Abstract: The tailored jacket plays a unique and important role in the fashion industry. The placket, located in the center of the vision, is a crucial part of both the structure and the shape of the tailored jacket. In addition to the pattern design, the fabric performance has a great impact to the shape of the placket. It is vital to choose the suitable fabric according to the placket shape in the design and production of tailored jackets.
After testing the functions and performances of 28 kinds of fabrics, we chose 10 kinds of fabrics with quite different performance through cluster analysis and made 10 tailored jacket samples with the same patterns, accessories, and process. Based on the SPSS data analysis results, the impact of fabric performance on the shape of the placket was discussed. The relation between the fabric performance and evaluation indexes of the placket shape was elaborated. The regression equations of them were established.
Inclination and overlap were selected as the indexes of objective evaluation to placket shape. The research show that the fabric performance indexes which are correlated with the inclination include gram weight(W), thickness(T), warp density(Mj), drape coefficient(Xc), warp bending strength(Kj), zonal bending strength(Kw), zonal breaking strength(Dw), warp elongation(Sj), zonal elongation(Sw). The fabric performance indexes that are correlated with the overlap index include gram weight(W), drape coefficient(Xc), warp breaking strength(Dj), zonal breaking strength(Dw), warp elongation(Sj), and zonal elongation(Sw). Through regression analysis, the regression equations were established. The placket inclination equation: Y=-3.819W-0.071Sj-0.072kj+31.076; the placket overlap equation: Y=-0.032Xc+0.174Dw-0.174Sj+0.125Sw+2.854. 
Aesthetics and flatness were selected as the indexes of subjective evaluation to placket shape. The study shows that the fabric performance indexes which are correlated with the aesthetics include gram weight (W), drape coefficient(Xc), zonal breaking strength(Dw), warp elongation(Sj), and zonal elongation(Sw). The fabric performance indexes that are correlated with the flatness include gram weight(W), thickness(T), drape coefficient(Xc), zonal bending strength (Kw), zonal breaking strength(Dw) and zonal elongation(Sw). The research established the regression equations based on the regression analysis of subjective evaluation result and fabric performance indexes. Equation of aesthetics: Y=0.248W-0.013Xc+0.045Dw+3.311; Flatness equation: Y=0.454W-0.018Xc+3.245.
In this study, the performance indexes of fabric and the objective evaluation indexes of placket shape were analyzed. The results show that gram weight, warp elongation and zonal elongation are negatively correlated with the inclination of placket; gram weight, zonal breaking strength and zonal elongation are positively correlated with the overlap of placket. The performance indexes of fabric and subjective evaluation indexes of placket were studied, and the results show that gram weight, zonal breaking strength and the aesthetics of the placket are significantly positively correlated. Gram weight and drape coefficient are negatively correlated with the flatness of the placket, while thickness, zonal bending strength, zonal breaking strength and zonal elongation are positively correlated with the flatness of the placket. At the same time, the study shows that there is a great correlation between subjective and objective evaluation indexes. The inclination of placket is small, the overlap is large, and the aesthetics and flatness of the placket are satisfactory.

Key words: tailored jacket, placket, garment shape, fabric performance, aesthetic evaluation

摘要： 西服门襟位于整件服装的视觉中心，是西服结构和造型的重要组成部分。除版型设计外，面料性能也会影响西服门襟的造型。以门襟倾斜度、重叠量作为门襟造型的客观评价指标，并以美观度、平整度作为门襟造型的主观评价指标；通过面料性能测试及门襟造型主客观评价实验，基于SPSS数据分析结果探究面料性能对西服门襟造型的影响。通过回归分析分别建立了门襟倾斜度、重叠量、美观度、平整度与面料性能关系的回归方程。研究表明：克重、厚度、悬垂系数、抗弯刚度、断裂强度和伸长率等面料性能指标会对门襟造型产生影响，主观评价指标与客观评价指标间存在较大的相关性。门襟的倾斜度小，重叠量大，门襟的美观度和平整度较好。

关键词: 西服, 门襟, 服装造型, 面料性能, 美观性评价