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Research progress of electronic fabrics in the intelligent wearable field YIN Yunlei, GUO Cheng, YANG Hongying, LI Hong, WANG Zheng Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (1): 1-12.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202207026 Abstract （2140）      PDF （6315KB）（577）       Knowledge map    Save With the development of human society and the progress of science and technology, intelligent wearable devices have attracted more and more attention. Among various types of smart wearable devices, electronic fabrics that combine fabrics with electronics are expected to play an essential role in health monitoring, motion monitoring, intelligent medical treatment, and human-computer interaction. At present, the application of intelligent wearable devices is becoming increasingly critical in People's daily life. Intelligent wearable devices are gradually developing towards flexibility and miniaturization to meet the characteristics of flexibility, lightweight, and effortless skin fitting. Textiles are one of the ideal choices for intelligent wearables because of their excellent flexibility, lightweight, and air permeability. Fabric sensors have excellent flexibility, air permeability, human body fit, and other characteristics and can be easily integrated with clothing. They have been widely used in sports monitoring, health monitoring, and intelligent medical treatment. In addition, fiber-shaped light-emitting electronic devices can be seamlessly integrated with textiles, allowing textile display, sensing, and camouflage applications. Moreover, luminous electronic fabrics play a vital role in transportation, security, anti-counterfeiting, clothing, and aviation. As the application of intelligent wearable electronic devices continues to expand, in order to ensure the sustainable operation of smart wearable electronic devices, it is essential to develop reliable, intelligent wearable power systems and energy management devices. Flexibility and comfort based on fabric are essential for intelligent wearable devices. Electronic fabrics can inherit the advantages of light weight, flexibility, air permeability, and a certain degree of ductility of traditional fabrics while having electronic functions. Currently, fabric electronic devices have been widely studied and used in sensing, luminescence, energy conversion, and energy storage. With further development, electronic fabrics may be combined with a variety of smart wearable devices in the future, bringing us a more intelligent life. As a new type of intelligent textile, electronic fabrics have excellent potential in the intelligent wearable field. In the future, electronic fabrics with unique structures and various functions are expected to be integrated into people's lives, which can not only meet the needs of daily wear but also serve the emerging fields of personalized health monitoring, motion monitoring, intelligent medical treatment, and human-computer interaction. Although electronic fabrics have made significant achievements in intelligent wearables, the performance, large-scale manufacturing, and unified technical testing standards of electronic fabrics are still the challenges facing the research and application of electronic fabrics in the field of intelligent wearables. Therefore, it is necessary to improve other electronic fabrics' design, function, and performance, so as to accelerate the further development of electronic fabrics in the field of intelligent wearables. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Technical measures for reducing the defects in polyester colored spun yarn LIU Jianlin Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (3): 117-121.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202107023 Abstract （1852）      PDF （992KB）（1064）       Knowledge map    Save In order to control the defects in the colored spun yarn, ensure the effect of fabric cover, and stabilize the fabric style, the production process of color spinning is optimized and improved. For example, a new cylinder clothing is selected for cotton carding while adopting flexible carding to reduce fiber damage. Drawing process is used to reduce the number of sliver doubling, reduce the total drafting multiple and drafting irregularity, stabilize the level of sliver and improve the fiber extended parallelization. In the spinning process, it is necessary to properly enlarge the roller spacing, increase the nip spacing block and reduce fine yarn defects. By adopting a series of process optimization measures, the defects of colored spun yarn are greatly reduced, the self-winding production efficiency is enhanced, the cloth quality is improved, and obvious results are obtained. The adoption of new carding equipment and process optimization measures has broken through the concept of "light weight and tight spacing" in traditional process, greatly reduced the defects in color spun yarn, and provided practical experience and innovative ideas for quality management and process research in color spun enterprises. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress of passive temperature-regulated clothing materials for personal thermal management HAN Mengyao, REN Song, GE Can, FANG Jian Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (1): 92-103.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202205055 Abstract （1720）      PDF （2688KB）（306）       Knowledge map    Save Textiles play a vital role in human daily activities and social development. With the development of intelligent technology and the growing demand for clothing functionality, textiles with various new intelligent functions, such as temperature control, sensor monitoring and color change intelligence are favored by people. In order to reduce the energy consumption caused by space cooling, people hope that textiles can create a comfortable microclimate to regulate the temperature. Since temperature regulating textiles can effectively regulate the human body temperature and wear thermal and wet comfort based on the human body temperature regulation mechanism, they have been widely studied and developed in recent years. This energy-saving and diversified personal temperature regulation technology is called "personal thermal management" technology. At present, textiles with personal thermal management performance can be divided into active temperature regulating textiles and passive temperature regulating textiles according to the energy source. Temperature regulating textiles can cool down or keep warm when connected to an external power source, which is "active". On the contrary, temperature regulating textiles can only rely on the characteristics of materials without additional energy, which is "passive". The active cooling system refers to the system that uses gas or liquid as the cooling source. Under the condition of external power (such as electricity), the cooling source flows to absorb human heat to achieve the purpose of cooling. There are various liquid (gas) medium embedded cooling systems. Similarly, as for the active heating system, the heating source is driven by an external power source to keep warm, with the heating methods including electric heating, solar heating, chemical energy heating, and phase change material heating. Passive cooling system means that no additional energy is required for temperature regulation. The passive cooling methods mainly include reflection (radiation) cooling, infrared transparent cooling, phase change material cooling, etc., while passive heating methods include reflection (radiation) heating, reducing heat conduction, light heat conversion, etc. We mainly introduce passive thermal insulation clothing materials such as new clothing thermal insulation materials, reflective (radiation) materials, far-infrared emission materials and photo thermal conversion materials, passive cooling clothing materials such as conductive cooling materials, phase change cooling materials, reflective cooling materials, mid infrared high transmission (emission) radiation cooling materials, and double-sided temperature regulating clothing. There are many kinds of passive temperature regulating clothing. Among various clothing materials, new temperature regulating clothing materials can achieve different radiant heat controls by changing the emissivity, reflectivity and transmissivity of the clothing, so as to regulate the clothing microclimate to achieve "all-weather" thermal comfort without consuming additional energy, that is, personal radiant heat management. Radiation cooling, radiation heat preservation and double-sided temperature regulating clothing materials have also become the focus of current research. Advanced passive temperature regulating textiles rely on the heat transfer characteristics of the system and the structural design of the material. They do not need any external energy input to regulate the microclimate between the human body and the external environment, regulate the human body temperature, and maintain the thermal balance and thermal moisture comfort of the human body. In recent years, scholars at home and abroad have studied passive temperature regulating clothing materials from the aspects of temperature regulating materials, temperature regulating mechanism, clothing structure design, etc., and successfully applied the research results to the market. However, the development of passive temperature regulating clothing materials at this stage still faces many challenges, such as clothing responsiveness and durability, wearing safety and ecological health issues, and lack of implementation standards and comfort evaluation. In general, passive temperature regulating textiles have huge application potential and development space in the field of maintaining human thermal comfort. Therefore, the research on intelligent temperature regulating textiles still needs to be further deepened in order to create new intelligent textiles more quickly. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Application progress on PEDOT:PSS in flexible wearable solar cells LÜ Dongfang, CAO Yimin, SONG Lixin, XIONG Jie Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (1): 40-53.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202204037 Abstract （1713）      PDF （2988KB）（253）       Knowledge map    Save Poly(3,4-ethylenedioxythiophene): polystyrene sulfonic acid (PEDOT:PSS) which is a kind of conductive polymer with superior electrical conductivity and excellent flexibility, has great potential in the field of wearable solar cells. At present, more and more people are focusing on the application research of flexible solar cells in wearability, so as to solve a series of problems about flexible solar cells, including flexibility, specific power, portability and compatibility. PEDOT:PSS, as electrode and hole transport layer, plays an important role in the research of different flexible solar cells, which promotes the rapid development of flexible solar cells. As an electrode, PEDOT:PSS plays a different role in DSSCs, OSCs, PSCs, and the modification methods are also slightly different. In DSSCs, PEDOT:PSS has high room temperature conductivity and remarkable stability, which can catalyze the I 3-/I - redox reaction in solar cells. In terms of performance improvement, doping-based research ideas have been formed. The preparation process is simple, non-toxic, environmentally friendly and involve excellent electrocatalytic activity. In OSCs, the emergence of PEDOT:PSS can replace the traditionally expensive ITO, and the non-conductive component PSS in the polymer can be removed by solvent post-treatment and other methods, which significantly improves the conductivity of the PEDOT:PSS electrode. In PSCs, PEDOT:PSS can be used as a transparent substrate electrode and a top electrode of flexible PSCs, respectively. After further modification of PEDOT:PSS by doping or post-treatment, the conductivity of PEDOT:PSS as a conventional electrode is further improved, and its optical transmittance is further enhanced as a top electrode, which enables the performance of the battery device to ensure a high energy conversion efficiency. In terms of flexibility, compared with the traditional battery devices constructed by metal electrodes or ITO electrodes, the devices constructed by modified PEDOT:PSS can still maintain a level comparable to the initial efficiency after bending for hundreds of times, which provides a new idea for the development of efficient and stable flexible optoelectronic devices. As a hole transport layer, PEDOT:PSS is only used in OSCs and PSCs due to the different structures of solar cells. In OSCs, PEDOT:PSS has a wide range of advantages as a hole transport layer. Its solution processing characteristics make it suitable for large-scale production, and it has excellent performance in smoothing electrode interface and extracting holes. Post-treatment or doping is often used to solve the problem that the strong acidity of PEDOT:PSS leads to the low efficiency of the battery. On the one hand, the acidity of PEDOT:PSS is reduced, and on the other hand, the electrochemical and optical properties of PEDOT:PSS can be improved, thus greatly improving the efficiency of OSCs. In PSCs, PEDOT:PSS is widely used as hole transport layer materials due to its matching energy level with perovskite and suitable conductivity, and simple preparation at low temperature. After doping-based modification, the energy level between PEDOT:PSS and perovskite is more matched, the carrier mobility and hole extraction ability are improved, and the efficiency of PSCs is significantly improved. Through the optimization of the preparation process, the stability and mechanical flexibility are also well balanced, which makes flexible wearable PSCs possible. For flexible wearable solar cells, there are two primary problems: how to prepare high-efficiency and high-flexibility battery devices, and how to improve the stability of the battery while maintaining high efficiency and high flexibility. The application of PEDOT:PSS as electrode and hole transport layer in different flexible solar cells is becoming increasingly extensive. Researchers have continuously improved and optimized the electrode materials of flexible solar cells by such methods as doping, post-processing and so on. In these solutions, PEDOT:PSS has also made an irreplaceable contribution to the development of flexible solar cells, which is of far-reaching significance. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation and reliability of wearable electric heating elements ZHANG Huirong, XIA Zhaopeng, CHEN Hao, PAN Jiajun, WANG Tao, LIU Xiaochen Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (1): 13-27.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202208029 Abstract （1702）      PDF （4712KB）（148）       Knowledge map    Save Wearable electric heating elements with high heating efficiency, adjustable heating temperature and long heating time are the key components of electric heating garments, and are widely used in personal heating, sports training and local heat therapy. In recent years, the industrialization of wearable electric heating elements has been accelerated because the preparation and performance of wearable electric heating elements with different materials have been researched in-depth. Such reliability problems as nontoxicity, breathability, flexibility, weight, safety temperature and lifecycle of wearable electric heating elements is commonly ignored. The wearable electric heating elements including metal materials, carbon materials, conductive polymers and MXene can be classified into one-dimensional (1D), two-dimensional (2D) and three-dimensional (3D) wearable electric heating elements. The 1D wearable electric heating elements can be prepared by multiple methods such as preparing metal wires directly with metal materials, composite heating lines, yarns with coating metal particles,and wet spinning with conductive materials. Although the 1D wearable electric heating elements have excellent spinning performance, the overall resistance can be changed because of fabric tightness, density of warp and weft, content of conductive yarn and the fabric strain. The preparation methods of 2D wearable electric heating elements include coating, soaking, chemical deposition and printing, and the heating performance of elements is related to the thickness and uniformity of the conductive layer. The 3D wearable electric heating elements can be prepared by two methods, including building the aerogel structure with the conductive layer obtained by depositing and building the aerogel structure directly with conductive materials. Although the favourable thermal insulation effect is shown in the 3D wearable electric heating elements, the overall resistance is significantly affected by the produced strain when the element is stressed. Metal 1D wearable electric heating elements and carbon nanotube 2D wearable electric heating elements are commonly used in industrial production. According to the modified conductive materials, the preparation of wearable electric heating elements with electromagnetic shielding, human infrared radiation and sensing is becoming a current research hotspot. However, it is easily overlooked that after the conductive materials are treated with different processes, the chemical residues in the elements may be harmful to human health. The safety voltage of human body is 36 V, and the minimum temperature for low-temperature scald which is caused by direct contact of human skin with heat source is 45 ℃. The scald risk is increased because the pain nerve response becomes dull in the hot and humid environment. Therefore, it is important to limit the applied voltage and maximum temperature of the elements and to ensure the breathability and comfortability of the elements. The excessive heating temperature is caused by uneven resistance distribution or unreasonable design of wearable electric heating elements, and the heating temperature shock is caused by the poor washability and wear-resisting property. The wearable electric heating elements are encapsulated by polymer in order to improve the washability and wear-resisting property, which has a series of negative effects on the elements, such as reduced flexibility, poor breathability and increased weight. Wearable electric heating elements have become one of the important ways to regulate human thermal comfort. Although increasingly in-depth research has been carried out on electric heating materials, the reliability of the prepared wearable electric heating elements still needs to be improved. Therefore, it is still a difficult point in this field to meet the requirements of safety and washability of components, as well as flexibility, air permeability and lightness. The industrialization of wearable electric heating elements can be accelerated by the in-depth research on the encapsulation process. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress on energy supply of wearable devices LIANG Jiawen, LI Tingting, YAN Zhanlin, ZHANG Bin, CAO Chongyang, FU Zhifang, CHEN Naichao Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (1): 28-39.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202207028 Abstract （1693）      PDF （2195KB）（194）       Knowledge map    Save With the rapid development of artificial intelligence and Internet of Things technology, smart wearable technology has gradually matured and been widely used, and the demand for the sustainability and independence of smart wearable device energy supply in various industries is getting higher and higher. The limited design space of wearable devices is not conducive to the expansion of energy storage devices, and redundant power supplies will inevitably bring electronic waste and environmental damage. Therefore, the need to develop technologies that directly obtain energy from human physiology and the external environment so as to strengthen the independence of energy supply is becoming increasingly urgent. Currently, energy such as solar energy, ambient thermal energy, electromagnetic energy, and mechanical energy is harvested by micro-energy harvesting technology from the surrounding environment. Co-generator technology supplies energy to wearable electronic devices, and provides energy to energy supply equipment by converting micro energy in the external environment into electrical energy, such as friction generators, thermoelectric generators, mechanical and piezoelectric generators and solar cells. At the same time, the development of wearable technology is inseparable from the synergy with energy storage technology. Second, since micro-energy harvesting and energy storage require corresponding control and regulation circuits, it is necessary to develop system-level energy management strategies to improve their efficiency, reliability and practicality in wearable systems. With the development of energy supply technology, self-powered sensors can provide power to sensing devices. To enable implantable and sustainable wearable electronics, self-powered sensor technology integrates self-powering and sensing, solving the drawback that most current sensors cannot work independently and must rely on an external power supply. Using new micro-energy harvesting or energy storage or both, sensing devices can continuously collect more operational data in harsh environments and build powerful data analysis libraries. Technical research based on micro-energy harvesting and energy storage technology is an important foundation for the energy supply of wearable devices. In the future, researchers can collect more other clean energy and store it. While the diversity of energy supply technologies is expanded, the energy utilization efficiency is greatly increased. This offers great potential for energy supply for wearable devices. Flexible and small-scale energy-integrated devices have greatly promoted the innovative research of energy supply technology in wearable devices. So far, miniaturized devices, high-power efficient conversion, energy storage enhancement and other technologies have greatly promoted the application of wearable devices in industries such as inspection. In the future, a large number of wearable device energy supply operation data can be obtained, the operation law of the equipment can be more deeply grasped, and combined with intelligent algorithm analysis, a more intelligent, reliable, convenient and energy-saving wearable continuous energy supply device can be designed. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Structure and properties of GNs/CNTs functional knitted fabrics SONG Qianqian, SHAO Yiqin, CHEN Weilai Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (1): 64-72.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202203039 Abstract （1646）      PDF （6811KB）（161）       Knowledge map    Save With the rapid development of electronic intelligent devices, intelligent textiles formed by the combination of electronic device systems and textiles came into being. Electro-thermal fabrics are a kind of intelligent textiles which convert electric energy into thermal energy through electric heating elements. The common heating element materials have some disadvantages, such as poor flexibility, limited heating temperature range and high power consumption. Among electro-thermal materials, the graphene nanosheets (GNs) and carbon nanotubes (CNTs) with excellent electrical properties enhance their thermal properties. For instance, the heat dissipation speed is fast, the ambient temperature is greatly increased, and the electrothermal conversion rate is nearly 100% with no luminous loss. Besides, the probability of power decay in the long-term use process is low, and the heating power is stable. Wearable sensors need to contact the human body directly or indirectly like existing textile fabrics, and the deformation range of human joints in daily activities is usually 3%-55%, which requires satisfactory elongation and deformability of the sensor. At present, most of the research on conductive heating fabrics is based on woven fabrics. On the contrary, the research on knitted structure with good flexibility is not deep enough. Knitted fabrics have high elasticity, high flexibility and recoverability because of its unique coil structure. They can achieve both high sensitivity and large deformation. Polyester knitted fabrics with the three different structures of weft plain weave, mesh weave and spacer weave were selected and GNs/CNTs functional knitted fabrics were prepared by the safe and simple spraying method. The surface morphology structure and mechanical properties of the fabrics were characterized by the Zeiss polarizing microscope, SEM and FTIR. The electrical properties and tensile strain sensing properties of the fabrics were compared and analyzed by using the electronic fabric strength meter and the two-probe digital multimeter, and the electro-thermal properties of the fabrics under different applied voltage modes were studied systematically by infrared thermal imager. The results show that GNs/CNTs uniformly adheres to the surface of the fiber and yarn in the state of intertwining and interlocking without forming a film on the surface of the fabric, and the fabric structure is clearly visible; GNs/CNTs functional knitted fabrics exhibit improved mechanical properties and satisfactory electrical properties and the electrical conductivity of the GNs/CNTs mesh fabric reaches 1,567 S/cm; at low voltages, GNs/CNTs compound knitted fabrics exhibit certain electro-thermal properties, which is related to the structure of fabrics. To be specific, weft plain knitted fabrics have the fastest heating rate and highest heating efficiency, and mesh fabrics can be heated to 116.3 ℃ at 10 V. Compared with the weft plain knitted fabric with a highest heating rate of 15.3 ℃/s, the temperature rising and cooling rates of the mesh and spacer fabrics are relatively low. At the same power, the average heating efficiency of the weft plain knitted fabric can reach 210.5 ℃/W, which is higher than that of the mesh fabric and spacer fabric. The preparation method of GNs/CNTs functional knitted fabrics is simple and effective and the knitted fabrics with different structures can meet the multi-scene applications in intelligent clothing, health care and other fields. The research results can provide references and suggestions for the design and development of intelligent textiles. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Application progress of embroidery technology in smart textiles FENG Yuan, ZHOU Jinli, YANG Hongying, WANG Zheng, XIONG Fan, DU Lixin Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (1): 82-91.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202204021 Abstract （1618）      PDF （4824KB）（270）       Knowledge map    Save Embroidery is a method of decoration on the surface of finished fabrics, which has a certain aesthetic value. As one of the most commonly used development technologies in the field of smart textiles, embroidery technology has great application value in smart textiles because of its excellent personalized customization function, process reproducibility and production efficiency. In recent years, with its unique processing advantages, embroidery technology has provided increasingly extensive research and development ideas for wearable devices, flexible electronic fabrics and other products, so it has been widely studied and applied in signal identification and transmission, biosensor and physical sensing. At present, with the gradual expansion of the smart wearable field in the market, flexible fabrics already have the functions of signal recognition and signal transmission. Compared with most fabric processing technologies, embroidery technology is remarkable in Tailored Fiber Placemen (TFP) function, which gives it an advantage in the preparation of flexible electronic tags and signal transmission lines. In terms of biosensors, embroidery technology has been one of the main methods to prepare fabric ECG electrodes and EMG electrodes. Users only need to wear smart textiles with integrated biosensors, and the sensors will be located in the corresponding monitoring position. The use of embroidery instead of weaving or knitting can make the design and shape of the electrode more personalized, so that it can adapt to different applications and monitoring scenes. Therefore, embroidery technology has high application potential in the field of intelligent wearable to monitor human bioelectric signals. Textile sensors can provide the evaluation of general parameters such as pressure, stress, temperature and humidity, and have great application value in structural monitoring and medical and health care. At present, many scholars at home and abroad have made good physical sensors such as stress sensor, temperature sensor and pressure sensor through embroidery technology. Embroidery has other important applications in the field of smart textiles, such as physiotherapy textiles and temperature-adjusted textiles. Intelligent textiles are a new product in the interdisciplinary research field. In addition to transmission and sensing functions, smart textiles have the structural characteristics of being multiple, multi-dimensional and multi-scale, but also show the characteristics of light weight, low modulus and skin affinity. With its unique processing advantages, embroidery technology provides more extensive research and development ideas for wearable devices, flexible electronic fabrics and other products, so it is used in intelligent textile research in various fields. At present, the application of embroidery technology in smart textiles has great potential, not only with powerful personalized customization and convenient fabric surface beautification and decoration, but also with good process reproducibility and structural dimensional stability, which can ensure the rapid prototyping of designed products and promote the quantitative production of new intelligent textiles. However, there are still some problems in the application of embroidery technology in smart textiles, such as the undiversified supply of conductive embroidery thread, insufficient applicability of printing software to intelligent textile design, and so on. The most important thing is to promote cooperation among embroidery and medicine, electronics, communications, materials, textiles and other disciplines, and constantly enhance and improve the functionality and practicability of the products. For this reason, it is necessary to strengthen the research and development of conductive yarns for embroidery, to study embroidery printing software and embroidery devices suitable for the design of intelligent textiles, and to promote cross-cooperation between embroidery technology and other fields. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress of ERPs technology in fabric tactile comfort evaluation ZHAI Shuna, YUAN Jie, LOU Lin Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (1): 73-81.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202203070 Abstract （1545）      PDF （1662KB）（93）       Knowledge map    Save People's health design requirements for the fit, functionality and comfort of wearable fabrics are gradually increasing, and the research on the perceptual mechanism of fabric tactile comfort is urgent. The event-related potentials (ERPs) technology with microsecond time resolution can quickly capture the changes of EEG signals related to fabric comfort, which is of great significance for exploring the dynamic perception mechanism of fabric comfort. ERPs technology can effectively monitor the relevant brain regions under the fabric contact stimulation in real time, so as to obtain the potential components related to the tactile comfort of the fabric. By recording the amplitude, latency and distribution of evoked potential components, we can quickly, objectively and accurately understand the psychological and physiological changes in the process of stimulation, so as to characterize the comfort level of human body. Specifically, the evoked potential components P50, P100, P200, P300 and N450 are characterization indexes of brain physiological response to mild tactile stimulation and contact pressure stimulation. In the process of application of ERPs technology, it is mainly affected by physical, physiological and psychological aspects. Physical factors include stimulation probability, stimulation frequency, stimulation mode, stimulation task difficulty and stimulus characteristics; physiological factors include age, gender, health status, sensory selection and stimulation site; psychological factors include subjects' emotional state and attention. At present, the evaluation of tactile comfort of fabrics based on ERPs technology has become a hot research topic. The amplitude and latency of its components can effectively evaluate the tactile comfort perception of fabrics, which provides great potential for in situ characterization of tactile stimuli of fabrics. Based on the brain perceptual representation principle of ERPs technology, we summarize the research status of ERPs technology in the evaluation of the fabric′s slight tactile comfort and contact pressure comfort. It is concluded that the components P50, P100, P200, and P300 are related to the fabric's slight tactile comfort perception, and N450 is related to fabric deep contact pressure perception. Many factors such as physics, human physiology and psychology affect ERPs evoked potentials. In the process of fabric contact stimulation, it is very important to master the quantitative influence of interference factors on brain evoked potentials, and to control and eliminate interference factors. It is very important to explore the characterization of fabric comfort by using ERPs technology in the future. We should further explore the brain potential components induced by surface property stimulation such as cold and warm feeling, clinginess and itching feeling and cross-sensory stimulation, and quantitatively study the stimulus and potential components of fabrics. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation of the fabric electrode and its application in spacer fabric-based triboelectric nanogenerators ZHOU Suibo, WANG Zheshan, HU Jianchen, ZHANG Keqin Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (1): 54-63.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202204060 Abstract （1531）      PDF （5804KB）（134）       Knowledge map    Save The integration of triboelectric nanogenerator (TENG) technology and traditional textiles has brought new vitality and more application directions for intelligent textiles, in which the fabric electrode provides a conductive layer for TENGs. In recent years, the studies of TENGs mainly focus on electrode materials, friction materials and structural design, while the studies on conductive layers in the related research fields of spacer fabric TENGs are relatively few. It is helpful for the application of spacer fabric-based TENGs to prepare spacer fabric TENGs by referring to the construction method of fabric electrodes in common fabric-based TENGs. Apart from the basic function of converting mechanical energy into electrical energy, the spacer fabric-based TENGs can also be used as a self-powered sensor in many directions, such as human motion detection, foot pressure sensing and gas monitoring. At present, in addition to conducting yarn weaving and dipping conductive materials to construct fabric electrodes, a relatively stable conductive layer can be formed on the fabric through physical vapor deposition, chemical vapor deposition, electroplating or electrodeless plating to be applied to TENGs, which provides some examples for the construction of suitable fabric electrodes for spacer fabric-based TENGs. However, the existing fabric electrodes of spacer fabric-based TENGs are mainly woven by dipping or conductive yarn weaving machines. Although they can effectively give the fabric a certain conductivity and achieve mass production, their conductive layer stability is greatly limited. The output of the fabric-based TENGs is still at a low level. The charge density on the surface of the friction layer is an important factor that determines the performance of all TENGs. However, the charge collection and transmission of the electrode layer only need to be conductive to ensure a certain output. Therefore, most researchers often neglect the influence of the fabric electrode layer on the output. There is a potential resistance range in the fabric electrode layer, even if the conductivity is improved, the total amount of saturated stored charges cannot be changed, and the micro conductive path structure of the fabric that transmits charges also directly affects the output performance, which provides a theoretical basis for spacer fabric-based TENGs to improve the output so as to facilitate their practical application. Based on the study of the conductive layer and special spacer fabric structure of fabric-based TENGs, we summarize the preparation methods of fabric electrodes and their application in the spacer fabric-based TENG, and discuss the potential difficulties and severe challenges of fabric electrodes hindering its output. It hoped that this review can not only deepen the connection between smart textiles and TENGs to a certain extent, but also provide some references for the relevant research and application of wearable TENGs in the future. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Development and application of VR/AR technology in the apparel industry FANG Chaoyi, HE Jiazhen Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (6): 166-175.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202202009 Abstract （348）      PDF （1283KB）（290）       Knowledge map    Save To further promote the digital development of the clothing industry and broaden the application of virtual reality (VR) and augmented reality (AR) technologies in the apparel industry, this paper introduces the specific technologies involved in VR/AR and their development trajectories and summarizes the main applications of VR/AR technology. With a focus on the entire chain of apparel industry, VR/AR technology is used to assist fabric design, clothing style and structure design during the design stage; this technology can be applied to simulate the actual usage scenario of the clothing and evaluate the thermal comfort in a virtual scene during the performance evaluation stage; the technology can be used to enhance the visual experience of virtual catwalk show and virtual fitting during the marketing planning stage. Finally, this paper summarizes and looks forward to VR/AR technology from the aspects of hardware and software, and points out that algorithm upgrade and application ecological construction are the future development directions. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress on preparation of alginate fiber and its application in textiles LIU Xiulong, WANG Yunyi Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (1): 26-35.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202103041 Abstract （292）   HTML （29）    PDF （1169KB）（435）       Knowledge map    Save The preparation methods of alginate fiber include wet spinning, electrostatic spinning, microfluidic spinning and centrifugal spinning. Among them, alginate fiber prepared by wet spinning has poor mechanical properties, salt and detergent resistance and dyeing properties, which hinder its large-scale application in the field of textiles and garments. Through fiber modification and functional transformation, the properties of alginate fiber prepared by wet spinning can be improved, and its application scope in the field of textiles and garments can be expanded. From three aspects: alginate fiber preparation, property modification and development of functional alginate fiber for textiles, this paper compared differences among preparation methods of alginate fiber, and summed up modification methods of mechanical properties, salt and washing resistance and dyeing properties of alginate fiber for textiles, types of functional alginate fiber for textiles. Lastly, it was pointed out that the industrial application of the preparation methods and research findings of functional alginate fiber are the direction for future development. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress of clothing image generation based on Generative Adversarial Networks SHI Qian, LUO Ronglei Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (2): 36-.   Abstract （285）      PDF （2912KB）（177）       Knowledge map    Save The depth generation model mainly includes Deep Belief Network (DBN), Variational SelfEncoder (VAE) and Generative Adversarial Network (GAN). GAN, as a popular indepth learning framework in recent years, constructs two networks G and D which are mutually antagonistic and game, so that they can achieve Nash equilibrium through continuous iterative training and then realize the automatic generation of images. GAN can be applied in many fields, including semisupervised learning, sequence data generation, image processing, domain adaptation, etc. The image processing field can be subdivided into multiple scenes, such as image generation, image superresolution, image style transformation, object transformation and object detection. The most widely used and successful part of GAN in image processing is image generation. Clothing image generation based on 5G, big data, depth learning and other technologies can effectively promote the digital development process of apparel ecommerce. Conditional Generative Adversarial Network (CGAN) implements constraints on sample generation by adding constraint condition Y to GAN. CGAN can direct the generator to synthesize data in a directional way against expected samples. Therefore, CGAN is an effective model to realize automatic generation of clothing images that meet specific needs. During the training, the generator learns to generate realistic samples matching the labels of the training data set, and the discriminator learns to match the correct labels for the identified real samples. At present, the public clothing data sets that can be applied to clothing image generation mainly include FashionMNIST, Deep Fashion, Fashion AI, etc. According to the data morphology classification of the input model and the output model, the main forms of CGAN implementation in the clothing field are TexttoImage, ImagetoImage and ImagetoVideo. The three data synthesis forms respectively contain various derived GAN models, which correspond to different clothing generation application scenarios. TexttoImage aims to generate the required clothing image based on the given description text, which can be specifically applied to a given model change, clothing texture rendering, character pose and clothing attribute generation, clothing category and background classification; ImagetoImage is mostly applied in clothing design, such as clothing pattern design, clothing image conversion (from sketch to cartoon clothing, model to dress), style transfer, virtual fitting, fashion trend forecast, etc.; ImagetoVideo is usually applied to facial expression video frame prediction, anonymous model video generation, virtual fitting and other scenes. In recent years, research on GANapplied clothing image generation industry is mostly distributed in the field of ecommerce, including automatic generation of clothing banner advertisements, personalized clothing recommendation system, clothing and pattern design, virtual fitting towards video presentation, etc., which greatly enables the upgrading of related digital clothing industry. However, the industry is still facing the problems of single utility of generation model, narrow application of clothing data set and lack of objective and unified criteria for generation evaluation. The research in the future will focus on the research and development of integrated multimodal generation model, the collection of largescale clothing data sets, and the development of objective criteria for clothing image generation and evaluation. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Application progress of 3D virtual fitting technology in fashion design and performance evaluation XUE Xiaoyu, HE Jiazhen, WANG Min Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (2): 12-.   Abstract （277）      PDF （2347KB）（162）       Knowledge map    Save 3D garment virtual fitting technology is a computer technology that can convert 2D garment patterns into 3D models. This technology has wide applications in the garment industry due to its advantages of high efficiency, low cost, and high simulation accuracy. Enterprises or research institutions can use it to quickly obtain garment fitting effects. Additionally, the performance of garments can be predicted and evaluated through this technology, thus greatly reducing the cost of garment development. The 3D virtual fitting technology composition mainly includes three parts: 3D body measurement technology, 3D body modeling technology, and 3D garment modeling technology. These three parts together determine the final simulation effect. Data driving, machine learning, and other technologies enable computers to identify, segment, and process the data obtained from body measurements more efficiently. At the same time, many parametric human models and clothing generation models suitable for interactive scenarios have emerged. The structure design, print design, and customercentered modular collaborative design method Based on 3D virtual fitting technology make the garment design and development progress more efficient. Using 3D virtual fitting technology to invert the 3D model of garments not only makes it possible to obtain 2D patterns of complex threedimensional shapes, but also precisely locate and divide prints on the patterns. The customercentered modular collaborative design mode employs modularized design. This mode provides a communication platform for customers, designers, and evaluation experts so that they can collaborate to complete the design and obtain a product that satisfies customers. For apparel aesthetics evaluation, by building a virtual garment drape test platform based on 3D virtual fitting technology, a rapid evaluation of garment drapability can be achieved. In the garment fit evaluation area, studies have used the key pressure points of virtual garments and body dimensions obtained through 3D virtual fitting technology as input data to train a neural networkbased garment fit prediction model. The prediction accuracy is influenced by the type and scale of the input parameters and model algorithm. For garment comfort evaluation, studies mainly focus on pressure comfort evaluation, and its accuracy is influenced by factors such as the sampling method, number of key points, and state of wearers. In addition, the air layer distribution under the garment obtained through 3D virtual fitting technology can also be used to evaluate the thermal and moisture comfort of garments, but the overall accuracy is not high enough. In the postepidemic era, 3D virtual fitting technology faces corresponding challenges while having broad application prospects. In the future, it is necessary to standardize and unify the parameters of virtual fabrics. When evaluating garments, researchers should build virtual models with human soft tissue characteristics in specific scenarios and take the physical characteristics of garment parts into account. In addition, through the introduction of artificial intelligence, deep learning, and other technologies, it is possible to optimize and realize automatic sampling. Then, we build a whole performance evaluation model for virtual garments to improve evaluation accuracy and efficiency. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Steam degumming process and properties of silk fabrics YE Yanli, GUO Jiaxing, FU Yaqin, CHEN Wenxing, JIANG Wenbin Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (1): 221-231.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202206038 Abstract （270）      PDF （4706KB）（193）       Knowledge map    Save The culture derived from mulberry silk and its products has a long history. Silk fabrics are sought after by the public because of their characteristics of softness and fineness, soft brightness, flowing and draping, and skin-friendly property. Silk as a fabric raw material is composed of silk fibroin and sericin. Silk sericin is secreted by the silk gland of the silkworm and wrapped in the periphery of the silk fibroin, accounting for 20% ~ 30% of silk and playing a protective and sticky role. However, the presence of sericin can cause fabrics to feel stiff with poor softness, so most silk textiles on the market are refined to remove sericin. The principle of degumming is based on the difference between the characteristics that sericin is soluble in acid, alkali and hot solution, and that silk fibroin only swells but is not soluble in water, and the mulberry silk and its fabric are soaked in thermal degumming solution to realize the separation of sericin and silk fibroin. The common degumming methods will pollute the environment with the degumming waste liquid, and the sericin in the waste liquid is not easy to recycle, leading to the waste of resources. On the other hand, the storage conditions of biological enzymes are strict, which leads to the increase of degumming cost. Other degumming methods also have problems such as low debonding efficiency and high equipment requirements. Therefore, it is urgent to explore a degumming method that is efficient to clean and can be effectively controlled in mulberry silk fabrics. As heating changes water from liquid to saturated water vapor with extremely high energy and strong penetration ability, and the temperature of saturated water vapor is controllable, it also presents the advantages of efficient and uniform degumming in the field of hemp fiber degumming. Therefore, in view of the above problems, we proposed a new process of clean and efficient steam degumming without any additives and explored the controllability of degumming silkworm silk fabrics treated by water vapor, which can reduce the waste of water resources, avoid the pollution of chemical waste liquid and control the degumming effect. In this paper, the mulberry silk crepe de chine fabric was taken as the degumming object, and the degumming rate of the mulberry silk fabric under different conditions was analyzed by controlling different steam temperatures and steam degumming times by using a single factor experimental method. The steam degumming process that can be completely degummed was selected, and the sodium carbonate degumming method was used as the control group to analyze and compare the micromorphology, secondary structure, tensile properties and drape properties of the mulberry silk fabrics after degumming. The results show that at the steam temperatures of 105 ℃ and 110 ℃, the fabric degumming rate is linearly positively correlated with the debonding time. Under the conditions of 115, 120 and 125 ℃, the fabric degumming rate and degumming time are logarithmically functioned. When the steam temperature is 125 ℃ and the degumming time is 45 min, the mechanical properties of the silk fabric are the best, and the drape performance is slightly poor. The microstructure and secondary structure are not significantly affected, and the degumming efficiency increases by 45.83%. The new steam degumming process is feasible and controllable for the degumming of mulberry silk crepe de chine fabric and improves the degumming efficiency. This new degumming process makes it possible to replace conventional chemical degumming, and also provides a theoretical basis for the innovation of debonding methods in the industry. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress in the prediction of heat transfer properties of fabrics based on structural characteristics LI Jinyu, YANG Yunchu, LIU Mingming Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (1): 18-25.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202104011 Abstract （257）   HTML （37）    PDF （2027KB）（368）       Knowledge map    Save In order to predict the heat transfer properties of fabrics accurately, design fabrics better, and improve the thermal comfort of fabrics, the prediction models of heat transfer properties related to the structural parameters and internal characteristics of fabrics are introduced from different modeling methods, including statistical model, artificial neural network model, mathematical theoretical model and finite element model, the characteristics and application scope of different kinds of prediction models are analyzed. The research status of heat transfer simulation of fabrics at home and abroad in recent years is reviewed. Besides, the heat transfer model and research progress of fabrics containing moisture and fabrics containing phase change materials are summarized. Based on the above literature analysis, it is pointed out that the heat transfer properties of fabrics can be enhanced by optimizing the structural characteristics of fabrics, and the development trend of studies on the prediction of heat transfer properties of fabrics is proposed, so as to provide a new idea for the research of thermal comfort of garments. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress of fabric image processing methods based on convolutional neural network ZHENG Yuting, WANG Chengqun, CHEN Liangliang, WU Jiang, LÜ Wentao Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (5): 1-11.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202110050 Abstract （257）      PDF （1860KB）（265）       Knowledge map    Save Fabric image recognition technology based on convolutional neural network has the advantages of autonomous learning, high accuracy and wide applicability, and has been widely used in textile industry production. This paper reviews the specific applications and research progress of defect classification, defect detection, image classification and image segmentation technology based on convolutional neural networks in the textile field. This article summarizes the improvement points, advantages and disadvantages of various network structures, and at the same time looks forward to the future research directions regarding the current problems. With the continuous optimization of network structure, image recognition methods have their own emphasis on real-time and accuracy, but their robustness and applicability still have a lot of room for development, and further research is needed. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Circumference fit of characteristicparts based on the morphological classification of young women’s Lower limbs XU Kaiyi, ZHONG Zejun, CAI Xiaoyu, GU Bingfei Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (1): 204-211.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202012018 Abstract （241）   HTML （170）    PDF （2355KB）（193）       Knowledge map    Save In order to achieve the automatic generation of personalized pant templates, this study discussed the classification method of morphologies of young women's lower limbs and set up a circumference prediction model at five characteristic parts of human body, that is, the waist, abdomen, hip, thigh and knee. The point cloud data of 202 female college students were obtained by the U.S. [TC]2 3D human body scanner, and relevant morphological parameters, i.e., circumference, width and thickness of each characteristic part were measured. Then the morphologies were divided into three types: oblong, round, and prolate, and four morphological indicators were proposed: VDwh(representing the relative protrusion of waist and hip), Dbw(representing the depression degree in the lower waist), HDht(representing the standing posture), and Atk(representing the leg type). Based on the classification results of morphologies, the morphology of "round" was selected to analyze the width, thickness and circumference of five characteristic parts under this morphology and a regression equation of the circumferences at the characteristic parts were established. The calculation models were verified through a comparison with the manual data. The results show that except that the maximum error at the thigh is 1.98cm, the absolute values of the errors between the predicted circumference values of characteristic parts and manual data are all within the range of 1.5cm, which shows that this circumference prediction method has high accuracy. The present study provides some technical support for the automatic generation of personalized pant templates for young women based on photos. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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A quantitative analysis of cotton/polyester/spandex composite fabricthrough hydrochloric acid-sulfuric acid process ZHANG Hongkang, ZHANG Yunjuan, ZHOU Zhaoyi Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (2): 63-67.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202103015 Abstract （223）   HTML （14）    PDF （1047KB）（162）       Knowledge map    Save In order to optimize the method of quantitative analysis of cotton/polyester fiber/spandex blend fabric, a hydrochloric acid-sulfuric acid process was designed according to newly issued national standard Textiles-Quantitative Chemical Analysis-Mixtures of Elastane and Some Other Fibers (GB/T 38015—2019): 20% HCl was used to dissolve cotton at 70℃ for 30 min, and then 75% H2SO4 was adopted to dissolve spandex at 50 ℃ for 1 h. Next, the mass fraction of each component was obtained according to the mass loss, thus the quantitative analysis of cotton/polyester fiber/spandex blend fabric was completed. In this paper, 10 different specifications of cotton/polyester fiber/spandex blend fabric were quantitatively analyzed through hydrochloric acid-sulfuric acid process, and then compared with the traditional split-75% H2SO4 method and DMF-75% H2SO4 method. The results revealed that the quality correction coefficient of polyester fiber in 20% HCl (70 ℃, 30 min)was 1.00, and the newly designed hydrochloric acid-sulfuric acid process was proved to be feasible, with the advantages of easy operation and accurate data. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Contrastive analysis on young male college students boby type between bangladesh and China ZHANG Beibei, XU Kexin, Md Kawysar Ahmed, XIA Yuanping, JIN Shouning, GU Bingfei Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (1): 194-203.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202012008 Abstract （215）   HTML （247）    PDF （2665KB）（144）       Knowledge map    Save In order to analyze the differences between young male college students in Bangladesh and China in terms of body shape, the overall and local body shapes of young male college students in Bangladesh and China were compared and classified. The body parameters of 200 Chinese young male college students and 200 Bangladeshi young male college students were obtained through manual measurement and 3D measurement, and the overall and local body shapes of young male college students in Bangladesh and China were compared and analyzed. As for the overall body shape, the similarities and differences between young male college students in two countries in national standards and overall shape characteristics were analyzed. As for the local body shape, the body shapes of three main characteristic parts of human body, that is, shoulder, chest and waist-hip, were divided into 3 categories for comparative analysis. The research results show that there is a big difference between young male college students in Bangladesh and China in body shape. Chinese young male college students are thinner in overall body type, with obvious body curve, wide shoulder, large curvy chest and rounded hip, and the most Bangladeshi young male college students are well-proportioned, with flat body curve, narrow shoulder, large and flat chest, large waist-hip circumference, flat hip and bulgy abdomen. The results of this study can offer a body shape basis for making garment patterns for young male college students in China and Bangladesh. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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The yarn laying process during yarn adjusting on seamless underwear machines GUO Xuanli, PENG Laihu, DAI Ning, HU Xudong Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (5): 149-156.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202112050 Abstract （210）      PDF （3539KB）（98）       Knowledge map    Save The yarn laying process of the seamless underwear machines’yarn adjusting mechanismdirectly affects whether the knitting needle can hook the yarn stably, and then affects the quality of the knitted fabric. As for the yarn leakage and even the needle firing during the yarn adjustment process of the existing seamless underwear machines, the main reason is that the knitting needle participates in the knitting prematurely when the yarn is adjusted and the fingers are changed. The time required for the yarn adjusting fingers to enter the safe yarn area alternately lacks quantitative research. In order to solve this problem, the reliable lay-up height range of eight groups of yarn adjusting fingers was calculatedaccording to the geometric relationship between the yarn adjusting mechanism and the yarn, and time required for each group of yarn adjusting fingers to safely enter the yarn laying area after changing was calculated by combining the longitudinal movement trajectory of the eight groups of adjusting fingers taken by the high-speed camera. The results provide a theoretical and experimental basis for the improvement of yarn adjusting mechanisms in the future. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Quantitative assessment and cause analysis of white scratches on polyester fabrics after stiff finishing WU Die, MI Yifang, CHENG Xiaoxia, YANG Xiaobo, LAN Shuxian, CAO Zhihai Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (3): 186-195.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202104057 Abstract （205）      PDF （14405KB）（53）       Knowledge map    Save To address issues of white scratches on polyester fabrics after stiff finishing fabrics, two polyester fabrics with different deniers and weaving tightness were selected as the object of study to establish a white mark quantitative assessment method by using rubbing fastness tester and color measuring spectrometer. The two polyester fabrics and the surface damage after stiff finishing were studied by simulating scratches in different directions. The results indicate that the color light test results can be used for a quantitative characterization of the degree of white scratches. The white scratches could be seen obviously when the Δ L value (the difference in surface brightness)before and after scratching was greater than 3, which may be caused by optical behavior changes arising from the deformation, breakage and falling of the fiber and the film. The research has found that different damages to the warp and weft fibers and yarns in the direction of the scratching would cause different white scratches. In summary, the white scratches caused by scratching along the direction of cloth yarn density with large elasticity were severer relatively. In addition, the formation of white scratches is of selectivity to different kinds of fabrics. White scratches are more likely to be left on fabrics with smaller fineness and larger tightness after scratching. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research status of electromagnetic shielding fabrics JI Yu, LIU Yuanjun, ZHAO Xiaoming, HOU Shuo Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (3): 1-12.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202106055 Abstract （203）      PDF （1666KB）（327）       Knowledge map    Save Electromagnetic shielding can effectively protect against electromagnetic waves due to its interference with the normal operation of electronic and electrical equipment and its detriment to human health. Electromagnetic shielding fabric with excellent electromagnetic shielding properties and fabric properties is considered as an ideal material for electromagnetic shielding. Firstly, the shielding mechanism of electromagnetic shielding fabric is introduced. Secondly, the classification of electromagnetic shielding fabrics is briefly elaborated. Then the progress of preparing electromagnetic shielding fabrics by metal fibers, conductive polymers, graphene, Mxene and other materials, or by electroless plating and magnetron sputtering is analyzed. Finally, some problems existing in different kinds of electromagnetic shielding fabrics are summarized, and the prospect of their development is proposed. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress on surface modification of ultra-high molecular weight polyethyene fibers LI Meixia, LÜ Wangyang, WANG Gangqiang, CHEN Wenxing Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (5): 235-245.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202111058 Abstract （203）      PDF （4627KB）（271）       Knowledge map    Save Ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) fibers have received widespread attention due to their excellent properties like high strength, high modulus and low density. However, UHMWPE fibers exhibit poor adhesion with resins resulting from the lack of polar functional groups and high surface inertness, which leads to a limitation of the application in the field of composite materials.The interfacial properties can be effectively increased by surface modification. Firstly, this review examines the recent research on the surface modification of UHMWPE fibers, and introduces the interfacial properties and mechanism of fiber reinforced polymers (FRP). Then, it summarizes the findings of current treatments to improve interfacial adhesion, including plasma treatment, radiation-induced surface grafting, oxidation etching, corona discharge and coating. Besides, it discusses the pros and cons of each modification method. Finally, future development is proposed. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress of flexible composite conductive fiber in smart textiles ZHU Shiqian, TAN Yini, LIU Xiaogang Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (4): 1-11.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202108003 Abstract （201）      PDF （2710KB）（167）       Knowledge map    Save The development and application of smart textiles are the concentrated embodiment of various high-tech textiles and have shown a trend of rapid development in recent years. As a research hotspot in the field of smart textiles, flexible conductive fibers have attracted much attention due to their excellent mechanical properties, outstanding electrical and optical functional characteristics. They have huge application prospects in flexible integrated electronics, such as flexible sensing and flexible electrodes. This paper reviews the current research progress of flexible composite conductive fibers, systematically reviews the classification, preparation methods and application status of conductive fibers, and prospects the main development trends and technical challenges faced by flexible composite conductive fibers. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation and properties of PVC/PVDC blend membranes ZHOU Yukai, QIAN Jianhua, YANG Jingjing, XU Kaiyang, MEI Min Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (1): 145-152.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202206032 Abstract （192）      PDF （8294KB）（44）       Knowledge map    Save Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) is one of the main membrane materials in modern times. It has excellent acid and alkali resistance, microbial resistance, high mechanical strength, low price and other advantages, and is widely used in ultrafiltration, nanofiltration and other fields. However, the film forming performance of PVC is not very ideal, the water flux is low, and the toughness is insufficient, so it is easy to shrink and wrinkle spontaneously when gel is used. Therefore, the PVC film needs to be modified by blending to improve its performance. Polyvinylidene chloride (PVDC) has good film forming property, good mechanical properties, thermal stability and chemical resistance. Therefore, blending PVC and PVDC can make the film have both advantages. In addition, due to the poor hydrophilicity of PVC and PVDC, polyethylene glycol (PEG) can be used as an additive to modify the blend membrane, which can improve its hydrophilicity, pollution resistance and pure water flux. In order to investigate the preparation and properties of polyvinyl chloride(PVC)/poly(vinylidene chloride) (PVDC) blend membranes, N, N-Dimethylacetamide (DMAC) was used as solvent to prepare PVC/PVDC blend membranes by phase inversion method. The compatibility of PVC/PVDC blend system, the surface morphology and cross-sectional morphology of blend membranes, as well as the effects of blend ratio and polyethylene glycol (PEG) mass fraction on pure water flux, rejection, dynamic contact angle and flux recovery were studied. At present, a lot of studies on the blending modification of PVC membranes have been done at home and abroad, but the study on the modification of PVC membranes with PVDC has not been reported yet. The results show that when the blending ratio is 4/6, the overall performance of the blend membrane is the best, the pure water flux is 212.9 L/(m 2·h), and the rejection rate of bovine serum albumin (BSA) is 88.5% under the pressure of 0.1 MPa. The optimum mass fraction of PEG is 6%, and at this time, the pure water flux is 336.6 L/(m 2·h), the interception rate is 81.6%, the instantaneous contact angle decreases from 81.1° to 74.5°, and the recovery flux rate increases from 52.7% to 85.7%. The results show that PEG can effectively improve the hydrophilicity and anti-protein pollution ability of the blend membrane. In this paper, PVC/PVDC blend membranes are prepared by phase inversion method. The compatibility of PVC/PVDC blend systems is analyzed and discussed by measuring the shear viscosity of solutions with different blend ratios. At the same time, the surface and section microstructures of PVC/PVDC blend membranes are observed by field emission scanning electron microscopy (SEM), and the contact angle, pure water flux and flux recovery rate and the interception rate of bovine serum albumin (BSA) are tested to determine the optimal blend ratio. On this basis, the influence of PEG mass fraction on the performance of the blend membrane is studied to determine the optimal PEG content, which provides some directions for the material selection and modification of PVC blend membranes, and endows them with a broader market prospect in water treatment and sewage treatment. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation and properties of two-dimensional material MXene (Ti 3C 2T x)and Its application in textile field YAN Xiaofei, FANG Jie, ZHU Chenkai, LI Jiawei, ZHU Chengyan, QI Dongmin Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (2): 1-8.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202105030 Abstract （189）   HTML （23）    PDF （3040KB）（257）       Knowledge map    Save To facilitate the functional and intelligent application of MXene (Ti3C2Tx)in textile realted field, relevant domestic and foreign literature were reviewed to specifically elaborate on the preparation methods of MXene, including HF corrosion method, in situ-generated HF corrosion method, molten salt method, electrochemical process, and concentrated alkali method; the research progress of MXene in textile fields related to mechanics, electricity, flame retardant smoke suppression, energy storage were summarized in detail; the outstanding performance of MXene in intelligent fabrics and flexible sensors based on textile inks, fibers, and coating were concluded. Finally, this paper indicated the inadequacies of MXene such as poor dispersity in the resin matrix, the susceptibility to oxidation in the air, poor durability of use, as well as its future direction of development. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Identification and inhibition of microbes on mildewed cotton clothes XIAO Yuyan, REN Zehua, YANG Yu, GAO Yuan, LIU Jianli Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (1): 240-247.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202205047 Abstract （185）      PDF （4481KB）（142）       Knowledge map    Save During the storage or wearing process of cotton clothing, "mildew" phenomenon is caused by microbial contamination, which forms mildew spots on the clothing, produces odor, and affects the appearance and service life of clothing. Wearing moldy clothes is likely to cause cross-infection of the skin and there are health risks. Fungi can decompose fibers to be nutrients, and metabolites secreted by the human body such as sebum and sweat adsorbed on clothing can also provide nutrients for microorganisms to reproduce and grow on them. Molds also secrete organic acids during the growth process to erode the fabric. Cotton clothes in the daily life of the environment is easy to be contaminated by microorganisms, and is more prone to molding in the humid rainy environment. However, there are differences in the types of mold on different fabrics. Therefore, it is necessary to identify the types of mold microorganisms on clothing in different regions, and use effective bacteriostatic agents to protect textiles and prolong their service life. In order to determine the type of mildew on cotton clothes, so as to inhibit the mildew of cotton clothes, the mold on the moldy clothing was extracted, and was cultured and purified in PDA medium under the appropriate temperature and humidity. Single mold and dominant mixed strains were inoculated on cotton fabrics. In order to simulate the real growth of mold on cotton clothes, human sebum was used as microbial nutrient. Potassium sorbate, zinc sulfate and sodium benzoate were used as antibacterial agents to observe the growth of fungi on cotton fabrics. The number of molds on it was counted by a mold counter to explore the antibacterial effect of the three inhibitors and the optimal addition amount. Finally, seven kinds of molds were obtained. The results showed that the dominant fungi causing mildew of cotton fabrics were Aspergillus and Penicillium. The seven fungi were identified as Rhizopus stolonifera, Penicillium apicale, Aspergillus flavus, Cladosporium budding, Penicillium citrinum, Aspergillus versicolor and Phoma sp. by ITS sequence analysis and homology comparison. It was found that the best bacteriostatic concentrations of different molds were different, and the bacteriostatic effect of zinc sulfate was the best. When the addition of potassium sorbate and zinc sulfate was 0.12g/100mL and the addition of sodium benzoate was 0.14g/100mL, the optimum inhibitory concentration of the mixed dominant fungi on cotton fabrics was obtained. Identification of mildew fungi on cotton clothes provides experimental reference for elucidating the mechanism of cotton clothes mildew. The optimum concentration of antibacterial agents for cotton fabrics explored lays an experimental foundation for the antibacterial technology of cotton fabrics in the storage end. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Color analysis of digitally spray-printed gambiered Canton gauze cheongsam based on color network CHEN Xiya, ZHAO Songling, GU Bingfei Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (6): 176-185.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202204008 Abstract （182）      PDF （3474KB）（147）       Knowledge map    Save In order to better inherit and carry forward the gambiered Canton gauze culture, clarify the main color characteristics and color matching rules of the current digital printing gambiered Canton gauze cheongsam, and provide certain color matching reference for designers, 205 pictures of digitally spray-printed gambiered Canton gauze cheongsam were taken as research objects, and color extraction and color matching analysis were carried out by computer technology. In the aspect of color extraction, noise elimination and texture smoothing were performed on the image and the main colors and secondary colors of a single cheongsam picture were extracted based on HSV color space by using octree quantization algorithm. Then, 20 overall representative colors, 10 main colors and 20 secondary colors of the overall picture library were obtained by clustering algorithm. In the aspect of color matching, 86 color matching rules between 10 main colors and secondary colors and 66 color matching rules between secondary colors were obtained by Apriori association rule algorithm. And the corresponding color matching network diagram was drawn. The analysis results show gambiered Canton gauze cheongsams mainly use red-yellow colors with medium-low brightness and medium-low saturation, and the color matching of similar colors makes the overall presentation effect more stable and elegant. The results of the study can provide theoretical support for the diversified design of related product patterns or overall matching. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Environmental impact calculation and assessment of bio-based chemical fiber textiles HU Xuerui, HE Tingting , PENG Yanyan , DING Xuemei Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (4): 20-28.   Abstract （174）      PDF （1152KB）（95）       Knowledge map    Save Chemical fibers, as the most used fiber raw material for textile and apparel products, are obtained from petroleum, and the overuse of petroleum resources and excessive emission of carbon dioxide (CO2) have brought about a series of resource and environmental problems. Therefore, in order to reduce the dependence on fossil resources and to address global environmental issues and climate change, bio-based chemical fibers have become one of the raw materials of choice for future development as an alternative to petroleum-based fibers. Bio-based chemical fiber textiles are somehow considered as green fiber products in academic and industrial circles; however, there is no systematic analysis of accounting and evaluation of their environmental attributes. Therefore, this paper systematically studied 2,382 related papers between January 2010 and June 2022 using statistical measures and content analysis, finding that the majority of existing studies focus on the development and performance of bio-based chemical fiber materials, with only eight papers using the LCA method to calculate the seven types of fibers: viscose, Lyocell, modal, bio-based PET, PTT, PLA, and synthetic spider silk. Among the eight papers, 87.5% of the research literature involves one or two stages of the product life cycle, of which the boundary from raw materials (planting) to fiber manufacturing account for the highest percentage (75%), followed by fiber production to waste disposal (37.5%), without involving the whole life cycle assessment. The accounting indicators focus on the global warming potential and acidification potential, and the bio-carbon storage accounting methods are still controversial, with different calculation methods yielding diametrically opposed results. The evaluation results indicate that bio-based chemical fibers are better than petroleum-based ones in terms of resource consumption and toxicity risk, but they may also have problems such as increased water pollution, increased land use, and impact on ecosystem quality. The environmental impact of bio-based chemical fibers in the production process is not significantly different from that of traditional petroleum-based chemical fibers and is mainly influenced by their different biological sources. In general, there are large research gaps in the environmental impact accounting and evaluation of bio-based chemical textiles, and the existing research findings are not enough to prove the green attributes of bio-based chemical textiles. As for such questions as whether bio-carbon should be accounted for in bio-based chemical fibers and how to define the duration of carbon sequestration, it is suggested to determine the bio-cabron accounting method for this category according to the application areas of bio-based products. It is suggested that future life cycle assessment of bio-based chemical textiles in a broader consumer context and practical applications should be conducted on a multidimensional level. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress of formaldehyde-free wrinkle resistant finishing agents for cotton fabrics LIANG Yajing, YAO Jinbo, FENG Mao, NIU Jiarong Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (1): 285-292.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202207061 Abstract （173）      PDF （1134KB）（184）       Knowledge map    Save Cotton fabrics are popular for comfortable handle, good breathability, anti-static electricity and affordable prices, but they have the disadvantages of poor elasticity, proness to wrinkle, and can not maintain a smooth appearance in the process of wearing. In order to improve the poor anti-wrinkle properties of cotton fabrics, and conform to the philosophy of environmental protection, the research of formaldehyde-free anti-wrinkle finishing agents has been increasingly extensive and has become the basic requirement of the new technology of anti-wrinkle finishing. Based on the principle of anti-wrinkling, we summarize three kinds of formaldehyde-free anti-wrinkling finishing agents, namely polymer, molecular crosslinked and molecular crosslinked polymers. Polymeric anti-wrinkle finishing agents realizing anti-wrinkle by resin deposition are mainly chitosan polymers. There are many amino groups and hydroxyl groups in the structure of chitosan, which can be diffused and deposited well to the amorphous region of the fiber. The finished fabric has high strength retention rate, high dye uptake and excellent antibacterial properties, but it has some shortcomings such as poor wrinkle resistance, yellowing and poor hand feel. It needs to be mixed with other finishing agents or modified. Molecular cross-linked anti-wrinkle finishing agents realize anti-wrinkle by covalent cross-linking and mainly contain polycarboxylic acids, aldehydes and ionic crosslinking compounds. Esterification crosslinking occurs between polycarboxylic acid finishing agents and cellulose macromolecules in cotton fabrics, the finished fabric has excellent wrinkle resistance, good whiteness and washability, but the strength decreases obviously and the cost is high. The above-mentioned finishing agents are often used in combination with other anti-wrinkle finishing agents or mixed with new polycarboxylic acid anti-wrinkle finishing agents in order to obtain an excellent anti-wrinkle effect at a low cost. The aldehyde finishing agents have an aldolization with the hydroxyl groups on the cotton fabric. The finished fabric has high fastness to chlorine damage and low cost, but it has obvious strength loss, yellowing and a pungent smell. The ion-crosslinked finishing agents need the cotton fabric to be ionic modification before ion-crosslinking. The finished fabric has less strength loss and good whiteness, but poor crease resistance. The molecular cross-linked polymer finishing agents achieve an anti-wrinkle effect through the synergistic effect of resin deposition and covalent cross-linking, with the resins mainly including reactive silicone and waterborne polyurethane. The reactive silicone is often used as a modifier to improve the anti-wrinkle properties of other finishing agents, with good handle and high strength retention rate. The waterborne polyurethane can improve the wrinkle resistance of the finished fabric by improving its molecular structure, and enhance the strength and wear resistance of the finished fabric. In the future research of anti-wrinkle finishing agents, it is necessary to increase the research of green environmental protection finishing agents such as chitosan and waterborne polyurethane, so as to reduce the cost and broaden the function. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Development of the bio-based polyamide 56 Sirofil yarn and its performance ZHUO hui, LIU Xinjin Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (6): 95-101.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202205039 Abstract （163）      PDF （1547KB）（74）       Knowledge map    Save With the combed cotton and bio-based polyamide 56 blended roving as the raw material for the fiber package and N56 filament as the core wire, nine types of 18 tex 70/30 JC/N56/N56 filament(5 tex) Sirofil yarns with the different spaces between roving and filamentand different twists were spun on QFA1528 ring spinning machine installed with a complete condensing spun device, with the roving blending ratio being 70∶30. This paper discussed how the breaking strength, initial modulus, evenness CV and hairiness H of the nine types of Sirofil yarns changed when the distance between the roving and filament and the twists of spinning frame were changed.The results show that when the space between roving and filament is 8 mm and the twist is set at 120.34 twist/10 cm,the yarn strength,evenness and hairiness are optimal. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Young women's body shape classification and recognition based on height and weight JIN Shouning, XIA Yuanping, ZHANG Beibei, GU Bingfei Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (4): 200-206.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202107031 Abstract （163）      PDF （2475KB）（46）       Knowledge map    Save For the purpose of quick and convenient recognition of young women's body shape, the body shape parameters of 304 young women aged 18-25 were obtained, including parameters of height, weight and girth. The body shapes of young women were divided into three categories (i.e., O fat body, H Well-balanced body and X thin body), and the discriminant rules of each type were summarized. Besides, a BP neural network prediction model based on height and weight was established to perform the size prediction of bust, waist and hip circumference. The results showed that according to the classification rules of three body-shape types, 88% of the samples predicted based on height and weight were correctly classified, proving that the method of body type recognition based on BP neural network prediction model in this study is feasible, and it can provide technical reference and theoretical basis for generating personalized patterns. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Structural analysis and performance of daily protective mask LI Longfei, SHAO Lingda, LIN Ping, ZHU Chengyan, DING Yuanyuan, TIAN Wei Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (1): 178-184.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202101013 Abstract （162）   HTML （12）    PDF （2608KB）（171）       Knowledge map    Save In order to study the effect of structural parameters on the filtration efficiency, air permeability and moisture permeability of masks, the structural parameters of the inner layer, filter layer and outer layer of eight kinds of daily protective masks were analyzed, their air permeability, moisture permeability and filtration efficiency were tested and characterized. The results show that the order of size wtih the influence weight of the structural parameters of filter layer on the filtration efficiency is: fiber diameter, average pore size, porosity; with the decrease of fiber diameter, the filtration efficiency of masks increases; the overall air permeability of masks is mainly affected by the inner layer of masks, and with the increase of the air permeability of the inner layer of masks, the overall air permeability shows an increasing trend. The overall moisture permeability of masks is mainly affected by the filter layer, and with the increase of the moisture permeability of the filter layer, the overall moisture permeability shows an increasing trend. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Identification of gardenia yellow plant dyes and their dyed silk fabrics GUI Zuwena, b, XU Haoninga, b, CHEN Haixiangb, YU Zhichenga, b, WANG Leia, b Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (6): 1-8.   Abstract （161）      PDF （1466KB）（121）       Knowledge map    Save In recent years, with the improvement of people's awareness of environmental protection, ecological textiles have been increasingly favored by people. Because of their non-toxic, biodegradable and other characteristics, plant dyes are widely used to study the dyeing and printing of textiles. Dyeing and printing with plant dyes can not only reduce the harm of dyes to the human body and make full use of natural renewable resources, but also greatly reduce the toxicity of printing and dyeing wastewater, playing a role in protecting the environment indirectly. At present, the development and utilization of plant dyes is under the active exploration and research, and the plant dye demonstration system engineering has been launched officially. In order to fill the deficiency of the world plant dye standard system, and lay a solid foundation for China to lead the development of the global plant dye industry, it is necessary to establish the identification methods and standards of plant dye series of products. In order to ensure the quality of plant dyeing products on the market, crack down on fake and shoddy products, and standardize market operation, so that consumers can rest assured and buy satisfactory plant dyeing products, it is very important to identify the corresponding vegetable dyes and dyeing textiles. In order to identify plant dyes and their dyed textiles, this paper takes gardenia yellow plant dyes and dyed silk fabrics as the research objects. Firstly, the gardenia yellow plant dyes were tested by ultraviolet spectrophotometer, and the markers of gardenia yellow plant dyes were indentified by combining with the descriptions in the literature. Then the markers, gardenia yellow plant dyes and their dyed silk fabric extract were detected by using liquid mass combination instrument under negative ion mode. By comparing the retention time and mass spectrometry of the dyes, dyed silk fabric extract and the dyed silk fabric, whether the dye and fabric were gardenia yellow plant dye and its dyed silk fabric was determined. The results showed that crocin Ⅰ and crocin acid could be used as markers to distinguish gardenia yellow plant dyes and their dyed silk fabrics. The molecular ion peaks m/z=975.3472 and m/z=327.1553 were detected in the mass spectrum of gardenia yellow plant dyes, and the retention times were 0.61 min and 1.38 min, respectively. The molecular ion peaks m/z=975.396 and m/z=327.1489 were detected in the mass spectrum of dyed silk fabric extract, and the retention times were 0.61 min and 1.38 min, respectively. The retention times were similar to the peak time of the crocin Ⅰ standard substance (0.61 min) and crocin acid standard substance (1.36 min), and the deviations were within the allowable deviation range of ±2.5%. Therefore, it was determined that the dye and the dyed silk fabric are respectively the gardenia yellow plant dye and its dyed silk fabric. At present, many textile colleges and universities have established relatively complete database of vegetable dyes and comprehensive vegetable dye color cards. However, there are certain deficiencies in the relevant standards of plant dyeing in every link in the current market, and consumers have insufficient awareness of them and cannot verify the conformity of products. Therefore, identifying the corresponding plant dyes and their dyed fabrics is a priority in the development of plant dyeing. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Recognition technology of cashmere and wool fibers based on mask R-CNN deep learning CONG Mingfang, LI Ziyin, LU Yang, HAN Gaofeng, XIE Lingjia, WANG Qizhen Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (2): 36-40.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202104002 Abstract （159）   HTML （12）    PDF （2551KB）（204）       Knowledge map    Save To enhance the level of automation for wool fiber quantification, the mask R-CNN deep learning technology was introduced for the processing of the pictures collected by the optical microscope, optimization of algorithm model, learning and training. An automatic recognition model of cashmere and sheep wool was established. Through the verification test using a test set, it was found that the accuracy of automatic recognition of cashmere and sheep wool fibers reached more than 95%, confirming the feasibility of the recognition technology developed in this paper. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Application progress of conductive fibers in the application of new textiles XIE Jinlin, ZHANG Jing, GUO Yuxing, ZHAO Zhihui, QIU Hua, GU Peng, Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (6): 241-254.   Abstract （154）      PDF （7451KB）（163）       Knowledge map    Save With the development of new science and technology, textiles are not limited to the applications of warm keeping and beauty. Extra functions such as sensing and indicating are the new trend of the 21st century and the concept of e-textiles and smart textiles emerges as the times require. Thus, conductive fibers have attracted extraordinary attention with the upsurge of interest in flexible and wearable health monitoring systems, energy storage devices and noninvasive human–machine interfaces. In the meantime, conductive fibers also show excellent antistatic and shielding electromagnetic radiation properties, which made conductive fibers the excellent candidate for wearable textile devices and industrial textile products.  In the 1960s, people began to develop conductive fibers for antistatic purpose, and different types of conductive fibers were gradually developed. So far, conductive fibers can be divided into three main types. The first type is fibers made by inorganic materials such as metals and carbon, but these fibers exhibit poor wearability and conductive instability. The second type is polymer fibers such as PPy and PANI, which show a good conductivity up to 103 S/cm.  However, the preparation process of fiber formation is quite complex because of the high toxic monomer, high molecular weight and oxidation. The third type is composite conductive fibers made through coating or blending fabric technology. By blending or coating conductive polymers, metals or other conductive materials (such as MXene and Graphene), the composite fibers can always inherit the benefits from both conventional fibers and conductive materials. Currently, the major researches of conductive fibers are focused on textile technology and materials science. Although there are some review articles on the similar topics, it is necessary to summarize the recent development of conductive fibers in the application of next generation textile products. In this study, we present a review of the classification and preparation techniques of conductive fibers, as well as the application and development of antistatic, electromagnetic shielding and flexible sensors in detail. Future perspective is given in the end, which could shed light in the conductive fiber research and industry, especially in the area of smart wearable devices.  Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Scale development and validation of clothing brand sustainability HE Jingyu, CHEN Lihong, HE Lin Advanced Textile Technology    2022, 30 (6): 194-203.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202204056 Abstract （152）      PDF （1282KB）（135）       Knowledge map    Save In order to better carry out the research on clothing brand sustainability, the clothing brand sustainability measurement scale is developed. Based on literature research and case study, this paper defines the concept, structural dimensions and corresponding measurement indexes of clothing brand sustainability. Through the statistical analysis of the survey data, the reliability and validity of the scale were tested. The scale validity was tested by taking consumers' green purchase intention as the outcome variable. Finally, a scale of 12 measurement items including social sustainability, environmental sustainability and economic sustainability was determined. The results show that the overall structure of the scale is good and the reliability and validity pass the test. The forecasting effect of each dimension of clothing brand sustainability on consumers' green purchase intention and the practical application of the scale are verified. The research results provide an effective measurement tool for apparel brand sustainability and a reference for apparel enterprises to improve brand sustainability. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress on the thermal insulation performance of 3D spacer fabrics RUI Ke, HE Jiazhen Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (1): 259-268.   DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202206022 Abstract （151）      PDF （1196KB）（258）       Knowledge map    Save 3D spacer fabrics, also known as sandwich fabrics, are 3D structure fabrics composed of a number of spacer yarns connecting the upper and lower two surface fabric layers. The special 3D structure allows a large amount of static air to be stored in the spacer layer, and the static air is the medium with the smallest thermal conductivity in nature, which makes 3D spacer fabrics have better heat insulation performance than ordinary single-layer fabrics and have great development space as a high-performance thermal insulation material. 3D spacer fabrics, boasting excellent thermal insulation performance, light weight, excellent moisture absorption and breathability, anti-compression, high strength, etc., have broad application prospects in the fields of medical supplies, personal protective equipment, smart textiles and energy resource conservation. In the field of medical supplies, wound dressings made of spacer fabrics can reduce the heat loss of wounds and facilitate wound recovery. In the field of personal protective equipment, spacer fabrics can enhance the thermal protective performance of thermal protective clothing and reduce the heat loads of the wearer. In the field of smart textiles, spacer fabrics can be used to develop flexible thermoelectric systems to regulate human body temperature. In the field of energy resources, thermal insulation panels made of spacer fabrics, solar steam power photothermal materials, and transparent heat insulation materials can reduce energy loss and improve the utilization rate of energy resources. To further expand the application field of 3D spacer fabrics so that the spacer fabrics can meet the demand for material thermal insulation performance in many fields, spacer fabric composite thermal insulation materials are an important means to enhance the thermal insulation performance of spacer fabrics. Spacer fabrics compounded with low thermal conductivity barrier insulation materials can enhance the insulation performance by reducing thermal conduction and thermal convection. The spacer fabrics composite reflective insulation materials can reduce the radiation absorbed by the fabrics and enhance the radiation reflectivity of the surface of the spacer fabrics, thus enhancing the thermal insulation performance of the spacer fabrics. The spacer fabrics with radiant heat insulation materials can enhance the heat insulation performance of the fabric by emitting the absorbed radiant heat into the environment. The 3D spacer fabrics contain a large amount of static air, and have excellent thermal insulation performance, as well moisture absorption and permeability, energy-absorbing cushioning, etc., which can meet the needs of functional fabrics in different fields. At present, research on the thermal insulation performance of spacer fabrics is mainly carried out for knitted spacer fabrics. Although woven spacer fabrics are often used as the reinforcement of 3D composite thermal insulation materials, their own thermal insulation performance has not been fully studied, so the investigation of the factors influencing the thermal insulation performance of woven spacer fabrics is the key to expanding their application scope. Meanwhile, the establishment of a heat transfer model based on the microscopic characteristics of spacer fabrics can help researchers optimize the structure of spacer fabrics to enhance the thermal insulation performance. Finally, the development of high-performance spacer fabrics' insulation materials based on fiber raw materials, insulation materials and compounding methods is an important means to broaden their application fields. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress and application of waterproof and moisture permeable membranes on textiles QIU Huili, YANG Qun, CUI Jin, PEI Liujun, HU Genghao Advanced Textile Technology    2023, 31 (2): 244-.   Abstract （150）      PDF （3846KB）（104）       Knowledge map    Save Waterproof and moisture permeable membranes are a kind of functional membrane material with both waterproof and moisture permeability. Combined with fiber fabric, they can prepare functional textiles with unique protective properties, waterproof, breathable and moisture permeability. Currently, the moisture and heat transfer membrane materials used in human-environment interaction of wearable textiles mainly include polytetrafluoroethylene hydrophobic membranes, polyurethane hydrophilic membranes and electrospun fiber membranes. Therefore, the structure, preparation method, waterproof and moisture permeable mechanism and application of these three kinds of waterproof and moisture permeable membranes are reviewed. The research progress of of waterproof and moisture permeable membranes and their application trend in textiles are introduced, and the research focus of the future development on intelligent fabrics is prospected.  Reference | Related Articles | Metrics