关键词: 宋锦, 生织匹染, 涤纶, 灰度值, 产品设计

Abstract:

In order to solve the problems of Song brocade products, that is, high production cost and small target audience, this paper puts forward the innovation and development of Song brocade products via raw fabric piece dyeing process by utilizing the dyeing difference between silk and polyester. Through an investigation of famous Song brocade products, the gray ratio range between two colors, that is, background color and floral color is obtained, and then a dyeing experiment is designed to acquire the effect of three factors, on dyeing temperature, holding time and dye dosage on the coloring of silk and polyester. The dyeing process is optimized through an orthogonal experiment, and a dyeing scheme matching the survey is obtained, so that Song brocades can achieve a bi-color or multi-color effect. The results show that the conventional gray ratio range of background color to floral color of Song brocade is 0.4~0.6. In an acidic environment, high temperature is more beneficial to silk dyeing, and the change of dyeing is distinct when the dye dosage is between 1% and 3% (o.w.f). The dyeing difference and gray ratio of silk and polyester are in line with the survey results. Young, low-cost and diversified Song brocade products can be developed through raw fabric piece dyeing or yarn dyed weaving.

Key words: Song brocade, raw fabric piece dyeing, polyester, gray value, product design