个性化文胸版型建立与优化

doi:10.19398/j.att.202103048

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

为解决手工制版及服装CAD系统推板工作效率低、文胸版型不能随着女性体型的变化而快速成版的问题,以上下两片罩杯文胸为例,运用Matlae软件为开发平台,依据文胸版型图的数学模型,编写数据自动化计算、纸样自动化生成的程序,并设置胸围和胸差为控制变量来驱动运行代码,以得到新的文胸版型,从而实现文胸版型的个性化定制。结果表明:通过胸围和胸差两个变量可实现文胸版型数学模型的建立,且通过这两个变量来驱动Matlae程序的运行,可以生成与该变量相应体型的文胸版型图,并且实现了在2~3 s内快速完成文胸版型随体型变化的自动制版、推板或更新,提高了个性化定制快速服务能力。

关键词: 文胸版型, 数学模型, 控制变量, Matlae软件, 个性化定制

Abstract:

In order to solve the problem of inefficiency in manual plate making and pattern grading by garment CAD system, the inability of brassiere pattern formation with the change of female body shape, with the top-bottom two-piece up brassiere as examples, according to mathematical model of the brassiere pattern, a program for data automatic calculation and automatic pattern generation was written on Matlae software development platform. The chest circumference and chest difference were selected as the control variables to drive the program to obtain a new brassiere pattern for the purpose of an individualized customization of the brassiere pattern. The results show that it is feasible to establish a mathematical model of the brassiere pattern according to two variables of chest circumference and chest difference, which can also drive the Matlae program, and generate the bra pattern for corresponding body shape. In addition, automatic plate making, pattern grading and updating of the brassiere pattern can be realized with the change in body shape in 2-3 s, thus enhancing the rapid service capability of individualized customization.

Key words: brassiere pattern, mathematical model, control variable, Matlae software, individualized customization

中图分类号:

TS941.2

成恬恬. 个性化文胸版型建立与优化[J]. 现代纺织技术, 2022, 30(2): 216-221.

CHENG Tiantian. The establishment and optimization of individualized brassiere patterns[J]. Advanced Textile Technology, 2022, 30(2): 216-221.

图/表 8

图1 乳房细部尺寸测量示意(数字为表1中的编号)

Fig.1 Breast size measurement schematic diagram (the numbers refer to the numbers in Tab.1)

表1 胸部细部数据测量项目

Tab.1 Chest detail measurement items

编号	测量项目	编号	测量项目	编号	测量项目	编号	测量项目
1	胸围^a	7	前乳杯垂线^b	13	乳深^b	19	肩宽^a
2	侧乳杯弧线^b	8	下乳杯弧线^b	14	胸点到颈窝点距离^b	20	背宽^a
3	侧乳杯直线^b	9	下乳杯直线^b	15	胸点到侧颈点距离^b	21	胸差^c
4	侧乳杯垂线^b	10	下乳杯垂线^b	16	胸点到肩凹点距离^b	22	前乳杯弧直线差^c
5	前乳杯弧线^b	11	乳间距^b	17	胸点到肩点距离^b	23	侧乳杯弧直线差^c
6	前乳杯直线^b	12	下胸围^a	18	胸宽^a	24	下乳杯弧直线差^c

表2 胸部细部特征尺寸回归方程式

Tab.2 Regression equation of Chest detail size

部位	胸围(B)胸差(C)	部位	胸围(B)胸差(C)	部位	胸围(B)胸差(C)
部位	回归方程	部位	回归方程	部位	回归方程
前乳杯垂线	0.062×B+0.058×C+2.488	侧乳杯弧线	0.072×B+0.264×C	下乳杯弧线	0.044×B+0.217×C
前乳杯弧线	0.071×B+0.121×C+1.447	侧乳杯垂线	0.067×B-0.058×C	下乳杯直线	0.048×B+0.160×C
前乳杯直线	0.076×B+0.089×C+1.262	前乳杯直线	0.077×B+0.222×C	乳深	0.051×B+0.204×C-1.642

图2 文胸结构图各控制节点

Fig.2 Key points of bra structure diagram

表3 文胸结构图各控制节点坐标

Tab.3 The coordinates of each control node in the breast structure diagram

点	坐标(x,y)	点	坐标(x,y)
P1	(-R₂·cosα,-R₂·sinα)	P2	(0,1)
P3	(R₁·cosα,-R₁·sinα)	P4	(0,-R₃)
P5	(-R₂·cosβ,R₂·sinβ-1)	P6	(4.5·cos(108°-β)-R₂·cosβ, R₂·sinβ-1+4.5·sin(108°-β))
P7	(R₃·sinγ,R₃·cosγ)	P8	(R₁cosγ+ $324$ · $R 3 + 2.5 - R 1 sin γ 2 + R 1 cos γ 2 R 3 + 2.5$ -2.5sinγ R₁sinγ-1+ $324$ · $R 3 + 2.5 - R 1 sin γ 2 + R 1 cos γ 2 R 3 + 2.5$ +2.5cosγ)
P9	(R₁cosγ+ $324$ · $R 3 + 2.5 - R 1 sin γ 2 + R 1 cos γ 2 R 3 + 2.5$ R₁sinγ-1+ $324$ · $R 3 + 2.5 - R 1 sin γ 2 + R 1 cos γ 2 R 3 + 2.5$ )	P10	(-R₃-2,1)
P11	(- $1764$ ·B+R₃, $(6.5 + R 3 sin γ) · 2 R 3 - 1764 · B + 2 B 2 - 2 R 3 - 2.6$ +1)	P12	(-B/2+R₃+0.6,-R₃·sinγ-5.5)
P13	(-B/2+0.6+ $3.5 · B 2 - 2 R 3 - 2.6 R 3 sin γ + 6.5 2 + B 2 - 2 R 3 - 2.6 2$ , -R₃sinγ-5.5- $3.5 · (6.5 + R 3 · sin γ) (R 3 sin γ + 6.5) 2 + B 2 - 2 R 3 - 2.6 2$ )	P14	(- $B 2$ -R₃cosγ- $1564$ ·B+1.6, $6.5 + R 3 sin γ · R 3 cos γ - R 3 - 4964 · B - 2.6 R 3 + 3 + B 2 - R 3 cos γ$ )
P15	(0,-R₃-1.5)	P16	(R₃·cosγ+1,-R₃·sinγ-5.5)
P17	(R₃·cosγ+1,-R₃·sinγ)	P18	(R₃·cosγ,-R₃·sinγ)

表3 文胸结构图各控制节点坐标

Tab.3 The coordinates of each control node in the breast structure diagram

点	坐标(x,y)	点	坐标(x,y)
P1	(-R₂·cosα,-R₂·sinα)	P2	(0,1)
P3	(R₁·cosα,-R₁·sinα)	P4	(0,-R₃)
P5	(-R₂·cosβ,R₂·sinβ-1)	P6	(4.5·cos(108°-β)-R₂·cosβ, R₂·sinβ-1+4.5·sin(108°-β))
P7	(R₃·sinγ,R₃·cosγ)	P8	(R₁cosγ+ $324$ · $R 3 + 2.5 - R 1 sin γ 2 + R 1 cos γ 2 R 3 + 2.5$ -2.5sinγ R₁sinγ-1+ $324$ · $R 3 + 2.5 - R 1 sin γ 2 + R 1 cos γ 2 R 3 + 2.5$ +2.5cosγ)
P9	(R₁cosγ+ $324$ · $R 3 + 2.5 - R 1 sin γ 2 + R 1 cos γ 2 R 3 + 2.5$ R₁sinγ-1+ $324$ · $R 3 + 2.5 - R 1 sin γ 2 + R 1 cos γ 2 R 3 + 2.5$ )	P10	(-R₃-2,1)
P11	(- $1764$ ·B+R₃, $(6.5 + R 3 sin γ) · 2 R 3 - 1764 · B + 2 B 2 - 2 R 3 - 2.6$ +1)	P12	(-B/2+R₃+0.6,-R₃·sinγ-5.5)
P13	(-B/2+0.6+ $3.5 · B 2 - 2 R 3 - 2.6 R 3 sin γ + 6.5 2 + B 2 - 2 R 3 - 2.6 2$ , -R₃sinγ-5.5- $3.5 · (6.5 + R 3 · sin γ) (R 3 sin γ + 6.5) 2 + B 2 - 2 R 3 - 2.6 2$ )	P14	(- $B 2$ -R₃cosγ- $1564$ ·B+1.6, $6.5 + R 3 sin γ · R 3 cos γ - R 3 - 4964 · B - 2.6 R 3 + 3 + B 2 - R 3 cos γ$ )
P15	(0,-R₃-1.5)	P16	(R₃·cosγ+1,-R₃·sinγ-5.5)
P17	(R₃·cosγ+1,-R₃·sinγ)	P18	(R₃·cosγ,-R₃·sinγ)

图3 文胸版型自动化生成交互式界面

Fig.3 The automatically generated interactive interface of bra version

图4 GUI交互式界面中不同尺寸文胸结构图对比

Fig.4 Comparison of different sizes of bra structure diagrams in GUI interactive interface

图5 3种文胸压力舒适性测试

Fig.5 Thetest of 3 kinds of bras' pressure and comfort

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