Abstract: In order to investigate the optimal experimental conditions for cyanotype process of textiles, the cyanotype effects of different fabrics from cotton, linen and silk were evaluated via K/S values and the reason for the color difference was analyzed via the diffusion of photosensitizer on fabric surfaces. It is found that the wettability has a significant effect on cyanotype tanning for different fabrics and it is also crucial to tune the diffusivity of photosensitizer agents on fabric surfaces. Parameters like photosensitizer concentration, mixing ratio and exposure time were optimized and investigated to evaluate the feasibility of dip-padding and cyanotype method. SEM and TG analyzer were applied to characterize the morphology change and temperature-mass change relationship and the deposition mechanism of Prussian blue (PB) was investigated. Results indicate that the best loading process requires a photosensitizer concentration of 140 g/L, a mixing ratio VA: VB of 1:1, and an exposure time of 20 min. Large amounts of solid particles are deposited onto cotton fabric with an average size of 0.42±0.16 μm. TG analysis shows compared to pristine cotton fabric, the residue rate of PB-loaded cotton fabric increases to 14.22%, demonstrating that PB is successfully deposited onto the cotton fabric. Its breaking force declines dramatically by 24.5%, whilst there is no obvious change in breaking elongation. The color fastness to washing is grade 4. These performances are compliant with the wearing criteria in China.

Key words: dip padding, cyanotype, wettability, process optimization, K/S value

摘要： 为了研究纺织品蓝晒工艺的最佳实验条件，用K/S值对比棉、亚麻和蚕丝织物蓝晒效果，通过感光剂扩散及蓝晒实验分析颜色差异的原因，得到润湿性对载体蓝晒效果影响显著，调控载体表面感光剂扩散性对蓝晒效果至关重要。通过优化浸轧-蓝晒工艺，研究感光剂浓度、混合比例、曝光时间等因素对蓝晒效果的影响；利用扫描电镜、热重仪表征蓝晒棉织物形貌变化以及温度-质量变化关系，探讨普鲁士蓝沉积机理。结果表明：浸轧-蓝晒法棉织物最佳工艺为感光剂浓度140 g/L、混合比例VA∶VB=1∶1、曝光时间20 min；蓝晒棉织物表面均匀沉积大量固体颗粒，平均直径约(0.42±0.16 ) μm，且热重分析残渣率提升至14.22%，表明普鲁士蓝经过浸轧-蓝晒工艺成功沉积于棉织物表面；蓝晒棉织物强力损失约24.5%，伸长率无明显变化，耐水洗牢度4级，满足服用要求。

关键词: 浸轧, 蓝晒, 润湿性, 工艺优化, K/S值