关键词: 植物染料, 蓝莓色素；纯棉纱布；色牢度；抗紫外；抗氧化

Abstract: In recent years, with the improvement of people's health concept, eco-friendly textiles have been increasingly favored by consumers. Pure cotton gauze stands as a high-grade textile, which is made of natural cotton fiber through spinning and weaving. Pure cotton gauze has the advantages of soft feel, moisture absorption, breathability, skin-friendly and no static electricity. Therefore, it can be used as baby blanket, underwear, bath towel, clothing and bedding. Plant dyes, sourced widely and being green and biodegradable, are extensively used in textile dyeing and printing. Dyeing pure cotton gauze with natural plant dyes can not only minimize the potential harm of dyes to the human body but also enhance the added value, versatility, and eco-friendliness of the material.
To develop high-grade pure cotton gauze dyeing products, this paper focused on natural blueberry pigment dyes and pure cotton gauze as the primary research objects. Firstly, pure cotton gauze was modified by chitosan, cationic quaternary ammonium salt and silane coupling agent KH550. The K/S values of pure cotton gauze under different modification reagents were investigated respectively. Then, the direct dyeing process parameters (pH value, bath ratio, temperature and time) of pure cotton gauze were optimized to obtain a better dyeing process. Finally, to improve the color depth of pure cotton gauze, the effects of mordant (lanthanum chloride, tannic acid and carrageenan) and mordant dyeing methods (pre-mordant dyeing, syn-mordant dyeing and post-mordant dyeing) on the dyeing effect of gauze were studied. At the same time, the color fastness, UV resistance, moisture absorption, thermal conductivity, and oxidation resistance of dyed cotton gauze were tested.
The results show that cationic quaternary ammonium salt-modified cotton gauze can effectively improve the dyeing ability of blueberry pigment, and the dyeing effect is relatively good. The optimal conditions for direct dyeing of pure cotton gauze are: a pH value of 8, temperature at 50°C, duration of 30 minutes, and a bath ratio of 1:40. After mordant dyeing of pure cotton gauze with lanthanum chloride, the color depth value of the gauze increases. After dyeing, the color fastness to rubbing and washing of pure cotton gauze can reach more than grade 3, the moisture absorption and thermal conductivity are reduced, and the UV protection performance and oxidation resistance are improved.
The blueberry is a nutritious blue berry. Its primary components include cellulose, protein, anthocyanins, polyphenols, flavonoids, and other substances. Blueberries are known for their beauty-enhancing properties, ability to protect vision, and anti-aging benefits. Furthermore, they can be used to treat hypertension, hyperglycemia, and regulate intestinal flora. At present, there are few reports on the application of blueberry pigment in textiles. Further research is needed to broaden the application field of blueberry pigment.

Key words: plant dye, blueberry pigment, cotton gauze, color fastness, UV resistance, antioxidation