Abstract: The polyester fiber is the largest variety of synthetic fibers in the world, which occupies a very important position in the field of textile and garment. With the improvement of people's living standards, people have also put forward new requirements for polyester blended fabrics, paying more attention to their comfort and functionality. Compared with ordinary polyester, cationic (dyeable) polyester has a softer texture than ordinary polyester, and has a certain hydrophilicity and unique two-color effect. However, in the dyeing process, the energy consumption and water consumption are high, and the production efficiency is low. The wastewater is not conducive to direct discharge, and the wastewater has high color, unstable pH, organic pollutants and high content of refractory components, resulting in a large number of wastewater and wastewater recovery. In addition, the use of various additives increases the difficulty of subsequent fabric cleaning, and the dyeing process is cumbersome and not environmentally friendly, which limits its further industrial development. To explore the dyeing process of cationic polyester blended fabrics, the response surface method (RSM) was used to optimize the process of cationic dyeable polyester, with decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5) as the medium and K/S value as the corresponding value. The main factors affecting the dyeing process of cationic dyeable polyester were screened by Plackett-Berman experiment through the influence of single factors on the dyeing process, such as dye dosage, D5 dosage and dyeing time. P value less than 0.05 was considered to have a significant impact on this factor, and p value less than 0.01 was considered to have an extremely significant impact on this factor. According to the p value, it was found that the dyeing temperature was the biggest factor affecting the K/S value, followed by the amount of dye and the amount of D5. On this basis, three factors having a significant effect on the color depth value were selected, and the response surface method (RSM) was established by using the central composite design (CCD) method. The response surface results were obtained and analyzed. On this basis, the influence of the interaction between various factors on the K/S value of cationic polyester blended fabrics was carried out. In summary, the K/S value was used as the response surface to establish the dyeing process optimization of cationic polyester blended fabrics, and the difference of the obtained response surface model was compared. The results show that the optimum dye dosage of cationic polyester blended fabrics is 1.6% (o.w.f), the dosage of D5 is 93.5%, the dyeing time is 60 min, and the dyeing temperature is 108 °C. The dyeing results show that the K/S value can be increased by increasing the amount of D5 and dyeing temperature, and the dyeing time should not exceed 60 min. RSM experiment predicts the optimal process of cationic polyester blended fabrics. According to this process, the parallel test is carried out, and the comparison error is less than 0.2. It shows that the verification results are basically consistent with the predicted values, which can more accurately reflect the depth of color change. It can fully describe the relationship between the influencing factors of cationic polyester blended fabrics' dyeing conditions and the dyeing results. It shows that the model design is reasonable, stable and reliable. In addition, the color fastness test results of the fabric show that the dyed fabric has good washing resistance, friction resistance and light fastness, all of which are above four levels. RSM provides a simple and effective method to optimize acorn dyeing process. This study provides useful reference for the clean dyeing of cationic polyester blended fabrics

Key words: cationic polyester blended fabric, K/S value, response surface, clean dyeing

摘要： 阳离子涤纶混纺织物在高端服装领域具有广泛的应用潜力，但其染色过程中存在染料利用率低、水耗高的问题，限制了其进一步的推广应用。为探究阳离子涤纶混纺织物在硅基非水介质中的染色工艺条件，利用单因素实验及响应面法对染料用量、十甲基环五硅氧烷(D5)用量、染色时间等影响织物色深(K/S值)的工艺进行优化，并对染色织物的色牢度进行评价。结果表明：在硅基非水介质中，当染色温度108 ℃、染料用量1.6%(o.w.f)、D5用量93.5%(o.w.f)、染色时间60 min及pH为4-5时，染色织物的K/S值达最高，且明显高于传统水浴染色；该染色过程节水93.5%，染色织物色牢度在4-5级以上。研究结果可为阳离子涤纶混纺织物的清洁染色提供有益参考。

关键词: 阳离子涤纶混纺织物, K/S值, 响应面, 清洁染色