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Visualization analysis of research trends in Yi costumes based on CiteSpace XIANG Fengpin, WANG Yahan, LIU Anding Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (12): 90-100.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20241211 Abstract （819）      PDF （11319KB）（37）       Knowledge map    Save In terms of clothing, the Yi costume is different from that of the Han nationality and other ethnic minorities. With unique national style, it enjoys the reputation of "wearing culture and embroidering history". In order to understand the current research status of Yi costumes in China, this paper employed quantitative analysis and qualitative analysis based on CiteSpace visualization software to analyze 508 valid papers in China National Knowledge Infrastructure (CNKI) database. Then research maps were made to explore the research hotspots and research trends of the Yi costume in the past 36 years. The study of Yi costumes in China has been developing for 36 years. In the past, the research on the costume shape, cultural connotation, costume aesthetics and innovative application of different Yi branches has achieved fruitful results. Many scholars choose to explore the Yi costume culture from different perspectives such as culturology, anthropology, art, and history. Although the academic research on the Yi costume is relatively rich, there is a clear regional imbalance and a lack of landmark literature. At present, the research on Yi costumes in China has formed a state of obvious professional division, institutional division and regional division. Most authors and institutions with a significant number of publications come from the field of ethnology and belong to the southwest region. The proportion of high-quality academic achievements published in CSSCI and Peking University core journals is extremely low, with varying quality levels of literature and a lack of influential articles. The research trend of Yi costumes is divided into three aspects: the cultural and historical development of costumes focusing on the category of "clothing"; the inheritance and development of costumes focusing on the category of “culture”; the innovative design and application practice of costumes focusing on the category of “behavior”. It embodies the history and current situation, the process of inheritance and design innovation of the research in the field of Yi costumes. The research hotspots are divided into three stages: from 1993 to 2008, it focused on the historical development and basic attributes of the Yi costume; from 2009 to 2017, the focus shifted from natural attributes to social attributes, exploring the evolution of Yi costumes of different branches from a gender perspective; from 2018 to 2023, the focus was on the social attributes of Yi costumes, emphasizing the inheritance, protection, innovative design and application of Yi costumes. As for future research directions for Yi costumes, firstly, it is necessary to shift research objects to analyze costumes such as military uniforms, Nuo costumes (costumes worn during Nuo rituals), religious costumes, wedding costumes, funeral costumes, priest costumes, official costumes, and chieftain's costumes; secondly, it is necessary to shift the research regions from Sichuan province to Yunnan province, Guizhou province and other provinces, and from domestic regions to oversea regions; lastly; finally, it is necessary to combine with high technology for inheritance and promotion, and integrate resources for digital display. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Optimization of hot pressing process for e-PTFE film laminated composite fabrics using response surface methodology SONG Liwei , JIN Xiaoke, MIAO Yongda, LIU Xinyu, ZHU Chengyan, TIAN Wei Advanced Textile Technology    2025, 33 (04): 33-42.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20250404 Abstract （604）      PDF （15026KB）（50）       Knowledge map    Save Nowadays, people mostly rely on air conditioners to maintain their thermal and moisture balance indoors. This method not only consumes a lot of energy, but also cannot meet the thermal and moisture comfort of the human body in outdoor environments. As a new type of functional textile, thermal and moisture management fabrics can effectively solve this problem. Currently, fabrics for thermal and moisture management are mainly used in hot environments, while there is little research on fabrics for use in cold environments, especially in winter outdoor sports. Thermal and moisture management fabrics should have two properties: on the one hand, they should be able to timely evacuate sweat generated by the human body, and on the other hand, they should have windproof performance. Therefore, laminated composite fabrics made with e-PTFE films that possess windproof, waterproof, and moisture-permeable properties have become a popular choice. To address the issue of fabricating fabrics with thermal and moisture management capabilities for winter outdoor sports, this paper mainly studies the hot pressing process of e-PTFE film laminated composite fabrics. A green and environmentally friendly PA hot melt adhesive film, which exhibits relatively uniform colloidal properties, is selected as the adhesive, and e-PTFE film serves as the intermediate functional film. Firstly, a single factor experiment was conducted to investigate the effects of hot pressing time, temperature, pressure, and adhesive amount on the properties of e-PTFE film laminated composite fabrics in the hot pressing process. The air permeability of the prepared e-PTFE film laminated composite fabrics was≤10 mm/s, indicating windproof performance. Moreover, with the increase of hot pressing time and temperature, the air permeability and peeling strength of the laminated composite fabrics showed a trend of first increasing and then decreasing; as the hot pressing pressure increased, the moisture permeability and peel strength of the fabric gradually decreased; as the amount of adhesive applied increased, the moisture permeability of the fabric gradually decreased, while the peeling strength increased instead. By analyzing the properties of e-PTFE film laminated composite fabrics, the ranges of hot pressing time, temperature, and adhesive amount were determined to be 10‒20 s, 140‒160 ℃, 5‒15 g/m2, and the hot pressing pressure was determined to be 0.5 MPa. Afterwards, a three-factor three-level response surface experiment was designed using the Box Behnken response surface methodology to obtain analysis of variance tables and response surface graphs. From the response surface graphs, it can be seen that the interaction between hot pressing time, temperature, and adhesive amount had a significant impact on moisture permeability and peel strength. Thus, the optimal hot pressing process for e-PTFE film laminated composite fabric was obtained, with a hot pressing time of 15 seconds, a hot pressing temperature of 150 ℃, an adhesive amount of 10 g/m2, and a hot pressing pressure of 0.5 MPa; the air permeability of the e-PTFE film laminated composite fabric obtained under this process condition was 1.96 mm/s, the moisture permeability was 5670.60 g/(m2·24h), and the peeling strength was 2.63 N. This paper studies the relationship between the hot pressing process parameters and the wind resistance, moisture permeability, and peeling strength of e-PTFE film laminated composite fabrics through response surface methodology, and obtains the optimal hot pressing process. At the same time, it lays the foundation for the subsequent use of hot pressing methods to prepare thermal and moisture management fabrics suitable for winter. These research results also provide reference for the preparation of laminated composite fabrics using e-PTFE films in the future. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress of polyurethane materials in the field of new intelligent textile and clothing YAO Yi, JIN Zimin, MENG Ranju, GAO Huiying Advanced Textile Technology    2025, 33 (05): 10-21.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20250502 Abstract （450）      PDF （10428KB）（82）       Knowledge map    Save Polyurethane, abbreviated as PU, is a polymer material formed by the addition polymerization of isocyanates and polyhydric alcohols. It is widely used in the field of textiles. Since DuPont achieved industrial spinning production of PU materials in 1959, PU-based elastic fibers have been significantly applied in in high-end clothing chemical fiber fields such as outdoor clothing, sportswear, swimwear, and casual wear. PU materials are not only equipped with excellent mechanical strength, elasticity and abrasion resistance, but also show good interfacial adhesion ability. In the technological innovation of intelligent textile and clothing, PU materials play an increasingly important role, promoting the development of smart wearable clothing. The various applications of PU materials in the field of intelligent textile and clothing focus on shape memory fibers, conductive sensing fabrics and environmentally responsive textiles. Shape memory PU-based fibers utilize temperature and humidity changes to achieve morphological memory, and are widely used in wrinkle-resistant, non-ironing, and waterproof apparel. Conductive sensing fabrics are prepared through methods such as coating, doping spinning, electrospinning, and blended weaving, achieving integrated electronic skin and health monitoring functions. Environmentally responsive PU-based fabrics, on the other hand, have been applied in clothing that adapts to different environmental conditions by introducing light responsive, pH responsive, humidity responsive, and heat responsive units. This article also explores the application of PU-based multifunctional coatings in flame retardancy, antibiosis, radiational cooling, and leatherette imitation, demonstrating the important role of PU materials in promoting the development of intelligent textiles. In recent years, the continuous innovation of PU-based materials and intelligent machining technology has facilitated the development of intelligent textile and clothing. The biocompatibility, biodegradability, excellent mechanical strength, and good interfacial adhesion properties of PU-based materials have shown great potential in the processing of shape memory fabrics, smart wearable apparel, environmentally responsive fabrics, and multifunctional textile apparel. However, there are still challenges in integrating intelligent PU-based fibers and functional coatings into daily clothing in a low-cost, sustainable, and batch-processable manner. In future research, it is necessary to focus on the industrial validation of PU-based intelligent textiles, comprehensively evaluate their wearability, and accelerate the synthesis of biomass PU and the development of green PU-based textiles to achieve the vision of smart living. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress of spreading technology for large tow carbon fibers ZHU Fanqiang, SHEN Wei, YANG Xiaobing, YAO Jiangweia, ZHAO Defanga, ZHANG Wanhu, ZOU Zhuanyong Advanced Textile Technology    2025, 33 (02): 1-9.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20250201 Abstract （395）      PDF （4110KB）（123）       Knowledge map    Save Carbon fiber-reinforced composites have a series of advantages such as light weight, high strength and high modulus, corrosion resistance, strong designability, and easy integral molding, and are widely used in automobile manufacturing, aerospace, sports, energy, wind turbine blades, and so on. In the entire carbon fiber production chain, the cost of raw silk required for the production of small tow carbon fiber is more than four times the cost of raw silk required for the production of large tow carbon fiber, which somewhat restricts the wide application of carbon fibers. In order to expand the application of carbon fibers, large tow carbon fibers with lower cost can be chosen. In the application of large tow carbon fibers, it is necessary to spread the fibers to improve the wettability of the resin to the carbon fiber tows. The exploration of spreading fiber technology began in the 1970s, but the initial research on this technology was still relatively simple and slowly evolved into a diversified development trend by the end of the 1990s. Entering the 21st century, the carbon fiber production technology has gradually improved, and the spreading technology for tow carbon fibers tends to be increasingly mature. Fiber spreading technology helps large tow carbon fibers maximize the advantages of small tow carbon fibers, fully exerts the reinforcing effect of large-tow carbon fibers, and achieves high efficiency and low cost in the preparation of composite materials. Thus, the spreading technology of large tow carbon fibers is crucial in the preparation and application of composite materials reinforced by carbon fibers. The spreadability of carbon fiber tows can be measured by the change in width of carbon fiber tow before and after spreading. The spreading effect affects the morphology of carbon fiber tow, permeability and structural properties of composites. The commonly used fiber spreading technologies for large tow carbon fibers mainly includes the following six types: multi-roller thermal rolling spreading method, mechanical multi-roller spreading method, acoustic wave-assisted spreading method, electrostatic-assisted spreading method, microbump array-assisted spreading method and air flow disturbance spreading method. Various fiber spreading methods can delaminate large tow carbon fibers into thin layers, and obtain thin-layer carbon fiber bundles with small deviations in physical properties and excellent mechanical properties, making the preparation of composite materials more efficient and cost-effective, and expanding the application fields of carbon fibers. However, different fiber spreading methods have their own advantages and disadvantages. Among them, air flow disturbance spreading technology is the most cost-effective and promising one. In order to reduce the fiber damage caused by fiber spreading and increase the effect of fiber bundle widening, the spreading methods should be diversified. In practical applications, a combination of fiber spreading technologies with less fiber damage should be considered. Furthermore, new-type fiber spreading devices with refined functions and a complete range of types should be designed to promote the continuous iterative development of fiber spreading technology. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress on the structure, technology and performance of braided tubes SHI Zixiang, HU Jiyong Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (12): 113-122.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20241213 Abstract （387）      PDF （8832KB）（68）       Knowledge map    Save Fibrous tubular materials refer to tubular materials produced through textile methods, which possess many advantages such as good fatigue resistance, high strength, and high modulus. They can be widely used in pipelines, pipe shells, bushings, ultra-high temperature insulation pipes, and structural support fields. Fibrous tubular materials generally include woven tubes, knitted tubes, non-woven tubes, and braided tubes. Among them, woven tubes are mainly evolved from double-layer woven fabrics, with low porosity, low elasticity and high mechanical strength; knitted tubes can be prepared by the two methods of weft knitting and warp knitting, with uniform pore structure, high porosity and high elasticity; non-woven tubes focus on the preparation of multi-layer tubes, with a unique fiber arrangement structure, but their pores are uneven, stability is poor and strength is low; the braided tubes can be shaped flexibly, with uniform pore structure, adjustable pores, and high axial strength. Braiding, as an automated manufacturing technology with faster speed and higher efficiency, has been widely applied in various fields. The manufacturing process of braided tubes is relatively simple, and the structure and performance of braided tubes can be changed by changing parameters to meet the needs of different complex product designs. In recent years, research on braided tubes has become increasingly in-depth. For braided tubes, the structure and performance can be changed by changing the braiding material and braiding parameters. Currently, high-performance materials such as medical materials, conductive materials, and high-temperature oxidation resistant materials have been used to prepare braided tubes suitable for different fields, demonstrating the unique advantages and application potential of braided tubes. In terms of braiding parameters, there has been a series of progress in the study of braiding angles and mechanical properties of braiding tubes from theory to application. However, there is a lack of systematic research on the relationship between parameters such as number of braiding layers, number of braiding yarns, and core shaft specifications and the pore structure and performance of braiding tubes. In addition, scholars have studied the impact of new structures such as different pore structures, structures with different braiding angles, mixed yarn structures, and elastic structures on the performance of braided tubes.  Therefore, it is necessary to systematically summarize the relationship between braiding parameters and the structural performance of braided tubes. Explaining the relationship between braiding parameters and the structural performance of braided tubes has practical guiding significance for the subsequent structural design, and can scientifically guide researchers in preparing ideal braided tubes. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress on the application of melt spinning profiled fibers and nonwoven materials WU Wanhua, QIAN Xiaoming, TANG Xiaoyan, LOU Wei, YANG Xueke, LAN Yina Advanced Textile Technology    2025, 33 (02): 10-22.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20250202 Abstract （368）      PDF （24066KB）（62）       Knowledge map    Save To improve the problems of product homogenization, low added value and performance homogenization in the fiber market, it is imperative to conduct relevant research on fiber profilization technology. Melt spinning, an efficient and environmentally friendly fiber production technique, proves suitable for industrial-scale manufacturing of profiled fibers. The melt spinning process's fiber profilization technology is comprehensively analyzed from various perspectives. Firstly, we provide a detailed introduction to the principles of melt spinning and specialized equipment used for producing profiled fibers while emphasizing the pivotal role played by profile spinnerets in the production process. Subsequently, we present an overview of profiled fibers along with enumerating their cross-sectional shapes and characteristic features. Additionally, we describe the fiber profiled technology in detail, focusing on the profiled spinneret method, the bulking and sticking method, the composite fiber processing technology and the micro-nano stacking technology. Furthermore, we present an overview of the recent status and research findings pertaining to these technologies. After the implementation of fiber profiling technology, profiled fibers exhibit distinctive characteristics, rendering them suitable for diverse applications. For instance, in the field of moisture-absorbing and quick-drying materials, Yang et al. developed a moisture-absorbing and quick-drying fabric using polylactic acid as a raw material by using profile spinnerets, and the special-shaped  fibers effectively enhanced the hygroscopic properties of the fabric. In terms of thermal materials, Jia et al. combined polyethylene hollow fibers with polyacrylonitrile nanofibers through electrospinning technology to construct a stable porous structure that exhibits exceptional thermal insulation properties. Furthermore, in the domains of air filtration, oil-water separation, and sound absorption materials, the intricate three-dimensional structure, large specific surface area, good adsorption properties and high porosity inherent in nonwoven materials enable further optimization by incorporating the characteristics of profiled fibers. For example, Zheng et al. employed a combination of spunbond mesh process and thermal phase separation to prepare C-shaped polypropylene spunbond nonwoven material featuring submicron holes, and this material demonstrated excellent reusability performance in oil-water separation. Finally, the development of profiled fibers is prospected. According to the current situation of fiber special-shaped technology, we put forward four research directions. Firstly, it is necessary to expand the application fields of fiber special-shaped technology in combination with nonwoven mesh technology to promote its further development. Secondly, in the future technology development and industrialization trend, it is an important direction to combine and innovate fiber special-shaped technology with nonwoven fixed network technology. Thirdly, it is necessary to research and develop  green polymer slicing to promote the environmental development of fiber raw materials. Finally, profiled fibers are applied in the field of nonwoven wipes, and product performance is optimized to improve competitiveness. By continuously promoting the development of fiber special-shaped technology, more innovation and development opportunities can be brought to various industries. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress on key technologies of clothing recommendation systems LÜ Furong, SHI Yunlong, JING Xiaoning, ZENG Qianyi, ZHU Xuewei, LEI Haiyang Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (12): 134-144.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20241215 Abstract （319）      PDF （2943KB）（50）       Knowledge map    Save As the scale of e-commerce continues to expand, the number and variety of products are rapidly increasing, requiring customers to spend a considerable amount of time to find the products they need. This process of browsing through large amounts of irrelevant information and products undoubtedly leads consumers to be drown in an overload of information. To address this issue, recommendation systems have emerged. Recommendation systems are advanced business intelligence platforms built on massive data mining foundations, designed to provide e-commerce websites with personalized decision support and information services tailored to their customers. The emergence and development of the Internet have triggered a digital storm, gradually applying recommendation technology to various fields such as e-commerce, news delivery, social networking, and music entertainment. Clothing, as an important component of the fashion industry, benefits from the integration of the Internet and the fashion industry, bringing new possibilities for clothing design, production, and consumption. Clothing recommendation, as a significant research direction in the computer fashion field, has garnered widespread attention from fields like computer vision, multimedia, and information retrieval. Compared to traditional offline shopping, online purchase of clothing and accessories is more convenient. A typical recommendation system predicts user interest in a particular item based on given information about the product and the user, as well as interaction history, thereby providing personalized products or services to the user. Clothing recommendation can be seen as a specific application of recommendation systems in the field of e-commerce, but it possesses uniqueness in many aspects. People's demands for personalized clothing quality, styles, and matching are constantly growing, making digital transformation crucial for the clothing industry. Faced with massive clothing data, clothing recommendation systems play a crucial role as a key link, including personalized recommendations, enhancing user experience, and increasing revenue, bringing numerous practical benefits to both users and businesses, and simultaneously driving the industry towards intelligent and efficient development. This article combines the key aspects of clothing recommendation systems and summarizes the general process and related technologies for creating clothing recommendation systems, including data collection and preprocessing, feature engineering, and model construction. It provides a detailed overview of key technologies in both traditional recommendation techniques and deep learning applied in the field of clothing recommendations, analyzing the application and expansion of various algorithms. In terms of application, clothing recommendation systems are widely used in e-commerce platforms and clothing styling recommendation apps, offering users convenient shopping and styling suggestions. Finally, based on the application areas and development trends of clothing recommendation systems, it explores the pressing issues that clothing recommendation systems need to address and future innovative directions. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Analysis of innovation capabilities and development trends of key generic technologies in China's textile industry WANG Pengfei, CHENG Hua Advanced Textile Technology    2025, 33 (02): 23-32.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20250203 Abstract （296）      PDF （4009KB）（55）       Knowledge map    Save Under the requirements of upgrading, reconstruction and high-quality development, China's textile industry is confronted with fierce competition and transformation pressure. Based on the data of 38,295 invention patent applications, this paper takes the key generic technologies of China's textile industry as the research object, analyzes their innovation capability, development trend and technology life cycle by using patent measurement, patent index analysis and Logistic model. The results show that the key generic technologies of China's textile industry are closely related to the technical classifications of D01F, D06M, D01D, D04H, D06P and C08G, involving major categories like mechanical engineering, chemistry, physics and electronic circuits. Among them, technological breakthroughs in new textile materials, such as carbon fiber and aramid fiber, have become an important engine for the high-quality development of the chemical fiber industry and the textile industry. However, the life cycle of key generic technologies in the textile industry has entered a mature stage, and it is expected that the patent growth will have a recession after 2028. After China proposed to transform from a "major textile country" to a "powerful textile country" , green, flexible, intelligent and refined production has become the main trend in the development of key common technologies in the textile industry, and it is also a crucial force to improve technological innovation in the textile industry and promote its transformation and upgrading. Under the influence of the concept of sustainable development and the "Made in China 2025" policy, it is extremely important to optimize the technology innovation ecology and realize the systematic improvement of innovation capabilities of the key generic technologies in the textile industry. And the rapid growth of key common technologies such as mechanical methods of chemical fibers, dyeing or printing of textiles, polymer compounds, vapor-phase or steam treatment of textiles and knitting has become a key force to promote the rapid development of domestic textile industry. At the same time, a number of patents with prominent new technological features, such as the chemical characteristics of artificial filament fibers or carbon fiber equipment, as well as the biochemical treatment of fiber products, have played a positive role in promoting the green development of the textile industry. This paper is helpful to sort out the meaning and concept of key common technologies in the textile industry, as well as to analyze the subject of patent application, the capability of technological innovation and each stage of the technology life cycle. Under the guidance of the innovation-driven development strategy proposed by the Chinese government, the development of science and technology in the textile industry has achieved remarkable results, the innovation ability has been steadily improved, and the key common technologies have received extensive attention from enterprises, academia and local governments. Although the existing research objects involve a number of emerging industries and technologies, there is no research on the integration of key common technologies in the textile industry, including new textile fiber materials, advanced textile products, green manufacturing, intelligent manufacturing and advanced equipment. Therefore, this study attempts to supplement the existing research in terms of research object and research content, so as to potentially fill the gap in current research. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Automatic generation of blue calico's single pattern based on  Stable Diffusion RAN Erfei, JIA Xiaojun, WANG Zixiang, XIE Hao, XU Congyuan Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (12): 48-59.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20241206 Abstract （295）      PDF （15359KB）（53）       Knowledge map    Save  Blue calico is a traditional craft printing and dyeing product in China with a long history. It is famous for its distinctive pattern design style and broken lines. However, the lack of an algorithm for the automatic generation of blue calico's single pattern has hindered innovative research on blue calico's patterns. For this reason, an end-to-end automatic generation method of the single blue calico's single pattern was proposed to realize the automatic generation of blue calico's single pattern.  Our method is based on a diffusion model, which has been very popular recently. It has achieved great success in the field of image generation, and its main architecture consists of VAE (variational autoencoder), CLIP (contrastive language-image pre-training), and Unet. However, due to the high cost of fine-tuning the entire diffusion model, we choose to use improved DyLoRA (dynamic low-rank adaptation) technology to fine-tune the diffusion model. DyLoRA posits that changes in the parameter matrix during model training cannot achieve full rank. Therefore, the parameter matrix that needs to be updated is transformed into two small matrices multiplied so as to reduce the number of updated parameters. However, this parameter decomposition method has no effect on improving rank, so we improved this technique and proposed a new parameter decomposition method. Through this technology, we can fine-tune the diffusion model at an affordable cost to produce blue calico's single pattern. At the same time, in order to control the generation of blue calico, we also introduced the Controlnet network to control the overall layout of the generated single pattern. There is no objective measurement standard in such experiments, so we used the generated image for visual comparison. In the experiment, to demonstrate the superiority of the proposed algorithm, we compared our algorithm with a model based on the CycleGan algorithm and original DyLoRA. The experimental results show that our proposed algorithm can effectively generate better blue calico single pattern than the other two methods, even though its input is only simple text. In the example, it can be seen that the generated blue calico single pattern conforms to the characteristics of broken lines and connected meanings, and is rich in artistic conception. At the same time, we used the ControlNet network to control the overall structure of the generated single pattern.  As a part of national intangible cultural heritage, blue calico has important value and significance in digital inheritance and innovation. This article proposed a method for fine-tuning the diffusion model Stable Diffusion to generate the blue calico's single pattern. This method fully utilized the rich semantic information from the pre-trained Stable Diffusion 1.5 model. Based on this large pre-trained model, the improved DyLoRA fine-tuning method was used to enable the model to learn the style of blue calico's single pattern, and Controlnet was used to limit the structure of the generated content. Finally, we achieved the effect of outputting blue calico's single pattern by inputting appropriate prompt words, and hundreds of sample images were generated according to this method. Next, research will be conducted on the automatic generation of more types and complex blue calico's single pattern. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress on the application of radiation cooling technology in clothing WANG Yiruonan, YAN Jianing, FAN Meixin, ZHOU Guangjie, DAI Hongqin, Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (12): 123-133.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20241214 Abstract （294）      PDF （8937KB）（35）       Knowledge map    Save With global warming and frequent abnormal high temperatures, radiation cooling technology, as an environmentally friendly cooling technology, has shown great potential in regulating thermal comfort. The human body in a specific environment can be regarded as an open system composed of human body, clothing and environment, and radiation plays an indispensable role in human heat dissipation. According to Kirchhoff's law of thermal radiation, radiation heat dissipation can be accelerated by regulating the optical properties of clothing materials and then regulating the heat radiation exchange between the human body and clothing. In the indoor environment, the selection and design of materials enable clothing fabrics to possess high mid-infrared transmission, allowing heat radiation emitted by the human body to dissipate into the environment almost unobstructed through the clothing to the environment. In the outdoor environment, where a single infrared transparent material cannot block the entry of external mid-infrared radiation, the emissivity of the outer surface of the clothing material is regulated to endow the fabric with high mid-infrared emissivity. This allows the fabric to absorb heat and convert it into radiant energy to dissipate heat into the environment. The regulation of infrared radiation or solar radiation in the concept of radiation cooling technology is combined with personal thermal management technology, and a variety of radiation cooling textile materials are derived to regulate human thermal comfort. High transmission cooling materials are led by membrane composite materials, sub-band response cooling materials, cooling materials with cooling/thermal insulation dual function materials and cooling materials with unidirectional moisture conduction characteristics. In order to obtain mass production textile materials with high radiation cooling ability and ideal wearing comfort, researchers have prepared various fibrous materials with high radiation properties through phase separation, particle doping and other methods around the high transmission and high emission cooling mechanism, such as high-permeability fabrics, outdoor high-emission/high-reflection fabrics and all-weather selective emission/high-reflection fabrics. The review found that the development of radiation-cooling materials still faces many challenges. At present, most of the developed membrane materials have problems such as poor air permeability, washable repeatability and wearability, so it is difficult for them to be applied in clothing development. The performance evaluation of radiation-cooling materials mainly includes three methods: spectral measurement, thermal measurement comparison and real person evaluation. Most studies are still in the laboratory stage, the testing of cooling characteristics has not been standardized and unified, and the overall application evaluation of clothing is lacking, so further research and improvement is needed. Currently, most of the radiation-cooled fiber material processes are still relatively complex, and it is difficult to achieve high industrialization and rapid preparation. In order to realize the commercialization goal of materials in the field of textile and garment, continuous optimization of material preparation processes should be conducted in the future in terms of improving the cooling efficiency of materials, enhancing wearability, simplifying preparation processes, optimizing overall clothing evaluation methods, and broadening the practical functions of materials. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress on low-salt and salt-free dyeing of cellulose fiber with reactive dyes ZHANG Hongjuan, WANG Huiqiang, SHEN Chuliang, WANG Jiping, CAO Jingpei Advanced Textile Technology    2025, 33 (04): 13-25.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20250402 Abstract （289）      PDF （1530KB）（105）       Knowledge map    Save When dyeing cotton fibers with reactive dyes in the traditional water bath system, a large number of neutral inorganic salts need to be added to address the charge repulsion between the dye anions and the fibers in order to improve the reactive dye utilization. At the same time, a large amount of alkali must be used to ensure that the reactive dye can fully covalently bond with the fibers. However, the large amount of inorganic salts will lead to super high salt content in the dyeing wastewater, which increases the difficulty and cost of post-processing. At the same time, inorganic salt has brought a great threat to the ecological environment and water resources. Therefore, the low-salt and salt-free dyeing technology has become a hot spot in the current printing and dyeing industry. In order to realize the clean dyeing process of cellulose fibers with water saving, energy saving, high efficiency and ecological protection, researchers have done a lot of work.  In this paper, the problems and limitations in the development of low-salt and salt-free dyeing technology were summarized from the development of new dye molecular structure (original structure modification and cationic reactive dyes), multi-functional substitute salts development and application, low-salt dyeing additives, cellulose modification, and non-aqueous medium dyeing technology. For the traditional water bath system, the modification of the reactive group, water-soluble group or chromophore on the structure of the existing reactive dyes, or the redevelopment of cationic reactive dyes, all have the problems of high cost, few categories, and incomplete chromatography. It is very low to realize salt-free and low-salt dyeing process as well as water saving and emission reduction by using other organic substitute salt, or crosslinking agent. Although widely studied cationic modification technology of cotton fabrics can reduce the dosage of inorganic salts, cationic modification and dyeing cannot be carried out in the same bath. This process requires pre-treatment of cotton fabrics, which has the problem of long process, high production cost, and difficulty in controlling the dyeing evenness. In addition, small bath ratio, electrochemical dyeing, and suspension dyeing have high requirements for dyes and poor universality. As for the new non-aqueous medium dyeing technology, the medium used in the early reported organic solvent dyeing technology is highly toxic and difficult to recover. While, the most reported supercritical CO2 dyeing cannot make cotton fibers swell, resulting in low dye adsorption rate and dyeing depth. In addition, the dyeing process needs to be completed under ultra-high pressure, which has the problems of low operational safety and high equipment cost.  At present, the non-aqueous medium dyeing technology using high boiling point D5 as the medium has achieved remarkable results. But this technology also needs special dyeing equipment (dyeing, recycling, etc.) in the early stage, and the investment cost is high. Therefore, it is imperative to develop an economical, universal, water-saving, and emission-reducing non-aqueous medium dyeing technology in the future. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress on fabric-based wearable ECG electrodes HOU Jinli, ZHENG Junjie, WANG Chenxiao, Xiong Fan, YANG Chaoran, LI Yunfei, FAN Mengzhao Advanced Textile Technology    2025, 33 (04): 92-104.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20250411 Abstract （275）            Knowledge map    Save The initial use of ECG recordings involved opaque carbon electrodes. With the development of magnetic resonance imaging (MRI), carbon fiber electrodes were introduced to reduce image distortion while simultaneously recording ECG and thoracic impedance. Advances in wearable technology have driven the development of novel ECG electrodes based on textile substrates, which combine nanomaterials and wireless systems to achieve high-quality signal acquisition. The application of new materials, such as gecko-inspired conductive dry adhesives and 3D-printed electrodes, has made ECG monitoring more reliable in various environments. Additionally, innovative electrode technologies, such as stretchable conductive fabrics, electrogel electrodes, hydrogel electrodes, fabric microneedle electrodes, and polymer conductive adhesives , have begun to emerge. Selecting suitable conductive materials is crucial in the preparation of fabric electrodes. These materials mainly include conductive fibers, metal nanowires, carbon-based materials, conductive polymers, and conductive inks. Conductive fibers offer flexibility, metal nanowires provide high conductivity, carbon-based materials combine lightness with strength, conductive polymers are easy to process, and conductive inks are ideal for printing complex patterns. By employing techniques such as knitting, weaving, embroidery, and electrospinning, various high-conductivity fabric electrodes can be designed. Woven fabrics offer high strength and stability, making them suitable for creating structurally demanding conductive fabrics. Knitted fabrics have good elasticity and breathability, making them ideal for flexible and close-fitting conductive fabrics. Embroidered fabrics allow for the design of intricate electrode patterns, while nonwoven fabrics are suitable for producing soft and breathable conductive fabrics. Additionally, physical and chemical modifications can enhance conductivity, waterproofing, and wear resistance. Methods such as in-situ polymerization, chemical plating, electroplating, surface spraying, and plasma modification can improve the conductivity and stability of fabrics. Moreover, fabric electrodes must meet testing standards for comfort, breathability, durability, waterproofness and sweat resistance to ensure effective transmission of cardiac signals, guaranteeing long-term use, and maintaining good conductivity and structural integrity even after multiple washings and prolonged use. Research advancements in fabric ECG electrodes include ECG sensor-based electronic textiles, ECG flexible electronic system design, self-powered wearable ECG, and ECG algorithm optimization. ECG sensor-based electronic textiles can integrate various sensors, such as ECG, body temperature, and motion sensors, enabling the simultaneous monitoring of multiple physiological parameters and providing more comprehensive health monitoring data. ECG flexible electronic systems use technologies such as flexible circuits and batteries, making the entire system lighter and more conforming to the body's curves, providing a more comfortable wearing experience. Self-powered wearable ECG systems include energy harvesting, energy management, and real-time ECG monitoring. The ECG algorithm is optimized for the characteristics of wearable devices to improve the accuracy of ECG signal acquisition and data processing efficiency, reduce noise and artifacts, and improve the reliability and accuracy of ECG monitoring. The development of fabric ECG electrodes has not only improved the portability and comfort of ECG monitoring but also brought new possibilities for health monitoring and medical diagnostics. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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The application of odor fingerprinting technology in textile testing WU Wei, WU Jiayao, CHEN Jiahua, ZHENG Jingjing Advanced Textile Technology    2025, 33 (05): 1-9.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20250501 Abstract （267）      PDF （4439KB）（56）       Knowledge map    Save Accurate identification of textile odor is important for regulating the market and monitoring the printing, dyeing and finishing processes of production. Traditional detection methods face many challenges, and odor fingerprinting technology has become a cutting-edge detection technology due to its objectivity, reliability and high reproducibility. This technique not only efficiently detects the volatile components of samples but also facilitates rapid, non-destructive, and accurate analysis of characteristic odorants. This paper reviews the basic principles of odor fingerprinting technology and its application in textile testing, ultimately aiming to provide novel insights and ideas for textile odor detection. Odor fingerprinting technology mainly includes electronic nose technology and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS). Electronic nose, as a bionic detection tool, can fully capture the odor characteristics of the sample and quickly analyze the odor components through the gas sensor array, which is suitable for textile fiber identification, volatile organic gas detection and textile fragrance persistence assessment. GC-MS integrates the advantages of gas chromatography and mass spectrometry, and is widely used in the identification of textile odors, evaluation of deodorization performance, and detection of chemical residues. However, the accuracy of GC-MS depends on sample pretreatment techniques, such as ultrasonic-assisted extraction, accelerated solvent extraction, and headspace solid-phase microextraction. In this paper, the relevant studies and results of these techniques are summarized. In addition, new techniques such as headspace gas-phase ion mobility spectrometry and gas chromatography-olfactometry have been used for textile odor analysis, providing new perspectives for the identification of odor components. Current research in odor fingerprinting technology focuses on the improvement of electronic nose sensor arrays and sample preparation methods for textile volatile compounds. Electronic nose sensors have been enhanced by increasing sensor types and optimizing materials to improve detection sensitivity, while GC-MS is mainly used to detect residual compounds in textiles, such as printing and dyeing auxiliaries, pesticide residues and flame retardants. Although odor fingerprinting technology has been applied in textile odor detection, it still faces challenges such as complex data classification and insufficient characterization of feature information. In the future, there is a need to  further develop the odor fingerprint database, systematically classify textiles, and establish standardized methods to ensure the consistency and comparability of odor data. Due to the complexity of odor formation, it is necessary to comprehensively use multidimensional analysis techniques to comprehensively reveal the chemical composition of odors. With the development of computer technology, a variety of data processing methods can be employed to achieve feature extraction and pattern recognition of large-scale odor fingerprint data, so as to deeply analyze the patterns and characteristics of odor fingerprint data. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Core-shell structured PEDOT:PSS/SA@MXene composite fibers with microwave absorption performance XU Wenyu, WANG Huiya, ZHU Yaofeng Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (12): 10-28.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20241202 Abstract （262）            Knowledge map    Save The booming development of the 5G era has facilitated the rapid growth of electronic information technology, providing efficiency and convenience, but inevitably giving rise to electromagnetic pollution, which poses irreversible harms to human health and the environment. To address this issue, microwave absorption materials (MAMs) have been developed and utilized. In civilian applications, MAMs are commonly used as patches in mobile devices and computers to prevent interference and minimize the electromagnetic radiation leakage. In military contexts, stealth technology enhances the survivability and defensive capabilities of weapons, providing a strategic advantage in modern warfare. Thus, MAMs play a crucial role in both military stealth operations and civilian protection. Traditional MAMs, such as ferrites, conductive carbon black, and magnetic metals, are typically incorporated into polymer matrices as powder fillers. However, they suffer from various drawbacks, including poor mechanical properties, inability to function as load-bearing components, high density hindering integration, and limited flexibility to meet the demands of modern electronics. One-dimensional fiber materials offer promising alternatives due to their lightweight, flexibility, and design versatility. However, most microwave absorbing fibers are produced by using methods such as chemical plating, coating, and impregnation. Addressing these challenges, this paper focuses on integrating modern textile techniques to produce flexible composite fibers with superior mechanical properties and exceptional absorption capabilities. The PEDOT:PSS/sodium alginate@MXene (PA@M) composite fibers with core-shell structure were successfully fabricated by coaxial wet spinning process, to realize the integration of strong and efficient wave-absorbing functions. This paper mainly explored the effects of Ti3C2Tx MXene content on the morphology, mechanical properties, electrical conductivity and electromagnetic characteristics of the PA@M composite fibers. The results showed that because of the interactions between the MXene layers in the core and the PA components in the shell, the PA@M composite fibers exhibited remarkable mechanical properties, with a single-fiber breaking strength reaching (63.13±2.56) MPa and a corresponding elongation at break of (23.28±1.67)%, which can be originated from the interactions between the Ti3C2Tx MXene core layers and the PA shell components. Furthermore, the conductivity of PA@M composite fibers was increased from 0.71 S/m to 3.42 S/m due to the efficient electron transfer between MXene nanolayers. Meanwhile, the component modulation and microstructure design could effectively regulate the electromagnetic properties of the PA@M composite fibers, so that PA@M-1.0 composite fibers achieved the minimum reflection loss of –63.39 dB and effective absorption bandwidth of 3.20 GHz. This research presents a novel and efficient approach for the design and development of microwave absorption fibers. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress of textile materials with negative Poisson's ratio YANG Ruihua, HUA Yuzhu Advanced Textile Technology    2025, 33 (04): 1-12.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20250401 Abstract （258）      PDF （15082KB）（140）       Knowledge map    Save Textile materials with negative Poisson's ratio structures have excellent shear resistance, energy absorption, and fracture resistance, and they are cost-effective compared to other materials with negative Poisson's ratio structures. Therefore, the auxetic textile materials have aroused the interest of many scholars. To further promote the research and application of textile materials with negative Poisson's ratio, this article systematically introduces the different auxetic principles of one-dimensional, two-dimensional, and three-dimensional auxetic textile materials and summarizes their existing problems.  The research on auxetic yarns with a negative Poisson's ratio is based on the helical structure core-spun yarn, and the auxetic effect is achieved by the position exchange between components in the yarn. Its production equipment mainly includes ring spinning machines, weaving machines, hollow spindle, or simple wrapping mechanisms. Due to the influence of the helical structure, the end of the auxetic yarns is prone to untwisting and deformation, resulting in the loss of the auxetic effect. To solving this problem, it is necessary to develop more novel structures and preparation methods. There are two main ways for two-dimensional fabrics to produce auxetic effects: one is to weave fabrics with yarns with a negative Poisson's ratio; the other is to use ordinary yarns and choose appropriate yarn arrangement to weave two-dimensional fabrics with negative Poisson's ratio effect. As the yarn with a negative Poisson's ratio needs to be arranged straight in the fabric to produce a good auxetic effect, it is only applied in auxetic woven fabrics. In addition, knitted fabrics can achieve different negative Poisson's ratio structures through flexible yarn arrangement. The negative Poisson's ratio structures formed are mostly concave and rotating structures. Therefore, when designing and manufacturing two-dimensional fabrics with a negative Poisson's ratio, it is necessary to carefully consider and evaluate factors such as yarn properties and fabric structure design in order to develop optimal auxetic performance for the textile materials. Three-dimensional fabrics are very popular in composite materials, and the addition of auxetic effect further improves the mechanical properties and energy absorption performance of 3D fabrics. Different from the previous two textile materials, three-dimensional auxetic fabrics can produce auxetic effects both inside and outside the plane. Warp knitted three-dimensional auxetic fabrics typically use concave and rotating structures; the three-dimensional auxetic knitted fabric is mainly characterized by the folding structure; the three-dimensional woven auxetic fabric utilizes binder yarns to form a negative Poisson's ratio structure.  In recent years, despite the numerous studies on negative Poisson's ratio textile materials and their extensive potential applications, the exploration of these materials has remained focused on the basic protective properties. Few studies have successfully combined their advantages with other fields and put them into practical use. In addition, integrating the advantages of negative Poisson's ratio textiles into practical production for rational product design is also a bottleneck that needs to be overcome. For example, if special properties such as self-driving, sensing, and thermal management can be endowed to auxetic textiles, it will greatly broaden their development path. In summary, the development of auxetic textiles should focus on exploring new application areas and practical applications. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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A size measurement method for suit collar design based on a SAM model PENG Zhouyan, MA Ling, SU Huimin, PAN Yiting, ZOU Fengyuan Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (12): 83-89.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20241210 Abstract （252）      PDF （8086KB）（24）       Knowledge map    Save As the center of the overall visual effect of a suit, the suit collar is the most crucial factor that affects the overall visual impression. In creating clothing patterns based on design sketches, the judgment of important detailed dimensions like the suit collar often relies on the experience of pattern makers and their repeated trials and errors. Therefore, using computer vision to assist in determining the detailed dimensions of the suit collar is of great significance. However, current research on clothing measurement mainly focuses on measuring the outer contour dimensions, with unsatisfactory results for measuring the internal contour dimensions. Low contrast in the internal contour lines of clothing makes it difficult to extract feature points and complete contours and further results in the difficulty of measuring internal dimensions from images. To address this issue, a method based on the SAM model for segmenting components to extract internal dimensions was proposed. Firstly, the SAM model was used to segment the suit collar components to improve the edge accuracy. Next, the DP algorithm was used to approximate the suit collar components into polygons, and the LSD algorithm and geometric constraints were employed to correct the errors generated during the polygon approximation process. Finally, a structural model of the suit collar was established by incorporating pixel ratios to extract relevant data. Three main conclusions are drawn. First, by segmenting the suit collar components with the SAM model, the masks of lapel, reverse collar and collar stand were obtained. Second, by using the LSD algorithm and geometric constraints to adjust the suit collar component polygon result, a suit collar structural parameter model through linear and parabolic functions was constructed. Third, the main design dimensions of the suit collar were measured, and the results showed that compared with the measurement software, the absolute error of dimensions ranged from 0.02 cm to 0.74 cm, and the absolute error of angles ranged from 0.02 to 0.27 . Compared with the physical measurement, the absolute error of dimensions ranged from 0.05 cm to 1 cm, and the absolute error of angles ranged from 0.06to 0.68. The measurement error met the standards for clothing measurement. This method can provide pattern makers with reference dimensions for the suit collar, enhancing the efficiency of transitioning from design to sample. The dimensions obtained in this study are plan view sizes and not the actual dimensions of the clothing sample. In future studies, the mapping relationship between the two will be further explored to make corrections and adjustments. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Morphological classification and three-dimensional feature analysis of chest and back of adolescent girls in developmental stage DENG Xianfenga, FANG Fanga, b, JIANG Mengmenga Advanced Textile Technology    2025, 33 (01): 65-74.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20250109 Abstract （245）      PDF （6523KB）（25）       Knowledge map    Save For adolescent girls, fitted bras can provide support for the chest and help maintain body balance, while adjusting the shoulder strap to ensure its appropriate length can help maintain the vertical posture of the body and keep natural spinal curvature, so as to reduce the burden on the back and reduce the risk of kyphosis. Therefore, the design of the pattern and structure of the girls' bras relies on the study of the shape of the girls' chest and back. The measurement and analysis of the chest and back and the subdivision of the shape are particularly important. Descriptive statistical analysis and cluster analysis of chest and back related data were carried out on the data of 55 adolescent girls collected manually. Through variable system clustering of 21 direct measurement variables and seven derivative variables, six indexes representing chest and back morphology were extracted and the samples were clustered. The best classification was divided into four categories, and the characteristics of each type of sample were described. The results showed that there were obvious differences among various types of samples, which could well distinguish the chest and back morphology of adolescent girls at different developmental stages. The reverse engineering software Geomagic studio was used to define the feature points and breast boundary of the data. At the same time, the local coordinate system of the breast was constructed. According to the local coordinate system and the ground coordinate system, the breast bottom section, cross section and sagittal section curve were extracted, and the area enclosed by each section curve was calculated for the analysis of chest shape characteristics. According to the ground coordinate system, the triangle ratio of shoulder section was defined for the analysis of back shape. Two adolescent girls and two young women were selected to compare the chest and back shapes. The results showed that although the chest circumference and chest difference of teenage girls were consistent with those of young women, the fullness of their chests was smaller than that of young women. In terms of back morphology, the adolescent girls in the sample did not show obvious kyphosis during the measurement process, but it did not mean that the group would not have kyphosis due to psychological factors during development. The study found that the chest difference of adolescent girls in the development period is small, the chest shape is mainly narrow, the breasts are relatively folded, the back shape is normal, and there are some chest protrusion and kyphosis. There are obvious differences in chest shape among the four types of chest and back shapes. For adolescent girls and young women with the same chest circumference, the fullness of each section of girls' breasts is less than that of young women. In terms of back shape, girls did not show obvious kyphosis during the measurement process. This study analyzes the chest and back shape of girls in the development period, and clearly distinguishes the difference between the chest shape of girls and that of young women, so as to make the design of girls' underwear products more in line with the morphological characteristics of the group. The analysis of adolescent girls' back morphology mainly focuses on whether there is a significant  kyphosis phenomenon, while there is a lack of analysis of other back-related morphology. Therefore, follow-up research can refine the analysis of adolescent girls' back morphology. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Exploring intelligent spinning applications from the perspective of digital twins CHEN Mingliang, , ZHANG Junhui, QIAN Yuhan, LIU Yuxi, LIU Junze, Advanced Textile Technology    2025, 33 (02): 90-99.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20250211 Abstract （242）      PDF （4235KB）（33）       Knowledge map    Save Intelligent spinning, as a key path for the modernization and automation evolution of the textile industry, aims to improve the efficiency, quality, and flexibility of the spinning process by integrating advanced automation technology, information technology, and intelligent control systems. Its development has undergone multiple critical stages from mechanical automation to intelligent control. Initially, innovations in devices such as ring spinning machines and air-jet spinning machines achieved operational automation, significantly boosting production efficiency. Subsequently, the introduction of computer control technology marked the phase of semi-automation and localized intelligence. Entering the stage of intelligent control, the application of information technology, sensor technology, and artificial intelligence enabled real-time monitoring, data analysis, and automatic optimization of the spinning process, driving the industry towards high efficiency, stability, and intelligence. Digital twin technology has become a revolutionary concept since it was first introduced by Michael Grieves in his Product Lifecycle Management (PLM) course in 2002. The core of this technology lies in building a virtual model of physical entities to achieve real-time monitoring, simulation, and optimization of physical entities. With the advent of Industry 4.0, digital twin technology has been widely applied in various industries, including energy, healthcare, urban management, etc. Its application scenarios have expanded from a single device to the entire production line and even the entire supply chain. The combination of data analysis and artificial intelligence technology enables digital twin systems to perform more complex simulations and predictions. In the context of the development of intelligent spinning, the introduction of digital twin technology has brought new opportunities and transformations. This paper explores the implementation strategies of digital twin technology in intelligent spinning, including the architecture and core technical components of the digital twin system in spinning factories. Specifically, it delineates the components of geometric, logical, and decision models in multi-dimensional modeling, along with specific modeling steps. In terms of equipment fault prediction and health management, the paper emphasizes the advantages of integrating digital twin technology with Prognostics and Health Management (PHM) systems, and analyzes methods for achieving consistency between virtual and real data and iterative optimization of models. Furthermore, the integration of Augmented Reality (AR) visualization management systems with digital twin technology creates advanced data presentation methods, detailing the implementation of key technologies such as tracking registration, virtual-real fusion, and human-machine interaction in AR systems. The deep integration of digital twin technology and spinning will bring more efficient, intelligent, and sustainable production methods to the textile industry. In the future, the application of digital twin technology will focus on enhancing precise modeling, refining mechanistic models, improving the accuracy of predictive maintenance, and strengthening data interaction security, to continuously advance its implementation in the spinning field. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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A fabric material recognition method based on spatially partitioned attention NAN Keliang, JIN Yanxia, WANG Songsong, WANG Ting, ZHANG Xiaozhu, ZHANG Zhuangwei Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (12): 58-67.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20241207 Abstract （238）      PDF （6227KB）（36）       Knowledge map    Save To achieve high-precision identification of fabric materials, reduce identification time, and improve production efficiency, it is of great significance to develop a system capable of accurately distinguishing between various fabric types. In this paper, we proposed a fabric material recognition network that incorporates spatial segmentation attention. We utilized the pre-trained DenseNet121 network for experimental dataset selection and combined depthwise separable convolution (DSC) with the spatial partitioned attention module (SPAM) to create a network structure that fulfills the demands of swift recognition and high precision. To obtain the best performance of the network, the dataset was preprocessed by color weakening, data augmentation and region division. We collected a series of fabric images with temporal sequence information from videos showing fabrics being blown by the wind. The RGB values of critical regions were weighted and recalibrated, and random perturbations, flips, and translations were applied to the images, enhancing clarity in critical regions while suppressing irrelevant ones. The Euclidean distance was used to calculate the displacement amount around the same pixel time of the fabric image, and the image region was divided into wrinkled area and flat areas. We obtained 6,000 grayscale images of 224x224 pixels, with 1,000 fabric images per class across six categories. We constructed the proposed mixed depthwise separable convolutional neural network (MDW-CNN) using Python. Firstly, the fabric video was segmented to obtain the fabric image for data preprocessing. Then, the improved convolutional neural network was used for feature extraction, and the ordinary convolution was replaced by the DSC, which enhanced the ability of the network to extract features and reduced the network parameters and calculation. Secondly, SPAM was introduced after each convolutional layer to enhance the saliency features, prevent the loss of too much information of the feature map, and improve the accuracy of the network. Finally, fabric material recognition was achieved through the global average pooling layer and the softmax layer. The 224 px×224 px fabric image was used to complete the experiment on the Intel processor, and the CNN+LSTM, Timesformer, two-stream network, ViViT, YOLOv5, YOLOv8 and the network proposed in this paper were compared. The results show that the proposed MDW-CNN can maintain good recognition accuracy while ensuring a low number of parameters. The network proposed in this study shows strong performance in fabric material recognition, achieving a recognition accuracy of 93.9%. Regarding network parameters, the proposed method reduced them by 3.3%, 48.5%, 56.7%, 29.3%, 26.1%, and 12.7% when compared with CNN+LSTM, Timesformer, the two-stream network, ViViT, YOLOv5, and YOLOv8, respectively. In this study, the improved convolutional network method has been applied to the task of fabric recognition. Experimental results indicate that the improved network offers faster detection speeds, significantly reduces the number of network parameters, achieves a recognition accuracy of 93.9%, and has a detection time of 83.14 ms for a single image. Thus, it achieves real-time performance while maintaining high recognition accuracy.  Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Time-sequential regulation mechanism for the morphology and structure of chenille yarns and their spinning production ZHANG Danni, XUE Yuan, JIN Shulan, LIU Qunhao, LOU Jun Advanced Textile Technology    2025, 33 (01): 21-29.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20250103 Abstract （229）      PDF （8898KB）（23）       Knowledge map    Save In the traditional single-motor-driven spinning mode, the appearance, structure and color of chenille yarns have great limitations. Through the six-axis linkage control of the multi-degree-of-freedom chenille spinning system, the limitations of traditional craftsmanship can be overcome, allowing for time-sequential regulation of single or multiple structural parameters of chenille yarns. Thus, special chenille yarns with temporally changing morphologies and structures can be spun, and the goal of expanding the application field of chenille yarn products can be achieved, so that the core competitiveness of chenille yarn clothing products can be enhanced. Based on the six-axis linkage control chenille spinning system, upgrades and modifications were made to the original chenille spinning mechanical system, drive system, and control system, and independent pile yarn output rollers were added, so that the pile yarn and the core yarn could be outputted according to different laws. Simultaneously, through the independent drive of six motors, various components of the chenille spinning machine, such as the rotating head, pile yarn feeding device, core yarn output device, spacer lifting device, spindle and ring frame lifting device could be independently driven. This enables effective adjustment of structural parameters such as linear density, diameter, pile yarn arrangement density and twist of the chenille yarn, ultimately realizing precise control over the molding form and structural changes of chenille yarns in a time-sequential manner. In addition, based on the chenille yarn spinning platform, the classification of chenille yarns was proposed, and the digital regulation mechanism of structural parameters such as chenille yarns' linear density, diameter, pile arrangement, and twist was analyzed. Based on the digital regulation mechanism of chenille yarns, a digital characterization method of chenille yarns with the temporal variation of morphological structural parameters was proposed, and five primary types of chenille yarns were designed, each exhibiting distinct temporal variations in the morphological and structural parameters. Then, based on the pre-designed chenille yarn structure parameters and the five major types of chenille yarns with different time-sequential distribution laws of morphological and structural parameters, chenille yarns with special morphology and structure, including bubble chenille yarns, chrysanthemum chenille yarns, and big-belly chenille yarns, were designed and spun. The results show that the chenille spinning system based on six-axis linkage control operates well and can realize flexible spinning, which helps to promote the development of chenille fancy yarns with diversified styles, forms and colors, and to broaden its application fields. In summary, the six-axis joint-control multi-degree-of-freedom chenille spinning system, which enables the spinning of chenille yarns with unique morphologies, structures, and color distribution patterns, is applied to the development of woven fabrics, knitted fabrics, tufted fabrics, etc., greatly enriching chenille apparel fabrics and home furnishing products, and bringing a new visual and tactile style, along with a fresh wearing experience, to chenille textiles. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Creep response mechanism of nylon 6 industrial fibers under different loads HE Hao, ZHANG Yingliang, LIU Chenjun, YIN Yaran, CHEN Kang, ZHANG Xianming, Advanced Textile Technology    2025, 33 (01): 1-9.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20250101 Abstract （226）      PDF （4144KB）（46）       Knowledge map    Save Because of their excellent heat resistance, chemical resistance, high strength, and superior elastic properties, nylon 6 industrial fibers are widely used in tire cords, cables, geomaterials, and other industrial fields. Nylon 6 industrial fibers will creep during service under load conditions. The creep process involves changes in their internal microstructure, affecting their service performance. However, the creep properties and structural changes of nylon 6 industrial fibers under different load conditions are still unclear. In this paper, the creep experiments of nylon 6 industrial fibers across various load ranges (20%‒70% average breaking load, ABL) were conducted, and the difference of creep properties of nylon 6 industrial fibers under different load conditions was compared. The microstructure changes of nylon 6 industrial fibers before and after creep under different load conditions were studied by using wide-angle X-ray diffraction (WAXD), small-angle X-ray scattering (SAXS), Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), and birefringence techniques. It can be seen from the creep experiment that the creep deformation rate of the sample increases with the increase of the creep load. When the creep load is not more than 40% ABL, both the elastic recovery rate and creep rate of the sample remain unchanged. However, when the creep load exceeds 40% ABL, there is a decrease in the elastic recovery rate accompanied by an increase in the creep rate. In order to explore the internal structural differences caused by creep at room temperature in nylon 6 industrial fibers under different creep loads, FTIR, WAXD, and SAXS were used to analyze the crystal type transformation, crystallinity, crystallite size, crystal orientation factor, fiber long period and lamellar structure of nylon 6 industrial fibers. Combined with birefringence and dynamic mechanical analysis (DMA), the multilayer structure changes of samples before and after creep tests under different creep loads were studied. The results obtained from FTIR, WAXD, and SAXS indicate that no crystal type transformation occurred during the creep process. Additionally, no significant changes were observed in the crystal structure parameters, including crystallinity, crystallite size, and crystal orientation factor of the nylon 6 industrial fibers. After creep recovery, the changes in the crystal structure of nylon 6 industrial fibers were almost completely recovered. SAXS and birefringence results show that the creep behavior of nylon 6 industrial fibers at room temperature mainly depends on the amorphous structure. When the creep load is low (≤40% ABL), the orientation and thickness of the amorphous zone in the nylon 6 industrial fibers will recover with the removal of the creep load, and when the creep load is high (> 40% ABL), the structure of the crystalline zone and the amorphous zone will recover. The orientation and thickness of the amorphous zone of nylon 6 industrial fibers will increase with the increase of creep load. This is due to the fact that the molecular chains in the amorphous region are oriented along the creep deformation under high creep load, and the molecular chains in the amorphous region with a small degree of orientation are gradually stretched and cannot be completely recovered, and some of the molecular chains in the amorphous region are transformed into oriented amorphous structures, and the thickness of the crystal region increases. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Fabrication and functional study of graphene/polyacrylonitrile skin core structural fibers CUI Ruiqi, SHANG Yuanyuan, LI Juanjuan, ZHANG Hao, SHI Baohui, FANG Kuanjun Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (12): 1-9.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20241201 Abstract （225）      PDF （12472KB）（107）       Knowledge map    Save Graphene, as a new type of two-dimensional carbon nanomaterial, has emerged as a prominent research focus in recent years due to its unique composition and excellent conductivity, thermal conductivity, and mechanical properties. The graphene fiber, a novel carbon-based fiber crafted from graphene layers, inherits the advantages of graphene, such as lightweight and flexibility. In many practical applications, balancing the multiple properties of graphene fibers can be challenging, and it is necessary to choose a suitable spinning method to regulate the chemical composition and structure of graphene fibers and polymers, so as to broaden the application field of graphene-based fibers.  Polyacrylonitrile is a synthetic fiber with good elasticity and weather resistance. It can be used in industrial production through wet spinning and can be combined with graphene incorporation to obtain high-performance composite fibers. Microfluidic spinning technology is a new type of spinning technology developed on the basis of microfluidic chip technology, which is combined with wet spinning technology to build a microfluidic wet spinning system. Microfluidic chip technology enables precise control over the microstructure of spinning solutions and is characterized by a high degree of miniaturization, integration, and cost-effectiveness. This article utilizes microfluidic wet spinning technology to prepare a novel type of conductive fiber with a core-sheath structure. By precisely adjusting the spinning fluid inside the microfluidic chip spinning channel, the spinning fluid exhibits laminar flow characteristics in the microchannel. Through a simple process, the directional control of graphene in the fiber outer layer is achieved, fully utilizing the high conductivity and high specific surface area of the outer layer material, as well as the mechanical properties of the core layer polyacrylonitrile fiber. As the flow rate of the composite fiber layer increases, the arrangement of graphene in the fiber layer gradually becomes standardized under shear stress and compression in the microfluidic chip channel, forming a continuous conductive path. The article studied the morphology, mechanical properties, and electrical properties of skin core fibers. In SEM images and stress-strain curves, compared with pure polyacrylonitrile fibers, the diameter and strength of composite fibers showed a trend of first increasing and then decreasing with the increase of skin solution. The resistance of core-sheath composite fibers decreased and the conductivity increased. When the skin flow rate reached a certain value, due to the aggregation of graphene in microchannels, the conductivity of the composite fibers decreased, and their mechanical properties also declined. It could be found that by applying different voltages at both ends of the composite fiber to test the electrical heating performance of the composite fiber, the highest temperature reached by the fiber and the heating rate per second vary under different voltages. The higher the voltage applied at both ends of the fiber, the greater the maximum temperature reached and the heating rate also increases. The test shows that the core-sheath fibers had good thermal stability and electrical cycling, and the voltage at both ends of the composite fiber could be quickly heated to the expected temperature. Functional heating conductive fibers are poised for long-term development in the textile industry, driven by intelligent production processes and technologies. The study of microfluidic wet spinning of graphene and polyacrylonitrile in this article can provide some reference for the development and application of conductive fibers. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Effects of Ni-Fe-B alloy deposition on graphitization of carbon fiber felt WU Junfang, HAO Peng, PAN Yunqiong, LIU Rong, GU Wei, DAI Jiamu, ZANG Chuanfeng Advanced Textile Technology    2025, 33 (01): 93-101.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20250112 Abstract （224）      PDF （16649KB）（12）       Knowledge map    Save Graphite fiber felt is a key component of proton exchange membrane fuel cells, namely the substrate of the gas diffusion layer, and its good performance is a prerequisite for ensuring the stable operation of the battery. Ensuring the excellent conductivity and chemical stability of graphite fiber felt requires high-temperature graphitization treatment, but the extremely high energy consumption leads to a significant increase in the preparation cost of graphite felt, and the degree of graphitization cannot be rapidly improved, which is not conducive to the improvement of product performance. At present, catalytic graphitization is one of the main methods to reduce energy consumption and improve the degree of graphitization. Metal or B is commonly used to catalyze the graphitization of carbon materials. Transition metals, due to the special electronic configuration of the d-layer, are prone to receiving electrons from carbon, thereby dissolving carbon. At this time, carbon-carbon bonds will be broken by metal catalysts at the interface between disordered carbon and metal, and then carbon will dissolve in solid or molten metal, precipitating graphite carbon. Metal alloys composed of Fe3+and Ni2+ions can significantly reduce the graphitization temperature. At high temperatures, transition metals Ni and Fe are selected as precursors for graphitization catalysts. B can accelerate the graphitization of carbon materials. During the catalytic graphitization process, it can replace the carbon atoms in the hexagonal carbon ring or insert itself into the gaps of the graphite layer, catalyzing the continuous growth of graphite carbon. The catalytic performance of B based catalysts is not sensitive to the particle size of the catalyst and the type of carbon used, which has prominent advantages for metal based catalysts. Although B doping methods have been used for the catalytic graphitization of carbon, with most studies on the catalytic graphitization of carbon by B alone or B with single metals, there is relatively little research on B and alloys. Therefore, this paper introduces B and Ni-Fe alloys with catalytic graphitization properties during the graphitization process of carbon fiber felt. The present study utilized the electrodeposition method to prepare Ni-Fe-B alloy and investigated the effects of B and the alloy on catalytic graphitization of carbon fiber felt. After heat treatment, the influence of different FeSO4·7H2O mass concentrations in Ni-Fe-B alloy on the structure and properties of carbon fibers was studied. The results showed that when carbon fiber felt was electrodeposited in an electrolyte with a FeSO4·7H2O mass concentration of 100 g/L and subsequently heat treated, the graphitization rate could reach up to 90.77%, while the surface resistivity decreased from 1.99 mΩ·cm to 0.82 mΩ·cm, a decline of 58.69%. This indicates that Ni-Fe-B alloy can catalyze graphitization of carbon fiber felt at high temperatures (2,400 ℃), successfully transforming disordered carbon fibers into ordered graphite fibers. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Numerical simulation of the fluid flow pattern in slot die coating process HONG Haobin, ZHANG Hengkuan, ZHANG Xianming Advanced Textile Technology    2025, 33 (04): 75-82.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20250409 Abstract （224）      PDF （6923KB）（100）       Knowledge map    Save The slot die coating is widely utilized in fabric coating and advanced packaging as a predictive coating technology. The thickness distribution and stability of the liquid film formed during the slot die coating process affect the morphology and structure of the cured coating, ultimately influencing the properties of the product. However, due to the coupling of multiple operational parameters, the mechanism that influences film thickness distribution and stability remains unclear. In this study, we conduct numerical simulations of the slot die coating process to investigate film formation. Firstly, relevant governing equations are established, the geometric model and boundary conditions are determined and meshed, the solution method is given and mesh-independence is verified. Subsequently, we verify the accuracy of our numerical simulations by comparing them with experimental data reported in the literature. Finally, we investigate the mechanisms through which operating conditions and fluid properties influence the thickness, uniformity, and stability of the liquid film. The contour plots of liquid phase distribution shows that the thickness of the liquid film increases continuously with the elongation of fluid flow time. When the flow time is 0.1s, the liquid film thickness no longer changes with time, and the transient numerical calculation is completed. To investigate the coating mechanism and flow pattern of slot die coating, different substrate moving speeds, inlet velocities and fluids with different viscosities are set up for numerical calculation, and the role of each factor is analyzed in combination with the film thickness distribution and film-forming stability. It can be concluded from the film thickness distribution graph and velocity contour that: when the substrate moving speed is relatively low, the film-forming flow rate is less than the inlet flow rate, resulting in fluid accumulation at the die lip. Thus the film-forming flow rate and the liquid film thickness increase with the substrate moving speed; when the film-forming flow rate increases to the inlet flow rate, the liquid film thickness reaches the maximum. However, as the substrate moving speed further increases, the film-forming flow rate remains constant and equal to the inlet flow rate, leading to a decrease in liquid film thickness. Within the stable operating window, coating uniformity increases with the increase of the substrate moving speed. As the viscosity of the fluid increases, there is little noticeable change in the thickness of the coating, whereas the uniformity of the liquid film steadily decreases. This is attributed to the increased viscous force, which causes the substrate to entrain more fluid. Consequently, the film-forming flow rate equals the inlet flow rate, resulting in no further changes in film thickness. As the inlet velocity increases, the thickness of the liquid film keeps increasing and the uniformity of the liquid film does not change significantly. The simulation results show that the substrate velocity and inlet velocity are the main factors influencing the film thickness and its uniformity. A stable and uniform coating can only be achieved within a specific range of process parameters; otherwise, coating defects may arise. The analysis of the film formation mechanism of slot die coating provides theoretical guidance for the optimization of coating process parameters. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Modeling and application of sizing yarns quality evaluation based on equal sizing rate technology LU Haojie, JIN Enqi, LI Manli , ZHOU Jiu Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (12): 68-75.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20241208 Abstract （222）      PDF （1489KB）（23）       Knowledge map    Save The current dilemma in evaluating sizing quality lies in the different definitions of sizing yarn quality indicators, the lack of correlation research among indicators, and the limitations of existing evaluation methods. This paper tried to use equal sizing rate technology to detect and control the sizing rate of sizing yarn online. The goal is to achieve a scientific evaluation method that comprehensively reflects the quality of sizing yarns, and to conduct horizontal comparisons between different types of sizing agents. To achieve this goal, a modified Maxwell Garnett (MG) equivalent dielectric constant model was established for the yarn structure, and a capacitive detection system was used to detect the sizing rate of the sizing yarn online. Three types of sizing agents including starch, poly vinyl alcohol (PVA), and modified sophora bean powder were selected to size cotton yarns on a sizing machine. A capacitive sizing rate detection system was set up to ensure every sizing sample have equal sizing rates, by adjusting the sizing process. The entropy weight Technique for Order Preference by Similarity to Ideal Solution (TOPSIS) model was introduced into the comprehensive performance evaluation of sizing yarns by sorting the degree of closeness. By normalizing and standardizing the initial matrix X, a standard matrix of yarn performance was obtained. The initial matrix consists of six sets of samples, with each set containing eight performance indicators. Results of the experiments shows that the relative error of sizing rates between the capacitive detection system method and the desizing method is less than 10%, indicating that the capacitive sizing rate detection system can meet the needs of practical applications. Secondly, under the same conditions of solid content slurry and sizing process, the sizing rate of fine yarns is higher than that of a roving yarns. The information entropy for the hairiness reduction rate is minimum, indicating that this performance indicator is the most important in the overall quality evaluation of sizing yarns. The information entropy for the enhancement rate is -0.86, indicating that it is relatively less important. In the experiment, when the same sizing agent is used, the comprehensive quality of the sizing yarn improves with the increase in yarn fineness, while the sizing rate has a relatively small impact on it. When different types of sizing agents with the same sizing process are used, it is found that the quality of sizing yarn with PVA sizing agents is better than that of sophora bean powder and starch. However, the modified sophora bean powder sizing agent is a green one that can be used as a substitute for PVA and starch. This comprehensive evaluation method based on equal sizing rate technology and entropy weight TOPSIS theory provides a new approach for comprehensive quality evaluation and the development of sizing agents. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Evolution of structural properties of Nylon 66 industrial yarns under different pre-tensioning heat treatment conditions HUANG Xinxin, CHEN Kang, YIN Yaran, ZHANG Xianming Advanced Textile Technology    2025, 33 (01): 10-20.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20250102 Abstract （220）      PDF （4852KB）（35）       Knowledge map    Save With the increasing ratio of radial tires in the tire production, high-strength nylon 66 industrial yarns are widely used as the skeleton material for the production of cord fabrics, rubber hoses, conveyor belts and other products due to their excellent properties such as high strength, good heat and fatigue resistance, great dimensional stability, and particularly their strong adhesion to rubber substrates. At present, there are few reports on the effects of specific processing steps, such as rubber dipping, vulcanization, and heat setting, on the structure and properties of nylon 66 industrial yarns. In order to explore the changes of corresponding relationships between the mechanical properties and microstructure, supramolecular and chemical structures of nylon 66 industrial yarns under short-term heat treatment, this paper simulated different pre-tensioning conditions during impregnation and post-processing of nylon 66 industrial yarns. The structure and properties of nylon 66 industrial yarns were analyzed by SAXS, WAXD and DMA testing methods. The results showed that after heat treatment with a pre-tension ranging from 0.001 cN/dtex to 0.36 cN/dtex for 5 minutes for nylon 66 industrial yarns, there was no significant change in the crystal structure, including grain size, crystal orientation, and crystallinity, as the pre-tension increases during heat treatment. The main effects were on the non-crystalline structure and conformational transitions. Specifically, when the pre-tension was between 0.001 cN/dtex and 0.20 cN/dtex, the transition of the trans-conformation to the gauche-conformation in nylon 66 industrial yarns was inhibited, slowing down the decreasing trend of the orientation degree in the non-crystalline region; when the pre-tension exceeded 0.20 cN/dtex, the rearrangement of molecular chain segments in the non-crystalline region became dominant, leading to an increase in the content of the trans-conformation, an increase in the orientation degree of the non-crystalline region, and an increase in the long period of the lamellar crystals while their diameter decreases. The experiments show that in the short-time heat treatment of nylon 66 industrial yarns, setting the pre-tension within a reasonable range can help reduce the loss of mechanical properties during the heat treatment process. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Influence of the blending ratio on moisture diffusion and perspiration of polyerster/cotton blended plain fabrics ZHANG Caiqian, MENG Shaoni, MA Haiyan Advanced Textile Technology    2025, 33 (01): 30-35.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20250104 Abstract （216）      PDF （2124KB）（12）       Knowledge map    Save The most important factors affecting the moisture diffusion and perspiration performance of blended yarns or fabrics are the types of fibers and the blending ratio. In this paper, the resistance method was adopted to test the moisture diffusion and perspiration performance of summer polyester/cotton blended woven fabrics with different composition ratios. At the same time, the moisture diffusion rate and moisture permeability of the fabric were tested by dynamic moisture management tester and fabric moisture permeability meter, differences in moisture diffusion and perspiration performance of fabrics with different parameters were analyzed, and the performance variation law was obtained. The test objects were ten polyester/cotton plain woven fabrics with different blend ratios. Some metal probes were inserted into the fabric sample as a resistance sensor. A precise volume of 0.2ml of simulated human sweat was measured by using an adjustable pipette and injected into the fabric through a dispensing tube. The data acquisition card was used to monitor the changes in resistance values between the probes after the simulated sweat diffused on the surface and inside the fabric. If the resistance value decreased from the order of GΩ to MΩ, the sweat had transferred to the probe position; if the resistance between the probes increased from the order of MΩ to GΩ, it indicated that the sweat had evaporated. The probes were distributed in the warp, weft, 30°, 45°, and 60° directions of the fabric. By detecting the resistance changes between these probes, the diffusion and evaporation properties of simulated sweat along different directions of the fabric could be obtained. A dynamic moisture management tester was used to test the moisture diffusion velocity of each fabric, and the drop diffusion time was compared with that of the resistance method. The fabric permeability meter was used to test the moisture permeability of the fabric, and the comfort performance of the fabric was evaluated comprehensively. The conclusions are as follows: when the warp and weft yarns of the fabric are made of the same material, the tightness ratio between the warp and weft significantly affects the differences in moisture diffusion property in various directions. As the tightness ratio increases, the differences in sweat diffusion performance along various directions of the fabric also increase, showing a linear relationship; the fiber blending ratio, fabric tightness, and thickness of polyester/cotton blended fabrics have a significant impact on their moisture diffusion and perspiration performance. Due to the strong moisture absorption capability of cotton fibers but relatively weak water transport capability, as the proportion of cotton fibers in the blended fabric increases, the moisture diffusion and evaporation performance deteriorate, leading to longer diffusion and evaporation time for sweat along the fabric. Both the moisture diffusion and perspiration performance of the fabric worsen, and the fabric thickness and tightness also greatly affect its moisture diffusion and perspiration performance; as the cotton fiber content in polyester/cotton blended fabric increases, the moisture permeability of the fabric gradually improves. When the cotton fiber content in polyester/cotton blended fabric exceeds 50%, the moisture diffusion and perspiration performance lead to significant declines. Therefore, to ensure that the fabric has better moisture diffusion and perspiration performance, the cotton fiber content needs to be controlled below 50%. The results of this study can provide reference for the development of polyester/cotton fabrics, and also provide a basis for the selection and use of comfortable summer clothing. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation of recycled DMT by K2CO3 catalytic glycolysis-transesterification and its purification by decompression sublimation method LI Xiaojun, GUAN Jun, LÜ Weiyang , , YAO Yuyuan , Advanced Textile Technology    2025, 33 (02): 59-66.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20250207 Abstract （212）      PDF （5796KB）（46）       Knowledge map    Save Polyester fibers are widely used in textiles and apparel, automotive interiors, civil engineering and other fields because of their excellent mechanical properties, chemical stability and processability. As the application fields of polyester fibers continue to expand and production capacity continues to increase, the cumulative amount of waste polyester textiles is also growing steadily. A large amount of waste polyester textiles are landfilled or incinerated, causing serious waste of resources and environmental pollution. The glycolysis method, which can depolymerize waste polyester into bis(hydroxyethyl) terephthalate (BHET), has mild reaction conditions, good safety and high product yield, but its traditional depolymerization catalysts are based on heavy metal salts such as zinc, manganese, cobalt, antimony and other heavy metal salts. Although their catalytic effects are significant, they can easily cause heavy metal pollution. Furthermore, waste polyester textiles come from a wide range of sources and often contain impurities such as cotton, oil stains and dyes. Moreover, the product BHET is prone to polycondensation under high temperature conditions, makeing it extremely difficult to remove impurities and decolorize, thus limiting this method to the treatment of pure bottle flakes and films and hindering its application in the recycling of waste polyester textiles. Utilizing the inherent advantages of the depolymerization system of the glycolysis method, the waste polyester is depolymerized to produce glycolysis products, which can then be esterified with methanol to produce dimethyl terephthalate (DMT), one of the most promising process routes at present. However, the traditional strong alkaline transesterification catalyst NaOH is easy to cause equipment corrosion, and the conventional recrystallization method of purification is time-consuming and energy-intensive, and consumes a large amount of methanol consumption. In this way, the quality of DMT is difficult to reach high purity grade. Based on the above, glycolysis products of waste polyester textiles were prepared by using K2CO3 as catalyst, and then K2CO3 was used as catalyst for methanol transesterification to transform the glycolysis products into recycled DMT. The recycled DMT containing impurities was purified by decompression sublimation method, and the specific components of the glycolysis products and transesterification products were analyzed in depth. The results indicated that the main component of the glycolysis product was BHET, with trace amounts of BHET oligomer and monohydroxyethyl terephthalate. After optimization, the optimal reaction parameters of the transesterification process were as follows: the reaction temperature was 70 ℃, the reaction time was 118 min, the mass ratio of methanol to the glycolysis products was 2.13:1, and the addition ratio of K2CO3 was 0.94% of the mass of the glycolysis products, the actual yield of recycled DMT under this condition was 88.50%. After three times of purification by decompression sublimation method, impurities such as 2-hydroxyethyl methyl terephthalate, monomethyl terephthalate and dimethyl isophthalate were effectively removed from recycled DMT, and the purity of recycled DMT was as high as 99.89%. The results provide useful reference for the selection of catalysts, the regulation of transesterification reaction parameters and the purification of products in the recovery of waste polyester textiles based on the glycolysis-transesterification method. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Antimicrobial and far-infrared properties of interwoven silk/soybean protein fiber fabrics ZHENG Mengyu , ZHANG Jinzhen, DING Yuanyuan, LEI Bin, ZHU Chengyan , ZHANG Hongxia Advanced Textile Technology    2025, 33 (01): 36-43.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20250105 Abstract （211）      PDF （5414KB）（23）       Knowledge map    Save With the global advancement of environmental protection awareness, the textile industry is facing significant challenges. Traditional textile functional finishing agents are under strict regulation due to their negative impact on the environment. At the same time, consumers' demand for healthy textiles is also increasing, gradually relying on scientific research to bring functionality, health, and applicability to textile and apparel products. The study aimed to develop a healthy, environmentally friendly and multifunctional textile fabric. Mulberry silk was chosen as the warp material, with silk and modified soy protein fiber being used as weft materials. To deeply investigate the impact of different mass fractions of fibers and fabric structures on the performance of the fabric, 15 groups of fabrics with different specifications were woven for trial. Among them, nine groups of fabrics were woven with different weft insertion ratios of the two types of weft yarns with the weft insertion ratios of the soy protein fiber to silk being: 0:1, 1:4, 1:2, 1:1, 2:1, 3:1, 4:1 and 1:0. Six groups were woven with different fabric structures, namely weft backed weave, twill weave, broken twill weave, five-heddle satin, eight-heddle satin, and honeycomb. The fabrics underwent tests for antibacterial properties and far-infrared emission performance, and regression equations were used to analyze the experimental data to reveal the relationship between various parameters and performance. The results show that as the mass fraction of modified soy protein fiber in the weft increases, the antibacterial properties of the fabric gradually enhance. This is mainly attributed to the natural antibacterial components in modified soy protein fibers, oligosaccharides, and saponins. Similarly, as the mass fraction of modified soy protein fibers in the weft increases, the far-infrared emission properties of the fabric also improve. This characteristic helps to improve human microcirculation and increase wearing comfort. Compared with previous literature and research, the conclusions drawn from this study are consistent with previous results and further verify the potential of protein fibers in environmentally friendly and multifunctional textile fabrics. The study has successfully developed a healthy, environmentally friendly, and multifunctional textile fabric. Experimental results indicate that protein fibers, especially plant-based protein fibers, have great potential in functional development. Future research can further explore the application of different types of protein fibers and their combinations in textile fabrics, aiming to develop more diverse and superior-performing eco-friendly fabrics. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Visual bibliometric analysis of smart wearable clothing for the elderly MAO Dan, XIA Tian, XU Huiya, LI Yiran, WEN Run Advanced Textile Technology    2025, 33 (03): 92-101.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20250311 Abstract （209）      PDF （16616KB）（27）       Knowledge map    Save This study systematically reviews the literature in the WOS and CNKI databases using bibliometric analysis. The research first cleaned the data to remove duplicate and irrelevant entries, ensuring the accuracy of the dataset. Next, CiteSpace and VOSviewer were used to visualize the data, providing insights into the research landscape, including author collaborations, institutional contributions, and keyword co-occurrence networks. A comprehensive analysis of the development and trends in the field of aging-friendly smart wearable clothing was conducted. With a view to providing a clearer line of research in this area, the study supplemented the existing research framework on intelligent wearable application scenarios for the elderly and performed a Pearson correlation test between the keyword co-occurrence dataset and the extended theoretical framework, which showed a significant positive correlation, indicated that this research is focused on the application field of aging-friendly intelligent wearable clothing. Bibliometric analysis indicates that the research output on aging-friendly smart wearable clothing has significantly increased, especially in recent years. Core author groups and leading institutions have been identified, mainly located in China, the United States, and South Korea. Keyword analysis reveals that major research focuses on health monitoring functions, electromagnetic endurance, and fabric sensing technologies. Additionally, emerging research areas emphasize user interaction design and privacy protection technologies. These findings highlight the diversity and interdisciplinary nature of the field, encompassing materials science, electronics, healthcare, and data security. This study supplements the existing research framework on intelligent wearable application scenarios for the elderly by identifying key technology areas and their applications. For example, health monitoring technologies include advanced sensors and data analysis for real-time health monitoring. Positioning and navigation technologies utilize Bluetooth, WiFi, and RFID for precise indoor positioning. Integrating flexible fiber optic sensors into fabrics enhances comfort and functionality, while low-power electronic components ensure long-term use of the devices. Data security and privacy protection are crucial for safeguarding sensitive health information, requiring robust encryption methods. The research on aging-friendly smart wearable clothing is driven by the urgent needs of the aging population and has made significant progress. This field demonstrates tremendous innovative potential in improving the quality of life for the elderly through advanced technology. Future research should focus on strengthening interdisciplinary collaboration, leveraging big data and artificial intelligence to enhance user experience, and meeting the specific needs of the elderly. It is necessary to enhance international cooperation to promote the development of aging-friendly smart wearable solutions, so as to ultimately create a more inclusive and supportive society for the elderly. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation and properties of PEDOT:PSS/PVA-coated conductive fabrics WANG Guanghua, HONG Xinghua, ZHU Zijiao, ZENG Xiangsong ZENG Fangmeng Advanced Textile Technology    2025, 33 (04): 122-130.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20250514 Abstract （209）      PDF （12984KB）（51）       Knowledge map    Save To expand the application of polyester fabrics in the field of electronic textiles, it is necessary to endow them with conductivity. Therefore, in this study, the conductive coating was prepared by using PEDOT:PSS (Poly (3,4-ethylenedioxythiophene): polystyrene sulfonate), EG (ethylene glycol) and PVA (polyvinyl alcohol), and the conductive coating was evenly coated on the polyester fabric by "coating‒drying" method to prepare the PEDOT:PSS/PVA-coated conductive fabric. Firstly, the optimal range of coating times was determined to be 8, 10, 12 times by single factor experiment to ensure the uniformity of PEDOT:PSS/PVA-coated conductive fabrics. On this basis, the orthogonal experiment of three factors and three levels was designed, and the optimal combination parameters of EG addition amount, PVA solution addition amount and coating times were obtained. The PEDOT:PSS/PVA-coated conductive fabric prepared under the optimal combination parameters showed good electrical conductivity with a resistance of 4.48 Ω and a volume resistivity of 0.09 Ω ·cm. In terms of laundering durability, mechanical properties and biocompatibility, the test results show that the coated conductive fabric has certain laundering durability, and the resistivity after 10 washes is 1.35 Ω ·cm, which is because PVA makes the conductive coating not easy to fall off. The fast and slow elastic recovery retention rates of the coated conductive fabric are 59.77%‒70.34% and 63.26%‒74.43%, respectively. The average breaking strength and elongation at break increase by 59.73 N (6.15%) and 40.4 N (5.78%), respectively, and the improvement of tensile properties is attributed to the synergistic tensile properties of PVA. Additionally, after four hours of contact with the skin, the coated conductive fabric does not cause redness, swelling, or allergic reactions, demonstrating good biocompatibility. In summary, PEDOT:PSS/PVA-coated conductive fabrics not only perform well in terms of electrical conductivity, but also show excellent properties in terms of laundering durability, mechanical properties and biocompatibility, and have broad application prospects in the field of electronic textiles. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Self-sensing PET-CNT nonwoven interleaf for the integrated interlaminar toughening and structural monitoring of glass fiber reinforced composites ZHONG Zhihao, LIU Shuai, WANG Shouhao, DAI Hongbo Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (12): 29-37.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20241204 Abstract （207）            Knowledge map    Save Glass fiber reinforced composites (GFRC) are a popular, low-cost, and lightweight structural material widely used in green energy fields, such as wind power generation, new energy vehicles, and battery shells. However, delamination damage is a common issue in GFRC structures during service. To improve the out-of-plane mechanical properties of laminated GFRC, various interlaminar materials have been extensively studied and applied. To prevent sudden delamination of GFRC during service, it is crucial to develop an in-situ, real-time, on-line non-destructive monitoring method to monitor the structural health of the system. This will help avoid catastrophic failure caused by sudden delamination. A PET-CNT self-sensing nonwoven composite interleaf was developed by using high-porosity PET nonwoven fabric, introducing functional intercalation into the interlayer relative to GFRC for modification. In addition, the one-step impregnation method produced a PET-CNT nonwoven interleaf with a multi-level network structure of entangling, loose and porous, allowing full impregnation with resin matrix. Upon solidification, a continuous and dense CNT-CNT seepage induction network was formed. The results demonstrated an 86% increase in initial fracture toughness (GIC,ini) and a 48% increase in propagation fracture toughness (GIC,prop) of the modified GFRC, effectively enhancing its mode I interlaminar fracture toughness (ILFT). Real-time acquisition of piezoresistive response and establishment of quantitative mapping relationship between resistance change and crack growth length revealed a 270% gain factor in resistance change rate during the experiment, demonstrating excellent in-situ monitoring sensitivity and accurate efficiency in monitoring the entire process of crack growth in DCB experiment. In this study, a new PET-CNT nonwoven composite interleaf suitable for GFRC was prepared, and its integrated response behavior of interlayer toughening-structure monitoring was analyzed and verified, which proposed an effective and structural optimization method to improve the structural stability of GFRC and the overall robustness of GFRC throughout its life cycle. Additionally, it also provided a new scenario for expanding the industrial application of functional nonwoven materials. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Effects of service quality and sensory experience on the willingness to customized clothing online ZHAO Ying, ZHOU Wei, GAO Yanghu, WEN Run, Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (12): 101-112.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20241212 Abstract （206）      PDF （1702KB）（32）       Knowledge map    Save To explore the mechanism by which online apparel customization service quality influences consumers' willingness to customize apparel, a theoretical model was constructed, with online apparel customization service quality and sensory experience as independent variables. With online clothing customization as the research backdrop, this study combines the literature review and research hypotheses to explore the effects of service quality and sensory experience on perceived value and willingness to customize apparel online. Based on the S-O-R model theory, service quality and sensory experience are regarded as external environmental stimuli (S), perceived value is regarded as an organism (O), and willingness to customize clothing online is a kind of behavioral response (R). Service quality (e.g., ease of use, fulfillment, safety, information and personalized service) and sensory experience (e.g., aesthetics and vividness) are informativeness variables, perceived value is the mediating variable and willingness to customize clothes online is the dependent variable. The questionnaire consists of three parts: first, participants are instructed to experience a clothing personalization system (e.g., Spreadshirt or Cloud Clothing Customization) for 30 seconds, engaging in the shopping process except for the payment step. The second part is the measurement scale, including items on service quality, sensory experience, perceived value and willingness to customize apparel online. The third part of the questionnaire consists of basic personal information. In particular, the 5-point Likert scale is adopted in the second part of the questionnaires from "1 = strongly disagree" to "5 = strongly agree". A total of 310 valid samples were collected from individuals within online customization communities. Descriptive statistical analysis, factor analysis, and regression analysis were adopted to explore the influential factors on the willingness to customize apparel online and optimize the consumers' evaluation items. This study conducted a statistical analysis of the valid data sample, and the proportion of men and women was 44.5% and 55.5% respectively; the main participants were aged 18‒34 years old (95.6%). This study primarily targets the age group of 18‒29 years, who are more sensitive to new technologies and new things that are regarded as the potential customers. The findings show that online customization service quality, including ease of use, fulfillment, security, informativeness, and personalized service, as well as sensory experience, including aesthetics and vividness, have a positive impact on perceived value.; service quality (fulfillment, security and informativeness), sensory experience (aesthetics and  vividness), and perceived value have a positive impact on the willingness to customize clothing online; perceived value positively mediates between service quality (ease of use, fulfillment, security, informativeness and  personalized service) and willingness to customize clothing online, and fully mediates between sensory experience (aesthetics and vividness) and willingness to customize online. The findings of the study enrich the theory of the S-O-R model and explore the influential factors of service quality and sensory experiences on willingness to customize clothing online. It also provides reference for the development of clothing customization technology and the setup of evaluation items.   Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Mesoscopic scale finite element analysis of crack propagation characteristics of carbon fiber fabric composites WANG Sixin, YAN Yongjie, NI Qingqing Advanced Textile Technology    2025, 33 (02): 49-58.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20250206 Abstract （202）      PDF （17537KB）（38）       Knowledge map    Save With the increasing demand for high-performance composites, textile composites have been widely used in aerospace, rail transportation, automotive, and other fields due to their excellent in-plane and interlaminar properties and directional designability. However, with the integrated design and application of textile composites, it is crucial to further elucidate the mechanical properties and crack propagation resistance of textile composites at the micro and mesoscopic scales to further advance the application of this material. Based on the above background, predicting the failure behaviour of composites is important for the structural design of composites. The paper explored the influence law of fabric structure on the mechanical properties of composites, especially to explore the crack propagation resistance mechanism,  established a unilateral crack composite model with different carbon fiber structures at mesoscopic scale using finite element analysis, and elucidated the characteristics and mechanisms of different carbon fiber structures in composites that contribute to its resistance against crack propagation through experimental verification with graphical deformation processing. The results show that the crack propagation energy density of the plain weave structure is 1.69 J/mm3, and that of the 0°/90° ply composites is 1.47 J/mm3, indicating a 15% increase in crack propagation resistance compared to the 0°/90° ply composites. The impact of unilateral cracking on the stress concentration behavior in textile composites was quantitatively assessed. The fracture strengths of the phenoxy resin board, 0°laminated composite, 0°/90° ply structure, and plain weave structure were found to be 31.1 MPa, 32.1 MPa, 249.5 MPa, and 346.1 MPa, respectively, with corresponding stress concentration coefficients of 2.6, 2.5, 12.1, and 7.6. Comparison of the finite element analysis with experimental results from non-contact full-field strain measurements further verifies the alignment between simulated and experimental trends in crack propagation. During crack propagation, the weft yarns in the plain weave composites experience a stress of approximately 700 MPa, whereas those in the 0°/90° ply composites endure a stress of roughly 150 MPa, indicating that the plain weave structure bears 4.67 times the load of the 0°/90° ply structure, and the plain structure with the undulating interlacing of the warp and weft yarns has an even better ability to resist the propagation of the cracks. At the same time, the stress distribution carried by the warp and weft yarns and the load transfer mechanism at the intersection of the warp and weft yarns were clarified, revealing that the one-piece fabric structure exhibits superior resistance to crack propagation. Thus, the composite material model with fiber arrangement established in this paper predicts the crack propagation behavior of textile composites more accurately, and elaborates that the warp and weft yarn crossing structure has a good crack propagation resistance, and thus may provide a method and reference for the structural optimization design of textile composites. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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An automatic replacement method of yarn bobbin based on machine vision CHEN Furong, ZHANG Zhouqiang, LI Cheng, CUI Fangbin Advanced Textile Technology    2025, 33 (03): 33-41.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20250305 Abstract （201）      PDF （10070KB）（55）       Knowledge map    Save In textile production, the replacement of bobbins is an unavoidable key process. Currently, most textile enterprises still employ manual bobbin replacement methods, which poses safety risks and is labor-intensive. The carbon fiber, known as the "black gold" of the 21st century, is a new type of fiber material with a carbon content exceeding 90%. Because of its light weight, high strength, and corrosion resistance, the carbon fiber has been widely used in various fields. In recent years, the government has been actively promoting the development of the carbon fiber industry. Both the “13th Five-Year Plan” and the “14th Five-Year Plan” have explicitly called for the strengthening of research and application of high-performance fibers and composite materials like carbon fibers. In carbon fiber weaving and production, the replacement of carbon fiber bobbins is a critical step. This paper explores methods to achieve automatic bobbin replacement, using carbon fiber bobbin replacement as a case study.  To achieve the intelligent replacement of carbon fiber yarn bobbins, this paper proposes an automatic bobbin-changing method based on machine vision detection and robotic arm collaborative operation, and establishes a corresponding intelligent bobbin-changing system. The system is mainly divided into hardware and software parts. The hardware part includes an image acquisition module, a yarn rack device module, an upper computer module, and a robotic arm control module. The software part is responsible for recognizing the target object in the image and controlling the robotic arm. This paper mimics the yarn rack design of an actual factory and designs a yarn rack device suitable for laboratory settings. First, the image acquisition module is responsible for capturing and saving images; then, the upper computer module integrates the software programs of the entire system, which are used to monitor and determine the status of the yarn bobbin and transmit information to the robotic arm; finally, the robotic arm control module receives signals from the upper computer and completes the bobbin replacement according to the planned path. The image processing part of the system is based on an optimized Hough circle detection algorithm, incorporating the LM algorithm and monocular distance measurement principles to limit the radius range of the yarn bobbin, and adding a concentric circle detection mechanism to achieve more accurate bobbin positioning. In addition, a multi-layer perceptron (MLP) model is used to complete hand-eye calibration, determining the relationship between the image coordinates and the robotic arm base coordinates, thus obtaining the precise position of the robotic arm's end. In the experimental tests, this paper addresses the sensitivity to ambient light and background noise by adding Gaussian noise to the captured raw images and adjusting the brightness (with parameter values of -50, 20, and 50). Through these data augmentation operations, it is verified that the optimized Hough circle detection algorithm possesses strong robustness and reliability, maintaining high detection accuracy in complex environments. Compared with the Random Forest and K-nearest Neighbor algorithms, MLP shows the best accuracy on the X/Y/Z axes, with mean square error controlled within 1.77 mm². The results indicate that this study achieves high precision and effectiveness in the collaborative work of machine vision and robotic arms, providing important technical support for the practical application of intelligent replacement systems. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Effect of twist factor on the structure and properties of rotor-spun polyester-cotton wrapped yarns ZHOU Zhengyu, YANG Ruihua Advanced Textile Technology    2025, 33 (03): 27-32.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20250304 Abstract （200）      PDF （6177KB）（84）       Knowledge map    Save The wrapped yarn is a new structure of yarn that is composed of two or more kinds of fibers. In terms of performance, it can compensate for the deficiencies of single-component fibers and leverage the advantages of composite fibers. Through the composite of fibers, it can make textile fabrics show new styles, high elasticity and special functions that cannot be shown by a single material. The wrapped yarn is a kind of composite yarn that is not only simple and efficient in production but also fully utilizes the characteristics of the fibers, making up for the defects of single-component fibers. The production technology for staple fibers and filament wrapped composite yarns has become increasingly mature, mainly including ring spinning, rotor spinning, hollow spindle spinning and so on. At present, rotor spinning technology is the most mature, widely used, and economically beneficial new spinning method. Since its inception, research in this area has been continuously conducted. However, in recent years, compared with ring spinning and hollow spindle spinning, not much research has been done on rotor spinning wrapped composite yarns, especially the optimization of process parameters for wrapped yarns in practical production. Therefore, this paper selects polyester filament and cotton staple fiber composite spinning polyester-cotton wrapped yarn on the basis of existing materials, and carries out the research and optimization of process parameters of polyester-cotton wrapped yarns. The spinning principle of rotor composite spinning is that under the combing action, the staple fibers are carded into single fibers and enter the coalescing tank. The filament enters the spinning cup through an axial hollow spindle. The high speed rotation of the spinning cup produces a twisting effect that causes the filament and the staple fiber to be entangled into a yarn. It can be seen that twisting plays a key role in the yarn formation process of entangled yarn, and the twist factor is closely related to the structure and quality of the yarn. In order to explore the influence of twist coefficient on the appearance and structure as well as the performance of wrapped composite yarns, and to optimize the process parameters of polyester-cotton wrapped yarns by rotor spinning technology, the article used white cotton staple fiber as the core yarn and 50 D black polyester filament yarn as the outer wrapped yarn. As a result, ten sets of wrapped yarns with fineness of 68.3 tex were spun with twist coefficients in the 385‒655 range. The appearance and structure of the yarns were analyzed, and their tensile properties, hairiness, dryness, defects and residual torque were tested and compared. The results show that the wrapped yarns have spacer color effect; the influence of the twist coefficient on the properties is in accordance with the known theory, which further verifies the scientific validity of the relevant theory. Moreover, the critical twist coefficients of the wrapped yarns are in the 475‒535 range, and the yarn quality is optimal when the twist coefficient of the wrapped yarns is 505 according to the results of the comprehensive indexes. The twist factor influences the appearance, structure, and performance of wrapped composite yarns. Through the experimental research and analysis conducted in this paper, the experimental results align with the theory, further verifying the scientific validity of the relevant theories and providing practical experience for the spinning and performance of rotor-spun wrapped yarns. In the future, it is necessary to continue exploring relevant experimental studies on rotor-spun wrapped yarns, considering the influence of multiple factors on yarn performance, and further adjusting and improving them to promote the innovation and development of rotor spinning wrapped yarns. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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In-situ monitoring of VARTM curing process based on self-sensing C-GNS LIU Shuai, ZHONG Zhihao, WANG Xinyu, DAI Hongbo Advanced Textile Technology    2024, 32 (12): 20-28.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20241203 Abstract （200）      PDF （6667KB）（41）       Knowledge map    Save  Advanced composite materials are widely used in navigation, shipbuilding, automobile and civil industries because of their high specific modulus, strength, corrosion resistance and impact resistance. However, due to the limitations of manufacturing and detection technology, the superior performance of composite materials can not be fully displayed. Common liquid composite molding processes such as resin transfer molding (RTM) and vacuum assisted resin transfer molding (VARTM) encounter difficulties in the application of processing large-scale composite materials. For example, due to the lack of real-time monitoring methods, it is impossible to accurately know whether the resin in the curing process is fully cured and whether there is residual stress, which ultimately results in difficulty in ensuring product quality. In order to guarantee the quality of composite material products and the repeatability of production, it is necessary to conduct in-situ real-time monitoring of the curing process of composite materials. In this study, the ultra-thin, dense and uniform MWCNT conductive induction coating was constructed on the surface of high-porosity glass fiber nonwovens by ultrasonic atomized spraying technology, and the in-situ and real-time monitoring ability of the resin curing process in VARTM molding process was systematically analyzed. The results indicated that the C-GNS showed good response sensitivity (up to 16.77 Pa-1) in the detection process of vacuum calendering process at room temperature. In addition, the C-GNS resistor responded instantly, and could directly map the whole curing process of thermoset epoxy resin under the combined action of temperature field and pressure field and the key points (starting point of curing, starting point of gelation, gel point and complete curing) of phase transition involved in the process. Specifically, during the whole curing process, the resistance gain factor of the sensor reached up to 80%, and the real-time resistivity changes were highly consistent with the resin curing kinetic behavior measured by differential scanning calorimetry, rheology and dielectric curing.  This study provides an effective curing monitoring method (C-GNS) for VARTM processing and manufacturing, and further expands the multi-functional applications of self-sensing nanocarbon composites. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation of SiO2 aerogel aromatic microcapsules/PVA blend fibers and their slow-release properties SONG Peiju, TANG Junsong, GAO Guohong, MA Mingbo, ZHOU Wenlong Advanced Textile Technology    2025, 33 (03): 1-7.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20250301 Abstract （199）      PDF （11502KB）（97）       Knowledge map    Save The aerogel particle is a kind of ultra-light material with a three-dimensional porous network structure and a high porosity within. The porous structure and excellent mechanical stability of aerogel make it an ideal carrier for essence, phase change materials and even drugs, and an ideal material for preparing slow-release microcapsules. To explore the application of aerogel particles in the preparation of aromatic fibers, the SiO2 aerogel microcapsules loaded with essence were mixed into polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) spinning solution, and PVA aromatic fibers were prepared by wet spinning process. The effect of  the addition amount of aromatic microcapsule on the viscosity and dispersion of the spinning solution, morphology, basic properties, and slow-release performance of the aromatic fibers were studied.  It was found that with the increase of the amount of SiO2 aerogel aromatic microcapsules, the viscosity of PVA spinning solution gradually increased, and the microcapsules gradually clustered in the spinning solution. When the addition amount was higher than 7%, the aromatic microcapsules exhibited obvious agglomeration phenomenon in the spinning solution, making the spinning process more difficult. Aromatic fibers were prepared from PVA spinning solution containing 4% of SiO2 aerogel aromatic microcapsules, and the longitudinal morphology of the obtained fibers was basically the same as that of pure PVA fibers. The aerogel aromatic microcapsules were embedded in the fibers and well dispersed. SiO2 aerogel aromatic microcapsules and the prepared aromatic fibers have excellent slow-release properties. After being placed at room temperature for 60 days, their essence release rates were only 22.2% and 13.4%, and their fragrance retention performance was significantly better than that of aromatic microcapsules and aromatic fabrics prepared by conventional polymer embedding method, such as polymethyl methacrylate, melamine/formaldehyde resin and polyurethane. The thermal properties and tensile mechanical properties of PVA fibers decreased significantly after the addition of SiO2 aerogel aromatic microcapsules. This probably resulted from the increase of void space in the fibers caused by aromatic microcapsules; aromatic microcapsules also interfered with orientation arrangement and crystallization formation of PVA fibers, causing a disordered aggregation structure of in the blend fibers. This study is of great significance for the application of aerogel particles in the preparation of slow-release functional microcapsules and their functional fibers. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Error analysis and calibration of a resistance sizing moisture regain tester WEI Yao, WANG Wencong, WANG Jing'an, GUO Mingrui, GAO Weidong, Advanced Textile Technology    2025, 33 (02): 75-82.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20250209 Abstract （199）      PDF （8079KB）（9）       Knowledge map    Save The sizing moisture regain rate is one of the three major indicators of sizing performance. It is the ratio of the weight of moisture in the sized yarn to the dry weight of the sized yarn, expressed as a percentage, reflecting the drying level of the sized yarn. The drying level of sized yarn is not only related to the energy consumption of sizing, but also affects the properties (elasticity, softness, strength, re-viscosity, etc.) of the sizing film, thus affecting the mechanical properties of the sized yarn. To realize the accurate control of sizing moisture regain, modern sizing machines are mostly equipped with a resistance type moisture regain tester to monitor sizing moisture regain online. However, current research mainly focuses on the relationship between yarn raw materials and sizing moisture regain. Other key factors in actual sizing production, such as yarn linear density, coverage coefficient, environmental temperature and humidity, size type and sizing rate, are rarely involved, resulting in some errors in the actual measurement of sizing moisture regain.  To improve the testing accuracy of moisture regain, on the basis of the existing resistance method, the effects of yarn linear density, coverage coefficient and environmental relative humidity on moisture regain were studied. First of all, a set of sheet yarn moisture regain testing device was established in this paper based on the operation simulation of the sizing machine to realize the convenient adjustment of experimental parameters and the accurate collection of test data. Based on the relationship between yarn linear density, coverage coefficient, environmental relative humidity, test moisture regain and real moisture regain, a mechanism model was established, a deviation correction model between moisture regain and various influencing factors was established, and an objective function was established. The deviation correction model was used to improve the detection accuracy of sizing moisture regain. The levels of the three influencing factors were set at 4, 4, and 10, respectively, and a comprehensive experiment was carried out on all the combinations of the three parameters. The collected data were fitted by using the least squares method with the particle swarm optimization algorithm, and the model fitting coefficient was obtained. The goodness-of-fit R² value of the model was 0.8827, and the mean squared error (MSE) was 0.0273, which showed that the mathematical model established in this paper had a good ability to express the experimental data. To validate the aforementioned mathematical model, another batch of samples were prepared and subjected to testing with the same four kinds of yarn linear density, 10 kinds of coverage coefficient and four kinds of environmental relative humidity. The different yarn linear density t, coverage coefficient f, environmental relative humidity h and test moisture regain value W were input into the model to obtain the corrected test moisture regain W' after correction. The average absolute error (MAE) between the uncorrected test moisture regain W and the true moisture regain W1 was 0.3086, while the MAE between the true moisture regain W1 and the corrected test moisture regain W' using the model constructed in this paper was 0.2321, and the error was reduced by 24.8%. Therefore, it can be concluded that the correction effect of the mathematical model constructed in this paper is satisfactory, and the testing accuracy of moisture regain is effectively improved. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Controllable preparation of CA/SF porous fiber membranes and their application in liquid separation LI Bing, LU Yutao, ZHANG Lixia, ZHANG Zuxian, GAO Rongman, XIONG Jie, GUO Fengyun Advanced Textile Technology    2025, 33 (01): 102-109.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20250113 Abstract （197）      PDF （15766KB）（14）       Knowledge map    Save At present, oil spills and oily wastewater discharges have a great negative impact on our natural ecological environment and human living environment, and leaked oily wastewater is also a misplaced natural energy source. Many wastewater treatment devices themselves also have certain negative impacts on the environment. In this case, it is necessary to find an environmentally friendly material for the preparation of filter materials. This paper, with cellulose acetate (CA) and silk fibroin (SF) as raw materials, employed the electrospinning technique to fabricate CA/SF porous fiber membranes. Natural macromolecular fibers, cellulose acetate and silk fibroin are environmentally friendly, and the modification of the two fibers has received extensive research and attention. After degumming, dialysis and freeze-drying, the finished silk fibroin has a broad application prospect as a flexible textile. As the most abundant source of natural macromolecular polymers, cellulose has a rich and diverse structure and has diverse applications, making it suitable as a filter material. Electrospinning is a simple and efficient technique for preparing nanofiber materials. Electrospinning spins molten polymers into nanofibers or ultrafine fibers under the action of a controllable high-voltage electric field. It can be seen from the scanning electron microscopy that smooth, uniform, continuous and bead-free nanofibers were successfully prepared. From the tensile strain-tensile strength curve of the porous fiber membrane, it can be judged that the fiber membrane has basic self-sustaining mechanical properties. Porosity decreases as the proportion of ethanol in the treatment solvent decreases, and porosity increases with increasing temperature and time in the mixed treatment solvent. Through the analysis of air permeability, the results show that when the proportion of ethanol or water in the treatment solution is high, the air permeability of the fiber membrane is high, and the air permeability increases with the increase of temperature and time. Through the analysis of the wettability of the composite porous fiber membrane, as the proportion of water in the mixed processing solvent increases, the water contact angle of the fiber membrane prepared shows an increasing trend.  Porosity, air permeability, and wettability results indicate that the performance parameters of the composite porous nanofiber membrane can be changed by changing the treatment conditions during the post-processing of the fiber membrane. The porous composite nanofiber membrane produced under different treatment conditions of the fiber membrane can facilitate selective permeation and separation of various mixtures, including oil-water and oil-oil mixtures. The results show that the porous CA/SF fiber membranes obtained through simple solution treatments exhibit tunable performance parameters. These membranes, tailored to different performance specifications, hold promise for effective liquid separation applications. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics