关键词: 混纺比, 涤棉面料, 导湿排汗, 电阻测试, 滴液法, 夏季服装

Abstract: The most important factors affecting the moisture diffusion and perspiration performance of blended yarns or fabrics are the types of fibers and the blending ratio. In this paper, the resistance method was adopted to test the moisture diffusion and perspiration performance of summer polyester/cotton blended woven fabrics with different composition ratios. At the same time, the moisture diffusion rate and moisture permeability of the fabric were tested by dynamic moisture management tester and fabric moisture permeability meter, differences in moisture diffusion and perspiration performance of fabrics with different parameters were analyzed, and the performance variation law was obtained.
The test objects were ten polyester/cotton plain woven fabrics with different blend ratios. Some metal probes were inserted into the fabric sample as a resistance sensor. A precise volume of 0.2ml of simulated human sweat was measured by using an adjustable pipette and injected into the fabric through a dispensing tube. The data acquisition card was used to monitor the changes in resistance values between the probes after the simulated sweat diffused on the surface and inside the fabric. If the resistance value decreased from the order of GΩ to MΩ, the sweat had transferred to the probe position; if the resistance between the probes increased from the order of MΩ to GΩ, it indicated that the sweat had evaporated. The probes were distributed in the warp, weft, 30°, 45°, and 60° directions of the fabric. By detecting the resistance changes between these probes, the diffusion and evaporation properties of simulated sweat along different directions of the fabric could be obtained. A dynamic moisture management tester was used to test the moisture diffusion velocity of each fabric, and the drop diffusion time was compared with that of the resistance method. The fabric permeability meter was used to test the moisture permeability of the fabric, and the comfort performance of the fabric was evaluated comprehensively.
The conclusions are as follows: when the warp and weft yarns of the fabric are made of the same material, the tightness ratio between the warp and weft significantly affects the differences in moisture diffusion property in various directions. As the tightness ratio increases, the differences in sweat diffusion performance along various directions of the fabric also increase, showing a linear relationship; the fiber blending ratio, fabric tightness, and thickness of polyester/cotton blended fabrics have a significant impact on their moisture diffusion and perspiration performance. Due to the strong moisture absorption capability of cotton fibers but relatively weak water transport capability, as the proportion of cotton fibers in the blended fabric increases, the moisture diffusion and evaporation performance deteriorate, leading to longer diffusion and evaporation time for sweat along the fabric. Both the moisture diffusion and perspiration performance of the fabric worsen, and the fabric thickness and tightness also greatly affect its moisture diffusion and perspiration performance; as the cotton fiber content in polyester/cotton blended fabric increases, the moisture permeability of the fabric gradually improves. When the cotton fiber content in polyester/cotton blended fabric exceeds 50%, the moisture diffusion and perspiration performance lead to significant declines. Therefore, to ensure that the fabric has better moisture diffusion and perspiration performance, the cotton fiber content needs to be controlled below 50%. The results of this study can provide reference for the development of polyester/cotton fabrics, and also provide a basis for the selection and use of comfortable summer clothing.

Key words: blending ratio, polyester/cotton fabric, moisture diffusion and perspiration, resistance method, dropping method, summer clothing