现代纺织技术 ›› 2023, Vol. 31 ›› Issue (6): 117-129.

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基于四基色的全色域混色模型构建及彩色纱纺制

  

  1. 1.江南大学纺织科学与工程学院,江苏无锡 214122;2.新雅纺织股份有限公司,合肥 253000
  • 出版日期:2023-11-10 网络出版日期:2023-11-16
  • 通讯作者:薛元,E-mail:fzxueyuan@qq.com
  • 作者简介:李娟娟(1999—),女,安徽合肥人,硕士研究生,主要从事数字化纺纱方面的研究。
  • 基金资助:
    浙江省2022年度“尖兵”“领雁”研发攻关计划项目(2022C01188);江苏高校优势学科建设工程资助项目(苏政办发[2014]37号)

Construction of a full color gamut mixing model based on four primary colors and color yarn spinning

  1. 1. College of Textile Science and Engineering, Jiangnan University, Wuxi 214122, China; 2. Xinya New Material Co., Ltd., Hefei 253000, China
  • Published:2023-11-10 Online:2023-11-16

摘要: 为了解决色纺纱产品研发与生产中的颜色模型构建等关键共性技术,基于四基色纤维以12.5%的离散梯度网格化混配构建全色域混色模型;结合构建的全色域混色模型和三通道数控纺纱技术,阐述了“多通道牵伸比-色纤维混合比-成型纱线颜色值”的三要素调控机理,提出了调控成形纱线色相、明度及彩度的工艺方法,设计了纺制全色域混色纱的工艺;利用三通道数码纺纱机纺制了等明度不同色相、等色相不同明度、等色相不同彩度的三个系列的彩色纱,并对纱线的条干、毛羽及力学性能进行了测试,将测试数据与本色纱性能指标进行对比分析。结果表明:本文提出的基于全色域混色色谱纺制全色域彩色纱线的工艺具有可行性,纺制的彩色纱各项性能指标均可达到本色纱的一等品要求。

关键词: 混色纱, 四基色, 网格化混色, 全色域混色模型, 性能指标

Abstract: Color spinning yarn, as a kind of yarn formed by opening, carding, drawing, roving and spinning process of various colored fibers, has a production history of over 30 years in China. At present, the domestic color spinning yarn has more than 10 million spindles. With the progress of new spinning technologies and the gradual accumulation of production experience, the quality level and technological content of color spinning yarn are also gradually improved. Color spinning technology is a technique of spinning two or more colored fibers into a certain hue, lightness, and saturation according to a certain mixing ratio. The color spinning technology using fiber dyeing before spinning process not only greatly reduces pollution in the production process, which is in line with the green and environmental protection production concept, but also each fiber is dyed separately, reducing problems such as staining that may occur in the subsequent process. Nevertheless, as the yarn color cannot be intelligently controlled at the spinning stage, and its actual product application has great limitations, how to achieve innovation in color spinning technology and products has become a challenge for the color spinning industry.
To achieve key technologies such as precise control of yarn color during the development and production of color spinning yarn products, we, based on the double coupling color mixing model, constructed a full color gamut color mixing model by using a 12.5% discrete gradient grid based on four primary colors, constructed the three-element regulation mechanism of “three-channel draft ratio, color fiber mixing ratio, and yarn color value” based on three-channel digital spinning combined with the full color gamut color mixing model and digital three-channel spinning technology, proposed the process method for regulating the hue, lightness, and saturation of formed yarns, selected a number of grid points in the full color gamut blending chromatography and designed the spinning process for full color gamut blended yarns. To achieve online regulation of the blending ratio of colored fibers in the blended yarn by using a multi-channel digital ring spinning machine for three different color roving asynchronous drafting, gradient color matching, and convergence twisting, we spun three series of colored yarns with different hues of equal lightness, different lightnesses of equal hue, and different saturations of equal hue, and tested the evenness, hairiness, and strength of the colored yarn. The test data were compared and analyzed with the performance indicators of the natural color yarn. The results show that the combination of the full color gamut blending model and digital three-channel spinning technology can spin three series of color yarns of equal saturation and different hues, equal hue and different lightnesses,  equal hue and different saturations. Under the same color fiber mixing ratio, the actual spun color yarn is basically consistent with the color comparison in the full color gamut model. The various performance indicators of the actual spun color yarn can meet the first-class requirements of ordinary natural color yarn, proving the feasibility of spinning colored yarn based on the full color gamut mixing model and three-channel digital spinning technology further.
Nowadays, people's requirements for textiles are no longer limited to comfort and durability. Textile products with unique styles and appearance effects are increasingly favored by consumers. As a diverse form of fancy yarn, blended yarn has been a hot spot of many scholars. On the one hand, color is an important appearance indicator, and the construction of full color gamut chromatography further expands the production range of blended yarn. On the other hand, different styles of fancy yarns can also be developed by integrating other spinning technologies, combining different raw materials and optimizing the process, and promoting the development of textiles in the direction of diversification of raw materials, color enrichment and more optimal production.

Key words: blended yarn, four primary colors, gridded blending, full gamut color mixing model, performance indicators

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