Abstract: Segment color yarns, with rich color changes, a strong sense of personalization, fashion, and color, three-dimensional and hierarchical effects and strong designability, play an important role in clothing, home textile design and other fields. In recent years, with the improvement of people's demand for personalized, fashionable, diversified and functional yarns and fabrics, the category of segment color yarns has been continuously expanded, and their production methods have become more diverse. There have also been extensive research and reports on yarn color design and control, yarn performance and quality.
At present, there are many production technologies of segment color yarns, which are mainly divided into dyeing method and mixing method. The dyeing method uses the traditional yarn dyeing process to dye different colors of dyes into the same yarn through segmented dyeing, which is more flexible and freer in the control of color distribution. The mixing method is to feed fibers of different colors at different speeds by modifying the mechanism and components at the drawing, roving or spinning points to achieve the effect of mixing fibers of different proportions at different sections of the same yarn sliver. The whole production process is more environmentally friendly.
The segment color yarn has various styles. With its irregular color segment, lively and natural style and strong artistic sense, it can develop textiles with rich and varied colors and patterns. By combining other fancy yarns, such as slub yarn and colored dot yarn, or other spinning technologies, such as Siro spinning technology and core-spun technology, new structured segment color yarns with multiple styles and characteristics can be developed, greatly enriching the product appearance. By selecting and matching different fiber materials such as cotton, wool, silk, hemp and chemical fiber, the excellent characteristics of fibers can be fully combined to develop high-quality segment color yarns to meet the needs of more fabrics. By grasping the principle of color mixing and the law of color change, the yarn can be color matched and the fabric pattern can be designed, so as to develop new and unique color yarns with different styles. Through the combination of functional yarns, the segment color process can be used in the blending of functional fibers to realize the development of functional segment color yarns and further expand the application field of segment color yarns. In order to improve the operational flexibility in the spinning process, digital control, such as three-channel digital ring spinning, can be used to spin segment color yarn. Through the coordinated control of servo drive and PCL, and with the combination of software and hardware, the flexible spinning production can be realized. In addition, in order to predict the forming effect of segment color fabrics, simulation technology can be introduced for simulating, which is convenient for the design and modification of patterns, thus improving production efficiency.
Nowadays, people's requirements for textiles are not limited to comfort and durability. Textiles with unique style and appearance effect are increasingly favored by consumers. Fancy yarns have become a hot topic in new product development. As a kind of fancy yarns with diversified colors and strong designability, the segment color yarn and the fabrics thereof can develop many new different styles through the integration of other spinning technologies, the combination of different raw materials, color matching, the combination of functional yarns and process optimization, which promote the development of textiles towards the diversification of raw materials, the enrichment of color patterns, product functionalization and production optimization, with great development space.

Key words: segment color yarn, dyeing method for segment color yarn, mixed method for segment color yarn, multifunction, digital control, simulation

摘要： 段彩纱个性化与时尚感强,色彩变化丰富,具有强烈的色泽感、立体感和层次感,其可设计性强,在服装、家纺设计等领域应用广泛。文章归纳了段彩纱多样化的生产技术及各技术的优缺点,将目前生产段彩纱的方法分为印染段彩法和混合段彩法两大类;总结了段彩纱广泛的产品种类及其应用,得出通过其他纺纱技术的融入、不同原料的复合、色彩的搭配、功能型等纱线的结合、工艺的优化等,可以进一步扩大段彩纱的产品应用领域,促使纺织品朝着原料多样化、色彩图案丰富化、产品功能化、生产优异化发展,给予纺织品设计更大的发展空间。

关键词: 段彩纱, 印染段彩法, 混合段彩法, 多功能化, 数字化控制, 仿真