Abstract:

In order to actively respond to the climate change and environmental issues, the green and sustainable technology has been always concerned. The development of new bio based fiber materials has also become one urgent task for China's textile industry in the new era of "green, technology and fashion". Owing to the environmentally friendly, simple processing, non chemical pollution and recyclable characteristics, the paper yarn has been applied on the market and increasing dramatically, and the domestic demand for paper yarn has reached 80,000 to 100,000 tons year, with a growth rate 25% year on year, showing promising development prospect. However, at present, the weaving strength of paper yarn is low and the production is difficult, and the paper yarn is only targeted at the high end market. Little research is available for the paper yarn and textile in China, and there is a lack of reference for the evaluation of its related performance.

In order to overcome the problems of pure paper yarn such as low strength, high hardness and easy yarn breaking in the actual weaving process, three kinds of composite yarns made of paper yar recycled polyester (100 0, 70 30, 60 40) were prepared, and the knitted fabric was also fabricated by MACH2SIG automatic computer flat knitting machine. Before knitting, the composite yarns were treated by wax for reducing their roughness and friction. The evenness and mechanical properties of composite yarns, the air permeability, moisture permeability, drapability, wrinkle elasticity, breaking strength and bursting strength of the knitted fabrics were tested. The test results were processed and analyzed by fuzzy comprehensive evaluation method, the weight coefficient and normalized value were calculated, and the comfort of paper yarn recycled polyester composite yarn fabrics was evaluated objectively. The results show that the breaking strength and elongation of the composite yarn improve when the ratio of recycled polyester increases. The comprehensive wearability of the knitted fabric made from composite yarn with paper yarn recycled polyester (60 40) is the best, and the knitted fabric made from paper yarn recycled polyester (100 0) is the worst.

The paper yarn recycled polyester composite yarn as a green and environment friendly textile material has a broad and promising application in textile. This research work could provide a theoretical and technical guidance for application of the paper yarn and its textiles.

Key words: paper yarn, paper yarn recycled polyester composite yarn, wearability, comfort, fuzzy comprehensive , evaluation

摘要： 为了探究纸纱再生涤纶复合纱的可织性及其针织面料的综合服用性，采用MACH2SIG全自动电脑横机将纸纱再生涤纶(100.0、70.30、60.40)3种复合纱编织成纬平针织物，测试纸纱再生涤纶复合纱的条干均匀度、力学性能以及针织物的热阻、透气性、透湿性、悬垂性、折皱弹性和力学性能。利用模糊数学综合评价方法对测试结果进行分析，对纸纱再生涤纶织物的服用舒适性做出综合评价。结果表明：随再生涤纶含量比例增加，复合纱的条干均匀度下降，断裂强力和断裂伸长率提高；3种针织物经模糊综合评价所得的评判值分别为0.2942、0.3311和0.3737。依据最大隶属度原则，纸纱再生涤纶(60.40)织物的综合服用性能最佳。

关键词: 纸纱, 纸纱再生涤纶复合纱, 服用性, 舒适性, 模糊综合评价