Abstract: To address issues of white scratches on polyester fabrics after stiff finishing fabrics, two polyester fabrics with different deniers and weaving tightness were selected as the object of study to establish a white mark quantitative assessment method by using rubbing fastness tester and color measuring spectrometer. The two polyester fabrics and the surface damage after stiff finishing were studied by simulating scratches in different directions. The results indicate that the color light test results can be used for a quantitative characterization of the degree of white scratches. The white scratches could be seen obviously when the ΔL value (the difference in surface brightness)before and after scratching was greater than 3, which may be caused by optical behavior changes arising from the deformation, breakage and falling of the fiber and the film. The research has found that different damages to the warp and weft fibers and yarns in the direction of the scratching would cause different white scratches. In summary, the white scratches caused by scratching along the direction of cloth yarn density with large elasticity were severer relatively. In addition, the formation of white scratches is of selectivity to different kinds of fabrics. White scratches are more likely to be left on fabrics with smaller fineness and larger tightness after scratching.

Key words: polyester fabrics, stiff finishing, white scratches, optical behavior, direction of scratching

摘要： 针对涤纶硬挺整理织物刮划后会产生白痕的问题,选用两种纤度、织造紧度不同的涤纶织物为对象,建立了一套基于摩擦色牢度仪以及测色光谱仪的白痕定量评价方法。通过模拟不同方向的刮划,对两种织物自身及经硬挺整理后的表面破坏情况进行了研究。结果表明:色光测试结果可定量表征白痕程度,当刮划前后的ΔL值(表面明度的差值)大于3时,白痕现象较明显。导致白痕问题的主要原因是纤维以及胶膜的变形、破损和脱落造成的表面光学行为的变化。研究发现,刮划作用方向对经纬向纤维和纱线的破坏情况不同,因此白痕情况也不同。总体上,沿布样纱线密度、弹性较大的方向刮划产生的白痕情况相对更严重。此外,白痕的产生对织物具有选择性,其中纤度较小、紧度较大的织物自身刮划后更易产生白痕。

关键词: 涤纶, 硬挺整理, 白痕, 光学行为, 刮划方向