Advanced Textile Technology ›› 2022, Vol. 30 ›› Issue (3): 203-209.DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202112002

• ApparelEngineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Development and application of fully fashioned sweaters knitted on double-needle bed with full needle effect

LIU Yanan, LU Huashan   

  1. Hangzhou Vocational & Technical College, Hangzhou 310018, China
  • Received:2021-12-03 Revised:2022-03-09 Online:2022-05-10 Published:2022-05-26

双针床满针效果全成形毛衫产品开发与实践

刘桠楠, 卢华山   

  1. 杭州职业技术学院,杭州 310018
  • 作者简介:刘桠楠(1971-),女,山东潍坊人,副教授,硕士,主要从事针织服装设计、毛针织工艺等方面的研究。

Abstract: It is difficult for the traditional double-needle bed computerized flat knitting machine to achieve full needle effect when adopting alternate needle weaving to weave fully fashioned sweaters due to the long sinker loop of the coils and loose effect caused by retraction difficulty. The invisible four-needle bed computerized flat knitting machine is of double-needle bed structure. Two knitting needles are installed in each needle slot at the same time, that is, there are two knitting needles in the same needle position of the front and rear needle beds, which can turn over each other, but the total number of needles is twice that of the normal model. When the alternate needle weaving is used for fully fashioned knitting, the full needle knitting effect can be realized. In this paper, the local back drawing jacquard fabric is developed with the invisible four needle bed computerized flat knitting machine. The results show that the fabric is compact and the appearance effect is very close to the full needle effect, which realizes the full needle effect of double-needle bed knitting of fully fashioned sweaters.

Key words: fully fashioned, full needle effect, alternate needle weaving, double-needle bed, four-needle bed

摘要: 传统的双针床电脑横机采用隔针编织技术进行全成形编织时,由于线圈沉降弧较长、回缩困难导致织物稀松、难以实现满针效果。隐形四针床电脑横机同为双针床结构,在每个针槽内同时安装两枚织针,即前后针床同针位各具有两枚织针,可相互对翻,但总针数比正常机型多一倍,采用隔针技术进行全成形编织时,能够实现满针编织效果。本文以隐形四针床电脑横机开发局部背面拉网提花织物,结果显示织物紧密、外观效果非常接近满针效果,实现了全成形毛衫产品双针床满针效果的编织。

关键词: 全成形, 满针效果, 隔针编织, 双针床, 四针床

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