Abstract: In order to solve the technical problem of the uncontrollable weave texture of the full-color weave in the triple-weft jacquard fabric structure, 16 ends weft-faced satin weaves with different distributed weave points were selected as the basic weaves, and the compound full-color weave database was applied to the design of compound full-color jacquard fabrics. The compound structure of different diagonal weave textures were weaved and measured. Through the threshold segmentation method,the diagonal direction, angleand visibility of the diagonal weave texture on the fabric surface,and the comprehensive effect of the fabrics were compared,then the influence mechanism of weave texture on the surface of the compound full-color structure were obtained. The results show that: the distribution of weave points of the basic weave in the compound structure is the main factor affecting weave texture of the fabric; the step number determines the diagonal direction of the texture; the density of warp and weft affects diagonal angle of the weave texture; the number of colored wefts and the starting point of basic weaves adjust the obviousness of the fabric weave; under the circumstance of 1:1:1 weft ratio, the diagonal weave texture of the fabric formed by the basic weave with 16-end 7-step is the least obvious. The research results provide a reference for the optimal design of the basic weave step number on the full-color weave in triple-weft jacquard fabric structure.

Key words: jacquard fabric, compound structure, full-color, weave texture, weave step number

摘要： 为解决三纬组合全显提花织物在满足色彩多样性的基础上织纹斜向不可控的技术问题,选用不同组织点分布的16枚纬面缎纹为基础组织,设计组合全显组织库应用于组合全显提花织物设计,并对不同斜向的组合结构进行实物织造与测量。通过阈值分割法对比织物表面织纹斜向方向、角度、明显度和对比织物综合效果,得出组合全显结构表面织纹斜向的影响机理。结果表明:基础组织在组合结构中的组织点分布是影响织物表面织纹斜向的主要因素,飞数决定斜向的方向,经纬密度影响织纹斜向角度,显色纬数量和基础组织起始点位置调节织物织纹斜向明显度;在纬向比为1∶1∶1的设计应用中,循环数为16、飞数为7的基础组织形成的织物织纹斜向最不明显。研究结果为组合全显提花织物结构中基础组织飞数的优选设计提供依据。

关键词: 提花织物, 组合结构, 全显色, 织纹, 飞数