现代纺织技术 ›› 2025, Vol. 33 ›› Issue (01): 21-29.

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雪尼尔纱形态结构时序化调控机理及其纺制

  

  1. 1.江南大学纺织科学与工程学院,江苏无锡  214122; 2.金华洁灵家居用品有限公司,浙江金华  321037
  • 出版日期:2025-01-10 网络出版日期:2025-02-18

Time-sequential regulation mechanism for the morphology and structure of chenille yarns and their spinning production

  1. 1. College of Textile Science and Engineering, Jiangnan University, Wuxi 214122, China; 
    2. Jinhua Jieling Housewares Co., Ltd., Jinhua 321037, China
  • Published:2025-01-10 Online:2025-02-18

摘要: 针对传统雪尼尔纺纱对纱线的形态、结构及色彩调控的局限性,构建了一个六轴联控的多自由度雪尼尔纺纱系统,增设了饰纱输出罗拉,实现对雪尼尔纺纱机饰纱回转头、饰纱喂入装置、芯纱输出装置、隔距片升降装置、锭子、钢领板升降装置等成纱部件独立驱动,并提出了雪尼尔纱结构参数的影响因素及调控机理;通过对线密度恒定或变化、饰纱长度恒定或变化、饰纱排列密度恒定或变化、捻度恒定或变化的雪尼尔纱进行时序化模型构建,设计了5大类具有不同结构参数时序化分布的雪尼尔纱;基于形态结构时序变化的雪尼尔纱模型,纺制了3种具有特殊外观形态和结构的雪尼尔纱。纺纱实验结果表明:基于六轴联控的雪尼尔纺纱系统运行良好,可实现柔性纺纱。文章研究结果可扩展雪尼尔纱产品的应用领域,提升雪尼尔纱服饰产品的核心竞争力。

关键词: 雪尼尔纱, 纺纱系统, 结构参数, 时序化调控机理, 工艺设计

Abstract: In the traditional single-motor-driven spinning mode, the appearance, structure and color of chenille yarns have great limitations. Through the six-axis linkage control of the multi-degree-of-freedom chenille spinning system, the limitations of traditional craftsmanship can be overcome, allowing for time-sequential regulation of single or multiple structural parameters of chenille yarns. Thus, special chenille yarns with temporally changing morphologies and structures can be spun, and the goal of expanding the application field of chenille yarn products can be achieved, so that the core competitiveness of chenille yarn clothing products can be enhanced.
Based on the six-axis linkage control chenille spinning system, upgrades and modifications were made to the original chenille spinning mechanical system, drive system, and control system, and independent pile yarn output rollers were added, so that the pile yarn and the core yarn could be outputted according to different laws. Simultaneously, through the independent drive of six motors, various components of the chenille spinning machine, such as the rotating head, pile yarn feeding device, core yarn output device, spacer lifting device, spindle and ring frame lifting device could be independently driven. This enables effective adjustment of structural parameters such as linear density, diameter, pile yarn arrangement density and twist of the chenille yarn, ultimately realizing precise control over the molding form and structural changes of chenille yarns in a time-sequential manner.
In addition, based on the chenille yarn spinning platform, the classification of chenille yarns was proposed, and the digital regulation mechanism of structural parameters such as chenille yarns' linear density, diameter, pile arrangement, and twist was analyzed. Based on the digital regulation mechanism of chenille yarns, a digital characterization method of chenille yarns with the temporal variation of morphological structural parameters was proposed, and five primary types of chenille yarns were designed, each exhibiting distinct temporal variations in the morphological and structural parameters. Then, based on the pre-designed chenille yarn structure parameters and the five major types of chenille yarns with different time-sequential distribution laws of morphological and structural parameters, chenille yarns with special morphology and structure, including bubble chenille yarns, chrysanthemum chenille yarns, and big-belly chenille yarns, were designed and spun. The results show that the chenille spinning system based on six-axis linkage control operates well and can realize flexible spinning, which helps to promote the development of chenille fancy yarns with diversified styles, forms and colors, and to broaden its application fields.
In summary, the six-axis joint-control multi-degree-of-freedom chenille spinning system, which enables the spinning of chenille yarns with unique morphologies, structures, and color distribution patterns, is applied to the development of woven fabrics, knitted fabrics, tufted fabrics, etc., greatly enriching chenille apparel fabrics and home furnishing products, and bringing a new visual and tactile style, along with a fresh wearing experience, to chenille textiles.

Key words: chenille yarn, spinning system, structure parameters, time-sequential control mechanism, technological design

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