Table of Content

10 March 2022, Volume 30 Issue 2

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Comprehensive Review

Preparation and properties of two-dimensional material MXene (Ti₃C₂T_x)and Its application in textile field

YAN Xiaofei, FANG Jie, ZHU Chenkai, LI Jiawei, ZHU Chengyan, QI Dongmin

2022, 30(2):  1-8.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202105030

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To facilitate the functional and intelligent application of MXene (Ti₃C₂T_x)in textile realted field, relevant domestic and foreign literature were reviewed to specifically elaborate on the preparation methods of MXene, including HF corrosion method, in situ-generated HF corrosion method, molten salt method, electrochemical process, and concentrated alkali method; the research progress of MXene in textile fields related to mechanics, electricity, flame retardant smoke suppression, energy storage were summarized in detail; the outstanding performance of MXene in intelligent fabrics and flexible sensors based on textile inks, fibers, and coating were concluded. Finally, this paper indicated the inadequacies of MXene such as poor dispersity in the resin matrix, the susceptibility to oxidation in the air, poor durability of use, as well as its future direction of development.

Research progress of coloring technology for meta-aramid

SONG Jixian, JIANG Hua, CUI Zhihua, CHEN Weiguo

2022, 30(2):  9-17.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202105023

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Meta-aramid is a new-type high-tech synthetic fiber widely used in flame-retardant clothing, military, aerospace and other fields due to its superior heat resistance, flame retardance and stability. However, it is hard for dye molecules to enter the fiber or combine with the fiber because of strong interaction between the aramid polymer chains, high fiber crystallinity, and strong chemical inertness on the fiber surface, resulting in poor property of aramid dyeing. Currently, aramid dyeing issues can be addressed by two means: develop new-type dyeing processes to improve the dye-uptake by increasing temperature, adding a carrier or using non-aqueous dyeing media instead; improve the dyeability through aramid modification. This paper reviews the current status of meta-aramid coloring technology, briefly introduces the fundamental principles and research progress of a variety of dyeing methods, specifically elaborates on the relationship between aramid structure and dyeing properties, and summarizes the challenges and application prospects of these dyeing approaches.

Application of CFD in heat and flow transfer performanceevaluation for clothing

CHEN Huizhen, DAI Hongqin, PAN Shuwen, HU Jue, CHEN Xi

2022, 30(2):  18-26.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202103026

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To break down the limitations of traditional experimental means and one-dimensional mathematical models, some researchers proposed to simulate the process of heat and flow transfer in human-clothing-environment system based on computational fluid dynamics. Through the calculation of skin temperature, heat transfer coefficient and other parameters, the heat transfer properties of clothing can be evaluated. This paper summarizes the procedure of simulation to solve clothing heat transfer issues, reveals key points on establishing geometries of clothing and human body, calculating models and setting boundary conditions; reviews the progress of heat transfer research at home and abroad from the perspectives of human body, clothing structure, and protective clothing functions; concludes the characteristics of common human thermal physiological models, and introduces how to construct thermal regulation-CFD coupling system in the evaluation. It is found that existing simulation methods are still difficult to completely restore the real characteristics of textile materials, clothing space distribution, and human thermal reaction. Finally, this paper proposes recommendations of conduct in-depth research on dynamic grids, user-defined functions, and numerical model coupling systems so as to enhance the accuracy of simulation evaluation.

Research progress on quantitative forecast methods of clothing sales

ZHENG Jinfeng, LUO Ronglei

2022, 30(2):  27-35.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202104036

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The forecast of clothing sales is one of the essential steps in the commodity planning of clothing enterprises. In order to effectively help garment planners and relevant scholars to choose appropriate forecast methods of clothing sales quickly as the case may be, this study summarizes the advantages and disadvantages, optimization process and application types of 4 kinds of quantitative sales forecast methods, including time series method, regression analysis method, grey prediction model and artificial neural network, illustrates and sums up some combined algorithms of machine learning. The results show that the time series method is suitable for short-and medium-term forecast of clothing sales with small discrete degree of historical data and few influence factors; in the regression analysis, multiple regression method is more suitable for the forecast of clothing sales with multiple influence factors than single regression method in computational theory; grey prediction model is suitable for the forecast of clothing sales with smooth data and few influence factors, while the artificial neural network is suitable for the forecast of sales of fashionable garments with highly discrete sales data.

Testing and Analysi

Recognition technology of cashmere and wool fibers based on mask R-CNN deep learning

CONG Mingfang, LI Ziyin, LU Yang, HAN Gaofeng, XIE Lingjia, WANG Qizhen

2022, 30(2):  36-40.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202104002

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To enhance the level of automation for wool fiber quantification, the mask R-CNN deep learning technology was introduced for the processing of the pictures collected by the optical microscope, optimization of algorithm model, learning and training. An automatic recognition model of cashmere and sheep wool was established. Through the verification test using a test set, it was found that the accuracy of automatic recognition of cashmere and sheep wool fibers reached more than 95%, confirming the feasibility of the recognition technology developed in this paper.

Yarn diameter time series prediction based on piecewisepolymerization and Kalman filter

WANG Yanmeng, QIN Peng, ZHANG Wenguo

2022, 30(2):  41-47.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202103006

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For a more accurate yarn diameter prediction and accurate yarn quality prediction, the principle of yarn diameter data sampling was firstly analyzed, piecewise polymerization of yarn sample fragments was performed, and a time series model state equation was established based on the yarn diameter value after polymerization. Next, the yarn diameter and the coefficient of variation were predicted using autoregressive moving average model. Then the predicted value was optimized using Kalman filter. The accuracy of the prediction model was verified through experiments, and the results showed that the root mean square error of the yarn diameter predicted after Kalman filter optimization was 2.68%, with an average absolute percentage error of 6.71%. Compared with the yarn unevenness predicted by other methods, this method exhibited excellent prediction accuracy. The test results of the eight experimental samples selected for model generalization verification were all within 50% of Uster statistical value, with the error between the average yarn diameter and the theoretical diameter of less than 3%, indicating that the prediction model is accurate when applied to yarn quality online prediction. This prediction model can be used as a new method for yarn quality prediction.

A method for fabric defect detection based on improved cascade R-CNN

XU Shengbao, ZHENG Liaomo, YUAN Decheng

2022, 30(2):  48-56.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202106018

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To solve the difficult detection problem due to the uneven distribution of different fabric defects, extreme aspect ratios existing in some defects, and a large number of small targets, a method for fabric defect detection based on improved cascade R-CNN was proposed. The difficult examples were mined online in R-CNN part to strengthen small target training. To address the issue of the extreme aspect ratio of fabric defects, the traditional square volume in the feature extraction network was replaced by deformable convolution v2. The scale of the bounding box was redesigned according to the characteristics of the fabric. Finally, the complete intersection over union loss was adopted as the bounding box regression loss, and a more accurate target bounding box was obtained. The experimental results indicated that the improved model was more accurate in predicting the bounding box than that before improvement, and it achieved a better effect on small target detection. The accuracy was improved by 3.57%, and the average accuracy was improved by 6.45%. Therefore, it can better meet the requirements of fabric defect detection.

Study on the test method for the hair-loss quantity of raised silk scarf and shawl

LI Li, GU Hu, HU Kaijie, LI Xia

2022, 30(2):  57-62.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202104029

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To enhance the repeatability and reproducibility of the method for testing the hair-loss quantity according to the standard Raised Silk Scarf and Shawl (FZ/T 44007-2019), and to avoid test failure, the method was studied. The sample area was measured using several different methods. A suction filtration experiment was performed using sand core funnels with four different pore diameters. A hair-loss experiment was then performed using sand core funnels with different pore diameters by different measurement means. The research results showed that different measurement locations and measurement methods may lead to great differences in the sample area results. The adoption of sand core funnels with different pore diameters had different suction filtration efficiency, and also affected the experiment results. Finally, recommendations for test method improvement were proposed. By specifying the effective area measurement method of the sample and the pore diameter of the sand core funnel, it is hoped to improve the repeatability and reproducibility of the experiment.

A quantitative analysis of cotton/polyester/spandex composite fabricthrough hydrochloric acid-sulfuric acid process

ZHANG Hongkang, ZHANG Yunjuan, ZHOU Zhaoyi

2022, 30(2):  63-67.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202103015

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In order to optimize the method of quantitative analysis of cotton/polyester fiber/spandex blend fabric, a hydrochloric acid-sulfuric acid process was designed according to newly issued national standard Textiles-Quantitative Chemical Analysis-Mixtures of Elastane and Some Other Fibers (GB/T 38015—2019): 20% HCl was used to dissolve cotton at 70℃ for 30 min, and then 75% H₂SO₄ was adopted to dissolve spandex at 50 ℃ for 1 h. Next, the mass fraction of each component was obtained according to the mass loss, thus the quantitative analysis of cotton/polyester fiber/spandex blend fabric was completed. In this paper, 10 different specifications of cotton/polyester fiber/spandex blend fabric were quantitatively analyzed through hydrochloric acid-sulfuric acid process, and then compared with the traditional split-75% H₂SO₄ method and DMF-75% H₂SO₄ method. The results revealed that the quality correction coefficient of polyester fiber in 20% HCl (70 ℃, 30 min)was 1.00, and the newly designed hydrochloric acid-sulfuric acid process was proved to be feasible, with the advantages of easy operation and accurate data.

Materials Engineering

Preparation and properties of flexible microwave absorbing composite textile

GAO Shuang, CAI Fei, NI Qingqing, FU Yaqin

2022, 30(2):  68-74.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202103040

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In order to prepare a flexible foldable microwave absorbing composite textile, this paper selects three-dimensional orthogonal fabric as the substrate and polyurethane as the binder to compound carbon black onto the substrate. The microscopic morphology, structure, flexibility and microwave absorbing properties of the composites are analyzed, through scanning electron microscopy, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, stiffness tester, vector network analyzer and arched frame connection,. The results show that when the mass fraction of carbon black in the impregnation solution is 15%, and the bending height of the composites is 10cm, the composite exhibits good flexibility; the effective absorption bandwidth (EAB) of the material can cover the entire X band when the test angle is 0°. A minimum reflection loss (RL_min) of -41.33 dB is obtained at 10.64 GHz when the test angle is 30°. This suggests that adding a proper amount of carbon black can effectively improve the microwave absorbing properties of the composites.

Compressive properties of graphene oxide modified carbon/glasshybrid fiber reinforced composite

CHEN Jiawei, ZHANG Hongwei, GAO Xiaoping

2022, 30(2):  75-84.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202104039

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To investigate the compressive properties of biaxial carbon/glass hybrid fiber composite, graphene oxide (GO)modified carbon/glass hybrid fiber reinforced composite samples with different mass fractions were prepared using vacuum-assisted resin transfer molding (VARTM), and the impact of different GO mass fraction on the compressive properties of carbon/glass hybrid fiber composite was analyzed. The results showed that the compressive strength of the GO modified composite samples along the 0° and 90° directions was improved by 12.24% and 19.64%, respectively. As far as the compressive properties of the specimen are concerned the result was nonlinear fitted and verified by experiment, through nonlinear fitting and experimental verification, it was found that the optimal GO mass fraction is 0.21%. The microscopic sample fracture topography indicated that the interfacial bonding area and strength between fiber and matrix of GO modified composite were are improved, and fiber delamination and interfacial debonding were effectively inhibited. It revealed that through GO modification, the compressive properties of carbon/glass hybrid fiber composite can be significantly improved. The research results can provide a certain reference for in-depth analysis of GO mechanism and the improvement of the mechanical properties of hybrid fiber composites.

The film laminating technology and properties of PTFE composite filter materials

NIE Sunjian, LIANG Yan, ZHOU Guanchen, YANG Dong

2022, 30(2):  85-92.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202012006

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In order to explore the preparation process and properties of polytetrafluoroe-thylene (PTFE) composite filter materials, by taking different types of PTFE membranes as the main raw materials, and non-woven fabrics as the substrate, PTFE composite filter materials are prepared with different film laminating methods. The effect of the types of PTFE membrane and film laminating methods on the properties of PTFE/non-woven composite filter materials, as well as difference between the properties of melt-blown cloth and PTFE/non-woven composite filter materials are studied. The results indicate that the PTFE/non-woven composite filter material prepared with PTFE-A membrane as the raw material has lower ventilation resistance than heat-cladded material and the filtration efficiency is up to reach 99%. The filtration efficiency and ventilation resistance of this material can satisfy the standard requirements for masks.

Effect of annealing on the structure and mechanical properties of polyurethane fiber

SONG Huifen, SONG Liyan, PAN Tianhao, CHI Changlong, SHI Suyu, ZHANG Xuefeng

2022, 30(2):  93-98.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202101023

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Polyurethane (PU) fiber is prone to fracture, poor elasticity and poor temperature resistance in the process use, which limit the scope of its application. In this project, PU fiber was annealed at certain temperatures to improve mechanical properties. The structures and mechanical properties of spandex before and after annealing were characterized by means of differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), two-dimensional wide-angle X-ray diffractometer (2D-WAXD), infrared spectrometer and universal testing machine. The results show that annealing increases the hydrogen-bond interaction in the molecular link of spandex, promotes the rearrangement and crystallization of hard segments of molecular chain and improves the glass transition temperature of soft segments. By annealing at high temperatures, the tensile strength, elongation at break and elastic recovery of spandex can be improved.

Simulation of gas flow field in reactor for preparation of carbon nanotube fibers by chemical vapor deposition

ZHOU Zihao, WU Lili, CHEN Ting

2022, 30(2):  99-105.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202104032

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In order to investigate the gas flow field in the vertical vapor deposition reactor for preparing carbon nanotube fibers, the fluid dynamics software Gambit and Fluent were used to model and simulate the gas flow field in the vertical vapor deposition reactor numerically. The distributions of gas velocity, temperature and concentration inside the reactor were obtained through simulation. The results show that gas velocity reaches a peak of 1.79 m/s when it is ejected from the inlet pipe. In the process of heating, the velocity gradually stabilizes at 0.02 m/s. The temperature gradually approaches the temperature of reactor wall at 1500K. The carbon source methane gas presents a Poiseuille distribution during the heating of reactor. During the heating of vertical vapor deposition reactor, the gas flow field presents low-speed and steady high temperature, which is a favorable environment and major area for the synthesis of carbon nanotubes and formation of carbon nanotube fibers.

Motion simulation of carbon nanotube fibers in a vapor deposition reactor

LIU Hongxia, XU Jiawen, CHEN Ting

2022, 30(2):  106-112.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202104033

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In order to study the motion morphology of carbon nanotube fibers in a vapor deposition reactor and the impact of motion morphology on the formation of carbon nanotube fibers, this paper first employs the method of numerical simulation to solve the gas flow field in the vapor deposition reactor numerically and then figures out the velocity of gas flow field in the reactor. After that, a carbon nanotube fiber model is built in this gas flow field and a force analysis is conducted to obtain a fiber dynamics equation. Combined with the gas flow field control equation set, we can get a fiber/gas two-phase flow model. Finally, the fiber dynamics equation is solved numerically, with the gas velocity in the reactor obtained through calculation, so as to get the motion morphology of carbon nanotube fibers in the reactor. The simulation results indicate that the gas flow field in the vapor deposition reactor presents a laminar flow state. Since the gas flows in from the center, there is a great fluctuation near the central axis of the fiber reactor. The gas flow area near the central axis gradually expands, and the direction of acceleration changes, making the direction and magnitude of gas velocity change accordingly. The undulating entanglement of fibers can increase the bond of fibers in the fiber bundle, making it difficult to spread out. The gas flow near the wall gradually becomes stable, making the fiber motion near the wall gradually flatten out. The motion morphology of fibers obtained through simulation has a good promoting effect on the formation of carbon nanotube fiber bundles.

Textile Engineering

Strategies for textile color innovative design in the era of color economy

HE Xianwei

2022, 30(2):  113-117.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202106053

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Color plays an important role in textile design. Aiming to explore textile color innovation design strategy in the era of color economy, this paper firstly elaborates on the connotation and value of color economy, and analyzes the challenges for textile color innovative design in terms of sustainable design, concept alteration, color materials and processing technology, and proposes strategies for textile color innovative design. The research believes that by studying people's lifestyle, conducting in-depth market research, paying attention to scientific color matching, and attaching importance to the application of fashion color and traditional color culture, it is expected to provide reference for the innovative design of textile color.

Empirical analysis of the impact of digital economy on the upgrading of shaoxing textile industry

WANG Ruirong

2022, 30(2):  118-126.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202102014

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Taking the data of Shaoxing prefecture-level cities from 2005 to 2019 as the object of research, this paper is focused on an empirical analysis of the impact of the digital economy on the upgrading of Shaoxing textile industry. As shown in the results, in view of the overall industry, the digital economy has a significant and positive impact on promoting the upgrading of the textile industry; in view of the industry segmentation, its positive promoting effect on chemical fiber manufacturing industry and textile industry is more significant than that on clothing industry, leather industry and footwear industry. In addition, the level of economic development can significantly and positively facilitate the upgrading of the textile industry, while human capital and policy environment exhibit a negative inhibiting effect, and foreign direct investment has no significant impact on the upgrading of the textile industry on the whole. Finally, this paper proposes corresponding policy recommendations based on the research conclusions.

Properties of viscose yarn interwoven fabric loaded with core-shellstructure vitamin E nanoparticles

LI Xuemei, LIU Yanan, ZHU Chengyan, JIN Xiaoke, WANG Zhefeng, ZHANG Hongxia

2022, 30(2):  127-133.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202012019

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In order to develop a new type of health care and functional fabric, we used mulberry silk as warp yarn and polyester yarn and viscose yarn loaded with core-shell structure vitamin E nanoparticles as weft yarn, designed and developed 9 kinds of interwoven fabrics with different weft yarn ratios. The effects of the content of viscose yarn in the weft on the wearability, antioxidant and deodorant properties of the fabrics were investigated. A fuzzy comprehensive evaluation method was used to determine a fabric specification design scheme to optimize the comprehensive performance of fabric. The results showed that with the increase of the content viscose yarn loaded with core-shell structure vitamin E nanoparticles in the weft yarn, the air permeability, moisture permeability, anti-fuzzing and piling, antioxidant and deodorant properties had been improved to varying degrees, while the wrinkle recovery had been decreased. When the weft insertion ratio of the viscose yarn to polyester yarn is 1:0, the fabric has the best comprehensive performance. This provides a theoretical basis for the development of a health care and functional fabric-viscose yarn loaded with core-shell structure vitamin E nanoparticles.

Surface graft modification and antibacterial properties of UHMWPE fabrics

YU Lingxiao, LÜ Wangyang, WANG Gangqiang, CHEN Wenxing

2022, 30(2):  134-140.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202101017

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In order to develop an ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) fabric with comfort and antibacterial properties, an UHMWPE fabric with hydrophilic and antibacterial functions was prepared by means of cross-linked copolymer coating of dopamine/polyethyleneimine and copper ion coordination. The microscopic morphology and chemical composition of UHMWPE-PDA/PEI-Cu fabric were characterized by SEM, XRD, ATR-FTIR and XPS. The antibacterial activity of the UHMWPE-PDA/PEI-Cu fabric against bacteria was tested. The results showed that after 18h of co-culture, the antibacterial rates of the UHMWPE-PDA/PEI-Cu fabric against E. coli and S. aureus were greater than 99%. Compared with the unmodified samples (UHMWPE), the water contact angle of the UHMWPE-PDA/PEI-Cu fabric was significantly decreased, while its comfort was greatly improved.

Design of Song brocade products based on the raw fabric piece dyeing process

WEN Run, WANG Guifang, WU Siyang, SHEN Hua

2022, 30(2):  141-147.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202012012

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In order to solve the problems of Song brocade products, that is, high production cost and small target audience, this paper puts forward the innovation and development of Song brocade products via raw fabric piece dyeing process by utilizing the dyeing difference between silk and polyester. Through an investigation of famous Song brocade products, the gray ratio range between two colors, that is, background color and floral color is obtained, and then a dyeing experiment is designed to acquire the effect of three factors, on dyeing temperature, holding time and dye dosage on the coloring of silk and polyester. The dyeing process is optimized through an orthogonal experiment, and a dyeing scheme matching the survey is obtained, so that Song brocades can achieve a bi-color or multi-color effect. The results show that the conventional gray ratio range of background color to floral color of Song brocade is 0.4~0.6. In an acidic environment, high temperature is more beneficial to silk dyeing, and the change of dyeing is distinct when the dye dosage is between 1% and 3% (o.w.f). The dyeing difference and gray ratio of silk and polyester are in line with the survey results. Young, low-cost and diversified Song brocade products can be developed through raw fabric piece dyeing or yarn dyed weaving.

Dyeing and Finishing & Chemical Engineering

Preparation and properties of chitosan-peppermint oil microcapsules

WANG Qiuping, NI Zhanggen, CUI Huiming, LIN Tao, YANG Yun, ZHANG Ruiping

2022, 30(2):  148-158.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202103032

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In order to develop slow-release aromatic functional materials and fabrics, this paper uses single coacervation method to prepare peppermint essential oil microcapsules. Taking particle size and embedding rate as indexes, the preparation process of peppermint essential oil microcapsules is optimized by single factor method. Scanning electron microscope (SEM) is adopted to observe the surface morphology on microcapsules, and infrared analysis is used to analyze the changes of molecular groups in capsule wall before and after curing, and the slow release performance and thermal stability, etc. of peppermint essential oil microcapsules are determined. The results show that the preparation process of peppermint essential oil microcapsules is as follows: by compounding Span80 and Tween80 as an emulsifier, chitosan with a molecular weight of about 30000 is selected as wall material, and the mass ratio between the core material peppermint oil and the wall material chitosan is 1:1, and glutaraldehyde with a mass fraction of 100% (for chitosan) is added for curing for 1 hour. The average particle size of peppermint essential oil microcapsules is about 2.8 μm, and the embedding rate is up to 66.67%. The retention rate is 65.24% after one month at normal temperature and 76.23% after 2 h at high temperature (120℃). Infrared analysis suggests that chitosan forms a cross-linked structure after curing, and thermogravimetric analysis shows that peppermint essential oil microcapsules have good thermal stability. After microencapsulation, the stability of peppermint essential oil is enhanced, which is beneficial to further expansion of the application scope.

Rapid preparation and properties of P(St-MAA)/WPU composite photoniccrystal color-generating structure on textile substrate

HE Wenyu, GAO Yafang, ZHANG Yunxiao, JIN Mengting, ZHOU Lan, WANG Xianglin, LIU Guojin

2022, 30(2):  159-168.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202105006

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In order to quickly prepare a photonic crystal color-generating structure with both good structural color effects and high structural stability, a filling method is put forward to fabricate composite photonic crystals. First of all, the pre-assembly solution of poly(styrene-methacrylic acid) (P(St-MAA)) colloidal microspheres is sprayed on the polyester substrate to obtain photonic crystals, and then waterborne polyurethane (WPU) is sprayed on these P(St-MAA) photonic crystals. Finally, P(St-MAA)/WPU composite photonic crystals are obtained. The impact of the mass fraction of WPU on the arrangement of photonic crystals, structural color effects, and structural stability are investigated and optical properties of P(St-MAA)/WPU composite photonic crystals are analyzed. The results show that spraying WPU doesn’t cause damage to the original regular arrangement of photonic crystals, but infiltrates into the gap between P(St-MAA) microspheres preferentially, gradually replaces air in the original photonic crystals, and finally wraps P(St-MAA) microspheres. The filling of WPU increases the mean refractive index of the P(St-MAA)/WPU composite photonic crystals, leading to a red shift in the hue of structural color. The structural stability of P(St-MAA)/WPU composite photonic crystal is superior to that of P(St-MAA) photonic crystals. Moreover, the greater mass fraction of WPU, the more obviously the stability is improved. The composite photonic crystals obtained by spraying WPU still show good structural color effects and obvious iridescent effects. The research findings provide a simple method for rapid preparation of photonic crystals with bright structural colors and stable structures on textile substrates, and effectively facilitate the practical application of photonic crystal color-generating structure.

Water and oil repellent finishing of cotton fabric based on short-chainfluorinated finishing agent modified with nanoparticles

SHENG Ting, ZHANG Jiawen, XU Tianqi, HU Yelei, YI Lingmin

2022, 30(2):  169-177.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202105018

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In view of environmental pollution caused by long fluorocarbon chain polymers, we prepared a six-carbon short-chain fluorinated acrylate emulsion by miniemulsion polymerization and introduced modified SiO₂ nanoparticles into the polymer system to promote the finishing effect of fabrics. The structure and particle size distribution of polymer emulsion were characterized by means of FTIR and DLS. The variation trend of water and oil contact angles under different conditions were investigated, and the changes in structural composition, surface elements and morphology of untreated and treated fabrics were characterized. The anti-fouling properties, water resistance, physical and mechanical properties of the cotton fabrics before and after finishing were discussed. The results indicated that when the mass fraction of fluorinated monomer used was 50%, the baking temperature was 150℃, the baking time was 150 s, the water contact angle on the surface of finished fabric was 147.9° and the oil contact angle was 141.2° and the oil repellency can reach level 3. In addition, the finished cotton fabric had certain anti-fouling property and good liquid repellency for a variety of liquids. The fabric can maintain good water and oil repellency even after 20 times of washing. The physical and mechanical properties of the treated fabric changed little before and after finishing, and the wearability was almost unaffected.

Effect of wet coating process on the morphology and flame-retardant properties of anti-flaming trademark fabric

JIANG Jikang, YU Yihao, FU Ye, LEI Pengfei, QI Dongming, CHEN Zhijie

2022, 30(2):  178-183.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202101027

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In order to enhance the flame retardant properties of PA wet coating fabrics, the flame retardant 9,10-dihydro-9-oxa-10-phosphaphenanthrene-10-oxide (DOPO)was selected as a filler to add into the wet coated polyamide slurry. This paper is focused on studying the impact of wet coated polyamide with DOPO as the filler (the storage time, baking temperature, phase transformation time of coating slurry)on the wearability and flame retardant properties of the coated fabric, so as to obtain the optimal wet coating process. The results reveal that after DOPO is added to the polyamide wet coating slurry, the optimal coating slurry viscosity of the trademark fabric is 0.7 Pa·s, the optimal phase transformation time is 15 s, and the optimal baking temperature is 100 ℃. The anti-flaming trademark fabric can achieve better flame-retardant efficiency and hand feeling.

Study on the preparation and properties of composite wallcoverings with asy mmetric wettability

LI Dong, XU Tianwen, SHI Yalun, WANG Chenglong, YE Ting, ZHENG Jinhuan

2022, 30(2):  184-190.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202101002

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In order to improve the peeling strength of underlying fabric and surface fabric of water and oil repellent composite wall coverings and reduce production cost, spraying technology was adopted to apply three-prevention additive to the surface of polyester fleece fabric, so that both sides of the fabric can have asymmetric wettability. The impact of preparation parameters on the water and oil repellency of polyester fabrics and the peeling strength of base fabric were discussed, and the advantages of polyester fleece fabric with asymmetric wettability as composite wall coverings were analyzed. The results indicate that when the mass fraction of three-prevention additive is 8%, the amount of spray is 70 g/m², the baking temperature is 160℃, and the baking time is 60 s, both sides of polyester fleece fabric show significant asymmetric wettability. When reaching the same level of water and oil repellency as the obverse side, the fabric asymmetric wetting method can lower the liquid entrainment rate by 2.1 times compared with the traditional three-prevention additive padding method, and the peeling strength of the fabric is 3.7 times that of the traditional three-prevention additive padding method. Composite wall coverings with asymmetric wettability involved in this study has a low preparation cost, good water and oil repellency on the obverse side and high peeling strength after they are compounded with fabrics. They have a broad application prospect.

Apparel Engineering

Extraction of minimum units of four-consecutive patternbased on adaptive template matching

LONG Ying, LÜ Yexin, GUO Ziyi, HUANG Zhenhua, ZOU Fengyuan

2022, 30(2):  191-196.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202103018

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In order to realize the automatic extraction of minimum units of concatenated and overlapped four-consecutive patterns, this article iterated on the ratio of side length of rectangular template and investigated its impact on global template matching. The vertical vector method was adopted to analyze the center point set of the rectangle obtained from matching. The correspondence between the repetition law of pixels and the minimum unit was revealed. The accuracy of extraction results was measured by similarity mean, and the relationship between repetition times of minimum unit and similarity mean was clarified. By analyzing the applicability of template matching, an adaptive threshold template matching method was put forward. The average similarity can reach 94.29% after improvement. The results show that this method can effectively achieve the extraction of minimum units of concatenated and overlapped four-consecutive patterns.

An algorithm for extracting inner and outer contours of korean dress images

GAO Ting, ZHUANG Meiling, SHI Lili, LIU Jing, WANG Jingxue

2022, 30(2):  197-207.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202103004

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In order to achieve the informatization of the styles of traditionalKorean dresses, this paper extracts the inner and outer contours ofKorean dress images respectively, in view of the characteristics ofKorean dresses, that is, A-shaped contour with high waist and large hemline and similar color collocation in dress. During the recognition of outer contour, the outer contour is extracted using the linear structure morphology algorithm of angle θ and length c, and the effect of two factors was evaluated in an objective way through a binary variance analysis. Combined with the subjective visual effect, the optimal combined parameters for outer contour were obtained: θ=10°, c=9. For the recognition of inner contours of accessories with low contrast, a CLAHE algorithm was designed to enhance image. Secondly, K-means clustering algorithm was adopted to segment the collar image, and then rectangular assignment and local zoom repair algorithm based on interpolation were adopted for filling and repairing. Finally, Canny algorithm was used to extract contours and get the inner contour of collar. The experimental results indicate that the extraction method integrating inner and outer contours can achieve the best effect under subjective vision and objective evaluation of boundary length. It is an effective algorithm for the characteristics ofKorean dress images.

Research on emotional calculation of bra structure basedon emotional measurement

CHEN Yifei, LIU Chi, YANG Meng

2022, 30(2):  208-215.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202102011

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In view of the emotional differences of consumers caused by different styles of bras, starting from the structure design of bra, through questionnaire survey, three structures that are most concerned by consumers are extracted, that is, cups, gores, and shoulder straps, and the most popular ones with consumers are also selected. An orthogonal design of three factors and three levels is adopted. By taking the structure of bra as the research object, and the pleasure, arousal and dominance of consumers as indexes of emotional measurement, an emotional measurement experiment is carried out. The results show that different bra structures bring obvious emotional differences to consumers, 3/4 cup has the highest pleasure, and 1/2 cup has the highest arousal and dominance. High gore has the highest pleasure, while low gore has the highest arousal and dominance. Thin shoulder strap has the highest pleasure, arousal and dominance. Cups and gores have a significant impact on pleasure. Bras with 3/4 cup, high gore and thin shoulder strap bring about the highest pleasure to consumers; Shoulder strap has a highly significant effect on arousal, while cup has a relatively significant effect on arousal. The influence of shoulder strap and cup on dominance is significant. Bras with 1/2 cup, low gore and thin shoulder strap bring about the highest arousal and dominance to consumers.

The establishment and optimization of individualized brassiere patterns

CHENG Tiantian

2022, 30(2):  216-221.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202103048

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In order to solve the problem of inefficiency in manual plate making and pattern grading by garment CAD system, the inability of brassiere pattern formation with the change of female body shape, with the top-bottom two-piece up brassiere as examples, according to mathematical model of the brassiere pattern, a program for data automatic calculation and automatic pattern generation was written on Matlae software development platform. The chest circumference and chest difference were selected as the control variables to drive the program to obtain a new brassiere pattern for the purpose of an individualized customization of the brassiere pattern. The results show that it is feasible to establish a mathematical model of the brassiere pattern according to two variables of chest circumference and chest difference, which can also drive the Matlae program, and generate the bra pattern for corresponding body shape. In addition, automatic plate making, pattern grading and updating of the brassiere pattern can be realized with the change in body shape in 2-3 s, thus enhancing the rapid service capability of individualized customization.

Effect of waist structure on X dress silhouette

WANG Li, SUN Ying, LIU Zheng

2022, 30(2):  222-228.  DOI: 10.19398/j.att.202103033

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To investigate the influence of waist structure on the form of X dress, 30 X-silhouette waist-structured dresses with the same specifications and different fabrics were made. The waistline width and hem width of the dress were measured using [TC]² 3D scanner and 3D modeling software. The analysis was carried out by the waist waistline width after wearing the dress, the ratio of the difference between the waistline width and the waist distance, and the subjective evaluation. The results indicated that the waistline width of 3D pleated waist structure was 1.54 cm narrower than that of upper and lower waist structure. The wide side waist structure had the widest bottom width. The single-sample t-test showed that the sig value of the back seam waist structure with the highest X-silhouette feature score was 0.012, and its mean value in X-silhouette feature evaluation was significantly higher than the overall mean value.