Abstract: This article discusses the spinning process and yarn performance of polyester (T) 65/viscose (R) 35 18.5tex blended yarns produced by oversea Lenzing and domestic Yamei. We first determined the spinning process configuration of each process according to the performance characteristics of viscose and polyester fiber and then optimized the domestic viscose spinning process by respectively removing the polyester pre-drawing process and and reducing the number of cotton slivers during mixed drawing process. Then we compared and analyzed the yarn quality of the two branded blended yarns. The results show that they are similar in terms of single yarn strength, hairiness and evenness indexes. Although the common quality defects of the domestic Yamei viscose rose slightly after the optimization, the A1 and other incidental yarn defects declined considerably. On the whole, the domestic Yamei viscose fiber blended yarns are slightly inferior to that of oversea Lenzing, but its yarn quality can be improved by optimizing the spinning process. Moreover, the domestic viscose price is low, and it is rarely out of stock, which has a positive effect on reducing costs and improving the production and development of products.

Key words: viscose, pre-drawing, blending number, yarn defect, nep

摘要： 为开发性能优良的涤粘混纺纱,探讨了国外兰精与国内雅美两种品牌粘胶生产涤纶(T)65粘胶/(R)35 18.5 tex混纺纱的纺纱工艺及其成纱性能。针对粘胶和涤纶纤维性能特点,确定各工序纺纱工艺配置,并优化雅美粘胶纺纱工艺,分别去除涤纶预并工序和减少混并工序棉条根数,对两种混纺纱的成纱质量进行对比分析。结果表明:两种品牌粘胶纤维混纺纱的单纱强力、毛羽及条干指标相近,通过去除涤纶预并和减少混并根数优化后的国内雅美粘胶常发性疵点质量指标虽略微有所增加,但A1及其他偶发性纱疵下降较多。整体上雅美粘胶纤维混纺纱略逊色于兰精粘胶,但可通过优化纺纱工序提高其成纱质量。由于雅美粘胶价格低廉,不易缺货、断货,其在降低成本、提高产品的生产和开发方面具有积极的作用。

关键词: 粘胶, 预并, 并合根数, 纱疵, 棉结