现代纺织技术 ›› 2025, Vol. 33 ›› Issue (03): 27-32.

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捻系数对转杯纺涤棉包缠纱结构与性能的影响

  

  1. 江南大学纺织科学与工程学院,江苏无锡  214122

  • 出版日期:2025-03-10 网络出版日期:2025-03-20

Effect of twist factor on the structure and properties of rotor-spun polyester-cotton wrapped yarns

  1. College of Textile Science and Engineering, Jiangnan University, Wuxi 214122, China
  • Published:2025-03-10 Online:2025-03-20

摘要: 为探讨捻系数对包缠纱外观结构及性能的影响,优化转杯纺涤棉包缠纱的工艺参数,以白色棉短纤维为芯纱,50 D黑色涤纶长丝为外包纱,纺制了捻系数在385~655范围内10组细度为68.3 tex的包缠纱,分析了其外观结构,并对其强伸性能、毛羽、条干、纱疵以及残余扭矩等进行了测试与比较。结果表明:该包缠纱具有间隔色彩效果;其捻系数变化对各性能影响符合已知理论,进一步验证了相关理论的科学性;该包缠纱临界捻系数在475~535范围内,根据纱线的强伸性、毛羽、条干、纱疵等指标结果,当包缠纱捻系数为505时,纱线质量最优。该研究优化了涤棉包缠纱的工艺参数,提高了包缠纱的纱线质量,为转杯纺包缠纱的创新与发展提供实验参考。

关键词: 转杯纺, 包缠纱, 捻系数, 强力, 条干CV, 毛羽

Abstract: The wrapped yarn is a new structure of yarn that is composed of two or more kinds of fibers. In terms of performance, it can compensate for the deficiencies of single-component fibers and leverage the advantages of composite fibers. Through the composite of fibers, it can make textile fabrics show new styles, high elasticity and special functions that cannot be shown by a single material. The wrapped yarn is a kind of composite yarn that is not only simple and efficient in production but also fully utilizes the characteristics of the fibers, making up for the defects of single-component fibers. The production technology for staple fibers and filament wrapped composite yarns has become increasingly mature, mainly including ring spinning, rotor spinning, hollow spindle spinning and so on. At present, rotor spinning technology is the most mature, widely used, and economically beneficial new spinning method. Since its inception, research in this area has been continuously conducted. However, in recent years, compared with ring spinning and hollow spindle spinning, not much research has been done on rotor spinning wrapped composite yarns, especially the optimization of process parameters for wrapped yarns in practical production. Therefore, this paper selects polyester filament and cotton staple fiber composite spinning polyester-cotton wrapped yarn on the basis of existing materials, and carries out the research and optimization of process parameters of polyester-cotton wrapped yarns.
The spinning principle of rotor composite spinning is that under the combing action, the staple fibers are carded into single fibers and enter the coalescing tank. The filament enters the spinning cup through an axial hollow spindle. The high speed rotation of the spinning cup produces a twisting effect that causes the filament and the staple fiber to be entangled into a yarn. It can be seen that twisting plays a key role in the yarn formation process of entangled yarn, and the twist factor is closely related to the structure and quality of the yarn. In order to explore the influence of twist coefficient on the appearance and structure as well as the performance of wrapped composite yarns, and to optimize the process parameters of polyester-cotton wrapped yarns by rotor spinning technology, the article used white cotton staple fiber as the core yarn and 50 D black polyester filament yarn as the outer wrapped yarn. As a result, ten sets of wrapped yarns with fineness of 68.3 tex were spun with twist coefficients in the 385‒655 range. The appearance and structure of the yarns were analyzed, and their tensile properties, hairiness, dryness, defects and residual torque were tested and compared. The results show that the wrapped yarns have spacer color effect; the influence of the twist coefficient on the properties is in accordance with the known theory, which further verifies the scientific validity of the relevant theory. Moreover, the critical twist coefficients of the wrapped yarns are in the 475‒535 range, and the yarn quality is optimal when the twist coefficient of the wrapped yarns is 505 according to the results of the comprehensive indexes.
The twist factor influences the appearance, structure, and performance of wrapped composite yarns. Through the experimental research and analysis conducted in this paper, the experimental results align with the theory, further verifying the scientific validity of the relevant theories and providing practical experience for the spinning and performance of rotor-spun wrapped yarns. In the future, it is necessary to continue exploring relevant experimental studies on rotor-spun wrapped yarns, considering the influence of multiple factors on yarn performance, and further adjusting and improving them to promote the innovation and development of rotor spinning wrapped yarns.

Key words: rotor spinning, wrapped yarn, twist factor, strength, evenness CV, hairiness

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