Abstract: With the development of science and technology, people's quality of life is constantly improving and at the same time they have higher requirements for quality of life. Natural dyestuffs are non-toxic, non-hazardous and can be used in a wide range of applications, including textile dyeing, textile functional finishing and batteries. Orange peel, a major by-product of the fruit, is non-toxic and non-hazardous and has certain health benefits, but its role is not fully exploited and is mostly regarded as waste. Therefore, it is imperative that waste is recycled to its full potential in line with today's green trends.
To broaden the chromatographic and waste recycling purposes, this article uses orange peel as a raw material for extraction and dyeing of wool to improve its dyeing performance as a research object. The maximum absorption wavelength of orange peel extracts was determined by using a UV spectrophotometer to determine the maximum absorption wavelength and the colour family of the dyestuff; the maximum absorption wavelength of the extracts was then used to adjust the concentration of ethanol in the extraction solvent system and to investigate the effect of the enzyme dosage and the enzyme at different temperatures and times on the extraction efficiency; finally, the colour fastness of the cashmere was improved by combining metal mordant, tannin-metal composite mordant, and color fixing treatment of dye-fixing agents.
Experiments show that the optimum extraction effect of orange peel pigments is achieved and the enzyme on cellulase and pectinase can give full play to their role when the ethanol concentration is 50%, the material-liquid ratio is 1:20, the cellulase and pectinase quality ratio is 2:1, the temperature is 80 ℃, and the extraction time is 100 min. At the same time, the light fastness of cashmere under the optimal dyeing process can be improved by half grade by using alum dyeing, and the sun fastness of cashmere can be improved to grade 3 or above by using tannin-metal composite mordant and fixing agent M.

Key words: orange peel pigments, bio-enzyme extraction, plant-metal complex mordant, dyeing, cashmere

摘要： 为扩宽天然染料色谱并利用染色废弃物，通过生物酶辅助醇水提取橘皮中的天然色素，并将该色素应用于羊绒染色，分析该色素对羊绒染色的性能。首先分别用纤维素酶、果胶酶以及两种酶的组合对橘皮进行提取，通过单因素试验，探讨生物酶用量、乙醇浓度、提取温度、提取时间对提取效果的影响；然后采用橘皮色素对羊绒进行直接染色发现日晒牢度为2级，进一步研究提高日晒牢度的方法，实验结果表明用金属媒染剂、单宁-金属复合媒染剂、固色剂M对染色后羊绒进行后处理，以提高橘皮色素染色羊绒的耐日晒色牢度、耐皂洗色牢度。结果表明：橘皮色素最佳提取工艺为生物酶用量1%，其中纤维素酶和果胶酶质量比为2∶1，乙醇质量分数50%，提取温度80 ℃，提取时间100 min，料液比1∶20。橘皮色素对羊绒染色具有较高的K/S值，耐皂洗色牢度和耐日晒色牢度可达3级以上。从废弃物中提取天然染料色素，有着较高的应用价值和附加价值，为废弃资源再利用提供了一条有效途径。

关键词: 橘皮色素, 生物酶提取, 单宁-金属复合媒染剂, 染色, 羊绒