现代纺织技术 ›› 2023, Vol. 31 ›› Issue (4): 20-28.

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生物基化学纤维纺织品环境影响核算与评价分析

  

  1. 1.东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海 200051;2. 中国标准化研究院,北京,100191
  • 收稿日期:2023-02-12 出版日期:2023-07-10 网络出版日期:2023-09-12
  • 作者简介:胡雪睿(1998—),女,太原人,硕士研究生,主要从事纺织服装产业可持续发展方面的研究
  • 基金资助:
    上海市设计学IV类高峰学科资助项目-服装科技创新研究团队(DD18005);中央高校基本科研业务费专项基金项目(2232022G-08)

Environmental impact calculation and assessment of bio-based chemical fiber textiles

  1. 1.College of Fashion and Design, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China; 2. China National Institute of Standardization, Beijing, 100191, China
  • Received:2023-02-12 Published:2023-07-10 Online:2023-09-12

摘要: 生物基化学纤维纺织品在学术界和工业界被认为是绿色纤维制品,然而,其环境属性的核算与评价尚未有系统分析。因此,本文采用统计计量和内容分析法系统研究了2010年至2022年间发表的生物基化学纤维及其制品的环境影响相关文献。在2382篇相关文献中,95%以上的文献围绕在生物基化学纤维纺织品的材料开发和性能研究,仅有8篇文献采用了生命周期方法核算与评价了7种生物基化学纤维及一次性制品的环境影响,产品类型较为单一;核算边界集中在原材料获取和废弃处理阶段,未涉及全生命周期研究;生物碳核算方法仍有争议,不同的计算方式会得出不同的结果;核算指标聚焦在全球变暖潜势和酸化潜力;结果显示生物基化学纤维在资源消耗和毒性风险方面性能优于石油基,但也可能加剧土地使用和水污染。生物基化学纤维纺织品环境影响核算与评价存在较大研究空白,建议今后从全生命周期角度,结合生物基纺织品特性选择核算指标和核算方法来进行多维层面的核算与评估。

关键词: 生物基化学纤维, 环境影响, 生命周期评价, 生物碳核算方法

Abstract: Chemical fibers, as the most used fiber raw material for textile and apparel products, are obtained from petroleum, and the overuse of petroleum resources and excessive emission of carbon dioxide (CO2) have brought about a series of resource and environmental problems. Therefore, in order to reduce the dependence on fossil resources and to address global environmental issues and climate change, bio-based chemical fibers have become one of the raw materials of choice for future development as an alternative to petroleum-based fibers. Bio-based chemical fiber textiles are somehow considered as green fiber products in academic and industrial circles; however, there is no systematic analysis of accounting and evaluation of their environmental attributes.
Therefore, this paper systematically studied 2,382 related papers between January 2010 and June 2022 using statistical measures and content analysis, finding that the majority of existing studies focus on the development and performance of bio-based chemical fiber materials, with only eight papers using the LCA method to calculate the seven types of fibers: viscose, Lyocell, modal, bio-based PET, PTT, PLA, and synthetic spider silk. Among the eight papers, 87.5% of the research literature involves one or two stages of the product life cycle, of which the boundary from raw materials (planting) to fiber manufacturing account for the highest percentage (75%), followed by fiber production to waste disposal (37.5%), without involving the whole life cycle assessment. The accounting indicators focus on the global warming potential and acidification potential, and the bio-carbon storage accounting methods are still controversial, with different calculation methods yielding diametrically opposed results. The evaluation results indicate that bio-based chemical fibers are better than petroleum-based ones in terms of resource consumption and toxicity risk, but they may also have problems such as increased water pollution, increased land use, and impact on ecosystem quality. The environmental impact of bio-based chemical fibers in the production process is not significantly different from that of traditional petroleum-based chemical fibers and is mainly influenced by their different biological sources.
In general, there are large research gaps in the environmental impact accounting and evaluation of bio-based chemical textiles, and the existing research findings are not enough to prove the green attributes of bio-based chemical textiles. As for such questions as whether bio-carbon should be accounted for in bio-based chemical fibers and how to define the duration of carbon sequestration, it is suggested to determine the bio-cabron accounting method for this category according to the application areas of bio-based products. It is suggested that future life cycle assessment of bio-based chemical textiles in a broader consumer context and practical applications should be conducted on a multidimensional level.

Key words: biobased chemical fibers, environmental impacts, life cycle assessment, biogenic carbon storage

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