Abstract: The traditional method of developing silk-like fabrics is the reference method or the trial weaving method. When determining the warp and weft density of the fabric, it is necessary to continuously compare and analyze and try weaving on the machine, which is cumbersome and wastes raw materials. With the rapid development of the silk industry, higher requirements have been put forward for the development and production efficiency of silk products, and the production cost control is more stringent. Through the analysis of the calculation method of the on-machine parameters of the silk fabric, it is found that there are few empirical regression methods and theoretical calculation methods, and the warp and weft density of the fabric is closely related to the tightness of the fabric and the fabric structure. Through the analysis of fabric style and performance influencing factors, it is found that tightness, weave structure, warp and weft density have significant effects on many properties and styles of fabrics. Therefore, the fabric tightness model and the fabric structure model can be used as a breakthrough, and the related parameters of the two models are: tightness, fabric tightness coefficient, fabric density conversion coefficient and fabric tightness index. Combined with the empirical equations of the actual maximum on-machine density of silk-like fabrics, a set of on-machine warp and weft density design models suitable for the actual development of silk-like fabrics can be constructed. Galuszynski proposed that fabrics with the same tightness coefficient have some of the same or very similar mechanical properties. Taking the tightness coefficient proposed by Galuszynski as a fixed value, combined with the ratio of warp density to weft density, the maximum on-machine warp and weft density of the silk-like fabric can be calculated, which can ensure that the silk-like fabric achieves both cost control and similar style and performance to silk fabric. To meet the diversity of fabric development,  the density conversion of different fabric structures can be carried out through the tissue density conversion coefficient of fabric structure after developing a textile that is very similar to the silk-style fabric, so as to develop different series of products. Through the analysis of the fabric structure model, a new tissue density conversion coefficient is reasoned and corrected, and the fabric structure is subjected to more detailed density conversion, so that the results calculated by the model are more accurate and practical. Then, the tightness index, the most comprehensive and integrated index that can reflect the tightness of the fabric, is used to theoretically verify the example of the silk fabric. Combined with this example, the optimization design practice of the warp and weft density of the silk-like fabric on the machine is carried out to verify the application value of the model. The results show that the theoretical formula can calculate the tightness coefficient, the maximum on-machine warp and weft density and the issue density conversion coefficient of the silk fabric, which provides a theoretical formula for the optimal design of on-machine density of the silk fabric. The model can accurately design the on-machine warp and weft density of the silk-like fabric with different raw materials, different structures and different structural phases. It can be widely used in polyester, nylon and various rayon fiber fabrics.

Key words: silk-like fabrics, warp and weft density, optimization design, tightness, model

摘要： 针对仿真丝织物开发常用的参照法和试织法不能高效设计实际织物上机经纬密的问题，建立了一套经纬密参数优化设计数学模型。该模型基于Galuszynski的紧度模型，推导出了丝织物的紧密系数方程，并剖析了原直径交叉理论公式存在的不足，推理和修正了新的组织密度换算系数，最后通过真丝织物实例及仿真丝织物上机经纬密的优化设计实践，对模型的应用价值进行了验证。结果表明：该模型可精确设计不同原料、不同纱线细度、不同组织结构的仿真丝织物上机经纬密度，能应用于涤纶、锦纶及各种人造丝的仿真丝织物开发，提高了仿真丝织物的开发效率，为仿真丝织物全数字化的优化设计提供参考。

关键词: 仿真丝织物, 经纬密度, 优化设计, 紧度, 模型