Table of Content

10 November 2022, Volume 30 Issue 6

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Invited Column: Bibliometric Analysis of Textile

Domestic advance progress of intelligent cotton textile based on CiteSpace graph

CAO Jiqiang, WANG Yong, TANG Xinjun, CHEN Chao

2022, 30(6):  1-7.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202206055

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In recent year, with the progress of the Internet of Things, artificial intelligence, and big data, etc. the intelligent research of textile industry has developed rapidly. Bibliometrics and the knowledge graph method were used as the research method, and CiteSpace scientific literature visualization analysis software was used to visually analyze the publication volume, research units, authors, and keywords of each year over the previous 20 years in order to clearly understand the research status and trend of cotton spinning enterprise intelligence in China. The findings demonstrate that China's cotton textile industry has undergone a scale of intelligent research in recent years, and literary study in this area has generally shown an increasing trend. However, there is a lack of network density among research teams and employees, poor communication, insufficient cooperation, and imperfect exchange and cooperation mechanisms. Digitalization, intelligence, and energy conservation have emerged as the top research trends for cotton textile intelligent firms, and intelligent research has grown in popularity according to the keyword map. Finally, A more developed intelligent system team should then be formed by universities, research institutes, etc. after improving collaboration and information exchanges with cotton spinning businesses. In order to achieve low equipment manufacturing costs, large data flows, and intelligent self-sustainability, it is also important to strengthen interdisciplinary integration and in-depth integration with businesses. This will help to promote the application of intelligent and sustainable development in China's textile industry.

Visual analysis of domestic cotton textile processing research hotspots in recent ten years based on CiteSpace

ZHANG Chaoyu, XIAO Yuyan, REN Zehua, WANG Bingxin, LIU Jianli

2022, 30(6):  8-15.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202205034

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Cotton textile has an important position in the textile industry in China and even in the world, and it is also a hot spot of continuous research by domestic scholars. This paper uses CiteSpace software to retrieve relevant papers on cotton, yarn and cotton fabric processing collected by CNKI from 2012 to 2021 as sample data to analyze and track the research hotspots of domestic universities in the field of cotton textile processing. Taking cotton textile processing as the research object, this paper discusses the changing trend of the number of annual papers published by domestic universities in the field of cotton textile processing, and analyzes the data distribution of keywords, authors and scientific research institutions in this field. At the same time, the paper describes the studying satiation in the field of Chinese cotton processing and shows the knowledge structures, development routes and research hotspots in this fieldusing CiteSpace. The results show that: the number of papers published by Chinese university scholars in the field of cotton textiles shows a downward trend from 2012 to 2021; the research hotspots in the field of domestic cotton textile processing mainly focus on spinning technology innovation, functional modification of cotton fabrics, green production and intelligent manufacturing; and the number of related research academic papers shows a trend of significant increase.

Research on the dynamic evolution and innovation frontier of domestic smart textile technology integration based on knowledge graph

WANG Pengfei, CHENG Hua

2022, 30(6):  16-27.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202204050

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Technological innovation is an important way to help the high-quality development of the textile industry as well as an important measure to achieve the development of textile technology and industrial upgrading. Based on the incoPat patent database platform, this paper uses Gephi and other graph analysis software to analyze the development trend, dynamic evolution, hot spots and frontiers of domestic intelligent textile technology integration and innovation research. The results show that since the beginning ofthe 21^st century, the number of patented technology integration in this field can be roughly divided into germination stage, rapid growth stage and stable development stage, showing an upward trend year by year. After 2012, the patented technology integration with dimensions such as intelligence, security and efficiency tends to be pronounced. In terms of improving product convenience, reducing complexity and improving efficiency, the dynamic effect of technology integration is more significant. Through the visualization analysis of dynamic evolution data of technology integration, it is found that there are obvious differences in the number of fusion patents of intelligent textile technology in the three different stages. Under the influence of COVID-19, intelligent textile technology has played a positive role in promoting the safety and performance of medical protective clothing and related wearable devices.Finally, through cluster analysis and text mining, new models of intelligent manufacturing, intelligent textile equipment and commonalities technology, and new textile materials are the current research hotspots in this field, and technologies such as textile molding manufacturing, new textile fiber materials, advanced textile products and wearable systems have developed rapidly in the past two years, becoming the research frontier in this field.

Review on environmental impact assessment of waste textiles and clothing recycling

CHEN Shuang, HUANG Qianwen, LIU Can, WANG Caihong, WANG Luyao, YE Xiangyu, WANG Laili

2022, 30(6):  28-36.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202206029

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In order to study the environmental impact assessment of waste textiles and clothing recycling, this paper adopts CiteSpace visual literature analysis tool to conduct bibliometric analysis on the Chinese and English literature on the environmental impact assessment of waste textiles and clothing recycling, and discusses the environmental impact results of waste textiles and clothing recycling, the environmental benefit calculation of recycling, the method of environmental impact sharing, and comprehensive evaluation of environmental impact. The results show that the environmental impact is significantly different when the same waste textile is treated by different recycling processes or the waste textile is regenerated into different products. The environmental benefits of the recycling of waste textiles and clothing can be obtained through the system expansion method. Including replacement rate and quality of recycled raw materials can improve the calculation accuracy and avoid subjective evaluation of environmental benefits. The environmental benefits of the recycling of waste textiles and clothing can be reasonably shared between the two life cycles, which can benefit multiple parties and avoid double-counting of environmental benefits. The comprehensive assessment of environmental impact can be characterized by value method, scoring method and geometric area method, so as to compare the overall environmental impact of different regeneration methods.

Materials Engineering

Melt polycondensation characteristics of flame retardant copolyesters containing phosphorus linked pendant groups

SHANGXiaoyu, ZHU Jian, WANG Ying, ZHANG Xianming, CHEN Wenxing

2022, 30(6):  37-43.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202203068

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In order to study the melt polycondensation of flame retardant copolyesters containing phosphorus linked pendant groups, the flame retardant containing phosphorus linked pendant groups was successfully introduced into the polyester molecular chain by direct esterification method. The experiment for copolyesters containing phosphorus linked pendant groups (PET-D_x) was carried out for melt polycondensation, and the influence of different reaction factors (temperature, time and the amount of flame retardant additive) on the polycondensation reaction was analyzed. The results showed that the intrinsic viscosity of PET-D_x gradually increases with the increase of temperatures, while the intrinsic viscosity of copolyester decreases slightly later in the reaction. The steric resistance effect generated by the benzene ring structure in the flame retardant monomer has a certain inhibitory effect on melt polycondensation, and at 270 ℃, PET-D₃ with an addition of 3% flame retardant has the best viscosity enhancement effect, the reaction lasts for 2.5 h, and the intrinsic viscosity can reach 1.23 dL/g. Finally, the reaction kinetics of melt polycondensation was studied according to the change of intrinsic viscosity with reaction time. The results show that the reaction rate constants of the polycondensation reaction increase with the increase of temperature and the decrease of flame retardant content, while the activation energies increase with the increase of flame retardant content.

Agglomeration behavior of ZnO nanoparticles in polyester fiber

LI Shuangxin, QIN Xianan, LÜ Wangyang

2022, 30(6):  44-51.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202202034

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In order to study the agglomeration behavior of nanoparticles in fibers, a method to analyze the agglomeration behavior of nanoparticles in polyester fibers by X-ray three-dimensional microscopy (CT) was proposed. ZnO/PET composite fibers were prepared with the PET masterbatch containing nano-ZnO and the PET blank chips as raw materials by adopting the method of melt spinning after the twin-screw extruder was used for blending. In addition, the PET masterbatch containing nano-ZnO was dissolved with hexafluoroisopropanol, and the obtained ZnO was imaged by scanning electron microscope and transmission electron microscope, and it was found that the size of ZnO particles was mainly below 300 nm. Therefore, the particles larger than 300 nm obtained in CT imaging of ZnO/PET composite fibers can be considered to be caused by the agglomeration of ZnO. Using the data obtained by CT, a frequency histogram of the size of ZnO particles larger than 300 nm was plotted, and the results showed that the agglomeration of ZnO particles in the fibers intensified with the increase of ZnO particle addition.

Preparation and performance of polyacrylonitrile antibacterial fibers based on nano copper-zinc oxide composites

FANG Yu, LI Nan, LÜ Wangyang

2022, 30(6):  52-62.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202202033

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The composite antibacterial agent Cu-ZnO NPs with high antibacterial activity was prepared through combining copper nanoparticles (Cu NPs) and zinc oxide nanoparticles (ZnO NPs) by in situ reduction method, and Cu-ZnO/PAN fiber was prepared by centrifugation-electrospinning technology. The microscopic morphology and crystal structure of Cu-ZnO NPs and Cu-ZnO/PAN fibers were characterized by scanning electron microscopy, transmission electron microscopy and X-ray two-dimensional diffractometer. The antibacterial mechanism of Cu-ZnO/PAN fibers was analyzed by inhibition zone test and electron paramagnetic resonance spin trapping techniques. Characterization tests showed that Cu-ZnO NPs and Cu-ZnO/PAN fibers with high antibacterial activity were successfully prepared. The test results of the antibacterial properties and washing resistance of Cu-ZnO/PAN fibers displayed that the antibacterial fibers exhibited high antibacterial activity under dark conditions, and fibers with antimicrobial content of 5% or above had an antibacterial effect of 99% against Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureus) and Escherichia coli (E. coli). Moreover, the antibacterial rates against E. coli and S. aureus could still be at larger than 97%, even if the fibers were washed for 50 times. Thus, the antibacterial fibers have development potential in the antibacterial field.

Preparation and interfacial properties of UHMWPE fibers modified by polyphenol & amino silane

WANG Weihai, CHEN Hong, HUANG Zhichao, YAO Xiangjiang, WU Jindan, QI Dongming

2022, 30(6):  63-72.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202203065

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In order to improve the interfacial shear strength between ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) fiber and epoxy resin, three polyphenols (dopamine, catechol and tannic acid) were used for the surface modification of UHMWPE fiber, and then 3-(aminopropyl)triethoxysilane (KH550) was grafted with the introduced reactive functional groups. The surface morphology, element composition and crystallinity of the modified fiber were characterized by scanning electron microscopy (SEM), X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS) and X-ray diffraction (XRD). The effects of polyphenol type, silane reaction concentration and reaction time on interfacial shear strength were investigated, and the optimum modification conditions were determined. It was found that the modification process had no significant effect on the crystallinity and mechanical strength of the fiber. The interfacial shear strength between the modified fiber and epoxy resin was improved significantly. The interfacial shear strength between fiber modified by dopamine and amino silane (3%, 3 h) and epoxy resin increased by 134.56%.

Influence of hot pressing process on mechanical properties of bamboo fiber/PLA composites

ZHENG Qianren, SHAO Lingda, JIN Xiaoke, ZHU Chengyan, TIAN Wei

2022, 30(6):  73-79.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202204003

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For optimizing bamboo fiber/PLA composite extrusion molding process parameters, and for further study of the influence of process parameters with significant influence on the effect of compound material mechanics performance, we designed an L₉ (3³) orthogonal experiment, analyzed the influence factors of hot pressing molding temperature, pressure and time, and tested the tensile properties, bending properties and morphology features with the universal strength meter and scanning electron microscopy. The results show that as for the bamboo fiber/PLA composite materials, pressure has the greatest influence on the tensile and bending strength, followed by temperature, with time having the minimum effect. Among them, pressure has a significant influence on the tensile strength of the composites. When the process parameters of hot pressing were 180 ℃, 2 MPa, and 30 min, the bamboo fiber was well combined with PLA, and the tensile and bending strength of the composite reached the maximum value, being 61.43 MPa and 65.47 MPa, respectively.

Textile Engineering

Continuous preparationand properties of nanofiber core-spun yarn based on water bath electrospinning

ZHOU Xinru, HU Chengye, FAN Mengjing, HONG Jianhan, HAN Xiao

2022, 30(6):  80-87.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202204028

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In order to prepare nanofiber aggregates that not only have the surface properties of nanofibers, but also maintain the excellent mechanical properties of traditional fibers, and to further expand the application field of nanofibers and improve the application value, a continuous preparation method of nanofiber core-spun yarn was proposed. PET/PA6 nanofiber core-spun yarn with polyester filament (PET) as core layer and nylon 6 nanofiber (PA6) as coating layer was prepared by double needle water bath electrospinning method. The effect of spinning voltage on the structure and properties of nanofiber core-spun yarn was studied. The results show that the nanofibers prepared at different voltages have a good coating effect on the core yarn. The diameter of the nanofiber decreases with the increase of the voltage. The diameter of the nanofiber is 140.80±21.34 nm at 14 kV and 91.75±13.24 nm at 20 kV, which decreases by about 1/3. With the increase of the voltage, the coating rate and linear density of the nanofiber core-spun yarn increase. When the voltage is 20 kV, the coating rate of the nanofiber core-spun yarn is 28.58%, which is about 1.5 times of the coating rate when the voltage is 14 kV. The breaking strength of the PA6 nanofiber coating is lower than that of conventional PA6 fiber, but the breaking elongation is close to that of conventional PA6 fiber.

Mechanical properties of continuous alumina yarns and fabrics

XIE Zhiyun, LI Wenbin, ZHANG He, HUANG Cong, GUAN Sijia, LIU Yang

2022, 30(6):  88-94.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202204012

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In order to study the mechanical properties of the foreign and domestic alumina yarns and fabrics at room temperature and high temperature, three types of continuous alumina yarns and their fabrics from the United States(MG), Japan(RB) and China(GC) were subjected to the tensile loading before and after high temperature treatments. Besides, the GC alumina-imitated MG and RB alumina fabrics with the identical structures were also conducted with the corresponding tensile performance tests. The results show that the breaking strength of MG, GC, and RB alumina yarns are 33.4, 36.5, and 41.9 cN/tex, respectively. After 4 hours of high temperature treatment at 950 ℃, the retention rate of GC alumina yarn breaking strength is 76.0%, and the retention rate of breaking strain is 32.7%, which are the highest among the three yarns. The tensile breaking strengths of the MG and RB alumina fabrics are 1060.9 and 864.0 N/cm, respectively while the breaking strengths of the GC alumina-imitated MG and RB fabrics can reach 875.3 and 653.3 N/cm. After high temperature treatment, the imitated RB fabric has the highest breaking strength retention rate of 76.3%. And the maximum breaking strain retention rate of the alumina fabric is significantly higher than that of alumina yarns.

Development of the bio-based polyamide 56 Sirofil yarn and its performance

ZHUO hui, LIU Xinjin

2022, 30(6):  95-101.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202205039

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With the combed cotton and bio-based polyamide 56 blended roving as the raw material for the fiber package and N56 filament as the core wire, nine types of 18 tex 70/30 JC/N56/N56 filament(5 tex) Sirofil yarns with the different spaces between roving and filamentand different twists were spun on QFA1528 ring spinning machine installed with a complete condensing spun device, with the roving blending ratio being 70∶30. This paper discussed how the breaking strength, initial modulus, evenness CV and hairiness H of the nine types of Sirofil yarns changed when the distance between the roving and filament and the twists of spinning frame were changed.The results show that when the space between roving and filament is 8 mm and the twist is set at 120.34 twist/10 cm,the yarn strength,evenness and hairiness are optimal.

Local weave restoration and automatic density measurement for fabrics

WEI Qiuju, SUN Xiaowan, XU Pinghua, XU Minghui, JIA Jing

2022, 30(6):  102-109.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202201021

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In order to improve the accuracy for detecting the density of the printed woven fabric, image repainting technology was utilized to repair textile local texture by filtering surface patterns. To verify the effects of pattern types and sizes on restoration under different organizational structures, 27 test samples were designed by pattern fusion according to the weave, pattern types and sizes. An optimized Criminisi algorithm was proposed. The priority item was redesigned, and the size of the repair module underwent self-adaptive adjustment according to the pattern size. In the experiment, the restoration effects by means of Criminisi algorithm, optimizing priority item only, and optimizing both priority and module items were compared and analyzed. Besides, the densities detected by manual method and by the algorithm in the paper were compared and analyzed. The result shows that the proposed method can effectively repair the fabric structure texture in the area of patterns, and the mean subjective and objective consistency is 99.89% for test specimens. This proposed method can reduce the interference of small printed patterns, which can be helpful to expand the application scope of image automatic inspection for fabric density.

Analysis of related influencing factors of cool feeling of knitted cool fabric

CHU Beidou, LIN Ling, GU Xuefeng, CHEN Weilai

2022, 30(6):  110-116.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202112005

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In order to study the relationship between the properties and influencing factors of knitted cool fabric, knitted fabrics with cool feeling are knitted with weft plain stitch and pique stitch using polyester fiber with excellent cooling. Next, the surface density, air permeability, thermal resistance, moisture permeability, CLO value, thermal conductivity,and the contact cool feeling coefficient of the cool feeling knitted fabrics are tested. The results show that the greater the contact cool feeling coefficient, the better the cool feeling. Then, a linear correlation analysis is carried out on the thermal and moisture performance parameters of the cool feeling knitted fabric and contact cool feeling coefficient. Finally, a multiple linear model on the contact cool feeling coefficient is established to optimize the cooling performance of cool fabrics by changing the weight of different influencing factors.

Competitiveness and complementarity of textile and apparel trade between China and RCEP partner countries

XU Ling, LIU Daolin, YIN Liantian

2022, 30(6):  117-126.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202204058

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Textile and apparel industry is one of the most profitable industries in China after RCEP takes effect. To optimize the textile and apparel trade structure between China and RCEP partner countries is the top priority of the development of this industry. Based on the textile and apparel trade data of RCEP member countries from 2010 to 2020, this paper discusses the competitiveness and complementarity of China's textile and apparel trade with RCEP partner countries from the overall and multi-field dimensions. The research results show that: China and ASEAN countries are highly competitive in textiles and apparel. China still has obvious competitive advantages in most fields of the industry against the epidemic. The competition pattern of textile and apparel trade among RCEP member countries has not fundamentally changed; the export complementarity of the textile and garment trade is greater than the import complementarity, and the export fields with high complementarity are mainly silk, chemical fiber filament fiber, chemical fiber staple fiber, non-woven fabrics, special woven fabrics, industrial textiles, knitted fabrics and textile products. etc; China has close textile and apparel trade relations with RCEP partner countries, and RCEP partner countries are more dependent on China.

Dyeing and Finishing & Chemical Engineering

Slurry screening suitable for medium temperature sizing and the sizing performance

WU Juming, GAO Bo, ZHU Bo, GAO Weidong

2022, 30(6):  127-132.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202205023

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Reducing the sizing temperature is an important way to save energy for sizing. In order to screen out the main starch sizing suitable for medium temperature sizing, the sizing and sizing film properties of phosphate starch, acetate starch and oxidized starch were studied in this paper. And through the sizing test under different sizing temperature, the sizing performance of each sizing temperature was analyzed and compared, and finally the appropriate medium-temperature sizing temperature was obtained by the objective function method. The results show that the sizing viscosity of the acetate starch has better stability with temperature and holding time, higher specific adhesion, the best sizing film properties, and the sizing properties at medium temperature are close to those of high temperature sizing. Therefore, it is considered feasible to use 75 °C sizing of acetate starch.

Synthesis and luminescent properties of sulfonated tetraphenylethylene fluorescent dyes

XIE Chenzhuo, SHAO Xiaoli, ZHAO Qiangqiang, HE Jinxin

2022, 30(6):  133-140.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202205052

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In order to develop the new fluorescent dyes that can be applied to protein fibers, tetrasulfonated tetraphenylethylene(TPE-4S) and monosulfonated tetraphenylene(TPE-1S) fluorescent dyes with aggregation-induced emission(AIE) are synthesized from tetraphenylethylene (TPE) using concentrated sulfuric acid and chlorosulfonic acid as sulfonation reagents. Besides, the AIE was investigated, and the dyeing properties on protein fibers were also studied, while the luminescence properties of fluorescent dyes on fibers were analyzed. The results show that TPE-4S and TPE-1S have aggregation-induced emission effect. In addition, the two fluorescent dyes can dye protein fibers similar to acid dyes. The number of sulfonic acid groups affects the maximum dyeing uptake on the fibers, and the maximum dye uptake of TPE-4S on wool can reach 7.0%. Due to the ionic bond between the dye molecules and the amino groups on the fiber, the sulfonated tetrastyrene molecules on the dyed fibers have luminescent properties. Compared with ordinary fluorescent dyes, TPE-4S has fluorescence quenching when the dye uptake is 5.0%, but TPE-1S still does not have fluorescence quenching when the dye uptake is 6.0%, which provides fluorescent dyes with aggregation-induced emission effect can effectively overcome the problem of fluorescence quenching of luminescent materials.

Dyeing properties of beet pigment derivatives synthesized by resin solid phase reaction on wool

GUO Xiaoman, JIA Lixia, LIU Dongzhi

2022, 30(6):  141-149.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202205001

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In order to explore the synthesis method and application performance of beet pigment derivatives, the intermediate "a" and the beet pigment derivative(pigment A) were synthesized by solid phase and replacement reaction using crude natural beet pigment, VPOC1065 anion exchange resin and indoline as raw materials. The reaction conditions of synthetic pigment A and dyeing process of wool were optimized, and the fastnesses of dyed fabrics treated with pre-medium of potassium aluminum sulfate were measured. The results show that the optimal process conditions for the synthesis of pigment A are that the mass ratio of indoline to intermediate a is 3:8, the reaction time is 25 min, and the yield is 50.13% and that the dyeing pH value is 3.0, dyeing temperature is 50 °C, dyeing time is 110 min, and dye mass fraction is 5%(o.w.f). Synthetic pigment A has good K/S value, and the fastness to soaping,color fastness to rubbing as well as colour fasteness to sunlightall surpass level 3.

Hydrolysis properties of reactive dyes in liquid paraffin non-aqueous medium system

LI Meiqi, SHAO Min, AN Yuan, WANG Lijun, SHAO Jianzhong

2022, 30(6):  150-156.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202204017

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In order to study the hydrolysis properties and related dyeing properties of reactive dyes in the liquid paraffin (LP) non-aqueous medium system, two reactive dyes with single-reactive group, C.I. Reactive Red 24 (Monochlorotriazine type) and C.I. Reactive Blue 19 (Vinyl sulfone type) were selected, then the hydrolysis properties of the reactive dyes in the LP/micro-water system (without fibers) and LP/micro-water dyeing system (with fibers) were studied using the high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analysis method, and the LP/micro-water system was compared with the non-aqueous medium system of decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5) and the conventional water bath system. Also, the effects of temperature and pH on the hydrolysis performance of reactive dyes were investigated. The results showed that, under the same pH and temperature conditions, the hydrolysis rate of reactive dyes in the LP non-aqueous medium system was equivalent to that in D5 non-aqueous medium system, and was significantly lower than that in the water bath system. The hydrolysis rate of C.I. Reactive Red 24 was 42%~65% (pH=10~11, 70~90 ℃), and that of C.I. Reactive Blue 19 was 15%~32% (pH=10~11, 60~80 ℃) in conventional water bath dyeing system, while the hydrolysis rates of the two dyes in the LP non-aqueous medium dyeing system were both lower than 2.22%, and the dye uptake was dominant (up to 97% on cotton), so that the effect of pH and temperature on the hydrolysis rate of dyes was very small accordingly (within a specific range). Therefore, the dyeing of reactive dyes in LP non-aqueous medium dyeing system can be regulated at lower temperature and pH value to save energy and reduce consumption, which is beneficial to the sustainable development of textile dyeing and finishing.

Fabrication of superhydrophobic cosmetic cotton pads by vapour phase deposition method and its oil-water separation

QIU Xinni, GUO Yunqi, ZHANG Nantao, WANG Xin, SHI Jiawei, OU Jiayu, LI Yong, YU Chuanming

2022, 30(6):  157-165.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202204027

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The superhydrophobic and oleophilic cosmetic cotton pads were prepared via vapour phase deposition method by using methyltrimethoxysilane as the modifier. The microscopic morphology and chemical structure of modified cotton pads were characterised by SEM and FT-IR, and the oil-water separation performance of the cotton pads was investigated. The results indicated that the hydrolytic modifier and the hydroxyl group in the polymer chain of the cosmetic cotton pads underwent a dehydration reaction, which resulted in the hydrophobic modification of the cotton pads. The water contact angle of the modified cotton pads was 151° and the oil contact angle was 0°, with good hydrophobic and oleophilic properties. The modified cotton pads can selectively adsorb oil in water with high oil-water separation efficiency, the separation flux is 22918 L/(h·m²), and the separation efficiency is still higher than 95.3% after 10 times of repeated use. The oil-water separation of emulsions can be effectively achieved under gravity drive. The modified cotton pads exhibit good anti-fouling effect on common domestic sewage, acid or alkali aqueous solutions, and show good self-cleaning performance, thus having broad application prospects in the field of oil-water separation.

Apparel Engineering

Development and application of VR/AR technology in the apparel industry

FANG Chaoyi, HE Jiazhen

2022, 30(6):  166-175.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202202009

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To further promote the digital development of the clothing industry and broaden the application of virtual reality (VR) and augmented reality (AR) technologies in the apparel industry, this paper introduces the specific technologies involved in VR/AR and their development trajectories and summarizes the main applications of VR/AR technology. With a focus on the entire chain of apparel industry, VR/AR technology is used to assist fabric design, clothing style and structure design during the design stage; this technology can be applied to simulate the actual usage scenario of the clothing and evaluate the thermal comfort in a virtual scene during the performance evaluation stage; the technology can be used to enhance the visual experience of virtual catwalk show and virtual fitting during the marketing planning stage. Finally, this paper summarizes and looks forward to VR/AR technology from the aspects of hardware and software, and points out that algorithm upgrade and application ecological construction are the future development directions.

Color analysis of digitally spray-printed gambiered Canton gauze cheongsam based on color network

CHEN Xiya, ZHAO Songling, GU Bingfei

2022, 30(6):  176-185.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202204008

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In order to better inherit and carry forward the gambiered Canton gauze culture, clarify the main color characteristics and color matching rules of the current digital printing gambiered Canton gauze cheongsam, and provide certain color matching reference for designers, 205 pictures of digitally spray-printed gambiered Canton gauze cheongsam were taken as research objects, and color extraction and color matching analysis were carried out by computer technology. In the aspect of color extraction, noise elimination and texture smoothing were performed on the image and the main colors and secondary colors of a single cheongsam picture were extracted based on HSV color space by using octree quantization algorithm. Then, 20 overall representative colors, 10 main colors and 20 secondary colors of the overall picture library were obtained by clustering algorithm. In the aspect of color matching, 86 color matching rules between 10 main colors and secondary colors and 66 color matching rules between secondary colors were obtained by Apriori association rule algorithm. And the corresponding color matching network diagram was drawn. The analysis results show gambiered Canton gauze cheongsams mainly use red-yellow colors with medium-low brightness and medium-low saturation, and the color matching of similar colors makes the overall presentation effect more stable and elegant. The results of the study can provide theoretical support for the diversified design of related product patterns or overall matching.

Online display of apparel fabric and its impact on consumers' visual perception

DONG Jianing, YANG Yunchu, JI Xiaofen, CAI Liling

2022, 30(6):  186-193.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202201017

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In order to help consumers perceive the properties of clothing fabrics and reduce their perception risk of product quality, this paper, combined with online survey results, transformed the physical properties of the fabrics from professional test evaluations into visual subjective evaluations. Dividing the experimental subjects into two groups: the fabric plane display group and property display group, this paper calculated the correct rates and scores of the two groups based on subjective judgments by combing the perceptual judgment with questionnaire evaluation and analyzed the visual perception differences between the two groups by using the signed rank test. At the same time, one-way ANOVA was adopted to explore the visual perception differences of fabrics between different genders. The results show that the display of fabric properties optimizes consumers' visual perception, the average perception accuracy of consumers is improved by 24.53%, and the average score is increased by 0.94 points; males and females have significant differences in perception of fabric properties, with the later being more sensitive to fabric perception.

Scale development and validation of clothing brand sustainability

HE Jingyu, CHEN Lihong, HE Lin

2022, 30(6):  194-203.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202204056

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In order to better carry out the research on clothing brand sustainability, the clothing brand sustainability measurement scale is developed. Based on literature research and case study, this paper defines the concept, structural dimensions and corresponding measurement indexes of clothing brand sustainability. Through the statistical analysis of the survey data, the reliability and validity of the scale were tested. The scale validity was tested by taking consumers' green purchase intention as the outcome variable. Finally, a scale of 12 measurement items including social sustainability, environmental sustainability and economic sustainability was determined. The results show that the overall structure of the scale is good and the reliability and validity pass the test. The forecasting effect of each dimension of clothing brand sustainability on consumers' green purchase intention and the practical application of the scale are verified. The research results provide an effective measurement tool for apparel brand sustainability and a reference for apparel enterprises to improve brand sustainability.

Carbon footprint calculation and assessment of jeans products based on process modularity

LUO Yan, ZHOU Rongxing, LI Xinmiao, ZHU Lisha, WANG Laili, WU Xiongying, DING Xuemei

2022, 30(6):  204-210.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202206030

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In order to solve the problems of large workload in evaluating the carbon footprint of textile and apparel products at the industrial production stageand the difficulty in achieving the refinement of accounting by traditional methods,a carbon footprint accounting method based on the modularity theory was adopted to calculate and evaluate the industrial carbon footprints of three jeans products (men's, women's and children's jeans), with process-level carbon footprint units (modules) being reused and assembled to enable rapid and accurate calculation of the product's carbon footprint. The results showed that the carbon footprints of men's, women's and children's jeans from spinning to garment manufacturing were 7.30 kg CO₂e/piece, 7.24 kg CO₂e/piece and 4.16 kg CO₂e/piece, respectively. The sewing process (in the garment manufacturing workshop) of men's and women's jeans, and the dyeing and sizing process (in the weaving workshop) of children's jeans were identified as having the largest carbon footprints, with decorative labels and steam consumption contributing the most to the carbon footprints of the above two processes, which can be reduced by optimizing the design of decorative labels, choosing greener raw materials and adopting new dyeing techniques. In addition, electricity was the most significant source of carbon emissions in the production of products. It is recommended to use clean electricity instead of traditional thermal power.

Comprehensive Review

Research progress of hyperspectral imaging technology in textile testing

LIANG Huifang, ZHANG Huifang, CONG Mingfang, CHEN Zetan, SUN Chong

2022, 30(6):  211-218.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202203026

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Hyperspectral imaging technology, as an advanced technique integrating two-dimensional imaging and spectral technology, can obtain spatial and spectral information of research objects simultaneously. With the development of the market, higher requirements are put forward for the testing efficiency of textiles and environmental protection of the testing process. It is necessary to adopt new technologies to develop new testing methods. This paper introduces the principles, equipment, image acquisition and processing methods of the hyperspectral imaging technology. The research results of hyperspectral imaging technology in textile testing fields such as cotton impurity detection, textile component analysis and textile color measurement are summarized. Combined with the research status, the application direction and research ideas of hyperspectral imaging technology in textile inspection were put forward.

Development and application of textile-based electromagnetic shielding materials

SU Jing, LAN Chuntao, WANG Jing, GUAN Yu, FU Shaohai

2022, 30(6):  219-230.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202204002

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With the rapid development of electronic information technology, electromagnetic radiation pollution is a danger to people's health and production activities continuously. Textile-based electromagnetic shielding materials are lightweight, soft, bendable and easy to process and shape, and have great potential for applications in civil apparel, aerospace, military stealth or other fields. Based on the basic concept and mechanism of electromagnetic shielding as well as the latest research progress of textile-based electromagnetic shielding materials. This paper introduces the development methods of textile electromagnetic shielding materials, expounds the electromagnetic shielding characteristics in different stages, and looks forward to the development of textile-based electromagnetic shielding materials in the future.

Research progress of silica-based nanofiber aerogels

WEI Zhiyi, WANG Hui, YU Tianpei, CHENG Hui, MA Xin, LI Shouzhu

2022, 30(6):  231-241.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202204046

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The traditional silica aerogels are three-dimensional porous materials with ultra-light, low thermal conductivity, high porosity and high specific surface area. Due to its poor mechanical properties, the practical application has been seriously restricted. To solve this problem, flexible silica nanofibers were introduced into aerogels as skeleton materials, which showed good shape memory function and mechanical stability on the basis of retaining the excellent performance of traditional silica aerogels. In this paper, the development of silica-based nanofiber aerogels was traced, the preparation method and related mechanism were introduced, and the current efforts and improvements made to break through the limitation of poor mechanical properties were summarized, so as to better apply silica-based nanofiber aerogelsto the fields of air filtration, oil-water separation, catalyst carrier, adsorption, heat insulation and pressure sensing. It is expected to promote the further development of silica-based nanofiber aerogels.

Preparation and research progress of functional polymer embolic microspheres

LI Pengfei, WANG Jiannan, XU Jianmei

2022, 30(6):  242-251.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202204061

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With the rapid development of chemoembolization, an interventional therapy technology, multi-function has become a major feature of new polymer embolic microspheres with high efficiency and accurate targeting to meet the needs of different treatment methods of various tumors. This paper covers four functional categories: the biodegradable type, the environmentally responsive type, the radiopaque type and the radioactive type, and introduces the preparation methods and degradability evaluation of embolic microspheres of proteins, polysaccharides and synthetic polymers. The modification methods, environmental response mechanism and effects of pH responsive, temperature responsive, light, magnetic and microwave responsive hyperthermia embolic microsphere are reviewed. The autoradiography methods and evaluation of CT imaging visualization, MRI visualizationand CT/MRI dual-mode imaging visualizatio nembolic microspheres, as well as the labeling methods and radioactive effects of new radioactive embolic microspheres are also summarized. Finally, it is pointed out that degradable and environmentally responsive embolic microspheres are not good in morphology, size and drug release due to single material and response factor, while long-term observation and experiments in safety and effectiveness are still needed for radiopaque and radioactive embolic microspheres due to the side effects and complex mechanism of modifiers, indicating that multiresponsive and multifunctional embolic microspheres are the direction in future studies.

Research progress on orientation construction of fillerin functional composites

CUI Zhonglan, SONG Lixiang, YAN Xiaofei, ZHU Chenkai, QI Dongming, LI Yaobang, YANG Xiaoming

2022, 30(6):  252-260.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202203046

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Incorporating functional fillers into polymerization systems is an extensive strategy for synthesizing high-performance functional composites. However, it is hard to realize the orderly distribution and orientation arrangement of functional fillers in the polymerization system under the natural state. Therefore, it is difficult to play the effective value of functional fillers. Applying the external field to induce the orientation of functional fillers is a simple and effective means to solve this issue. In the first place, this paper reviewed the different orientation construction methods. Afterwards, we compared the advantages and disadvantages of the above methods. Moreover, we discussed the application and development status of filler orientation functional composites. Finally, the orientation construction for functional fillers in composites was forecast to advance the further development of filler orientation functional composites.