize the yarn test results, and then spin the yarn with the last comprehensive performance as the raw material to test the fabric properties, and study the influence of different yarn properties on the fabric properties, which has great research significance for weaving woven fabrics with better performance.
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    Research progress on detection of yarn evenness
    GENG Cong, , WANG Chengquna, XU Weiqiang,
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (7): 33-41.  
    Abstract150)      PDF (1130KB)(35)       Save
    The evenness of yarn is an important parameter for evaluating the quality and texture of yarn. Therefore, the accurate and rapid measurement of yarn evenness occupies a very important position in the entire textile industry. Currently, there are three main techniques used for measuring yarn evenness: capacitive detection, optical detection, and image processing detection. This article describes the basic characteristics of yarn, introduces the evaluation indicators for measuring yarn evenness, and provides a comprehensive overview of the design principles and basic structures of these three different techniques for measuring yarn evenness. Additionally, the article summarizes the research directions of each technique, presents and analyzes the research achievements of these three techniques in different areas, and summarizes their advantages, limitations, and applicable scenarios. Furthermore, considering the current development of yarn evenness measurement techniques, the article explores the future prospects and directions for the development of these three techniques.

        The progress of the textile industry is driving the upgrade and iteration of yarn evenness detection technology. Traditional methods for evenness detection are no longer able to meet the high-precision and high-speed requirements in industrial applications. Among the three main technologies, capacitive detection is the most widely used and applied in mainstream evenness detection instruments. Capacitive detection primarily utilizes air capacitance as a sensing component to obtain the evenness index of the yarn relatively easily. However, this method can introduce errors due to variations in moisture content and blending ratio of the yarn. With the advancement of high-precision optical sensors, optical detection has gained wider application. Optical detection involves projecting a light beam onto the surface of the yarn and using optical sensors to collect corresponding data for analysis, thereby obtaining the evenness of the yarn. This method is susceptible to errors caused by factors such as hairiness and tension. On the other hand, the method based on digital image processing utilizes computers and high-resolution image sensors to perform detection using machine vision. It can provide relatively accurate measurements of yarn evenness and detect yarn defects that may not be easily identified by the previous two methods. However, challenges such as slow detection speed and high system architecture costs currently limit its ability to accurately measure the evenness of high-speed moving yarn.

       The textile industry plays a crucial role in the national economy. As a pillar industry supporting economic and social development, it not only serves as the foundation industry for meeting people's living needs and improving their quality of life but also represents an advantageous industry for international cooperation and integration. In this context, the rapid and accurate assessment of yarn evenness has significant implications for the healthy development of the textile industry. This article analyzes three widely used techniques for measuring yarn evenness: capacitive detection, optical detection, and image processing detection. It summarizes their respective technical characteristics and makes comparisons among them. Each technique has its unique advantages and limitations. Future research should focus on further optimizing these techniques, starting from practical needs, to improve detection speed, precision, accuracy, and stability. It should also address the upcoming technical challenges to achieve more accurate, efficient, and automated measurement of yarn evenness. In addition, it is worth considering the integration of different techniques to form a diversified system for measuring yarn evenness, catering to the needs of different stages in textile production. For example, by leveraging industrial Internet of Things (IoT) technology, an open digital infrastructure can be designed to collect the maximum value from data gathered throughout the production process through machine networking and integration of information flow from the workshop to the cloud. Ultimately, the development and application of these technologies will contribute to improving the quality and efficiency of textile production, driving the overall development of the textile sector.
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    Influence of vortices within the rotor's condensation slot on yarn quality based on Ω vortex identification method 
    QIAN Miao, YANG Zhenbin, SHI Huanqiang, XIANG Zhong, Zhang Jianxin
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (7): 13-21.  
    Abstract144)      PDF (4156KB)(48)       Save
    Rotor spinning utilizes airflow as a driving force to achieve operations such as fiber transport and aggregation. The characteristics of the airflow field during the spinning process directly impact the spinning results. The article employs simulation software to model the movement of airflow within the rotor, investigating the correlation between the airflow field inside the rotor and the quality of yarn. This research provides valuable guidance for enhancing the structure of rotor spinning.
             In order to more accurately identify and analyze the vortex patterns within the complex and dynamic flow field inside the rotor in air-jet spinning, a vortex identification method that combines the Ω vortex determination criteria with image processing is proposed. The method involves analyzing the flow field within the rotor obtained through simulation using FLUENT. This analysis provides insights into the number and area of vortices on the plane of the condensation slot and further explores
            According to the simulation analysis, the results indicate that the distribution of static pressure values on the rotor's surface is uneven, leading to varying pressures at different locations across the rotor. Within the fiber delivery channel, the static pressure gradually increases to -7 kPa as the channel diameter decreases. Notably, there is a substantial static pressure gradient change on the wall surface near the channel outlet.  Inside the rotor, the fastest airflow velocity is observed at the location of the condensation slot, forming a circular ring of high velocity. The middle section of the rotor experiences slower airflow velocities, extending to the entrance of the yarn guide tube. On the side of the rotor closer to the fiber delivery channel, there is a long strip-like region with higher airflow velocity.  Observing the vortices identified using the Ω method, it is evident that this approach has a superior ability to capture vortices within the plane. It not only captures the larger vortices displayed in streamline plots but also effectively captures smaller vortices within the condensation slot that may not be discernible in streamline plots. Additionally, vortices within the condensation slot are primarily concentrated at the outlet of the fiber delivery channel and at the intersection of airflow behind it. This phenomenon arises due to the relatively complex airflow movement in these two positions. As the rotational speed increases, the area of smaller vortices inside the rotor's condensation slot also increases.  The vortex area increases from 14.1 mm² to 18.5 mm², leading to an increase in yarn coefficient of variation from 15.33 to 15.99, resulting in decreased overall yarn uniformity. The increase in rotational speed also leads to an increase in the number of coarse and fine nodes on the yarn, resulting in a decline in yarn quality. When the rotor diameter is increased, the area of vortices within the rotor's condensation slot decreases. The vortex area reduces from 15.6 mm² to 10.7 mm², representing a reduction of 31.4%. The coefficient of variation decreases from 15.53 to 15.02, enhancing yarn uniformity and improving the spinning results. 
            The Ω vortex identification method exhibits excellent capturing capability for vortices on the plane of the condensation slot. After undergoing image processing, this method allows for the quantitative analysis of the vortex patterns within the internal airflow field of the spinning cup. Vortices within the condensation slot are mainly concentrated at the outlet of the fiber delivery channel and at the intersection of airflow behind it. Lowering the spinning cup's rotational speed and increasing its diameter can enhance the quality of the yarn
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    Design of electrostatic charge-induced yarn breakage sensors
    LÜ Jingze, DAI Ning, HU Xudong, XU Kaixin, XU Yushan
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (3): 14-20.  
    Abstract144)      PDF (1934KB)(155)       Save
    In the spinning process, yarn breakage detection, especially for fine yarns, is an essential means to improve the performance of spinning equipment. Considering the cost and factors affecting yarn tension, yarn breakage detection in the industry is mainly based on photoelectric non-contact yarn breakage detection. The actual spinning workshop has much cotton wool and dust, which is easy to cause diffuse reflection in the photoelectric detection channel and reduce the sensor's accuracy. At the same time, changes in light intensity in the workshop will also impact the signal received by the opposite photoelectric receiver. In recent years, the spinning industry's image processing related to yarn breakage detection research is also emerging. Still, with the above-mentioned photoelectric detection principle of the same shortcomings, the approach is even more demanding on the light and installation conditions and expensive, with hundreds of spindles in the spinning process being more challenging to promote.
    To promote the yarn breakage detection technology for yarns, especially fine yarns, in the spinning link, it is necessary to reduce the dependence of the existing yarn breakage detection methods on the working link and installation conditions, and reduce the cost of yarn breakage detection. Based on the basic principle of electrostatic inductive detection, the electrostatic charge-induced yarn breakage sensor was constructed, and its overall structure, as well as the design of critical components such as primary signal amplification module, shaping and secondary amplification module, output and display module, were theoretically analyzed and experimentally tested. Finally, the test bench of the electrostatic charge induction yarn breakage sensor was construct to test the degree of influence of the moving yarn speed and its material on the electrostatic charge induction yarn breakage sensor in combination with the mechanism of electrostatic charge induction yarn breakage sensor performance based on the electrostatic charge induction strength.
    On this basis, we statistically analyzed the output point voltage values of the critical module of the electrostatic charge-induced yarn breakage sensor under the simulated working spindle speeds of the spinning machine at 13,600 r/min and 15,000 r/min, as well as under the yarn breakage condition.
    The research found that the speed of the moving yarn and its material are the main influencing factors of the electrostatic charge-induced yarn breakage sensor. Still, the influence is much smaller than the value of the voltage deviation at the output points OUT3 and OUT2 of the back end of the key module of the electrostatic charge-induced yarn breakage sensor when the two states of the moving yarn are broken and unbroken so that this characteristic can be used for the accurate judgment of the broken connection of the yarn.
    The sensor seals the circuit and detection electrodes utilizing a closed aluminium case, which reduces dust and charge interference in the air, facilitates the collection of charge signals, and obtains output voltages with significant variations for identifying different types of yarns with minor charge variations. Therefore, the device has a better state detection effect for the yarn carrying static electricity in the spinning process.
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    Influence of flow field state in fiber delivery tube on the opening and loosening of fiber tows
    WANG Jin, CHENG Hepeng, LI Shuai, LU He, CUI Yongzhi, QIAN Cui'e, YU Hechun
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (3): 29-37.  
    Abstract142)      PDF (3798KB)(61)       Save
    In the chemical fiber industry, the opening treatment of viscose or Lyocell staple fibers is an important process before the finished fiber. The fiber delivery tube,  one of the most important units of the post-treatment equipment, connects the cutting machine and the feed tank, and is used to transport the staple fiber cut off by the cutting machine and the flushing water. The viscose or Lyocell staple fiber cut by the breaker is fed to the feed tank, and the fiber is dispersed during the transportation process, so as to achieve uniform fiber laying of the feed tank, increase the washing effect of the refining machine, and improve the quality of the finished fiber. However, the traditional fiber delivery tube mainly plays the role of transportation, and the requirements for open fibers are not high. It is very important to explore the opening mechanism of bundle fibers and the influence of flow field state on fiber movement state to promote the rational design of fiber delivery tube structure and improve the opening effect of fibers.
    In this paper, based on 3D modeling software and Cradle CFD numerical simulation software, the flow field model and fiber model in the fiber delivery tube were established to simulate the motion state of 2,000 fibers tow with length of 38 mm in the fiber delivery tube. The fluid inflow condition at the inlet of the fiber delivery tube was set as velocity inflow 1 m/s, and the outlet was set as static pressure outflow-natural outflow. The flow field was calculated by using steady state, pressure solver, RNG k-ε turbulence model and wall function method. The convection term was discrete by using second-order upwind scheme and was solved by using PISO algorithm based on SIMPLEC. Through the vector analysis of the pressure field, velocity field and flow field, and the analysis of the motion state of the fiber bundle in the fiber delivery tube, the influence of the flow field in the fiber delivery tube on the fiber movement was explored. The results show that when the fiber bundle enters the vertical pipe, it accelerates under the water flow and its own gravity. Due to the pressure gradient and velocity gradient in the pipeline flow field, the local velocity difference between the conveying process and the conveying fluid in the pipeline results in the opening effect of the fiber dislocation. The velocity of flushing water varies greatly at the bend of the fiber delivery tube, and the resulting velocity gradient is conducive to the opening of the fiber bundle. The flow field velocity gradient of the horizontal pipeline is small, and the speed change is relatively stable, so that the overall fiber is elongated and opened, which improves the fiber opening effect in the transportation process, and guarantees the continuously uniform output. The sudden increase in the diameter of the pipe leads to the vortex of the pipe, which hinders the forward transportation of the fiber. Therefore, for the design of the fiber delivery tube, the sudden increase in the diameter of the pipe tube should be avoided to reduce the phenomenon of fiber entanglement. In this paper, the results of the study describe the basic mechanism of the fiber bundle of opening, and reveal the fiber delivery tube flow field state influence on fiber transmission. Such results can provide reference for the design of the fiber delivery tube of chemical fibers and the textile industry.
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    Parallel Electrode Electroluminescent Yarn Construction Molding and its Water Rescue Wearable Application
    ZHAO Shikang, WANG Hang, TIAN Mingwei
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (4): 45-51.  
    Abstract135)      PDF (6218KB)(62)       Save
    Electroluminescent yarn has been a research hotspot in recent decades due to its extensive prospect in the field of intelligent display applications, such as human-computer interaction and emergency warning. The basic principle of electroluminescence is the phenomenon of electric current excitation to produce light, specifically when the current passes through some specific materials, it will excite the electronic energy level transition in the material, thereby emitting visible or near-infrared light. However, the DC drive mode of organic light-emitting diodes and quantum dot-based light-emitting diodes limits their practical application. This is because unidirectional DC flow can lead to unfavorable charge accumulation at high current densities. In addition, power loss is unavoidable. Therefore, AC-driven electroluminescent devices have attracted attention for various applications.
    At present, the main preparation methods of luminescent fibers include integrated circuit method, spraying method and intercalation method. The integrated circuit method is mainly achieved by integrating luminescent materials, electrode fibers and other components; The spraying method is to spray the luminescent material in the form of a solution or powder on the conductive wire, and encapsulate it with an insulating material; The embedding method is mainly prepared by embedding luminescent materials into yarns. However, in the molding process of light-emitting optical fiber, there are inevitably shortcomings such as time-consuming production process and high cost, which greatly limits the large-scale production of outgoing light-emitting optical fiber and restricts its practical application. Therefore, there are still significant challenges in developing a cost-effective and feasible method to manufacture luminescent fibers/yarns.
    Therefore, in this paper, a parallel electrode electroluminescent yarn structure is designed, and a parallel electrode electroluminescent yarn is prepared by using zinc sulfide doped copper (ZnS: Gu) electroluminescent composite material as the luminescent layer and conductive silver-plated yarn as the flexible electrode. The luminous yarn can reach a brightness of up to 161.71 cd/m2 (700 V, 8 kHz), and PELF  - 60%has good wearing performance and water insulation properties, which can be used for water rescue and warning clothing, and has a broad application prospect in visual interaction and environmental warning.
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    Performance of antibacterial clothing fabric with the composite functions of thermal-moisture comfort
    LIU Xiaohan, WANG Yuxuan, XIE Wen, ZHANG Hongxia
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (4): 52-59.  
    Abstract135)      PDF (1921KB)(75)       Save
    In recent years, multi-functional composite healthy and comfortable fabrics are the development direction of current fabrics. Under the high temperature in summer, the human body will produce a lot of sweat after exercise. As a product in direct contact with the human body, clothing is easy to attach to the skin surface and form a high temperature and humidity climate environment with it, and produce sticky, stuffy and airtight feeling. And because of the porous structure and large specific surface area, it is easy to absorb sweat and a large amount of oil secreted by human metabolism, providing a good environment for the attachment and reproduction of bacteria and other microorganisms. The pungent odor and indirect transmission produced in the process of reproduction are also important sources and transmission routes of diseases, thus bringing hidden dangers to human health. In summer activities and work, a long time of humid and sultry environment will make the skin more prone to allergy and other inflammatory reactions and accelerate skin aging. The development of multi-functional composite fabrics with moisture absorption and quick drying, antibacterial and thermal comfort has a certain market prospect.
    At present, the thermal-moisture comfort function of fabric is relatively simple, and there is little research on the multifunctional composite of fabrics realized by functional fiber mixing. The fabric modification for the hot and humid environment is mainly for the improvement of the functions such as moisture absorption and quick drying, antibacterial and heat transfer. To develop healthy and comfortable clothing fabrics under humid and hot conditions, a total of 16 types of fabrics, including A and B series, were woven with mulberry silk as warp and a blend of honeycomb antibacterial polyester fibers, tencel, honeycomb UV resistant polyester fibers, and honeycomb jade polyester fibers as weft. By testing the performance of moisture absorption, quick drying, antibacterial and heat transfer, the heat and humidity comfort was evaluated by fuzzy comprehensive analysis. The results show that the moisture absorption and quick drying properties of the yarn is related to its type, weave and density. The inhibitory effect of fabric on S. aureus and E. coli is positively correlated with the content of cellular antibacterial polyester fiber in latitude yarn, and the inhibitory effect of S. aureus is better than that of E. coli. The thermal resistance of fabric decreases with the increase of tencel content in yarn, and the heat transfer performance of fabric is best when honeycomb jade polyester fiber is contained. The results of fuzzy comprehensive analysis indicate that in the A series, the fabric woven with tencel/honeycomb antibacterial polyester fiber/honeycomb ultraviolet resistant polyester fiber (30/60/10) as weft and 16 reinforced weft satin has the best comprehensive performance; the comprehensive performance of the fabric in the B series is the best when the weft density is 46 roots/cm.
    We explore the influence of fiber content ratio, fabric weave and fabric weft on the antibacterial, thermal-moisture comfort of the blended yarn, and the research results can provide reference for the design and development of multi-functional fabrics, contribute to the development of composite functional fabrics with better comprehensive performance, and promote the development of clothing fabrics in a more high-grade, more accurate and more scientific direction.
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    The impact of virtual apparel on physical apparel consumption from a sustainable perspective
    LU Chenga, b, CHEN Ziye
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (4): 104-113.  
    Abstract134)      PDF (1064KB)(65)       Save
    The post-epidemic era has witnessed a rapid shift in consumption patterns towards online channels. The convergence of information technology and the fashion industry has given rise to the virtual apparel. Virtual apparel, which is rooted in a digital creation mode, possesses various advantages such as creativity, inclusivity, and sustainability. Consequently, it has garnered significant attention from capital investors, and numerous traditional apparel brands to launch virtual apparel lines. The investment potential and sustainable value of virtual apparel are highly anticipated. Nowadays, virtual apparel has diversified its forms, extending beyond the realm of traditional virtual try-on experiences. Photo modeling and other forms of social media dissemination have attracted widespread public attention and generated intense discussions. These developments offer new opportunities for brand promotion and the expansion of consumer groups. However, it should be noted that the virtual trading market is still in its nascent stages, and brands' profitability continues to rely on the sale of physical products. As a result, many brands are currently focusing on leveraging virtual apparel for publicity and promotional purposes. Nevertheless, this marketing strategy is still in its early exploratory phase, and it remains uncertain whether virtual apparel can effectively drive brand promotion and physical product sales. Additionally, while existing literature has analyzed the value system of virtual apparel and acknowledged its role in brand promotion and sustainable value, most of these discussions are theoretical in nature and lack empirical research to substantiate their claims.
    We aimed to explore the commercial value of virtual apparel in physical apparel consumption and facilitate the sustainable development of the industry. Firstly, we conducted a comprehensive review of the research progress on virtual apparel both domestically and internationally since the 20th century to identify the current hotspots and deficiencies in related research. Secondly, based on product attributes and technology acceptance model, we used physical apparel attitude as a predictor variable of physical apparel purchase intention, introduced the two variables of aesthetic and technology attributes of virtual apparel, and discussed the influence factors of the attributes of virtual clothing on the attitude of physical clothing. Additionally, we verified the chain mediating role of perceived usefulness, perceived ease of use and brand attitude. Finally, we conducted a questionnaire survey to collect relevant data based on the model assumptions, analyzed their reliability and validity, and employed regression analysis to verify the assumptions and provide theoretical support for brand to design and applicate the virtual apparel. This research not only expands the scope of applied research of the technology acceptance model but also enriches the research perspective of virtual apparel. Additionally, it provides empirical evidence for the sustainable value of virtual apparel and fills the gap in empirical research regarding the exploration of the commercial value of virtual apparel. The study results indicate that virtual aesthetics and technology have a significantly positive effect on physical apparel attitudes. This effect is mediated by perceived usefulness and brand attitudes, with appearance consistency playing a positively moderating role in the relationship between brand attitudes and physical apparel attitudes. This study affirms the marketing value of virtual apparel in facilitating brand promotion and promoting physical consumption. According to the results, when designing virtual garments, brands should fully leverage their digital creation advantages to enhance consumers' perception of the usefulness of virtual garments in terms of both aesthetics and technology. Moreover, brands should pay greater attention to the technological content of virtual apparel rather than the aesthetic effect, so as to give it more digital vitality and highlight its digital technology characteristics. Meanwhile, traditional fashion brands should focus on the simulation of virtual apparel to enhance the realism of its appearance. This method can drive profitable growth in physical garment sales and reduce the consumption of physical materials in traditional brand promotions. 
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    Research progress in moisture-absorbing and quick-drying materials
    ZHANG Yuexuan, LIU Ya, ZHUANG Xupin, QIU Mengying
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (4): 114-124.  
    Abstract134)      PDF (5191KB)(105)       Save
    The market size of moisture-absorbing and quick-drying materials is increasing day by day. To develop moisture-absorbing and quick-drying materials that better meet market demand and expand their application fields, we analyzed moisture-absorbing and quick-drying materials from several aspects. Firstly, we made a detailed introduction to the mechanisms of moisture-absorbing and quick-drying materials, including differential capillary effect, wetting gradient structure, and biomimetic transpiration, and listed corresponding models developed in recent years. Then, we divided the common moisture-absorbing and quick-drying fibers in the market into natural fibers and chemical fibers, and stated the characteristics, advantages, disadvantages, and application scope of different fibers. Additionally, we listed the current moisture-absorbing and quick-drying standards of common countries and standard organizations, as well as the main performance grading of moisture-absorbing and quick-drying materials in China's moisture-absorbing and quick-drying standards, and listed some problems in the standards and operational plans that can be implemented.
    We divided moisture-absorbing and quick-drying materials into moisture-absorbing and quick-drying woven fabrics, knitted fabrics, and non-woven materials. We introduced the research achievements and development status of various materials in recent years, including: woven fabrics prepared by Tao Fengyi et al. by using viscose fibers and honeycomb microporous polyester fibers as raw materials, and changing the arrangement of fiber materials in the thickness direction of the fabric to present different moisture-absorbing effects on the inner and outer layers of the fabric. Wang Yue et al. used green and environmentally friendly Tencel and recycled polyester to design a new type of three-dimensional moisture conductive double-sided knitted fabric that accelerates the passage of gas and liquid, effectively reducing the contact tightness between the fabric and the skin, ensuring moisture absorbing and quick drying, while improving the lightness and comfort of the fabric. Finally, we summarized the existing problems and possible solutions of moisture absorption and rapid drying based on the post-processing technology. In terms of non-woven materials, in addition to arranging and combining various new environmentally friendly fibers with traditional non-woven processes such as water spunlace, needle punching, and hot air to obtain moisture-absorbing and quick-drying materials, there are various materials produced by electrospinning technology. For example, Song et al. prepared a non-woven material with a wetting gradient structure composed of hydrophobic chitosan fibers and hydrophilic adhesive fibers through water spunlace technology. When 90% of the fibers are hydrophobic and the hydrophobic layer exceeds a high thickness of 1.6mm, the material can still achieve anisotropic water penetration and has high wear resistance and environmental friendliness.
    We summarized and classified the moisture-absorbing and quick-drying finishing processes into plasma treatment, photochemical treatment, electrostatic spraying, and laser processing. By depositing low surface energy materials on hydrophilic fabrics, the material surface underwent oxidation, cross-linking, chemical bond breakage, etc. under sunlight or ultraviolet radiation. Under high potential, very fine droplets were sprayed from the tube to control the coating thickness. Laser processing was used to change the micro nano scale morphology and other finishing processes, which can accurately change the moisture-absorbing and quick-drying rate of the material.
    Finally, we explored the development potential of current moisture-absorbing and quick-drying materials. In response to the current situation of moisture-absorbing and quick-drying fibers, we proposed three problems to be solved from the perspective of fibers and two problems to be solved from the perspective of materials, and provided possible solutions. There is no complete conclusion on the study of the interaction between fibers and water molecules, the influence of the depth and quantity of irregular cross-section fiber grooves used in moisture-absorbing and quick-drying materials on differential capillary effect, and the application should shift towards the development of green and environmentally friendly fibers, as well as more research and development of natural fibers with high moisture-absorbing and quick-drying performance. In terms of materials, simple and effective methods should be developed to achieve low-cost industrial production of moisture-absorbing and quick-drying materials. In the meanwhile, various post-processing technologies that combine green environmental protection performance, good mechanical performance, and stable and efficient moisture-absorbing and quick-drying performance should be more closely combined with the preparation of moisture-absorbing and quick-drying materials.
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    Research progress on the application of flexible fabric sensors in smart socks
    XU Jiashi, WU Qiaoying
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (11): 1-14.  
    Abstract134)      PDF (8953KB)(97)       Save
    With the development of the times and the progress of science and technology, smart wearable devices have received extensive attention from researchers. Among various wearable devices, smart socks are expected to play an important role in the fields of health monitoring, athletic training and therapy, disease prevention and interactive learning because of their comfort, softness, high precision, small size and convenience.
    In recent years, the application of smart wearable devices is getting increasingly important in people’s daily life. Devices with characteristics of softness, comfort, compactness, convenience, and skin-friendliness have become a research hotspot. And in order to meet people’s demand of comfort and convenience, smart wearable devices are gradually developing towards flexibility and miniaturization, which gradually makes textiles with small volume, good softness, breathableness and friendliness an ideal carrier for smart wearable devices. The flexible fabric sensor, with the advantages of lightness, thinness, breathableness, softness, deformability, and high integration with other materials, sees great development potential and can be highly adaptable to smart socks. Smart socks for pressure monitoring can identify the wearer’s gait information, thus providing gait assistance. They can also be used for disease prevention or treatment; smart socks for temperature monitoring can prevent venous congestion and foot ulcers. Smart socks with multi-functional monitoring are widely used in sports health, disease prevention, human-computer interaction and other fields. As smart socks continue to expand their application range, future research should focus on the development of comfortable and intelligent materials and better integration methods. In such a way, the daily use of smart socks can be realized.  
    The flexibility and skin-friendliness of flexible fabric sensors are crucial for smart socks. Smart socks can be highly integrated with flexible fabric sensors while meeting the condition of being ideal carriers. At present, smart socks have broad application prospects in gait recognition, disease prevention, motion monitoring, human-computer interaction and other fields. With further optimization and development, smart socks are expected to realize the daily usage and bring us more intelligent life experiences.
    As a foot wearable device, smart socks have great potential in the smart wearable field. In the future, these exquisite and multi-functional smart socks are expected to be integrated into people’s daily life. They are not only wearable, but also play an important role in sports monitoring, health monitoring, disease prevention, human-computer interaction and other fields. Although smart socks have been developed in a variety of styles and functions, their durability, wearability and scale remain as problems that researchers need to face and solve. Therefore, it is necessary to improve the materials, integrated processes, and energy supply methods of flexible fabric sensors to speed up the daily usage of smart socks.
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    Preparation and performance of polyurethane nanofiber membrane for air filtration#br#
    LI Jinchao, MEI Shuo, DU Yujia, MA Biao, LI Hong
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (5): 18-22.  
    Abstract133)      PDF (6356KB)(78)       Save
    The damage of air pollution to human health is receiving more and more attention with the development of society. Protective materials for isolating harmful particles, bacteria, viruses and other harmful microorganisms have attracted unprecedented attention due to the unexpected COVID-19 in the past three years. Preparing more efficient and low-resistance air filter materials has important practical significance.
    Nanofiber membranes prepared by electrospinning technology have the advantages of smaller fiber diameter and higher porosity compared with traditional filter materials. They have been a hot research in the field of high efficiency air filtration in recent years. To expand the application of electrospun nanofiber membranes in the air filtration field and to develop more efficient and low-resistance air filtration materials, polyurethane was used as the raw material, tetrahydrofuran (THF) and N, N-dimethylformamide (DMF) were used as solvents in this paper. The polyurethane nanofibers prepared by electrospinning had dendritic branches by adding different kinds of salts to the spinning solution, and the conductivity of the spinning solution was increased. The dendritic structures made the pore size of the nanofiber membranes smaller to further improve the filtration efficiency. The influences of the spinning voltage, salt type and addition on the morphology, hydrophobicity and air filtration of the fiber membrane were studied. The results show that at a solution concentration of 14%, the type of salt and spinning voltage have great influence on the branching structure, and the branching structure of polyurethane nanofiber membranes is most obvious when the TBAC is added with the spinning voltage being 35 KV. Meanwhile, The contact angle of fiber membranes decreases from 99.1° to 82.8° with the addition of the salts (the hydrophilicity of membrane materials increases), which can improve the moisture absorption and moisture conductivity of air filter materials in a certain level. The filtration performance is significantly improved (the filtration efficiency increases from 50.8% to 93.6%). The branching superfine nanofibers can further reduce the pore size of the ninafiber membrane, which can separate smaller size particles; the specific surface area increases as the fiber becomes thinner, and thus the contact area between particles and fibers increases; the probability of adsorbing and capturing particles increases, and thus increases the filtration efficiency of the fiber membrane. At the same time, due to the smaller diameter, the resistance of the branched ultrafine nanofibers is correspondingly reduced, so that the filtration resistance of the filter material is also maintained at a low level, and the quality factor that can reflect the comprehensive filtration performance of the filter material is improved from 0.009 to 0.073. Therefore, ultrafine nanofibers are suitable for high-efficiency and low-resistance air filtration materials. 
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    High-temperature resistance of ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene fibers
    XUE Shuyun, YE Wei, WANG Zheng, XIA Pingyuan, GUAN Yongyin
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (3): 53-60.  
    Abstract133)      PDF (4777KB)(159)       Save
    Due to the unique structural characteristics of ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) fibers, fiber materials possess several excellent properties including lightweight, high strength, low temperature resistance, resistance to UV radiation, chemical corrosion resistance, high energy absorption, low dielectric constant, high electromagnetic wave transmittance, low friction coefficient, and outstanding performance in terms of impact resistance and cut resistance. The melting point of UHMWPE fibers is higher than that of ordinary polyethylene fibers at 134 ℃. However, compared to other high-performance fibers such as aramid and carbon fibers, UHMWPE fibers have poor high-temperature resistance, which limits their application range. Currently, research on the thermal stability of UHMWPE fibers in both domestic and international contexts mainly focuses on fiber spinning, low-temperature composites, and application environments. These studies are of importance in analyzing the thermodynamic properties of UHMWPE fibers. Recent studies have shown that UHMWPE fibers can be composite with thermoplastic polyurethane, polyvinyl chloride, and other resins to produce lightweight and high-strength membrane materials. However, in the process of hot-pressing composite processing, UHMWPE fibers need to withstand short-term high-temperature and high-pressure conditions. The processing environment temperature in these processes is high, reaching or exceeding the melting point of the material. As for the impact of transient high temperature in the thermal processing process on fiber structure and mechanical properties, no research reports have been found.
    In response to the shortcomings of low melting point and easy creep of UHMWPE fibers, the mechanical stability performance of UHMWPE fibers under different hot-pressing temperatures and times was studied under the testing conditions of composite material hot-pressing processing environment. Through instruments such as differential scanning calorimeter, thermogravimetric analyzer, scanning electron microscope, X-ray diffractometer, Fourier transform infrared spectrometer and mechanical performance tester, the thermal stability performance and microstructure of UHMWPE fibers were characterized and analyzed. The results showed that the hot-pressing temperature and time had a significant impact on the performance of UHMWPE fibers. Under hot-pressing treatment of 150 ℃ or below, the mechanical properties of UHMWPE fibers changed little with the increase of hot-pressing time; under hot-pressing treatment of 160 ℃ or above, the long-term heat treatment led to a significant decrease in the mechanical properties of UHMWPE fibers. When the yarns were treated at 160 °C for 40 s, the breaking strength was 153 N, and the strength loss was 46.50%. When the hot-pressing temperature was higher than the melting point of the fibers, their strength dropped rapidly. When they were treated at 170 ℃ for 10 s, the strength dropped to 121 N, and the strength loss reached 57.80%.
    The research on the effects of molding temperature and molding time during the processing of UHMWPE fibers on fiber structure, surface morphology, and mechanical properties has clarified that the temperature and time during the composite processing have a significant impact on the performance of UHMWPE fibers. Suitable composite processing techniques can promote the application of UHMWPE fibers in various fields. The research findings provide necessary references for determining the composite processing technology of UHMWPE fiber materials.
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    Research on visual recognition method of spinning frame under complex environment
    YAN Xiaopeng, YANG Yaning
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (7): 22-32.  
    Abstract133)      PDF (18225KB)(33)       Save
    In the textile manufacturing industry, the process of yarn dropping in spinning machine is critical as it directly impacts yarn quality, production output, and factory operations. Traditional automatic fine yarn dropping machines, while capable of performing operations automatically, often suffer from imprecise of operations, resulting in missed of empty tube insertion or tube yarn extraction during the yarn dropping process. The current coping approach is to assign dedicated personnel to track, inspect, and address the issue, which increases labor costs and restricts the level of automation and intelligence in the workshop.
    This paper aims to address the issues of yarn tube extraction missing and empty tube insertion missing in traditional automatic fine yarn dropping machines by introducing machine vision technology to accurately identify tube yarns and yarn spindles, thereby reducing the probability of missed extractions and insertions in subsequent operations. However, traditional image processing techniques face challenges in complex fine yarn workshop environments, such as complex target backgrounds, lighting variations, obstructions, and shooting angles. In addition, it is necessary to set parameters and thresholds based on experience during the identification process of yarn spindles and tube yarns, which increases the difficulty of recognition. Therefore, accurate identification of tube yarns and yarn spindles is crucial for automatic yarn dropping machines based on machine vision technology. To solve the interference problem of images gathered by visual sensors in workshop environments, this paper proposes a basic image processing method. By adjusting the contrast between the objects and the background, the characteristics of yarn spindles and tube yarns can be highlighted. This method also performs initial and secondary identification in the objects identification process to  obtain the object areas more accurately. In order to further improve the identification accuracy of yarn spindles and tube yarns, the basic image processing method is improved in image preprocessing phase and object identification phase respectively. In the preprocessing phase, image multiplication fusion is used to obtain high-contrast images to reduce the difficulty of subsequent image segmentation. For the interference introduced by the support rod of the spinning machine in the original image, find the nearest two horizontal contour bodies in the object region, and eliminate the smaller contour body in the object selection decision, until the remaining identification quantity is consistent with the set number.
    The experimental results demonstrate that the identification accuracy of yarn spindles and tube yarns in different scenarios exceeded 98.40%, realizing the accurate identification of spindles and tube yarn in complex background. In future work, machine learning methods can be introduced to solve the problem that individual parameter setting cannot adapt to special scenes such as strong light and reflection, and further improve the recognition accuracy of spindles and pipe yarn.
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    Effect of ammonium persulfate concentration on electromagnetic shielding properties of PAN/PANI nanofiber membranes
    SU Qi, GAO Yan, GAO Xiaoping, YANG Bochen
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (5): 1-8.  
    Abstract132)      PDF (7520KB)(77)       Save
    Polyaniline (PANI), as a suitable conductive polymer, has many inherent and unique properties, such as reversible redox properties, electrical conductivity, sensing properties and pH switching. However, due to its poor mechanical properties and thermal stability, it is difficult to be used in the field of electromagnetic shielding materials alone. Due to the limitation of melt extrusion technology, polyaniline fibers can only be formed from the spinning solution during the spinning process. However, the existing methods of preparing polyaniline nanofiber membranes from polyaniline inevitably weaken the mechanical properties of polyaniline.
    Based on electrospinning technology, the polyacrylonitrile (PAN) nanofiber membrane was used as raw material and immersed in aniline (An) acid solution, the polyaniline (PANI) coatings were prepared on the surface of PAN nanofibers by in-situ polymerization with the addition of APS (with a respective concentration of 0.1 mol/l, 0.2 mol/l, 0.3 mol/L, 0.4 mol/l and 0.5 mol/L), and the PAN/PANI composite nanofiber membrane was prepared. The microstructures, chemical structures, resistivity and electromagnetic shielding properties of the composite nanofiber membranes were investigated by means of scanning electron microscope, Fourier infrared spectroscopy, four-probe specific resistance tester and radiation protection tester. In addition, the effect of APS concentration on the electromagnetic shielding effectiveness of the composite nanofiber membrane was studied based on the regression analysis method. The results show that the nanofibers with random distribution on the surface of the composite nanofiber membrane have network structure and show dense structure. The nano-fibers on the surface of the PAN/PANI composite fiber membrane will break and become even and compact to agglomerate with the increase of oxidant concentration, which indicates that the oxidant concentration is too low. In other words, the low quality and low yield of PANI produced by An and APS make it impossible for PANI to effectively deposit on PAN, resulting in disconnection on the surface of nanofibers. The excessively high concentration of oxidant results in  agglomeration on the surface of nanofibers. Fourier infra-red spectra show that with the advent of in situ polymerization, the nitrile groups of PAN and PANI interact with each other to generate electrostatic interaction, while PAN and PANI do not react. With the increase of APS concentration, the resistivity of PAN nanofiber membrane decreases first and then increases, which indicates that when the concentration of APS is 0.3 mol/L, the quality of polyaniline is the best, and it can form a good conductive network on PAN, and can effectively absorb and shield electromagnetic waves. SEM photographs of the surface of the composite nanofiber membrane show that the size of APS is the smallest and the structure is the densest when the concentration of the oxidant is 0.3 mol/L, PAN is uniformly and compactly coated on PAN fibers, which improves the structural compactness of the fiber. The potential application of the PAN/PANI composite nanofiber membrane in functional wearable clothing is demonstrated by testing its anti-electromagnetic shielding performance.
    This study provides scientific data for the preparation of PAN/PANI composite fiber membranes by in-situ polymerization, and provides a new idea for the development of PAN/PANI composite fiber membranes with high conductivity and anti-electromagnetic radiation.
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    Preparation of MXene/nylon fabrics and their conductive properties
    QIN Ji’en, TANG Yuqin, QIN Xiuxian, YIN Yunjie
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (8): 1-6.  
    Abstract132)      PDF (4174KB)(112)       Save
    MXene is a two-dimensional nanomaterial akin to graphene, characterized by high electrical conductivity and a large specific surface area. It possesses a layered structure, simple fabrication process, excellent mechanical properties, and environmental stability. This material has garnered significant attention from researchers due to its outstanding electrical conductivity, hydrophilicity, and rich electrochemical active groups, showing potential applications in energy storage, sensing, catalysis, electromagnetic shielding, and biomedical fields. MXene layers obtained through etching with hydrofluoric acid (HF) and intercalation with organic macromolecules display functional groups such as -O-, -F, and -OH on their surfaces, rendering them hydrophilic. Furthermore, single-layer MXene can form stable colloidal dispersions in various aqueous and organic solvents. Leveraging these advantages, MXene/nylon fabrics can be fabricated by immersing fabrics in MXene dispersion and drying, and the functional groups on the MXene surface can combine with hydrogen bonds of the fabrics, thus firmly adhering to the nylon fabric surface. In this study, MAX phase ceramics were etched and intercalated with anhydrous ethanol as an intercalation agent, and HF generated in situ through the reaction of LiF and HCl as the etchant, to obtain a dispersion of single-layer MXene. MXene-conductive fabrics were prepared by the immersion method, investigating the influence of immersion-drying cycles on the conductivity of MXene fabrics and evaluating fabric durability and thermal properties. The conductive properties of the MXene fabrics obtained through one impregnation-drying process are limited, and it is difficult to meet the requirements of practical applications. In order to obtain an ideal conductive fabric, nylon fabrics were impregnated in MXene dispersion for several times, so that MXene can be combined on the surface of nylon fabrics as much as possible to form a stable conductive path, thus giving the fabrics excellent conductivity. After 1-4 impregnations, the electrical conductivity of the MXene fabrics was greatly improved, from 0.88 S/m to 55.91 S/m. After four impregnation-drying processes, the MXene/nylon fabrics were coated with layered MXene on the fiber surface. Due to the use of fluoride-based etching agents, MXene contains a large number of functional groups such as −OH, −F and −O−, which can form hydrogen bonds with nylon fabrics and bond closely. There are a large number of MXene layers on the surface of the nylon fabric and between the gaps, indicating that excessive MXene is filled in the gap of the nylon fabric or superimposed with the MXene layer on the fabric surface. The pattern of MXene layer on the surface of a single fiber can be observed at high magnification, which indicates that MXene and nylon fiber have a certain combination. With an increase in the number of immersion-drying cycles, the MXene content loaded onto the surface of the nylon fabrics gradually increased, resulting in enhanced fabric conductivity. After four times of impregnation-drying, the loading of MXene tended to be saturated, and the conductivity was 55.91 S/m. The washing fastness and rubbing fastness of the MXene/nylon fabrics are insufficient. After 25 times of washing, the conductivity of the fabrics is reduced to 1.47 S/m; after five times of friction, the conductivity of the fabric is 0.49 S/m.
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    Preparation of a titanium-phosphorus catalyst and its application in PET
    ZHU Haixin, WANG Yongjun, LÜ Wangyang, CHEN Wenxing
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (4): 29-37.  
    Abstract131)      PDF (2134KB)(111)       Save
    Titanium-based catalysts have the advantages of green and high efficiency, and have broad prospects in replacing antimony-based catalysts. To investigate the stability and catalytic properties of a self-made titanium-phosphorus catalyst during the polycondensation of polyethylene terephthalate (PET), the structure of the catalyst was tested with ultraviolet visible spectrophotometer (UV-Vis) and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR). The esterification products of purified terephthalic acid (PTA) and ethylene glycol (EG) were used for polycondensation to verify the hydrolysis resistance of the catalyst, and to make the catalyst more evenly dispersed and the reaction situation more suitable for actual production. It is also possible to achieve a longer period of polycondensation to prepare PET with high intrinsic viscosity. In addition, the molecular structure and properties of PET synthesized over titanium-phosphorus catalysts were characterized by ultra high performance polymer chromatography, multi angle laser light scattering instrument, differential refractometer (APC-MALLS-RID), differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), and thermogravimetric analyzer (TG). 
    We made a comparison between the titanium-phosphorus catalyst and the antimony-based catalyst, and added a catalyst before esterification. The addition amount of titanium-based catalyst was 5 ppm, and the addition amount of antimony-based catalyst (antimony trioxide) was 180 ppm. The prepolymer was placed in a multifunctional polycondensation reactor, and PET was synthesized through polycondensation at a temperature of 270 ℃ and a vacuum of 20–60 Pa. The results show that the titanium mass fraction of the self-made titanium-phosphorus catalyst was 17.10%. In the FT-IR spectrum, there are symmetric and antisymmetric stretching vibrations of the ester group (C=O) at positions 1,567 cm-1 and 1,438 cm-1, and the stretching vibration peak of the hydroxyl group (−OH) appears near 3,424 cm-1, indicating a strong interaction between Ti ions and ligands in the catalyst. The above indicates that Ti ions are well coordinated and the catalyst has been successfully prepared. After 103 min of esterification, the titanium-phosphorus catalyst catalyzes the polycondensation of the prepolymer for 180 min to obtain PET with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.907 dL/g and a weight average molecular weight (Mw) of 57,240 g/mol. Its catalytic activity is still higher than that of antimony-based catalysts, and exhibits good catalytic stability, which also indicates that the catalyst has good ability to prepare high viscosity PET. The polydispersity index of titanium-phosphorus PET is higher than that of antimony-based PET at the same polycondensation time due to the fact that titanium-phosphorus catalysts lead to more side reactions, fewer additions, and fewer active sites compared to antimony-based catalysts. After 120 minutes of reactive polycondensation of esterification products catalyzed by the titanium-phosphorus catalyst, the rate of broadening the molecular weight distribution of the products increases, while the degree of yellowing of PET increases. Therefore, the polycondensation time should be controlled within 120 minutes as much as possible in the process. 
    In terms of thermal properties, the melting peak temperature of titanium-phosphorus PET and antimony-based PET increases to the highest value at 90 min of polycondensation, with titanium-phosphorus PET being at 250.9℃ and antimony-based PET being at 249.8 ℃. And then, the melting peak temperature  gradually decreases. After 180 min of polycondensation, the temperature of 5% thermal weight loss for titanium-phosphorus PET and antimony-based PET is 413.3℃ and 412.3 ℃, respectively. The thermal stability of the titanium-phosphorus catalyst for synthesizing PET is better than that of antimony-based PET.
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    Research progress of fabric friction performance test system
    TIAN Yuan, DU Zhaoqun, ZHENG Dongming, ZOU Haochen
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (4): 125-140.  
    Abstract129)      PDF (14944KB)(61)       Save
    Friction performance is an important index to measure the friction behavior of fabric materials, which is of great significance for the design, production and application of textiles. With the development of textile science and technology, the research and improvement of fabric friction performance test system has attracted more and more attention, because friction determines the quality of fiber products processing links such as spinning, weaving, knitting and finishing. As one of the most basic mechanical properties of the fabric, the friction performance of the fabric surface affects the fabric style and wearability. Fabric style is the comprehensive effect of the inherent properties of the fabric itself on the human senses. The surface friction performance of the fabric affects the tactile style evaluation of the smoothness, slipperiness and waxiness, and clamminess of the fabric, and gives the fabric a rich surface handle. In order to better evaluate the performance of the fabric in the friction process, the friction performance of the fabric was quantitatively and qualitatively evaluated. The research and development of the fabric friction performance test system were reviewed. The research background, friction mechanism and research process of fabric friction were introduced. Starting from the material of the friction part in contact with the fabric, the fabric-metal friction, fabric-fabric friction and fabric-skin/skin-like fabric surface friction performance test devices were introduced.
    When friction occurs within or between fabrics and between fabrics and other substances, there will be low-frequency vibration, which will produce a sound spectrum and affect the fabric’s acoustic style. More and more people have realized that fabric sound is one of the key factors that determine the performance of fabrics. By studying the sound generated by fabric friction, the acoustic characteristics related to fabric structural factors and auditory sensation are determined to meet the growing consumer demand for fabrics’ auditory properties affecting clothing comfort. The test method of fabric friction sound was introduced, but there is no universal test instrument for fabric friction sound test device in the world.
    The research of the fabric friction performance test system aims to accurately and reliably evaluate the friction performance of fabric materials, provide scientific basis for textile design and application, and is of great significance in the field of textile science and technology. The surface friction performance of the fabric will also affect its wearability, that is, the comfort of the fabric, and the surface friction performance of the fabric will also have a certain impact on the post-processing and some special functions. Through in-depth understanding of the friction behavior and performance characteristics of fabrics, it can provide scientific basis for the design, production and application of fabric materials, and promote the development and innovation of the textile industry. However, further research and improvement of test methods are still needed to improve the accuracy and practicability of the test system to meet the needs of the developing textile industry.
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    Optimisation of the dyeing process of oak bowl seeds by response surface methodology (RSM)
    GE liwen, LI yonggu, YAO Mingyi, SU Miao, ZHAO Feng,
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (6): 9-17.  
    Abstract129)      PDF (7926KB)(56)       Save
    Before the advent of synthetic dyes, natural dyes had a long history of use and wre very widely used in the world. Black is one of the five normative colors in China. There has been a great demand for successive dynasties, so the black natural dyes are indispensable in China's dyeing history. Oak acorn is one of the most important sources of brown and black dye in China, which is the fruit of Quercus acutissima. Its main component is tannin. Many ancient books, such as Compendium of Materia Medica, Be Capable of General Affairs, and T'ien-kung k'ai-wu, recorded the dyeing process related to oak acorn. With the advent of synthetic dyes, the use of natural dyes fell silent for a long time. However, natural dyeing has regained popularity in recent years due to contemporary consumer interest in environmentally friendly printing and dyeing, as well as the discovery of the many benefits of using natural dyes derived from plants and animals.
    In order to explore a faster, more efficient and scientific dyeing process of oak acorn, Response Surface Methodology (RSM) was used to optimize the oak acorn dyeing process, with ferrous sulfate as the mordant, K/S value and Integ value as the response value. In this study, the factors influencing the dyeing process, such as dyeing temperature, dye concentration, mordanting temperature, mordant concentration, dyeing time, mordanting time, and pH, were investigated using the Plackett-Berman experiment to screen the significant influencing factors on oak acorn dyeing. Factors with P-values higher than 0.05 were considered as non-significant. Based on the P-value, the factor of dyeing temperature was found to be the most influential factor on the color depth of oak acorn dyeing, followed by dye concentration and mordanting temperature. After the significant factors were clarified, the response surface methodology (RSM) was carried out using the central composite design (CCD) method. Then, the response surface results were obtained and the response surface model was analyzed, based on which the interaction between oak acorn dyeing results and each dyeing factor was analyzed. Based on the above, K/S value and Integ value as the response value, the optimization model of the oak acorn dyeing process was established and the differences of the obtained response surface models were compared. It was found that the optimal oak acorn dyeing process - the dyeing temperature was 82.9 ℃, the dye concentration was 200% (owf), and the mordanting temperature was 53.5 ℃. The dyeing results showed that increasing the dye concentration and dyeing temperature can improve the K/S and Integ values of acorn-dyed silk, but the mordanting temperature should not exceed 60 ℃. The results of RSM experiments showed that the value of Integ is more suitable as the response value of natural dye oak acorn seed dyeing, which can more accurately reflect the change of color depth, and the validation results are in line with the predicted values, which indicates that the model is reasonable in design, stable and reliable. In addition, the color fastness results of silk showed that the dyed silk fabrics had good resistance to washing, rubbing and sunlight, which were all above grade 3.
    The experiments showed that RSM provides a simple and reliable method to optimize the oak acorn dyeing process. It also provides a reference for the subsequent deconstruction of the dyeing methods recorded in ancient documents. In addition, when the dye composition was analyzed in this study, it was found that its up-dyeing components were divided into ellagic acid. Therefore, the experimental design of this study may have important reference significance for the process optimization of tannin-based natural dyes containing ellagic acid.
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    Preparation of PCL/TCH patterned nanofiber membranes by emulsion electrospinning
    ZHANG Jun, YU Jinghong, LI Tingxiao, XIN Binjie
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (10): 20-30.  
    Abstract128)      PDF (12066KB)(19)       Save
    With the continuous innovation and vigorous development of advanced textile technology, new technologies such as emulsion electrostatic spinning, coaxial electrostatic spinning and patterning are gaining popularity. In the field of drug delivery, the nanofiber membrane made by the traditional electrostatic spinning technology as a drug carrier has certain limitations, such as the serious phenomenon of sudden drug release, uneven distribution of drugs in the fiber, and so on. In order to alleviate the phenomenon of sudden drug release, a nanofibrous membrane with a skin-core structure shall be prepared as a solution to effectively encapsulate the drug and maintain the biological activity of the drug molecules by taking advantage of the fact that the core layer of the fiber is not in contact with the outside world. Currently, emulsion electrostatic spinning and coaxial electrostatic spinning can prepare nanofibrous membrane with skin-core structure. Compared with coaxial electrospinning, emulsion electrostatic spinning is simple to operate, and the encapsulation of different drugs/active molecules can be achieved by water-in-oil or oil-in-water. Meanwhile, by patterning to mimic the multi-layered structure of the extracellular matrix (ECM), not only the surface area of the fibrous membrane can be increased to improve its drug release properties, but also the orientation of the fibers can be altered to improve the ability of cell adhesion, growth and differentiation.
    In this paper, patterned nanofibrous membranes with polycaprolactone (PCL) as the skin layer and tetracycline hydrochloride (TCH) as the core layer were prepared by emulsion electrostatic spinning. Firstly, a certain amount of PCL was dissolved in 1 mL of hexafluoroisopropanol (HFIP), and then 19.88 mg of Span80 was added as an emulsifier and stirred thoroughly, and afterwards, aqueous solutions of TCH at various concentrations were introduced into the stirring PCL oil-phase solution, creating a mixture with a 6% aqueous-oil phase volume ratio. In the final step, the PCL/TCH patterned nanofibrous membranes were fabricated by using emulsion electrostatic spinning technology, and employing a metal collector with a rhombus-shaped pattern. This was achieved by utilizing a metal lattice receiving device. The performance of the patterned nanofibrous membranes was also analyzed at different drug concentrations. The results showed that the droplet homogeneity of the spinning emulsion was relatively excellent at a drug mass fraction of 2% TCH, which led to a uniform and continuous fiber morphology and an increase in the cumulative drug release rate of 5.17%. Furthermore, the elongation at break of the patterned fibrous membranes improved by 20.31%, and there was a 13.45% increase in the cumulative drug release rate.
    In summary, the emulsion electrostatically spun PCL/TCH patterned nanofibrous membrane has good drug release properties. It alleviates the phenomenon of sudden drug release and prolongs the drug release cycle when compared to traditional drug delivery methods, avoiding the defect of frequent wound dressing change. Meanwhile, the patterned treatment provides a favourable environment for cell growth and promotes cell migration and adhesion. Therefore, the membrane has important application potential in drug delivery, wound healing and tissue engineering.
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    The luminescent properties of ACQ and AIE polymeric nanoparticles and their applications in inkjet printing
    LIANG Xiaoqin, LIANG Lihua, ZHU Jinshun, MA Mingyue
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (4): 84-92.  
    Abstract125)      PDF (8647KB)(124)       Save
    Different from the aggregation-caused quenching (ACQ) effect of traditional fluorescent dyes, aggregation-induced emission (AIE) dyes have become a research hotspot in recent years due to their unique luminescence behavior. The applications of AIE polymer nanoparticles (AIE-PNPs) have gradually expanded from the fields such as cell imaging and chemical sensing to textile printing and dyeing fields. The research on ACQ-PNPs has been ignored for a long period. It is undeniable that a large number of ACQ dyes such as Nile red (NR) and fluorescein possess advantages of stable photophysical chemical properties, high quantum yield and so on, although the fluorescence of dyes would be weaken even quenched when the concentration reaches a certain value. Additionally, not all fluorescent polymer nanoparticles (FPNPs) need to load dyes at a high concentration in many practical applications. Therefore, it is of great importance to conduct in-depth analysis of the discrepancies of the luminescence performance between ACQ-PNPs and AIE-PNPs, and to explore the practical application value of ACQ-PNPs and AIE-PNPs simultaneously.
    Enjoying the advantages of green, simple and efficient preparation process, miniemulsion polymerization technology can be used to prepare various FPNPs flexibly. To compare and analyze the luminescent properties of ACQ-PNPs and AIE-PNPs, and further explore their applications in inkjet printing, PMMA/NR NPs and PMMA/TPE NPs were prepared through encapsulation of ACQgen dyes, NR and AIEgen dyes, tetraphenylethylene (TPE) in water-borne miniemulsions, respectively. Influences of the amount of dyes on the final monomer conversion, particle size and luminescent properties of PMMA/NR and PMMA/TPE NPs were investigated and analyzed. The results show that the maximum content of NR and TPE dyes is 1.5wt% and both NR and TPE dyes have negligible influence on the final monomer conversion and particle size. Within the range of 0–1.5% of fluorescent dyes, the photoluminescence (PL) intensity of PMMA/NR NPs shows a trend of first increasing and then maintaining unchanged with the increase of NR content, without fluorescence weakening or quenching phenomenon, whereas the PL intensity of the PMMA/TPE NPs increases linearly with the increase of TPE content. When the content of florescent dyes is higher than 1.5%, the PL intensity of PMMA/NR NPs begins to decrease while that of PMMA/TPE NPs keeps increasing with the increase of the fluorescent dye’s content. Therefore, the critical concentration of dyes to avoid the weakening of fluorescence of PMMA/NR NPs is 1.5%. Furtherly, in order to improve the film-forming and inkjet printing performance of FPNPs, poly(MMA-co-20%BA)/NR and poly(MMA-co-20%BA)/TPE NP emulsions were prepared through miniemulsion polymerization at 1.5% content of fluorescent dyes. After diluting, adding surfactants and filtering, poly(MMA-co-20%BA)/NR and poly(MMA-co-20%BA)/TPE NP inks were prepared and used for inkjet printing on cotton fabrics. Under incandescent light, the printed fabrics with poly(MMA-co-20%BA)/NR and poly(MMA-co-20%BA)/TPE NP inks display the same appearance as the pristine fabric, but display a bright red and blue pattern under UV light, respectively. 
    This paper unveils the relationship of the amount of dyes and luminescent properties of ACQ-PNPs and AIE-PNPs, and further demonstrates both NR-based ACQ-PNPs and TPE-based AIE-PNPs emulsion prepared through miniemulsion polymerization have great potential in inkjet printing application with a suitable amount of fluorescent dyes. Research results can provide reference for the development of photochromic inkjet ink.
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    Preparation and antibacterial properties of silk fibroin-polyaniline composite nanofiber membrane
    ZHOU Jiabao, LIU Tao, QIU Qiaohua, ZHU Lingqi, WANG Yanmin, DIN Xinbo
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (5): 9-17.  
    Abstract124)      PDF (9219KB)(106)       Save
    This article uses electrospinning technology to prepare composite antibacterial (SF PANI) dressings using polyaniline (PANI) and regenerated silk fibroin (SF) as raw materials. Silk fibroin is a structural protein that is spun into fibers by thousands of arthropods and used in vitro. It is a natural high molecular fiber protein and is often used as an ideal dressing for repairing oral, maxillofacial, and systemic skin wounds. The modification of silk fibroin materials with different antibacterial properties has received extensive research and attention. Finished silk fibroin is obtained by degumming, dialysis, and freeze-drying of silkworm cocoons. Due to its easy availability of raw materials, diverse chemical structures, simple synthesis methods, unique doping mechanisms, low cost, and good biological stability, polyaniline functionalized derivatives are a new type of antibacterial agent with the potential to provide anti fouling surfaces as non leaching additives, and have broad application prospects in textile based flexible applications. Electrospinning is a simple, cost-effective, and controllable method for preparing nanofibers or microfibers from polymers in solution or melt state under high voltage electric fields. Through scanning electron microscopy (SEM), it can be seen that as the PANI content in the SF-PANI composite nanofiber membrane increases, the fiber diameter of the composite membrane gradually decreases from a microscopic perspective, and becomes more and more uneven in thickness. From a macro perspective, with the increase of PANI content, the overall color of the nanocomposite fiber membrane changes from pure white to dark green. The chemical composition and structure of PANI were characterized by instruments such as infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) and X-ray powder diffraction (XRD). It was found that PANI was successfully loaded on the SF fiber membrane, and the addition of PANI did not react with SF to produce a new chemical structure. By analyzing the swelling and porosity of the SF-PANI composite fiber membrane, it can be concluded that the overall performance of the composite membrane meets the basic requirements for antibacterial materials. From the mechanical properties of the composite membrane, it can be seen that as the PANI content gradually increases, the mechanical properties of the composite membrane first increase and then decrease. When the PANI content reaches 2%, the mechanical properties are the best. This article studied the antibacterial properties of composite membranes before and after halogenation. It can be seen that before halogenation treatment, the SF-PANI composite nanofiber membrane has good antibacterial performance against Staphylococcus aureus and Staphylococcus aureus. After halogenation, its antibacterial mechanism undergoes a transformation, Compared with the original antibacterial property of polyaniline, n-halogenation releases strong oxidizing poplar ions, which destroy the bacterial cell membrane and enter into the bacterial body, affecting the metabolic process and activity of cellular enzymes, eventually the bacteria die. The results indicate that the chemical composition of the SF-PANI composite nanofiber membrane prepared in this article does not change with the content and modification of polyaniline, and the SF-PANI composite nanofiber membrane has good pore swelling and mechanical properties. It has good application prospects in terms of antibacterial activity against Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus.
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    Preparation and performance of photoluminescence anti-counterfeiting fabric labeling based on (PEA)2PbBr4 single crystal
    HU Xiaotinga, XU Lei, LI Nan
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (3): 81-90.  
    Abstract124)      PDF (6983KB)(64)       Save
    The development and application of fabric security labels with identification function ensure the safety of textiles. Ultraviolet photoluminescent textiles refer to the fact that the fabric emits a specific color of light after being excited from a colorless state when it is irradiated by ultraviolet light, so as to achieve the purpose of anti-counterfeiting. Previous studies have shown that the (PEA)2PbBr4 single crystal with ultraviolet photoluminescence performance has excellent characteristics such as high color purity and high crystallinity, and can be prepared by simple process, mild conditions and mass production.
    To prepare efficient and lightweight fluorescent anti-counterfeiting fabric labels, phenethylammonium bromide was prepared by β-phenethylamine and hydrobromic acid, and it was dissolved with lead bromide at a molar ratio of 2:1 to N, N-dimethylformamide to configure a precursor solution. By adjusting the solvent ratio of o-dichlorobenzene to N, N-dimethylformamide, two-dimensional layered (PEA)2PbBr4 single crystals of different sizes and densities were grown by anti-solvent gas-assisted crystallization. The single crystal with the best distribution and luminescence performance was selected, and the single crystal solution under this condition was spin-coated and encapsulated in a 0.1 mm thick PVC film to prepare a single crystal/PVC composite film, and a fabric label with photoluminescence anti-counterfeiting function was obtained by hot rolling with the fabric. The crystallization properties, distribution, morphological structure and luminescence characteristics of single crystals and composite films and fabric labels were studied by fluorescence microscopy, laser particle size analyzer, XRD, SEM, ultraviolet-visible photometer and transient fluorescence spectrometer, and their application effects in textiles were discussed through washable wearable and wear-resistant tests.
    The results show that (PEA)2PbBr4 single crystals have a series of periodically repeated, uniformly spaced and well-defined strong diffraction peaks belonging to the two-dimensional layered perovskite structure, with excellent crystallinity and high preference orientation. And the morphology is regular, the edges are sharp, and the elements forming single crystals in the energy dispersive spectrum are evenly distributed; single crystals with a size of 5-10 μm are about 200 nm thick; the absorption and emission peaks are located at 394 nm and 412 nm, respectively. The larger the solvent ratio of o-dichlorobenzene to N, N-dimethylformamide, the smaller the single crystal size is; when the single crystal size is about 5 μm, its distribution state, crystallinity and luminescence performance are the best. The absorption peaks and emission peaks of the single crystal/PVC composite film are located at 391 nm and 414 nm, respectively, and the spectra shows that the single crystal inside the PVC film still has high quality and high color purity. The composite film used as the fabric security label uses ultra-small amounts of single crystals to emit a strong and uniform blue-violet light under the excitation of 365 nm ultraviolet light, realizing effective anti-counterfeiting function. It is tested and applied to fabric security labels to meet washable and wear-resistant standards.
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    Identification of pomegranate peel plant dye and its dyed cashmere fiber
    GUI Zuwen, HE Jianfeng, XU Haoning, CHEN Shenghang, YU Zhicheng, HOU Zhanchang, CHEN Chao
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (6): 18-27.  
    Abstract122)      PDF (9987KB)(73)       Save
    In recent years, the international community has paid close attention to global environmental issues, and the concept of sustainable development has gradually become the theme of social development. With the popularization of the concept of ecology, health and environmental protection, the application of natural dyes in textiles has been paid more and more attention. At present, plant dyes are one of the most important sources of natural dyes. A variety of plant dyes have been applied in textiles. Pomegranate peel, as a renewable resource, is one of the common plant dyes and has been widely used in the field of ecological textile dyeing. However, there is no corresponding identification method and standard for pomegranate peel plant dyes on the market. In order to improve the lack of plant dyeing standard system, it is necessary to establish the identification method and standard of pomegranate peel plant dyes.
    In order to improve the lack of plant dyeing standard system and establish the identification method and standard of pomegranate peel plant dyes, this paper studies the identification of pomegranate peel plant dyes and their dyed cashmere fibers. Firstly, the pomegranate peel plant dyes were tested by ultraviolet spectrophotometer to determine the markers for identifying pomegranate peel plant dyes. Then, the standard substance, pomegranate peel plant dye and its dyed cashmere fiber extract were detected by ultraviolet spectrophotometer and liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry in negative ion mode. By comparing the retention time and mass spectrum of the dye, the dyed cashmere fiber extract and the standard substance, and combining with the characteristic peaks contained in its ultraviolet-visible absorption spectrum, a perfect identification standard system was established to identify whether the dye and cashmere fiber were pure pomegranate peel plant dye and its dyed cashmere fiber.
    The experimental results show that punicalagin and ellagic acid can be used as markers to identify pomegranate peel plant dyes and their dyed cashmere fibers. The quasi-molecular ion peak m/z 300.9862 was detected in the mass spectrometry of pomegranate peel plant dyes, and the retention time was 1.02 min. The quasi-molecular ion peaks m/z 300.9896 and 300.9868 were detected in the mass spectrometry of direct dyeing and ferrous sulfate post-mordanting cashmere fiber extract, and the retention time was 1.02 min and 1.04 min, respectively. Both of them were similar to the peak time of ellagic acid standard at 1.02 min. In the range of ±2.5 % deviation allowed by the standard, combined with the fact that the UV-visible absorption spectrum only contained gallic acid at 277 nm and ellagic acid at 255 and 357 nm, it could be determined that the dye and its dyed cashmere fiber were pure pomegranate peel plant dyes.
    At present, although a variety of identification methods and standards for plant dyes have been established, there is still a lack of standard systems for some plant dyes in the market, and consumers cannot verify the conformity of products from the standards. Therefore, in order to enable consumers to purchase satisfactory plant dye products, identifying the corresponding plant dyes and their dyed fabrics is still the top priority in the development of plant dyes.
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    Development of fabric style and thermal-moisture comprehensive evaluation system
    TIAN Yuan, DU Zhaoqun, ZHENG Dongming, ZOU Haochen
    Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (4): 68-75.  
    Abstract121)      PDF (4446KB)(52)       Save
    People have five senses, namely vision, touch, hearing, smell and taste. In real life, when consumers choose clothing, the senses that express the fabric style are mainly visual, tactile and auditory senses, which is a process of multi-sensory integration. However, the evaluation of fabric style is mostly tactile style, that is, hand feeling. The thermal-moisture comfort of fabrics  depends on the permeability, hygroscopicity and thermal conductivity of the fabric. Fabric style and thermal-moisture evaluation are two important aspects of fabric quality evaluation. When selecting fabrics, in addition to considering the style, people should pay attention to the characteristics related to thermal-moisture comfort such as air permeability and moisture absorption of fabrics, so as to ensure that fabrics suitable for specific environments and needs are obtained. The fabric style and thermal-moisture comfort affect each other and restrict each other, which need to be considered comprehensively.
    To comprehensively evaluate the fabric style and thermal-moisture comfort, a comprehensive evaluation system of fabric style and thermal-moisture comfort was designed and developed based on the test principle of CHES-FY textile hand feeling evaluation instrument. Combining the multi-sensory style of the fabric and the combination of style and thermal-moisture comfort evaluation, a comprehensive evaluation system of fabric style and thermal-moisture was developed to evaluate the fabric. Five fabrics with obvious differences were selected and tested on standard instruments such as Datacolor 850 desktop spectrophotometer, YG461G automatic air permeability meter, YG606E textile thermal resistance tester, YG601H computer fabric moisture permeability meter, and KES-F7 IIB contact cold and warm feeling tester, and compared with the test results of fabric style and thermal-moisture comprehensive evaluation system. The results show that the fabric style and thermal-moisture comprehensive evaluation system can not only test the multi-sensory style of textiles, but also combine the three senses of vision, touch and hearing, provide a variety of combination information, and enhance the usability of the instrument. The structural characteristics of textiles can also be obtained, and a number of thermal and moisture indexes between different fabrics can be simply tested and compared. Compared with the basic thermal and moisture comfort test results, it is found that the difference between fabrics can be well reflected, which provides a new idea for the design of fabric evaluation instruments.
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