Development of fabric style and thermal-moisture comprehensive evaluation system

Abstract

Abstract: People have five senses, namely vision, touch, hearing, smell and taste. In real life, when consumers choose clothing, the senses that express the fabric style are mainly visual, tactile and auditory senses, which is a process of multi-sensory integration. However, the evaluation of fabric style is mostly tactile style, that is, hand feeling. The thermal-moisture comfort of fabrics depends on the permeability, hygroscopicity and thermal conductivity of the fabric. Fabric style and thermal-moisture evaluation are two important aspects of fabric quality evaluation. When selecting fabrics, in addition to considering the style, people should pay attention to the characteristics related to thermal-moisture comfort such as air permeability and moisture absorption of fabrics, so as to ensure that fabrics suitable for specific environments and needs are obtained. The fabric style and thermal-moisture comfort affect each other and restrict each other, which need to be considered comprehensively.
To comprehensively evaluate the fabric style and thermal-moisture comfort, a comprehensive evaluation system of fabric style and thermal-moisture comfort was designed and developed based on the test principle of CHES-FY textile hand feeling evaluation instrument. Combining the multi-sensory style of the fabric and the combination of style and thermal-moisture comfort evaluation, a comprehensive evaluation system of fabric style and thermal-moisture was developed to evaluate the fabric. Five fabrics with obvious differences were selected and tested on standard instruments such as Datacolor 850 desktop spectrophotometer, YG461G automatic air permeability meter, YG606E textile thermal resistance tester, YG601H computer fabric moisture permeability meter, and KES-F7 IIB contact cold and warm feeling tester, and compared with the test results of fabric style and thermal-moisture comprehensive evaluation system. The results show that the fabric style and thermal-moisture comprehensive evaluation system can not only test the multi-sensory style of textiles, but also combine the three senses of vision, touch and hearing, provide a variety of combination information, and enhance the usability of the instrument. The structural characteristics of textiles can also be obtained, and a number of thermal and moisture indexes between different fabrics can be simply tested and compared. Compared with the basic thermal and moisture comfort test results, it is found that the difference between fabrics can be well reflected, which provides a new idea for the design of fabric evaluation instruments.

Key words: fabric style, thermal-moisture comfort, comprehensive evaluation system, multi-sensory style evaluation

摘要： 为综合评价织物的风格和热湿舒适性，根据CHES-FY纺织品手感风格评价仪的测试原理，设计并开发了织物风格与热湿舒适性综合评价系统。该系统由收声装置、电子数码显微镜、图像摄取装置等机械装置、传感器和控制系统组成，综合了视觉、触觉和听觉等感官信息，可对织物进行多感官风格评价与热湿舒适性评价。选择了5块具有明显差异的面料，在Datacolor 850台式分光光度仪、YG461G型全自动透气量仪、YG606E型纺织品热阻测试仪、YG601H电脑型面料透湿仪、KES-F7 ⅡB接触冷暖感试验仪上进行了织物风格和热湿舒适性的测试，并在织物风格与热湿舒适性综合评价系统上进行了试验。结果表明织物风格与热湿舒适性综合评价系统可以测试纺织品的视觉、触觉和听觉风格，能够得到纺织品的结构特征，可以对不同面料之间的多项热湿指标进行测试与对比评价。该系统提供了多种组合信息，为相关领域的研究提供一种新的测试手段。

关键词: 织物风格, 热湿舒适性, 综合评价系统, 多感官风格评价

CLC Number:

TS103

TIAN Yuan, DU Zhaoqun, ZHENG Dongming, ZOU Haochen. Development of fabric style and thermal-moisture comprehensive evaluation system[J]. Advanced Textile Technology, 2024, 32(4): 68-75.

田源, 杜赵群, 郑冬明, 邹昊宸. 织物风格与热湿舒适性综合评价系统设计[J]. 现代纺织技术, 2024, 32(4): 68-75.

References

[1] BINNS H. The discrimination of wool fabrics by the sense of touch1[J]. British Journal of Psychology General Section, 1926, 16(3):237-247.
[2] BINNS H. 56-a comparison between the judgments of individuals skilled in the textile trade and the natural judgments of untrained adults and children[J]. Journal of the Textile Institute Transactions, 1926, 17(12):T615-T641.
[3] PEIRCE F T. 26—the "handle" of cloth as a measurable quantity[J]. Journal of the Textile Institute Transactions,1930,21(9):T377-T416.
[4] KAWABATA S.The Standardization and Analysis of Hand Evaluation[M].2nd ed edition.Osaka: The Textile Machinery Society of Japan,1980.
[5] 周建萍,陈晟.KES织物风格仪测试指标的分析及应用[J].现代纺织技术,2005,13(6):41-44.
ZHOU Jianping, CHEN Sheng. Analysis and application of kawabata evaluation system-fabric (KES-F) [J]. Advanced Textile Technology, 2005,13(6):41-44.
[6] Giorgio Minazio P.FAST-fabric assurance by simple testing[J]. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology,1995,7(2/3):43-48.
[7] 孙晶晶,成玲,张代荣.织物手感风格客观评价方法的比较[J].现代纺织技术,2010,18(2):55-60.
SUN Jingjing, CHENG Ling, ZHANG Dairong. Comparison of objective evaluation methods of fabric handle style [J]. Advanced Textile Technology,2010,18(2):55-60.
[8] PAN N. Quantification and evaluation of human tactile sense towards fabrics[J]. International Journal of Design and Nature, 2007, 1(1): 48-60.
[9] 赵超,刘新金,王广斌.基于KES与PhabrOmeter测试系统的棉织物保形性对比[J].丝绸,2017,54(12):26-31.
ZHAO Chao, LIU Xinjin, WANG Guangbin. Comparative research of cotton fabrics shape preservation based on the KES and PhabrOmeter test systems[J]. Journal of Silk, 2017,54(12):26-31.
[10] 郑冬明,熊巧玲,邹昊宸,等.基于CHES-FY系统的羽绒服面料的触觉风格表征[J].上海纺织科技,2021,49(8):10-12,21.
ZHENG Dongming, XIONG Qiaoling, ZOU Haochen, et al. Method to tactile handle of fabric for down clothing based on CHES-FY system[J]. Shanghai Textile Science & Technology, 2021,49(8):10-12,21.
[11] 田源,郑冬明,潘行星,等.基于CHES-FY风格仪的织物力学触感风格评价[J].毛纺科技,2020,48(8):85-89.
TIAN Yuan, ZHENG Dongming, PAN Xingxing, et al. Evaluation of fabric mechanical tactile sense based on CHES-FY style instrument[J]. Wool Textile Journal,2020,48(8):85-89.
[12] 阳丹,杜赵群,刘贵,等.基于CHES-FY系统的织物触感风格等级评价[J].丝绸,2022,59(10):82-90.
YANG Dan, DU Zhaoqun, LIU Gui, et al. Grade evaluation of fabric tactile style based on CHES-FY system[J]. Journal of Silk,2022,59(10):82-90.
[13] TIAN Y, ZHANG J, ZHENG D M, et al. Thermal and moisture comfort properties of down jacket fabrics[J]. Journal of Donghua University (English Edition),2020,37(05):374-381.
[14] 陈佳慧,梅涛,赵青华,等.热湿舒适性智能织物的研究进展[J].纺织学报,2023,44(1):30-37.
CHEN Jiahui, MEI Tao, ZHAO Qinghua, et al. Research progress in smart fabrics for thermal and humidity management[J]. Journal of Textile Research,2023,44(1):30-37.
[15] 彭福建,李煜炜,周昕妍,等.织物热湿舒适性影响因素及评价方法[J].现代丝绸科学与技术,2019,34(3):32-36.
PENG Fujian, LI Yuwei, ZHOU Xinyan, et al. Affecting factors and evaluation methods of clothing heat-moisture comfort performances[J]. Modern Silk Science & Technology, 2019,34(3):32-36.
[16]GAGGE A P, BURTON A C, BAZETT H C. A practical system of units for the description of the heat exchange of man with his environment[J]. Science, 1941, 94(2445):428-430.
[17]SUN Y，ZHANG M Y，LIU G，et al. Measurement of fabric handle characteristics based on the Quick-Intelligent Handle Evaluation System for Fabrics (QIHES-F) [J]. Textile Research Journal,2018,89: 3374-3386.
[18] TIAN Y A, SUN Y, DU Z Q, ET al. Tactile evaluation of down jacket fabric by the comprehensive handle evaluation system for fabrics and yarns[J]. Textile Research Journal, 2021, 91(11/12): 1227-1238.
[19] 邵亚文,郑冬明,潘行星,等.基于环形风格仪的针织物风格曲线特征参数[J].东华大学学报(自然科学版),2021,47(2):33-39.
SHAO Yawen, ZHENG Dongming, PAN Xingxing, et al. Characteristic parameters of handle curve of knitted fabric measured by ring shaped style tester[J]. Journal of Donghua University (Natural Science), 2021, 47(2):33-39.