Abstract: In order to improve the moisture absorption, quick drying and sun protection performance of the fabric in summer, and make it cool, AIRCLAD modified polyester yarn was used as the raw material, and AIRCLAD modified polyester fiber, a fiber made of ceramics and jadeite, was used to obtain nano particles via nanotechnology, and then the polyester spinning melt was obtained. The tubular hollow fiber has moisture absorption, quick drying, cold feeling and sun protection function. Three kinds of fabric structures, namely, flat stitch fabric, double rib fabric and double bead fabric, were woven on a knitting machine, and nine kinds of samples were prepared by using three different knitting densities. Meanwhile, three kinds of knitted fabrics with different tissues were woven with common polyester yarns as the control group. The PW-5P-AT2 automatic water absorption speed tester, ultraviolet spectrometer and other instruments were used to test their moisture absorption, drying speed, cool sense on contact and sun protection performance. The Spearman rank correlation analysis and multiple linear regression were used to analyze the relationship between fabric structure parameters and performance, and the optimal fabric parameters were selected by comprehensive fuzzy evaluation.
The results show that knitted fabrics made of AIRCLAD modified polyester yarns have good moisture absorption, quick drying, cold feeling and sun protection properties; common polyester fabrics have sunscreen properties, but they do not have moisture absorption, quick drying and cool sense on contact. From the analysis of fabric sunscreen performance, the regression equation of sunscreen performance and thickness is Y=415.374X+63.680, and the regression equation of T (UVA) and thickness is Y=-0.394X+2.250. The thickness is significantly positively correlated with the sunscreen performance, that is, the tighter and thicker the fabric is, the more difficult it is for ultraviolet rays to penetrate. Specifically, the double bead weave fabric is thicker than the other two weave fabrics, so its UV resistance is the best. From the analysis of cool sense on contact of the fabric, the fabric structure is significantly related to the sense on contact, and the sense on contact of weft plain stitch is better than that of double bead weave and double rib weave. The tighter the fabric is, the larger the contact surface between the fabric and the skin is, so the better the sense on contact of the fabric is. From the analysis of fabric moisture absorption and drying speed, the regression equation of moisture permeability and thickness is Y=-364.108X+1056.701, and the regression equation of evaporation rate and thickness and density is Y=-0.241X-0.002Z+0.922. The moisture permeability and evaporation rate are negatively related to the thickness. The thinner the fabric is, the smaller the density is, and the higher the porosity is, which is conducive to the passage of water vapor. The regression equation among longitudinal wicking height, transverse density, and longitudinal density is Y=-0.241X-0.002Z+0.922, and that between transverse wicking height and transverse density is Y=-1.149X+232.731. There is a negative correlation between longitudinal and transverse wicking height and fabric density. The regression equation between water absorption and thickness is Y=66.248X+206.906. The water absorption is positively related to the thickness. The thicker and tighter the fabric, the better the water absorption. Under the experimental conditions, it is concluded that the best performance of moisture absorption fast drying cold feeling sunscreen fabric is 7 #, the structural parameters are horizontal density, vertical density of 80 pieces/5cm, 123 pieces/5cm, surface density of 209.7 g/cm2, and the fabric texture is double bead texture.

Key words: modified polyester, UV resistance, moisture absorption and quick drying, cool sense on contact, organizational structure

摘要： 为提高夏季织物的吸湿速干性能和防晒性能，并使之具备良好的凉爽感，以AIRCLAD改性涤纶纱线为原料，设计并织造了9种不同组织、不同结构参数的针织面料，同时用普通涤纶纱线编织3种不同组织的针织面料作为对照组。利用PW-5P-AT2自动吸水速度测试仪、紫外分光计、KES-F7接触冷暖感测试仪等仪器测试它们的吸湿速干、接触冷感和防晒性能，采用斯皮尔曼等级相关分析和多元线性回归分析织物结构参数与性能之间的关系，并构建了吸湿速干、接触冷感、防晒性能和组织、结构参数之间的回归模型。结果表明：用AIRCLAD改性涤纶纱线织造的面料均具有良好的吸湿速干、冷感、防晒性能；织物厚度、纵密与防晒性能呈显著正相关；织物组织与接触冷感显著相关，纬平针组织的接触冷感性能最佳；织物透气率、面密度、厚度与吸湿速干性呈显著负相关，轻薄且透气率大的面料，吸湿速干性性能较好。

关键词: 改性涤纶, 抗紫外线, 吸湿速干, 接触冷感, 组织结构