Abstract: Color flashing fabrics are generally produced with plain weave or plain weave change structure configuration of contrasting color silk lines. The flashing effect of the fabric surface is single, and cannot show the pattern flashing effect. The research and application of digital jacquard technology, especially the proposal of layered combination design pattern of digital jacquard fabrics and the invention of the combined full color structure design method, provide technical support for realizing jacquard fabrics with pattern flashing effect. The triple-weft overlapping flash digital jacquard fabric is a kind of jacquard fabric developed on the basis of the layered combination design mode. It adopts digital design technology for design and production. The surface of the fabric has the special effect of overlapping and flash color. However, we have not found related research literature of triple-weft pile on color flashing fabric color mechanism and the design practice.
We presented the design principle and method of triple-weft overlapping color flashing digital jacquard fabrics, and proved the effectiveness and application value of the design principle and method through the design practice. To address the limited expression and color variation of general color flashing fabrics and to solve the key technical problems of the overlapping effect of triple-weft complex weave patterns and rich flashing effect displayed on the fabric surface, we, according to the basic principle of the layered combination design pattern of digital jacquard fabrics and the design method of total color combination structure, started from the interweaving layer of different colors, explored the design principle of overlapping patterns and the basic principle of color flashing, put forward the design principle and method of triple-weft overlapping patterns and color flashing digital jacquard fabric, and focused on the analysis of the color principle and structure principle of triple-weft overlapping patterns and color flashing digital jacquard fabric design and development. Based on the developed triple-weft overlay and flash fabric, we designed experiments to compare and analyze the effects of observing the fabric from the three different angles of 45 degrees, 90 degrees and 135 degrees. The results show that: (a) when the observation angle is 45 degrees, the fabric has the best overlay and flashing effect, the contrast of color between red and green is obvious, and the weave is exquisite; (b) when the observation angle is 90 degrees, the color expression is not clear, and the flashing effect is poor; (c) when the observation angle is 135 degrees, the weave pattern of the fabric is not clear, the red is obvious, and the flashing effect is satisfactory. Under the condition of 90 degrees, the warp and weft yarns do not cover each other, and the mixed color of the warp and weft yarns is of a certain equal proportion. Under the condition of 45 degrees and 135 degrees, the yarns have different absorption and reflection degrees of light, and the mixing ratios of color are different.
According to the design practice and experiment, the surface of the triple-weft overlapping color flashing digital jacquard fabric will show a special pattern color flashing effect when observed from different angles. It can meet the technical requirements of stable structure and interleaved balance, and realize the digital innovative design of triple-weft overlapping color flashing digital jacquard fabrics on the level of color and technology.

Key words: overlapping pattern, color flashing, jacquard fabric, layered-combination design mode, full color

摘要： 叠花闪色数码提花织物具有花纹透叠和闪色效果并存的特征。为了解决在织物表面同时表现三纬复杂织纹图案透叠效果和丰富闪色效果的关键技术问题，在分层组合设计模式下，结合全显色组合结构设计方法，提出三纬叠花闪色数码提花织物的设计原理和方法，分析了三纬叠花闪色的色彩原理和结构原理，并将成果应用于三纬叠花闪色数码提花织物的设计开发。开发的产品从不同的角度观察，能呈现出花纹透叠和闪色并存的表面效果，通过设计实验来对比分析在3个不同角度（45°、90°和135°）下观测织物时的效果差异。结果显示，45°是织物织纹和闪色效果最佳的观测角度，135°次之，90°较差。文章提出的设计原理和方法为三纬叠花闪色数码提花织物的创新设计提供了技术支撑，为提花织物的数字化创新设计提供借鉴。

关键词: 叠花, 闪色, 提花织物, 分层组合设计模式, 全显色