Abstract: Silk, due to its soft and smooth texture and comfortable touch, has been widely used in fields such as clothing and home textiles, and the silk industry is one of China's important textile industries. However, there are still some challenges in the production and performance of silk fabrics. In terms of production, the silk industry is an energy-intensive and relatively high-emission industry, and the waste water produced during its production process causes certain pollution to the environment, so environmental protection measures need to be strengthened. In terms of products, silk fabrics are prone to damage and deformation when exposed to water, making it difficult to meet the high-quality and diverse competition requirements of the international market. In terms of color spinning technology, the technique of dyeing before spinning is adopted, which blends differently colored fibers or fibers of different colors and types into yarn. This not only greatly reduces the discharge of dyeing wastewater but also enables precise control of yarn color and diverse combinations, thereby producing textiles with unique colors and effects. Therefore, herein, cotton, cashmere, and wool fibers were selected as raw materials and combined with color spinning technology to address the high pollution and inadequate product performance issues in the silk industry.
We designed a series of color spinning yarns with unique luster and performance by adjusting the fiber composition and ratio in the color spinning process. We investigated the influence of different fiber compositions on the performance of color spinning yarns through the observation of the microstructure of fibers in the yarn and the analysis of mechanical properties. Color spinning technology not only achieves complementary advantages between fiber components, but also overcomes the dyeing differences caused by different raw material structures, thereby improving product quality and added value. It provides a new approach for the development of the traditional silk spinning industry, promoting the development of silk products towards serialization, diversification, high quality, and environmental friendliness. Firstly, through SEM analysis of the distribution and composition of the yarn, the fiber distribution in the silk-colored yarn is basically consistent with the preset blending situation, and the resulting mixed color yarn has a uniform color distribution. Then, through the analysis of yarn hairiness and unevenness of the dryness, the influence of fiber composition and forming process on the appearance and style of the yarn was studied. It is found that the addition of short fibers such as cotton and wool will increase the yarn hairiness and unevenness of the dryness, but the phenomenon of hairiness and unevenness of the dryness can be reduced by increasing the twisting degree. Through mechanical performance analysis, it is found that blending cotton fibers with excellent mechanical strength in silk contributes to enhancing the mechanical strength of dyed spinning, while adding wool fibers helps improve the cohesion between fibers, thereby promoting the elongation at break of dyed spinning. In addition, the twisting process can effectively improve the overall mechanical performance of dyed spinning. In terms of color fastness, silk, cashmere, and wool are all protein fibers, which are less prone to dyeing and prone to fading compared to plant fibers. Therefore, the color fastness under different environmental conditions was studied and analyzed. From the environmental conditions, light radiation has the greatest impact on the color fastness of yarns; from the composition, the presence of cotton fibers helps to improve the color retention ability of yarns, while the presence of cashmere may slightly decrease the color retention ability of fibers.
This study provides a new approach for the development of the traditional silk spinning industry, which can achieve the direction of serialization, diversification, and high quality of silk products. At the same time, colored spun yarn is a blended yarn among different types of dyed fibers, which can improve the performance deficiencies of silk products and achieve diversification of silk series products. Furthermore, its productive process has significant energy-saving and emission-reducing advantages.

Key words: silk yarn, colored spun yarn, wool, cotton fiber, mechanical properties, color fastness

摘要： 绢丝质地柔软光滑、手感舒适，在服装与家居纺织品等领域中得到了广泛应用，是中国绢纺产业的重要产品之一；然而，目前绢丝织物生产仍存在高能耗、高排污问题，且产品竞争力不足。为此，采用低污染的色纺技术对绢丝进行精确配色，并引入羊绒、羊毛、棉等纤维组分，制备色泽独特且性能优异的色纺纱，以满足市场多样化的需求。通过调控纱线中纤维组成与配比，探究其对混纺色纱条干、机械性能及色牢度的影响规律。通过引入不同颜色与配比的各类纤维后，纤维间的优势互补提升了绢丝系列产品的机械性能、色牢度，完善了绢丝产品性能的不足，实现了绢丝系列产品的多样化，减少了绢纺业的生产能耗与排污。

关键词: 绢丝, 色纺纱, 羊毛, 棉纤维, 机械性能, 色牢度