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    Technical measures for reducing the defects in polyester colored spun yarn
    LIU Jianlin
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (3): 117-121.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202107023
    Abstract1954)      PDF (992KB)(1192)       Save
    In order to control the defects in the colored spun yarn, ensure the effect of fabric cover, and stabilize the fabric style, the production process of color spinning is optimized and improved. For example, a new cylinder clothing is selected for cotton carding while adopting flexible carding to reduce fiber damage. Drawing process is used to reduce the number of sliver doubling, reduce the total drafting multiple and drafting irregularity, stabilize the level of sliver and improve the fiber extended parallelization. In the spinning process, it is necessary to properly enlarge the roller spacing, increase the nip spacing block and reduce fine yarn defects. By adopting a series of process optimization measures, the defects of colored spun yarn are greatly reduced, the self-winding production efficiency is enhanced, the cloth quality is improved, and obvious results are obtained. The adoption of new carding equipment and process optimization measures has broken through the concept of "light weight and tight spacing" in traditional process, greatly reduced the defects in color spun yarn, and provided practical experience and innovative ideas for quality management and process research in color spun enterprises.
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    Research progress of electronic fabrics in the intelligent wearable field
    YIN Yunlei, GUO Cheng, YANG Hongying, LI Hong, WANG Zheng
    Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (1): 1-12.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202207026
    Abstract2402)      PDF (6315KB)(852)       Save
    With the development of human society and the progress of science and technology, intelligent wearable devices have attracted more and more attention. Among various types of smart wearable devices, electronic fabrics that combine fabrics with electronics are expected to play an essential role in health monitoring, motion monitoring, intelligent medical treatment, and human-computer interaction.
    At present, the application of intelligent wearable devices is becoming increasingly critical in People's daily life. Intelligent wearable devices are gradually developing towards flexibility and miniaturization to meet the characteristics of flexibility, lightweight, and effortless skin fitting. Textiles are one of the ideal choices for intelligent wearables because of their excellent flexibility, lightweight, and air permeability.
    Fabric sensors have excellent flexibility, air permeability, human body fit, and other characteristics and can be easily integrated with clothing. They have been widely used in sports monitoring, health monitoring, and intelligent medical treatment. In addition, fiber-shaped light-emitting electronic devices can be seamlessly integrated with textiles, allowing textile display, sensing, and camouflage applications. Moreover, luminous electronic fabrics play a vital role in transportation, security, anti-counterfeiting, clothing, and aviation. As the application of intelligent wearable electronic devices continues to expand, in order to ensure the sustainable operation of smart wearable electronic devices, it is essential to develop reliable, intelligent wearable power systems and energy management devices.
    Flexibility and comfort based on fabric are essential for intelligent wearable devices. Electronic fabrics can inherit the advantages of light weight, flexibility, air permeability, and a certain degree of ductility of traditional fabrics while having electronic functions. Currently, fabric electronic devices have been widely studied and used in sensing, luminescence, energy conversion, and energy storage. With further development, electronic fabrics may be combined with a variety of smart wearable devices in the future, bringing us a more intelligent life.
    As a new type of intelligent textile, electronic fabrics have excellent potential in the intelligent wearable field. In the future, electronic fabrics with unique structures and various functions are expected to be integrated into people's lives, which can not only meet the needs of daily wear but also serve the emerging fields of personalized health monitoring, motion monitoring, intelligent medical treatment, and human-computer interaction. Although electronic fabrics have made significant achievements in intelligent wearables, the performance, large-scale manufacturing, and unified technical testing standards of electronic fabrics are still the challenges facing the research and application of electronic fabrics in the field of intelligent wearables. Therefore, it is necessary to improve other electronic fabrics' design, function, and performance, so as to accelerate the further development of electronic fabrics in the field of intelligent wearables.
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    Research progress on preparation of alginate fiber and its application in textiles
    LIU Xiulong, WANG Yunyi
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (1): 26-35.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202103041
    Abstract437)   HTML32)    PDF (1169KB)(784)       Save

    The preparation methods of alginate fiber include wet spinning, electrostatic spinning, microfluidic spinning and centrifugal spinning. Among them, alginate fiber prepared by wet spinning has poor mechanical properties, salt and detergent resistance and dyeing properties, which hinder its large-scale application in the field of textiles and garments. Through fiber modification and functional transformation, the properties of alginate fiber prepared by wet spinning can be improved, and its application scope in the field of textiles and garments can be expanded. From three aspects: alginate fiber preparation, property modification and development of functional alginate fiber for textiles, this paper compared differences among preparation methods of alginate fiber, and summed up modification methods of mechanical properties, salt and washing resistance and dyeing properties of alginate fiber for textiles, types of functional alginate fiber for textiles. Lastly, it was pointed out that the industrial application of the preparation methods and research findings of functional alginate fiber are the direction for future development.

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    Development and application of VR/AR technology in the apparel industry
    FANG Chaoyi, HE Jiazhen
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (6): 166-175.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202202009
    Abstract630)      PDF (1283KB)(611)       Save
    To further promote the digital development of the clothing industry and broaden the application of virtual reality (VR) and augmented reality (AR) technologies in the apparel industry, this paper introduces the specific technologies involved in VR/AR and their development trajectories and summarizes the main applications of VR/AR technology. With a focus on the entire chain of apparel industry, VR/AR technology is used to assist fabric design, clothing style and structure design during the design stage; this technology can be applied to simulate the actual usage scenario of the clothing and evaluate the thermal comfort in a virtual scene during the performance evaluation stage; the technology can be used to enhance the visual experience of virtual catwalk show and virtual fitting during the marketing planning stage. Finally, this paper summarizes and looks forward to VR/AR technology from the aspects of hardware and software, and points out that algorithm upgrade and application ecological construction are the future development directions.
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    Research status of electromagnetic shielding fabrics
    JI Yu, LIU Yuanjun, ZHAO Xiaoming, HOU Shuo
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (3): 1-12.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202106055
    Abstract293)      PDF (1666KB)(588)       Save
    Electromagnetic shielding can effectively protect against electromagnetic waves due to its interference with the normal operation of electronic and electrical equipment and its detriment to human health. Electromagnetic shielding fabric with excellent electromagnetic shielding properties and fabric properties is considered as an ideal material for electromagnetic shielding. Firstly, the shielding mechanism of electromagnetic shielding fabric is introduced. Secondly, the classification of electromagnetic shielding fabrics is briefly elaborated. Then the progress of preparing electromagnetic shielding fabrics by metal fibers, conductive polymers, graphene, Mxene and other materials, or by electroless plating and magnetron sputtering is analyzed. Finally, some problems existing in different kinds of electromagnetic shielding fabrics are summarized, and the prospect of their development is proposed.
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    Research progress on surface modification of ultra-high molecular weight polyethyene fibers
    LI Meixia, LÜ Wangyang, WANG Gangqiang, CHEN Wenxing
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (5): 235-245.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202111058
    Abstract306)      PDF (4627KB)(540)       Save
    Ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) fibers have received widespread attention due to their excellent properties like high strength, high modulus and low density. However, UHMWPE fibers exhibit poor adhesion with resins resulting from the lack of polar functional groups and high surface inertness, which leads to a limitation of the application in the field of composite materials.The interfacial properties can be effectively increased by surface modification. Firstly, this review examines the recent research on the surface modification of UHMWPE fibers, and introduces the interfacial properties and mechanism of fiber reinforced polymers (FRP). Then, it summarizes the findings of current treatments to improve interfacial adhesion, including plasma treatment, radiation-induced surface grafting, oxidation etching, corona discharge and coating. Besides, it discusses the pros and cons of each modification method. Finally, future development is proposed.
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    Research progress in the prediction of heat transfer properties of fabrics based on structural characteristics
    LI Jinyu, YANG Yunchu, LIU Mingming
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (1): 18-25.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202104011
    Abstract387)   HTML43)    PDF (2027KB)(533)       Save

    In order to predict the heat transfer properties of fabrics accurately, design fabrics better, and improve the thermal comfort of fabrics, the prediction models of heat transfer properties related to the structural parameters and internal characteristics of fabrics are introduced from different modeling methods, including statistical model, artificial neural network model, mathematical theoretical model and finite element model, the characteristics and application scope of different kinds of prediction models are analyzed. The research status of heat transfer simulation of fabrics at home and abroad in recent years is reviewed. Besides, the heat transfer model and research progress of fabrics containing moisture and fabrics containing phase change materials are summarized. Based on the above literature analysis, it is pointed out that the heat transfer properties of fabrics can be enhanced by optimizing the structural characteristics of fabrics, and the development trend of studies on the prediction of heat transfer properties of fabrics is proposed, so as to provide a new idea for the research of thermal comfort of garments.

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    Preparation and properties of membranes based on PCL by electrospinning
    ZHU Ranran, YUE Hongyin, CHEN Yonghui, LI Huijun
    Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (1): 130-135.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202205016
    Abstract229)      PDF (3194KB)(501)       Save
    Oil resources play an important role in social development, but there are also problems. For example, accidents in oil exploitation and transportation lead to a large number of oil spills in rivers, lakes and seas. If the oil pollution cannot be treated in time, it will cause serious harm to the ecological environment, waste of non renewable energy and loss of the national economy. Oil pollution treatment is not only a common problem facing the world, but also an urgent problem to be solved. The traditional methods for oil pollution treatment mainly include combustion method, fence collection method, chemical method, etc. However, it often leads to time consumption, high cost, poor effect, secondary pollution and other deficiencies. Therefore, how to efficiently and environmentally treat oil pollution is extremely important.
    In order to better deal with various hazards caused by oil spill events, researchers have used electrospinning technology to prepare nanofiber membranes for oil treatment in recent years. Compared with traditional oil treatment methods, the fiber membrane prepared by electrospinning technology has small diameter, high specific surface area, small density, large porosity, high oil absorption efficiency and hydrophobic property. Therefore, in this paper, natural degradable polycaprolactone (PCL) was used as the raw material, PCL fiber membranes with different mass fractions were prepared by electrospinning method, and the surface morphology of the fibers was observed by scanning electron microscope. The water contact angle, oil absorption rate and oil retention rate of PCL fiber membranes with different mass fractions were tested and analyzed. The results showed that with the increase of PCL mass fraction, the fiber diameter gradually increased. When the PCL mass fraction was 16%, there was no beaded structure between the fibers, the diameter distribution was uniform, and the average diameter was 324 nm, exhibiting good spinnability. The contact angle of PCL fiber membrane to water was 137.08°, the highest oil absorption rates of engine oil, peanut oil and rapeseed oil were 36.73 g/g, 34.20 g/g and 30.63 g/g, respectively, and the oil retention rates were all above 55%. After five cycles of use, the oil absorption rates of the three oils could still surpass 15.0 g/g. It shows that the PCL fiber membrane has favourable hydrophobic performance, oil absorption performance, oil retention and certain recycling performance.
    The nanofiber membrane prepared by electrospinning technology and the traditional method for oil pollution treatment have good hydrophobic property, oil absorption, recycling performance, environmental protection and other advantages, and has a good application prospects in the field of oil-water separation. At the same time, the research results can provide theoretical value and reference for replacing the shortcomings of traditional methods to deal with oil pollution.
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    Research progress of passive temperature-regulated clothing materials for personal thermal management
    HAN Mengyao, REN Song, GE Can, FANG Jian
    Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (1): 92-103.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202205055
    Abstract1885)      PDF (2688KB)(484)       Save
    Textiles play a vital role in human daily activities and social development. With the development of intelligent technology and the growing demand for clothing functionality, textiles with various new intelligent functions, such as temperature control, sensor monitoring and color change intelligence are favored by people. In order to reduce the energy consumption caused by space cooling, people hope that textiles can create a comfortable microclimate to regulate the temperature. Since temperature regulating textiles can effectively regulate the human body temperature and wear thermal and wet comfort based on the human body temperature regulation mechanism, they have been widely studied and developed in recent years. This energy-saving and diversified personal temperature regulation technology is called "personal thermal management" technology.
    At present, textiles with personal thermal management performance can be divided into active temperature regulating textiles and passive temperature regulating textiles according to the energy source. Temperature regulating textiles can cool down or keep warm when connected to an external power source, which is "active". On the contrary, temperature regulating textiles can only rely on the characteristics of materials without additional energy, which is "passive".
    The active cooling system refers to the system that uses gas or liquid as the cooling source. Under the condition of external power (such as electricity), the cooling source flows to absorb human heat to achieve the purpose of cooling. There are various liquid (gas) medium embedded cooling systems. Similarly, as for the active heating system, the heating source is driven by an external power source to keep warm, with the heating methods including electric heating, solar heating, chemical energy heating, and phase change material heating. Passive cooling system means that no additional energy is required for temperature regulation. The passive cooling methods mainly include reflection (radiation) cooling, infrared transparent cooling, phase change material cooling, etc., while passive heating methods include reflection (radiation) heating, reducing heat conduction, light heat conversion, etc. We mainly introduce passive thermal insulation clothing materials such as new clothing thermal insulation materials, reflective (radiation) materials, far-infrared emission materials and photo thermal conversion materials, passive cooling clothing materials such as conductive cooling materials, phase change cooling materials, reflective cooling materials, mid infrared high transmission (emission) radiation cooling materials, and double-sided temperature regulating clothing.
    There are many kinds of passive temperature regulating clothing. Among various clothing materials, new temperature regulating clothing materials can achieve different radiant heat controls by changing the emissivity, reflectivity and transmissivity of the clothing, so as to regulate the clothing microclimate to achieve "all-weather" thermal comfort without consuming additional energy, that is, personal radiant heat management. Radiation cooling, radiation heat preservation and double-sided temperature regulating clothing materials have also become the focus of current research.
    Advanced passive temperature regulating textiles rely on the heat transfer characteristics of the system and the structural design of the material. They do not need any external energy input to regulate the microclimate between the human body and the external environment, regulate the human body temperature, and maintain the thermal balance and thermal moisture comfort of the human body. In recent years, scholars at home and abroad have studied passive temperature regulating clothing materials from the aspects of temperature regulating materials, temperature regulating mechanism, clothing structure design, etc., and successfully applied the research results to the market. However, the development of passive temperature regulating clothing materials at this stage still faces many challenges, such as clothing responsiveness and durability, wearing safety and ecological health issues, and lack of implementation standards and comfort evaluation. In general, passive temperature regulating textiles have huge application potential and development space in the field of maintaining human thermal comfort. Therefore, the research on intelligent temperature regulating textiles still needs to be further deepened in order to create new intelligent textiles more quickly.
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    Research progress on quantitative forecast methods of clothing sales
    ZHENG Jinfeng, LUO Ronglei
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (2): 27-35.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202104036
    Abstract245)   HTML16)    PDF (1156KB)(483)       Save

    The forecast of clothing sales is one of the essential steps in the commodity planning of clothing enterprises. In order to effectively help garment planners and relevant scholars to choose appropriate forecast methods of clothing sales quickly as the case may be, this study summarizes the advantages and disadvantages, optimization process and application types of 4 kinds of quantitative sales forecast methods, including time series method, regression analysis method, grey prediction model and artificial neural network, illustrates and sums up some combined algorithms of machine learning. The results show that the time series method is suitable for short-and medium-term forecast of clothing sales with small discrete degree of historical data and few influence factors; in the regression analysis, multiple regression method is more suitable for the forecast of clothing sales with multiple influence factors than single regression method in computational theory; grey prediction model is suitable for the forecast of clothing sales with smooth data and few influence factors, while the artificial neural network is suitable for the forecast of sales of fashionable garments with highly discrete sales data.

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    Research progress on the thermal insulation performance of 3D spacer fabrics
    RUI Ke, HE Jiazhen
    Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (1): 259-268.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202206022
    Abstract254)      PDF (1196KB)(452)       Save
    3D spacer fabrics, also known as sandwich fabrics, are 3D structure fabrics composed of a number of spacer yarns connecting the upper and lower two surface fabric layers. The special 3D structure allows a large amount of static air to be stored in the spacer layer, and the static air is the medium with the smallest thermal conductivity in nature, which makes 3D spacer fabrics have better heat insulation performance than ordinary single-layer fabrics and have great development space as a high-performance thermal insulation material.
    3D spacer fabrics, boasting excellent thermal insulation performance, light weight, excellent moisture absorption and breathability, anti-compression, high strength, etc., have broad application prospects in the fields of medical supplies, personal protective equipment, smart textiles and energy resource conservation. In the field of medical supplies, wound dressings made of spacer fabrics can reduce the heat loss of wounds and facilitate wound recovery. In the field of personal protective equipment, spacer fabrics can enhance the thermal protective performance of thermal protective clothing and reduce the heat loads of the wearer. In the field of smart textiles, spacer fabrics can be used to develop flexible thermoelectric systems to regulate human body temperature. In the field of energy resources, thermal insulation panels made of spacer fabrics, solar steam power photothermal materials, and transparent heat insulation materials can reduce energy loss and improve the utilization rate of energy resources.
    To further expand the application field of 3D spacer fabrics so that the spacer fabrics can meet the demand for material thermal insulation performance in many fields, spacer fabric composite thermal insulation materials are an important means to enhance the thermal insulation performance of spacer fabrics. Spacer fabrics compounded with low thermal conductivity barrier insulation materials can enhance the insulation performance by reducing thermal conduction and thermal convection. The spacer fabrics composite reflective insulation materials can reduce the radiation absorbed by the fabrics and enhance the radiation reflectivity of the surface of the spacer fabrics, thus enhancing the thermal insulation performance of the spacer fabrics. The spacer fabrics with radiant heat insulation materials can enhance the heat insulation performance of the fabric by emitting the absorbed radiant heat into the environment.
    The 3D spacer fabrics contain a large amount of static air, and have excellent thermal insulation performance, as well moisture absorption and permeability, energy-absorbing cushioning, etc., which can meet the needs of functional fabrics in different fields. At present, research on the thermal insulation performance of spacer fabrics is mainly carried out for knitted spacer fabrics. Although woven spacer fabrics are often used as the reinforcement of 3D composite thermal insulation materials, their own thermal insulation performance has not been fully studied, so the investigation of the factors influencing the thermal insulation performance of woven spacer fabrics is the key to expanding their application scope. Meanwhile, the establishment of a heat transfer model based on the microscopic characteristics of spacer fabrics can help researchers optimize the structure of spacer fabrics to enhance the thermal insulation performance. Finally, the development of high-performance spacer fabrics' insulation materials based on fiber raw materials, insulation materials and compounding methods is an important means to broaden their application fields.
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    Development and application of fully fashioned sweaters knitted on double-needle bed with full needle effect
    LIU Yanan, LU Huashan
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (3): 203-209.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202112002
    Abstract145)      PDF (5503KB)(430)       Save
    It is difficult for the traditional double-needle bed computerized flat knitting machine to achieve full needle effect when adopting alternate needle weaving to weave fully fashioned sweaters due to the long sinker loop of the coils and loose effect caused by retraction difficulty. The invisible four-needle bed computerized flat knitting machine is of double-needle bed structure. Two knitting needles are installed in each needle slot at the same time, that is, there are two knitting needles in the same needle position of the front and rear needle beds, which can turn over each other, but the total number of needles is twice that of the normal model. When the alternate needle weaving is used for fully fashioned knitting, the full needle knitting effect can be realized. In this paper, the local back drawing jacquard fabric is developed with the invisible four needle bed computerized flat knitting machine. The results show that the fabric is compact and the appearance effect is very close to the full needle effect, which realizes the full needle effect of double-needle bed knitting of fully fashioned sweaters.
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    Application progress on PEDOT:PSS in flexible wearable solar cells
    LÜ Dongfang, CAO Yimin, SONG Lixin, XIONG Jie
    Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (1): 40-53.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202204037
    Abstract1887)      PDF (2988KB)(429)       Save
    Poly(3,4-ethylenedioxythiophene): polystyrene sulfonic acid (PEDOT:PSS) which is a kind of conductive polymer with superior electrical conductivity and excellent flexibility, has great potential in the field of wearable solar cells. At present, more and more people are focusing on the application research of flexible solar cells in wearability, so as to solve a series of problems about flexible solar cells, including flexibility, specific power, portability and compatibility. PEDOT:PSS, as electrode and hole transport layer, plays an important role in the research of different flexible solar cells, which promotes the rapid development of flexible solar cells.
    As an electrode, PEDOT:PSS plays a different role in DSSCs, OSCs, PSCs, and the modification methods are also slightly different. In DSSCs, PEDOT:PSS has high room temperature conductivity and remarkable stability, which can catalyze the I 3-/I - redox reaction in solar cells. In terms of performance improvement, doping-based research ideas have been formed. The preparation process is simple, non-toxic, environmentally friendly and involve excellent electrocatalytic activity. In OSCs, the emergence of PEDOT:PSS can replace the traditionally expensive ITO, and the non-conductive component PSS in the polymer can be removed by solvent post-treatment and other methods, which significantly improves the conductivity of the PEDOT:PSS electrode. In PSCs, PEDOT:PSS can be used as a transparent substrate electrode and a top electrode of flexible PSCs, respectively. After further modification of PEDOT:PSS by doping or post-treatment, the conductivity of PEDOT:PSS as a conventional electrode is further improved, and its optical transmittance is further enhanced as a top electrode, which enables the performance of the battery device to ensure a high energy conversion efficiency. In terms of flexibility, compared with the traditional battery devices constructed by metal electrodes or ITO electrodes, the devices constructed by modified PEDOT:PSS can still maintain a level comparable to the initial efficiency after bending for hundreds of times, which provides a new idea for the development of efficient and stable flexible optoelectronic devices.
    As a hole transport layer, PEDOT:PSS is only used in OSCs and PSCs due to the different structures of solar cells. In OSCs, PEDOT:PSS has a wide range of advantages as a hole transport layer. Its solution processing characteristics make it suitable for large-scale production, and it has excellent performance in smoothing electrode interface and extracting holes. Post-treatment or doping is often used to solve the problem that the strong acidity of PEDOT:PSS leads to the low efficiency of the battery. On the one hand, the acidity of PEDOT:PSS is reduced, and on the other hand, the electrochemical and optical properties of PEDOT:PSS can be improved, thus greatly improving the efficiency of OSCs. In PSCs, PEDOT:PSS is widely used as hole transport layer materials due to its matching energy level with perovskite and suitable conductivity, and simple preparation at low temperature. After doping-based modification, the energy level between PEDOT:PSS and perovskite is more matched, the carrier mobility and hole extraction ability are improved, and the efficiency of PSCs is significantly improved. Through the optimization of the preparation process, the stability and mechanical flexibility are also well balanced, which makes flexible wearable PSCs possible.
    For flexible wearable solar cells, there are two primary problems: how to prepare high-efficiency and high-flexibility battery devices, and how to improve the stability of the battery while maintaining high efficiency and high flexibility. The application of PEDOT:PSS as electrode and hole transport layer in different flexible solar cells is becoming increasingly extensive. Researchers have continuously improved and optimized the electrode materials of flexible solar cells by such methods as doping, post-processing and so on. In these solutions, PEDOT:PSS has also made an irreplaceable contribution to the development of flexible solar cells, which is of far-reaching significance.
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    Research progress of fabric image processing methods based on convolutional neural network
    ZHENG Yuting, WANG Chengqun, CHEN Liangliang, WU Jiang, LÜ Wentao
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (5): 1-11.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202110050
    Abstract376)      PDF (1860KB)(427)       Save
    Fabric image recognition technology based on convolutional neural network has the advantages of autonomous learning, high accuracy and wide applicability, and has been widely used in textile industry production. This paper reviews the specific applications and research progress of defect classification, defect detection, image classification and image segmentation technology based on convolutional neural networks in the textile field. This article summarizes the improvement points, advantages and disadvantages of various network structures, and at the same time looks forward to the future research directions regarding the current problems. With the continuous optimization of network structure, image recognition methods have their own emphasis on real-time and accuracy, but their robustness and applicability still have a lot of room for development, and further research is needed.
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    Research status and progress of textile materials with sound-absorbing and sound insulation functions
    PAN Leilei, FAN Shuo, WANG Yuxuan, ZHANG Hongxia
    Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (6): 216-225.  
    Abstract202)      PDF (2166KB)(422)       Save
    As a global environmental problem, noise pollution seriously endangers people's physical health and quality of life, affecting sleep, damaging the hearing system, damaging cardiovascular system, causing mental system dysfunction, reducing work efficiency, and affecting children's intellectual development. Therefore, it is crucial to develop materials with sound absorption and sound insulation functions. The porous structure of textile materials endows them with sound absorption performance, making them widely used in the field of noise reduction.
    Textile materials, as porous materials, are based on a combination of sound absorption and sound insulation mechanisms. The sound absorption and sound insulation of textile materials includes three parts. The first part is that the incident sound wave is reflected. The second part is that sound waves enter the pores in the fiber material, causing air vibration and causing sound energy loss. The third part is the multiple reflections of sound waves in the material pores. The biggest advantage of textile materials compared to other flexible materials lies in their processing performance, which can be processed into various shapes, arranged regularly, and distributed evenly. Based on this advantage, textile materials can be combined with other materials to prepare composite noise reduction materials. Materials with sound absorption and sound insulation functions include porous materials, resonant materials, and damping materials. To improve the noise reduction performance of porous textile materials, textile materials are combined with resonance materials and damping materials. Three types of textile composite noise reduction materials can be generated through different construction methods: porous composite noise reduction materials, porous and resonant composite noise reduction materials, and porous and damping composite noise reduction materials. These three composite noise reduction materials can effectively improve the noise reduction performance in the mid to low frequency range and broaden the range of sound absorption frequency bands.
    Porous composite noise reduction materials can form three types of materials: multi-layer structure, sandwich structure, and gradient structure by laminating different materials. Porous and resonant composite materials are composites of fibrous porous materials and resonant materials, including thin plates, perforated plates, and microperforated plates. Among them, perforated plate resonance and microperforated plate resonance are the most commonly used resonant sound absorption methods today. In addition, noise reduction functional fillers are also widely used in textile materials, forming porous and damping composite noise reduction materials.
    The preparation of composite noise reduction materials by combining textile porous materials with other materials is still the research focus of current sound-absorbing and sound insulation functional textile materials. In addition, with the rapid development of technology and the requirements of sustainable green development, the recycling and reuse of waste fibers and the application of new technologies will be the main development trends in the future. The future sound-absorbing and sound insulation textile materials should develop towards the direction of structural diversification, material composites, intelligent methods, and green environmental protection.
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    Application progress of embroidery technology in smart textiles
    FENG Yuan, ZHOU Jinli, YANG Hongying, WANG Zheng, XIONG Fan, DU Lixin
    Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (1): 82-91.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202204021
    Abstract1779)      PDF (4824KB)(415)       Save
    Embroidery is a method of decoration on the surface of finished fabrics, which has a certain aesthetic value. As one of the most commonly used development technologies in the field of smart textiles, embroidery technology has great application value in smart textiles because of its excellent personalized customization function, process reproducibility and production efficiency. In recent years, with its unique processing advantages, embroidery technology has provided increasingly extensive research and development ideas for wearable devices, flexible electronic fabrics and other products, so it has been widely studied and applied in signal identification and transmission, biosensor and physical sensing.
    At present, with the gradual expansion of the smart wearable field in the market, flexible fabrics already have the functions of signal recognition and signal transmission. Compared with most fabric processing technologies, embroidery technology is remarkable in Tailored Fiber Placemen (TFP) function, which gives it an advantage in the preparation of flexible electronic tags and signal transmission lines. In terms of biosensors, embroidery technology has been one of the main methods to prepare fabric ECG electrodes and EMG electrodes. Users only need to wear smart textiles with integrated biosensors, and the sensors will be located in the corresponding monitoring position. The use of embroidery instead of weaving or knitting can make the design and shape of the electrode more personalized, so that it can adapt to different applications and monitoring scenes. Therefore, embroidery technology has high application potential in the field of intelligent wearable to monitor human bioelectric signals. Textile sensors can provide the evaluation of general parameters such as pressure, stress, temperature and humidity, and have great application value in structural monitoring and medical and health care. At present, many scholars at home and abroad have made good physical sensors such as stress sensor, temperature sensor and pressure sensor through embroidery technology. Embroidery has other important applications in the field of smart textiles, such as physiotherapy textiles and temperature-adjusted textiles.
    Intelligent textiles are a new product in the interdisciplinary research field. In addition to transmission and sensing functions, smart textiles have the structural characteristics of being multiple, multi-dimensional and multi-scale, but also show the characteristics of light weight, low modulus and skin affinity. With its unique processing advantages, embroidery technology provides more extensive research and development ideas for wearable devices, flexible electronic fabrics and other products, so it is used in intelligent textile research in various fields.
    At present, the application of embroidery technology in smart textiles has great potential, not only with powerful personalized customization and convenient fabric surface beautification and decoration, but also with good process reproducibility and structural dimensional stability, which can ensure the rapid prototyping of designed products and promote the quantitative production of new intelligent textiles. However, there are still some problems in the application of embroidery technology in smart textiles, such as the undiversified supply of conductive embroidery thread, insufficient applicability of printing software to intelligent textile design, and so on. The most important thing is to promote cooperation among embroidery and medicine, electronics, communications, materials, textiles and other disciplines, and constantly enhance and improve the functionality and practicability of the products. For this reason, it is necessary to strengthen the research and development of conductive yarns for embroidery, to study embroidery printing software and embroidery devices suitable for the design of intelligent textiles, and to promote cross-cooperation between embroidery technology and other fields.
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    Numerical simulation of melt spinning process of polyester industrial yarn
    ZHANG Wei, CHENG Wenkai, ZHANG Xianming
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (5): 52-59.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202201058
    Abstract194)      PDF (3476KB)(410)       Save
    In order to investigate the melt flow law of polyester industrial yarn during melt spinning, a model was built according to spinneret orifices used by enterprises and a numerical simulation of melt spinning process of polyester industrial yarn was carried out by adopting three-dimensional finite element method (FEM). The effects of the convergence angle, the aspect ratio and the distribution of inlet flow of the spinneret orifice on the temperature field, velocity field, shear rate and pressure field were compared and analyzed. The results show that the temperature field is insensitive to changes of spinneret orifice structure and is greatly affected by the inlet flow rate. When the convergence angle increases, the growth rate of velocity in transition zone increases. If the aspect ratio is too big, the shearing effect of the melt is strengthened by the die section, which is not conducive to the uniform distribution of velocity. The inlet flow rate has great influence on the melt flow state. Besides, it is the most conducive to the uniform distribution of weloaty when the spinneret orifice has an convergence angle of 73 ° and an aspect ratio of three.
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    Strategies for textile color innovative design in the era of color economy
    HE Xianwei
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (2): 113-117.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202106053
    Abstract159)   HTML14)    PDF (4330KB)(401)       Save

    Color plays an important role in textile design. Aiming to explore textile color innovation design strategy in the era of color economy, this paper firstly elaborates on the connotation and value of color economy, and analyzes the challenges for textile color innovative design in terms of sustainable design, concept alteration, color materials and processing technology, and proposes strategies for textile color innovative design. The research believes that by studying people's lifestyle, conducting in-depth market research, paying attention to scientific color matching, and attaching importance to the application of fashion color and traditional color culture, it is expected to provide reference for the innovative design of textile color.

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    Application progress of conductive fibers in the application of new textiles
    XIE Jinlin, ZHANG Jing, GUO Yuxing, ZHAO Zhihui, QIU Hua, GU Peng,
    Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (6): 241-254.  
    Abstract321)      PDF (7451KB)(397)       Save
    With the development of new science and technology, textiles are not limited to the applications of warm keeping and beauty. Extra functions such as sensing and indicating are the new trend of the 21st century and the concept of e-textiles and smart textiles emerges as the times require. Thus, conductive fibers have attracted extraordinary attention with the upsurge of interest in flexible and wearable health monitoring systems, energy storage devices and noninvasive human–machine interfaces. In the meantime, conductive fibers also show excellent antistatic and shielding electromagnetic radiation properties, which made conductive fibers the excellent candidate for wearable textile devices and industrial textile products. 
    In the 1960s, people began to develop conductive fibers for antistatic purpose, and different types of conductive fibers were gradually developed. So far, conductive fibers can be divided into three main types. The first type is fibers made by inorganic materials such as metals and carbon, but these fibers exhibit poor wearability and conductive instability. The second type is polymer fibers such as PPy and PANI, which show a good conductivity up to 103 S/cm.  However, the preparation process of fiber formation is quite complex because of the high toxic monomer, high molecular weight and oxidation. The third type is composite conductive fibers made through coating or blending fabric technology. By blending or coating conductive polymers, metals or other conductive materials (such as MXene and Graphene), the composite fibers can always inherit the benefits from both conventional fibers and conductive materials.
    Currently, the major researches of conductive fibers are focused on textile technology and materials science. Although there are some review articles on the similar topics, it is necessary to summarize the recent development of conductive fibers in the application of next generation textile products. In this study, we present a review of the classification and preparation techniques of conductive fibers, as well as the application and development of antistatic, electromagnetic shielding and flexible sensors in detail. Future perspective is given in the end, which could shed light in the conductive fiber research and industry, especially in the area of smart wearable devices. 
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    Recent advances in the fabrication and application of multi-functional super-hydrophobic textiles
    LI Huihui, WANG Qun, Jia Weike, WANG Jiping
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (3): 39-46.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202201026
    Abstract189)      PDF (1904KB)(367)       Save
    Multi-functional textiles with special wettability have attracted more and more attention for their potential application, and the proposal of "lotus effect" has furtherly attracted researchers' interests in the development of the special wettability. This paper firstly summarized methods forconstructing micro-nano structures on fabrics to adjust the special wettability, then made a representation for the superhydrophobic theory and applications in self-cleaning, oil-water separation and corrosion resistance (such as resistance to acid, alkali and salt solution). Finally, we summarized the critical issues existing in constructing superhydrophobic coatings and prospected their applications in the future.
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    Research progress on sustainable fashion consumption
    ZHOU Zeyan, XU Jun, SHAN Yufu, HAO Yan, LEI Zhenzhen
    Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (4): 1-10.  
    Abstract185)      PDF (1667KB)(365)       Save
    Sustainability is the focus of the fashion industry, but the research on sustainable fashion consumption is still very scattered, lacking of more systematic summary. Based on the above problems, this paper uses Bibliometrix to conduct a quantitative analysis and a systematic literature review of 140 articles published in the Web of Science from 2018 to 2022. As shown by the results, this field mainly conducts research from four themes: consumer perspective, business perspective, product perspective and industry perspective. Challenges in sustainable fashion consumption include pollution, complexity, incompatibility, ecological consciousness, social status and unfairness. Opportunities in sustainable fashion consumption include utilitarianism, hedonism, leadership influence, nostalgia, pollution management and adequacy. Future research can be carried out from the perspective of national characteristic culture, technology perspective, nostalgic perspective, infant perspective, and transnational perspective. 
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    Research progress of formaldehyde-free wrinkle resistant finishing agents for cotton fabrics
    LIANG Yajing, YAO Jinbo, FENG Mao, NIU Jiarong
    Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (1): 285-292.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202207061
    Abstract327)      PDF (1134KB)(359)       Save
    Cotton fabrics are popular for comfortable handle, good breathability, anti-static electricity and affordable prices, but they have the disadvantages of poor elasticity, proness to wrinkle, and can not maintain a smooth appearance in the process of wearing. In order to improve the poor anti-wrinkle properties of cotton fabrics, and conform to the philosophy of environmental protection, the research of formaldehyde-free anti-wrinkle finishing agents has been increasingly extensive and has become the basic requirement of the new technology of anti-wrinkle finishing. Based on the principle of anti-wrinkling, we summarize three kinds of formaldehyde-free anti-wrinkling finishing agents, namely polymer, molecular crosslinked and molecular crosslinked polymers.
    Polymeric anti-wrinkle finishing agents realizing anti-wrinkle by resin deposition are mainly chitosan polymers. There are many amino groups and hydroxyl groups in the structure of chitosan, which can be diffused and deposited well to the amorphous region of the fiber. The finished fabric has high strength retention rate, high dye uptake and excellent antibacterial properties, but it has some shortcomings such as poor wrinkle resistance, yellowing and poor hand feel. It needs to be mixed with other finishing agents or modified.
    Molecular cross-linked anti-wrinkle finishing agents realize anti-wrinkle by covalent cross-linking and mainly contain polycarboxylic acids, aldehydes and ionic crosslinking compounds. Esterification crosslinking occurs between polycarboxylic acid finishing agents and cellulose macromolecules in cotton fabrics, the finished fabric has excellent wrinkle resistance, good whiteness and washability, but the strength decreases obviously and the cost is high. The above-mentioned finishing agents are often used in combination with other anti-wrinkle finishing agents or mixed with new polycarboxylic acid anti-wrinkle finishing agents in order to obtain an excellent anti-wrinkle effect at a low cost. The aldehyde finishing agents have an aldolization with the hydroxyl groups on the cotton fabric. The finished fabric has high fastness to chlorine damage and low cost, but it has obvious strength loss, yellowing and a pungent smell. The ion-crosslinked finishing agents need the cotton fabric to be ionic modification before ion-crosslinking. The finished fabric has less strength loss and good whiteness, but poor crease resistance.
    The molecular cross-linked polymer finishing agents achieve an anti-wrinkle effect through the synergistic effect of resin deposition and covalent cross-linking, with the resins mainly including reactive silicone and waterborne polyurethane. The reactive silicone is often used as a modifier to improve the anti-wrinkle properties of other finishing agents, with good handle and high strength retention rate. The waterborne polyurethane can improve the wrinkle resistance of the finished fabric by improving its molecular structure, and enhance the strength and wear resistance of the finished fabric.
    In the future research of anti-wrinkle finishing agents, it is necessary to increase the research of green environmental protection finishing agents such as chitosan and waterborne polyurethane, so as to reduce the cost and broaden the function.
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    Research progress of dye transfer in household garment washing
    ZHANG Zhenzhen, LIANG Shuaitong, MENG Mingzhu, ZHANG Hongjuan, WANG Jiping
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (3): 31-38.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202106029
    Abstract166)      PDF (1542KB)(358)       Save
    Dye transfer is a common problem in home garment washing. The difficulty of dye transfer is closely related to dye structure, fiber types and other factors. In order to better solve the problem of dye transfer in household clothing washing, extend clothing style and life, and reduce the environmental pollution caused by dye transfer, the dye transfer mechanism, influencing factors and evaluation indexes are summarized. It provides basic information for the development and improvement of dye transfer inhibitors. Through the relevant research on the literature in recent years, the mechanism and inhibition process of dye transfer are introduced, the effects of dye structure, fiber types and washing process on dye transfer are described, the advantages and disadvantages of color evaluation and quantitative evaluation are analyzed, and it is pointed out that the current evaluation index of dye transfer has limitations, and the appropriate evaluation index should be selected according to the research purpose.
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    Research progress of coloring technology for meta-aramid
    SONG Jixian, JIANG Hua, CUI Zhihua, CHEN Weiguo
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (2): 9-17.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202105023
    Abstract305)   HTML12)    PDF (791KB)(353)       Save

    Meta-aramid is a new-type high-tech synthetic fiber widely used in flame-retardant clothing, military, aerospace and other fields due to its superior heat resistance, flame retardance and stability. However, it is hard for dye molecules to enter the fiber or combine with the fiber because of strong interaction between the aramid polymer chains, high fiber crystallinity, and strong chemical inertness on the fiber surface, resulting in poor property of aramid dyeing. Currently, aramid dyeing issues can be addressed by two means: develop new-type dyeing processes to improve the dye-uptake by increasing temperature, adding a carrier or using non-aqueous dyeing media instead; improve the dyeability through aramid modification. This paper reviews the current status of meta-aramid coloring technology, briefly introduces the fundamental principles and research progress of a variety of dyeing methods, specifically elaborates on the relationship between aramid structure and dyeing properties, and summarizes the challenges and application prospects of these dyeing approaches.

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    Research progress of electrospinning nanofiber-based sound-absorbing materials
    LI Xiao, LIU Yuanjun, ZHAO Xiaoming
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (5): 246-258.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202201033
    Abstract286)      PDF (2898KB)(352)       Save
    Noise pollution is a serious threat to people's physical and mental health. Electrospinning nanofiber materials are excellent sound-absorbing and noise-reducing materials. Based on this, a review of electrospinning nanofiber-based sound-absorbing materials is launched. First, the reason why electrospinning nanofiber materials are widely used in the field of sound absorption is explained: electrospinning technology involves simple equipment, abundant raw materials, controllable technology and low cost. Nanofiber materials have the sound absorption characteristics of high specific surface area and high porosity. Secondly, the authors briefly describe the sound absorption principle, influencing factors and test methods of the materials. Finally, the authors have a comprehensive discussion of three ways to improve the sound absorption performance of materials based on electrospinning nanofibers: composite structure, material modification and electrospinning nanofiber aerogels.
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    Preparation and properties of two-dimensional material MXene (Ti 3C 2T x)and Its application in textile field
    YAN Xiaofei, FANG Jie, ZHU Chenkai, LI Jiawei, ZHU Chengyan, QI Dongmin
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (2): 1-8.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202105030
    Abstract335)   HTML24)    PDF (3040KB)(350)       Save

    To facilitate the functional and intelligent application of MXene (Ti3C2Tx)in textile realted field, relevant domestic and foreign literature were reviewed to specifically elaborate on the preparation methods of MXene, including HF corrosion method, in situ-generated HF corrosion method, molten salt method, electrochemical process, and concentrated alkali method; the research progress of MXene in textile fields related to mechanics, electricity, flame retardant smoke suppression, energy storage were summarized in detail; the outstanding performance of MXene in intelligent fabrics and flexible sensors based on textile inks, fibers, and coating were concluded. Finally, this paper indicated the inadequacies of MXene such as poor dispersity in the resin matrix, the susceptibility to oxidation in the air, poor durability of use, as well as its future direction of development.

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    The film laminating technology and properties of PTFE composite filter materials
    NIE Sunjian, LIANG Yan, ZHOU Guanchen, YANG Dong
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (2): 85-92.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202012006
    Abstract213)   HTML16)    PDF (3288KB)(342)       Save

    In order to explore the preparation process and properties of polytetrafluoroe-thylene (PTFE) composite filter materials, by taking different types of PTFE membranes as the main raw materials, and non-woven fabrics as the substrate, PTFE composite filter materials are prepared with different film laminating methods. The effect of the types of PTFE membrane and film laminating methods on the properties of PTFE/non-woven composite filter materials, as well as difference between the properties of melt-blown cloth and PTFE/non-woven composite filter materials are studied. The results indicate that the PTFE/non-woven composite filter material prepared with PTFE-A membrane as the raw material has lower ventilation resistance than heat-cladded material and the filtration efficiency is up to reach 99%. The filtration efficiency and ventilation resistance of this material can satisfy the standard requirements for masks.

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    Performance analysis of polyester prepared by titanium catalyst
    HE Jialing, WANG Ying
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (3): 47-51.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202106014
    Abstract190)      PDF (1677KB)(340)       Save
    To address issues of yellowish color and inefficient viscosity increment of slice prepared by traditional titanium catalyst, a new-type titanium-based catalyst was prepared. A polyester slice with good color and low by-product content was successfully prepared based on the titanium-based catalyst. The slice can also be further used to prepare high-viscosity slices for industrial yarns through solid-phase polycondensation. Through polymerization of the self-prepared new titanium catalyst, a polyester slice with a viscosity of about 0.65 dL/g at a lower dosage (2.5×10 -5)was obtained. Its properties were studied using Ubbelohde viscometer, volumetric titration, DSC thermal analysis, etc. The results indicated that the polyester prepared by this means was good in color, with b value of as low as 1.17, much lower than that prepared by the existing titanium catalyst ( b value is 5.55). The carboxyl terminal concentration of the polyester was 16 mol/t, and the mass fraction of oligomer was about 2.0%. In addition, after solid-phase polycondensation at 230 ℃ for 8 h, its intrinsic viscosity reached 1.10 dL/g, with high efficiency in viscosity increment. This study can provide a useful reference for the large-scale application of titanium-based catalysts in polyesters.
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    Research progress of flexible composite conductive fiber in smart textiles
    ZHU Shiqian, TAN Yini, LIU Xiaogang
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (4): 1-11.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202108003
    Abstract318)      PDF (2710KB)(340)       Save
    The development and application of smart textiles are the concentrated embodiment of various high-tech textiles and have shown a trend of rapid development in recent years. As a research hotspot in the field of smart textiles, flexible conductive fibers have attracted much attention due to their excellent mechanical properties, outstanding electrical and optical functional characteristics. They have huge application prospects in flexible integrated electronics, such as flexible sensing and flexible electrodes. This paper reviews the current research progress of flexible composite conductive fibers, systematically reviews the classification, preparation methods and application status of conductive fibers, and prospects the main development trends and technical challenges faced by flexible composite conductive fibers.
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    Impact of virtual idol anthropomorphism on virtual apparel purchase intention
    LUO Linxiaoa, CHEN Lihong b
    Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (4): 268-285.  
    Abstract352)      PDF (1451KB)(337)       Save
    In recent years, virtual apparel and virtual idols are the hot topics that have emerged. The emergence of virtual apparel has broken the limitations of the traditional apparel industry, and designers can make consumers "wear" exclusive virtual apparel through modeling technology, creating a new opportunity for the future development of the apparel sector. At present, a mature business model has not yet been formed for the domestic virtual apparel industry, while a more mature business model has been formed for virtual idol industry and has strong relevance to virtual apparel. Many virtual apparel designers or studios began to try to use virtual idol endorsement in order to break through. However, there are some problems such as unsatisfactory endorsement effects for virtual idols in the process of apparel brand endorsement, which is mainly due to the inability to meet the audience's demand for their anthropomorphism in the early stage of exploration. Furthermore, there is little research on virtual idol endorsement of virtual apparel and the influence of anthropomorphism on the purchase intention of virtual apparel in the process of virtual idol endorsement of virtual apparel in the existing literature, which is necessary for for virtual idol companies and virtual apparel companies.
    First of all, the concepts of virtual idol anthropomorphism and virtual apparel were redefined, two variables of virtual idol anthropomorphism and parasocial interaction were introduced to explore the impact of the four dimensions of virtual idol anthropomorphism, namely appearance, moral virtue, cognitive experience and conscious emotionality on the purchase intention of virtual apparel, and the intermediary role of parasocial interaction in it is verified, which is groundbreaking in the field of virtual apparel endorsed by virtual idols. Secondly, this paper constructs an extended model of the Technology Acceptance Model, which expands the scope of the applied research of the Technology Acceptance Model. Finally, this paper conducts questionnaire survey based on the extended model, collects relevant data, analyzes its reliability and validity and uses the structural equation model for empirical analysis, which can provide theoretical support and scientific basis for virtual idol companies and virtual apparel companies. The results show that virtual idol anthropomorphism has a significant positive effect on the purchase intention of virtual apparel, in which the moral virtue and cognitive experience of virtual idol have a more significant impact on the purchase intention of virtual apparel than appearance and conscious emotionality; parasocial interaction, perceived ease of use, perceived usefulness and brand attitude have a chain intermediary role in the whole process. 
    According to the experimental results, when operating virtual idol IP, the companies should reasonably design communication events and plot short videos or live content, in order to focus on improving the anthropomorphic cognition of virtual idols in two dimensions: moral virtue and cognitive experience. It is sufficient to reach the market standardization level for the degree of appearance anthropomorphism. Meanwhile, the means to increase the degree of conscious emotionality anthropomorphism is costly but less effective. In addition, the companies can also play a role in increasing the purchase intention of virtual apparel by improving parasocial interaction, perceived ease of use and perceived usefulness.
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    Effect of spinneret structure on flow characteristics of polymer melt in melt spinning extrusion process
    SHEN Zekun, WANG Hui, YING Qifan
    Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (6): 80-91.  
    Abstract198)      PDF (5822KB)(335)       Save
    At present, the preparation of highly homogeneous polyester fibers is still a great challenge. The stability of melt flow in melt spinning process and the degree of non-uniformity of radial velocity distribution before extrusion affect the quality of subsequent spinning. In this paper, the flow process of polyester melt in microporous flow channel was studied by numerical simulation. The melt flow characteristics under different microporous structure of spinneret and different inlet velocity were analyzed. The non-uniformity coefficient related to melt velocity was proposed, and the influence mechanism of microporous flow channel structure parameters on the stability and uniformity of melt flow was further clarified. The spinneret structure corresponding to the optimum non-uniformity coefficient of melt flow is pointed out.
    With the increase of inlet velocity, the variation degree of melt average velocity before and after extrusion first decreases and then increases, and the flow is the most stable at 1 m/s. The time pressure drop is more stable when the inlet velocity ranges from 0.5 m/s to 1 m/s, and is more conducive to the internal stress of the primary fiber. The increase of flow velocity increases the average shear rate in the free section and strengthens the melt orientation. However, when the inlet flow velocity is 2 m/s and 3 m/s, the maximum shear rate in the flow passage reaches 105 orders of magnitude, and the possibility of melt fracture is higher, which is not conducive to the flow stability. The inlet velocity has little effect on the non-uniformity coefficient of melt flow when the spinneret geometry is unchanged. The study shows that the inlet velocity of 1m/s should be selected.
    When the die length-diameter ratio is 2 and 3, the average velocity before and after extrusion changes less, and the flow is more stable. When the length-diameter ratio is 2 and 3, the pressure drop is more conducive to the internal stress of the primary fiber. When the aspect to diameter ratio is 2,3,4, the average shear rate in the free section is high, that is, the melt orientation degree is high. However, when the aspect to diameter ratio is 2 and 4, there is still a maximum shear rate in the free section, which is easy to lead to melt fracture and is not conducive to flow stability. At the same time, as the melt is always in the fully developed section when the length-diameter ratio is increased, the thicker the boundary layer is, the more uniform the flow will be, and the non-uniformity coefficient will decrease. The results show that 3 spinneret is the best.
    When the convergence Angle is 54° and 74°, the average velocity before and after extrusion changes less, and the flow is more stable. When the convergence Angle is from 54° to 96°, the pressure drop changes stably with the maximum difference of 14.29%, which is within the reasonable range. The average melt shear rate in the free section decreases with the increase of convergence Angle, and the degree of melt orientation decreases. However, when the convergence Angle is 54° and 74°, the maximum melt shear rate in the center of the flow channel is small, and the melt is not easy to break, and the flow stability is better. At the same time, because the convergence Angle changes the radial velocity component at the entrance of the die, the influence on the flow uniformity is obvious. The results show that the spinneret with convergence Angle of 74° is the best.
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    Empirical analysis of the impact of digital economy on the upgrading of shaoxing textile industry
    WANG Ruirong
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (2): 118-126.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202102014
    Abstract238)   HTML15)    PDF (1092KB)(331)       Save

    Taking the data of Shaoxing prefecture-level cities from 2005 to 2019 as the object of research, this paper is focused on an empirical analysis of the impact of the digital economy on the upgrading of Shaoxing textile industry. As shown in the results, in view of the overall industry, the digital economy has a significant and positive impact on promoting the upgrading of the textile industry; in view of the industry segmentation, its positive promoting effect on chemical fiber manufacturing industry and textile industry is more significant than that on clothing industry, leather industry and footwear industry. In addition, the level of economic development can significantly and positively facilitate the upgrading of the textile industry, while human capital and policy environment exhibit a negative inhibiting effect, and foreign direct investment has no significant impact on the upgrading of the textile industry on the whole. Finally, this paper proposes corresponding policy recommendations based on the research conclusions.

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    Bibliometric analysis of literatures on textile and clothing footprint based on CiteSpace
    FENG Xiang, WANG Xiaopeng, QIU Xiaoxiao, WANG Laili
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (1): 9-17.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.20201100
    Abstract183)   HTML16)    PDF (6488KB)(323)       Save

    In order to study the current status and trends of literatures on textile and clothing footprints, this paper selected CNKI database and WEB OF SCIENCE database, and took journal articles on textile and clothing footprints between 2011 and 2020 as the data source. CiteSpace visual literature analysis tool was employed to analyze the keyword frequency, time zone view, cluster diagram, timeline view and burst terms, etc. of research on footprint in the field of textile and clothing. The results showed that: There were abundant studies on the accounting method, accounting data, case demonstration and other aspects of carbon footprint and water footprint, forming a relatively sound research network; research on chemical footprint started late and relevant studies are being further deepened and refined; Chinese literatures on textile and clothing footprints mainly focused on the accounting, assessment and application demonstration in the stage of industrial production; English literatures mainly focused on the perspectives of full life cycle and global industrial chain, quantifying and evaluating the carbon footprint and water footprint of textile and clothing. The relationship between the sustainable development of the industry, resource consumption and environmental pollution were also well investigated.

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    Study on dyeing properties of knitted cotton fabric by natural dye Viola Philippica
    WANG Linan, ZHANG Jun, FU Hongping, YU Zhicheng
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (1): 157-161.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202102001
    Abstract248)   HTML7)    PDF (1104KB)(323)       Save

    In this study, the Chinese herb viola philippica extract was selected as a natural dye to treat the knitted cotton fabric. The dyeing properties of the modified knitted cotton fabric, the dyeing methods and dyeing process parameters (dosage of ferrous sulfate, pH value, dyeing temperature and dyeing time) were optimized. The color fastness, UV resistance and antibacterial property of the dyed fabric were evaluated. The results showed that the one-bath mordant dyeing method was the best for the dyeing of knitted cotton fabric by the natural dye viola philippica. The optimal dyeing process was determined as follows: viola philippica 20 g/L, ferrous sulfate 2%(o.w.f), citric acid 0.5 g/L, a pH value of 6, 90℃ for 50 min. Under this condition, the color fastness to soap washing and friction of the dyed fabric reached level 3 or above. The color fastness to sunlight on cotton fabrics was better than most natural dyes and reached 3 level. The UPF value was still higher than 50 after 20 laundries. The antibacterial rates of the dyed fabric against Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus were 77.03% and 73.88% respectively.

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    Research progress on energy supply of wearable devices
    LIANG Jiawen, LI Tingting, YAN Zhanlin, ZHANG Bin, CAO Chongyang, FU Zhifang, CHEN Naichao
    Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (1): 28-39.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202207028
    Abstract1835)      PDF (2195KB)(323)       Save
    With the rapid development of artificial intelligence and Internet of Things technology, smart wearable technology has gradually matured and been widely used, and the demand for the sustainability and independence of smart wearable device energy supply in various industries is getting higher and higher. The limited design space of wearable devices is not conducive to the expansion of energy storage devices, and redundant power supplies will inevitably bring electronic waste and environmental damage. Therefore, the need to develop technologies that directly obtain energy from human physiology and the external environment so as to strengthen the independence of energy supply is becoming increasingly urgent.
    Currently, energy such as solar energy, ambient thermal energy, electromagnetic energy, and mechanical energy is harvested by micro-energy harvesting technology from the surrounding environment. Co-generator technology supplies energy to wearable electronic devices, and provides energy to energy supply equipment by converting micro energy in the external environment into electrical energy, such as friction generators, thermoelectric generators, mechanical and piezoelectric generators and solar cells. At the same time, the development of wearable technology is inseparable from the synergy with energy storage technology. Second, since micro-energy harvesting and energy storage require corresponding control and regulation circuits, it is necessary to develop system-level energy management strategies to improve their efficiency, reliability and practicality in wearable systems.
    With the development of energy supply technology, self-powered sensors can provide power to sensing devices. To enable implantable and sustainable wearable electronics, self-powered sensor technology integrates self-powering and sensing, solving the drawback that most current sensors cannot work independently and must rely on an external power supply. Using new micro-energy harvesting or energy storage or both, sensing devices can continuously collect more operational data in harsh environments and build powerful data analysis libraries.
    Technical research based on micro-energy harvesting and energy storage technology is an important foundation for the energy supply of wearable devices. In the future, researchers can collect more other clean energy and store it. While the diversity of energy supply technologies is expanded, the energy utilization efficiency is greatly increased. This offers great potential for energy supply for wearable devices.
    Flexible and small-scale energy-integrated devices have greatly promoted the innovative research of energy supply technology in wearable devices. So far, miniaturized devices, high-power efficient conversion, energy storage enhancement and other technologies have greatly promoted the application of wearable devices in industries such as inspection. In the future, a large number of wearable device energy supply operation data can be obtained, the operation law of the equipment can be more deeply grasped, and combined with intelligent algorithm analysis, a more intelligent, reliable, convenient and energy-saving wearable continuous energy supply device can be designed.
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    Impact of fashion brand image innovation on consumers' purchasing intention: mediation effect based on brand prototype
    JIN Yali, CHEN Lihong, CAI Jianzhong
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (3): 224-232.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202106072
    Abstract136)      PDF (1181KB)(319)       Save
    For an in-depth investigation of the mechanism of the impact of fashion brand image innovation on consumers' purchase intention, a relationship model is established based on the categorized processing theory, with brand prototype and brand emotion as intermediary variables, and empirically analyzed using questionnaire survey method. The results show that: the brand prototype dominates the main process from fashion brand image innovation to the formation of consumers' purchasing intention. Among them, the accumulated overall-level knowledge(brand prototype) has a direct impact on consumers' purchasing intention, and the accumulated attribute-level knowledge(brand emotion) has an indirect influence on consumers' purchasing intention. Finally, according to the research results, targeted suggestions are proposed for fashion brands to carry out image innovation activities.
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    Establishment and application of online shopping garment size recommendation system: take women's t-shirts for example
    NIU Mengmeng, WU Changjiao, LU Yehu, WANG Mingxing
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (3): 210-215.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202104026
    Abstract133)      PDF (1697KB)(309)       Save
    In view that consumers cannot try on clothing purchased online, resulting in poor fitness and high refund of clothing, with women's T-shirts as an example, through literature collection, expert interviews and empirical research, the clothing fitness ease threshold of the key parts of clothing and the judging criteria for different silhouettes were determined, and a complete size recommendation system was established on this basis, which stores information such as clothing specifications and dimensions, user' personal information in the system database. The system front end was designed using bootstrap framework and the back end was developed using C# language. Adopting quadratic function as the core algorithm, the system is feasible to realize intelligent recommendation of clothing size by calculating and comparing the function values of different sizes. Through experimental verification, it is proved that the accuracy rate of this recommendation system can exceed 88%. It is conductive to eliminating consumers' shopping doubts to some extent, lowering logistics costs, and promoting the development of apparel e-commerce.
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    Steam degumming process and properties of silk fabrics
    YE Yanli, GUO Jiaxing, FU Yaqin, CHEN Wenxing, JIANG Wenbin
    Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (1): 221-231.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202206038
    Abstract425)      PDF (4706KB)(308)       Save
    The culture derived from mulberry silk and its products has a long history. Silk fabrics are sought after by the public because of their characteristics of softness and fineness, soft brightness, flowing and draping, and skin-friendly property. Silk as a fabric raw material is composed of silk fibroin and sericin. Silk sericin is secreted by the silk gland of the silkworm and wrapped in the periphery of the silk fibroin, accounting for 20% ~ 30% of silk and playing a protective and sticky role. However, the presence of sericin can cause fabrics to feel stiff with poor softness, so most silk textiles on the market are refined to remove sericin. The principle of degumming is based on the difference between the characteristics that sericin is soluble in acid, alkali and hot solution, and that silk fibroin only swells but is not soluble in water, and the mulberry silk and its fabric are soaked in thermal degumming solution to realize the separation of sericin and silk fibroin. The common degumming methods will pollute the environment with the degumming waste liquid, and the sericin in the waste liquid is not easy to recycle, leading to the waste of resources. On the other hand, the storage conditions of biological enzymes are strict, which leads to the increase of degumming cost. Other degumming methods also have problems such as low debonding efficiency and high equipment requirements. Therefore, it is urgent to explore a degumming method that is efficient to clean and can be effectively controlled in mulberry silk fabrics.
    As heating changes water from liquid to saturated water vapor with extremely high energy and strong penetration ability, and the temperature of saturated water vapor is controllable, it also presents the advantages of efficient and uniform degumming in the field of hemp fiber degumming. Therefore, in view of the above problems, we proposed a new process of clean and efficient steam degumming without any additives and explored the controllability of degumming silkworm silk fabrics treated by water vapor, which can reduce the waste of water resources, avoid the pollution of chemical waste liquid and control the degumming effect. In this paper, the mulberry silk crepe de chine fabric was taken as the degumming object, and the degumming rate of the mulberry silk fabric under different conditions was analyzed by controlling different steam temperatures and steam degumming times by using a single factor experimental method. The steam degumming process that can be completely degummed was selected, and the sodium carbonate degumming method was used as the control group to analyze and compare the micromorphology, secondary structure, tensile properties and drape properties of the mulberry silk fabrics after degumming. The results show that at the steam temperatures of 105 ℃ and 110 ℃, the fabric degumming rate is linearly positively correlated with the debonding time. Under the conditions of 115, 120 and 125 ℃, the fabric degumming rate and degumming time are logarithmically functioned. When the steam temperature is 125 ℃ and the degumming time is 45 min, the mechanical properties of the silk fabric are the best, and the drape performance is slightly poor. The microstructure and secondary structure are not significantly affected, and the degumming efficiency increases by 45.83%.
    The new steam degumming process is feasible and controllable for the degumming of mulberry silk crepe de chine fabric and improves the degumming efficiency. This new degumming process makes it possible to replace conventional chemical degumming, and also provides a theoretical basis for the innovation of debonding methods in the industry.
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    Research progress and application of waterproof and moisture permeable membranes on textiles
    QIU Huili, YANG Qun, CUI Jin, PEI Liujun, HU Genghao
    Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (2): 244-.  
    Abstract243)      PDF (3846KB)(301)       Save
    Waterproof and moisture permeable membranes are a kind of functional membrane material with both waterproof and moisture permeability. Combined with fiber fabric, they can prepare functional textiles with unique protective properties, waterproof, breathable and moisture permeability. Currently, the moisture and heat transfer membrane materials used in human-environment interaction of wearable textiles mainly include polytetrafluoroethylene hydrophobic membranes, polyurethane hydrophilic membranes and electrospun fiber membranes. Therefore, the structure, preparation method, waterproof and moisture permeable mechanism and application of these three kinds of waterproof and moisture permeable membranes are reviewed. The research progress of of waterproof and moisture permeable membranes and their application trend in textiles are introduced, and the research focus of the future development on intelligent fabrics is prospected. 
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    Research progress on yarn tension sensors
    CHEN Chuanliang, WANG Chengqun, LÜ Wentao, XU Weiqiang
    Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (4): 32-41.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202111050
    Abstract160)      PDF (1482KB)(299)       Save
    In the process of yarn production, yarn tension is an important control parameter that affects product quality. To advance the research of yarn tension detection equipment, this paper classifies and summarizes the yarn tension sensors according to their structure and detection technology principle, and expounds on the technical principle and research content of various tension sensors. The advantages and disadvantages of contact-type and non-contact-type tension sensors and their application scenarios are summarized and analyzed. It is pointed out that the accuracy and sensitivity of contact-type yarn tension detection can be improved by improving new principles, exploring new materials, and combining new disciplines. In terms of non-contact yarn tension detection, the processing speed and accuracy can be improved through the innovation of the acquisition unit, the optimization of the information processing algorithm, and the combination of image processing hardware such as field-programmable gate array (FPGA) chip. This paper discusses the development status and trend of yarn tension sensors to provide a reference for yarn tension detection.
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