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Environmental impact calculation and assessment of bio-based chemical fiber textiles HU Xuerui, HE Tingting , PENG Yanyan , DING Xuemei Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (4): 20-28.   Abstract （168）      PDF （1152KB）（92）       Knowledge map    Save Chemical fibers, as the most used fiber raw material for textile and apparel products, are obtained from petroleum, and the overuse of petroleum resources and excessive emission of carbon dioxide (CO2) have brought about a series of resource and environmental problems. Therefore, in order to reduce the dependence on fossil resources and to address global environmental issues and climate change, bio-based chemical fibers have become one of the raw materials of choice for future development as an alternative to petroleum-based fibers. Bio-based chemical fiber textiles are somehow considered as green fiber products in academic and industrial circles; however, there is no systematic analysis of accounting and evaluation of their environmental attributes. Therefore, this paper systematically studied 2,382 related papers between January 2010 and June 2022 using statistical measures and content analysis, finding that the majority of existing studies focus on the development and performance of bio-based chemical fiber materials, with only eight papers using the LCA method to calculate the seven types of fibers: viscose, Lyocell, modal, bio-based PET, PTT, PLA, and synthetic spider silk. Among the eight papers, 87.5% of the research literature involves one or two stages of the product life cycle, of which the boundary from raw materials (planting) to fiber manufacturing account for the highest percentage (75%), followed by fiber production to waste disposal (37.5%), without involving the whole life cycle assessment. The accounting indicators focus on the global warming potential and acidification potential, and the bio-carbon storage accounting methods are still controversial, with different calculation methods yielding diametrically opposed results. The evaluation results indicate that bio-based chemical fibers are better than petroleum-based ones in terms of resource consumption and toxicity risk, but they may also have problems such as increased water pollution, increased land use, and impact on ecosystem quality. The environmental impact of bio-based chemical fibers in the production process is not significantly different from that of traditional petroleum-based chemical fibers and is mainly influenced by their different biological sources. In general, there are large research gaps in the environmental impact accounting and evaluation of bio-based chemical textiles, and the existing research findings are not enough to prove the green attributes of bio-based chemical textiles. As for such questions as whether bio-carbon should be accounted for in bio-based chemical fibers and how to define the duration of carbon sequestration, it is suggested to determine the bio-cabron accounting method for this category according to the application areas of bio-based products. It is suggested that future life cycle assessment of bio-based chemical textiles in a broader consumer context and practical applications should be conducted on a multidimensional level. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Identification of gardenia yellow plant dyes and their dyed silk fabrics GUI Zuwena, b, XU Haoninga, b, CHEN Haixiangb, YU Zhichenga, b, WANG Leia, b Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (6): 1-8.   Abstract （160）      PDF （1466KB）（116）       Knowledge map    Save In recent years, with the improvement of people's awareness of environmental protection, ecological textiles have been increasingly favored by people. Because of their non-toxic, biodegradable and other characteristics, plant dyes are widely used to study the dyeing and printing of textiles. Dyeing and printing with plant dyes can not only reduce the harm of dyes to the human body and make full use of natural renewable resources, but also greatly reduce the toxicity of printing and dyeing wastewater, playing a role in protecting the environment indirectly. At present, the development and utilization of plant dyes is under the active exploration and research, and the plant dye demonstration system engineering has been launched officially. In order to fill the deficiency of the world plant dye standard system, and lay a solid foundation for China to lead the development of the global plant dye industry, it is necessary to establish the identification methods and standards of plant dye series of products. In order to ensure the quality of plant dyeing products on the market, crack down on fake and shoddy products, and standardize market operation, so that consumers can rest assured and buy satisfactory plant dyeing products, it is very important to identify the corresponding vegetable dyes and dyeing textiles. In order to identify plant dyes and their dyed textiles, this paper takes gardenia yellow plant dyes and dyed silk fabrics as the research objects. Firstly, the gardenia yellow plant dyes were tested by ultraviolet spectrophotometer, and the markers of gardenia yellow plant dyes were indentified by combining with the descriptions in the literature. Then the markers, gardenia yellow plant dyes and their dyed silk fabric extract were detected by using liquid mass combination instrument under negative ion mode. By comparing the retention time and mass spectrometry of the dyes, dyed silk fabric extract and the dyed silk fabric, whether the dye and fabric were gardenia yellow plant dye and its dyed silk fabric was determined. The results showed that crocin Ⅰ and crocin acid could be used as markers to distinguish gardenia yellow plant dyes and their dyed silk fabrics. The molecular ion peaks m/z=975.3472 and m/z=327.1553 were detected in the mass spectrum of gardenia yellow plant dyes, and the retention times were 0.61 min and 1.38 min, respectively. The molecular ion peaks m/z=975.396 and m/z=327.1489 were detected in the mass spectrum of dyed silk fabric extract, and the retention times were 0.61 min and 1.38 min, respectively. The retention times were similar to the peak time of the crocin Ⅰ standard substance (0.61 min) and crocin acid standard substance (1.36 min), and the deviations were within the allowable deviation range of ±2.5%. Therefore, it was determined that the dye and the dyed silk fabric are respectively the gardenia yellow plant dye and its dyed silk fabric. At present, many textile colleges and universities have established relatively complete database of vegetable dyes and comprehensive vegetable dye color cards. However, there are certain deficiencies in the relevant standards of plant dyeing in every link in the current market, and consumers have insufficient awareness of them and cannot verify the conformity of products. Therefore, identifying the corresponding plant dyes and their dyed fabrics is a priority in the development of plant dyeing. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Application progress of conductive fibers in the application of new textiles XIE Jinlin, ZHANG Jing, GUO Yuxing, ZHAO Zhihui, QIU Hua, GU Peng, Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (6): 241-254.   Abstract （151）      PDF （7451KB）（160）       Knowledge map    Save With the development of new science and technology, textiles are not limited to the applications of warm keeping and beauty. Extra functions such as sensing and indicating are the new trend of the 21st century and the concept of e-textiles and smart textiles emerges as the times require. Thus, conductive fibers have attracted extraordinary attention with the upsurge of interest in flexible and wearable health monitoring systems, energy storage devices and noninvasive human–machine interfaces. In the meantime, conductive fibers also show excellent antistatic and shielding electromagnetic radiation properties, which made conductive fibers the excellent candidate for wearable textile devices and industrial textile products.  In the 1960s, people began to develop conductive fibers for antistatic purpose, and different types of conductive fibers were gradually developed. So far, conductive fibers can be divided into three main types. The first type is fibers made by inorganic materials such as metals and carbon, but these fibers exhibit poor wearability and conductive instability. The second type is polymer fibers such as PPy and PANI, which show a good conductivity up to 103 S/cm.  However, the preparation process of fiber formation is quite complex because of the high toxic monomer, high molecular weight and oxidation. The third type is composite conductive fibers made through coating or blending fabric technology. By blending or coating conductive polymers, metals or other conductive materials (such as MXene and Graphene), the composite fibers can always inherit the benefits from both conventional fibers and conductive materials. Currently, the major researches of conductive fibers are focused on textile technology and materials science. Although there are some review articles on the similar topics, it is necessary to summarize the recent development of conductive fibers in the application of next generation textile products. In this study, we present a review of the classification and preparation techniques of conductive fibers, as well as the application and development of antistatic, electromagnetic shielding and flexible sensors in detail. Future perspective is given in the end, which could shed light in the conductive fiber research and industry, especially in the area of smart wearable devices.  Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress of carbon fiber high-temperature resistant sizing agent WANG Nanaa, HUANG Liqiana, XU Jinyunb, ZHOU Cuna, Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (3): 237-250.   Abstract （140）      PDF （1467KB）（99）       Knowledge map    Save In the preparation process of carbon fiber, sizing is an indispensable process, its function is to form a uniform layer of organic polymer thin layer on the surface of carbon fiber, protect the surface activity of carbon fiber, enhance the wettability, reactivity, adhesion of carbon fiber surface, etc., which is conducive to improving the bonding performance between fiber and resin matrix, and enhancing the comprehensive performance of composite products. The sizing agent is generally composed of polymer resin as the main body, with various surfactants and additives. Mainly divided into three categories: solvent-based sizing agent, emulsion-type sizing agent and water-soluble sizing agent, water-soluble sizing agent has become the mainstream of carbon fiber and its composite material research and development because of its storage stability, good safety and low environmental pollution. In recent years, China's carbon fiber industry has shown explosive development, and the development and application of polymer-based carbon fiber composites in frontier fields such as aerospace, high-speed rail, new energy vehicles and fuel cells have developed rapidly, which has put forward higher requirements for the development of high-performance carbon fiber composites. The decomposition temperature of conventional sizing agent is about 200 °C, which is easy to thermally decompose under the conditions of high-temperature processing and molding process of high-temperature resistant and high-performance resin, resulting in local defects in the interface layer of the material and affecting the overall performance of the composite material. In order not to affect the high temperature resistance of the composite material, it is necessary to develop a high temperature resistant sizing agent that matches the high temperature resistance of the resin matrix. Based on the relevant literature in recent years, it can be seen that the high temperature resistance of the sizing agent is mainly achieved by the high temperature resistance of the main resin of the film former, physical and chemical modification such as blending and copolymerization, or the performance optimization of the hybrid and sizing agent formula of nanomaterials. In this paper, the research progress of high-temperature resistant carbon fiber sizing agents in recent years is reviewed, and the traditional thermosetting resins and rapidly developing high-temperature thermoplastic resins and their modified products are classified and summarized as various types of sizing agents with their modified products as the main components, focusing on their modification methods, especially water-based modification methods, and analyzing the application properties of various sizing agents, such as water solubility, high temperature resistance, surface properties and its influence on the mechanical properties of composite materials. From the perspective of industrial application, it is proposed that in addition to the research on hot spot properties and preparation methods, carbon fiber sizing should also pay attention to the research on the overall application of sizing agent, such as the stability, wettability, particle size distribution of sizing emulsion, the surface interface properties and overall mechanical properties of carbon fiber and composite materials after sizing. Finally, according to the development status of carbon fiber sizing agent and the performance requirements of advanced high temperature resistant resin-based carbon fiber composites, the development of high temperature resistant waterborne carbon fiber sizing agent is prospected. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Numerical analysis of the effects of interface bonding properties of backplates on the ballistic performance of SiC/UHMWPE composite armor  WANG Yongfeng, JIANG Peiqing, ZHANG Bo, CAI Jundong, ZHANG Huapeng, Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (5): 1-11.   Abstract （140）      PDF （5627KB）（95）       Knowledge map    Save Research on ceramic/fiber-reinforced composite armor has become an important direction of current research and application, and UHMWPE fiber-reinforced composites have been widely studied and applied in the field of armor protection due to their low density, high strength and excellent impact resistance. However, there are few systematic research reports on the effects of interface bonding between the plies of composite backplates on the on the ballistic protection performance of the composite armor. We take SiC/UHMWPE composite armor as the research object and use the numerical simulation analysis method to analyze and study the influence of the interface bonding of the composite backplate on the ballistic protection performance of the composite armor. Based on numerical FEM simulation analysis, Tiebreak contact was used to simulate the effects of interface bonding behavior of the UHMWPE composite backplate, and the ballistic penetration model of SiC/UHMWPE composite armor against 7.62 mm armor-piercing incendiary projectiles was established. The feasibility of the numerical simulation analysis method was proved by comparing a large number of test result data with the numerical simulation result data. On this basis, the above-mentioned numerical models were solved by using the explicit dynamic finite element analysis program LS-DYNA, the numerical simulation results were extracted by the post-processing software LS-PREPOST, and the effects of the interface bonding properties of the composite material backplate in SiC/UHMWPE composite armor on composite armor ballistic performance, ballistic limit velocity, energy absorption, and damage modes were analyzed and discussed. The research results show that with the improvement of bonding performance, the ballistic limit velocity of the SiC/UHMWPE composite armor decreases, the backface signature decreases and the time required for the projectile to stop is shortened when the composite armor is not penetrated by the projectile; the delamination is more pronounced, more composite materials are deformed and damaged in the tensile mode, and more kinetic energy of the projectile is absorbed. In the SiC/UHMWPE composite armor, the relationship between the interface bonding behavior of the composite backplate and the ballistic performance of the composite armor further reveals the importance of the interface bonding of the composite backplate for the composite armor. The results of this paper can provide  reference for the design, material selection and numerical simulation of composite armor with fiber-reinforced composites as the backplate. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Impact of virtual idol anthropomorphism on virtual apparel purchase intention LUO Linxiaoa, CHEN Lihong b Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (4): 268-285.   Abstract （130）      PDF （1451KB）（105）       Knowledge map    Save In recent years, virtual apparel and virtual idols are the hot topics that have emerged. The emergence of virtual apparel has broken the limitations of the traditional apparel industry, and designers can make consumers "wear" exclusive virtual apparel through modeling technology, creating a new opportunity for the future development of the apparel sector. At present, a mature business model has not yet been formed for the domestic virtual apparel industry, while a more mature business model has been formed for virtual idol industry and has strong relevance to virtual apparel. Many virtual apparel designers or studios began to try to use virtual idol endorsement in order to break through. However, there are some problems such as unsatisfactory endorsement effects for virtual idols in the process of apparel brand endorsement, which is mainly due to the inability to meet the audience's demand for their anthropomorphism in the early stage of exploration. Furthermore, there is little research on virtual idol endorsement of virtual apparel and the influence of anthropomorphism on the purchase intention of virtual apparel in the process of virtual idol endorsement of virtual apparel in the existing literature, which is necessary for for virtual idol companies and virtual apparel companies. First of all, the concepts of virtual idol anthropomorphism and virtual apparel were redefined, two variables of virtual idol anthropomorphism and parasocial interaction were introduced to explore the impact of the four dimensions of virtual idol anthropomorphism, namely appearance, moral virtue, cognitive experience and conscious emotionality on the purchase intention of virtual apparel, and the intermediary role of parasocial interaction in it is verified, which is groundbreaking in the field of virtual apparel endorsed by virtual idols. Secondly, this paper constructs an extended model of the Technology Acceptance Model, which expands the scope of the applied research of the Technology Acceptance Model. Finally, this paper conducts questionnaire survey based on the extended model, collects relevant data, analyzes its reliability and validity and uses the structural equation model for empirical analysis, which can provide theoretical support and scientific basis for virtual idol companies and virtual apparel companies. The results show that virtual idol anthropomorphism has a significant positive effect on the purchase intention of virtual apparel, in which the moral virtue and cognitive experience of virtual idol have a more significant impact on the purchase intention of virtual apparel than appearance and conscious emotionality; parasocial interaction, perceived ease of use, perceived usefulness and brand attitude have a chain intermediary role in the whole process.  According to the experimental results, when operating virtual idol IP, the companies should reasonably design communication events and plot short videos or live content, in order to focus on improving the anthropomorphic cognition of virtual idols in two dimensions: moral virtue and cognitive experience. It is sufficient to reach the market standardization level for the degree of appearance anthropomorphism. Meanwhile, the means to increase the degree of conscious emotionality anthropomorphism is costly but less effective. In addition, the companies can also play a role in increasing the purchase intention of virtual apparel by improving parasocial interaction, perceived ease of use and perceived usefulness. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Hot-pressing process and structure of laminated composite fabrics with EVA hot-melt adhesive films HU Manyu, JIN Xiaoke, TIAN Wei, HUANG Kunzhen, SHAO Lingda, ZHU Chengyan, Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (4): 173-182.   Abstract （123）      PDF （10655KB）（22）       Knowledge map    Save As an environmentally friendly decorative material, wall cloth is well in line with human's aesthetic and environmental protection requirements for its advantages of seamlessness, heat preservation and sound absorption. However, at present, the research and development scope of the foreign wall cloth industry is wide, while the research and development of wall cloth in China started late, with most related studies staying at the decorative level, and few on the functions. Moreover, the domestic research and development of wall cloth focus on single-layer wall cloth, which can not fully meet the requirements of multi-functional wall cloth. Composite wall cloth, usually made of woven fabric and non-woven fabric by hot pressing with binder, is a laminated composite fabric. It can not only maintain the original functional characteristics of each layer of the fabric, but also can be designed to increase other functions, showing the superposition of functions as a whole. The development of multi-functional textile fibers and the research and development of wall cloth preparation technology have promoted the growth of the composite wall cloth market. To address the lack of functional wall cloth and undiversified types in the domestic market, we mainly focus on the hot-pressing process of preparing composite fabrics for wall cloth in this paper. We  selected the ethylene vinyl acetate (EVA) hot-melt adhesive film with a low melting point, wide bonding range and aging resistance as the adhesive. Firstly, we carried out the thermal analysis. On this basis, with the temperature, pressure and time of the hot-pressing process as the main influencing factors of the test, we designed the L25(53) orthogonal test to study the effect of the hot-pressing process on the bonding structure and properties of  composite fabrics with EVA hot-melt adhesive films. In this paper, we analyzed the cross-section bonding structure of the composite fabric by thickness and cross-section electron microscopy, including the morphological changes of the hot-melt adhesive film, the degree of penetration, the binding effect with yarns and fibers, etc. We also analyzed the reasons for the influence of the hot-pressing process on the properties of composite fabrics from the microstructure. It is found that for composite fabrics with EVA hot-melt adhesive films, pressure has the greatest influence on the thickness and air permeability, and temperature has the greatest influence on the peel strength. At the same time, pressure has a significant effect on the thickness, a highly significant effect on the air permeability, and temperature has a significant effect on the peel strength. With the increase of hot-pressing temperature, pressure and time, the thickness shows a downward trend. With the increase of temperature and time, the permeability and peeling strength increase first and then decrease. With the increase of pressure, the permeability and peeling strength show a downward trend. The optimum parameters for the hot-pressing process are 100 °C, 0.5MPa and 90 s. The hot-melt adhesive of the composite fabric prepared under this condition is closely combined with the yarn and fiber of the two layers of the fabric. The adhesive layer will form gaps and micro-pores. The thickness is 0.65 mm, the air permeability can reach 156.72 mm/s, and the peel strength can reach 32.55 N. The relationship between the hot-pressing process conditions and the bonding structure and properties of composite fabrics with EVA hot-melt adhesive films  can lay a research foundation for the preparation of composite fabrics. Through the selection and design of raw materials, new functional wall cloth products with such functions as anti-fouling property, moisture permeability and flame resistance are prepared to meet human's high-quality requirements for indoor environmental conditions. The research results can provide a process reference for the preparation of composite fabrics by EVA hot-melt adhesive films, and provide a basis for the preparation of functional composite wall fabrics. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Structure optimization of traditional SK type and new static mixers CHEN Xifeng, CHEN Ye Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (3): 1-11.   Abstract （121）      PDF （3571KB）（111）       Knowledge map    Save In order to improve the synthetic quality of polyacrylonitrile fibers, starting from improving the mixing uniformity of the three-strand material of synthetic polyacrylonitrile, the numerical calculation method of multiphase flow field is carried out by using CFD technology, the influence of component structure parameters and component quantity of SK type static mixer on the uniformity of the three-strand material premix in the mixer tube is discussed, and the corresponding pressure drop changes are analyzed. The results show that when the width of the mixing element is D=110 mm, the aspect ratio is L/D=1, and the component torsional angle is α=270°, the mixing efficiency is the highest. And the new static mixer is numerically simulated based on the optimized mixing element parameters, with the purpose of achieving ideal mixing uniformity, and the total length of the new mixer when meeting the requirements is about 1/2 of the length of the traditional SK static mixer. The mixing efficiency of the new static mixer is greatly improved compared to that of the traditional SK static mixer, but the pressure drop loss is also large. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation of polyvinyl alcohol/sodium alginate drug-loaded composite hydrogel and its antibacterial properties Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (3): 145-157.   Abstract （116）      PDF （7360KB）（62）       Knowledge map    Save In recent years, people have paid increasing attention to wound healing, and medical dressings have developed rapidly. Wound dressings can act as a skin protective barrier to prevent wound infection, quickly absorb wound exudate, and guide human tissue regeneration. The ideal dressing material should not only absorb the excess exudation of the wound, but also keep the wound in a proper moist state, effectively avoid the dry necrosis of the wound tissue and prevent secondary infection. Hydrogels, which are a hydrophilic cross-linked polymer network, can maintain a large amount of water by expansion, and perfectly mimic the natural structure of the tissue microenvironment. Due to its porous structure, biodegradability, growth factor incorporation ability and controlled release ability, it is a promising dressing material. In particular, hydrogels can be loaded with antimicrobial materials such as antibiotics, nanoparticles, and natural products to avoid contact with external bacteria and to effectively prevent cross-infection and improve the healing process. From the perspective of biosafety and anti-infection, we use polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) and sodium alginate (SA) as raw materials to prepare a PVA/SA composite hydrogel with semi-interpenetrating network structure (SIPN) by a green and simple method, namely cyclic freezing-thawing method, to improve the biological characteristics of PVA and the brittleness of SA, and use it as a carrier to better carry Vancomycin hydrochloride (VAN), aiming to achieve a new composite material with excellent biocompatibility, good mechanical properties and antibacterial effect. The morphology and structure were characterized by scanning electron microscope (SEM), infrared spectrometer (FT-IR) and X-ray powder diffractometer (XRD). The swelling degrees, porosities and mechanical properties of PVA/SA@VAN drug-loaded composite hydrogels were analyzed, and their antibacterial properties were explored. The results showed that the PVA/SA@VAN drug-loaded composite hydrogels all showed a three-dimensional porous structure, with uniform pore distribution and a porosity of more than 80%. They swelled rapidly in phosphate buffer solution without dissolution, and the swelling degree could reach 1338%. They had strong water absorption and swelling ability and good mechanical properties. Antibacterial experiments showed that the PVA/SA@VAN drug-loaded composite hydrogel had significant antibacterial effect on Staphylococcus aureus. The results of this study provide a basis for the application of drug-loaded composite hydrogels in wound dressings. At present, the demand for antibacterial wound dressings that control infection and prevent microbial invasion by releasing fungicides is gradually increasing. The antibacterial composite hydrogel wound dressing prepared in this paper can be used as a short-term dressing candidate for acute wounds. The research results can provide reference for the research of hydrogel wound dressings. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Life cycle assessment system and database analysis of textile products WU Chongzhena, LI Qizhenga, b, LIU Canc, WANG Lailic Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (4): 29-36.   Abstract （115）      PDF （1138KB）（55）       Knowledge map    Save Life cycle assessment (LCA) is a comprehensive method to identify and evaluate the environmental impact of a product or a process throughout the life cycle, which can effectively identify the key stages of the environmental impact of a product's life cycle and thus provide important and accurate guidance for the development of energy conservation and emission reduction strategies. Due to the long and complex supply chain and manufacturing processes, the textile industry is inevitably one of the most pollutant industries around the world. Therefore, conducting life cycle assessment and selecting the appropriate LCA systems and databases for textile products and production processes are of vital significance. China is one of the largest producers and consumers of textile products around the world. LCA of textile products is an effective tool to quantify the environmental impacts generated by the production and consumption of textile products, which further provides valid references for green and low-carbon textile product design, production and consumption. Data collection and result evaluation are two key aspects of product LCA. Using LCA system and its built-in database of impact factors for energy, materials and other input lists can greatly improve the efficiency and accuracy of LCA for products. In order to conduct a systematic and comprehensive analysis of LCA systems and databases for textile products, we firstly searched literature pertaining to product LCA research on China National Knowledge Infrastructure (CNKI) and Web of Science and summarized the product LCA systems and databases applied in the literature. Considering that LCA of textile products is receiving increasing attention and research, we then searched the literature on LCA research of textile products and analyzed the assessment systems and databases applied in literature. According to the fiber category, the literature found was classified and the impact models and LCA databases used were listed and compared. In addition, we systematically analyzed and compared the accounting interfaces of the current LCA systems of textile products, including the tree interface, flowchart interface and Sankey diagram interface and so on. The built-in Ecoinvent database, Gabi database, and IDEMAT database of Simapro and Gabi systems contain most of the material and energy inventory data required for conducting LCA of textile products. Thus, Simapro and Gabi systems are most widely used in LCA studies of textile products among the current LCA systems. Database and the number of impact assessment models, characterization factors, normalization factors as well as weighting factors applied in the research literature of LCA of textile products were compared as well. And we took the characterization factor of marine ecotoxicity and normalization factors of EDIP model for example. On the whole, the number of built-in databases and impact assessment models in the LCA system directly determines the comprehensiveness and accuracy of LCA results. LCA systems often have the same sorts of characterization factors with different values between built-in databases. Taking the Simapro and Gabi systems which are widely used in LCA studies of textile products as examples, we compared the marine ecotoxicity characterization factors of the ReCiFe2016 database and normalization factors of EDIP model within the two evaluation systems. In addition, we analyzed the reasons and influencing factors for the differences in weighting factors in different LCA systems. The inconsistency of characterization factors, normalization factors, and weighting factors among major LCA systems and databases, as well as the different numbers of databases and impact assessment models lead to differences in results when LCA studies are conducted for the same textile product using different LCA systems and databases. The results show that in terms of cases of LCA of textile products, Simapro system and Gabi system are the systems used most commonly, accounting for 53.77% in total. In terms of impact evaluation databases used in cases of LCA of textiles, Ecoinvent database and Gabi database are the databases used most commonly in the LCA of textile products, accounting for 79.24% in total. Moreover, the built-in databases of Simapro and Gabi systems have the same type of characterization factors, normalization factors, and weighting factors with different values, resulting in discrepancy between the life cycle assessment results for the same textile products. The reasons for the differences include the facts that the Simapro and Gabi systems are developed by separate institutions, and that the production scale and technology levels in the developers' regions, and the conversion factors are different. The differences between LCA systems and databases of pollutant emission channels and production scale, technology level, economic status, and environmental policies in the region are the main reasons for the different results when different LCA systems for LCA studies of textile products are used. By comprehensively considering the above factors, constructing an LCA system and database of textile products with regional features and a unified benchmark can improve the integrity and accuracy of the evaluation results. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Objective evaluation of pilling of woven fabrics based on deep learning WU Jun, XU Tian, YU Kun Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (1): 1-8.   Abstract （104）      PDF （5020KB）（124）       Knowledge map    Save At present, China's textile production is huge, and textile import and export trade affects the domestic economic development.Now, the most prominent problem of textiles is quality, of which fabric pilling condition is an extremely important part. The domestic assessment of pilling grade is mainly carried out by professional scientific personnel in some specific scenarios with the standard pilling samples for comparison, for which there are many limitations. First of all, the rating results may be affected by the subjective influence of the testers. Secondly, this method is time-consuming and costly, so there is a need for an objective rating system to grade the fabric pilling. In recent years, foreign scholars have began to use the computer to process some traditional images by extracting such parameters as the size, number, density, volume and other parameters of the pilling through traditional image processing methods, and such parameters can be used for fabric pilling rating. With the development of deep learning, high accuracy, convenience and other advantages are becoming increasingly prominent and they are widely used by domestic researchers. In the image field, feature extraction by convolutional neural network is effective and avoids the problem of subjective feature extraction. Therefore, we proposed a new Wide-SqueezeNet network for objective rating of fabric pilling based on deep learning. In this paper, two kinds of woven fabrics with different compositions and contents were used as samples, a ball-box pilling instrument was used to obtain different grades of pilling samples, and the fabrics were put under the light source for image acquisition by using a grayscale camera. A total of 4,376 samples of both kinds were collected. As for the network model, SqueezeNet with fewer parameters and fast training was used as the main body of the network which was innovatively designed. The network model has ten layers, but the number of parameters is small, so the expression ability of complex problems is weak. The new Wide-Fire module was formed by adding a short connection to the original Fire module and using two 3×3 small convolutions to obtain the information of the pilling feature map at different scales and fusing the features with the output of the original Fire module, while using a depth-separable convolution to replace the ordinary convolution in the network to reduce the computation to increase the training speed. A Wide-SqueezeNet network model with deep separable convolution was finally designed. After the training, the accuracy of Wide-SqueezeNet with improved Fire module is 2% higher than that of the base network, and the accuracy of Wide-SqueezeNet with deep separable convolution is increased by 0.5% and the speed is improved. The final network model is significantly more accurate than some classical classification network models. Two 3×3 convolutional kernels and one 5×5 convolutional kernel are used for training, and the results show that the accuracy of the network with two 3×3 convolutional kernels is higher, so the two 3×3 convolutions are used for feature extraction. The experimental results show that the improvements in this paper improve the accuracy of the network classification, and the model size and computational effort are basically the same compared to the original network. Finally, the reliability of the network is further verified by the feature map and heat map of the network output, which proves that Wide-SqueezeNet is reliable in the objective rating method of woven fabric pilling. The comprehensive evaluation shows that the network model proposed in this paper can meet the requirements of pilling rating in the fabric industry. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Application and research progress of bionic design in smart textiles ZHANG Rui, ZHENG Yingyinga, DONG Zhengmeia, ZHANG Ting, SHEN Liming, WANG Jian, ZOU Zhuanyong Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (6): 226-240.   Abstract （102）      PDF （11106KB）（108）       Knowledge map    Save The textile industry in China, where both the economy and technology are rising quickly, has a new market thanks to bionic technology. The fusion of fabric and bionic technology to create electronic fabrics with various functions, such as thermal insulation, structural color generation, and superhydrophobicity, is anticipated to play a significant role in the fields of health detection, intelligent medical care, motion monitoring, and human-computer interaction in a variety of smart wearable devices. Bionic design of fiber materials is a key strategy for the textile industry to produce textiles with superior qualities. To acquire the excellent functions brought about by these unique structures for the prepared smart textiles, smart bionic textiles are primarily designed to respond to external environmental stimuli inspired by the structure and characteristics of live organisms in nature. Bionic technology has advanced significantly as a result of the ongoing advancements in intelligent technology and biological science, and it is increasingly being used in the textile sector. The most typical representatives of insulation textiles based on bionic design are polar bears and penguins, whose internal structure is showing a hollow porous structure, and this porous structure enhances their thermal insulation performance. The hollow structure of fibers traps a large amount of air to increase thermal resistance or mimics the internal structure of polar bear hair or penguin feathers to develop heterogeneous fiber fabrics with special cross-sectional shapes. Next there are down of animals such as geese and ducks, whose internal structure shows a branching structure and whose thermal insulation properties are mainly attributed to their nano-scale and the trapped air in the branching structure. An environmentally friendly structured color-generating technology has been developed as a result of China's pressing need for the development of green textiles and eco-textiles. The idea that the shimmering butterfly's wings in the Amazon River Basin produce structural color has a significant impact on how color is generated. The most typical superhydrophobic textile based on bionic design is a plant with self-cleaning function, which is represented by lotus leaf and water strider leg. There is a nanostructure on the micron structure mastoid on the surface of lotus leaf. This combination of micron structure and nanostructure is the fundamental reason for the self-cleaning function on the surface of lotus leaf. A number of researchers have produced excellent superhydrophobic fabrics mimicking the structure of lotus leaves and water strider legs. The fibers, fabrics, and textile sensors created through the fusion of bionic design and smart sensing textile materials, inspired by the structure of living organisms like spider hair, pale ears, and human skin, have great potential for advancement in the fields of protection, sports, medicine, and military. The use of bionic techniques to create textiles with a variety of purposes has grown to be a crucial component of smart textile design. These techniques are inspired by the shapes and structures of living organisms found in nature. The use of bionic smart textiles is currently expanding into the medical, aeronautical, and military industries in addition to serving people's clothing requirements. The structure and application areas of multifunctional bionic smart textiles need to be further explored, notwithstanding the impressive achievements that have been obtained by smart textiles created by using bionic technology. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Effects of activating oil and activating conditions on the interfacial adhesion of polyester industrial yarn /rubber SHI Qiang, REN Chunying, SHI Jiaoxue, ZHENG Xiong, ZHANG Xuzhen Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (3): 163-171.   Abstract （100）      PDF （2808KB）（51）       Knowledge map    Save In recent years, the demand for tires in China is increasing rapidly, in which radial tires are the main product. HMLS polyester industrial yarns have obvious advantages as the frame material of tire due to low cost, small elongation deformation, good dimensional stability, high modulus and low thermal shrinkage. However, the modulus and polarity of the HMLS polyester industrial yarn and rubber have great difference, leading to low interface adhesion, and a peeling failure. Therefore, it becomes an important research direction to enhance the bonding performance of the interface between the polyester industrial yarn and rubber.     In this paper, based on the existing conventional methods of preparing polyester cords by dipping polyester industrial yarns, the one-step dipping method is improved to make its performance close to that of the product by two-step dipping. In the two-step dipping method, resorcinol formaldehyde latex (RFL) is used to pretreat polyester industrial yarns and then compounded with rubber to achieve a high interface adhesion. While in the one-dip method, the yarn can be oiled with an activated oil agent during spinning, and RFL and rubber matrix compounding can be carried out without pre-treatment of polyester industrial yarns. Compared with the two-dip method, the one-dip method has the advantages of short process, energy saving and consumption reduction, but the bonding strength between the polyester industrial yarn and rubber is lower. In this paper, the blocked isocyanate is added to the activated oil agent and then oil is applied during spinning. The polyester industrial yarn is dipped in the one-dip method, and then compounded with rubber. During the subsequent vulcanization of rubber, the blocked isocyanate component is simultaneously activated by thermal effect to realize the interface reinforcement between the fiber and rubber. The effect of emulsion mass fraction of activating oil, amount of blocked isocyanate and activation technology on the interfacial adhesion between the polyester industrial yarn and rubber were systematically studied. The results show that, the adhesion fastness of RFL on the surface of the polyester industrial yarn increases at first and then decreases with the increase of emulsion mass fraction of activating oil. The maximum H-pull force of the polyester industrial yarn/rubber reaches its maximum value at an emulsion mass fraction of activating oil of 5%. With the increase of the blocked isocyanate content, the adhesion fastness of RFL on the surface of the polyester industrial yarn, the H-pull force and peeling strength of polyester industrial yarn/rubber increase at first and then decrease, and the maximum values are recorded at a blocked isocyanate content of 2%. With the increase of activation temperature or activation time, the H-pull force of polyester industrial yarn/rubber firstly increases and then decreases, and reaches the peak value at 140 ℃ or 2 h. The H-pull force of polyester industrial yarn/rubber treated with activating oil (containing isocyanate) is 21.1N, almost twice of the force for the similar samples obtained via the general one-dip method, and significantly reducing the difference with that of the two-dip treated samples (H-pull force 27 N). Compared with the similar commercial products, the H-pull force of polyester industrial yarn/rubber and the dimensional stability of polyester cord treated with activating oil containing isocyanates are significantly improved. Based on the one-dip method, the polyester industrial yarn is modified with activating oil (containing isocyanate) and contributes the adhesion between the polyester industrial yarn and rubber without affecting its dimensional stability. This study provides a new idea for the modification of polyester industrial yarns for cords, and also provides a reference for the modification of other tire frame materials. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Continuous salt-free pad dyeing process to improve the fibrillation of Lyocell fibers TANG Qi, HE Yi, ZHENG Jinhuan, WANG Chenglong, WANG Zhicheng, CHAI Liqin Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (6): 9-16.   Abstract （95）      PDF （2793KB）（100）       Knowledge map    Save Lyocell fibers are regenerated cellulose fibers. In addition to the advantages of hygroscopic property, good luster and comfortable wearing, Lyocell fibers also have better wet and dry strength than other regenerated cellulose fibers. However, Lyocell fibers are prone to fibrination, which limits their application in textile applications. The reactive dye is one of the most commonly used dyes for cellulose fiber dyeing, with advantages of simple application, cheap price and bright color, but in the process of immersion dyeing, to promote reactive dye dyeing, a large number of inorganic salts are often added in the dyeing solution. Therefore, there are high energy consumption, complex and variable dyeing wastewater composition, deep color, alkaline and expensive treatment costs and many other drawbacks. In this paper, the continuous salt-free rolling dyeing process of Lyocell fiber fabrics with reactive dyes was systematically studied, which not only improved the dyeing property and reduced the emission of inorganic salts, but also improved the fibrillation degree of Lyocell fibers and effectively improved the quality of Tencel fabrics. The effects of dyeing and fixing process and formula (baking temperature, baking time, dipping times, dosage of alkali and urea) on dyeing properties (K/S value and fixing rate) of fabrics were discussed. The dyeing properties and fibrination degree of fabrics were compared with those of traditional dyeing process. The results show that the optimized rolling, baking and dyeing formula and process of the Lyocell fabric require alkali of 25 g/L, urea of 60 g/L, and a baking time of 2 min at 160℃ after twice dipping and twice padding. The three dyes of Br Red CA, Br Yellow CA and Blue CA have good dyeing effect, and the color fixing rates are 76.98%, 67.48%, 77.15%, and K/S values are 21.87, 10.87, 15.85, respectively. Compared with the traditional immersion dyeing process, the continuous salt-free rolling dyeing can obtain higher dyeing depth , and the K/S values of the three dyes are increased by 28.10%, 5.23% and 6.20%, respectively. The maximum absorption wavelength of the same dye is the same under rolling, baking and immersion dyeing, indicating that pad dyeing does not change the color light of the fabric. The L* value of the pad dyeing fabric is generally lower than that of the immersion dyeing fabric, indicating that the color of the Lyocell fabric dyed by the former will be darker under the condition of the same amount of dyes. The dry rubbing fastness of the three dyes is higher than that of the wet rubbing fastness, reaching grade 5, while the wet rubbing fastness is one or two grades lower. Both of them have good soap color fastness, generally at grade 4-5 or above. The surface fibril of Lyocell fibers after continuous salt-free rolling dyeing is less than that of immersion dyed fabrics, and the fibrillarization degree of the fabric is weaker and the surface is smoother. Continuous salt-free rolling dyeing of Lyocell fibers can obtain good dyeing effect, reduce energy consumption and pollutant emission in the dyeing process, which will be conducive to clean dyeing of cellulose textiles, and promote the sustainable development of the whole dyeing process. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Review of commonly used antibacterial finishing agents for textiles LU Jiayu, CAI Guoqiang, GAO Zongchun, SONG Jiangxiao, ZHANG Yan, QI dongming, Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (3): 251-262.   Abstract （94）      PDF （1198KB）（96）       Knowledge map    Save Textiles are widely used in many fields, such as clothing, domestic decoration and industrial use. They not only provide a place for the grouth and reproduction of various microorganisms, but also become an important transmission route of some infectious diseases due to their reusable characteristics. In recent years, considering the complex and severe global environmental epidemic and the frequent occurrence of various infectious diseases, the use of antibacterial agents on textiles is an important way to improve their antibacterial and bacteriological properties and cut off or slow down the spread of pathogens. Therefore, the functional characteristics and development trend of various antibacterial agents commonly used in textiles have attracted much attention. This paper firstly introduces the inorganic, organic and natural antibacterial agents which are widely used in textiles. And the types, characteristics, mechanism of action and antibacterial effect of these compounds are described respectively. Inorganic antibacterial agents are the most widely used antibacterial agents. Nano silver and nano gold as typical antibacterial agents of metal nanoparticles, have high surface energy. They generally destroy the cell structure of bacteria or affect their metabolism by acting with the cell membrane of bacteria. Although they have good antibacterial effects, they are easy to agglomerate and leach from the textile. The antibacterial effect of metal oxides, such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and magnesium oxide, is next only to that of metal nanoparticles. There are three main antibacterial mechanisms, such as active oxygen generation through photocatalysis, metal ion action and cell mechanical damage. Carbon nanomaterials have also been studied in the field of antibacterial. It is believed that graphene, carbon nanotubes and graphene oxide can cause physical damage to bacterial cell membrane or cell distortion through contact and interaction with bacteria by their physical structure and excellent mechanical strength, and thus producing antibacterial effects. Organic antibacterial agent is the earliest applied antibacterial agent . They are much easier to prepare and possess a broad spectrum of antibacterial properties, mainly including quaternary ammonium salts, halide amines, triclosan and so on. They kill the bacteria mainly through the chemical bond force, such as electrostatic attraction, van der Waals force, hydrogen bond and so on. Halide amines are considered to be the most effective organic antibacterial agents, which can be cyclically sterilized by artificial chlorination. Although organic antimicrobials have broad-spectrum antibacterial properties, they may be toxic to the environment and human cells. Natural antibacterial agents such as curcumin, chitosan, plant polysaccharides,possess biocompatibility and biodegradability. And they have been paid more and more attention in the antibacterial finishing of textiles, one of the most familiar is chitosan. The amino group on chitosan makes it carry a positive charge, which can be combined with the electrostatic interaction between the bacterial cell membrane and change the permeability of the cell membrane, resulting in cytoplasmic outflow and cell death. But at present, the overall efficiency of natural antibacterial agents is not effectively enough, and the range of use is relatively not extensive. In this paper, two methods of antibacterial finishing of textiles are summarized. One is to prepare antibacterial fiber by directly adding antibacterial agent to spinning liquid seed in the spinning process. The second is the functional finishing method using antibacterial agent on the fabric surface; At last, the paper summarizes three methods of testing textile properties, such as bacteriostatic zone method, absorption method and oscillation method. At present, problems such as low antibacterial efficiency, poor antibacterial spectrum and insufficient durability need to be solved by antimicrobial agents in textile finishing. At the same time, the problem of poor sensitivity after finishing by antibacterial agents can not be ignored. With the upgrading of  use demand and the enhancement of safety and environmental protection awareness, the construction of durable and effective antibacterial coating on textile surface, and study of antibacterial agent type, structure and textile compound antibacterial effect, interface performance and wear evaluation, have become important development directions of antibacterial textile research in the future. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation and performance of organic electrochemical transistors with covalent organic frameworks as channel materials#br# WANG Ke, JIN Dalai Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (5): 117-124.   Abstract （92）      PDF （7264KB）（83）       Knowledge map    Save While the past decade has witnessed remarkable advances in the field of organic bioelectronics, organic electrochemical transistors (OECTs) have been regarded as one of the most promising device platforms for this purpose. An OECT is a type of transistor where the source-to-drain current is electrochemically modulated by applying biases on the gate electrode. In comparison with other organic electronic devices, OECTs have several advantages, including simple device fabrication, strechability, relatively low operation voltages, and decent on-off current ratios. Accordingly, many researchers have developed various types of OECT-based bioe-lectronics with the capability of sensing DNAs, hormones, metabolites, and neurotransmitters, or of monitoring cells, tissues, or brain activities.  To understand the mechanism of OECT device operation, the mixed transport of holes/electrons and ions through an organic channel should be considered simultaneously. When an electrical bias is applied to the gate electrode, the conductivity of the organic layer is controlled by driving small cations (or anions) from the electrolyte medium to the channel layer, so as to dedope (or dope) the constituent organic conductor, resulting in the efficient modulation of source-to-drain current. In this regard, OECTs employ the whole volume of organic film as an effective channel, unlike typical organic field-effect transistors (OFETs) with the interface between semiconducting and dielectric layers functions as a major channel. From the perspective of engineering the channel microstructure, in-plane π–π stacking among the conjugated moieties, as well as well-organized out-of-plane ordering, is highly desired to facilitate both intrachain and interchain transport of charge carriers along the channel direction. Meanwhile, porosity with micro/nanoscopic voids and molecular-scale dispersion of ion-conductive moieties (e.g., polyelectrolytes or ion-conductive side chains) should be uniformly distributed throughout the organic layer to enable facile permeation of small ions into the channel layer (e.g., conjugated molecules or polymers), leading to an effective control over charge carrier density. Among a variety of soft electronic materials, poly(3,4-ethyle-nedioxythiophene) doped with poly(styrenesulfonate) (PEDOT:PSS) has been one of the most frequently used channel materials for OECTs and related bioelectronic devices, owing to its high electrical conductivity, good optical transparency, and decent biocompatibility. However, the poor stability of PEDOT:PSS in water and the occurrence of chemical cross-linking after modification make the PEDOT:PSS film dense and interfere with interchain charge transfer, resulting in a significant decrease in electron and ion mobility. Therefore, it is urgent to to develop a channel material with high stability and electron and ion mobility.                Covalent organic frameworks (COFs) are widely used in gas adsorption/separation, energy storage and conversion, catalysis and other fields due to their excellent stability, conjugated structure, and adjustable functionality. At the same time, COF is also a promising channel material for OECT. In this study, surface-initiated Schiff base-mediated aldol condensation reaction was used to successfully grow COF films in situ on silicon wafers, and its structure was characterized by XRD, FTIR, SEM, AFM, TEM, etc. The effect of COF films in OECT application was tested through device assembly, and about 100 times the switch ratio, a low threshold voltage of 0.4 V, and a field-effect mobility of 0.53 cm2/(V·s) were obtained. The results of this study have expanded the application of covalent organic framework films in the field of electronic devices. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Effects of activating oiling agents and oiling technology on the properties of polyester high strength fibers SHI Qiang, SHI Jiaoxue, ZHENG Xiong, ZHANG Xuzhen Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (3): 155-162.   Abstract （90）      PDF （4194KB）（138）       Knowledge map    Save The activated polyester industrial yarn is a new type of industrial yarn. It can form good adhesion with rubber, PVC and other polymer matrices due to the reactive activating oiling agent attached to its surface. The original composite molding process of "spinning oiling-predipping-RFL dipping-rubber compounding" can be simplified into "activated oiling-RFL dipping-rubber compounding" because of the activated filaments. This technology can prepare polyester fabric reinforced composites with light weight, deformability, high strength, high modulus and good dimensional stability, which can be widely used in automotive industry, construction engineering and other fields. Activating oil agents play an important role in the preparation of activated polyester industrial yarns. As an important auxiliary agent to endow surface activity of polyester industrial yarns, the activating oiling agent is usually dynamically oiled through nozzles or tankers after fiber preparation. When the activating oil agent contains a humidity sensitive group, it is generally necessary to dry the oiled fibers in order to prevent excess water molecules from interfering the activation reaction after the unsealing section of the activating oiling agent. At present, there is little research on the influence of the activating oiling agent and drying treatment on the original properties of polyester industrial yarns. For this reason, three kinds of common polyester industrial yarns (general high strength GHT, high modulus low shrinkage HMLS and high strength ultra-low shrinkage SLS) were chosen as the raw materials. The yarns were treated with activating oil agents, and dried at room temperature or 75 ℃. The effects of activating oil agents and drying conditions on the linear density, mechanical properties, thermal shrinkage properties, sonic orientation and crystallinity of polyester industrial yarns were thus investigated. The experimental results show that the linear density and crystallinity of the three polyester industrial yarns increase slightly after drying treatment, while the mechanical properties, thermal shrinkage properties, sonic orientation factor and sonic modulus all decrease, especially for the Young's modulus of HMLS. After oiling treatment, the linear density of the three yarns increases, but the breaking strength, Young's modulus and thermal shrinkage decrease, and the elongation at break and crystallinity have little change. The sonic orientation factor and sonic modulus of GHT and HMLS are higher after oil treatment. Compared with the other two yarns, SLS after being oiled and dried at 75 ℃ has less mechanical strength and modulus loss, greater reduction in thermal shrinkage ratio, better dimensional stability, and higher crystallinity, which indicates that SLS is more suitable for activation modification among polyester industrial yarns. In this paper, the effects of activating oil agents and different drying conditions on the performance of GHT, HMLS and SLS polyester industrial yarns provide a new idea for the selection of polyester industrial yarns and the activation of polyester industrial yarn treatment process, and also provide a reference for the subsequent application of enhanced composite materials for polyester industrial yarns.  Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation and properties of bacterial cellulose nanofiber membranes and fibers CHEN Qinqin, XU Zhaomei, MA Tingfang, FU Feiya, LIU Xiangdong Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (5): 66-75.   Abstract （89）      PDF （8110KB）（69）       Knowledge map    Save Bacterial cellulose (BC), as a suitable alternative to petroleum-based materials, has many inherent and unique properties such as biocompatibility, biodegradability, breathability and high-water holding capacity. But it is difficult to dissolve in common organic solvents because of its tight intramolecular and intermolecular hydrogen bonds. BC usually exists in the form of thin membranes, and the mechanical properties of BC dried membranes are poor. The current methods for preparing BC nanofiber membranes (NFMs) with BC fibers all inevitably destroy the original structure of BC.  In this work, the hydrogen bonding between water and nanofibers in BC hydrogel membranes was weakened by the solvent replacement method, and the layer-by-layer peeling of BC dry membranes was achieved by hot-pressing drying combined with the top-down mechanical peeling method to produce high-strength BC-NFM, and BC fibers could be obtained by further twisting of NFMs. The morphology, structure and physicochemical properties of the BC dry membrane, NFMs and BC fibers were analyzed and studied by characterization means such as scanning electron microscopy, X-ray diffractometer, thermogravimetric analyzer, infrared spectrometer and tensile test. In addition, the strain sensing fiber BC/CNT can be achieved by embedding functional materials such as CNT into NFMs before twisting. The resistance change rate of the BC/CNT fiber obtained by this method can reach 2%. It is shown that the randomly distributed nanofibers on the surface of the BC dry membrane all have a network structure and exhibit a dense structure. As the mechanical peeling step proceeds, the nanofibers on the NFM surface become dispersed and the number of disordered nanofibers on the surface increases, which proves that NMP weakens the hydrogen bonds between the solvent and the BC nanofibers, thus facilitating the mechanical peeling of BC, and in turn leading to the appearance of microfibrils on the NFM surface. The crystallinity of all three mechanically exfoliated NFMs is lower than that of the dry BC membrane, and the crystallinity of 3rd-NFM is the smallest, demonstrating that the NMP treatment does not affect the BC crystal structure. The small-angle scattering patterns show that the arc diameter gradually becomes smaller with the increase of the stripping number, and the 3rd-NFM is the smallest, which proves that the stripping process breaks the hydrogen bonds inside BC and increases the disorder. The intensity of the tensile vibrational peak of the cellulose C−H bond decreases with the increase of the number of peeling, which proves that NMP can break the hydrogen bonds between BC molecules and form new hydrogen bonds with the hydroxyl groups in BC molecules. The NFMs with thickness in the range of 5.0 to 8.0 μm shows a maximum transmission of 23%, water absorption of 2,284% and tensile strength of 338.0 MPa, each of which is higher than that of the BC dry membrane. Compared with the maximum decomposition temperature of the BC dry membrane (359.7 °C), the main weight loss peak temperatures of all the three NFMs are reduced in the range of 333.7 to 339.5 °C, demonstrating the disruption of intermolecular and intramolecular hydrogen bonds of BC by NMP. Surface SEM images of BC fibers show that the 3rd-NFM-fiber has the smallest diameter and the tightest structure, proving that mechanical peeling effectively reduces the diameter of NFMs-fiber and enhances the structural denseness of the fiber. The monitoring of tiny human body movements by BC/CNT conductive fibers fully demonstrates their potential application in smart wearable devices.  This paper provides scientific data for the preparation of BC-NFMs by top-down method of mechanical peeling, which provides new ideas for the development of high-strength NFMs. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation and properties of AgNWs-PVDF air-jet- electrospinning microfiber Xiong Tiantian, Li Lijun, Zou Hantao, Nie Fushan Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (3): 92-101.   Abstract （87）      PDF （10683KB）（82）       Knowledge map    Save In order to improve the spinning rate and fiber strength of electrospinning, AgNWs-PVDF nanofiber membranes were prepared by coaxial electrospinning needle combined with high-speed airflow assisted electrospinning.The microstructure, filtration, strength and antibacterial properties of nanofibers were studied by SEM, permeability, filtration, mechanical properties, antibacterial properties, porosity and pore size distribution.The results showed that after adding AgNWs, the average diameter of 0.5% AgNWs-PVDF air-jet-electrospinning nanofiber membranes was the lowest, up to 73.85 nm, while the average pore size and breaking elongation of the nanofiber membranes decreased. The 1% AgNWs-PVDF air-jet-electrospinning membrane had the strongest breaking strength, reaching 6.52 MPa. With the increase of the AgNWs content, the hydrophilicity of the air-jet-electrospinning membrane increased, the air permeability decreased, and the filtration efficiency increased.The 2%  AgNWs-PVDF air-jet-electrospinning fiber membrane had the best antibacterial effect, and the diameters of the inhibition zone against Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus were 26.23 mm and 26.89 mm, respectively. Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress on sustainable fashion consumption ZHOU Zeyan, XU Jun, SHAN Yufu, HAO Yan, LEI Zhenzhen Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (4): 1-10.   Abstract （87）      PDF （1667KB）（88）       Knowledge map    Save Sustainability is the focus of the fashion industry, but the research on sustainable fashion consumption is still very scattered, lacking of more systematic summary. Based on the above problems, this paper uses Bibliometrix to conduct a quantitative analysis and a systematic literature review of 140 articles published in the Web of Science from 2018 to 2022. As shown by the results, this field mainly conducts research from four themes: consumer perspective, business perspective, product perspective and industry perspective. Challenges in sustainable fashion consumption include pollution, complexity, incompatibility, ecological consciousness, social status and unfairness. Opportunities in sustainable fashion consumption include utilitarianism, hedonism, leadership influence, nostalgia, pollution management and adequacy. Future research can be carried out from the perspective of national characteristic culture, technology perspective, nostalgic perspective, infant perspective, and transnational perspective.  Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress of cellulose electrospinning and its derived nanofibers in biomedicine applications YANG Haizhen, WEI Sujie, MA Chuang, ZHOU Zelin, WANG Mengjia, FU Yuan Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (3): 212-224.   Abstract （86）      PDF （5542KB）（72）       Knowledge map    Save  Cellulose is a macromolecular polysaccharide composed of glucose, which has good biocompatibility, degradability and compatibility with other substances; Cellulose derivatives are the products of cellulose esterification or etherification, which make up for the limitations of the physical and chemical properties of cellulose, and can better meet the different needs of the medical field after modification. Therefore, cellulose and its derived nanofibers have good application prospects in tissue engineering scaffolds, wound dressings, drug delivery/delivery, antibacterial and medical devices. Cellulose is a rich renewable resource, which can inhibit the growth of saprophytic bacteria, cholic acid and anaerobic bacteria, reduce the cholesterol content in the blood, reduce the deposition of cholesterol on the blood vessel wall, and prevent arteriosclerosis. However, due to the strong hydrogen bond network between cellulose molecular chains and highly crystalline aggregation structure, it is difficult to process cellulose, and other materials are also difficult to adsorb on cellulose. With the development of electrospinning technology, the treatment steps of cellulose have been simplified, and its position in the medical field has also been improved. Nanocellulose can be matched with human skeleton, which improves the mechanical properties of the derivative antibacterial film and makes it have good antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli. In the simulated cell solution, it is highly similar to the extracellular matrix, and there is no rejection in the human body. Due to its low toxicity and excellent degradability, cellulose derivatives can control the drug delivery rate and deliver drugs to target cells in drug carriers. In recent years, nano cellulose has made great progress in the field of human motion monitoring. The research shows that three-dimensional nano cellulose in the form of aerogel can be used as a medical wearable human monitoring system to simulate the characteristics of human skin for comprehensive monitoring of the human body. The research of cellulose electrospinning and its derived nanofibers is an effective way to strengthen the short board in the biomedical field. Studies confirm that electrospun cellulose nanofibers are smaller than cells in diameter and can simulate the structure and biological function of natural extracellular matrix. How to functionalize cellulose in the biomedical field has become a research hotspot. At present, natural polymer materials are widely used in the field of biomedicine, and cellulose, as an important part of them, has great application potential. It is a research hotspot in the field of biomedicine to functionalize inanimate materials and transform them into living tissue materials to reduce the rejection of materials in the human body. Cellulose has unique advantages due to its good biocompatibility and high controllability. However, due to the hydrogen bond network structure of cellulose itself, it is difficult to dissolve cellulose. How to dissolve cellulose efficiently has been the focus of research. Therefore, it is necessary to conduct more in-depth research on the dissolution mechanism, develop a clean and efficient cellulose dissolution technology, and form cellulose derived materials through electrospinning reconstruction or blend with other materials to improve the application of cellulose nanofibers in the biomedical field. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation and conductive properties of flexible sensors based on silk fibroin/MXene composite nanofiber membranes WANG Yina, DING Xinboa, LIU Taoa, b, QIU Qiaohuaa, WANG Yanminga Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (4): 63-73.   Abstract （86）      PDF （13363KB）（54）       Knowledge map    Save Flexible sensors have the characteristics of well flexibility, ductility, lightness and portability, can be bent or even folded, can adapt to the measurement of physiological signals of complex surfaces, and have a broad market in medical care, motion monitoring, robot human-computer interface, etc. However, there are still many problems to be solved in the development of flexible sensors. During fabrication of high-performance sensors, complex and costly manufacturing processes are often involved, such as 3D electronic printing, metal plasma deposition, silicon based etching and other technologies. It is difficult to achieve large-scale, low-cost, high-performance flexible sensor preparation. Therefore, it is still an urgent problem to develop flexible stress sensors with light weight, high reliability, high sensitivity, fast response, low hysteresis and good biocompatibility to adapt to different applications. MXene, as a new two-dimensional nano material, has excellent conductivity, good mechanical properties and high specific surface area. At present, MXene materials are mostly used in energy storage, catalysis, electromagnetic materials and other fields, and there is less research work in the field of flexible sensors. Therefore, studying the application of new material MXene in the field of flexible sensors and exploring its sensing mechanism will not only help broaden the application scope of MXene material, but also further develop the application of wearable electronic devices. In order to obtain a flexible strain sensor with a large strain sensing range and high sensitivity, SF with excellent mechanical properties and good biocompatibility is used as the matrix. MXene material is obtained by etching Ti3AlC2 with HF as the additive material. The nanofiber composite membrane with high porosity, large specific surface area and high permeability is obtained by electrospinning after blending SF and MXene, and its structure and properties are analyzed. It is found that the flexible sensor prepared by this method not only has good mechanical and physical properties such as light weight, high stability, and good durability, but also has good sensing properties such as high conductivity, high sensitivity, and fast response speed, which can maintain the initial resistance after 6000 bending cycles. MXene shows great application prospects in the field of flexible sensors. As a thin, portable and highly sensitive flexible sensor, SF/MXene sensor is convenient for people to monitor health, sports and other information anytime and anywhere, which is conducive to timely discovery, prevention or rehabilitation of diseases, and has good application prospects in medical care, sports monitoring and other fields. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress on alkali deweighting promoter for polyester fabrics CHEN Linguoa, b, ZHANG Hongjuana, b, DING Leia, b, PEI Liujuna, b, WANG Jipinga, b Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (6): 61-71.   Abstract （86）      PDF （4091KB）（93）       Knowledge map    Save Polyester fiber is currently the most widely used synthetic fiber. However, its poor moisture absorption, susceptibility to static electricity, and other issues have hindered its market prospects as a high-end textile material. Alkali reduction treatment can improve the inherent defects of polyester fiber, resulting in a soft and smooth texture, a pleasant sheen, good drapability, water retention, and other advantages. Meanwhile, this treatment makes it has the characteristics of imitated silk. Nevertheless, the traditional alkali reduction process for polyester involves excessive use of alkali, making it difficult to process. Finally, it requires a large amount of acid to neutralize. As a result, there are many problems, such as high energy consumption, serious environmental pollution, and serious damage to the fabric. Additionally, the liquid alkali is also a dangerous chemical, so safety problems should be considered. All these problems seriously restrict the sustainable development of the polyester textile industry. Therefore, reducing the amount of liquid alkali with promoters is currently the most convenient, environmentally friendly, and easily implementable improvement method in the alkali reduction technology. Currently, promoters are widely used to improve alkali utilization, reduce the environmental hazards of excessive alkali, and impart exceptional performance to fabrics. Promoters can be roughly categorized into quaternary ammonium salts, gelatin protein promoters, cationic polymers, ionic liquids, amines, alcohols, and others. Among them, quaternary ammonium salts are widely used. In terms of effectiveness, most promoters can accelerate the hydrolysis of polyester and reduce the amount of alkali required. And different promoters have different promotion mechanisms. Quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants mainly utilize positively charged quaternary ammonium ions to attack the carbonyl carbon atoms by carrying the hydroxide ions, further promoting the rapid hydrolysis of ester bonds in polyester macromolecules. Gelatin has certain surface activity, infiltration, and colloidal protection. In the process of alkali reduction, gelatin can play a role in swelling fiber and reducing surface tension. Some new alkali reduction promoters are mainly cationic polymers. They mainly adsorb more hydroxide ions through water-soluble quaternary ammonium cation groups, so as to achieve the purpose of promoting the hydrolysis of polyester. Ionic liquid is a kind of compound ionic surfactant and it can completely ionize in water. The cationic part of the ionic liquid has a long carbon chain and strong adsorption capacity for polyester. Its mechanism is similar with quaternary ammonium salts. There are some other additives that can also promote polyester hydrolysis. For example, ammonia mainly generates an amide group at one end and a hydroxyl group at the other end to destroy the polymer chain through the diffusion of amine molecules in the polymer. Alcohol can realize the purpose of surface functionalization of polyester through the exchange reaction of ester and amine.  The traditional alkali reduction treatment of polyester fiber has the following problems, such as high concentration of liquid alkali, great difficulty in processing, serious environmental pollution, and high energy consumption. All these problems seriously restrict the sustainable development of the polyester textile industry. The addition of promoters is an effective way to improve the utilization rate of alkali. The promoter can transfer and enrich the OH- in the solution on the fiber surface, and OH- is more likely to attack the carbon atoms in the carbonyl group with partial positive charge in the polyester molecule. As a result, the hydrolysis reaction of the polyester molecule becomes easy. Therefore, how to effectively use promoters to reduce the amount of liquid alkali has become a research hotspot to promote the sustainable development of polyester textiles. The development of alkali reduction promoters can be started from the following perspectives: first of all, the new promoter is synthesized to increase the function of the fabric while effectively reducing the amount of liquid alkali and retaining the advantages of liquid alkali treatment. For example, the use of gelatin protein reagents can also play a certain role in fiber repair while improving the performance of fibers. By increasing the study of the combination of accelerators to explore the mechanism, the cost saving treatment formula with the best effect was obtained. The development of alkali reduction technology can also be applied to the alkali reduction dyeing one-bath system of polyester fabrics, which can reduce energy consumption and be more environmentally friendly and efficient. The use of promoters to reduce the alkali concentration provides more possibilities for the pH application range of some alkali-resistant disperse dyes, and development space for alkaline dyeing technology. This provides reference for promoting the industrialization development of polyester fabric alkali reduction technology and realizing the sustainable development of the textile printing and dyeing industry. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research status and progress of textile materials with sound-absorbing and sound insulation functions PAN Leilei, FAN Shuo, WANG Yuxuan, ZHANG Hongxia Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (6): 216-225.   Abstract （86）      PDF （2166KB）（182）       Knowledge map    Save As a global environmental problem, noise pollution seriously endangers people's physical health and quality of life, affecting sleep, damaging the hearing system, damaging cardiovascular system, causing mental system dysfunction, reducing work efficiency, and affecting children's intellectual development. Therefore, it is crucial to develop materials with sound absorption and sound insulation functions. The porous structure of textile materials endows them with sound absorption performance, making them widely used in the field of noise reduction. Textile materials, as porous materials, are based on a combination of sound absorption and sound insulation mechanisms. The sound absorption and sound insulation of textile materials includes three parts. The first part is that the incident sound wave is reflected. The second part is that sound waves enter the pores in the fiber material, causing air vibration and causing sound energy loss. The third part is the multiple reflections of sound waves in the material pores. The biggest advantage of textile materials compared to other flexible materials lies in their processing performance, which can be processed into various shapes, arranged regularly, and distributed evenly. Based on this advantage, textile materials can be combined with other materials to prepare composite noise reduction materials. Materials with sound absorption and sound insulation functions include porous materials, resonant materials, and damping materials. To improve the noise reduction performance of porous textile materials, textile materials are combined with resonance materials and damping materials. Three types of textile composite noise reduction materials can be generated through different construction methods: porous composite noise reduction materials, porous and resonant composite noise reduction materials, and porous and damping composite noise reduction materials. These three composite noise reduction materials can effectively improve the noise reduction performance in the mid to low frequency range and broaden the range of sound absorption frequency bands. Porous composite noise reduction materials can form three types of materials: multi-layer structure, sandwich structure, and gradient structure by laminating different materials. Porous and resonant composite materials are composites of fibrous porous materials and resonant materials, including thin plates, perforated plates, and microperforated plates. Among them, perforated plate resonance and microperforated plate resonance are the most commonly used resonant sound absorption methods today. In addition, noise reduction functional fillers are also widely used in textile materials, forming porous and damping composite noise reduction materials. The preparation of composite noise reduction materials by combining textile porous materials with other materials is still the research focus of current sound-absorbing and sound insulation functional textile materials. In addition, with the rapid development of technology and the requirements of sustainable green development, the recycling and reuse of waste fibers and the application of new technologies will be the main development trends in the future. The future sound-absorbing and sound insulation textile materials should develop towards the direction of structural diversification, material composites, intelligent methods, and green environmental protection. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation and properties of rGO/MWCNT/PDMS composite flexible pressure sensors CHEN Ling, REN Meng, ZHANG Desuo Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (5): 22-29.   Abstract （85）      PDF （4174KB）（79）       Knowledge map    Save With the rapid development of the wearable electronic device industry all over the word, the related products have shown great commercial prospects. As the future growing trend of wearable electronic devices, flexible wearable electronics has gradually become the focus of research and application in various fields, especially in the textile field. Among them, as a key component of information interaction, the flexible pressure sensor has attracted much attention due to its broad application prospects in health detection, electronic skin, human-computer interaction, flexible touch screen and other fields. According to its sensing mechanism, flexible pressure sensors are generally divided into piezoresistive, capacitive and piezoelectric ones. In practical applications, sensitivity and stability are the key technical indicators of flexible pressure sensors. In order to develop a flexible pressure sensor with high sensitivity and excellent stability, a composite porous capacitive flexible pressure sensor was prepared in this research with polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) as the substrate, multi-wall carbon nanotubes (MWCNT) and reduced graphene oxide (rGO) as fillers. And the porous structure was formed through sugar particle template. The effects of single doping with MWCNT and composite doping with MWCNT and rGO on the sensitivity of the sensor were compared. The structure of PDMS sponge after doping in different ways and the influence of the doping concentration on the sensitivity were analyzed. The key sensing characteristics of the sensor, such as response time, hysteresis and cycle stability were tested. The feasibility of its application in intelligent wearable textiles was discussed. The results show that the blending doping with rGO can effectively improve the aggregation of MWCNT, improve the dispersible uniformity of the doped conductive medium, maintain the porous structure of PDMS sponge, and effectively improve the sensitivity of the pressure sensor. When the mass ratio of MWCNT to rGO is 1:1 and the doping concentration is 2.5%, the sensitivity of the rGO/MWCNT/PDMS composite flexible pressure sensor reaches the highest value. The sensitivity reaches 31.324 kPa-1 in the pressure range of 0~0.5 kPa, which is more than four times of the pure PDMS sponge, and more than twice of mono-doped MWCNT with the same mass ratio. At the same time, the flexible pressure sensor also shows fast response, minimal hysteresis error, good cycle stability and mechanical stability. The strain-stress curves of 300 and 500 cycles of cyclic compression at 30% deformation are basically consistent. The intelligent insole designed and prepared by using the flexible pressure sensor shows good response feedback to different foot pressures, which can be used in intelligent sports shoes as a flexible pressure sensor unit for recording and analyzing athletes' running posture data, showing a broad application prospect in intelligent wearable products. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation of boron nitride/polyurethane fabric coating and its cooling performance ZHANG Jun, LI Yutao, CHEN Xiaolong, YANG Lei, , SHEN Yifeng, , JIANG Fang, , Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (3): 203-211.   Abstract （83）      PDF （10624KB）（44）       Knowledge map    Save With the continuous improvement of people's living standards, people's demand for clothing has undergone a more diversified transformation. The diversity of consumption makes the market put forward more requirements for the functionality of fabrics. At present, some consumers are more concerned about the softness, wrinkle resistance, and windproof or waterproof performance of clothing, while others are more concerned about the breathable perspiration, cool, and anti-ultraviolet ability of clothing. With the aggravation of global warming, summer extreme temperatures and duration continue to increase, and more and more people realize the importance of fabric heat dissipation ability. Up to now, most of the methods used to improve the heat dissipation capacity of fabrics are to change the fabric structure, increase the heat dissipation porosity, and obtain functional fabrics by adding cool fibers prepared by thermally conductive materials or constructing thermally conductive coating by the grafting load to increase the surface thermal conductivity. However, the former tends to lose the mechanical properties of the fabric due to the increase of voids and has the defects of high energy consumption, high cost, long process, and low efficiency in the spinning process. Therefore, more and more attention would be paid to improving the thermal conductivity of fabrics by grafting loading. In order to effectively improve the cooling performance of the fabric, the thermally conductive coating constructed by boron nitride (BN)/polyurethane (PU) was studied to improve the cooling effect of cotton fabrics. Starting from the two-dimensional layered thermally conductive material BN, firstly, functionalized BN (FBN) was prepared with ultrasonic stripping as the thermally conductive filler of the functional coating. Then, the cotton fabric was grafted with a silane coupling agent to obtain the modified cotton fabric with abundant hydrogen bonds and active groups on the surface, which is convenient for the effective adhesion of subsequent coatings. Finally, the aqueous PU (WPU) was used as the polymer substrate supported by the coating, and a certain amount of FBN and WPU was configured into the required functional coating dispersions in a certain proportion. The FBN/WPU functional coating was successfully loaded on the modified cotton fabric by the method of one dipping and one rolling and hot setting. In this paper, the thermal conductivity filler FBN was successfully attached to the fabric surface by the efficient combination of the active groups rich in silane coupling agents and WPU. Compared with the functional thermal conductivity fiber, the research method in this paper greatly reduced the production cost. It was found that when the ratio of silane coupling agent to water to ethanol was 1:1:3 and the FBN mass fraction was 15%, the final thermal conductivity of cool fabrics was increased by 811% compared with cotton fabrics. In addition, the coolness coefficient of the fabric was tested. The coolness coefficient of the fabric finished by functional coatings reached 0.220 J/(cm2·s), which met the national standard of China. The diversified demand requires the market to make more changes to cope with the future environment. We believe that, with the increasing demand for cool fabrics, how to improve the cooling performance of fabrics and maintain the comfort of the body feeling will attract more and more people's attention. The research results can provide a reference for the design and development of functional fabrics. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Effects of silane coupling agent modification on the mechanical properties of basalt fiber-reinforced vinyl ester resin composites LUO Xuanyao, WEI Yuehai, MA Leilei, TIAN Wei, ZHU Chengyan Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (4): 103-110.   Abstract （82）      PDF （6443KB）（52）       Knowledge map    Save Fiber-reinforced resin matrix composites have developed rapidly in recent years. Their overall properties are not only related to the properties of resins and fibers, but also closely related to the interface between resins and fibers. When the composite is loaded, the interface will transfer the stress of the matrix to the reinforced fiber in the form of shear stress. Therefore, fiber-reinforced composites require excellent interface phases so that the matrix can effectively transfer load to the fiber. The appropriate modification method can improve the interface and mechanical properties of the composites. The operation steps of silane coupling agent modification are relatively simple, and the fiber will not be damaged during modification. There are hydroxyl groups on the surface of the basalt fiber, so the use of silane coupling agents can build a bridge between the basalt fiber and resin matrix. In order to improve the interfacial bonding property of the basalt fiber and vinyl ester resin, silane coupling agents KH550, KH560 and A171 with a respective mass fraction of 0.5%, 1.0%, 1.5% and 2% were used to modify the basalt fiber, and basalt fiber-reinforced vinyl ester resin composites were prepared by the molding process. The scanning electron microscope, infrared spectrometer and universal testing machine were used to test and analyze the surface micro morphology and chemical structure of basalt fibers and the mechanical properties of composite materials, and to explore the modification mechanism of silane coupling agents with different kinds and concentrations, providing theoretical support for their application in engineering practice. The research results show that after the basalt fiber is modified by the silane coupling agent, the silane coupling agent is grafted on the surface of the basalt fiber, which makes the surface rough and increases the surface chemical activity of the fiber, forming an interface layer to transmit stress, and improving the bending strength and impact strength of basalt fiber-reinforced composites. The absolute value of Pearson correlation coefficient R of bending strength and impact strength fitting curves is approximately 1 after the basalt fiber is modified by silane coupling agents with different kinds and different mass fractions, which indicates that the fitting curve is approximately a quadratic equation with one variable, showing a trend of first increasing and then decreasing. The basalt fiber modified by silane coupling agents KH550, KH560 and A171 with a mass fraction of 1% has the best interface bonding with vinyl ester resin, and the flexural strength of the modified basalt fiber-reinforced composite is respectively 16.71%, 14.96% and 13.59% higher than that of the unmodified composite; the impact strength increases by 10.13%, 8.84% and 7.41%. With the experimental results taken into consideration comprehensively, the modification effect of KH550 is the largest, followed by that of KH560, and that of A171 is the smallest. In this paper, basalt fibers were modified by silane coupling agents KH550, KH560, and A171 with different mass fractions, and the mechanical properties of their reinforced vinyl ester resin composites were analyzed to study the modification effect of silane coupling agents, and the best type and concentration of silane coupling agents were given, playing a certain guiding role in improving the interfacial bonding properties and mechanical properties of composites. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Mix and match style transfer for the images of clothes with CycleGAN#br# WANG Weizhena, b, ZHANG Gonga Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (4): 250-258.   Abstract （82）      PDF （4968KB）（46）       Knowledge map    Save With the continuous integration of artificial intelligence (AI) technology and the fashion field, the use of style transfer technology to generate new images has become one of the research hotspots of aided intelligent clothing design. However, the use of current style transfer technology in the process of aided intelligent design still has great limitations. Only completing the transfer of a single style limits the diversity of generated clothing images, and the detail distortion of the clothing image with the character background reduces the authenticity of the generated clothing images. Aiming at solving the problems of the undiversified transfer form and local detail distortion of clothing image styles in complicated conditions, a method of clothing image mixing and matching style transfer was proposed to realize the multi-style transfer of clothing styles and patterns. During the experiment, we took CycleGAN as the baseline model, with the advantage of improving the effect of style transfer without requiring pairwise training and cyclic consistency loss, used Resnet generator and PatchGAN discriminator for training, and introduced the segmentation mask. On the one hand, spatial constraints were formed for the stylization of specific areas, instance normalization was added to the discriminator to maintain the independence of image instances, spectral normalization was added to the first and last layers of the convolution layer to enhance the classification ability of the network, and background optimization loss was added to optimize the local details of the generated images, especially the boundary artifacts, which jointly promoted the generation effect and realized the style transfer of clothing styles. On the other hand, the method of image fusion was proposed. According to the pattern fusion mapping relationship, the pattern was integrated into the clothing image output by the discriminator to realize the multi-style transfer of clothing styles and patterns. In order to verify the effectiveness of the above method in the multi-style transfer of clothing images, the clothing image design sketches generated in the experiment were compared with the design sketches generated by CycleGAN and InstaGAN models. By subjectively analyzing the style diversity and detail differences of the design sketches, the IS and SSIM were used for quantitative analysis, and the subjective visual effect and objective numerical comparison both showed the advantages of this experimental method in the diversity and the authenticity of image details. The multi-style transfer of clothing styles and patterns can provide designers with creative inspiration and shorten the time period required for effect presentation, making AI more suitable for assisting clothing design behavior. In subsequent experiments, we will explore the transfer of more types of clothing styles, so as to achieve a diversified and controllable style transfer method. In addition, emotional elements needed for perceptual design should be added in the process of image style transfer, so as to promote the integration of computational thinking and design thinking of future-oriented design paradigm. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Fabric defect detection based on improved YOLOv5 model GAO Min, ZOU Yanglin, CAO Xinwang Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (4): 155-163.   Abstract （79）      PDF （4983KB）（60）       Knowledge map    Save China is the largest producer and consumer of textiles in the world, and the textile industry is a traditional industry in China. The industry affects people's life and employment issues, and plays an important role in the national economy. The widely used textile products are indispensable in people's lives and the quality of them not only affects people's lives, but the development of textile enterprises. Therefore, in the production process of textile products, the quality inspection is a very important link in the production chain. For a long time, due to the limitations of the cloth making process and production equipment, the surface of the cloth is often stained, and there are broken figures and other defects. Traditional detection methods have many disadvantages. On the one hand, the detection efficiency of cloth inspection workers is relatively low, and a cloth inspector can find 200 defects per hour at most. Because some defects are small and difficult to be found, the defect detection rate is only 70%, and the concentration lasts half an hour at most. If this time range is exceeded, visual fatigue will occur. As workers rely on subjective experience when inspecting the quality of cloth, and long-term work will cause visual fatigue, missed inspections and wrong inspections will inevitably occur, leading to low defect detection efficiency of cloth. On the other hand, because the cloth inspection work requires a lot of eyesight and energy of the workers, it is difficult to recruit workers and the cost is high. If there is a missed inspection in the cloth inspection process and the defects are not picked out, the products produced will be classified as defective products even if the cloth has passed the follow-up cumbersome processing, which will cause certain economic losses to the enterprise. With the development of artificial intelligence, all walks of life are moving towards intelligent production. Computer vision has replaced humans eyes and brains to observe the world through cameras and computers, automatically analyzing the collected videos or pictures. In the field of target detection, with the rise of deep learning, the performance of target detection has also been greatly improved. To address such problems as unsatisfactory detection effects for small targets, we conducted research on the surface defects of cloth by combining with the deep learning network, proposing an algorithm model based on deep learning for defect detection and classification. This model can improve the detection accuracy and reduce the missed detection rate of small targets, which meets the needs of actual production for detection of cloth defects, and has certain practical significance on the intelligent development of the weaving industry. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Design and analysis of automatic grabbing device for cocoons without end  in supplier of correct end cocoons#br# YANG Xiaolong, LI Sheng, JIANG Wenbin Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (3): 21-26.   Abstract （78）      PDF （1715KB）（75）       Knowledge map    Save In order to solve the problem that there are cocoons without end in supplier of correct end cocoons during silk reeling and that the cocoons without end are grabbed manually, an automatic grabbing device for cocoons without end in supplier of correct end cocoons is designed. The transmission part transmits the power to the supplier of correct end cocoons and the transverse sliding rail mechanism through two transmission routes by the deceleration motor. The motion characteristics of the slider-crank mechanism and the linear differential doubling mechanism of gear and rack contained in the transverse sliding rail mechanism are analyzed in detail, and the optimal grabbing node is determined by calculation. Finally, the end-grabbing mechanism is introduced, and the time rhythm of laying the cocoons without end and reset of the device is planned. The analysis shows that the structure of the automatic grabbing device for cocoons without end in supplier of correct end cocoons is reasonable and feasible, which provides a new idea for the treatment of cocoons without end in supplier of correct end cocoons. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Analysis of green standards of China′s textile and garment industry HE Chengtiana, b, DONG Tingwei, FU Chenxina, YU Tongqiana, XU Yua, YE Xiangyu, WANG Lailia, b, Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (4): 11-19.   Abstract （77）      PDF （1593KB）（60）       Knowledge map    Save In order to systematically analyze the green standards of China′s textile and garment industry, we statistically categorized the existing relevant green standards, sorted out the green evaluation indexes and compared the green index limits. The results show that the current green standards of textile and garment industry are divided into three categories of restricted standards (the norm of water intake, the discharge limit of water pollutants, and the norm of energy consumption) and five categories of encouraging standards (the water-saving enterprise evaluation, the green factory evaluation, the green-ecological product evaluation, the green industrial park evaluation and the green supply chain evaluation). The evaluation indexes in the first four categories of standards only set requirements for a certain aspect of green performance, while the latter four categories of standards are based on the multi-dimensional comprehensive evaluation of water withdrawal, energy consumption, pollutant emission and other indicators. In terms of the norm of water intake and wastewater discharge limit per unit of product, the standards for the norm of water intake and discharge standards of water pollutants have the minimum requirements in relevant standards. In terms of energy consumption limit per unit product, there is a small gap in the limit value among the standards for the norm of energy consumption, green factory evaluation standards and green-ecological product evaluation standards for similar products. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation and properties of SBS/CNTs elastic conductive composite fiber LI Dongliang, LIU Huiying, LI Lele, SUN Baojie, JIANG Liang, ZHOU Yanfen, CHEN Shaojuan, MA Jianwei Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (3): 121-127.   Abstract （76）      PDF （5152KB）（68）       Knowledge map    Save In recent years, with the progress of science and technology, wearable electronic products have been used more and more in portable medical monitoring devices, electronic skin, portable electronic devices and other fields. Strain sensors, as the core components of intelligent wearable devices, have received extensive attention. Traditional strain sensors based on metal and semiconductor materials have poor extensibility and unstable conductivity, which limits their use in the intelligent wearable field. Conductive polymer composite fiber, with the advantages of being easy to bend, can be attached to skin, and can be braided, so its application in strain sensors has been rapidly developed. In order to prepare flexible strain sensors with good tensile property, the SBS/CNTs elastic conductive composite fiber was prepared by wet spinning, using polystyrene butadiene styrene triblock thermoplastic elastomer (SBS) with good tensile property as the matrix and carbon nanotubes (CNTs) with high conductivity, good mechanical properties and flexibility as the conductive filler. The influence of the mass ratio of CNTs with two different aspect ratios on the morphology, mechanical properties, electrical conductivity and tensile resistance response of SBS/CNTs elastic conductive composite fibers were studied. The results showed that the cross section of SBS/CNTs elastic conductive composite fiber was bean-shaped, and porous structure appeared near the fiber center due to solvent exchange during wet spinning. When the ratio of long CNTs (10~30 µm) to short CNTs (0.5~2.0 µm) was 4:1, the conductivity of SBS/CNTs elastic conductive composite fiber was the highest (0.04065 S/m). The maximum inductive strain of the strain sensor based on this fiber was 70.2%, and it had good sensitivity and stability. The strain sensor based on SBS/CNTs elastic conductive composite fiber showed good response behavior in monitoring various human body activities including the knee, wrist, finger and elbow. Although the conductive polymer composite fiber based strain sensor has more excellent tensile properties, there are still some problems to be solved. For example, carbon nanotubes and other nano sized conductive fillers are easy to agglomerate in the polymer matrix. How to improve their dispersion by surface modification or adding compatibilizers, and how to improve their interfacial bonding with the polymer matrix are problems to be solved. In addition, the performance of the fiber is affected not only by the material performance, but also by the spinning process parameters. Through the optimization of the spinning process, it is expected to prepare conductive composite fibers with better performance. The solution of these problems will better promote the practical application of flexible strain sensors. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Fabrication and Wearable Application of Fabric-Based Triboelectric Pressure Sensor FANG Xiangmin, QU Lijun, TIAN Mingwei Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (4): 183-191.   Abstract （76）      PDF （6286KB）（48）       Knowledge map    Save In recent years, with the continuous development of 5G technology, smart wearable devices have attracted more and more attention. Human body movement can produce a large amount of mechanical energy, in addition to the consumption of life-sustaining activities, another part of the consumption because of the work done to the outside world. Converting human mechanical energy into electrical energy is a solution to the inconvenience caused by external power supply of intelligent wearable equipment. Friction nanogenerators (Teng) can harvest mechanical energy from the environment and convert it into electricity, but the original TENG was not wearable due to limitations in materials and manufacturing processes. The combination of textiles and TENG is an important solution for wearable self-powered electronics, with the advantages of good air permeability, flexibility and ease of integration into smart wearable devices, it has a broad application prospect in the new generation of wearable electronic products. The textile-based TENG is a new kind of friction nano-generator, which is based on fiber or fabric. It has many advantages, such as good flexibility, good air permeability, wear resistance and comfortable wearing, more conducive to the environment from the human body, the human movement to obtain and collect energy. The current research focuses on the structure design and material selection of Teng, which improves the charge transfer capacity and electrical output capacity of TENG. In order to increase the output of TENG, the effective contact area between friction materials can be increased besides the charge transfer efficiency. Limited by the flexibility and roughness of the friction layer material, TENG's effective friction layer contact area is smaller than the actual contact area, reducing the amount of charge transfer between the two friction layers. Due to the limitations of the materials used in the two-dimensional structure design, there are few studies on increasing the electrical output by increasing the effective contact area of the friction layer. In winter, all kinds of commercial suede fabrics are easy to produce electric spark when they rub with human body and other garments, which proves that the suede fabrics have certain triboelectric properties. And the pile fabric has excellent wear resistance, flexibility, washable, but also has low production cost, continuous production mode, so the winter pile fabric as a substrate, combined with friction nano-generator technology, a new type of flexible friction nano-generator based on textile fabric was constructed, and the main research object was fleece, a self-powered triboelectric pile fabric-based pressure sensor, which can be cleaned, produced continuously and at low cost, and a rocking pile fabric-based TENG are obtained The fleece-based TENG can collect the voltage signals of different parts of the human body, and can be used as a self-powered triboelectric pressure sensor in many applications, the application potential of textiles in self-powered intelligent wearable devices is demonstrated. The research results can provide some ideas for the structure design and application scenario of textile-based TENG. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Production scheduling model of garment sewing workshop with learning and forgetting effects#br# DONG Pingjun, YU Jian’an Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (3): 81-91.   Abstract （74）      PDF （1408KB）（46）       Knowledge map    Save  With the deep integration of cutting-edge technologies, such as Internet of Things, artificial intelligence and 5G and manufacturing, the fourth industrial revolution, represented by intelligent manufacturing, is taking place. There is no exceptions of traditionally labor-intensive textile and garment industry, in which most value chain sections such as spinning and weaving are undergoing or have undergone profound changes. Nevertheless, in the sewing link of garment manufacturing and production, on the one hand, most manufacturers are forced by market demand to increasingly turn to the production mode of small batch and short delivery cycle; on the other hand, the sewing link itself involves many processes and changes quickly. In the foreseeable future, it is difficult for automatic machines to meet this highly flexible production environment, and manual density will remain an important feature of garment sewing production. At the same time, China's textile and garment industry is in a period of transfer and change, with rising labor costs and high turnover of front-line production employees, resulting in more complexity and uncertainty. In order to adapt to the general trend of manufacturing transformation and upgrading, and adapt to the complexity of garment sewing production, it is one of the potential directions to study a new management scheduling method that takes into account workers' cognitive and learning differences. We proposed a hybrid flow batch scheduling model including employees' learning and forgetting effects for garment sewing workshops. We used minimizing makespan and minimizing idle mean square error as the objective function, and selected the non-dominated genetic algorithm as the solution tool, aiming to realize "worker-process-station" fine-grained scheduling optimization. According to the model, we carried out an algorithm simulation experiment on a real garment factory data, selected the appropriate batch size as the experimental parameter, and compared two kinds of scheduling optimization models with and without learning and forgetting effects. The simulation results show that model considering the learning and forgetting effects is more suitable for the production environment under heterogeneous scenarios of workers than not considering, which verifies the effectiveness of the model and algorithm. We introduce the worker learning and forgetting factor matrix to optimize scheduling design for increasingly uncertain production environment. As for how to reasonably determine each worker's learning and forgetting factors,  we can consider using the real-time big data of the MES system, ERP system and the Internet of Things system of the garment factory in the next step to build a dynamic model to fit and calculate factors such as the learning and forgetting rate of "employee-process-station", so as to achieve a real-time dynamic executable scheduling scheme Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress on the mechanical stability of flexible perovskite solar cells HAN Jingchuanga, SONG Lixinb, XIONG Jieb Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (5): 249-258.   Abstract （74）      PDF （6799KB）（49）       Knowledge map    Save As people's attention to renewable energy continues to grow, solar cells are also receiving increasing attention. Perovskite solar cells, as a new type of solar cell, have made significant progress in recent years and have become one of the hotspots in the field of solar cells. Flexible perovskite solar cells are a typical type, with lightweight, high efficiency, and high flexibility, making them ideal for practical applications such as wearable devices and mobile power sources. Nevertheless, the mechanical stability of flexible perovskite solar cell has always been an important issue restricting their application. In the preparation and actual use of the cells, the generation and expansion of cracks and defects are considered to be the main cause of device failure. To study the mechanical stability of flexible perovskite solar cells, extensive experimental and theoretical research work has been carried out. Through mechanical parameter testing, we used first-principles calculations and nanoindentation techniques to measure the elastic modulus and hardness, and introduced these parameters into the finite element software for simulation. We studied the mechanical stability, including interfaces of flexible substrates, flexible electrodes, hole transport layers, perovskite films, electron transport layers, and various functional layers of flexible perovskite solar cells with different device structures. We tried to promote the growth of perovskite grains by the experimental test method and finite element simulation verification of the mechanical properties of flexible perovskite solar cells, and targeted reinforcement method selection and preparation of more flexible electrode materials, such as structural design or thinning treatment of the substrate, and optimizing the treatment of perovskite film. In addition, the improvement effect of the overall mechanical stability of the device was compared by measuring the photovoltaic conversion efficiency after bending cycle times from its original value. Although there are still some problems with the mechanical performance of flexible perovskite solar cells at present, important progress has been made. This not only helps to optimize the mechanical and optoelectronic performance of flexible perovskite solar cells but also promotes the future commercialization of these devices and their widespread application in fields such as wearable devices and electronic textiles. With the continuous advancement of technology and in-depth research, the mechanical stability of flexible perovskite solar cells will be better improved, providing better guarantee for the development of wearable devices and electronic textiles. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Effect of spinneret structure on flow characteristics of polymer melt in melt spinning extrusion process SHEN Zekun, WANG Hui, YING Qifan Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (6): 80-91.   Abstract （73）      PDF （5822KB）（141）       Knowledge map    Save At present, the preparation of highly homogeneous polyester fibers is still a great challenge. The stability of melt flow in melt spinning process and the degree of non-uniformity of radial velocity distribution before extrusion affect the quality of subsequent spinning. In this paper, the flow process of polyester melt in microporous flow channel was studied by numerical simulation. The melt flow characteristics under different microporous structure of spinneret and different inlet velocity were analyzed. The non-uniformity coefficient related to melt velocity was proposed, and the influence mechanism of microporous flow channel structure parameters on the stability and uniformity of melt flow was further clarified. The spinneret structure corresponding to the optimum non-uniformity coefficient of melt flow is pointed out. With the increase of inlet velocity, the variation degree of melt average velocity before and after extrusion first decreases and then increases, and the flow is the most stable at 1 m/s. The time pressure drop is more stable when the inlet velocity ranges from 0.5 m/s to 1 m/s, and is more conducive to the internal stress of the primary fiber. The increase of flow velocity increases the average shear rate in the free section and strengthens the melt orientation. However, when the inlet flow velocity is 2 m/s and 3 m/s, the maximum shear rate in the flow passage reaches 105 orders of magnitude, and the possibility of melt fracture is higher, which is not conducive to the flow stability. The inlet velocity has little effect on the non-uniformity coefficient of melt flow when the spinneret geometry is unchanged. The study shows that the inlet velocity of 1m/s should be selected. When the die length-diameter ratio is 2 and 3, the average velocity before and after extrusion changes less, and the flow is more stable. When the length-diameter ratio is 2 and 3, the pressure drop is more conducive to the internal stress of the primary fiber. When the aspect to diameter ratio is 2,3,4, the average shear rate in the free section is high, that is, the melt orientation degree is high. However, when the aspect to diameter ratio is 2 and 4, there is still a maximum shear rate in the free section, which is easy to lead to melt fracture and is not conducive to flow stability. At the same time, as the melt is always in the fully developed section when the length-diameter ratio is increased, the thicker the boundary layer is, the more uniform the flow will be, and the non-uniformity coefficient will decrease. The results show that 3 spinneret is the best. When the convergence Angle is 54° and 74°, the average velocity before and after extrusion changes less, and the flow is more stable. When the convergence Angle is from 54° to 96°, the pressure drop changes stably with the maximum difference of 14.29%, which is within the reasonable range. The average melt shear rate in the free section decreases with the increase of convergence Angle, and the degree of melt orientation decreases. However, when the convergence Angle is 54° and 74°, the maximum melt shear rate in the center of the flow channel is small, and the melt is not easy to break, and the flow stability is better. At the same time, because the convergence Angle changes the radial velocity component at the entrance of the die, the influence on the flow uniformity is obvious. The results show that the spinneret with convergence Angle of 74° is the best. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Structure and properties of thermoplastic polyamide elastic fibers YANG Qian, WENG Ming, ZHANG Mengru, WANG Xiuhua Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (5): 96-105.   Abstract （73）      PDF （3268KB）（74）       Knowledge map    Save With the improvement of people's living standards, consumer's demand for textile function has shifted from warmth and beauty to more details such as comfort and appropriateness. Among them, elastic clothing has been favored by many consumers due to its shaping and comfort properties. Elastic fibers are synthetic fibers with low modulus, high elongation, and high elastic recovery, and can be divided into intrinsic elastic fibers and form elastic fibers according to their elastic mechanisms. Intrinsic elastic fibers mainly include polyurethane elastic fibers, polyester elastic fibers, and polyolefin elastic fibers. Among them, polyurethane elastic fibers are widely welcomed due to their excellent performance, but they cannot be used as bare yarns and are often used in the form of wrapped yarns with other fibers; form elastic fibers such as bicomponent composite crimped fibers have good elastic recovery rate under small forces, but lack intrinsic elasticity after crimping is eliminated.  Thermoplastic polyamide elastomer (TPAE), a new type of thermoplastic elastomer, is composed of polyamide hard segments and aliphatic polyester or polyether soft segments. Due to the thermodynamic incompatibility between the soft and hard chain segments of TPAE, a microphase separation structure is produced. The hard chain segment of TPAE is rich in crystalline microregions and hydrogen bonds, and its type determines the mechanical properties such as hardness, wear resistance, and chemical resistance of TPAE; the soft segment is located in the amorphous region, and its type determines its low-temperature mechanical properties, flexibility, and elongation. Therefore, the content ratio of soft and hard chain segments and the degree of polymerization have  decisive influence on the physical properties of TPAE. Compared with TPU with excellent elastic recovery rates, TPAE has better thermal stability, with a maximum operating temperature of 175℃ and can be used for a long time at 150℃. Therefore, TPAE is widely used in sports, aerospace, medicine and other fields, but there are fewer research reports on fibers. In order to expand the application of TPAE in the field of elastic fibers, we used TPAE as raw material and prepared TPAE primary silk by using a laboratory horizontal micro extruder, and then subjected it to different stretching multiples and thermal setting temperatures for post-processing. We investigated the effects of stretching multiples and thermal setting temperatures on fibers crystalline orientation, elastic recovery rates, creep resistance, and thermal shrinkage properties. The results show that the stretching and thermal setting process can make the TPAE fibers structure more complete. When the thermal setting temperature is 100℃ and the stretching multiple increases from 2 to 5 times, the elastic recovery rate increases from 91.1% to 94.0% at a fixed extension of 15%, and from 87.2% to 90.7% at a fixed extension of 50%. When the stretching multiple is 4 times, the elastic recovery rate increases from 87.0% to 91.5% as the thermal setting temperature increases from 80℃ to 120℃ at a fixed extension of 15%, and from 88.7% to 90.7% at a fixed extension of 50%, indicating excellent elastic recovery performance.  Based on the test results of the properties of TPAE fibers in this paper, they can be used in different elastic fabrics can be developed to expand their application in the field of fibers. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Design of the secondary fractal spiral spinning needle and its influence on the electric field strength LIU Yanbo, ZHOU Cong, HAO Ming, HU Xiaodong, YANG Bo Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (3): 12-20.   Abstract （73）      PDF （3861KB）（49）       Knowledge map    Save The electrospinning technology is a method to stretch polymer fluids for fabricating nanofibers with diameters of tens to thousands of nanometers under the electrostatic field force, which is simple, widely applicable, and the most promising in the industrialization of nanofibers. At present, the preparation of large-scale electrospun nanofibers includes needle type and needleless type. Compared with the needle electrospinning technology, the needleless electrospinning technology has the advantages of zero needle clogging problem, easy cleaning and significantly higher production efficiency. However, the current needleless electrospinning technology used for the industrial preparation of nanofibers requires a high spinning voltage, which may break down the air, resulting in  great safety hazards, high energy consumption, wide diameter distribution and poor quality of the fibers. The fractal spiral has a self-similarity characteristic, which can improve the uniformity of the field strength of the spinning electrode based on the spiral curve in the fractal structure. The multi-spinning site characteristics of the fractal curve can improve the electric field strength and production efficiency of the electrode, so as to save energy and improve the fiber quality. Firstly, we start with the cylindrical spiral, and obtain the parametric equation of quadratic fractal spiral through space coordinate transformation, establishing the mathematical model of quadratic fractal spirals. Then, the mechanical model of the spinning unit of the fractal spinning needle is established by using the quadratic fractal spiral parameter equation, and multiple spinning units are combined to form an array of spinning needle. Finally, we change the following variables in turn while keeping other variables constant: primary radius, primary pitch, secondary radius, number of secondary disturbing turns and wire radius. By using finite element analysis software, the field strength of the spiral spinning needle with quadratic fractal structure is analyzed and the optimal structure is obtained. It is found that the electric field strength and CV value increase with the increase of the primary radius. The increase of the primary pitch can increase the electric field strength but decrease the CV value. The increase of the secondary radius, the number of secondary perturbations turns and the radius of the wire can lead to a decrease in the field strength value and has few effects on the CV value. Combined with the actual situation, the optimal parameters of fractal structure are determined as follows: primary radius of 80 mm, primary pitch of 60 mm, secondary radius of 10 mm, number of secondary disturbance turns of 40 and wire radius of 0.2 mm. The average electric field strength is 31.8 kV/cm and the CV value of the field strength is 7.53%. The results show that the structure of the spinning needle can effectively reduce the voltage required for spinning, and the energy consumption is low. Moreover, the uniform field intensity will make the electrospun nanofibers evenly distributed, which is of significance to be referred for the actual industrial production of nanofibers. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Stress state and failure mechanism of the composite heald frame with sandwich delamination QIU Haifei Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (5): 12-21.   Abstract （73）      PDF （5405KB）（46）       Knowledge map    Save In the process of weaving production, the heald frame in high-speed reciprocating motion for a long time results in loom vibration, fatigue damage and yarn tension fluctuation, which will not only restrict the loom speed and affect the quality of the fabric, but also easily lead to the failure of the shedding system and shutdown maintenance. This is not conducive to the improvement of the production efficiency and profits of enterprises. In recent years, with the continuous improvement of the automation level of textile machinery, the speed of the new shuttleless loom has reached 1800r/min, and the weft penetration rate has also reached 2000m/s. In this case, the traditional heald frame can no longer meet the development requirements of modern looms. Carbon fiber composites have excellent mechanical and physical properties. Applying them to the design and preparation of new heald frames can effectively improve the working efficiency of the shedding system, and has important practical significance for promoting the high-speed and high-precision development of textile machinery. In this paper, the negative cam shedding was used to as the application object, and by combining the composite laminate theory with the design and preparation of the new heald frame, the asymmetrical fiber layup scheme was constructed through ANSYS/WorkBench software and its ACP module, and a carbon fiber composite heald frame based on sandwich lamination was designed and developed. According to the equivalent mechanical model of the shedding system, the spring return force, the spring return force, cam lifting force and yarn tension acting on the heald frame were analyzed and calculated. The finite element model of the composite heald frame with asymmetric laminate was set up with epoxy carbon fiber prepreg and honeycomb core, and the reinforcement design of crossbeam was realized with aluminum alloy plates. On the basis of the finite element static analysis, the interlaminar normal stress of each fiber layer of the upper and lower crossbeams was calculated and evaluated. Besides, the Tsai-Hill criterion was used as the failure criterion to analyze and predict the failure hazard zone and failure sequence of the heald frame. Through the sandwich laminated composite laminate design, while the lightweight design of the carbon fiber heald frame was realized, the inertia load and vibration noise of the loom could be substantial reduced, which is helpful to solve the speed matching problem between the traditional heald frame and the modern loom. The results indicate that there is a large stress distribution in the connection area between the crossbeam and side beam. Under the same laying process conditions, the fiber interlaminar normal stress of the upper crossbeam is significantly greater than that of the lower crossbeam. Normal stress S1 and S2 are important factors affecting the fatigue strength of the heald frame. Besides, the failure sequence of the fiber layer on single laminate is:1/5/4/2/8/6/3/7. The composite heald frame can better adapt to the production requirements of modern high-speed looms, and can meet the development expectations of advanced weaving technology for new heald frames. By vigorously developing, applying and popularizing such high-performance heald frames, the working defects of traditional heald frames can be fundamentally improved, which is conducive to the technical progress of domestic heald frames. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Characterization and analysis of drying performance of athletic shoes in hot air drying shoe box ZHAO Yugea, b, SHEN Yushenga, b, HE Yiping , LIU Chunyi, ZHOU Liyaa, b, DING Xuemeia, b, WU Xiongying Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (4): 227-235.   Abstract （72）      PDF （4722KB）（40）       Knowledge map    Save In recent years, China's sports shoes industry has maintained rapid development. In 2019, the market size of China's sports shoes industry reached 183 billion dollars, and the average annual compound growth rate from 2014 to 2019 was 20.6%. During daily wearing, sports shoes will produce moisture, odor and other problems due to sweating, which will not only affect the wearing comfort, but also adversely affect the function and health of human feet. Therefore, sports shoes need to be dried in daily care. Because the shoe is of three-dimensional structure with good overall shape stability, and the deformable variable of fabric or clothing is large, the research on the drying process of the whole shoe is different from that of fabric or clothing. In addition, the difference in structure, shape and material composition of sports shoes will have a great impact on the drying performance of sports shoes. We aim to explore the influence of temperature, humidity and air volume on the drying of different types of sports shoes, so as to fill in the blank of quantitative evaluation of the drying performance of shoe care products. Firstly, the drying test method of sports shoes was studied. Three representative sports shoes (running shoes, basketball shoes and clunky sneakers) were selected, and the significant sweating area of sports shoes was humidified according to the sports sweating simulation, and the experiment was terminated when the instantaneous moisture content (M) reached 0.5%. Then, the temperature and humidity changes of shoe box environment and shoe cavity were tested under different temperatures and air volume conditions to explore the impact of temperature and air volume on the drying of sports shoes. According to the experimental results, the optimal design of adding guide tubes was proposed. On this basis, the drying laws of different types of sports shoes were analyzed, and the effects of temperature and air volume on the drying time of different types of sports shoes were discussed. The results show that the drying driving force increases with the increase of the ambient temperature of the shoe box and the hot air volume, but when the ambient temperature of the shoe box increases above 36 ℃, the relative humidity in the shoe cavity and the shoe box environment does not decrease significantly. When the hot air volume is 116.64 m3/s, the increase of the shoe box environment temperature has less influence on the reduction of the relative humidity. For basketball shoes and clunky sneakers, the drying time is more affected by the air volume than the ambient temperature of the shoe box. For running shoes, the drying time is affected by the ambient temperature and air volume of the shoe box. There are various types of shoe care products on the market, but there is still a lack of evaluation standards for their drying performance and a lack of theoretical support for the design of key parameters such as temperature and humidity. The results of this study can provide a theoretical basis and reference for appliance companies in the design of care shoe box parameters and product design, to comprehensively achieve the goal of shortening the drying time of care shoe boxes and to provide differentiated drying parameter settings for different types of sports shoes. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics