Table of Content

10 May 2024, Volume 32 Issue 5

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Effect of ammonium persulfate concentration on electromagnetic shielding properties of PAN/PANI nanofiber membranes

SU Qi, GAO Yan, GAO Xiaoping, YANG Bochen

2024, 32(5):  1-8. 

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Polyaniline (PANI), as a suitable conductive polymer, has many inherent and unique properties, such as reversible redox properties, electrical conductivity, sensing properties and pH switching. However, due to its poor mechanical properties and thermal stability, it is difficult to be used in the field of electromagnetic shielding materials alone. Due to the limitation of melt extrusion technology, polyaniline fibers can only be formed from the spinning solution during the spinning process. However, the existing methods of preparing polyaniline nanofiber membranes from polyaniline inevitably weaken the mechanical properties of polyaniline.
Based on electrospinning technology, the polyacrylonitrile (PAN) nanofiber membrane was used as raw material and immersed in aniline (An) acid solution, the polyaniline (PANI) coatings were prepared on the surface of PAN nanofibers by in-situ polymerization with the addition of APS (with a respective concentration of 0.1 mol/l, 0.2 mol/l, 0.3 mol/L, 0.4 mol/l and 0.5 mol/L), and the PAN/PANI composite nanofiber membrane was prepared. The microstructures, chemical structures, resistivity and electromagnetic shielding properties of the composite nanofiber membranes were investigated by means of scanning electron microscope, Fourier infrared spectroscopy, four-probe specific resistance tester and radiation protection tester. In addition, the effect of APS concentration on the electromagnetic shielding effectiveness of the composite nanofiber membrane was studied based on the regression analysis method. The results show that the nanofibers with random distribution on the surface of the composite nanofiber membrane have network structure and show dense structure. The nano-fibers on the surface of the PAN/PANI composite fiber membrane will break and become even and compact to agglomerate with the increase of oxidant concentration, which indicates that the oxidant concentration is too low. In other words, the low quality and low yield of PANI produced by An and APS make it impossible for PANI to effectively deposit on PAN, resulting in disconnection on the surface of nanofibers. The excessively high concentration of oxidant results in  agglomeration on the surface of nanofibers. Fourier infra-red spectra show that with the advent of in situ polymerization, the nitrile groups of PAN and PANI interact with each other to generate electrostatic interaction, while PAN and PANI do not react. With the increase of APS concentration, the resistivity of PAN nanofiber membrane decreases first and then increases, which indicates that when the concentration of APS is 0.3 mol/L, the quality of polyaniline is the best, and it can form a good conductive network on PAN, and can effectively absorb and shield electromagnetic waves. SEM photographs of the surface of the composite nanofiber membrane show that the size of APS is the smallest and the structure is the densest when the concentration of the oxidant is 0.3 mol/L, PAN is uniformly and compactly coated on PAN fibers, which improves the structural compactness of the fiber. The potential application of the PAN/PANI composite nanofiber membrane in functional wearable clothing is demonstrated by testing its anti-electromagnetic shielding performance.
This study provides scientific data for the preparation of PAN/PANI composite fiber membranes by in-situ polymerization, and provides a new idea for the development of PAN/PANI composite fiber membranes with high conductivity and anti-electromagnetic radiation.


Preparation and antibacterial properties of silk fibroin-polyaniline composite nanofiber membrane

ZHOU Jiabao, LIU Tao, QIU Qiaohua, ZHU Lingqi, WANG Yanmin, DIN Xinbo

2024, 32(5):  9-17. 

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This article uses electrospinning technology to prepare composite antibacterial (SF PANI) dressings using polyaniline (PANI) and regenerated silk fibroin (SF) as raw materials. Silk fibroin is a structural protein that is spun into fibers by thousands of arthropods and used in vitro. It is a natural high molecular fiber protein and is often used as an ideal dressing for repairing oral, maxillofacial, and systemic skin wounds. The modification of silk fibroin materials with different antibacterial properties has received extensive research and attention. Finished silk fibroin is obtained by degumming, dialysis, and freeze-drying of silkworm cocoons. Due to its easy availability of raw materials, diverse chemical structures, simple synthesis methods, unique doping mechanisms, low cost, and good biological stability, polyaniline functionalized derivatives are a new type of antibacterial agent with the potential to provide anti fouling surfaces as non leaching additives, and have broad application prospects in textile based flexible applications. Electrospinning is a simple, cost-effective, and controllable method for preparing nanofibers or microfibers from polymers in solution or melt state under high voltage electric fields. Through scanning electron microscopy (SEM), it can be seen that as the PANI content in the SF-PANI composite nanofiber membrane increases, the fiber diameter of the composite membrane gradually decreases from a microscopic perspective, and becomes more and more uneven in thickness. From a macro perspective, with the increase of PANI content, the overall color of the nanocomposite fiber membrane changes from pure white to dark green. The chemical composition and structure of PANI were characterized by instruments such as infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) and X-ray powder diffraction (XRD). It was found that PANI was successfully loaded on the SF fiber membrane, and the addition of PANI did not react with SF to produce a new chemical structure. By analyzing the swelling and porosity of the SF-PANI composite fiber membrane, it can be concluded that the overall performance of the composite membrane meets the basic requirements for antibacterial materials. From the mechanical properties of the composite membrane, it can be seen that as the PANI content gradually increases, the mechanical properties of the composite membrane first increase and then decrease. When the PANI content reaches 2%, the mechanical properties are the best. This article studied the antibacterial properties of composite membranes before and after halogenation. It can be seen that before halogenation treatment, the SF-PANI composite nanofiber membrane has good antibacterial performance against Staphylococcus aureus and Staphylococcus aureus. After halogenation, its antibacterial mechanism undergoes a transformation, Compared with the original antibacterial property of polyaniline, n-halogenation releases strong oxidizing poplar ions, which destroy the bacterial cell membrane and enter into the bacterial body, affecting the metabolic process and activity of cellular enzymes, eventually the bacteria die. The results indicate that the chemical composition of the SF-PANI composite nanofiber membrane prepared in this article does not change with the content and modification of polyaniline, and the SF-PANI composite nanofiber membrane has good pore swelling and mechanical properties. It has good application prospects in terms of antibacterial activity against Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus.

Preparation and performance of polyurethane nanofiber membrane for air filtration#br#

LI Jinchao, MEI Shuo, DU Yujia, MA Biao, LI Hong

2024, 32(5):  18-22. 

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The damage of air pollution to human health is receiving more and more attention with the development of society. Protective materials for isolating harmful particles, bacteria, viruses and other harmful microorganisms have attracted unprecedented attention due to the unexpected COVID-19 in the past three years. Preparing more efficient and low-resistance air filter materials has important practical significance.
Nanofiber membranes prepared by electrospinning technology have the advantages of smaller fiber diameter and higher porosity compared with traditional filter materials. They have been a hot research in the field of high efficiency air filtration in recent years. To expand the application of electrospun nanofiber membranes in the air filtration field and to develop more efficient and low-resistance air filtration materials, polyurethane was used as the raw material, tetrahydrofuran (THF) and N, N-dimethylformamide (DMF) were used as solvents in this paper. The polyurethane nanofibers prepared by electrospinning had dendritic branches by adding different kinds of salts to the spinning solution, and the conductivity of the spinning solution was increased. The dendritic structures made the pore size of the nanofiber membranes smaller to further improve the filtration efficiency. The influences of the spinning voltage, salt type and addition on the morphology, hydrophobicity and air filtration of the fiber membrane were studied. The results show that at a solution concentration of 14%, the type of salt and spinning voltage have great influence on the branching structure, and the branching structure of polyurethane nanofiber membranes is most obvious when the TBAC is added with the spinning voltage being 35 KV. Meanwhile, The contact angle of fiber membranes decreases from 99.1° to 82.8° with the addition of the salts (the hydrophilicity of membrane materials increases), which can improve the moisture absorption and moisture conductivity of air filter materials in a certain level. The filtration performance is significantly improved (the filtration efficiency increases from 50.8% to 93.6%). The branching superfine nanofibers can further reduce the pore size of the ninafiber membrane, which can separate smaller size particles; the specific surface area increases as the fiber becomes thinner, and thus the contact area between particles and fibers increases; the probability of adsorbing and capturing particles increases, and thus increases the filtration efficiency of the fiber membrane. At the same time, due to the smaller diameter, the resistance of the branched ultrafine nanofibers is correspondingly reduced, so that the filtration resistance of the filter material is also maintained at a low level, and the quality factor that can reflect the comprehensive filtration performance of the filter material is improved from 0.009 to 0.073. Therefore, ultrafine nanofibers are suitable for high-efficiency and low-resistance air filtration materials. 


Construction and thermal conductivity of PVDF/Ag fiber membranes with high thermal conductivity

QI Qinghuan, SHI Xiaohan, ZHANG Qing, YUAN Baokui, ZHOU Yuman

2024, 32(5):  23-31. 

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Conventional textiles cannot effectively dissipate heat in frequent high temperature weather caused by global warming, which cannot meet the needs of people or objects for thermal regulation. Textiles with thermal conductivity have received extensive attention because they can transfer the heat of the human body or objects directly to the external environment for realizing heat regulation through heat conduction in a simple and fast way. Based on this, textiles with thermal conductivity are widely developed through various methods such as fiber blending, coating, and filling. However, there still exist many limitations of complicated preparation process, easy shedding and uneven distribution of material with thermal conductive, and insufficient improvement of thermal conductivity.
To improve the thermal conductivity of fiber materials, we, starting from fine structure regulation of thermal conductivity networks, selected polyvinylidene fluoride (PVDF) and Ag flakes with different scales as the substrate and thermal conductivity filler, designed the connecting structures of mix-scaled Ag sheets in the fiber membrane, and used electrospinning technology to construct a PVDF/Ag fiber membrane with a three-dimensional interconnected thermal conductivity network in one step. The morphologies and chemical structures of the PVDF/Ag fiber membrane were characterized by field emission scanning electron microscope with EDS spectrometer and X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy. The distribution and formed network structure of mix-scaled Ag flakes in the fiber were analyzed through morphology observation. The water contact angle and mechanical properties of the fiber membrane were recorded by droplet contact angle measuring instrument and strength testing instrument. The thermal conductivity and mechanism of PVDF/Ag fiber films under different Ag flake sizes, Ag flake contents, and compression degrees were researched by using a thermal conductivity meter. Finally, the practical application on thermal conductivity of PVDF/Ag fiber membranes before and after compression was tested through a heating table and temperature by measuring instruments. The results show that the addition of mixed-size Ag flakes can form a three-dimensional network structure with internal connectivity of a single fiber and external connectivity between fibers and their connectivity between fibers gradually enhances with the content increase of large-sized Ag flakes. When the Ag content is four times that of PVDF polymer, the PVDF/Ag fiber membrane with a three-dimensional interconnected network structure exhibits excellent thermal conductivity, with a thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.1038 W/(mK), which is 61% higher than that of pure PVDF fiber membranes. After compression treatment, the thermal conductivity of the PVDF/Ag fiber membrane increases to 8.693 W/(mK), which is 83.6 times higher than before compression. When the PVDF/Ag fiber membrane before and after compression is placed on a 37 ℃ hot bench, both show a fast temperature rise rate, demonstrating good practical application ability. Also, the PVDF/Ag fiber membrane exhibits excellent mechanical and hydrophobic properties.
Compared to existing textiles with thermal conductivity, the PVDF/Ag fiber membrane constructed in this paper with a three-dimensional interconnected thermal-conductive network not only exhibits better thermal conductivity, but also has good mechanical and hydrophobic properties, demonstrating excellent application potential in related fields such as multi-functional textiles and other flexible thermal conductive materials. Furthermore, Ag sheets also have other excellent functions such as antibacterial and electrical conductivity, which is of great guiding significance for the further development of multifunctional textiles and flexible materials.


Effect of pre-draft ratio of elastane filaments on the properties of yarns wrapped with cotton/spandex/stainless steel wires

WANG Yong, a, b, QIAO Qifanb, WANG Zongqianb, LI Changlongb, WANG Wei,

2024, 32(5):  32-40. 

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Recently, the demand of protective and comfortable performances of personal protective equipment is gradually increasing. For electromagnetic shielding fabrics, most of the existing surface-coated electromagnetic shielding protective materials have certain disadvantages such as inelasticity, poor shape retention, poor washing resistance, and uncomfortable characteristics. The development of a new material having the characteristics of mechanically stretchability, controllable structure, flexible manufacturing, and electromagnetic shielding durability has become the first choice for the next generation of textile-based electromagnetic shielding materials. To fabricate high-performance yarns with excellent elasticity and shielding capability is a necessary prerequisite for the preparation of intrinsically stretchable electromagnetic shielding textile fabrics. Given this, the intrinsically stretchable electromagnetic shielding fabrics were constructed from the double level of “elastic yarn-elastic fabric” in this study. Specifically, elastic wrapped yarns containing metal wire were fabricated based on a hollow-spindle wrap spinning system with elastane filament (EF) as the core, stainless steel wire as the first wrapping layer and cotton ply yarn as the second wrapping layer. The effect of the pre-draft ratio of EF on the tensile and elastic behaviors of wrapped yarns was systematically investigated, and the processing parameter were optimized by using the fuzzy comprehensive evaluation method. After that, a weft stretch woven fabric having the characteristics of high stretchability and robust electromagnetic shielding effectiveness was produced, and the key factors influencing the shielding efficiency were systematically clarified.
In this work, the flexibility of relatively rigid stainless steel wire can be realized by using two sets of hollow spindle device in series, the design of yarn structure and the configuration of the components within a wrapped yarn are responsible for the above results. The as-fabricated wrapped yarns are well wrapped by cotton ply yarn, and no stainless steel wire and EF components can be visibly seen. Further, taking the pre-draft ratio of EF 2.5 as an example, the resultant wrapped yarn has a more bulking surface profile compared with the straighten one, which facilitates its elastic elongation rate to 240.5% without distortion. Importantly, the macroscopically observable stretchability is closely related to the pre-draft ratio of EF, and the electrical conductivity of the wrapped yarns can keep maintained during the stretching process. The experimental results demonstrate that the pre-draft ratio of EF has significant influence on the related properties of the resultant wrapped yarns. With the increase of the pre-draft ratio of EF, the breaking strength of yarns gradually increases while the extension at break decreases. From the tensile curves of the resultant wrapped yarns with varying pre-draft ratios of EF we can see that, the fracture mode has converted from multiple breaks to single break with an increase of the pre-draft ratio. Also, the superior elastic properties of wrapped yarns can be obtained when the pre-draft ratio of EF is between 2.5 and 3.0. In addition, the optimized process parameter for fabricating such wrapped yarns can be obtained via fuzzy comprehensive evaluation method, that is, the pre-draft ratio of EF 2.5 within the predetermined scope in this work. Finally, a weft stretch woven fabric was manufactured with cotton ply yarn and wrapped yarn with optimized process parameter as warp and weft respectively. It is found that the effective electromagnetic shielding can be realized when the direction of stainless steel wire within the fabric is consistent with the direction of electric field vibration, and vice versa. The electromagnetic shielding capability of fabric gradually increases with an increase of tensile strain of fabric in weft direction.
The relevant research of this paper will not only provide technical support and realize the optimization of key process parameter for the fabrication of multifunctional wrapped yarns, but also provide certain theoretical basis and practical guidance for the scientific design of fabric-based electromagnetic shielding materials.


Effect of twist coefficient ratio on the performance of strands and fabric

CHEN Xingdong, LIU Xinjin

2024, 32(5):  41-50. 

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The most critical process parameter of the strand production is the twist coefficient, including the single yarn twist coefficient and the strand twist coefficient, which not only directly affects the hand feel, volume density, wear resistance, color absorption, feather and fuzzing and pilling of the strand, but also has a great influence on the strong extension performance of the strand. Understanding the relationship between the strand and the strong extension performance of the yarn plays an important role in ensuring the product quality, developing new varieties and guiding the spinning process.
To reflect the twist coefficient ratio of strand performance, with the polyester coarse yarn and pure cotton coarse yarn as raw materials, we spun 18.5tex polyester single yarn and 29.5tex cotton single yarn by changing the twist coefficient ratio, further spun the single yarn into two strands and three strands of polyester and pure cotton, respectively by reverse twisting, and explored the twist coefficient ratio on the strength and elongation, evenness and fabric property of the corresponding double strands and three strands. 
 In this project, the twist design is opposite to the single yarn. Specifically, Z twist is used for single yarn, with the twist coefficient being 340 twist/10cm, while S twist is adopted for two-strand yarns, with the twist coefficient ratios being the two sides, the middle and the end points of  and 2, namely 0.6,, 1, and 1.5. For three-strand yarns, the twist design opposite to that of single yarn is adopted. Specifically, Z twist is used for single yarn while S twist is adopted for three-strand yarns, with the twist coefficient ratios being the two sides, the middle and the end points of  and , namely 0.7, , 1.2,  and 1.8. The properties of the spun two-strand yarns, three-strand yarns and fabrics thereof are tested and analyzed, which is of great research significance.
The results show that with the increase of the twist coefficient ratio, the two-strand yarn and three-strand yarn of the two materials have two design twist coefficient ratios. The two design twist coefficient ratios of the two-strand yarn are  and , and those of the three-strand yarn are  and . When the twist coefficient ratio of the two-strand yarn and three-strand yarn is  and , respectively, the strength and elongation, yarn unevenness and H value of hairiness are the optimal. Whether it is two-strand yarn or three-strand yarn, the fabric with the second design twist ratio has better tearing and tensile properties than the fabric with the first design twist ratio under the same conditions. We study the effect of changing spinning parameters on yarn properties with different twist ratios, spinning modes and twist coefficients. We then optimize the yarn test results, and then spin the yarn with the last comprehensive performance as the raw material to test the fabric properties, and study the influence of different yarn properties on the fabric properties, which has great research significance for weaving woven fabrics with better performance.


Light transmission characteristics of  interwoven decorative fabrics made of silk with hidden weft of different colors

LI Xin, SHAO Lingda, MING Lin, HE Rong, JIN Xiaoke, ZHU Chengyan, TIAN Wei

2024, 32(5):  51-57. 

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Curtains are an important part of interior decorative fabrics. Selecting the appropriate products can not only safeguard the seclusion of indoor individuals, but also produce a unique illumination and shading effect. With the improvement of people's quality of life, they are no longer limited to using curtains with a high shading coefficient. People's needs for indoor light will change at any time because each room has a different function. The requirement for shade in ornamental textiles also differs, thus additional shade is not preferable. To meet people's needs, researchers and scholars at home and abroad have in-depth research on decorative fabrics. Currently, their primary objective is to enhance the fabric's shading coefficient. Few studies have been conducted on the color temperature and color rendering property of the transmitted light.
The main purpose of this paper was to investigate the different transmitted light effects of a light source through a fabric. Multi-layer structured fabrics were woven by interweaving silk and polyester, with different colored yarns as the middle weft. Subsequently, a spectrophotometer was used to test the transmittance of fabrics in the visible range and to study the effect of fabrics on transmittance and shading coefficient. The color temperature of the transmitted light was calculated, and the color temperature was used to describe the color of the transmitted light. To examine the influence of transmitted light on the hue of indoor items, the color saturation and color rendering performance of various fabric transmitted light were compared by using the IES TM-30 color rendering evaluation index. The findings indicate that the color of the hidden weft in multilayer-structured silk fabrics has great influence on light transmittance. As the L* of the yarn decreases, the fabric's shading coefficient increases, spanning from 75.98% to 97.72%. By altering the color of the hidden weft, one can effectively regulate the color temperature. When the spectral power distribution of the transmitted light of the fabric is more in the short wave, its color temperature is higher; when the spectral power distribution of the transmitted light is more in the long wave, the color temperature is lower. Fabrics containing white and black wefts have the best color rendering performance with Rf and Rg reaching 100. The Rf of transmitted light of fabrics containing orange, yellow, cyan and blue weft yarns exceeds 80. The transmitted light of fabrics containing orange and cyan weft yarns provides high color saturation; the transmitted light of fabrics containing yellow and blue weft yarns has low color saturation. It can be seen that the colored weft can make the transmitted light of fabrics with different characteristics. The results of this study can provide theoretical reference for weaving decorative fabrics with different transmitted light effects.


Design of on-line device for measuring the concentration of soluble dye solutions

ZHANG Hangruia, ZHANG Jianxinb

2024, 32(5):  58-64. 

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With the advancement and expansion of the printing and dyeing market, China has emerged as the world's leading textile producer and trading nation. In the textile industry, color serves as a crucial parameter for evaluating textile quality. During factory production, the concentration of dyes in the dyeing process primarily influences the color of textiles. Therefore, to ensure accurate color reproduction, it becomes imperative to monitor the dyeing status within the dye solution and continuously detect its concentration in real-time throughout the dyeing process to guarantee optimal printing and dyeing outcomes. Traditional methods for determining dye concentration include titration, gravimetry, density measurement, etc., all of which rely on manual sampling resulting in random errors and limited real-time performance. Currently employed techniques for measuring dye concentration encompass spectrophotometry, fluorescence analysis, high-performance liquid chromatography, and comprehensive flow injection analysis. Among these methods, spectrophotometry stands out due to its exceptional sensitivity levels along with simple operation procedures that are rapid yet non-destructive. However, this technique necessitates expensive equipment that is bulky in size while also demanding high technical proficiency from operators.
In this paper, a device for detecting the concentration of soluble dye solutions was designed based on the fundamental principles of spectrophotometry and C12666MA micro-spectrometer. The device was tested with dye solutions prepared using acid bright red B, acid dark blue 5R, and acid light yellow G to obtain the light intensity of monochromatic light passing through the dye solution. A PLS model was established to detect the concentration of the dye solution in real time using the micro-spectrometer. It was found that the performance of the PLS model based on partial light intensity data ranging from 400 nm to 700 nm outperformed that of a full-band light intensity-based PLS model. The error between the detected concentrations by our device and actual concentrations is less than 5%, indicating high accuracy. Compared to traditional manual methods for concentration detection, our device offers improved automation, simplicity in operation, lower cost, and smaller size.
The current concentration detection device for soluble dye solutions is still in the developmental stage, with limited practical applications. This paper presents an online concentration detection device specifically designed for soluble dye solutions, enabling real-time monitoring of dye solution concentrations. This device ensures the quality of printing and dyeing production while meeting the requirements for intelligent and environmentally-friendly production processes. Moreover, it serves as a valuable reference for the development of automated detection equipment for dye solution concentrations.


Influence of sizing machine speed and squeezing force on sizing rates

HUANG Ming, WANG Kuang, WANG Jing'an, GAO Weidong

2024, 32(5):  65-72. 

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Sizing is a crucial process in weaving production, and its quality directly impacts the production efficiency of weaving machines and the quality of the fabric. The technology of sizing machines has a significant influence on the sizing effect. Among them, regulating the sizing machine speed and squeezing force is the top priority of the sizing process. During operation, the speed of the sizing machine is in a constantly changing state due to the requirements of start-up, stopping, fault treatment, and moisture regain control. Changes in the speed of the sizing machine directly affect the adsorption and squeezing of size liquor when the yarn passes through the size box, causing fluctuations in the sizing rate. Therefore, modern sizing machines are equipped with speed-force matching control technology, which can adjust squeezing force when the speed changes, thereby achieving stable sizing rates and the same sizing effect. At present, the schemes used in the matching control technology of sizing machine speed and squeezing force are all linear. Due to the lack of theoretical basis for this linear relationship and the reliance on manual experience in calibrating the linear model, there are certain errors in the actual control of sizing rates.
To better control the sizing rate by controlling the squeezing force when the speed of the sizing machine changes, we simplified the warp sizing process into the yarn immersion and squeezing process by making rational assumptions about the sizing problem. Firstly, in the analytical discussion of the immersion process, a functional relationship between immersion time and the space in which the yarn has absorbed the size liquor was established. Then, through the in-depth investigation of the mechanism of the squeezing process, the functional relationship between the amount of sizing liquid squeezed and the speed of the sizing machine and the squeezing force was constructed. A model of the relationship between sizing machine speed and squeezing force on sizing rates was constructed according to the aforementioned process. Six levels were set for sizing machine speed and squeezing force respectively, comprehensive experiments were carried out on all combinations of each level of these two parameters, and a total of 36 data were obtained for fitting the constructed model. The R2 value of the goodness of fit reaches 0.8754, which verifies that the model proposed in this paper elucidates the mechanism of the influence of sizing machine speed and squeezing force on sizing rates to a certain extent.
To check the application effect of the model from the practical perspective, the sizing rates of 8%, 9%, 10%, 11%, and 12% were taken as the target sizing rates, and based on the model constructed in this paper, the values of squeezing force were deduced and calculated under the sizing machine speeds of 10, 20, 30, 40, and 50 m/min, and the values were calculated based on the model constructed in this paper. And the sizing experiments were carried out under the corresponding processes. The results show that when the scheme modeled in this paper is used, the average relative error of the measured sizing rate is 2.59%. The average relative error of the measured sizing rate is 16.31% when the linear scheme is used for sizing under the same conditions. It shows that the model scheme constructed in this paper is significantly better than the linear model scheme in controlling the sizing rate. It is beneficial to realize the stable regulation of sizing rates under different vehicle speeds, and can meet the stability requirements of sizing production. It has good industrial application value.


Analysis of global silk trade's network characteristics

ZHOU Zi'ao, GAO Shiya, ZHANG Yongli, LI Yuan

2024, 32(5):  73-83. 

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Silk trade epitomizes the commerce along the Silk Road, exerting a driving force in fostering economic and trade development as well as cultural exchange between the East and the West. Analyzing the global silk trade and its network characteristics helps to systematically comprehend the sustainable trade trends within the silk industry.
By selecting trade data on global silk trade from 2014 to 2022, and employing a comparative statistical analysis methodology, insights were gained into the fluctuating trends of global silk trade during the aforementioned period. Further investigation was conducted by focusing on the trade data from 2018 to 2022, to delve into the import and export values of silk among nations worldwide. Moreover, a population and economic analysis was performed by selecting the top 30 countries (or regions) in terms of import and export trade volume in 2022. Comparative analysis was conducted to examine the interrelationships between per capita import and export trade values, per capita GDP, and population size.
Based on global silk trade data, a trade network was constructed to analyze the in-degree and out-degree centrality of countries by using import and export data from 2021 to 2022. This analysis aimed to determine the number and changes in trading partners for major silk trading countries in the past two years. Additionally, the relationship between the import and export values of major trading countries with their trade partners was compared to further analyze the characteristics of silk trade for each country. Furthermore, weighted network centrality was utilized to visualize the global silk trading countries and their trade relationships in 2022. By examining the size of nodes and the density of connections, this visualization provided an intuitive representation of the import and export capabilities of major silk trading countries. It highlighted the distinct contrast between silk trade giants and ordinary trading nations, and showcased the geographical distribution of silk trade. Representative countries that consistently ranked high in trade volume and exhibited stable fluctuations over the five-year period were analyzed to understand the origins of their import and export trade. This endeavor aimed to explore the trade trends and cooperative dynamics among major silk trading nations globally. Additionally, a group of representative source countries for export trade was enumerated for comprehensive analysis.
Based on the econometric analysis of trade volume and complex network analysis method, this paper analyzed the development trend, evolution process and structural characteristics of the global silk trade pattern in recent years from the dimensions of global silk import trade volume, export trade volume, per capita trade volume and trading partners.
Research suggests that from 2014 to 2022, the global silk trade volume exhibited a fluctuating trend, with a significant decline in 2020 due to the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic. Italy and India had consistently been high-importing countries in the global silk trade, while China and Italy had long dominated the global silk export sector. Italy, China, and India not only had significant trade volume in the trade network but had also established extensive import and export trade partnerships. The per capita economic development level had a certain influence on silk trade, with developed countries having a competitive advantage in the global silk trade. Although countries like China and India had high trade volume, their per capita trade volume was relatively low. The global silk import and export trade network exhibited complex characteristics, with silk trade giants having a strong attractiveness in the import network and a significant radiating effect in the export network.
In the post-pandemic era, maintaining a stable international silk trade pattern is crucial for promoting the development of the silk trade. Driven by economic recovery and global trade globalization, establishing a circular economic system and promoting green and low-carbon development in the silk industry are the core principles for sustainable trade development. Additionally, it is essential for both businesses and governments to improve the global silk trade value chain from the production, processing, and transportation aspects. By considering the characteristics of silk markets, industrial structures, and location advantages in various countries, extending the silk industry chain and expanding the silk trade market will remain a joint effort for both enterprises and governments.


Visual Analysis of Mongolian Costume Research Progress Based on CiteSpace

GUO Xiaofanga, b, ZHANG Weishia, ZHANG Ruixiaa, b

2024, 32(5):  84-96. 

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Mongolian costume is an important part of China's excellent traditional culture, with rich historical and cultural connotations, and plays a crucial role in traditional ethnic cultural inheritance and promoting the spirit of nations. At present, there is relatively little literature on Mongolian clothing research abroad, while domestic research are more abundant and have shown a clearer development line. But in general, the scope involved is not broad and comprehensive, and there are more studies on the costume of specific Mongolian tribes, while there is a lack of systemic and general sorting and analysis based on the Mongolian clothing as a whole.
In order to better promote the inheritance and development of Mongolian costume and to analyze the overall situation, status and hot trends of the current research, 503 articles closely related to the research of Mongolian costume in the past 40 years in the database of CNKI and the core collection database of WOS were used as the research samples, and the bibliometric software CiteSpace was used to visually present and analyze the number of articles, source journals, core authors, research institutions, keywords co-occurrence and clustering, related research hotspots, and emergent words. Keywords clustering analysis were used to categorize the current research status of Mongolian clothing by themes and to classify its research stages according to keywords emergence map.
The results show that in the field of Mongolian costume related research, the number of published articles shows an overall trend of increasing year by year since 1983, especially it was included in the list of China's national intangible cultural heritage after 2008, and the research value of Mongolian clothing is continuously increasing. At this stage, the research scholars and publishing journals are relatively limited, most of them are local scholars and local publishing journals in Inner Mongolia. The research institutions to which the authors belong show obvious regional limitations due to the regional influence of Mongolian costume, and inter-institutional cooperation is relatively loose, with less cross-school and cross-regional cooperation. It is recommended that scholars in this field should further enhance their cooperation to expand their research content and improve the quality of their publishing articles. Based on the keywords co-occurrence map, 36 high-frequency keywords were screened out and clustered into 15 research groups, which were categorized into four major thematic categories basing on the current status of Mongolian costume research: historical development and cultural mixture, basic attributes of the clothing, cultural inheritance and development, and modern innovative design. Based on the keywords emergence map, the research on Mongolian clothing were divided into three stages based on research hotspots: the period from 1999 to 2009 belongs to the research phase of historical development and evolution of Mongolian clothing, the period from 2010 to 2016 belongs to the research phase of Mongolian costumes ontology, and the period from 2017 to 2023 belongs to the research phase of Mongolian clothing inheritance, protection, and innovative design. In the future, there will be a boom of innovative design in which diverse costume cultures are mixed with modern science and technology.


Dynamic thermal and moisture comfort of the bedding system in different conditions

ZHANG Luyang, SONG Haibo, MENG Jing, SHI Tingting, LU Yehu

2024, 32(5):  97-104. 

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Thermal environment is an important factor affecting people's sleep quality, including the external environment and microclimate of the bedding system. Among them, the microclimate of the bedding system has a more significant impact on sleep thermal comfort. In order to evaluate thermal and moisture comfort of quilts, a subjective evaluation method by sweating thermal manikin was developed. A subjective evaluation method based on the metabolic heat production sweating of a thermal manikin was established. There are six quilt samples in different materials. The newly developed evaluation method was used to evaluating these samples in four environmental conditions constructed by climate chamber. Three indices including sweating thermal manikins' mean skin temperature, internal air temperature and relative humidity of quilts' microclimate were measured. The comfort property of quilt samples in different conditions was analyzed and compared. 
The thermal manikin's mean skin temperature changed over time. The thermal manikin's mean skin temperature was within comfortable range when covered by all four types of quilts in summer air-conditioned room. At the end of the test, the thermal manikin's mean skin temperature was steady when it was covered by gauze quilts, silk quilts and padded gauze quilts, indicating that these three types of quilts were more appropriate for this environmental condition. Under the condition of summer high temperature, the thermal manikin's mean skin temperature was within a comfortable range only when it was covered by gauze quilts. In winter heated room, the mean skin temperature was comfortable when  it was covered by cotton quilts and chemical fiber quilts, ending up in 31.6 ℃. The chemical fiber quilt was the most suitable one for season alternating condition. It was also found that the thermal manikin's mean skin temperature was higher when it was covered by quilt samples of higher thermal insulation. As for internal air temperature of quilts' microclimate, its change trend was similar to that of the thermal manikin's mean skin temperature. The value difference between internal air temperature of quilts' microclimate and the thermal manikin's mean skin temperature was bigger environmental temperature was lower. The internal relative humidity of quilts' microclimate also changed over time. It was around comfortable range for all samples in summer air-conditioned room and winter heated room, and out of comfortable range in summer high-temperature condition and seasons alternating condition. Under all of the four test environmental conditions, internal relative humidity of quilts' microclimate is lowest when the  thermal manikin was covered by gauze quilt, which was related to air permeability of quilt samples.
The sweating thermal manikin's mean skin temperature during sleep varies with different quilts samples and environmental conditions. It is closely related to the thermal insulation of quilts and also affected by the air permeability of quilts under a high temperature condition. The change trend between internal air temperature of quilts' microclimate and the thermal manikin's mean skin temperature is similar in same condition, demonstrating that both indices can characterize thermal property of quilts. Internal relative humidity of quilts' microclimate is relative to air permeability and fabric structure. The thermal and moisture comfort of quilts is related to their thermal insulation and air permeability. Gauze quilts perform good thermal and moisture comfort property in several conditions because of their good air permeability.


 Research and application progress of localization of polyester filament oil agents

LU Qianqian, ZHANG Fengming, MA Jianbin, MEI Yulong, SONG Chunmin, CUI Li,

2024, 32(5):  105-115. 

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 China's polyester filament industry is developing towards high quality, multi-variety and high yield. At the same time, it puts forward higher requirements for oil agents. At present, the pre-spinning oil agents and industrial silk oil agents with high-quality requirements mainly rely on imports, which greatly increases the production cost of chemical fiber enterprises. The continuous development of domestic polyester filament oil agents that meet the requirements is conducive to the development of China's textile industry. In this paper, the research progress of the domestic application of the most widely used polyester POY, DTY, FDY and industrial yarn oil agents was reviewed in detail, including composition and requirements, industry overview, type, formulation and effect, to provide a reference for the development of high-quality and large-scale domestic oil agents in China in the future.
There are few hydrophilic groups in polyester macromolecules, and it is easy to produce static electricity in the spinning process. The use of oil agents is conducive to post-processing, improving textile efficiency and ensuring product quality. Polyester filament oil agents are mainly composed of smoothing agents, emulsifiers, stabilizerss, antistatic agents and cluster agents. It is necessary to give the fiber excellent wear resistance, cluster, smoothing, wetting and antistatic properties in the high-speed spinning process to meet the production process requirements.
At present, China mainly imports high-quality POY, FDY and industrial filament oil agents from Japan, Germany and the United States. Imported products have the characteristics of high quality, many types and wide application range. The scale of domestic oil agent companies represented by Zhejiang Transfar Co., Ltd., Tianjin Gongda Textile Additives Co., Ltd. and Zhejiang Huangma Technology Co., Ltd. has gradually expanded and the quality has been gradually improved, and products that can replace imported oil agents have been continuously developed. Some large chemical fiber companies such as Xin Feng Ming Group, Tongkun Group and Hengyi Group are also increasing the research and development of oil agents. At present, DTY oil agents have been domesticated.
Compared with civil filament, the polyester industrial filament has the characteristics of high strength, wear resistance, lightweight and good stability. It is widely used in cords, conveyor belts, seat belts, cables and airbags, etc. It has high added value. Industrial filaments put forward higher requirements for the performance of oil agents. At present, the domestic rate of industrial filament oil agents in China is not high, and the development of high-quality oil agents for special purposes should be strengthened in the future.
The research and development of polyester filament oil agents is developing in the direction of environmental protection, anti-spatter, anti-oxidation and good stability, and continuously meets the market requirements of porous fine denier, full extinction, colored silk, bionic and high-strength industrial silk. In the future, it should be combined with new technologies and new materials to continuously improve quality and reduce costs.


Research progress in the preparation and application of melt-blown nonwovens

LIU Chena, YANG Kailua, CHEN Mingxinga, b, WANG Xinyaa, b, ZHANG Weia, b

2024, 32(5):  116-129. 

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As the global COVID-19 epidemic is raging, nonwovens with functions such as air liquid filtration, disinfection and antibacterial properties are rapidly becoming a hot topic of attention. As a new textile material, melt-blown nonwovens have the advantages of good flexibility, high air permeability, simple manufacturing process and low cost. Compared with woven fabrics, nonwoven fabrics have shorter production process, faster speed, wider fiber selection range, and smaller minimum unit fineness. Especially in terms of porosity, the total porosity of nonwoven filter mats can reach more than 80%. In view of the advantages of melt-blown nonwoven materials, now people have been applied to air filtration, liquid filtration, medical antibacterial disinfection, intelligent electronic textiles and other fields. This paper summarized the latest research progress of melt-blown nonwovens in raw material selection, manufacturing process, structure design and application, and prospected the research and development prospects. In order to clarify the future development direction, on the basis of existing technology and problems, it is very important to sum up how to develop melt-blown nonwovens with new technology and new properties in the future.
At present, there are a lot of research progress and achievements in melt-blown nonwoven materials. For example, polylactic acid (PLA) is used as raw material, and the melt-blown nonwoven materials with green environmental protection and degradable function are developed by melt-blown process. The materials can be manufactured by introducing polyethylene glycol or mixing PLA and polycaprolactone, and the toughness of the materials is better than that of pure PLA melt-blown nonwoven materials, and they can be used for air filtration and other aspects to reduce environmental pollution and resource waste. By chemical modification of polypropylene (PP) melt-blown nonwovens, PP nonwovens can obtain self-cleaning, super hydrophobic, ultra-high filtration efficiency and other functions, so as to be better used in human production and life. Microfiber nonwovens prepared by melt-blown nonwovens have the characteristics of large specific surface area, small pore size and high porosity. Therefore, compared with nonwovens made by other processes, melt-blow nonwovens have significant advantages in filter, shielding, heat insulation and oil absorption, and they can be widely used in warm keeping, filtration, oil absorption, medical health, industrial and family wiper cloth, sound insulation and other fields. One of the representative applications of filter materials is the mask, melt-blow material is the core of the mask, playing the main filtering role.
At present, due to technical limitations, it is slightly difficult to innovate the equipment and process of domestic melt-blown nonwoven materials in the short term. Therefore, the innovation of melt-blown nonwovens mainly focuses on the research of raw materials. The melt-blown nonwovens in the market are basically made of PP, and the PP melt-blown nonwovens occupy almost all the share of the melt-blown market. However, the use of single material undoubtedly limits the development and application of melt-blown materials to a certain extent. The development of textile industry and textile technology has played a vital role in the evolution of human civilization. With the development of the scientific and technological level, some advantages and suitable development directions of melt-blown nonwovens materials have been found. Melt-blown nonwovens materials are developing towards multi-function, environmental protection, recyclability and better benefiting human beings. The function modification and function enhancement of melt-blown nonwovens are developing vigorously. At present, PET, PP or other composite filter media are mainly used in China, and although much attention has been paid to the application of high-performance fiber filter materials, it is still necessary to increase research and development efforts, especially in the structural design and finishing.  It is necessary to improve product performance through optimizing the product structure, so that the filter media has the advantages of high efficiency, low resistance, easy cleaning and long service life. In addition, there still lacks authoritative testing and certification bodies of high temperature-resistant filter materials in China, which restricts the entry of high-performance filter material into the high-end market to a certain extent, so it is necessary to increase the investment of testing institutions and testing equipment.


Research progress of the value co-creation behavior in online customization of apparel

ZHANG Ying , WU Yanfei, LI Hao

2024, 32(5):  130-140. 

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In recent years, changes in consumer attitudes and upgraded demands have sharply increased demand for personalized clothing. This is particularly evident as the post-90s and post-00s generations, who place greater emphasis on experiential aspects, have become the main consumers in the clothing market, driving the development of online clothing customization. Online clothing customization meets consumers' basic needs for personalized attire and offers strong interactivity and experiential value, providing consumers with positive emotional experiences. With the rise of the experience economy, the way traditional enterprises provide value is evolving towards co-creation between enterprises and users, emphasizing the joint creation of user value. To explore the mechanism of user co-creation behavior in online clothing customization, this study analyzed the research hotspots of clothing customization and value co-creation in the past decade based on CiteSpace literature analysis software, and provided a theoretical basis for the combination of research knowledge of the two. It explored the research progress of user co-creation in online clothing customization based on the theory of value co-creation and the research object of online clothing  customization. Given the relatively scarce literature on the intersection of these two concepts, this study borrowed and analyzed research results from the field of value co-creation in design, thus opening up a research perspective on the co-creation of value between enterprises and users in the field of clothing customization. The study analyzed the process and influencing factors of users achieving value co-creation with enterprises through collaborative design and interactive feedback.
Through literature review, this study categorized the development process of online clothing customization under the experience economy into three stages: traditional customization, Internet+ online customization, and Internet+smart customization. Additionally, the study summarized three main characteristics of online clothing customization: personalization, digitization, and collaborative creation. Based on the digital technology and user participation methods used on different platforms, the study also summarized the level of user participation in existing customization platforms. It is evident that as platforms provide more participation methods, users' involvement becomes more profound. Furthermore, the study discussed the origin and main theoretical framework of value co-creation theory, focusing on its research progress in the field of design. However, due to the lack of research on the concept of user value co-creation in online clothing customization, this study drew on value co-creation theory and cases from the design field to analyze value co-creation methods for users in the process of online clothing customization. Finally, this study integrated research results from both online clothing customization and user value co-creation, proposing four suggestions to promote consumer participation in value co-creation for online clothing customization. These suggestions include deeply mining user demands, improving platform design and co-creation experiences, enhancing the frequency and quality of interaction between users and between users and brands, and placing importance on value co-creation in metaverse community platforms and social media.
In summary, this study constructs a theoretical framework for consumer participation in value co-creation in online clothing customization, addressing the current scarcity of cross-research between online customization and value co-creation, and providing direction for future related academic research.