关键词: 植物染料, 涤纶织物, 无机性有机性平衡值, 染色, 色牢度

Abstract: With people's pursuit of healthy lifestyle and the popularity of intangible cultural heritage, fabrics dyed with natural dyes are not only in line with the concept of ecological health care, non-toxic and harmless, but also a kind of inheritance and development of traditional culture. As people begin to value the use of natural dyes, the dying of synthetic fibers, which have wide applications in various fields such as textile, apparel and home goods, is particularly important. However, there is currently a lack of theoretical research on the dyeing of synthetic fibers with natural dyes. Therefore, the research on the dyeability of natural dyes on polyester fibers and the development of corresponding dyeing processes and auxiliaries can not only partially reduce the dyeing chemical pollutants of polyester fabrics, but also enrich the color and functionality of fabrics. It lays a theoretical foundation for the research and development of plant dyes and their application on polyester fabrics, and is of great significance to promote the sustainable development of the clothing and decorative fabric industry.
In this paper, based on the theory of inorganic-organic property balance value, the effect of natural pigment IOB value on the dyeability of polyester fabrics was studied. The pigment components of natural dyes rhubarb, polygonum cuspidatum and lithospermum were qualitatively studied by high-erformance liquid chromatography, and the relative mass fraction of the single pigment component was quantitatively analyzed. The IOB values of natural dyes rhubarb, polygonum cuspidatum, lithospermum, natural indigo dye, grape seed dye and carmine dye were calculated and compared with the IOB values of polyester, and the IOB theory was verified by the  K/S value of polyester fabrics. The effect of mordant on K/S value and color fastness of polyester fabrics were studied by using alum and ferrous sulfate mordant and post mordant dyeing process. 
It was found that according to the theory of inorganic-organic property balance, the IOB values of rhubarb, polygonum cuspidatum, lithospermum and indigo were calculated to be 1.43,1.261,1.236 and 1.168, respectively, which were close to the IOB value of polyester (0.68), and had good dyeing K/S value and color fastness. The IOB values of grape seed and carmine were 1.87 and 2.8, respectively, and the dyeing effect was poor. After further treatment with ferrous sulfate, the K/S value of rhubarb dyed polyester fabric was increased to 1.31, and the light fastness was improved to 3-4 grades. The K/S value of polyester fabric dyed with polygonum cuspidatum was increased to 6.76, and the light fastness was increased to grade 4. The K/S value of the purple grass dyed polyester fabric was increased to 3.97, and the light fastness was increased to 2-3 levels.

Key words: plant dyes, polyester fabrics, inorganic-organic property balance, dyeing performance, color fastness