Abstract: In order to develop high-end fabric that is comfortable to wear under hot conditions, has good air permeability and cool touch, this paper used mulberry silk as the warp yarn and hemp yarn as the weft yarn. Under the same warp density, by changing the fabric weave, weft density and warp and weft weave points, a total of 24 kinds of fabrics in A, B and C series were designed and tried. The air permeability and thermal conductivity of the fabrics were measured by fabric air permeability meter and Hot Disk thermal constant analyzer, and the data indexes were analyzed by fuzzy comprehensive analysis method. According to the variable process parameters of fabric design, fabric weave is formed through the interweaving of warp and weft yarns. In the same cycle, the varied buckling of warp and weft yarns and the different changes in warp and weft density have an impact on the air permeability and cool properties of fabric. To explore the factors affecting the air permeability and cool properties of fabrics under the premise of ensuring good appearance and feel, three series of samples were designed from three methods: weave, weft density and the proportion of warp and weft points in the same cycle. A series of samples were woven with different fabric weaves at the same weft density. To ensure comparability, all weaves were circulated in 8*8 cycles. The samples of B series were woven with different weft densities when the fabric weave was determined. The three original weft densities were selected, and each fabric had three kinds of weft densities. For C-series samples, the ratio of warp and weft points of the weft surface was changed. Specifically, the weaves of A series of samples were divided into plain weave and its reinforcing weace, 3/1 twill weave and its reinforcing weave, and 8-piece 3-fly weft satin weave and its reinforcing weave, which were used to study the influence of different fabric weaves on the permeability and cooling properties of the samples under the same weft density. The B series of samples were used to study the influence of different weft densities on the permeability and cooling properties of the samples when the fabric weave was determined. The fabric was made of common plain weave, 3/1 twill weave and 8-piece 3-fly satin weave. The weft density of each weave was 30 (thread/10cm), 33 (thread/10cm) and 35 (thread/10cm) respectively. The C series of samples were made of the same fabric weave, with 8-piece weft satin patterns. Different proportions of warp and weft points were designed (the number of reinforcing points in the warp and weft direction was 1, 2 and 3, respectively) to study the influence of fabric points on the breathability and coolness of the samples. The results show that when the warp density is 50 (piece/10cm), the weft density is 30 (piece/10cm) and the fabric is 8-piece weft satin, the air permeability and cool performance of the silk and linen fabric are the best. When the warp density is unchanged and the weft density is increased, the air permeability and coolness of the silk and linen fabric decrease. With the increase of the number of warp and weft points, the air permeability and coolness of the silk and linen fabric will decrease. When the weft density increases and the fabric is plain and twill, the permeability and coolness of the silk and linen fabric will increase. The experiment provides a theoretical basis for further development of high-end functional fabrics with air permeability and coolness.

Key words: silk and linen fabric, breathable, cool, fabric weave, fuzzy comprehensive evaluation

摘要： 为了开发出在炎热条件下穿着舒适、透气性能好、触感凉爽的高端服用面料，采用桑蚕丝作为经纱，大麻（汉麻）纱作为纬纱，在相同的经密下，通过改变织物组织、纬密及经纬组织点等方法，设计并试织了A、B、C三个系列共24种织物，利用织物透气量仪和Hot Disk热常数分析仪分别测试织物的透气和导热系数，并通过模糊综合分析法对各项数据指标进行分析。结果表明：在经密为50根/(10 cm)、纬密为30根/(10 cm)、组织为8枚纬缎时，丝麻面料的透气性、凉爽性能最好；在经密不变、纬密增加时，丝麻面料的透气性、凉爽性下降；随着缎纹经组织点的个数的增加，丝麻面料的透气性、凉爽性会下降；当纬密增加且组织为平纹和斜纹时，丝麻面料的透气性、凉爽性会增加。研究结果可为进一步开发具有透气性、凉爽性高端功能服用面料提供一定的理论依据。

关键词: 丝麻面料, 透气, 凉爽, 织物组织, 模糊综合评判