Table of Content

10 March 2023, Volume 31 Issue 2

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Visual perception and evaluation of autumn and winter knitwear fabrics based on online sales

ZHENG Liang, GAO Beibei, WEN Run

2023, 31(2):  1. 

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With the progress of technology, the business model of online shopping is booming. Vision and touch are basic sensory ways for human to obtain information. Visual perception plays an important role in online consumption. Women are the main group of online consumers. Among various categories of women's clothing, knitwear is an essential clothing item in autumn and winter. Therefore, the visual perception and evaluation of knitwear fabrics and sales pages are significant to short the distance between consumers and businesses, and improve shopping satisfaction and transaction efficiency. Eyetracking technology is carried to capture the process and information of people's visual attention by recording eye movement position, trajectory, fixation time and other indicators through an eye tracker, so as to analyze the characteristics or differences of individuals in cognitive process, physiology and behavior. However, the existing research does not involve the standardized setting of fabric display methods, and lacks analysis of relationship among fabric types, detail display and visual attention, as well as the discussion on the best presentation effect of individual clothing fabrics on online sales pages.

In this research, pure cotton and woolen knitwear of online sales for autumn and winter is taken as the experimental objects. Eye tracker and statistical analysis methods are introduced to explore the visual gaze law of consumers. Visual perception of consumers is analyzed and evaluated via the two dimensions of fabric and sales page based on subjective and objective analysis. The fixation rules of consumers are investigated on different fabrics and display methods such as tiling and details based on the data of eye tracking including the first entry time, fixation time, number of fixation points and fixation times. According to the subjective questionnaire, the relationship between the subject group structure and the fabric display mode is further explored in this research. Moreover, the tactile and visual perception scores of different fabrics in the aspects of warmth retention, softness, thickness, elasticity, and drape are also compared. In addition, through the subjective and objective synchronous method, it is clear and verified that consumers pay attention to different online display methods of knitwear. The innovation of this paper is to explore the visual rules and perception differences of consumers on typical fabrics and sales pages of women's autumn and winter knitwear online sales by quantifying fabric display details and using eye tracking technology. The research shows that the consumers' visual gaze follows the rule of being horizontally from center to left and then to right, and vertically being from top to bottom for online display fabric of pure cotton and wool. The tactile perception of each performance for the fabrics is higher than the visual perception, which indicates that the performance perception of online sale is lacked for consumers. For warmth sense of pure cotton fabric, softness and compactness sense of wool fabric, the visual score is close to the tactile perception, which could reflect the hand feeling to a certain extent. In addition, the softness, elasticity and drapability sense of the two fabrics could be easily obtained through visual perception, while the warmth and compactness sense that could reflect the characteristics of autumn and winter should be highlighted through auxiliary means when displayed online. Moreover, in terms of sales page, attention should be paid to the side display of knitwear and relevant text description should be provided preferably.

The research results are helpful for businesses and consumers to obtain accurate information transmission and feedback when businesses and consumers are displaying or shopping online, and provide theoretical basis and data reference for improving online trading volume.

Application progress of 3D virtual fitting technology in fashion design and performance evaluation

XUE Xiaoyu, HE Jiazhen, WANG Min

2023, 31(2):  12. 

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3D garment virtual fitting technology is a computer technology that can convert 2D garment patterns into 3D models. This technology has wide applications in the garment industry due to its advantages of high efficiency, low cost, and high simulation accuracy. Enterprises or research institutions can use it to quickly obtain garment fitting effects. Additionally, the performance of garments can be predicted and evaluated through this technology, thus greatly reducing the cost of garment development.

The 3D virtual fitting technology composition mainly includes three parts: 3D body measurement technology, 3D body modeling technology, and 3D garment modeling technology. These three parts together determine the final simulation effect. Data driving, machine learning, and other technologies enable computers to identify, segment, and process the data obtained from body measurements more efficiently. At the same time, many parametric human models and clothing generation models suitable for interactive scenarios have emerged.

The structure design, print design, and customercentered modular collaborative design method Based on 3D virtual fitting technology make the garment design and development progress more efficient. Using 3D virtual fitting technology to invert the 3D model of garments not only makes it possible to obtain 2D patterns of complex threedimensional shapes, but also precisely locate and divide prints on the patterns. The customercentered modular collaborative design mode employs modularized design. This mode provides a communication platform for customers, designers, and evaluation experts so that they can collaborate to complete the design and obtain a product that satisfies customers.

For apparel aesthetics evaluation, by building a virtual garment drape test platform based on 3D virtual fitting technology, a rapid evaluation of garment drapability can be achieved. In the garment fit evaluation area, studies have used the key pressure points of virtual garments and body dimensions obtained through 3D virtual fitting technology as input data to train a neural networkbased garment fit prediction model. The prediction accuracy is influenced by the type and scale of the input parameters and model algorithm. For garment comfort evaluation, studies mainly focus on pressure comfort evaluation, and its accuracy is influenced by factors such as the sampling method, number of key points, and state of wearers. In addition, the air layer distribution under the garment obtained through 3D virtual fitting technology can also be used to evaluate the thermal and moisture comfort of garments, but the overall accuracy is not high enough.

In the postepidemic era, 3D virtual fitting technology faces corresponding challenges while having broad application prospects. In the future, it is necessary to standardize and unify the parameters of virtual fabrics. When evaluating garments, researchers should build virtual models with human soft tissue characteristics in specific scenarios and take the physical characteristics of garment parts into account. In addition, through the introduction of artificial intelligence, deep learning, and other technologies, it is possible to optimize and realize automatic sampling. Then, we build a whole performance evaluation model for virtual garments to improve evaluation accuracy and efficiency.

Clothing image classification algorithm based on improved ShuffleNet v1

ZENG Huafu, YANG Jie, LI Linhong

2023, 31(2):  23. 

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In recent years, with the development of the Internet economy, compared with offline sales of clothing, online shopping has broken the time and geographical restrictions, and has gradually become one of the mainstream consumption methods with distinctive features such as various categories and affordable prices. According to the China E Commerce Report 2021 released by the Ministry of Commerce of the People's Republic of China, in 2021, the national online retail witnessed rapid growth, with the online retail volume reaching 13.09 trillion yuan, of which footwear and clothing products account for the largest proportion, reaching 22.94%. With the increasing demand for clothing, consumers '  requirements for clothing retrieval methods are also increasing. Consumers hope to retrieve more accurate results based on their own needs and styles. Therefore, the classification of clothing needs to be meticulous and accurate.
To promote the accurate integration of clothing retrieval results of e commerce platforms and consumer demand, it is necessary to further enrich the clothing retrieval methods of e commerce platforms. Aiming at the problem of large volume and lack of fine classification of garment image classification models, a garment image classification algorithm based on improved ShuffleNet v1 is proposed. Based on ShuffleNet v1, the algorithm reduces the computational load of the model by optimizing the number of module stacks and network layer channels to meet the real time requirements of the algorithm. Furthermore, the channel and spatial attention module is embedded to make the model focus on important feature information and suppress useless feature information. Finally, the asymmetric multi scale feature fusion module is designed to enhance the feature extraction ability of the model. The results show that the accuracy of the proposed algorithm in the self built shirt and clothing dataset is 88.31%, which is 2.77%, 3.69%, 1.98% and 0.62% higher than that of ShuffleNet v1, ShuffleNet v2, MobileNet v2 and ResNet50 models respectively. The proposed algorithm has also achieved good results in some datasets of DeepFashion, verifying the effectiveness and universality of the proposed algorithm. Compared with the basic model, the parameters of the proposed model are only 0.73M, and the parameters of the model are reduced by about 60%, which improves the accuracy and reasoning speed of the model.
This paper proposes an algorithm to achieve high precision and less time consuming shirt clothing classification, which has practical application value for helping merchants to subdivide clothing in the early stage. At the same time, it has good academic significance and reference value for the research of similar fine classification and lightweight problems. However, due to the limitation of the dataset, only a few categories of shirts such as stripes, lattices and spots are supported. In real life, a certain type of clothing has different forms and more categories. How to collect effective data or expand datasets is a direction worth exploring in the future.




Research progress of clothing image generation based on Generative Adversarial Networks

SHI Qian, LUO Ronglei

2023, 31(2):  36. 

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The depth generation model mainly includes Deep Belief Network (DBN), Variational SelfEncoder (VAE) and Generative Adversarial Network (GAN). GAN, as a popular indepth learning framework in recent years, constructs two networks G and D which are mutually antagonistic and game, so that they can achieve Nash equilibrium through continuous iterative training and then realize the automatic generation of images. GAN can be applied in many fields, including semisupervised learning, sequence data generation, image processing, domain adaptation, etc. The image processing field can be subdivided into multiple scenes, such as image generation, image superresolution, image style transformation, object transformation and object detection. The most widely used and successful part of GAN in image processing is image generation. Clothing image generation based on 5G, big data, depth learning and other technologies can effectively promote the digital development process of apparel ecommerce.
Conditional Generative Adversarial Network (CGAN) implements constraints on sample generation by adding constraint condition Y to GAN. CGAN can direct the generator to synthesize data in a directional way against expected samples. Therefore, CGAN is an effective model to realize automatic generation of clothing images that meet specific needs. During the training, the generator learns to generate realistic samples matching the labels of the training data set, and the discriminator learns to match the correct labels for the identified real samples. At present, the public clothing data sets that can be applied to clothing image generation mainly include FashionMNIST, Deep Fashion, Fashion AI, etc. According to the data morphology classification of the input model and the output model, the main forms of CGAN implementation in the clothing field are TexttoImage, ImagetoImage and ImagetoVideo. The three data synthesis forms respectively contain various derived GAN models, which correspond to different clothing generation application scenarios. TexttoImage aims to generate the required clothing image based on the given description text, which can be specifically applied to a given model change, clothing texture rendering, character pose and clothing attribute generation, clothing category and background classification; ImagetoImage is mostly applied in clothing design, such as clothing pattern design, clothing image conversion (from sketch to cartoon clothing, model to dress), style transfer, virtual fitting, fashion trend forecast, etc.; ImagetoVideo is usually applied to facial expression video frame prediction, anonymous model video generation, virtual fitting and other scenes.
In recent years, research on GANapplied clothing image generation industry is mostly distributed in the field of ecommerce, including automatic generation of clothing banner advertisements, personalized clothing recommendation system, clothing and pattern design, virtual fitting towards video presentation, etc., which greatly enables the upgrading of related digital clothing industry. However, the industry is still facing the problems of single utility of generation model, narrow application of clothing data set and lack of objective and unified criteria for generation evaluation. The research in the future will focus on the research and development of integrated multimodal generation model, the collection of largescale clothing data sets, and the development of objective criteria for clothing image generation and evaluation.

Automatic identification of male suit sleeve drawback categories based on pleated feature parameters

TUO Wu, HAO Xiaoxiao, GUO Xin, LIU Yongliang, CHEN Qian

2023, 31(2):  47. 

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Computer image processing technology is more and more widely used in the field of textiles and garments. The technology can detect and extract the target information required in the image, and the cross application of textile and garment promotes the development of intelligent detection technology in the production process, such as fabric defect detection and sewing flatness detection, improving the production efficiency. However, the intelligent detection technology of clothing appearance defects has developed slowly, mainly relying on experienced patternmakers to judge the types of defects, which is undoubtedly not conducive to the improvement of production efficiency. Therefore, the application of image processing technology in clothing appearance inspection, avoiding subjective accidents, enhancing the objectivity of judgment results, and reducing the demand for manpower and material resources are urgent problems for clothing enterprises.
In order to realize the automatic identification of clothing appearance defect types, we took the dress images of men〖WT《Times New Roman》〗'〖WT〗〖WT5BZ〗〖HT5SS〗s suit sleeves as the research object, and proposed a discrimination method combining image processing technology and BP neural network technology. Firstly, we analyzed the visual influencing factors of sleeve defect dress images, dissected the appearance fold characteristics of some sleeve defect types, and determined the parameters for quantifying sleeve defect folds. Then, with the help of image processing software MATLAB, we extracted the fold parameters of sleeve defect dress image samples, used the image grayscale, grayscale enhancement, image threshold segmentation set image binarization and other technologies to preprocess the dress image of the defect map, and extracted the parameters such as fold width and fold depth based on the grayscale curve chart, and on the basis of the processed binarization diagram, we extracted the slope of the fold direction of the parameters on the fold trend, and extracted the fold parameters of four types of defects in 52 samples. Finally, we wrote the program of BP neural network to identify the drawback model. 70% of the data was used as the training set and 30% was input to the BP neural network training as the test set. The input was the extracted three fold parameters, and the output was an encoded number representing the type of defects. It is verified that the model has high accuracy and stability, can identify the types of sleeve defects, and realize the automatic judgment of sleeve appearance defects.
The relationship between different sleeve defect types and their corresponding appearance folds provides enlightenment for the development of intelligent detection technology for clothing appearance quality, and the types of clothing appearance defects can be automatically determined by using image processing technology to to extract the characteristic parameters of different appearance folds and combining with the neural network model. The research results can provide reference guidance for the development of clothing appearance quality inspection technology.


Finite element modeling of three dimensional contact pressure of ankle-compression stockings

HAN Linyuan, LIAN Wanting, YANG Yunchu

2023, 31(2):  55. 

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Varicose veins of the lower extremities are a common and frequentlyoccurring disease in clinical practice. Lower extremity venous diseases affect 25%－40% of women and 10%－20% of men worldwide. With the improvement of medical theory and application technology, the treatment methods and techniques of lower extremity venous diseases have been continuously improved. Compression therapy has a long history in the treatment of varicose veins. Pressure socks are widely used in the treatment of varicose veins. The pressure socks are designed in a progressive segmented manner, and the pressure applied to the leg is gradually reduced from the ankle to the thigh. Due to the different shapes and sizes of human legs, the pressure distribution of different individuals is different. Therefore, it is particularly important to detect the pressure distribution of the actual human body wearing medical socks. At present, the finite element analysis method is widely used in pressure analysis. However, the existing pressure simulation models are mostly fixed single models, which cannot accurately change the thickness according to the circumference of the tester's test site, and cannot easily simulate multiple sets of pressure values under different circumferences according to the leg size.

In orderto simulate the exact pressure distribution exerted by compression stockings on ankles with different girths, an anklecompression stocking simulation model based on finite element software was proposed to simulate the pressure exerted by compression stockings on human ankles with different girths. Firstly, the initial shape and size of ankle were obtained by threedimensional human body scanning, and the geometric model of anklepressure sock was established. Then, the material density, elastic modulus and Poisson's ratio of fabrics at ankle were tested and calculated, and the material models of grade I, grade II and grade III compression stockings and ankle were established. On this basis, the finite element software was used to mesh and establish the contact force simulation model of medical socks and legs. From the simulation results, the simulated pressure values of the anterior and posterior two points of the ankle were obtained, and the contact pressure of the human body after wearing the pressure socks was tested. The results show that the pressure value of the anterior part of the ankle is always greater than that of the posterior part. When people wear different grades of compression stockings, the pressure increases with the increase of the grade of compression stockings. When people wear the same grade of compression stockings, the pressure value of the ankle increases with the increase of the circumference of the ankle, which is linearly distributed. The finite element model is reasonable and effective.

While establishing an effective finite element pressure simulation model, this study provides a new idea for the research of compression stockings from the perspective of the physical and mechanical properties of knitted fabrics.Giving play to the potential of finite element analysis technology in the gradient compression stockings research and application can greatly save product development time and reduce development costs. In practical applications, this study can be used for personal customization of pressure socks, so that the pressure value of each test product conforms to the comfort range of human body, and provides reference for the development and testing of pressure socks products and sportswear protection products, which is conducive to better measurement of clothing pressure.

Numerical simulation of mixing performance of dispersed phase in a static mixer

ZHU Xin, L Wangyang, WANG Gangqiang

2023, 31(2):  63. 

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Spinning is a process in which polymers are extruded in a certain form to form chemical fibers, which are then processed to make textiles commonly used in daily life. In the process of melt spinning, it is usually necessary to add functional granules into the melted polymer melt, and use a static mixer to improve the mixing effect between the melt quality and dispersed phase particles, so as to prepare functional fiber materials. However, in the actual production process, the dispersion mixing of functional particulate matter is always a difficult problem, particulate matter tends to agglomerate within the polymer melt, and the measurement process of the experiment is complex. Therefore, improving the spinnability of the polymer melt during the spinning process and reducing the agglomeration of particles within the fiber can effectively improve the functionality of the fiber material. In order to solve the problem of melt quality degradation and mixing performance deterioration caused by online particle addition during melt spinning, the finite element method (FEM) was used to model the geometry, mesh, set material parameters and boundary conditions, and calculate the solution for static mixers with different structures and process parameters, and the post processing results and the pressure drop curve in the flow direction were obtained. Meanwhile, in order to quantitatively characterize its mixing performance, the tracer particle technique was used for analysis, and the cumulative probability functions of separation scale, residence time distribution, and maximum shear stress were obtained by solving the fourthorder RungeKutta algorithm, and they were statistically analyzed. The analysis results show that when the aspect ratio is increased from 1 to 1.75, the pressure drop in the pipe rises from 0.52 MPa to 0.62 Mpa, the flow resistance increases, the decreasing speed of the separation scale becomes smaller, but the difference at the outlet is not significant, the peak of residence time gradually decreases, the axial mixing effect is better, the probability of the maximum shear stress greater than 5 kPa is raised to 78%, and the degree of agglomeration of the dispersed phase is reduced. The inlet flow rate is increased from 2×10-5 m3s to 8×10 -5 m3 s, the pressure drop of the melt increases from 0.52 MPa to 2.00 MPa, the flow resistance increases, the separation scale changes little, the peak of the residence time becomes higher, the axial mixing effect is worse, the probability of the maximum shear stress greater than 10 kPa reaches 83%, and the degree of agglomeration of the dispersed phase decreases. The innovation is reflected in the use of finite element method instead of experimental process, which significantly reduces the measurement difficulties and human errors due to the complexity of the experiment, reduces its cost and cycle, and can play a guiding role in the actual production process.

Numerical simulation of air flow field in the inner passage of melt blowing dual slot die

JIANG Yingying, CHEN Ting

2023, 31(2):  72-79. 

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Retention behavior and thermodynamic properties of phthalic acid isomers by RPLC

ZHANG Yutang, CHEN Haixiang, LI Xiaolian, LI Chong, LANG Qiaowen

2023, 31(2):  80. 

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Polyethylene terephthalate (PET), commonly known as polyester, is a condensation of terephthalic acid (TPA) and ethylene glycol (EG). In the process of PET production and processing, IPA and PA are widely used as important additives. In the process of production and use, the residual or degraded phthalic acid substances will seriously harm human health if they accidentally enter the human body. At home and abroad, no matter as packaging materials for food and medicine, or as fabrics for underwear, there are corresponding national standards for the residual or migratory amount of TPA, IPA and PA. Therefore, in the process of analysis and detection, it is necessary to be able to quickly separate the three and accurately quantify them.

Reversed phase liquid chromatography (RPLC) has been widely used in chromatographic analysis because of its advantages such as small sample size, good separation and excellent repeatability. In order to further optimize the separation effect of benzoic acid isomers in liquid chromatography, we studied the chromatographic retention behavior of benzoic acid isomers in C18 stationary phase with different proportions of mobile phase and different temperatures using methanol aqueous solution as the mixed mobile phase, and calculated the thermodynamic parameters of the interaction between benzoic acid isomers and stationary phase. The stationary phase was C18 column in RPLC, and the mobile phase was 15%~45% methanol aqueous solution. It was found that the Van't Hoff curve and the lnk and Ψ had a good linear relationship in the temperature range of 10 to 50 ℃. In the process of binding with C18 column fixation, the binding mechanism did not change, and the retention behavior of terephthalic acid isomers controlled by mobile phase composition and column temperature was continuous and stable. Both ΔH0 and ΔS0 are negative values, indicating that the benzoic acid isomers are bound, the degree of freedom decreases, and energy is released during the process of C18 column fixation. Under the same methanol ratio, ΔH0 and ΔS0 values of TPA and IPA are close to and greater than PA, indicating that the binding energy of TPA and IPA with C18 column is greater than PA and decreases with the increase of methanol ratio.

The position difference of PA, TPA and IPA3 isomer dicarboxylate on the benzene ring can be obviously reflected in RPLC retention behavior. Better separation effect and accurate quantification can be obtained by adjusting the proportion of mobile phase and column temperature. The study of its retention behavior and thermodynamic properties can provide an effective method for the separation of other types of isomers, and also provide basic data for analysis tasks such as polyester degradation recovery, ecological environmental protection, and food contact material migration.

 

Research on the solid waste identification methods of imported down and feather

2023, 31(2):  86. 

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In recent years, due to the impact of H7N9 avian influenza, the raw materials of down and feather products are in short supply, and the price is soaring. Therefore, more and more down and feather products are imported from Egypt, Vietnam, Pakistan and other countries and Taiwan of China for further processing at home. However, according to the current inspection at the port, the quality of imported down and feather is not optimistic. Although some are imported under the names of "washed duck feather" and "washed duck down", the actual samples are obviously dirty, smelly and with poor quality. After importing down and feather at a relatively low price, import enterprises can further wash and process it in China, which will not only destroy China's ecological environment, waste water resources, but also damage people's health. At present, the identification of solid waste is mainly based on GB 34330—2017 Identification Standards for Solid Wastes General Rules, but this standard is a general standard, lacking targeted operational procedures and detection methods. The five industrial standards of SNT 5431—2022 Methods for Identification of Imported Solid WastesTextile Raw Material and Products formulated by the General Administration of Customs of People's Republic of China include five parts: Part 1: General Rules; Part 2: Yarn; Part 3: Fabric; Part 4: Leather and Fur; Part 5: Fiber. However, corresponding identification standards have not been issued for down and feather products, and down and feather products are different from the four textile raw materials and products involved in the above standards in terms of sources, properties, processing methods, risk points, etc. The degree of initial processing of samples varies greatly, which brings great difficulties to the identification work.

In order to unify the identification criteria, the representative down and feather cases under supervision of the port are studied by analyzing the sensory, impurity, odor, turbidity, oxygen number, fat and oil content, pathogenic bacteria and other performance indexes according to China's laws and regulations, national standards and relevant requirements of the General Administration of Customs. Besides, the origin and the expected use of the samples are analyzed, and together with the testing indexes, the solid waste characteristics of the samples are comprehensively discussed. The identification method with "appearance + physical and chemical indexes + pathogenic bacteria" as identification elements and "animal organs and skin tissues" as characteristic risk factors is determined, the characteristics of down and feather judged as solid waste are summarized, and the issuing method of identification conclusion under different circumstances is given.

This paper discusses the attribute identification methods and criteria of imported down and feather solid waste based on the cases of port supervision, providing reference for port supervision, as well as providing technical support for China to further crack down on the entry of "foreign waste" and ensure the security of its borders.

Preparation and property of betaine type micelle photochromic hydrogels

GAO Zhenghao, ZHOU Yingxue

2023, 31(2):  92. 

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Hydrogels, composed of crosslinked macromolecules and water, can be formed by chemical or physical interactions and can absorb many times as much water as they contain. The soft and moist properties of the hydrogel are similar to those of biological tissue, and it can respond to a wide range of external stimuli. Due to its extremely high water content and good biocompatibility, the hydrogel has shown broad application prospects in sensors, soft robots, flexible electronics, drug delivery and tissue engineering. Photochromic materials, which can undergo significant and reversible color changes under certain light conditions, have attracted many important studies in the fields of storage, anticounterfeiting, display, and optical switching. Currently, the structurefunction relationship among various photochromic hydrogels has gained a lot of attention. It is still challenging to study the combination of traditional photochromic materials with hydrogels. At the same time, the high cost and complex preparation technology of some photochromic materials are also urgent problems to be solved in the future development of related functional materials. The preparation method of photochromic soft materials with low cost, simple process and good chemical stability is sought to provide new design ideas for a new generation of flexible and intelligent colorchanging materials.

In order to prepare highstrength hydrogels with photochromic properties, acrylamide (AAM) was used as the main monomer of the networks, and dodecyl dimethyl betaine (BS12) was used as a surfactant. The mechanical properties of photochromic hydrogels were enhanced by chemical crosslinking and hydrophobic association through the combination of BS12 rich in positive charges and photochromic ammonium molybdate ［(NH4)6Mo7O24 ·4H2O］. The micelles were analyzed by transmission electron microscopy (TEM) and dynamic light scattering (DLS) laser particle size analyzer, and the absorbance, transparency, and mechanical properties of photochromic hydrogels were measured by UVvis and universal testing machine. The results showed that the hydrogel exhibits high transparency and can change color under the irradiation of UV light for only two min, and the fading process can be easily achieved in the air environment. The tensile strength of hydrogels can reach 215 kPa and the fracture elongation can reach 1480%. After five stretching cycles, the lost energy is reduced by about 46%, and the dissipation energy remains unchanged.

The photochromic hydrogel is envisioned as potentially being applied as flexible and stretchable devices for visual display and storage. The photochromic hydrogel has the potential to be a choice for wearable flexible devices, artificial intelligence systems, and erasable optical displays. It might be thought of as a promising candidate for wearable flexible devices, artificial intelligence systems, and erasable optical displays. Therefore, the strategy for designing a soft photochromic material would open the next generation of flexible and stretchable devices.

The high speed impact response of three dimensional braided and angle interlock composites

ZHU Dan , ZHANG Qingju, LIU Shengkai

2023, 31(2):  101. 

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Threedimensional (3D) textile composites with threedimensional fabrics as the reinforcing phase and the presence of reinforcing yarn in the thickness direction overcome the shortcomings of traditional laminated composites with poor interlaminar bonding and easy delamination damage, and have unique advantages such as high specific strength, high specific independence, excellent designability, impact resistance and fatigue fracture resistance. These materials are currently receiving increasing attention in the field of impact protection such as aerospace and rail transportation. However, the study of structural effects, strain rate effects and characterization of damage processes during high speed impact loading of 3D textile structural composites is still immature and needs to be further explored so as to design 3D textile structural composites with better impact resistance.

In order to investigate the strain rate effect and structural effect of threedimensional textile structural composites under highspeed impact, we prepared the 3D braided and 3D angleinterlock carbon fiberreinforced epoxy composites using vacuumassisted resin transfer molding process. The stressstrain curves and progressive damage processes of 3D braided and 3D angleinterlock composites during highspeed impact were recorded by a modified separated Hopkinson compression bar system and highspeed photography system. On this basis, the article investigates the structural and strain rate effects of the highspeed impact performance the progressive damage process of 3D structural composites. The results show that both braided and angleinterlock composites have strain rate effect under highspeed impact, and both show shear damage, but the braided composites show obvious ductile damage while the angleinterlock composites show obvious brittle damage. Because of the tightly interwoven fiber bundles inside the braided composites, they can still withstand certain loads and maintain structural integrity after damage, so the 3D woven composites have better impact resistance than the 3D angleinterlock composites.

During high speed impact, there are obvious structural and strain rate effects on the high speed impact performance and the progressive damage behavior of 3D textile structure reinforced composites. Exploring the high speed impact response of different 3D textile structure composites can provide insight into the design of composite materials for aerospace and rail transportation, expand the application fields of 3D textile structure composites, and promote the development of material design for aerospace and rail transportation protection in China.

Viscoelastic Poisson's ratio of nonwovens

XIA Tengteng, GE Chenyong, LI Jian, LI Hongguang, LI Yong

2023, 31(2):  107. 

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The nonwoven is widely used in many industries and occupies a large proportion in the textile industry for its excellent performance, low cost and diversified types,. With the utilization of nonwovens in various industries, the output and usage have increased year by year. Therefore, in order to promote the use of nonwovens, it is necessary to study the mechanical properties of nonwovens. It can be found from the tensile test curve that all kinds of nonwovens have typical viscoelastic properties. Poisson's ratio, as one of the important indexes to measure the mechanical properties of materials, has been concerned and studied by many scholars, and some of them have studied the viscoelastic Poisson's ratio of materials. However, most studies focus on the viscoelastic Poisson's ratio of solid propellants, epoxy resins, and other materials. The research on textile materials has not been reported, but it has great research value.

The conventional polypropylene (PP) meltblown nonwoven was selected as the object, the viscoelastic mechanical behavior of the nonwoven was tested, and its viscoelastic Poisson's ratio was accurately calculated. Based on the theory of viscoelastic mechanics, combined with Laplace transform and creep stress conditions, the exact expression of viscoelastic Poisson's ratio was calculated by transverse strain (under creep conditions) and relaxation modulus. The internal fibers of nonwovens are disordered and thin, so they can be regarded as isotropic materials (ignoring the stress and strain in the thickness direction), and only the twodimensional planar Poisson's ratio is studied. The creep and relaxation experiments of nonwovens were carried out according to the standard GBT 23218.3—2010, and the curves of transverse strain and relaxation modulus were obtained and fitted into the 6thorder Prony series. The Prony series of transverse strain and relaxation modulus were substituted into the expression of viscoelastic Poisson's ratio, and the timevarying curve of viscoelastic Poisson's ratio of nonwovens under creep condition was calculated by using 1stOpt software. In this study, the calculation method of viscoelastic Poisson's ratio was introduced into textile materials, and the viscoelastic Poisson's ratio of the selected nonwoven was analyzed and measured. It is found that as the loading time increases, the viscoelastic Poisson's ratio of the material gradually increases and tends to be constant. The viscoelastic Poisson's ratio approach value of the nonwoven selected in this paper is close to 0.25, which is in line with the Poisson's ratio range of conventional materials and is close to the value of conventional elastic Poisson's ratio in related research.

The method can effectively determine the viscoelastic Poisson's ratio of nonwovens, with simple operation and reliable results, which can provide reference for the determination of Poisson's ratio of other textile materials.. The accurate determination of viscoelastic Poisson's ratio also provides a reference value for the calculation of mechanical indexes involved in the subsequent production and processing of textile materials.

Preparation of static electrical assistant PET PVDF woven structural filter with ultralow pressure drop and its air filtration properties

ZHAI Wen, HAN Shijiao, FAN Weisi, LU Lulu, LI Yuan, JIANG Qiuran

2023, 31(2):  112. 

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With the rapid development of industry, air pollution has gradually become a serious threat to public health. Fine particulate matter, such as PM  2.5 , is the main component of air pollutants and also the main carrier of other types of air pollutants. The efficient filtration technology of indoor fine particulate matter has received increasing attention. The traditional filtration technology mainly includes mechanical filtration and electrostatic assisted filtration. The improvement of mechanical filtration efficiency based on physical interception effect mainly depends on the increase in the thickness and fiber density of filters, but provokes the elevation of filtration resistance and energy consumption. Thereby, it is difficult to achieve high filtration efficiency while maintaining the low pressure drop. The electrostatic assisted filtration system includes electrostatic precipitator and electret filtration system. The removal of particulate matter depends on the electrostatic interaction between the fine particulate matter and filter material, which can greatly reduce the resistance to air. However, the traditional electrostatic precipitator shows low efficiency in capturing fine particulate matter, and the electret filtration system has limited capability to carry sufficient charges for long time serving, and the decay in charges often occurs. Therefore, the development of long term, stable, highly efficient and low resistant filtration systems has long been an obstacle in the field of air filtration. Our team has developed an electrostatic assisted filtration system in the early stage. Using a high voltage power supply, the filtration system maintains stable charge loading during the whole serving life and establishes a strong electrostatic field which is able to charge fine particles and remove them through electrostatic interaction. This system can overcome the above mentioned disadvantages of the traditional electrostatic filtration systems. However, the charging efficiency is still limited. The difficulty in further elevation of the filter charging capacity thwarts the improvement of the filtration efficiency. 

To combine the electrical conductivity and storage capabilities, the current study first constructed a polydopamine binding layer and a silver conductive layer by in situ chemical reaction on the super loose woven polyethylene terephthalate (PET) substrate, and then constructed the micro nano structure polyvinylidene fluoride (PVDF) electrical storage layer by using electrostatic spraying technology. This study successfully prepared a super loose electrostatic loaded filter system by controlling the adhesion amount and structure of PVDF on the substrate through different spraying parameters, while retained the super loose woven structure of the substrate fabric. We systematically characterized the basic properties of the PVDF attached filters, including surface morphology, thickness, mechanical properties, electrical properties and air permeability, and investigated the filtration performance and the particle distribution with different electrostatic voltage supplies. The filtration mechanism was deduced with the simulation of the electric fields. 

The results proved that electrostatic spraying concentration and spraying duration could adjust the loading amount of PVDF and their accumulation morphology. The filters coated with 3 % PVDF for 3 min showed uniform high loading of PVDF without fibrous structure. The PVDF amount exerted limited influence on the thickness, surface specific resistance, breaking strength, air permeability and pressure drop of the filters, but displayed significant effects on the filtration efficiency and quality factor of PM  2.5 . By raising the PVDF amount from 0 to 19.2 μgcm 2, the filtration efficiency could be enhanced from 42.5 % to 67 % at a low voltage (10 kV), and from 67.02 % to 94.29 % at a high voltage (40 kV), while still maintained an ultra low pressure drop of 6.7 Pa. Hence, the quality factor was able to reach 0.43 Pa  -1 . The active electrostatic assisted filtration system loaded with PVDF could not only achieve a high filtration efficiency at an ultra low pressure drop, but also reduce the amount of dust accumulation on the filter surface. The possible reason might be the existence of electrostatic repulsion. 

The design of this system was based on the combination of electrical conductivity and storage. PVDF electrical storage layer was constructed on conductive substrates to incorporate the advantages of the conductive and the electrical storage materials. This design could achieve further enhancement in filtration performance by establishing more stable, stronger electrostatic field with larger coverage area. 

In this work, we further improved the performance of woven filters with active electrostatic charging by loading PVDF. This work might promote the development of ultra low resistance woven filters, and provide inspiration for the future development of the core filter design with low carbon emission. This filter system has the potential to be applied for vehicle air cleaning, air conditioner and central ventilation system. Meanwhile, via the observation of dust accumulation and electric field simulation analysis, the filtration mechanism of the active electrostatic assisted air filtration system was revealed, which provided a theoretical foundation for the further development of filtration systems with high efficiency and low resistance.

Influence of wrapping on the breaking strength of air jet vortex spinning coarse count yarns

LUO Caihong, WANG Jing'an, GAO Weidong

2023, 31(2):  122. 

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With the rapid development of new spinning technology, air jet vortex spinning occupies an important position in the spinning field for its advantages of high spinning speed, high efficiency and short process. In recent years, the continuous innovation of air jet vortex spinning technology has broken through the bottleneck of many yarn varieties. The variety of yarns is becoming increasingly abundant, and the linear density tends to be fine and thick. Among yarns, the air jet vortex spinning coarse count yarn is mainly used in industrial textiles, with a wide selection of raw materials. Combined with the advantages of air jet vortex spinning, it shows a good application prospect. However, the spinning of coarse count yarns with air jet vortex spinning is still faced with many problems. Compared with the medium count yarn with air jet vortex spinning, the coarse count yarn has the problems of difficult yarn formation, weak wrapping ring, insufficient breaking strength, etc. Therefore, the 59.1 tex polyester air jet vortex spinning coarse count yarn is studied in this paper, and the wrapping effect is quantified to solve the problem of low breaking strength of the air jet vortex spinning coarse count yarn.

In order to improve the breaking strength of the air jet vortex spinning coarse count yarn, based on the yarn structure and spinning mechanism of air jet vortex spinning, starting from the wrapping effect, the wrapping effect is characterized, and the wrapping coefficient, a parameter for quantifying the wrapping effect, is proposed. The calculation formula of the wrapping coefficient is established, the area of the wrapped fiber and the total area of yarns in the air jet vortex spinning yarn image are extracted, and the yarn wrapping coefficient is calculated. On this basis, the relationship between the yarn wrapping coefficient and breaking strength is analyzed, and the functional relationship model between breaking strength and the wrapping coefficient is established. Based on this model, the process improvement is guided, the spinning speed and nozzle pressure of air jet vortex spinning are optimized, and the optimal process optimization parameters of yarn breaking strength are finally obtained by using the response surface analysis method. It is found that the breaking strength of the yarn increases with the increase of the wrapping coefficient, and the poor wrapping effect is the main reason for the deterioration of the breaking strength of the air jet vortex spinning yarn. The optimized spinning process involve the following parameters: a spinning speed of 430 m min and the nozzle pressure of 0.57 MPa. The wrapping coefficient is 0.502, and the breaking strength can reach 30.75 cN tex. According to the standard of polyester plain yarns in FZ T 12019—2018 Polyester Fiber Grey Yarn, the breaking strength grade of the yarn has been improved from the second grade to the first grade, with remarkable improvement effect.

In production practice, the wrapping level of yarns can be compared by calculating the wrapping coefficient proposed in this paper, and according to the established relationship model between the breaking strength and wrapping effect, the wrapping coefficient level whose performance meets the product requirements can be established, and then the process plan can be adjusted to achieve the goal of ensuring the performance of the spun coarse yarn and improving the production efficiency. Further research work can focus on the relationship model between the breaking strength and wrapping coefficient, which is suitable for more fiber raw materials and blending proportion.

Research on spinning and property of composite electro conductive yarns comprising metal filaments

TAO Lizhen, ZHOU Suolin, LIAO Lanlan

2023, 31(2):  130. 

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The metal filaments have the good properties of conductivity, thermal conductivity and electromagnetic shielding. The fineness of the metal filaments used in textiles is generally 20~80 μm. The strength and machinability of the metal filaments used alone generally cannot meet the requirements. The composite processing of the metal filaments can improve their performance and expand their application field.

To test and compare properties of different metal filaments applied to textiles, we select the copper magnesium alloy filament, metal copper filament and stainless steel filament, and develop composite electro conductive yarns comprising metal filaments by Sirofil and Siro spinning technologies. The morphological characteristics of metal filaments and composite yarns are observed by the fiber fineness analyzer and stereo microscope. The tensile mechanical properties of different composite yarns are tested and analyzed with an electronic filament strength tester. The tensile property of constant elongation cyclic drawing is tested by cycling for 50 times under the conditions of 10 second tensile stop, 10 second relaxation stop and 1%, 2% and 3% of constant elongation. The tensile property of constant load cyclic drawing is tested by cycling for 50 times under the conditions of 10 second tensile stop, 10 second relaxation stop and 20, 50, 80 and 100 cN of constant load. To test the electric resistance of metal filaments and composite yarns with a digital multimeter, so as to measure the electrothermal properties of the composite electro conductive yarns, 10 cm×10 cm electro conductive yarn sample is pasted on the flame resistant bakelite board in S shape, and the voltages of 3, 6, 9, and 12 V are applied respectively. Under different load voltages, the temperature change of the sample is recorded with an infrared imager within 5 minutes.

It can be concluded that the selected metal filaments have uniform fineness and good spinnability, and the metal composite conductive yarn have standard mechanical performance and excellent electricthermal performance. Referring to the product standard FZT 12071 2021 Electro Conductive Yarn, the breaking strengths of the yarns meet the corresponding technical requirements, and the conductivity properties reach its standard of Class A. All composite electro conductive yarns have excellent properties of constant elongation cyclic drawing and constant load cyclic drawing. The electrothermal performance of copper magnesium alloy filament yarns and metal copper composite yarns is better than that of stainless steel filament yarns. The higher the load voltage is, the higher the temperature of the sample is, and the faster the heating speed is. When the voltage is 12 V, the equilibrium temperatures of cottoncopper Sirofil covered yarn and Siro spun yarn are 48.6℃ and 46.7℃ respectively, and the equilibrium temperatures of cottoncopper magnesium Sirofil covered yarn and cottoncopper magnesium Siro spun yarn are 40.9℃ and 35.6℃ respectively.

In the future, based on the research and development of functional textiles made of stainless filaments by predecessors, we can develop the functional textiles such as electric heating fabrics and intelligent wearable products using the excellent mechanical properties and better electrothermal properties of copper magnesium alloy filament and metal copper filament composite yarns.

Construction and performance of GO QAScotton blended yarn

QI Qinghuan, LIAO Huanru, ZHANG Qing, SHI Xiaohan, ZHOU Yuman

2023, 31(2):  139. 

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Antibacterial textiles are the first barrier for human body to resist external bacteria and play an important role in improving personal hygiene environment and ensuring human health. Especially after the outbreak of COVID 19 in 2020, antibacterial textiles are favored by more and more people because they can inhibit the propagation of microorganisms, avoid cross infection of bacteria, and prevent the spread of diseases, thus resulting in a substantial increase in demand. As the yarn is the basic component of textiles, it is a simple and effective way to directly construct antibacterial textiles through antibacterial yarns. However, the processing methods of antibacterial yarns widely used in industry have many problems, such as heavy pollution, high energy consumption and unstable antibacterial performance. Therefore, it is of great research value to further develop the green processing method of antibacterial yarns and improve the yarns' antibacterial property.

In view of the existing problems of antibacterial yarns and their processing methods, a new method for fabricating antibacterial blended yarns embedded in graphene is proposed in this paper from the perspective of physical modification based on the principle of electro spraying. Namely, an organic silicon quaternary ammonium salt (QAS) is first grafted onto graphene oxide by coupling reaction to synthesize nano composite antimicrobial agents (GO QAS), in which QAS and GO are respectively used as main antibacterial substance and functional modification carrier. Then, GO QASs are uniformly sprayed onto the cotton web by electrostatic action to form a GO QAScotton hybrid web. Finally, the GO QAScotton hybrid web is aggregated and twisted into a GO QAScotton blended yarn with antibacterial function. The morphology and chemical structure of GO QAS antibacterial agent are characterized by scanning electron microscope, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and X ray photoelectron spectroscopy. The distribution rule and existing form of GO QAS antibacterial agent in yarn are analyzed by morphology observation. The mechanical property of GO QAScotton blended yarn is tested through a strength tester. The antibacterial properties of GO QAScotton blended yarns are researched by antibacterial experiments. The results show that the GO QAS antibacterial agent has good dispersibility and can be sprayed evenly on the surface of the cotton web. Moreover, the GO QAScotton blended yarn obtained by further agglomerating and twisting the composite web shows excellent yarn structure and mechanical property. In the GO QAScotton blended yarn, the GO QAS antibacterial agent is wrapped on the surface of cotton fibers or embedded in the middle of the fibers. In addition, the GO QAS antibacterial agent is evenly distributed from the inside to the outside of the yarn. Benefited by the distribution of GO QAS antibacterial agents in the yarn, the GO QAScotton blended yarn shows high antibacterial activity against E.coli and S.aureus, which is greater than 99.99%.

Compared with the reported processing methods of antibacterial yarns, using electrostatically spraying functional graphene to prepare antibacterial yarn is a physical modification method. This method is simple in process, less pollution and low energy consumption. In addition, through the different functional modification of graphene oxide, the blended yarn with multiple functions can be prepared in one step, which can easily realize the multi functional modification of yarns. The research results have important guiding significance for the innovation and upgrading of functional textiles and their green processing technologies.

Heat transfer performance of heated fabric system

ZHANG Xueyuan, L Kaimin, DAI Hongqin, XIE Dan, XIA Yuanyuan

2023, 31(2):  146. 

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Properties of paper yarn recycled polyester composite yarn and its knitted fabric

HU Diefei, WANG Yan, YAO Juming, XIA Xinxing, ZHANG Guoqing, DANA Kremenakova, JIRI Militky, JAKUB Wiener, ZHU Guocheng

2023, 31(2):  152. 

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In order to actively respond to the climate change and environmental issues, the green and sustainable technology has been always concerned. The development of new bio based fiber materials has also become one urgent task for China's textile industry in the new era of "green, technology and fashion". Owing to the environmentally friendly, simple processing, non chemical pollution and recyclable characteristics, the paper yarn has been applied on the market and increasing dramatically, and the domestic demand for paper yarn has reached 80,000 to 100,000 tons year, with a growth rate 25% year on year, showing promising development prospect. However, at present, the weaving strength of paper yarn is low and the production is difficult, and the paper yarn is only targeted at the high end market. Little research is available for the paper yarn and textile in China, and there is a lack of reference for the evaluation of its related performance.

In order to overcome the problems of pure paper yarn such as low strength, high hardness and easy yarn breaking in the actual weaving process, three kinds of composite yarns made of paper yar recycled polyester (100 0, 70 30, 60 40) were prepared, and the knitted fabric was also fabricated by MACH2SIG automatic computer flat knitting machine. Before knitting, the composite yarns were treated by wax for reducing their roughness and friction. The evenness and mechanical properties of composite yarns, the air permeability, moisture permeability, drapability, wrinkle elasticity, breaking strength and bursting strength of the knitted fabrics were tested. The test results were processed and analyzed by fuzzy comprehensive evaluation method, the weight coefficient and normalized value were calculated, and the comfort of paper yarn recycled polyester composite yarn fabrics was evaluated objectively. The results show that the breaking strength and elongation of the composite yarn improve when the ratio of recycled polyester increases. The comprehensive wearability of the knitted fabric made from composite yarn with paper yarn recycled polyester (60 40) is the best, and the knitted fabric made from paper yarn recycled polyester (100 0) is the worst.

The paper yarn recycled polyester composite yarn as a green and environment friendly textile material has a broad and promising application in textile. This research work could provide a theoretical and technical guidance for application of the paper yarn and its textiles.

Research on the plastic acetate starch applied to sizing for superfine cotton yarns

ZHOU Dan, YIN Yiqiu, SHEN Yanqin, WU Hailiang, YAO Yijun

2023, 31(2):  159. 

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With Chinas goal of peaking carbon emissions before 2030 and achieving carbon neutrality before 2060, the development of low carbon starch has become an important research and development direction of low carbon textile starch weaving. Starch has been widely developed and applied in the field of low carbon textile starch because of its rich source, renewablity, modification, biodegradability and other properties. However, the strong network structure of hydrogen bonds within and between molecules of starch leads to hard and brittle film forming, which is difficult to meet the requirements of sizing weaving. In order to overcome the defect of starch membrane formation, researchers modified the starch structure to weaken the intramolecular and intermolecular hydrogen bond network structure through various methods such as esterification, etherification, grafting and plasticizer, and introduced new substituents to further destroy the hydrogen bond interaction in the starch structure. Acetate starch, with its advantages of low gelatinization temperature and high viscosity thermal stability, provides potential for low temperature and low carbon sizing. However, acetate starch still has the problem of brittle film forming. The plasticizing mechanism of acetate starch and the correlation between plasticizer and plastic acetate starch yarn have not been reported publicly.

In this paper, acetate starch was prepared by acetylation of starch with acetic anhydride as the modifier, and plastic acetate starch size was obtained by plasticizing with diammonium hydrogen citrate. The chemical structure of acetate starch was analyzed, the size film mechanical properties and plasticizing mechanism of plastic acetate starch were studied, the viscosity and thermal stability of plastic acetate starch size were tested, and the plastic acetate starch size was applied to the sizing practice of superfine cotton yarns. The FT IR results showed that the ester group characteristic peaks appeared on the structure of acetate starch. Compared with acetate starch, the plastic acetate starch size film presents a higher elongation at break, which is due to the fact that the formation of hydrogen bond between diammonium hydrogen citrate and the hydroxyl group on the structure of acetate starch weakens the hydrogen bond network structure of the starch itself and improves the compliance of the molecular chain. When diammonium hydrogen citrate is 1% of starch acetate, the size film shows better toughness and mechanical properties. In addition, the plastic acetate starch size shows high viscosity thermal stability, and has good sizing effect on superfine cotton yarns.

Studying the plasticizing mechanism of plastic acetate starch and the properties of its size film, serous fluid and sizing can effectively solve the inherent brittle and hard defects of starch forming, provide a theoretical basis for exploring the mechanism of starch forming and plasticizing, provide technical support for the development of low carbon high performance textile starch slurry, and promote the development of low carbon textile sizing weaving.

Preparation and properties of PTFE/polyacrylate composite latex and its applications in pigment printing for polyester fabrics

XIE Lijin, XIE Ziwen, LI Jiawei, YANG Xiaoming, LI Yaobang, QI Dongming

2023, 31(2):  167. 

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In order to improve the color fastness to rubbing and colour fastness to sunlight of pigment printed fabrics, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) emulsion was used as seed particles, and butyl acrylate (BA), methacrylic acid (MAA) and methyl methacrylate (MMA) were used as comonomers to prepare polytetrafluoroethylene/polyacrylate (PTFE/PAcr) composite latex via emulsion polymerization, which was applied to the pigment printing of polyester fabrics (Oxford fabric). The effects of PTFE content on the hydrophobicity and thermal properties of the composite latex film, K/S value and color fastness to rubbing of printed fabrics were investigated. The results show that PTFE/PAcr composite emulsion particles present a core-shell structure. The hydrophobic property and thermal stability of the composite latex film increase with the increase of PTFE mass fraction. As for pigment printed polyester fabrics using the obtained composite latex as binder, the K/S value is 13.2, and the dry and wet color fastness to rubbing both reach grade 5, which indicates such fabrics have better color depth and color fastness to rubbing than those of printed fabrics using traditional polyacrylate latex binder. More importantly, the color depth and color fastness of the printed fabric do not change significantly after 100 hours’ continuous sunlight test, suggesting the printed fabrics have good weather resistance.

Synthesis of the anionic antistatic agent and its property research

YU Meiya, RAHMATULLOEV Kishvar, MAO Lijuan, WU Jingjin, SHEN Guojian, ZOU Zhuanyong

2023, 31(2):  177. 

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Effects of oxidative treatment catalyzed by laccase/TEMPO system on lignins in jute fibers

LIU Ling, XU Shuai, WANG Huifeng, DONG Ai′xue

2023, 31(2):  185. 

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In this paper, jute fibers were catalytically oxidized by the laccase/TEMPO system, the lignin content in jute fibers before and after the treatment was determined through the Klason method, and the molecular weight and distribution, element content as well as the chemical structure of lignin extracted from jute fibers by the dioxane method were determined using gel permeation chromatography, organic elemental analysis and hydrogen nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy, respectively. The results showed that the lignin content in jute fibers decreased from 10.83% to 8.59% after the laccase/TEMPO treatment. The lignin remaining on jute fibers was also degraded, with the weight average molecular weight decreasing from 439,938 Da to 238,704 Da. For the lignin of laccase/TEMPO-treated jute fibers, its carbon content increased, oxygen content and OCH3 content decreased, and the number of alcohol hydroxyl groups decreased, while the number of phenolic hydroxyl groups decreased slightly. Besides, the connection type between structural units of lignin also changed, with the proportion of β-β, β-1and β-O-4 structure decreasing and the proportion of β-5 structure increasing. The results indicated that the laccase/TEMPO catalyzed oxidation reaction of jute fiber lignin was accompanied by some demethylation, and β-β, β-O-4 and β-1 bonds were mainly broken during lignin degradation and then β-5 links were formed.

Textile-based dip padding-cyanotype optimization and performance evaluation

WEI Yunhang, DU Shan, TAN Yuhao, ZHOU Meiling, LU Shiyan , YANG Hongying, ZHOU Weitao

2023, 31(2):  191. 

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In order to investigate the optimal experimental conditions for cyanotype process of textiles, the cyanotype effects of different fabrics from cotton, linen and silk were evaluated via K/S values and the reason for the color difference was analyzed via the diffusion of photosensitizer on fabric surfaces. It is found that the wettability has a significant effect on cyanotype tanning for different fabrics and it is also crucial to tune the diffusivity of photosensitizer agents on fabric surfaces. Parameters like photosensitizer concentration, mixing ratio and exposure time were optimized and investigated to evaluate the feasibility of dip-padding and cyanotype method. SEM and TG analyzer were applied to characterize the morphology change and temperature-mass change relationship and the deposition mechanism of Prussian blue (PB) was investigated. Results indicate that the best loading process requires a photosensitizer concentration of 140 g/L, a mixing ratio VA: VB of 1:1, and an exposure time of 20 min. Large amounts of solid particles are deposited onto cotton fabric with an average size of 0.42±0.16 μm. TG analysis shows compared to pristine cotton fabric, the residue rate of PB-loaded cotton fabric increases to 14.22%, demonstrating that PB is successfully deposited onto the cotton fabric. Its breaking force declines dramatically by 24.5%, whilst there is no obvious change in breaking elongation. The color fastness to washing is grade 4. These performances are compliant with the wearing criteria in China.

Research on the preparation and the photocatalytic dye degradation performance of TiO2 nanofiber

GE Yeqian, XU Jiaqi, CAO Qi, ZHANG Xiaxia, WANG Yifeng, XU Fujun

2023, 31(2):  197. 

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In order to improve the photocatalysis efficiency of TiO2, the PVP/TBT composite nanofiber membranes were prepared by electrospinning technology and calcination method based on tetrabutyl titanate (TBT) and polyvinyl pyrrolidone (PVP), and then continuous TiO2 nanofibers were fabricated after calcination. The morphology and structure of TiO2 nanofiber were characterized by SEM, XRD, and TG. The photocatalytic dye degradation performance of TiO2 nanofibers was measured under ultraviolet light with methylene blue as the target degradation material. The results show that the TiO2 nanofibers calcined at 450℃ have good photocatalytic activity. Under the condition that the dye concentration is 20 mg/L and the mass ration of the TiO2 nanofiber and dye is 1:75 in dye solution, the notable degradation rate is 93.31% at 20 min, and 99.83% at 80 min.

Applied research of magnetron sputtering in textile field

QIAO Yangyang, LIU Mingxue, LIU Qiongxi, ZHOU Lan, SHAO Jianzhong

2023, 31(2):  204. 

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Magnetron sputtering, as an ecological environmental protection film deposition technology, has been widely concerned in the textile field. This paper summarizes the research progress of magnetron sputtering technology in the fields of textile functionalization, structure coloring and film-substrate bonding stability, briefly introduces the deposition principle and characteristics of magnetron sputtering on textile substrates, the classification of targets and the application characteristics of common targets, and points out the current shortcomings of magnetron sputtering and corresponding improvement strategies. The application of this technology is conducive to the sustainable development of textile dyeing and finishing industry.

Study on modification method of viscose fiber

ZHANG Junqi, GUO Yongde

2023, 31(2):  218. 

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Viscose fiber modification, as a method to improve fiber properties and endow fiber functionality, has received extensive attention in recent years. Through modification, viscose fiber can be endowed with antibacterial, flame retardant, conductive, highly adsorptive, magnetic, anti-inflammatory, hemostatic and other functions, which expands the application field of viscose fiber. The functional modification methods of viscose fibers were introduced, including the chemical methods of graft copolymerization, in situ synthesis, chemical crosslinking, oxidation and etherification; the physical methods of post-finishing, plasma treatment, and blending; the biological methods of enzyme treatment, etc. The application and development potential of functional viscose fiber were discussed in order to provide technical reference for the research and application of functional fiber.

Research progress of filament winding technology on composite pressure vessels

HUANG Zesheng, ZHU Lütao, SHEN Wei, CHEN Lifeng

2023, 31(2):  230. 

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Compared with the metal pressure vessel, the composite pressure vessel prepared by fiber winding process has a good weight reduction effect, which changes the storage and transportation principles of primary energy such as hydrogen and natural gas. Firstly, the mesh theory is introduced to provide the shell design solution of the fiber wound pressure vessel. Secondly, it is pointed out that the research of non-geodesic winding technology leads the development of filament winding line design. Then, the research progress of composite pressure vessels in three aspects: the forming process, quality of and detection standard of the winding layer are summarized by comparing and analyzing different winding processes. Finally, the development trend of filament winding technology in composite pressure vessels is summarized and prospected.

Research progress and application of waterproof and moisture permeable membranes on textiles

QIU Huili, YANG Qun, CUI Jin, PEI Liujun, HU Genghao

2023, 31(2):  244. 

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Waterproof and moisture permeable membranes are a kind of functional membrane material with both waterproof and moisture permeability. Combined with fiber fabric, they can prepare functional textiles with unique protective properties, waterproof, breathable and moisture permeability. Currently, the moisture and heat transfer membrane materials used in human-environment interaction of wearable textiles mainly include polytetrafluoroethylene hydrophobic membranes, polyurethane hydrophilic membranes and electrospun fiber membranes. Therefore, the structure, preparation method, waterproof and moisture permeable mechanism and application of these three kinds of waterproof and moisture permeable membranes are reviewed. The research progress of of waterproof and moisture permeable membranes and their application trend in textiles are introduced, and the research focus of the future development on intelligent fabrics is prospected. 

Research progress of electrospun carbon nanotube-based composites in sensor applications

YANG Haizhen, MA Chuang, WEI Sujie, ZHOU Zelin, TIAN Zhengkun

2023, 31(2):  256. 

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 Carbon nanotubes (CNTs) are one-dimensional quantum materials with special structures. Due to their excellent electrical, thermal, chemical and mechanical properties, as well as their potential applications in many fields such as energy storage and energy conversion devices, sensors, hydrogen storage media, etc. CNTs have attracted extensive attention from all walks of life. The research status of carbon nanotube-based composite sensors prepared by electrospinning technology in recent years at home and abroad was introduced, and the development of biosensors, flexible strain/pressure sensors, electrochemical sensors, humidity sensors and gas chemical sensors were focused on. And the future development prospect has also been envisioned.