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Table of Content

    10 September 2022, Volume 30 Issue 5
    Invited Column: Image Processing and Numerical Simulation
    Research progress of fabric image processing methods based on convolutional neural network
    ZHENG Yuting, WANG Chengqun, CHEN Liangliang, WU Jiang, LÜ Wentao
    2022, 30(5):  1-11.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202110050
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    Fabric image recognition technology based on convolutional neural network has the advantages of autonomous learning, high accuracy and wide applicability, and has been widely used in textile industry production. This paper reviews the specific applications and research progress of defect classification, defect detection, image classification and image segmentation technology based on convolutional neural networks in the textile field. This article summarizes the improvement points, advantages and disadvantages of various network structures, and at the same time looks forward to the future research directions regarding the current problems. With the continuous optimization of network structure, image recognition methods have their own emphasis on real-time and accuracy, but their robustness and applicability still have a lot of room for development, and further research is needed.
    Fabric defect detection based on improved RefineDet
    RUAN Mengyu, LI Min, HE Ruhan, YAO Xun
    2022, 30(5):  12-20.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202107051
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    To realize the automatic detection and classification of fabric defects, a defect detection method based on Refinedet is proposed. Firstly, VGG16 is changed into a full convolution network to extract fabric image features. Secondly, to obtain the important features of defects and suppress unnecessary features, an attention mechanism is added to the anchor refinement module (ARM). To improve the classification performance of the network, SE module (sequence and exception, SE)is added to the transfer connection block (TCB). Finally, the object detection module (ODM)returns the detection results to the accurate target position, predicts the category of defects and locates the defects. The experimental results show that the average accuracy of this algorithm is 79.7%,which is 5.0% higher than that of the traditional algorithm.
    Knitted fabric simulation based on adaptive remeshing
    HU Xinrong, WANG Zhuo, LIU Junping, PENG Tao, LI Min, LI Li
    2022, 30(5):  21-30.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202111028
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    In order to improve the efficiency of knitted fabric simulation and ensure the authenticityof the simulation effect, a method of using the periodicity of yarn model is proposed. The method first establishes the correspondence between the mesh and the yarn model, and then simulates the mesh model and the yarn model separately. To speed up the mesh simulation and improve the deformation effect under low resolution mesh, the adaptive remeshing technique is used to appropriately subdivide and coarsen the mesh model at the corresponding location according to the degree of deformation, and to calculate the strain on the mesh surface. In terms of microscopic deformation details, the minimum repetitive cell of the yarn is simulated using different strain parameters as input, and the relationship between the input strain parameters and the energy density of the repetitive cell is obtained. Finally, the simulation results are mapped onto the mesh model that has been output by the mesh simulation through the input of the strain parameters obtained in the mesh model. A simulation experiment is taken in fabrics of five different knitting methods. The results show that this method is closer to the real deformation effect than the traditional mesh simulation method, and the number of model vertices and meshes used in the simulation process is reduced by 20%-30% compared with the input mesh, and the time efficiency can be improved by up to 39.7%.
    Image segmentation algorithm of Miao costumes based on fuzzy fitting image
    FENG Run, HUANG Chengquan, HU Xue, ZHOU Lihua, ZHENG Lan
    2022, 30(5):  31-41.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202107008
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    Miao costume images have problems such as embroidery line texture, complex shape and large color difference. In view of these problems, an image segmentation algorithm of Miao costumes based on fuzzy fitting image is proposed. Firstly, the fuzzy local and global fitting images are defined in the image fuzzy region. Meanwhile, according to the nature of Kullback-Leibler divergence used to describe the difference between two probability distributions, the fuzzy energy function is constructed based on the image difference between the original image and the fuzzy local and global fitting images in the Kullback-Leibler divergence, which can drive the initial contour to the target boundary. Next, the adaptive weight is defined by using the normalized intra-class variances of the pixel grayscale inside and outside the contour curves of the image, which can automatically adjust the parameters between the local and global fuzzy energy terms. Finally, we add a regularization term and a length term in the energy function, and an edge detector is introduced into the regularization term and length term to smooth the edge of the image. In the experiment, the validity of the proposed algorithm is verified by experiments on natural images. The similarity and sensitivity coefficients of the segmentation results are above 0.978 and 0.981, respectively. Then, the proposed optimization algorithm is applied to the Miao costume image segmentation. The results show that the proposed algorithm has good segmentation results, and it requires a few iterations and a little segmentation time. Furthermore, the segmentation results are robust to the initial level set function and the Miao costume images.
    Numerical simulation of deposition characteristics of viscous particles on the surface of polyvinylidene fluoride membrane
    ZHU Wenni, LIU Qianqian, JAMSHAID Hafsa, LI Li, ZHU Guocheng
    2022, 30(5):  42-51.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202203033
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    To explore the deposition characteristics of viscous particles on fibrous filters, a 3D model of PVDF membrane was established by a stochastic algorithm, and the discrete element method was adopted to simulate the gas-solid flow in the fiber membrane. The JKR particle contact model was introduced to investigate the effects of particle surface energy and inter-particle collision recovery coefficient on the movement and deposition characteristics of viscous particles, the best surface energy and collision recovery coefficient for viscous particles deposited on the surface of fiber were obtained. Then, the deposition of viscous particles with a particle size of 2-7 μm was simulated. The results indicate that the particle surface energy, restitution coefficient and particle size are all significant elements influencing the deposition characteristics of viscous particles. The decrease of surface energy and the increase of restitution coefficient or particle size can increase the capture efficiency. The particles are more likely to form stable deposition and agglomeration forms on the fiber surface.
    Numerical simulation of melt spinning process of polyester industrial yarn
    ZHANG Wei, CHENG Wenkai, ZHANG Xianming
    2022, 30(5):  52-59.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202201058
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    In order to investigate the melt flow law of polyester industrial yarn during melt spinning, a model was built according to spinneret orifices used by enterprises and a numerical simulation of melt spinning process of polyester industrial yarn was carried out by adopting three-dimensional finite element method (FEM). The effects of the convergence angle, the aspect ratio and the distribution of inlet flow of the spinneret orifice on the temperature field, velocity field, shear rate and pressure field were compared and analyzed. The results show that the temperature field is insensitive to changes of spinneret orifice structure and is greatly affected by the inlet flow rate. When the convergence angle increases, the growth rate of velocity in transition zone increases. If the aspect ratio is too big, the shearing effect of the melt is strengthened by the die section, which is not conducive to the uniform distribution of velocity. The inlet flow rate has great influence on the melt flow state. Besides, it is the most conducive to the uniform distribution of weloaty when the spinneret orifice has an convergence angle of 73 ° and an aspect ratio of three.
    Numerical simulation of compression deformation of natural latex foam
    CHEN Shunwei, LI Chunchun, SUN Mengqing, WANG Xueqin
    2022, 30(5):  60-66.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202109018
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    In order to analyze the compression performance of bedding latex foam and establish mathematical models of the deformation, pressure and thickness of the latex foam to facilitate the design of latex products, the finite element method was used to simulate and analyze its compression performance. First, the compressive, shear, and tensile properties of latex foam for bedding are tested, obtaining the stress and strain of three mechanical experiments. Combining the experimental results, three methods of "hyper foam test data, hyper foam model parameter method and low-density foam method" were used to simulate uniaxial compression for bedding latex foam in the finite element software ABAQUS. The simulation results and the experimental values are analyzed by fitting, and the results show that the degree of fit is the highest when the low-density foam method is used for simulation, reaching 98.71%. Therefore, the "low-density foam method" is used for simulation, which is relatively close to the actual compression performance of bedding latex foam. Then deformation simulation research on latex foam micro-element is performed. Through simulation experiment analysis of different thickness and deformation under a certain pressure, and simulation experiment analysis of different pressure and deformation under a certain thickness, the three types of deformation, pressure and thickness of latex foam are obtained. The mathematical model provides help for the subsequent personalized latex product size design. At the same time, as an innovative technology, the numerical simulation research method also provides a more convenient and scientific method for the research and design of textile materials and textile products.
    Materials Engineering
    Effect of chain extension time on properties of polyurethane and electrospun nanofibers
    WANG Huijia, CHEN Qiang, YI Yuqing, SHI Jingya, LI Ni
    2022, 30(5):  67-73.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202202029
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    In order to optimize the mechanical properties and wettability of polyurethane nanofiber microporous membrane, polyurethane (PU) was synthetised with polytetrahydrofuran ether glycol (PTMG), 4,4′-methylene bis (phenyl isocyanate)(4,4′-MDI) and 1,4-butanediol (BDO) as the main raw materials. Then nanofiber membranes were prepared by electrospinning. The effects of different chain extension reaction times on the physical properties and fiber membrane properties of synthetic polyurethane were studied. The structure and morphology of PU were characterized by infrared spectrometer (FTIR), gel permeation chromatography (GPC), thermogravimetric analyzer (TG), scanning electron microscope (SEM) and dynamic/static contact angle analyzer. The results showed that the thermal stability of the synthesized polyurethane slightly increased and the film forming performance of the nanofibers increased with the increase of the molecular weight of the polyurethane when the chain expanding reaction time increased from 90 min to 120 min. When the chain extension reaction time was 120 min, the breaking stress of the fiber membrane was 6.8 MPa, and the elongation at break reached the value of 139%. The hydrophobic property was obviously improved with the increase of chain extension reaction time. When the time was 120 min, the water contact angle was still as high as 112° after 240 s.
    The effects of soft segments on microphase separation of solvent-free polyurethane resin
    YANG Hao, TIAN Qianjun, SHI Lei, WANG Lin, HUANG Zhichao, QI Dongming
    2022, 30(5):  74-81.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202111026
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    Four kinds of solvent-free polyurethanes(SFPU) resin films were prepared by two-component prepolymer in-situ blending polymerization,in which modified diphenylmethane diisocyanate (MDI) and 1,4-butanediol (BDO) acted as hard segments and Polycaprolactone diol(PCL), polycarbonates of 1,6-hexanediol (PCDL), poly (tetramethylene oxide glycol) (PTMEG) and polyoxypropylene glycol (PPG) acted as soft segments, respectively.The effects of soft segment structure on the microphase separation, crystallinity, thermal and mechanical properties of SFPU were investigated by Fourier transforminfrared,X-ray diffraction, differential scanning calorimetry, tensile test and dynamic mechanical property analysis.The results show that PTMEG-SFPU with weak polarity and unbranched chain has high degree of microphase separation, crystallinity and thermal stability.Besides, its glass transition temperatureis as low as -58.6 ℃ and the elongation at break is as high as 371.1%.The highly polar PCDL-SFPU has a weak degree of microphase separation, good compatibility between soft and hard segments, and a higher glass transition temperature. The tensile strength of PCDL-SFPU reaches 32.7 MPa and modulus reaches 23.3 MPa.
    Shear rheological properties of a clay mineral material modified polypropylene and its spinnability
    ZHI Haiping, ZHANG Shunhua, XU Zhuo
    2022, 30(5):  82-88.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202106001
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    In order to explore the spinnability of Quantum energy radiating material(QE powder) modified polypropylene(PP) blends, QE powder was used as a modifier, and polypropylene was filled and blended to obtain modified PP slices with different QE particle mass fractions. The shear rheological properties of modified PP slices were tested and characterized by using a double-column capillary rheometer. The modified PP blend fiber was prepared by melt spinning method, and the morphology and mechanical properties of the fiber were tested and analyzed by scanning electron microscope and yarn tenacity meter.The results show that the addition of modifier QE powder does not change the fluid type of the modified PP blend which is still a shear thinning fluid, but enhances its non-Newtonian properties. With the increase of QE powder, the flow resistance of the mixture of QE powder and PP, and the shear viscosity, shear stress and viscous flow activation energy of the modified PP blends are increased;at the temperature of 260 ℃ and the shear rate of 469.58 s-1, when the mass fraction of QE powder increases to 8%, the non-Newtonian index n value decreases by 19.62%, the shear viscosity increases by 52.60%, and the shear stress also increases by 67.78%compared with pure PP; the QE particles are uniformly loaded on the surface of the modified PP blend fiber, and the fracture strength and elongation of the modified PP fiber decrease.
    Preparation and thermal properties of poly (ethylene terephthalate-co- isosorbide terephthalate) with a novel Ti-Al catalyst
    XIE Shangdong, SUN Lijiang, ZHU Kaiyang, CHEN Shichang, CHEN Wenxing
    2022, 30(5):  89-96.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202201042
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    In order to increase the glass transition temperature (Tg) of polyethylene terephthalate (PET) and broaden the application field of PET, poly (ethylene terephthalate-co-isosorbide terephthalate) (PEIT) was prepared by direct esterification with bio-based isosorbide (ISB) as the third monomer and self-made Ti-Al bimetallic coordination compound as catalyst.The structure and thermal properties of the copolyester were characterized by nuclear magnetic resonance, Fourier transform infrared spectrometer, differential scanning calorimeter, and thermogravimetric analyzer.The results show that the self-made catalyst has good catalytic activity for ISB. When adding less than 15% of ISB, the reaction rate can reach 90%, and the copolyester product with an intrinsic viscosity of about 0.65 dL/g can be quickly obtained. The intrinsic viscosity of the copolyester increased to about 1.20 dL/g after 1.5 h of melting post polycondensation, which indicates that the copolyester prepared by the titanium-based catalyst has strong chain growth ability during melt polycondensation. Increasing the proportion of ISB in the synthesis will reduce the intrinsic viscosity of the copolyester, but the crystallization temperature(Tc) of the copolyester will increase and the melting point(Tm) will decrease. There is a positive correlation between glass transition temperature (Tg) and the added ISB content. When the amount of ISB added reaches 20%, the Tg of the copolyester reaches 94.7 ℃, and the correlation calculation formula of Tg and ISB content is obtained by fitting.However, when the amount of ISB exceeds 15%, the polymer begins to transform into an amorphous polymer, but its thermal decomposition performance is not significantly affected.
    Preparation of conductive hydrogel based on graphene oxide/Nano-silver and its performance
    ZHU Bizhi, LIN Hong, CHEN Yuyue, ZHANG Desuo
    2022, 30(5):  97-103.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202112053
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    In order to develop smart sensors based on graphene oxide/nano silver (GO/AgNPs), PVA/SA conductive double crosslinked hydrogels were prepared by using polyvinyl alcohol (PVA)/sodium alginate (SA) double crosslinked hydrogel as substrate and GO/AgNPs composite as conductive filler. A strong hydrogel with high mechanical properties can be formed by mixing PVA and SA in a certain proportion and freezing crosslinking. By adjusting the mass concentration of PVA solution and changing the ratio of PVA to SA, a strong hydrogel with a breaking elongation of 250% can be prepared. When the mass fraction of conductive polymer in the hydrogel is 2.0 mg/mL, it exhibits good electrical conductivity, and its resistance increases significantly with the increase of elongation. The sensitivity of the prepared hydrogel sensor is up to 1.0, which can be used to detect the basic movement of human body.
    Preparation and properties of fully-degradable glass fiber reinforced composites
    NIE Lei, LI Jiawei, YAN Xiaofei, QI Dongming, YANG Xiaoming, LI Yaobang, ZHU Chenkai
    2022, 30(5):  104-111.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202201015
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    In order to develop the fully degradable polylactic acid composites with high performance, the compression moulding technique was adopted to prepare the unidirectional fiber reinforced polylactic acid composites with twisted yarns and untwisted yarns constructed by continuous phosphate glass fiber through twisted ply and untwist ply as he reinforcement. Based on the analysis of the bending property, such methods as scanning electron microscope (SEM), degradation and weight loss as well as pH testing were adopted to analyze the influence of yarn structure and fiber volume content on the mechanical properties and degradation behavior during degradation. The results indicate that the continuous phosphate glass fiber yarns can effectively improve the structural properties of composite materials, while the flexural strength and modulus of the compositesare further decreased by 22% and 10%, respectively, due to twisted structure of yarns. However, during the degradation process, it is found that the mechanical properties of the composite material decline with the degradation of phosphate glass fibres. After 28 days of degradation, the fibers are completely degraded, and the flexural strengthand modulus of the composite material are reduced by 85% and 90%, respectively.
    Textile Engineering
    Influence and mechanism of technological innovation on high-end textile Industry: Based the perspective of total factor productivity
    XU Ling, ZHANG Hong, SHI Qin, ZENG Kailin
    2022, 30(5):  112-123.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202110005
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    Technological innovation is the key to achieving high end oriented industry, and the most direct embodiment of it is the improvement of TFP. Based on the data of 92 listed enterprise in textile industries during the period of 2016-2020, we measure TFP by using the methods of DEA-Malmquist index to reveal the high-end level of the textile industry, and empirically analyze the impact relationship and mechanism of technological innovation on TFP. The result shows that the high-end level of the textile industry is still in the basic high-end, which is not enough. Empirical analysis shows that the technological innovation has a negative effect on current TFP, and the improvement of technological innovation has a hysteresis effect. For companies in different ownership and managers, technology innovation has heterogeneity on TFP. Further study found that there existed masking effect (full intermediary effects) in terms of competitive advantage between technological innovation (lagging period) and TFP. Moreover, enterprise performance is characterized by partial intermediary effects between technological innovation (lagging period) and TFP. Based on the above results, the authors put forward high-end policy suggestions for how to enhance the degree of high-end, improve hysteresis effect and power mechanism of technological innovation.
    Influence of full-color weave in triple-weft jacquard fabric structure on surface texture
    HU Yili, ZHOU Jiu
    2022, 30(5):  124-130.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202202019
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    In order to solve the technical problem of the uncontrollable weave texture of the full-color weave in the triple-weft jacquard fabric structure, 16 ends weft-faced satin weaves with different distributed weave points were selected as the basic weaves, and the compound full-color weave database was applied to the design of compound full-color jacquard fabrics. The compound structure of different diagonal weave textures were weaved and measured. Through the threshold segmentation method,the diagonal direction, angleand visibility of the diagonal weave texture on the fabric surface,and the comprehensive effect of the fabrics were compared,then the influence mechanism of weave texture on the surface of the compound full-color structure were obtained. The results show that: the distribution of weave points of the basic weave in the compound structure is the main factor affecting weave texture of the fabric; the step number determines the diagonal direction of the texture; the density of warp and weft affects diagonal angle of the weave texture; the number of colored wefts and the starting point of basic weaves adjust the obviousness of the fabric weave; under the circumstance of 1:1:1 weft ratio, the diagonal weave texture of the fabric formed by the basic weave with 16-end 7-step is the least obvious. The research results provide a reference for the optimal design of the basic weave step number on the full-color weave in triple-weft jacquard fabric structure.
    Evaluation method of unidirectional moisture conductivity of polyester woven fabrics
    MA Chen, JIN Xiaoke, TANG Shali, ZHU Chengyan
    2022, 30(5):  131-138.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202111034
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    Based on the unidirectional moisture conduction mechanism, a unidirectional moisture conduction woven fabric with polyester fiber as raw material is designed and used for trial woven. According to the analysis of influencing factors such as fiber material and warp and weft yarn distribution, an evaluation method suitable for polyester woven fabric is proposed. The capillary effect height of warp and weft raw materials and the distribution of different kinds of fibers in the fabric are measured and calculated, and the unidirectional moisture conductivity U value which can reflect the unidirectional moisture conductivity of single-layer woven fabric is obtained. The smaller the U value, the stronger the unidirectional moisture conductivity of the fabric. Through linear regression analysis and correlation coefficient calculation, the U value matches well with the unidirectional moisture conductivity of the sample.
    Prediction on sound insulation of multilayer composite spunbonded nonwovens based on rough set and artificial neural network
    JIN Guanxiu, DONG Mengbin, ZHU Chengyan
    2022, 30(5):  139-148.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202108041
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    In order to predict the sound insulation of multilayer composite spunbonded nonwovens, a prediction method based on rough set theory and artificial neural network was introduced.Using attribute reduction, a reduction set composed of thickness, fiber diameter and porosity was extracted from the fiber web structural parameter set of multilayer composite spunbonded nonwovens which comprises 10 structural parameters. The values of sound transmission loss corresponding to 24 frequencies for 25 multilayer composite spunbonded nonwoven samples were predicted based on the 120 BP neural network models by taking the above three parameters as the inputs and changing the number of neurons in the hidden layer. The experimental results show that the overall average of mean absolute percentage error between the predicted and measured values of sound transmission loss for all samples is only 3.47%. Besides, those models with eight neurons in hidden layer have the highest prediction accuracy. This indicates that the sound insulation of multilayer composite spunbonded nonwovens can be accurately predicted using thickness, fiber diameter and porosity, which proves the rationality of the reduction result based on rough set.
    The yarn laying process during yarn adjusting on seamless underwear machines
    GUO Xuanli, PENG Laihu, DAI Ning, HU Xudong
    2022, 30(5):  149-156.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202112050
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    The yarn laying process of the seamless underwear machines’yarn adjusting mechanismdirectly affects whether the knitting needle can hook the yarn stably, and then affects the quality of the knitted fabric. As for the yarn leakage and even the needle firing during the yarn adjustment process of the existing seamless underwear machines, the main reason is that the knitting needle participates in the knitting prematurely when the yarn is adjusted and the fingers are changed. The time required for the yarn adjusting fingers to enter the safe yarn area alternately lacks quantitative research. In order to solve this problem, the reliable lay-up height range of eight groups of yarn adjusting fingers was calculatedaccording to the geometric relationship between the yarn adjusting mechanism and the yarn, and time required for each group of yarn adjusting fingers to safely enter the yarn laying area after changing was calculated by combining the longitudinal movement trajectory of the eight groups of adjusting fingers taken by the high-speed camera. The results provide a theoretical and experimental basis for the improvement of yarn adjusting mechanisms in the future.
    Preparation and blood flow behavior evaluation of CVCWvascular grafts
    MENG Fenye, LI Yuling, ZHANG Limin, WANG Qinhua, WU Yan
    2022, 30(5):  157-166.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202112020
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    To analyze the influence of the wall structure on fluid flow behavior of continuous variable cross-sections woven tubular vascular grafts (CVCW), nine CVCW specimens with different wall structures and taper angles were prepared based on the advantages of biomimetic design. Their structural parameters and related properties such as thickness, porosity and water permeability were measured. Then the blood flow behavior in the axial direction of the CVCW vascular grafts was evaluated through simulation method. The effects of weave patterns and taper angles on the local blood flow behavior were quantitatively analyzed. The results show that the local blood flow behavior is affected by the factors of weave patterns, porosity, and water permeability of CVCW vascular grafts, so more attention should be paid in the future design of artificial blood vessels.
    Dyeing and Finishing & Chemical Engineering
    Preparation and sustained-releaseproperties of poly(MMA-co-TMPTA)/fragrance microcapsules
    DU Mengyu, ZHU Jianzheng, OUYANG Xu, XU Shixiang, ZHANG Zhaoxia, ZHANG Guoqing
    2022, 30(5):  167-173.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202109060
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    Polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) is one of the commonly used encapsulation materials for the preparation of sustained-release fragrancemicrocapsules. However, in practical production, the encapsulation efficiency is low and uncoated fragrance will cause bad smell and large waste. In this study, Lavender/(PMMA-co-TMPTA) fragrance microcapsules were prepared by in-situ polymerization with trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA) as comonomer. The lavender flavor microcapsules were characterized by scanning electron microscope (SEM), thermogravimetric analyzer (TGA), pyrolysis gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (PGC-MS) and electronic nose (PEN-3). The influence of core shell ratio on encapsulation efficiency of microcapsules was also investigated. The results showed that the prepared Lavender/(PMMA-co-TMPTA) microcapsules were pomegranate with rough surface and concave, and the particle size was between 10~20 μm. It was found that when the core-shell ratio was 1.5 : 1, the lavender microcapsule had uniform size and good stability, and the encapsulation efficiency was as high as 94.2%. The microcapsule was treated on the fabric for long-term release experiment. The results showed that the microencapsulated Lavender had excellent sustained release properties, and the flavor on the fabric could be maintained for more than three months.
    Preparation of fluorescent PTCA labeled PVA size and its properties
    LONG Zhu, LI Manli, LU Haojie, ZHOU Jiu, WANG Yifeng
    2022, 30(5):  174-180.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202201032
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    Aiming at the solution to the problems of low accuracy and poor variety adaptability of the measurement method of the permeability and coating property of sizing paste to warp yarn in textile area at present, and taking polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) as the representative of common sizes, various concentrations of fluorescent molecule-3,4,9,10-perylene tetracarboxylic acid (PTCA) were used to label PVA to prepare PTCA-PVA fluorescent sizes with different degrees of labeling (DL) for the first time. Then the PVA sizes were employed to size pure cotton warp yarns. After preparing the sections of the sized yarns, the area of each component in the cross section was measured by using fluorescence microscope and Photoshop software. The permeability and coating percentage of PVA paste to the yarns were calculated. The main use performances such as breaking strength, wear resistance and yarn hairiness covering of PTCA-PVA and unlabeled PVA sizing were compared and tested. The results show that the PTCA-PVA with an appropriate DL (i.e. 0.0127 mol percent) exhibits good fluorescence property and very similar sizing performance to that of unlabeled PVA. It is considered that fluorescence labeling of main sizing agents used in weaving procedure with PTCA can provide a more universal and accurate way for the determination of the permeability and coating property of the sizing paste to warp yarns.
    The effect of fluorescent whitening agent on color of natural brown cotton and its mechanism of action
    HUANG Xintao, MA Mingbo, ZHOU Wenlong
    2022, 30(5):  181-187.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202112024
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    In order to explore the effect of fluorescent whitening agent (FWA) on the color of natural brown cotton (NBC), the natural brown cotton was treated with bis(triazing)aminostibene fluorescent whitening agents with different charged groups. The relevant color properties were tested and analyzed, and the mechanism of action of fluorescent whitening agent on brown cotton pigment was further studied. The results show that the bis(triazing)aminostibene fluorescent whitening agent with a positively charged group at the end has a good deepening effect on NBC; the interaction between FWA and NBC pigment is not a chemical reaction to generate new substances, but physical adsorption is formed on NBC; electrostatic force, van der Waals force and hydrogen bond can affect the physical effect of FWA on brown cotton pigment. The color of NBC treated with FWA is obviously darkened and the color is improved, which has practical value for the development of natural brown cotton products.
    Research on the dyeing performance of chenille yarn containing biodegradable polyester fiber
    XU Tianwei, CHAI Luna, TANG Qi, WANG Chenglong, JIN Shulan, CHEN Dongmei, ZHENG Jinhuan
    2022, 30(5):  188-196.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202110021
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    Based on the study of the basic dyeing properties of PLA fiber and PLA/PHBV blend fiber, two kinds of chenille yarns containing biodegradable polyester fiber (chenille yarn I and chenille yarn II) were trial-produced by the authors. The research explored the effects of dyeing temperature, time, and pH value on their dyeing performance. The results show that Disperse Red 60, Disperse Yellow SA-GL and Disperse Blue 56 are suitable for dyeing PLA fiber and PLA/PHBV fiber. After dyeing at 100℃ and 110℃, the breaking strength of PLA fiber decreases by 4.0% and 5.2%, respectively while that of the PLA/PHBVblend fibers decreases by 10.1% and 18.9%, respectively.The suitable dyeing condition for chenille yarn I with disperse dyes is at the pH value of 4~5, dyeing temperature of 100~110℃, and a duration of 40min; the suitable dyeing condition for chenille yarn II with disperse dyesis at the pH value of 4~5, dyeing temperature of 110℃, and a duration of 30~40min.Under the above dyeing process conditions, the color fastness to rubbing and colorfastness to washing of chenille yarn I and chenille yarn II are both at or above 3~4. It proves that products meeting application requirements can be obtained after the chenille yarns produced with PLA fiber and PLA/PHBVblend fibers are dyed through suitable dyeing process.
    Construction and properties of micro/nano water repellent surface of modified cotton fabrics
    WU Mingxing, WANGJinqian, GE Yanfang
    2022, 30(5):  197-205.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202112057
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    In order to prepare washable hydrophobic cotton fabric, the pure cotton woven fabric was used as the matrix, and it was modified with citric acid, and then the silica nano particles were attached to the surface of cotton fabric by impregnation method (two dipping and two rolling) to increase the surface roughness of cotton fabric, and then long-chain alkane hydrophobic groups were introduced to reduce the surface energy of cotton fabric. As a result,the micro/nano water-repellent surface structure was formed under the joint action and hydrophobic cotton fabric was obtained.The structure and particle size distribution of silica sol were characterized by Fourier infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) and laser particle size analyzer, and structural composition, surface elements and morphology of cotton fabric before and after finishing were characterized by field emission scanning electron microscope (SEM) and X-ray electron spectroscopy (XPS).In the meanwhile, the influence of the concentration of citric acid, the concentration of hexadecyltrimethoxysilane (HDTMS), the baking temperature and the baking time on the water contact angle was investigated.Finally, the changes of stain resistance, washing fastness and physical properties of cotton fabric before and after finishing were studied. The results show that when the mass fraction of citric acid is 3%, the mass fraction of hexadecyltrimethoxysilane is 3%, the baking temperature is 140 ℃, and the baking time is 150 s, the water contact angle of the finished fabric is 157.3°,and the surface of the cotton fabric has micro/nano rough structure, the fabric exhibits good water repellency.After 20 times of washing, it can still maintain a good water repellent effect.In addition, the cotton fabric still has good physical properties after hydrophobic treatment.
    Study on the effect of spandex colorant on the dyeing homochromaticity and color fastness of polyamide/spandex fabric
    JIANG Wuwei, LAI Zhongkai, XING Yajie, HAO Haitao, CHEN Xu, LI Yongqiang
    2022, 30(5):  206-212.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202201056
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    In order to improve the light color and poor color fastness of polyamide/spandex fabric in one bath dyeing with acid dyes, the method of adding spandex colorant in dyeing was adopted to improve the homochromaticity and color fastness of polyamide/spandex fabric. The effects of different spandex colorants on improving the K/S value of spandex and their optimum dosage were explored. The effects of spandex colorant applied to different dyes on the homochromaticity and colour fastness of polyamide/spandex fabric were also investigated. The results show that spandex colorant has a good effect on improving the K/S value of spandex, and it is suitable for a variety of monocolour and blended dyes. It has different effects on different dyes. When the dosage is between 1% and 2%, it can effectively improve the homochromaticity of polyamide/spandex fabric. Meanwhile, the colour fastness to soap washing is also significantly improved. This study can provide data reference for the actual production of polyamide/spandex fabric.
    Preparation of self-cleaning multifunctional cotton fabrics based on nano-Cs0.33WO3 and its properties
    TAN Wei, MA Mingbo, ZHOU Wenlong
    2022, 30(5):  213-221.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202202030
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    To prepare multifunctional cotton fabrics with water and oil repellency, UV resistance and heat insulation, fluorosilane triethoxy-1H,1H,2H,2H-tridecafluoro-n-octylsilane (POTS) and cesium tungsten bronze nanoparticles (Cs0.33WO3 NPs) were co-blended in ethanol, and then the fabrics were dip-rolled and dried in a "one-step" process. The effect of the mass fraction of Cs0.33WO3 NPs on the UV resistance and thermal insulation of the cotton fabrics was investigated. The results showed that the water and oil repellency of the cotton fabrics after finishing with POTS mass fraction 2.3% and Cs0.33WO3 NPs mass fraction 2.4% was significantly improved, with a surface water contact angle of 155°. The oil resistance of the cotton fabrics with superhydrophobic properties was significantly improved. When the cotton fabric was loaded with Cs0.33WO3 mass fraction 0.075%, its UPF was 153.3, much higher than that of the untreated cotton fabric (UPF was 15.03), while the temperature of the self-made thermal insulation device was reduce by 4.1 ℃, and the finished cotton fabric with UV-Visible-near infrared region had strong light shielding performance.The finishing fabric, with no great change in style, exhibited good breathability and mechanical stability.
    Comprehensive Review
    Review of antimicrobial materials with bionic micro-nano structure
    ZHUGE Yina, LIU Fujuan
    2022, 30(5):  222-234.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202110024
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    In recent years, with the development of bionics, the physical antibacterial materials with micro-nano structure exhibit excellent antibacterial properties, attracting the attention of a large number of researchers. Therefore, the antibacterial materials based on bionic micro-nano structure have become a research hotspot. This paper introduces the morphology, characteristics and antibacterial mechanism of antibacterial materials with bionic micro-nano structure, outlines several preparation methods commonly used for antibacterial materials in recent years as well as their advantages and disadvantages, and evaluates the antibacterial effect of each antibacterial material with the micro-nano structure. The characteristics and advantages of materials are analyzed and compared. Finally, the research directions of biomimetic antibacterial textile materials are summarized and prospected.
    Research progress on surface modification of ultra-high molecular weight polyethyene fibers
    LI Meixia, LÜ Wangyang, WANG Gangqiang, CHEN Wenxing
    2022, 30(5):  235-245.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202111058
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    Ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) fibers have received widespread attention due to their excellent properties like high strength, high modulus and low density. However, UHMWPE fibers exhibit poor adhesion with resins resulting from the lack of polar functional groups and high surface inertness, which leads to a limitation of the application in the field of composite materials.The interfacial properties can be effectively increased by surface modification. Firstly, this review examines the recent research on the surface modification of UHMWPE fibers, and introduces the interfacial properties and mechanism of fiber reinforced polymers (FRP). Then, it summarizes the findings of current treatments to improve interfacial adhesion, including plasma treatment, radiation-induced surface grafting, oxidation etching, corona discharge and coating. Besides, it discusses the pros and cons of each modification method. Finally, future development is proposed.
    Research progress of electrospinning nanofiber-based sound-absorbing materials
    LI Xiao, LIU Yuanjun, ZHAO Xiaoming
    2022, 30(5):  246-258.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202201033
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    Noise pollution is a serious threat to people's physical and mental health. Electrospinning nanofiber materials are excellent sound-absorbing and noise-reducing materials. Based on this, a review of electrospinning nanofiber-based sound-absorbing materials is launched. First, the reason why electrospinning nanofiber materials are widely used in the field of sound absorption is explained: electrospinning technology involves simple equipment, abundant raw materials, controllable technology and low cost. Nanofiber materials have the sound absorption characteristics of high specific surface area and high porosity. Secondly, the authors briefly describe the sound absorption principle, influencing factors and test methods of the materials. Finally, the authors have a comprehensive discussion of three ways to improve the sound absorption performance of materials based on electrospinning nanofibers: composite structure, material modification and electrospinning nanofiber aerogels.
    Bibliometric-based study on knowledge mapping of science and technology innovation in the international textile industry
    WANG Pengfei, CHENG Hua
    2022, 30(5):  259-272.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202110058
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    Technological innovation is an important way to promote the high-quality development of the textile industry, and it is also an important measure to achieve the development of textile technology and industrial upgrading. Based on the core collection of the Web of Science database, this paper uses CiteSpace and HistCite graph analysis software to comprehensively analyze the basic status, focus and research trends of the textile industry in the field of scientific and technological innovation. The analysis found that: Chinese scholars have obvious advantages in the amount of publications in the field of scientific and technological innovation in the international textile industry, but there is still a certain gap regarding the quality of literature compared with developed countries such as Europe and the United States. Textile molding manufacturing, new textile fiber materials, advanced textile products, green dyeing and finishing technology and smart textile equipment and systems are the current research hotspots. The subject terms such as electronic smart textiles, ecological textiles and smart manufacturing technology have developed rapidly in the past two years and have become the research frontiers in this field.