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    Impact of virtual idol anthropomorphism on virtual apparel purchase intention
    LUO Linxiaoa, CHEN Lihong b
    Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (4): 268-285.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20230430
    Abstract519)      PDF (1451KB)(4024)       Save
    In recent years, virtual apparel and virtual idols are the hot topics that have emerged. The emergence of virtual apparel has broken the limitations of the traditional apparel industry, and designers can make consumers "wear" exclusive virtual apparel through modeling technology, creating a new opportunity for the future development of the apparel sector. At present, a mature business model has not yet been formed for the domestic virtual apparel industry, while a more mature business model has been formed for virtual idol industry and has strong relevance to virtual apparel. Many virtual apparel designers or studios began to try to use virtual idol endorsement in order to break through. However, there are some problems such as unsatisfactory endorsement effects for virtual idols in the process of apparel brand endorsement, which is mainly due to the inability to meet the audience's demand for their anthropomorphism in the early stage of exploration. Furthermore, there is little research on virtual idol endorsement of virtual apparel and the influence of anthropomorphism on the purchase intention of virtual apparel in the process of virtual idol endorsement of virtual apparel in the existing literature, which is necessary for for virtual idol companies and virtual apparel companies.
    First of all, the concepts of virtual idol anthropomorphism and virtual apparel were redefined, two variables of virtual idol anthropomorphism and parasocial interaction were introduced to explore the impact of the four dimensions of virtual idol anthropomorphism, namely appearance, moral virtue, cognitive experience and conscious emotionality on the purchase intention of virtual apparel, and the intermediary role of parasocial interaction in it is verified, which is groundbreaking in the field of virtual apparel endorsed by virtual idols. Secondly, this paper constructs an extended model of the Technology Acceptance Model, which expands the scope of the applied research of the Technology Acceptance Model. Finally, this paper conducts questionnaire survey based on the extended model, collects relevant data, analyzes its reliability and validity and uses the structural equation model for empirical analysis, which can provide theoretical support and scientific basis for virtual idol companies and virtual apparel companies. The results show that virtual idol anthropomorphism has a significant positive effect on the purchase intention of virtual apparel, in which the moral virtue and cognitive experience of virtual idol have a more significant impact on the purchase intention of virtual apparel than appearance and conscious emotionality; parasocial interaction, perceived ease of use, perceived usefulness and brand attitude have a chain intermediary role in the whole process. 
    According to the experimental results, when operating virtual idol IP, the companies should reasonably design communication events and plot short videos or live content, in order to focus on improving the anthropomorphic cognition of virtual idols in two dimensions: moral virtue and cognitive experience. It is sufficient to reach the market standardization level for the degree of appearance anthropomorphism. Meanwhile, the means to increase the degree of conscious emotionality anthropomorphism is costly but less effective. In addition, the companies can also play a role in increasing the purchase intention of virtual apparel by improving parasocial interaction, perceived ease of use and perceived usefulness.
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    Progress on the regulation of crystallization behavior and phase transition mechanism of poly(hydroxybutyrate-co-hydroxyvalerate)
    MIAO Lulu, DONG Zhengmei, XIE Guoyan, LÜ Shafeng, ZHU Fanqiang, ZOU Zhuanyong
    Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (4): 119-129.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20230414
    Abstract244)      PDF (2679KB)(3462)       Save
    Poly(3-hydroxybutyrate-co-3-hydroxyvalerate)(PHBV), is a kind of biomaterial produced by fermentation engineering technology using starch as the raw material. It is not only environmentally friendly, easy to biodegrade, and pollution-free, but also exhibits similar properties to polypropylene. It holds great promise for the development and application of new bio-based fibers. However, PHBV itself also has problems of high brittleness, poor toughness, and poor thermal stability, restricting its large-scale application in textile and other fields. Considering that the physical and mechanical properties of polymers are closely related to the crystalline condensed structure, this paper therefore introduces the crystal structure and properties of PHBV copolymers, summarizes the methods for regulating the crystallisation behaviour of PHBV, concludes the existing studies on the crystalline phase transition mechanism of PHBV copolymers, and provides an outlook on the application prospects of PHBV materials. 
    The copolymerization units of PHBV are 3-hydroxybutyric acid (HB) and 3-hydroxyvalerate acid (HV), both of which belong to the same orthogonal crystal system. The common methods for regulating the crystallization behavior of PHBV include chemical modification, physical blending modification, external force field induced crystallization, heat treatment regulation and thermal stress stretching. Chemical modifications include block copolymerization modification, graft copolymerization modification, crosslinking modification, end group chain extension and long chain branching, etc., which can increase the main chain of the PHBV polymer or construct the body structure to improve the mechanical properties of the material. Physical blending modification usually blends PHBV with nanoparticles, plasticizers, and other polymers to increase the nucleation rate by heterogeneous nucleation to improve the tenacity of the material. During the processing, PHBV is subjected to external force to induce the orientation of the polymer molecular chain, which may be accompanied by the phase transition of the polycrystalline polymer, thus affecting the crystal structure and crystallization kinetics of the polymer. Heat treatment is conducive to the generation of thermodynamically stable crystals to improve the brittleness of materials. Thermal stress stretching promotes the formation of βchain conformation and increases the strength of the material.
    The β-form of PHB in PHBV is a metastable crystal form formed by stretching, with good elongation of the molecular chain and significantly improved mechanical properties of the material. The thermodynamic stability of α and β crystal forms of PHBV is different, and the two will change under the action of external force strong enough. One-step or two-step stretching is usually used to promote the transformation of α-form to β-form to improve the mechanical properties of materials.
    The regulation of PHBV crystallization behavior and the study of phase transition mechanism can improve the toughness, thermal stability and tensile properties of PHBV materials to some extent. And a more convenient and easy-to-operate way to regulate the crystal form and crystalline structure of PHBV can be explored in the future by considering the synergistic effect between various regulation methods, so as to meet the needs of PHBV industrialization production and continuously promote the expansion of PHBV application market.
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    Research status and progress of textile materials with sound-absorbing and sound insulation functions
    PAN Leilei, FAN Shuo, WANG Yuxuan, ZHANG Hongxia
    Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (6): 216-225.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20230626
    Abstract486)      PDF (2166KB)(3458)       Save
    As a global environmental problem, noise pollution seriously endangers people's physical health and quality of life, affecting sleep, damaging the hearing system, damaging cardiovascular system, causing mental system dysfunction, reducing work efficiency, and affecting children's intellectual development. Therefore, it is crucial to develop materials with sound absorption and sound insulation functions. The porous structure of textile materials endows them with sound absorption performance, making them widely used in the field of noise reduction.
    Textile materials, as porous materials, are based on a combination of sound absorption and sound insulation mechanisms. The sound absorption and sound insulation of textile materials includes three parts. The first part is that the incident sound wave is reflected. The second part is that sound waves enter the pores in the fiber material, causing air vibration and causing sound energy loss. The third part is the multiple reflections of sound waves in the material pores. The biggest advantage of textile materials compared to other flexible materials lies in their processing performance, which can be processed into various shapes, arranged regularly, and distributed evenly. Based on this advantage, textile materials can be combined with other materials to prepare composite noise reduction materials. Materials with sound absorption and sound insulation functions include porous materials, resonant materials, and damping materials. To improve the noise reduction performance of porous textile materials, textile materials are combined with resonance materials and damping materials. Three types of textile composite noise reduction materials can be generated through different construction methods: porous composite noise reduction materials, porous and resonant composite noise reduction materials, and porous and damping composite noise reduction materials. These three composite noise reduction materials can effectively improve the noise reduction performance in the mid to low frequency range and broaden the range of sound absorption frequency bands.
    Porous composite noise reduction materials can form three types of materials: multi-layer structure, sandwich structure, and gradient structure by laminating different materials. Porous and resonant composite materials are composites of fibrous porous materials and resonant materials, including thin plates, perforated plates, and microperforated plates. Among them, perforated plate resonance and microperforated plate resonance are the most commonly used resonant sound absorption methods today. In addition, noise reduction functional fillers are also widely used in textile materials, forming porous and damping composite noise reduction materials.
    The preparation of composite noise reduction materials by combining textile porous materials with other materials is still the research focus of current sound-absorbing and sound insulation functional textile materials. In addition, with the rapid development of technology and the requirements of sustainable green development, the recycling and reuse of waste fibers and the application of new technologies will be the main development trends in the future. The future sound-absorbing and sound insulation textile materials should develop towards the direction of structural diversification, material composites, intelligent methods, and green environmental protection.
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    Preparation and properties of bacterial cellulose nanofiber membranes and fibers
    CHEN Qinqin, XU Zhaomei, MA Tingfang, FU Feiya, LIU Xiangdong
    Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (5): 66-75.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20230508
    Abstract260)      PDF (8110KB)(2202)       Save
    Bacterial cellulose (BC), as a suitable alternative to petroleum-based materials, has many inherent and unique properties such as biocompatibility, biodegradability, breathability and high-water holding capacity. But it is difficult to dissolve in common organic solvents because of its tight intramolecular and intermolecular hydrogen bonds. BC usually exists in the form of thin membranes, and the mechanical properties of BC dried membranes are poor. The current methods for preparing BC nanofiber membranes (NFMs) with BC fibers all inevitably destroy the original structure of BC. 
    In this work, the hydrogen bonding between water and nanofibers in BC hydrogel membranes was weakened by the solvent replacement method, and the layer-by-layer peeling of BC dry membranes was achieved by hot-pressing drying combined with the top-down mechanical peeling method to produce high-strength BC-NFM, and BC fibers could be obtained by further twisting of NFMs. The morphology, structure and physicochemical properties of the BC dry membrane, NFMs and BC fibers were analyzed and studied by characterization means such as scanning electron microscopy, X-ray diffractometer, thermogravimetric analyzer, infrared spectrometer and tensile test. In addition, the strain sensing fiber BC/CNT can be achieved by embedding functional materials such as CNT into NFMs before twisting. The resistance change rate of the BC/CNT fiber obtained by this method can reach 2%. It is shown that the randomly distributed nanofibers on the surface of the BC dry membrane all have a network structure and exhibit a dense structure. As the mechanical peeling step proceeds, the nanofibers on the NFM surface become dispersed and the number of disordered nanofibers on the surface increases, which proves that NMP weakens the hydrogen bonds between the solvent and the BC nanofibers, thus facilitating the mechanical peeling of BC, and in turn leading to the appearance of microfibrils on the NFM surface. The crystallinity of all three mechanically exfoliated NFMs is lower than that of the dry BC membrane, and the crystallinity of 3rd-NFM is the smallest, demonstrating that the NMP treatment does not affect the BC crystal structure. The small-angle scattering patterns show that the arc diameter gradually becomes smaller with the increase of the stripping number, and the 3rd-NFM is the smallest, which proves that the stripping process breaks the hydrogen bonds inside BC and increases the disorder. The intensity of the tensile vibrational peak of the cellulose C−H bond decreases with the increase of the number of peeling, which proves that NMP can break the hydrogen bonds between BC molecules and form new hydrogen bonds with the hydroxyl groups in BC molecules. The NFMs with thickness in the range of 5.0 to 8.0 μm shows a maximum transmission of 23%, water absorption of 2,284% and tensile strength of 338.0 MPa, each of which is higher than that of the BC dry membrane. Compared with the maximum decomposition temperature of the BC dry membrane (359.7 °C), the main weight loss peak temperatures of all the three NFMs are reduced in the range of 333.7 to 339.5 °C, demonstrating the disruption of intermolecular and intramolecular hydrogen bonds of BC by NMP. Surface SEM images of BC fibers show that the 3rd-NFM-fiber has the smallest diameter and the tightest structure, proving that mechanical peeling effectively reduces the diameter of NFMs-fiber and enhances the structural denseness of the fiber. The monitoring of tiny human body movements by BC/CNT conductive fibers fully demonstrates their potential application in smart wearable devices. 
    This paper provides scientific data for the preparation of BC-NFMs by top-down method of mechanical peeling, which provides new ideas for the development of high-strength NFMs.
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    Technical measures for reducing the defects in polyester colored spun yarn
    LIU Jianlin
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (3): 117-121.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.1653547656076-1017342473
    Abstract2042)      PDF (992KB)(1263)       Save
    In order to control the defects in the colored spun yarn, ensure the effect of fabric cover, and stabilize the fabric style, the production process of color spinning is optimized and improved. For example, a new cylinder clothing is selected for cotton carding while adopting flexible carding to reduce fiber damage. Drawing process is used to reduce the number of sliver doubling, reduce the total drafting multiple and drafting irregularity, stabilize the level of sliver and improve the fiber extended parallelization. In the spinning process, it is necessary to properly enlarge the roller spacing, increase the nip spacing block and reduce fine yarn defects. By adopting a series of process optimization measures, the defects of colored spun yarn are greatly reduced, the self-winding production efficiency is enhanced, the cloth quality is improved, and obvious results are obtained. The adoption of new carding equipment and process optimization measures has broken through the concept of "light weight and tight spacing" in traditional process, greatly reduced the defects in color spun yarn, and provided practical experience and innovative ideas for quality management and process research in color spun enterprises.
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    Research progress on preparation of alginate fiber and its application in textiles
    LIU Xiulong, WANG Yunyi
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (1): 26-35.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.1643026386704-1557941982
    Abstract610)   HTML34)    PDF (1169KB)(1129)       Save

    The preparation methods of alginate fiber include wet spinning, electrostatic spinning, microfluidic spinning and centrifugal spinning. Among them, alginate fiber prepared by wet spinning has poor mechanical properties, salt and detergent resistance and dyeing properties, which hinder its large-scale application in the field of textiles and garments. Through fiber modification and functional transformation, the properties of alginate fiber prepared by wet spinning can be improved, and its application scope in the field of textiles and garments can be expanded. From three aspects: alginate fiber preparation, property modification and development of functional alginate fiber for textiles, this paper compared differences among preparation methods of alginate fiber, and summed up modification methods of mechanical properties, salt and washing resistance and dyeing properties of alginate fiber for textiles, types of functional alginate fiber for textiles. Lastly, it was pointed out that the industrial application of the preparation methods and research findings of functional alginate fiber are the direction for future development.

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    Progress on realistic modeling and simulation of weft knitted fabrics
    Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (6): 255-266.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20230629
    Abstract241)      PDF (4498KB)(1056)       Save
    Weft knitted fabrics, as an important type of textile, are widely applied in fashion garments, home textiles, automotive interiors, and other fields. However, traditional design and production methods suffer from inefficiency, resource waste, and discrepancies with the actual products. Conducting realistic modeling and simulation research on weft knitted fabrics not only helps accelerate product development speed but also reduces development costs and minimizes trial and error. Therefore, the development of realistic modeling and simulation techniques for weft knitted fabrics is of great significance.
    The technology for simulating the visual realism of weft knitted fabrics encompasses two aspects: 2D and 3D. The 2D visual simulation technology primarily focuses on the simulation of surface texture and patterns of weft knitted fabrics, accurately representing their color, texture, and lighting effects. The 3D visual simulation technology further advances on the basis of 2D simulation, accurately simulating the three-dimensional effects of weft knitted fabrics. This technology can more realistically reproduce the details and structural characteristics of weft knitted fabrics, thereby enhancing the realism of visual simulation.
    Another key research direction is the physical realism modeling and simulation technology of weft knitted fabrics. This technology simulates the physical characteristics of weft knitted fabrics, such as elasticity, deformation, and fluid behavior, by establishing models based on methods like spring-mass models, mesh models, yarn-level models, or finite element models. By simulating the interaction of weft yarns and the deformation of textile structures, the actual physical behavior of weft knitted fabrics can be predicted more accurately. 
    Due to the nonlinear and complex nature of deformation in weft knitted fabrics, although physics-based simulation methods are capable of capturing the fabric's real behavior, there are still challenges of high computational complexity and low simulation efficiency in complex scenarios. Therefore, it is a key issue in improving simulation speed to optimize simulation algorithms to reduce computational complexity while maintaining accuracy to the greatest extent possible.
    Currently, the development of weft knitted fabrics' realism modeling and simulation technology is progressing in several aspects. Firstly, the simulation effects will become more detailed to accurately reproduce the intricate features of weft knitted fabrics, such as textures, textile structures, and fabric shading effects. Secondly, the technology will focus more on real-time interactivity, enabling designers and users to quickly adjust and preview the visual effects of weft knitted fabrics, thus enhancing the flexibility of design and purchasing decisions. Thirdly, the simulation technology will emphasize the diversification of weft knitted fabric types, including the simulation of various materials, textures, and knitting methods. This will provide a broader range of choices and applications for different fields. Finally, the application scope of weft knitted fabrics' realism modeling and simulation technology will further diversify, providing support for innovation and development in various industries.
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    Research progress of electronic fabrics in the intelligent wearable field
    YIN Yunlei, GUO Cheng, YANG Hongying, LI Hong, WANG Zheng
    Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (1): 1-12.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.1673919703280-753828726
    Abstract2638)      PDF (6315KB)(987)       Save
    With the development of human society and the progress of science and technology, intelligent wearable devices have attracted more and more attention. Among various types of smart wearable devices, electronic fabrics that combine fabrics with electronics are expected to play an essential role in health monitoring, motion monitoring, intelligent medical treatment, and human-computer interaction.
    At present, the application of intelligent wearable devices is becoming increasingly critical in People's daily life. Intelligent wearable devices are gradually developing towards flexibility and miniaturization to meet the characteristics of flexibility, lightweight, and effortless skin fitting. Textiles are one of the ideal choices for intelligent wearables because of their excellent flexibility, lightweight, and air permeability.
    Fabric sensors have excellent flexibility, air permeability, human body fit, and other characteristics and can be easily integrated with clothing. They have been widely used in sports monitoring, health monitoring, and intelligent medical treatment. In addition, fiber-shaped light-emitting electronic devices can be seamlessly integrated with textiles, allowing textile display, sensing, and camouflage applications. Moreover, luminous electronic fabrics play a vital role in transportation, security, anti-counterfeiting, clothing, and aviation. As the application of intelligent wearable electronic devices continues to expand, in order to ensure the sustainable operation of smart wearable electronic devices, it is essential to develop reliable, intelligent wearable power systems and energy management devices.
    Flexibility and comfort based on fabric are essential for intelligent wearable devices. Electronic fabrics can inherit the advantages of light weight, flexibility, air permeability, and a certain degree of ductility of traditional fabrics while having electronic functions. Currently, fabric electronic devices have been widely studied and used in sensing, luminescence, energy conversion, and energy storage. With further development, electronic fabrics may be combined with a variety of smart wearable devices in the future, bringing us a more intelligent life.
    As a new type of intelligent textile, electronic fabrics have excellent potential in the intelligent wearable field. In the future, electronic fabrics with unique structures and various functions are expected to be integrated into people's lives, which can not only meet the needs of daily wear but also serve the emerging fields of personalized health monitoring, motion monitoring, intelligent medical treatment, and human-computer interaction. Although electronic fabrics have made significant achievements in intelligent wearables, the performance, large-scale manufacturing, and unified technical testing standards of electronic fabrics are still the challenges facing the research and application of electronic fabrics in the field of intelligent wearables. Therefore, it is necessary to improve other electronic fabrics' design, function, and performance, so as to accelerate the further development of electronic fabrics in the field of intelligent wearables.
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    Development and application of VR/AR technology in the apparel industry
    FANG Chaoyi, HE Jiazhen
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (6): 166-175.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.1668593499349-1278905393
    Abstract953)      PDF (1283KB)(827)       Save
    To further promote the digital development of the clothing industry and broaden the application of virtual reality (VR) and augmented reality (AR) technologies in the apparel industry, this paper introduces the specific technologies involved in VR/AR and their development trajectories and summarizes the main applications of VR/AR technology. With a focus on the entire chain of apparel industry, VR/AR technology is used to assist fabric design, clothing style and structure design during the design stage; this technology can be applied to simulate the actual usage scenario of the clothing and evaluate the thermal comfort in a virtual scene during the performance evaluation stage; the technology can be used to enhance the visual experience of virtual catwalk show and virtual fitting during the marketing planning stage. Finally, this paper summarizes and looks forward to VR/AR technology from the aspects of hardware and software, and points out that algorithm upgrade and application ecological construction are the future development directions.
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    Structure and properties of thermoplastic polyamide elastic fibers
    YANG Qian, WENG Ming, ZHANG Mengru, WANG Xiuhua
    Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (5): 96-105.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20230511
    Abstract261)      PDF (3268KB)(806)       Save
    With the improvement of people's living standards, consumer's demand for textile function has shifted from warmth and beauty to more details such as comfort and appropriateness. Among them, elastic clothing has been favored by many consumers due to its shaping and comfort properties. Elastic fibers are synthetic fibers with low modulus, high elongation, and high elastic recovery, and can be divided into intrinsic elastic fibers and form elastic fibers according to their elastic mechanisms. Intrinsic elastic fibers mainly include polyurethane elastic fibers, polyester elastic fibers, and polyolefin elastic fibers. Among them, polyurethane elastic fibers are widely welcomed due to their excellent performance, but they cannot be used as bare yarns and are often used in the form of wrapped yarns with other fibers; form elastic fibers such as bicomponent composite crimped fibers have good elastic recovery rate under small forces, but lack intrinsic elasticity after crimping is eliminated. 
    Thermoplastic polyamide elastomer (TPAE), a new type of thermoplastic elastomer, is composed of polyamide hard segments and aliphatic polyester or polyether soft segments. Due to the thermodynamic incompatibility between the soft and hard chain segments of TPAE, a microphase separation structure is produced. The hard chain segment of TPAE is rich in crystalline microregions and hydrogen bonds, and its type determines the mechanical properties such as hardness, wear resistance, and chemical resistance of TPAE; the soft segment is located in the amorphous region, and its type determines its low-temperature mechanical properties, flexibility, and elongation. Therefore, the content ratio of soft and hard chain segments and the degree of polymerization have  decisive influence on the physical properties of TPAE. Compared with TPU with excellent elastic recovery rates, TPAE has better thermal stability, with a maximum operating temperature of 175℃ and can be used for a long time at 150℃. Therefore, TPAE is widely used in sports, aerospace, medicine and other fields, but there are fewer research reports on fibers. In order to expand the application of TPAE in the field of elastic fibers, we used TPAE as raw material and prepared TPAE primary silk by using a laboratory horizontal micro extruder, and then subjected it to different stretching multiples and thermal setting temperatures for post-processing. We investigated the effects of stretching multiples and thermal setting temperatures on fibers crystalline orientation, elastic recovery rates, creep resistance, and thermal shrinkage properties. The results show that the stretching and thermal setting process can make the TPAE fibers structure more complete. When the thermal setting temperature is 100℃ and the stretching multiple increases from 2 to 5 times, the elastic recovery rate increases from 91.1% to 94.0% at a fixed extension of 15%, and from 87.2% to 90.7% at a fixed extension of 50%. When the stretching multiple is 4 times, the elastic recovery rate increases from 87.0% to 91.5% as the thermal setting temperature increases from 80℃ to 120℃ at a fixed extension of 15%, and from 88.7% to 90.7% at a fixed extension of 50%, indicating excellent elastic recovery performance. 
    Based on the test results of the properties of TPAE fibers in this paper, they can be used in different elastic fabrics can be developed to expand their application in the field of fibers.
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    Preparation of a unidirectional water transport Janus composite cotton fabric and its cooling performance
    CHEN Fan, JIN Wanhui, WANG Tao
    Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (5): 190-197.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20230522
    Abstract198)      PDF (6431KB)(789)       Save
    Thermal homeostasis and stable body temperature are crucial for personal comfort and work productivity. The human body maintains a core temperature of around 37 °C through a complex physiological thermoregulation system. However, in extreme conditions such as sports, military, firefighting, and medical care, the body's thermoregulation capacity is easily overwhelmed, leading to heat stress and physiological harm. Traditional textiles with inadequate thermal and moisture management performance can result in heat and sweat accumulation on the skin surface. Cooling by external equipment such as fans and air conditioners is commonly used to achieve thermal comfort but consumes considerable energy and imposes a burden on sustainable energy. 
    While researchers have made progress in developing Janus nano-fibrous membranes that offer excellent unidirectional water transport and cooling performance, there are still significant challenges to overcome. One of the primary obstacles is the lack of interlayer forces in these membranes, which can cause them to peel off easily and trap liquid between the layers during unidirectional water transport, resulting in a loss of the material's unidirectional water transport ability. Moreover, the large-scale fabrication of electro-sprayed nano-fibrous membranes has not yet been achieved, which limits their practical applications. Addressing these issues is critical to developing effective and practical thermal and moisture management textiles that can deliver superior performance. As a result of these challenges, there is an increasing demand for the development of simpler and more practical thermal and moisture management textiles that can overcome the limitations of existing materials and provide better performance. In this work, a unidirectional water transport Janus composite cotton fabric was prepared for personal cooling, utilizing its two functions of unidirectional sweat expulsion and thermal conduction to synergistically cool the human body. The Janus structure was constructed by using a screen printing technique combined with a spray-coating method to load SiC NPs/PVA coating and PDMS coating on both sides of the cotton fabric. The wetting behavior, unidirectional water transport, and thermal conduction performance of the Janus composite cotton fabric were characterized after the static water contact angle test, drip diffusion experiment, and heating platform warming experiment. The Janus composite cotton fabric also showed good cooling effect in outdoor environments.
    Nanoengineered textiles can intelligently improve personal comfort in severe changeable environments and promote sustainable development while alleviating potential health risks from global warming. The results of the research on the unidirectional water transport Janus composite cotton fabric for personal cooling have a wide range of applications in the field of thermal and moisture management textiles for outdoors.
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    Thought and practice on the high-quality development of the modern textile industry in Zhejiang province lad by group standards
    YE Xiangyu, LIU Furong, CONG Mingfang, LIANG Huifang, YUAN Haomin, LOU Caiying
    Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (6): 110-116.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20230613
    Abstract237)      PDF (1575KB)(756)       Save
    Group standards refer to the voluntary adoption of social organizations established by law to meet the needs of market and innovation. The problems of single supply system, formulation cycle and slow update of national and industry standards in the textile industry cannot meet the rapid development of the industry and market. Group standards have become an important starting point for promoting standardization reform and innovation in China. The textile industry is one of the pillar industries in Zhejiang province and the "block regional economy" has significant characteristics and comprehensive advantages of the industrial chain, while the textile industry is large but not strong. In particular, there is a problem that the standardized discourse power does not match the industry status. Promoting the brand building and industry voice of Zhejiang textile industry with high-quality group standards is of great significance for Zhejiang to build an advanced textile manufacturing base, promote regional economic development and achieve common prosperity.
    The representative standardized social groups in the textile field in Zhejiang province are mainly Zhejiang Brand Construction Federation and Zhejiang Textile Engineering Society. Until early 2023, more than 200 standards had been developed for textile "Defined Quality Zhejiang Made", involving the whole industrial chain of chemical fiber, yarn, clothing and production equipment. Zhejiang Textile Standard (ZFB) has released items. During the epidemic period, it took the lead in the national release of T/ZFB 0004-2020 "Children's Mask" standard. On the night of the release, it ranked the top three in Sina Weibo trending topics, with more than 170 million people reading it. Shanghai, Shandong, Guangdong, Jiangsu and other testing institutions have expanded their items and it has great influence.
    Through the examples and analysis of group standards to promote the high-quality development of the industry, this study systematically expounds the thinking and practical results of standards supporting and leading the modern textile industry chain "functional fashion, green ecology and intelligent manufacturing". First, at the beginning of its establishment, the group standard organization clarified the field and direction of standard formulation, positioned social groups with high-quality requirements, and tailored the standardization development path for first-class enterprises and first-class products. Second, using the advantages of regional aggregation and integrating resources to build an industrial chain and regional standard cooperation network are conducive to the growth of group standard participants and the formation of brand effect. Third, the organizational structure of group standards with inherent flexibility and flexibility can make it constantly fine-tune the field and direction of standard formulation according to technological development and external environment, accurately grasp the development trend of new technologies, and lead the development of group standards in this field. Fourth, culture is the activity mode and product of human transformation of society. Standardization, as a kind of human practice, is an integral part of culture. The two influence and support each other. Introducing culture into standardization is an important way to explore and develop group standards. By focusing on the active planning and layout of Zhejiang's high-quality textile quality standard chain, we will form a "three-step" systematic improvement of the industry with standards, brand quality, and quality promotion. With the breakthrough of advanced standards at each point of the system framework, a modern textile standard system with Zhejiang characteristics will be constructed to help Zhejiang build a national and even international modern textile industry benchmark.
    The combination of high-quality products and group standards will lead the modern textile industry in Zhejiang to achieve high-quality development. It is suggested to improve the level of standardization from the aspects of introducing support policies, strengthening team building, and integrating multi-sectoral collaboration, so as to better play the role of textile standardization, and at the same time promote the improvement of the group management system, and jointly promote the high-quality development of modern textile group standards in Zhejiang province.
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    Research status of electromagnetic shielding fabrics
    JI Yu, LIU Yuanjun, ZHAO Xiaoming, HOU Shuo
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (3): 1-12.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.1653547633770-1156572527
    Abstract413)      PDF (1666KB)(727)       Save
    Electromagnetic shielding can effectively protect against electromagnetic waves due to its interference with the normal operation of electronic and electrical equipment and its detriment to human health. Electromagnetic shielding fabric with excellent electromagnetic shielding properties and fabric properties is considered as an ideal material for electromagnetic shielding. Firstly, the shielding mechanism of electromagnetic shielding fabric is introduced. Secondly, the classification of electromagnetic shielding fabrics is briefly elaborated. Then the progress of preparing electromagnetic shielding fabrics by metal fibers, conductive polymers, graphene, Mxene and other materials, or by electroless plating and magnetron sputtering is analyzed. Finally, some problems existing in different kinds of electromagnetic shielding fabrics are summarized, and the prospect of their development is proposed.
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    Research progress on sustainable fashion consumption
    ZHOU Zeyan, XU Jun, SHAN Yufu, HAO Yan, LEI Zhenzhen
    Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (4): 1-10.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20230401
    Abstract292)      PDF (1667KB)(700)       Save
    Sustainability is the focus of the fashion industry, but the research on sustainable fashion consumption is still very scattered, lacking of more systematic summary. Based on the above problems, this paper uses Bibliometrix to conduct a quantitative analysis and a systematic literature review of 140 articles published in the Web of Science from 2018 to 2022. As shown by the results, this field mainly conducts research from four themes: consumer perspective, business perspective, product perspective and industry perspective. Challenges in sustainable fashion consumption include pollution, complexity, incompatibility, ecological consciousness, social status and unfairness. Opportunities in sustainable fashion consumption include utilitarianism, hedonism, leadership influence, nostalgia, pollution management and adequacy. Future research can be carried out from the perspective of national characteristic culture, technology perspective, nostalgic perspective, infant perspective, and transnational perspective. 
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    Research progress on surface modification of ultra-high molecular weight polyethyene fibers
    LI Meixia, LÜ Wangyang, WANG Gangqiang, CHEN Wenxing
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (5): 235-245.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.1663549385312-467540720
    Abstract447)      PDF (4627KB)(669)       Save
    Ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) fibers have received widespread attention due to their excellent properties like high strength, high modulus and low density. However, UHMWPE fibers exhibit poor adhesion with resins resulting from the lack of polar functional groups and high surface inertness, which leads to a limitation of the application in the field of composite materials.The interfacial properties can be effectively increased by surface modification. Firstly, this review examines the recent research on the surface modification of UHMWPE fibers, and introduces the interfacial properties and mechanism of fiber reinforced polymers (FRP). Then, it summarizes the findings of current treatments to improve interfacial adhesion, including plasma treatment, radiation-induced surface grafting, oxidation etching, corona discharge and coating. Besides, it discusses the pros and cons of each modification method. Finally, future development is proposed.
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    Research progress of fabric image processing methods based on convolutional neural network
    ZHENG Yuting, WANG Chengqun, CHEN Liangliang, WU Jiang, LÜ Wentao
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (5): 1-11.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.1663549327493-656611656
    Abstract633)      PDF (1860KB)(665)       Save
    Fabric image recognition technology based on convolutional neural network has the advantages of autonomous learning, high accuracy and wide applicability, and has been widely used in textile industry production. This paper reviews the specific applications and research progress of defect classification, defect detection, image classification and image segmentation technology based on convolutional neural networks in the textile field. This article summarizes the improvement points, advantages and disadvantages of various network structures, and at the same time looks forward to the future research directions regarding the current problems. With the continuous optimization of network structure, image recognition methods have their own emphasis on real-time and accuracy, but their robustness and applicability still have a lot of room for development, and further research is needed.
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    Preparation and properties of membranes based on PCL by electrospinning
    ZHU Ranran, YUE Hongyin, CHEN Yonghui, LI Huijun
    Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (1): 130-135.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.1673919723670-298405414
    Abstract328)      PDF (3194KB)(648)       Save
    Oil resources play an important role in social development, but there are also problems. For example, accidents in oil exploitation and transportation lead to a large number of oil spills in rivers, lakes and seas. If the oil pollution cannot be treated in time, it will cause serious harm to the ecological environment, waste of non renewable energy and loss of the national economy. Oil pollution treatment is not only a common problem facing the world, but also an urgent problem to be solved. The traditional methods for oil pollution treatment mainly include combustion method, fence collection method, chemical method, etc. However, it often leads to time consumption, high cost, poor effect, secondary pollution and other deficiencies. Therefore, how to efficiently and environmentally treat oil pollution is extremely important.
    In order to better deal with various hazards caused by oil spill events, researchers have used electrospinning technology to prepare nanofiber membranes for oil treatment in recent years. Compared with traditional oil treatment methods, the fiber membrane prepared by electrospinning technology has small diameter, high specific surface area, small density, large porosity, high oil absorption efficiency and hydrophobic property. Therefore, in this paper, natural degradable polycaprolactone (PCL) was used as the raw material, PCL fiber membranes with different mass fractions were prepared by electrospinning method, and the surface morphology of the fibers was observed by scanning electron microscope. The water contact angle, oil absorption rate and oil retention rate of PCL fiber membranes with different mass fractions were tested and analyzed. The results showed that with the increase of PCL mass fraction, the fiber diameter gradually increased. When the PCL mass fraction was 16%, there was no beaded structure between the fibers, the diameter distribution was uniform, and the average diameter was 324 nm, exhibiting good spinnability. The contact angle of PCL fiber membrane to water was 137.08°, the highest oil absorption rates of engine oil, peanut oil and rapeseed oil were 36.73 g/g, 34.20 g/g and 30.63 g/g, respectively, and the oil retention rates were all above 55%. After five cycles of use, the oil absorption rates of the three oils could still surpass 15.0 g/g. It shows that the PCL fiber membrane has favourable hydrophobic performance, oil absorption performance, oil retention and certain recycling performance.
    The nanofiber membrane prepared by electrospinning technology and the traditional method for oil pollution treatment have good hydrophobic property, oil absorption, recycling performance, environmental protection and other advantages, and has a good application prospects in the field of oil-water separation. At the same time, the research results can provide theoretical value and reference for replacing the shortcomings of traditional methods to deal with oil pollution.
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    Research progress in the prediction of heat transfer properties of fabrics based on structural characteristics
    LI Jinyu, YANG Yunchu, LIU Mingming
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (1): 18-25.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.1643026245589-84532587
    Abstract464)   HTML43)    PDF (2027KB)(600)       Save

    In order to predict the heat transfer properties of fabrics accurately, design fabrics better, and improve the thermal comfort of fabrics, the prediction models of heat transfer properties related to the structural parameters and internal characteristics of fabrics are introduced from different modeling methods, including statistical model, artificial neural network model, mathematical theoretical model and finite element model, the characteristics and application scope of different kinds of prediction models are analyzed. The research status of heat transfer simulation of fabrics at home and abroad in recent years is reviewed. Besides, the heat transfer model and research progress of fabrics containing moisture and fabrics containing phase change materials are summarized. Based on the above literature analysis, it is pointed out that the heat transfer properties of fabrics can be enhanced by optimizing the structural characteristics of fabrics, and the development trend of studies on the prediction of heat transfer properties of fabrics is proposed, so as to provide a new idea for the research of thermal comfort of garments.

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    Research progress of passive temperature-regulated clothing materials for personal thermal management
    HAN Mengyao, REN Song, GE Can, FANG Jian
    Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (1): 92-103.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.1673919720030-1743027083
    Abstract2043)      PDF (2688KB)(596)       Save
    Textiles play a vital role in human daily activities and social development. With the development of intelligent technology and the growing demand for clothing functionality, textiles with various new intelligent functions, such as temperature control, sensor monitoring and color change intelligence are favored by people. In order to reduce the energy consumption caused by space cooling, people hope that textiles can create a comfortable microclimate to regulate the temperature. Since temperature regulating textiles can effectively regulate the human body temperature and wear thermal and wet comfort based on the human body temperature regulation mechanism, they have been widely studied and developed in recent years. This energy-saving and diversified personal temperature regulation technology is called "personal thermal management" technology.
    At present, textiles with personal thermal management performance can be divided into active temperature regulating textiles and passive temperature regulating textiles according to the energy source. Temperature regulating textiles can cool down or keep warm when connected to an external power source, which is "active". On the contrary, temperature regulating textiles can only rely on the characteristics of materials without additional energy, which is "passive".
    The active cooling system refers to the system that uses gas or liquid as the cooling source. Under the condition of external power (such as electricity), the cooling source flows to absorb human heat to achieve the purpose of cooling. There are various liquid (gas) medium embedded cooling systems. Similarly, as for the active heating system, the heating source is driven by an external power source to keep warm, with the heating methods including electric heating, solar heating, chemical energy heating, and phase change material heating. Passive cooling system means that no additional energy is required for temperature regulation. The passive cooling methods mainly include reflection (radiation) cooling, infrared transparent cooling, phase change material cooling, etc., while passive heating methods include reflection (radiation) heating, reducing heat conduction, light heat conversion, etc. We mainly introduce passive thermal insulation clothing materials such as new clothing thermal insulation materials, reflective (radiation) materials, far-infrared emission materials and photo thermal conversion materials, passive cooling clothing materials such as conductive cooling materials, phase change cooling materials, reflective cooling materials, mid infrared high transmission (emission) radiation cooling materials, and double-sided temperature regulating clothing.
    There are many kinds of passive temperature regulating clothing. Among various clothing materials, new temperature regulating clothing materials can achieve different radiant heat controls by changing the emissivity, reflectivity and transmissivity of the clothing, so as to regulate the clothing microclimate to achieve "all-weather" thermal comfort without consuming additional energy, that is, personal radiant heat management. Radiation cooling, radiation heat preservation and double-sided temperature regulating clothing materials have also become the focus of current research.
    Advanced passive temperature regulating textiles rely on the heat transfer characteristics of the system and the structural design of the material. They do not need any external energy input to regulate the microclimate between the human body and the external environment, regulate the human body temperature, and maintain the thermal balance and thermal moisture comfort of the human body. In recent years, scholars at home and abroad have studied passive temperature regulating clothing materials from the aspects of temperature regulating materials, temperature regulating mechanism, clothing structure design, etc., and successfully applied the research results to the market. However, the development of passive temperature regulating clothing materials at this stage still faces many challenges, such as clothing responsiveness and durability, wearing safety and ecological health issues, and lack of implementation standards and comfort evaluation. In general, passive temperature regulating textiles have huge application potential and development space in the field of maintaining human thermal comfort. Therefore, the research on intelligent temperature regulating textiles still needs to be further deepened in order to create new intelligent textiles more quickly.
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    Effect of spinneret structure on flow characteristics of polymer melt in melt spinning extrusion process
    SHEN Zekun, WANG Hui, YING Qifan
    Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (6): 80-91.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20230610
    Abstract292)      PDF (5822KB)(595)       Save
    At present, the preparation of highly homogeneous polyester fibers is still a great challenge. The stability of melt flow in melt spinning process and the degree of non-uniformity of radial velocity distribution before extrusion affect the quality of subsequent spinning. In this paper, the flow process of polyester melt in microporous flow channel was studied by numerical simulation. The melt flow characteristics under different microporous structure of spinneret and different inlet velocity were analyzed. The non-uniformity coefficient related to melt velocity was proposed, and the influence mechanism of microporous flow channel structure parameters on the stability and uniformity of melt flow was further clarified. The spinneret structure corresponding to the optimum non-uniformity coefficient of melt flow is pointed out.
    With the increase of inlet velocity, the variation degree of melt average velocity before and after extrusion first decreases and then increases, and the flow is the most stable at 1 m/s. The time pressure drop is more stable when the inlet velocity ranges from 0.5 m/s to 1 m/s, and is more conducive to the internal stress of the primary fiber. The increase of flow velocity increases the average shear rate in the free section and strengthens the melt orientation. However, when the inlet flow velocity is 2 m/s and 3 m/s, the maximum shear rate in the flow passage reaches 105 orders of magnitude, and the possibility of melt fracture is higher, which is not conducive to the flow stability. The inlet velocity has little effect on the non-uniformity coefficient of melt flow when the spinneret geometry is unchanged. The study shows that the inlet velocity of 1m/s should be selected.
    When the die length-diameter ratio is 2 and 3, the average velocity before and after extrusion changes less, and the flow is more stable. When the length-diameter ratio is 2 and 3, the pressure drop is more conducive to the internal stress of the primary fiber. When the aspect to diameter ratio is 2,3,4, the average shear rate in the free section is high, that is, the melt orientation degree is high. However, when the aspect to diameter ratio is 2 and 4, there is still a maximum shear rate in the free section, which is easy to lead to melt fracture and is not conducive to flow stability. At the same time, as the melt is always in the fully developed section when the length-diameter ratio is increased, the thicker the boundary layer is, the more uniform the flow will be, and the non-uniformity coefficient will decrease. The results show that 3 spinneret is the best.
    When the convergence Angle is 54° and 74°, the average velocity before and after extrusion changes less, and the flow is more stable. When the convergence Angle is from 54° to 96°, the pressure drop changes stably with the maximum difference of 14.29%, which is within the reasonable range. The average melt shear rate in the free section decreases with the increase of convergence Angle, and the degree of melt orientation decreases. However, when the convergence Angle is 54° and 74°, the maximum melt shear rate in the center of the flow channel is small, and the melt is not easy to break, and the flow stability is better. At the same time, because the convergence Angle changes the radial velocity component at the entrance of the die, the influence on the flow uniformity is obvious. The results show that the spinneret with convergence Angle of 74° is the best.
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    Research progress on the thermal insulation performance of 3D spacer fabrics
    RUI Ke, HE Jiazhen
    Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (1): 259-268.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.1673919737580-1708656250
    Abstract463)      PDF (1196KB)(572)       Save
    3D spacer fabrics, also known as sandwich fabrics, are 3D structure fabrics composed of a number of spacer yarns connecting the upper and lower two surface fabric layers. The special 3D structure allows a large amount of static air to be stored in the spacer layer, and the static air is the medium with the smallest thermal conductivity in nature, which makes 3D spacer fabrics have better heat insulation performance than ordinary single-layer fabrics and have great development space as a high-performance thermal insulation material.
    3D spacer fabrics, boasting excellent thermal insulation performance, light weight, excellent moisture absorption and breathability, anti-compression, high strength, etc., have broad application prospects in the fields of medical supplies, personal protective equipment, smart textiles and energy resource conservation. In the field of medical supplies, wound dressings made of spacer fabrics can reduce the heat loss of wounds and facilitate wound recovery. In the field of personal protective equipment, spacer fabrics can enhance the thermal protective performance of thermal protective clothing and reduce the heat loads of the wearer. In the field of smart textiles, spacer fabrics can be used to develop flexible thermoelectric systems to regulate human body temperature. In the field of energy resources, thermal insulation panels made of spacer fabrics, solar steam power photothermal materials, and transparent heat insulation materials can reduce energy loss and improve the utilization rate of energy resources.
    To further expand the application field of 3D spacer fabrics so that the spacer fabrics can meet the demand for material thermal insulation performance in many fields, spacer fabric composite thermal insulation materials are an important means to enhance the thermal insulation performance of spacer fabrics. Spacer fabrics compounded with low thermal conductivity barrier insulation materials can enhance the insulation performance by reducing thermal conduction and thermal convection. The spacer fabrics composite reflective insulation materials can reduce the radiation absorbed by the fabrics and enhance the radiation reflectivity of the surface of the spacer fabrics, thus enhancing the thermal insulation performance of the spacer fabrics. The spacer fabrics with radiant heat insulation materials can enhance the heat insulation performance of the fabric by emitting the absorbed radiant heat into the environment.
    The 3D spacer fabrics contain a large amount of static air, and have excellent thermal insulation performance, as well moisture absorption and permeability, energy-absorbing cushioning, etc., which can meet the needs of functional fabrics in different fields. At present, research on the thermal insulation performance of spacer fabrics is mainly carried out for knitted spacer fabrics. Although woven spacer fabrics are often used as the reinforcement of 3D composite thermal insulation materials, their own thermal insulation performance has not been fully studied, so the investigation of the factors influencing the thermal insulation performance of woven spacer fabrics is the key to expanding their application scope. Meanwhile, the establishment of a heat transfer model based on the microscopic characteristics of spacer fabrics can help researchers optimize the structure of spacer fabrics to enhance the thermal insulation performance. Finally, the development of high-performance spacer fabrics' insulation materials based on fiber raw materials, insulation materials and compounding methods is an important means to broaden their application fields.
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    Research progress on quantitative forecast methods of clothing sales
    ZHENG Jinfeng, LUO Ronglei
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (2): 27-35.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.1647941773733-1913033384
    Abstract360)   HTML16)    PDF (1156KB)(562)       Save

    The forecast of clothing sales is one of the essential steps in the commodity planning of clothing enterprises. In order to effectively help garment planners and relevant scholars to choose appropriate forecast methods of clothing sales quickly as the case may be, this study summarizes the advantages and disadvantages, optimization process and application types of 4 kinds of quantitative sales forecast methods, including time series method, regression analysis method, grey prediction model and artificial neural network, illustrates and sums up some combined algorithms of machine learning. The results show that the time series method is suitable for short-and medium-term forecast of clothing sales with small discrete degree of historical data and few influence factors; in the regression analysis, multiple regression method is more suitable for the forecast of clothing sales with multiple influence factors than single regression method in computational theory; grey prediction model is suitable for the forecast of clothing sales with smooth data and few influence factors, while the artificial neural network is suitable for the forecast of sales of fashionable garments with highly discrete sales data.

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    Development and application of fully fashioned sweaters knitted on double-needle bed with full needle effect
    LIU Yanan, LU Huashan
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (3): 203-209.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.1653547668008-1315730423
    Abstract197)      PDF (5503KB)(550)       Save
    It is difficult for the traditional double-needle bed computerized flat knitting machine to achieve full needle effect when adopting alternate needle weaving to weave fully fashioned sweaters due to the long sinker loop of the coils and loose effect caused by retraction difficulty. The invisible four-needle bed computerized flat knitting machine is of double-needle bed structure. Two knitting needles are installed in each needle slot at the same time, that is, there are two knitting needles in the same needle position of the front and rear needle beds, which can turn over each other, but the total number of needles is twice that of the normal model. When the alternate needle weaving is used for fully fashioned knitting, the full needle knitting effect can be realized. In this paper, the local back drawing jacquard fabric is developed with the invisible four needle bed computerized flat knitting machine. The results show that the fabric is compact and the appearance effect is very close to the full needle effect, which realizes the full needle effect of double-needle bed knitting of fully fashioned sweaters.
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    Application progress of conductive fibers in the application of new textiles
    XIE Jinlin, ZHANG Jing, GUO Yuxing, ZHAO Zhihui, QIU Hua, GU Peng,
    Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (6): 241-254.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20230628
    Abstract868)      PDF (7451KB)(547)       Save
    With the development of new science and technology, textiles are not limited to the applications of warm keeping and beauty. Extra functions such as sensing and indicating are the new trend of the 21st century and the concept of e-textiles and smart textiles emerges as the times require. Thus, conductive fibers have attracted extraordinary attention with the upsurge of interest in flexible and wearable health monitoring systems, energy storage devices and noninvasive human–machine interfaces. In the meantime, conductive fibers also show excellent antistatic and shielding electromagnetic radiation properties, which made conductive fibers the excellent candidate for wearable textile devices and industrial textile products. 
    In the 1960s, people began to develop conductive fibers for antistatic purpose, and different types of conductive fibers were gradually developed. So far, conductive fibers can be divided into three main types. The first type is fibers made by inorganic materials such as metals and carbon, but these fibers exhibit poor wearability and conductive instability. The second type is polymer fibers such as PPy and PANI, which show a good conductivity up to 103 S/cm.  However, the preparation process of fiber formation is quite complex because of the high toxic monomer, high molecular weight and oxidation. The third type is composite conductive fibers made through coating or blending fabric technology. By blending or coating conductive polymers, metals or other conductive materials (such as MXene and Graphene), the composite fibers can always inherit the benefits from both conventional fibers and conductive materials.
    Currently, the major researches of conductive fibers are focused on textile technology and materials science. Although there are some review articles on the similar topics, it is necessary to summarize the recent development of conductive fibers in the application of next generation textile products. In this study, we present a review of the classification and preparation techniques of conductive fibers, as well as the application and development of antistatic, electromagnetic shielding and flexible sensors in detail. Future perspective is given in the end, which could shed light in the conductive fiber research and industry, especially in the area of smart wearable devices. 
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    Research progress of flexible composite conductive fiber in smart textiles
    ZHU Shiqian, TAN Yini, LIU Xiaogang
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (4): 1-11.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.1661393453419-297645783
    Abstract524)      PDF (2710KB)(510)       Save
    The development and application of smart textiles are the concentrated embodiment of various high-tech textiles and have shown a trend of rapid development in recent years. As a research hotspot in the field of smart textiles, flexible conductive fibers have attracted much attention due to their excellent mechanical properties, outstanding electrical and optical functional characteristics. They have huge application prospects in flexible integrated electronics, such as flexible sensing and flexible electrodes. This paper reviews the current research progress of flexible composite conductive fibers, systematically reviews the classification, preparation methods and application status of conductive fibers, and prospects the main development trends and technical challenges faced by flexible composite conductive fibers.
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    Bibliometric analysis of literatures on textile and clothing footprint based on CiteSpace
    FENG Xiang, WANG Xiaopeng, QIU Xiaoxiao, WANG Laili
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (1): 9-17.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.1643026536201-1176155055
    Abstract272)   HTML17)    PDF (6488KB)(510)       Save

    In order to study the current status and trends of literatures on textile and clothing footprints, this paper selected CNKI database and WEB OF SCIENCE database, and took journal articles on textile and clothing footprints between 2011 and 2020 as the data source. CiteSpace visual literature analysis tool was employed to analyze the keyword frequency, time zone view, cluster diagram, timeline view and burst terms, etc. of research on footprint in the field of textile and clothing. The results showed that: There were abundant studies on the accounting method, accounting data, case demonstration and other aspects of carbon footprint and water footprint, forming a relatively sound research network; research on chemical footprint started late and relevant studies are being further deepened and refined; Chinese literatures on textile and clothing footprints mainly focused on the accounting, assessment and application demonstration in the stage of industrial production; English literatures mainly focused on the perspectives of full life cycle and global industrial chain, quantifying and evaluating the carbon footprint and water footprint of textile and clothing. The relationship between the sustainable development of the industry, resource consumption and environmental pollution were also well investigated.

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    Strategies for textile color innovative design in the era of color economy
    HE Xianwei
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (2): 113-117.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.1647941583988-225338890
    Abstract245)   HTML14)    PDF (4330KB)(505)       Save

    Color plays an important role in textile design. Aiming to explore textile color innovation design strategy in the era of color economy, this paper firstly elaborates on the connotation and value of color economy, and analyzes the challenges for textile color innovative design in terms of sustainable design, concept alteration, color materials and processing technology, and proposes strategies for textile color innovative design. The research believes that by studying people's lifestyle, conducting in-depth market research, paying attention to scientific color matching, and attaching importance to the application of fashion color and traditional color culture, it is expected to provide reference for the innovative design of textile color.

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    Research progress of formaldehyde-free wrinkle resistant finishing agents for cotton fabrics
    LIANG Yajing, YAO Jinbo, FENG Mao, NIU Jiarong
    Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (1): 285-292.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.1673919739914-254157698
    Abstract452)      PDF (1134KB)(504)       Save
    Cotton fabrics are popular for comfortable handle, good breathability, anti-static electricity and affordable prices, but they have the disadvantages of poor elasticity, proness to wrinkle, and can not maintain a smooth appearance in the process of wearing. In order to improve the poor anti-wrinkle properties of cotton fabrics, and conform to the philosophy of environmental protection, the research of formaldehyde-free anti-wrinkle finishing agents has been increasingly extensive and has become the basic requirement of the new technology of anti-wrinkle finishing. Based on the principle of anti-wrinkling, we summarize three kinds of formaldehyde-free anti-wrinkling finishing agents, namely polymer, molecular crosslinked and molecular crosslinked polymers.
    Polymeric anti-wrinkle finishing agents realizing anti-wrinkle by resin deposition are mainly chitosan polymers. There are many amino groups and hydroxyl groups in the structure of chitosan, which can be diffused and deposited well to the amorphous region of the fiber. The finished fabric has high strength retention rate, high dye uptake and excellent antibacterial properties, but it has some shortcomings such as poor wrinkle resistance, yellowing and poor hand feel. It needs to be mixed with other finishing agents or modified.
    Molecular cross-linked anti-wrinkle finishing agents realize anti-wrinkle by covalent cross-linking and mainly contain polycarboxylic acids, aldehydes and ionic crosslinking compounds. Esterification crosslinking occurs between polycarboxylic acid finishing agents and cellulose macromolecules in cotton fabrics, the finished fabric has excellent wrinkle resistance, good whiteness and washability, but the strength decreases obviously and the cost is high. The above-mentioned finishing agents are often used in combination with other anti-wrinkle finishing agents or mixed with new polycarboxylic acid anti-wrinkle finishing agents in order to obtain an excellent anti-wrinkle effect at a low cost. The aldehyde finishing agents have an aldolization with the hydroxyl groups on the cotton fabric. The finished fabric has high fastness to chlorine damage and low cost, but it has obvious strength loss, yellowing and a pungent smell. The ion-crosslinked finishing agents need the cotton fabric to be ionic modification before ion-crosslinking. The finished fabric has less strength loss and good whiteness, but poor crease resistance.
    The molecular cross-linked polymer finishing agents achieve an anti-wrinkle effect through the synergistic effect of resin deposition and covalent cross-linking, with the resins mainly including reactive silicone and waterborne polyurethane. The reactive silicone is often used as a modifier to improve the anti-wrinkle properties of other finishing agents, with good handle and high strength retention rate. The waterborne polyurethane can improve the wrinkle resistance of the finished fabric by improving its molecular structure, and enhance the strength and wear resistance of the finished fabric.
    In the future research of anti-wrinkle finishing agents, it is necessary to increase the research of green environmental protection finishing agents such as chitosan and waterborne polyurethane, so as to reduce the cost and broaden the function.
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    Application progress on PEDOT:PSS in flexible wearable solar cells
    LÜ Dongfang, CAO Yimin, SONG Lixin, XIONG Jie
    Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (1): 40-53.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.1673919716565-496589828
    Abstract2080)      PDF (2988KB)(493)       Save
    Poly(3,4-ethylenedioxythiophene): polystyrene sulfonic acid (PEDOT:PSS) which is a kind of conductive polymer with superior electrical conductivity and excellent flexibility, has great potential in the field of wearable solar cells. At present, more and more people are focusing on the application research of flexible solar cells in wearability, so as to solve a series of problems about flexible solar cells, including flexibility, specific power, portability and compatibility. PEDOT:PSS, as electrode and hole transport layer, plays an important role in the research of different flexible solar cells, which promotes the rapid development of flexible solar cells.
    As an electrode, PEDOT:PSS plays a different role in DSSCs, OSCs, PSCs, and the modification methods are also slightly different. In DSSCs, PEDOT:PSS has high room temperature conductivity and remarkable stability, which can catalyze the I 3-/I - redox reaction in solar cells. In terms of performance improvement, doping-based research ideas have been formed. The preparation process is simple, non-toxic, environmentally friendly and involve excellent electrocatalytic activity. In OSCs, the emergence of PEDOT:PSS can replace the traditionally expensive ITO, and the non-conductive component PSS in the polymer can be removed by solvent post-treatment and other methods, which significantly improves the conductivity of the PEDOT:PSS electrode. In PSCs, PEDOT:PSS can be used as a transparent substrate electrode and a top electrode of flexible PSCs, respectively. After further modification of PEDOT:PSS by doping or post-treatment, the conductivity of PEDOT:PSS as a conventional electrode is further improved, and its optical transmittance is further enhanced as a top electrode, which enables the performance of the battery device to ensure a high energy conversion efficiency. In terms of flexibility, compared with the traditional battery devices constructed by metal electrodes or ITO electrodes, the devices constructed by modified PEDOT:PSS can still maintain a level comparable to the initial efficiency after bending for hundreds of times, which provides a new idea for the development of efficient and stable flexible optoelectronic devices.
    As a hole transport layer, PEDOT:PSS is only used in OSCs and PSCs due to the different structures of solar cells. In OSCs, PEDOT:PSS has a wide range of advantages as a hole transport layer. Its solution processing characteristics make it suitable for large-scale production, and it has excellent performance in smoothing electrode interface and extracting holes. Post-treatment or doping is often used to solve the problem that the strong acidity of PEDOT:PSS leads to the low efficiency of the battery. On the one hand, the acidity of PEDOT:PSS is reduced, and on the other hand, the electrochemical and optical properties of PEDOT:PSS can be improved, thus greatly improving the efficiency of OSCs. In PSCs, PEDOT:PSS is widely used as hole transport layer materials due to its matching energy level with perovskite and suitable conductivity, and simple preparation at low temperature. After doping-based modification, the energy level between PEDOT:PSS and perovskite is more matched, the carrier mobility and hole extraction ability are improved, and the efficiency of PSCs is significantly improved. Through the optimization of the preparation process, the stability and mechanical flexibility are also well balanced, which makes flexible wearable PSCs possible.
    For flexible wearable solar cells, there are two primary problems: how to prepare high-efficiency and high-flexibility battery devices, and how to improve the stability of the battery while maintaining high efficiency and high flexibility. The application of PEDOT:PSS as electrode and hole transport layer in different flexible solar cells is becoming increasingly extensive. Researchers have continuously improved and optimized the electrode materials of flexible solar cells by such methods as doping, post-processing and so on. In these solutions, PEDOT:PSS has also made an irreplaceable contribution to the development of flexible solar cells, which is of far-reaching significance.
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    Research progress of electrospinning nanofiber-based sound-absorbing materials
    LI Xiao, LIU Yuanjun, ZHAO Xiaoming
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (5): 246-258.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.1663549386805-806513196
    Abstract427)      PDF (2898KB)(485)       Save
    Noise pollution is a serious threat to people's physical and mental health. Electrospinning nanofiber materials are excellent sound-absorbing and noise-reducing materials. Based on this, a review of electrospinning nanofiber-based sound-absorbing materials is launched. First, the reason why electrospinning nanofiber materials are widely used in the field of sound absorption is explained: electrospinning technology involves simple equipment, abundant raw materials, controllable technology and low cost. Nanofiber materials have the sound absorption characteristics of high specific surface area and high porosity. Secondly, the authors briefly describe the sound absorption principle, influencing factors and test methods of the materials. Finally, the authors have a comprehensive discussion of three ways to improve the sound absorption performance of materials based on electrospinning nanofibers: composite structure, material modification and electrospinning nanofiber aerogels.
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    Preparation and application of silk fibroin/alizarin composite fiber membranes
    YU Linshuang, JIN Wanhui, ZHOU Ying, YAN Yueyue, LEI Caihong, ZHU Hailin, CHEN Jianyong
    Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (5): 58-65.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20230507
    Abstract210)      PDF (4652KB)(482)       Save
    Sudden bleeding accident is one of the important causes of human death, and the death caused by massive bleeding is a considerable medical problem. Therefore, the rapid control of bleeding has become the focus of clinical treatment, and is of important significance in military trauma and traffic accidents. Currently, few antibacterial hemostatic materials developed can simultaneously meet the requirements of low price, rapid hemostatic and low side effects, so there is still huge potential in the development of safe and non-toxic antibacterial hemostatic materials. Silk fibroin is a natural polymer, and has been studied and applied in the field of biomedical materials due to its good hemostatic performance, biocompatibility and biodegradability. However, the antibacterial property of the homogenous silk fibroin protein material is insufficient, which limits its application in wound dressing. In recent years, although inorganic antibacterial agents and organic antibacterial agents are widely used and have high bacteriostatic efficiency, they are still difficult to avoid the environmental problems caused by chemical synthesis and the drawbacks of harming human health. Natural antibacterial agents have become a better choice in the field of medical materials. Alizarin extracted from the medicinal plant madder, is a natural antibacterial agent, has few side effects on the human body, and has hemostatic, anti-inflammatory and other effects.
    In this paper, alizarin was used as natural antiseptic and hexafluoroisopropyl alcohol was used as solvent to dissolve silk fibroin protein and prepare a spinning solution. The microscopic morphology, water absorption, hemostatic and antibacterial properties of silk fibroin/alizarin composite fiber membranes were investigated under different proportions.
    The results show that, compared with pure silk fibroin fiber membranes, the diameter distribution of the composite fiber membrane with alizarin has no obvious difference. The fibers in the membrane are compact and smooth without beading morphology. At the same time, new absorption peaks appear on the infrared curve of the composite fiber membrane, corresponding to the out-of-plane bending vibration of the C-H bond in the benzene ring, the in-plane bending vibration of C-H plane, and the out-of-plane bending vibration of C-H. The changes of the above peaks indicate the existence of alizarin in the silk fibroin film. Compared with hemostatic gauze, the water absorption of silk fibroin protein film has a significant advantage, and the water absorption of the composite film gradually decreases with the increase of alizarin content. Compared with the BCI value of hemostatic gauze, the BCI value of the composite film decreases gradually with the increase of alizarin content, and the addition of alizarin significantly improves the hemostatic performance of the film. Compared with pure silk fibroin protein membrane, the antibacterial activity of the composite membrane is significantly improved, and the antibacterial rate increases with the increase of the ratio of silk fibroin to alizarin. At the same time, under the condition that the mass ratio of silk fibroin to alizarin of 10:1, the antibacterial rates of the composite membrane are both more than 90% against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli, showing strong antibacterial effect. Silk fibroin and alizarin are natural substances, with little harm to human body. Silk/alizarin composite membranes have good effect in hemostasis and antibacterial test, and show great application prospect in the development of silk fibroin wounds.
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    Application progress of embroidery technology in smart textiles
    FENG Yuan, ZHOU Jinli, YANG Hongying, WANG Zheng, XIONG Fan, DU Lixin
    Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (1): 82-91.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.1673919719372-76687119
    Abstract1950)      PDF (4824KB)(479)       Save
    Embroidery is a method of decoration on the surface of finished fabrics, which has a certain aesthetic value. As one of the most commonly used development technologies in the field of smart textiles, embroidery technology has great application value in smart textiles because of its excellent personalized customization function, process reproducibility and production efficiency. In recent years, with its unique processing advantages, embroidery technology has provided increasingly extensive research and development ideas for wearable devices, flexible electronic fabrics and other products, so it has been widely studied and applied in signal identification and transmission, biosensor and physical sensing.
    At present, with the gradual expansion of the smart wearable field in the market, flexible fabrics already have the functions of signal recognition and signal transmission. Compared with most fabric processing technologies, embroidery technology is remarkable in Tailored Fiber Placemen (TFP) function, which gives it an advantage in the preparation of flexible electronic tags and signal transmission lines. In terms of biosensors, embroidery technology has been one of the main methods to prepare fabric ECG electrodes and EMG electrodes. Users only need to wear smart textiles with integrated biosensors, and the sensors will be located in the corresponding monitoring position. The use of embroidery instead of weaving or knitting can make the design and shape of the electrode more personalized, so that it can adapt to different applications and monitoring scenes. Therefore, embroidery technology has high application potential in the field of intelligent wearable to monitor human bioelectric signals. Textile sensors can provide the evaluation of general parameters such as pressure, stress, temperature and humidity, and have great application value in structural monitoring and medical and health care. At present, many scholars at home and abroad have made good physical sensors such as stress sensor, temperature sensor and pressure sensor through embroidery technology. Embroidery has other important applications in the field of smart textiles, such as physiotherapy textiles and temperature-adjusted textiles.
    Intelligent textiles are a new product in the interdisciplinary research field. In addition to transmission and sensing functions, smart textiles have the structural characteristics of being multiple, multi-dimensional and multi-scale, but also show the characteristics of light weight, low modulus and skin affinity. With its unique processing advantages, embroidery technology provides more extensive research and development ideas for wearable devices, flexible electronic fabrics and other products, so it is used in intelligent textile research in various fields.
    At present, the application of embroidery technology in smart textiles has great potential, not only with powerful personalized customization and convenient fabric surface beautification and decoration, but also with good process reproducibility and structural dimensional stability, which can ensure the rapid prototyping of designed products and promote the quantitative production of new intelligent textiles. However, there are still some problems in the application of embroidery technology in smart textiles, such as the undiversified supply of conductive embroidery thread, insufficient applicability of printing software to intelligent textile design, and so on. The most important thing is to promote cooperation among embroidery and medicine, electronics, communications, materials, textiles and other disciplines, and constantly enhance and improve the functionality and practicability of the products. For this reason, it is necessary to strengthen the research and development of conductive yarns for embroidery, to study embroidery printing software and embroidery devices suitable for the design of intelligent textiles, and to promote cross-cooperation between embroidery technology and other fields.
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    Numerical simulation of melt spinning process of polyester industrial yarn
    ZHANG Wei, CHENG Wenkai, ZHANG Xianming
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (5): 52-59.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.1663549345868-816179586
    Abstract292)      PDF (3476KB)(464)       Save
    In order to investigate the melt flow law of polyester industrial yarn during melt spinning, a model was built according to spinneret orifices used by enterprises and a numerical simulation of melt spinning process of polyester industrial yarn was carried out by adopting three-dimensional finite element method (FEM). The effects of the convergence angle, the aspect ratio and the distribution of inlet flow of the spinneret orifice on the temperature field, velocity field, shear rate and pressure field were compared and analyzed. The results show that the temperature field is insensitive to changes of spinneret orifice structure and is greatly affected by the inlet flow rate. When the convergence angle increases, the growth rate of velocity in transition zone increases. If the aspect ratio is too big, the shearing effect of the melt is strengthened by the die section, which is not conducive to the uniform distribution of velocity. The inlet flow rate has great influence on the melt flow state. Besides, it is the most conducive to the uniform distribution of weloaty when the spinneret orifice has an convergence angle of 73 ° and an aspect ratio of three.
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    Preparation and performance of organic electrochemical transistors with covalent organic frameworks as channel materials#br#
    WANG Ke, JIN Dalai
    Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (5): 117-124.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20230513
    Abstract323)      PDF (7264KB)(456)       Save
    While the past decade has witnessed remarkable advances in the field of organic bioelectronics, organic electrochemical transistors (OECTs) have been regarded as one of the most promising device platforms for this purpose. An OECT is a type of transistor where the source-to-drain current is electrochemically modulated by applying biases on the gate electrode. In comparison with other organic electronic devices, OECTs have several advantages, including simple device fabrication, strechability, relatively low operation voltages, and decent on-off current ratios. Accordingly, many researchers have developed various types of OECT-based bioe-lectronics with the capability of sensing DNAs, hormones, metabolites, and neurotransmitters, or of monitoring cells, tissues, or brain activities. 
    To understand the mechanism of OECT device operation, the mixed transport of holes/electrons and ions through an organic channel should be considered simultaneously. When an electrical bias is applied to the gate electrode, the conductivity of the organic layer is controlled by driving small cations (or anions) from the electrolyte medium to the channel layer, so as to dedope (or dope) the constituent organic conductor, resulting in the efficient modulation of source-to-drain current. In this regard, OECTs employ the whole volume of organic film as an effective channel, unlike typical organic field-effect transistors (OFETs) with the interface between semiconducting and dielectric layers functions as a major channel. From the perspective of engineering the channel microstructure, in-plane π–π stacking among the conjugated moieties, as well as well-organized out-of-plane ordering, is highly desired to facilitate both intrachain and interchain transport of charge carriers along the channel direction. Meanwhile, porosity with micro/nanoscopic voids and molecular-scale dispersion of ion-conductive moieties (e.g., polyelectrolytes or ion-conductive side chains) should be uniformly distributed throughout the organic layer to enable facile permeation of small ions into the channel layer (e.g., conjugated molecules or polymers), leading to an effective control over charge carrier density. Among a variety of soft electronic materials, poly(3,4-ethyle-nedioxythiophene) doped with poly(styrenesulfonate) (PEDOT:PSS) has been one of the most frequently used channel materials for OECTs and related bioelectronic devices, owing to its high electrical conductivity, good optical transparency, and decent biocompatibility. However, the poor stability of PEDOT:PSS in water and the occurrence of chemical cross-linking after modification make the PEDOT:PSS film dense and interfere with interchain charge transfer, resulting in a significant decrease in electron and ion mobility. Therefore, it is urgent to to develop a channel material with high stability and electron and ion mobility.               
    Covalent organic frameworks (COFs) are widely used in gas adsorption/separation, energy storage and conversion, catalysis and other fields due to their excellent stability, conjugated structure, and adjustable functionality. At the same time, COF is also a promising channel material for OECT. In this study, surface-initiated Schiff base-mediated aldol condensation reaction was used to successfully grow COF films in situ on silicon wafers, and its structure was characterized by XRD, FTIR, SEM, AFM, TEM, etc. The effect of COF films in OECT application was tested through device assembly, and about 100 times the switch ratio, a low threshold voltage of 0.4 V, and a field-effect mobility of 0.53 cm2/(V·s) were obtained. The results of this study have expanded the application of covalent organic framework films in the field of electronic devices.
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    Recent advances in the fabrication and application of multi-functional super-hydrophobic textiles
    LI Huihui, WANG Qun, Jia Weike, WANG Jiping
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (3): 39-46.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.1653547647695-2130592141
    Abstract263)      PDF (1904KB)(455)       Save
    Multi-functional textiles with special wettability have attracted more and more attention for their potential application, and the proposal of "lotus effect" has furtherly attracted researchers' interests in the development of the special wettability. This paper firstly summarized methods forconstructing micro-nano structures on fabrics to adjust the special wettability, then made a representation for the superhydrophobic theory and applications in self-cleaning, oil-water separation and corrosion resistance (such as resistance to acid, alkali and salt solution). Finally, we summarized the critical issues existing in constructing superhydrophobic coatings and prospected their applications in the future.
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    Establishment and application of online shopping garment size recommendation system: take women's t-shirts for example
    NIU Mengmeng, WU Changjiao, LU Yehu, WANG Mingxing
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (3): 210-215.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.1653547669132-1363663916
    Abstract230)      PDF (1697KB)(450)       Save
    In view that consumers cannot try on clothing purchased online, resulting in poor fitness and high refund of clothing, with women's T-shirts as an example, through literature collection, expert interviews and empirical research, the clothing fitness ease threshold of the key parts of clothing and the judging criteria for different silhouettes were determined, and a complete size recommendation system was established on this basis, which stores information such as clothing specifications and dimensions, user' personal information in the system database. The system front end was designed using bootstrap framework and the back end was developed using C# language. Adopting quadratic function as the core algorithm, the system is feasible to realize intelligent recommendation of clothing size by calculating and comparing the function values of different sizes. Through experimental verification, it is proved that the accuracy rate of this recommendation system can exceed 88%. It is conductive to eliminating consumers' shopping doubts to some extent, lowering logistics costs, and promoting the development of apparel e-commerce.
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    Identification of gardenia yellow plant dyes and their dyed silk fabrics
    GUI Zuwena, b, XU Haoninga, b, CHEN Haixiangb, YU Zhichenga, b, WANG Leia, b
    Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (6): 1-8.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.20230601
    Abstract365)      PDF (1466KB)(442)       Save
    In recent years, with the improvement of people's awareness of environmental protection, ecological textiles have been increasingly favored by people. Because of their non-toxic, biodegradable and other characteristics, plant dyes are widely used to study the dyeing and printing of textiles. Dyeing and printing with plant dyes can not only reduce the harm of dyes to the human body and make full use of natural renewable resources, but also greatly reduce the toxicity of printing and dyeing wastewater, playing a role in protecting the environment indirectly. At present, the development and utilization of plant dyes is under the active exploration and research, and the plant dye demonstration system engineering has been launched officially. In order to fill the deficiency of the world plant dye standard system, and lay a solid foundation for China to lead the development of the global plant dye industry, it is necessary to establish the identification methods and standards of plant dye series of products. In order to ensure the quality of plant dyeing products on the market, crack down on fake and shoddy products, and standardize market operation, so that consumers can rest assured and buy satisfactory plant dyeing products, it is very important to identify the corresponding vegetable dyes and dyeing textiles.
    In order to identify plant dyes and their dyed textiles, this paper takes gardenia yellow plant dyes and dyed silk fabrics as the research objects. Firstly, the gardenia yellow plant dyes were tested by ultraviolet spectrophotometer, and the markers of gardenia yellow plant dyes were indentified by combining with the descriptions in the literature. Then the markers, gardenia yellow plant dyes and their dyed silk fabric extract were detected by using liquid mass combination instrument under negative ion mode. By comparing the retention time and mass spectrometry of the dyes, dyed silk fabric extract and the dyed silk fabric, whether the dye and fabric were gardenia yellow plant dye and its dyed silk fabric was determined.
    The results showed that crocin Ⅰ and crocin acid could be used as markers to distinguish gardenia yellow plant dyes and their dyed silk fabrics. The molecular ion peaks m/z=975.3472 and m/z=327.1553 were detected in the mass spectrum of gardenia yellow plant dyes, and the retention times were 0.61 min and 1.38 min, respectively. The molecular ion peaks m/z=975.396 and m/z=327.1489 were detected in the mass spectrum of dyed silk fabric extract, and the retention times were 0.61 min and 1.38 min, respectively. The retention times were similar to the peak time of the crocin Ⅰ standard substance (0.61 min) and crocin acid standard substance (1.36 min), and the deviations were within the allowable deviation range of ±2.5%. Therefore, it was determined that the dye and the dyed silk fabric are respectively the gardenia yellow plant dye and its dyed silk fabric.
    At present, many textile colleges and universities have established relatively complete database of vegetable dyes and comprehensive vegetable dye color cards. However, there are certain deficiencies in the relevant standards of plant dyeing in every link in the current market, and consumers have insufficient awareness of them and cannot verify the conformity of products. Therefore, identifying the corresponding plant dyes and their dyed fabrics is a priority in the development of plant dyeing.
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    Scale development and validation of clothing brand sustainability
    HE Jingyu, CHEN Lihong, HE Lin
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (6): 194-203.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.1668593503086-998155019
    Abstract394)      PDF (1282KB)(438)       Save
    In order to better carry out the research on clothing brand sustainability, the clothing brand sustainability measurement scale is developed. Based on literature research and case study, this paper defines the concept, structural dimensions and corresponding measurement indexes of clothing brand sustainability. Through the statistical analysis of the survey data, the reliability and validity of the scale were tested. The scale validity was tested by taking consumers' green purchase intention as the outcome variable. Finally, a scale of 12 measurement items including social sustainability, environmental sustainability and economic sustainability was determined. The results show that the overall structure of the scale is good and the reliability and validity pass the test. The forecasting effect of each dimension of clothing brand sustainability on consumers' green purchase intention and the practical application of the scale are verified. The research results provide an effective measurement tool for apparel brand sustainability and a reference for apparel enterprises to improve brand sustainability.
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    Empirical analysis of the impact of digital economy on the upgrading of shaoxing textile industry
    WANG Ruirong
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (2): 118-126.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.1647941594606-955051669
    Abstract301)   HTML15)    PDF (1092KB)(431)       Save

    Taking the data of Shaoxing prefecture-level cities from 2005 to 2019 as the object of research, this paper is focused on an empirical analysis of the impact of the digital economy on the upgrading of Shaoxing textile industry. As shown in the results, in view of the overall industry, the digital economy has a significant and positive impact on promoting the upgrading of the textile industry; in view of the industry segmentation, its positive promoting effect on chemical fiber manufacturing industry and textile industry is more significant than that on clothing industry, leather industry and footwear industry. In addition, the level of economic development can significantly and positively facilitate the upgrading of the textile industry, while human capital and policy environment exhibit a negative inhibiting effect, and foreign direct investment has no significant impact on the upgrading of the textile industry on the whole. Finally, this paper proposes corresponding policy recommendations based on the research conclusions.

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    The establishment and optimization of individualized brassiere patterns
    CHENG Tiantian
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (2): 216-221.   DOI: 10.12477/xdfzjs.1647941751637-1071997498
    Abstract250)   HTML10)    PDF (2159KB)(430)       Save

    In order to solve the problem of inefficiency in manual plate making and pattern grading by garment CAD system, the inability of brassiere pattern formation with the change of female body shape, with the top-bottom two-piece up brassiere as examples, according to mathematical model of the brassiere pattern, a program for data automatic calculation and automatic pattern generation was written on Matlae software development platform. The chest circumference and chest difference were selected as the control variables to drive the program to obtain a new brassiere pattern for the purpose of an individualized customization of the brassiere pattern. The results show that it is feasible to establish a mathematical model of the brassiere pattern according to two variables of chest circumference and chest difference, which can also drive the Matlae program, and generate the bra pattern for corresponding body shape. In addition, automatic plate making, pattern grading and updating of the brassiere pattern can be realized with the change in body shape in 2-3 s, thus enhancing the rapid service capability of individualized customization.

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