关键词: 天丝, 蜂窝涤纶纤维, 混纺纱线, 服用性能, 织物组织

Abstract: " With the development of science and technology, people's pursuit of a better wearing experience has been continuously increasing, and the public's concern for their own health has also been deepening. The honeycomb structure of honeycomb polyester fiber gives it excellent breathability and moisture permeability. Tencel fiber, with its certain luster and comfortable hand feel, is often used in the field of apparel. To achieve multifunctionality and comfort in fabrics, five blended yarns were designed using honeycomb antibacterial polyester fiber, honeycomb ultraviolet-resistant polyester fiber, honeycomb jade polyester fiber, and Tencel as raw materials for the yarns. In this study, mulberry silk was chosen as the warp thread, and the blended yarn as the weft thread. The tensile strength, pilling resistance, wrinkle recovery performance, breathability, and moisture permeability of 22 fabrics were tested to investigate the effects of weft blending ratio, weft density, and organization structure on the wearability of the fabrics. The results indicated that the tighter the fabric weave, the stronger the tensile strength, with both the breaking strength and elongation at break in the weft direction increasing as the weft density increased. The pilling resistance of the fabric improved with the tightness of the fabric weave and the increase in average float length. The higher the proportion of honeycomb-modified polyester fibers in the weft yarn, the better the wrinkle recovery performance of the fabric. The wrinkle recovery performance of fabrics was negatively correlated with the density of weft yarns. The breathability of fabrics decreased with the increase of weft yarn density. With the increase in weft density, the moisture permeability of the fabric initially increased and then decreased, reaching its peak when the weft density was 40 yarns/cm. These research results can provide certain design reference for developing fabrics with excellent wearability."

Key words: "Tencel, honeycomb polyester fiber, blended yarn, wearability performance, fabric organization "